How to frame a curved wall

this Frame I'm working on has heaps of curve walls I've already built quite a few as you can see around me but we've got one more to go and I'm going to jump upstairs and I'm going to take you through the process start to finish on how to build a curved ball like this all right so if we have a look at the plan this is a curved ball we're building here and here we've got a 515 measurement that's the radius of this center point of the circle to the inside of this curved wall so in terms of marking this out on the slab I've gone ahead and these curves have already marked here you actually don't need to Mark those at all all you need to do do is Mark your straight wall going all the way through to the intersection there and this one coming through that way obviously right now where I'm working we are in between slabs so I'm not actually going to be stick building this wall but if you are going to be stick building a curved wall I'm also going to tell you what you can do to build a curved wall as a stick build so the first thing we're going to do is we need to cut in our top and bottom plates obviously we're not going to be using 9045 P for this what I recommend using is form ply since this stuff is only 16 17 mil we need to double it up meaning I'm going to cut two bottom plates two top plates we're going to shoot them together so that way when we shoot through to our studs they've actually got a solid fixing there's plenty of ways to Mark out the bottom plate on your ply I'm going to show you what I use I think this is the easiest way now we found out that the radius of our circle of our curved wall is 515 what I'm going to do is cut just a piece of pine it can be anything just a little bit bigger than that 515 I'm just going to go through and cut something at 600 and with this bit of Timber I'm just going to hook over one end and Mark 5115 on it this with that 515 Mark I'm just going to grab a framer and I'm going to hammer it straight through the center of the Timber so before I do nail this into the form P I want to move this template around and what I'm going to do is nail that into the form ply that's going to be the fix point and I'll be able to spin this making that radius go around to optimize as much of the sheet as possible you'll go through so much of the sheet quite quickly I want to put it in a rough location so I can move it up here have at least 90 mil that way and then spin it down this way and see that's still short there I'll move it up so we have about 90 mil that way I'm going to now listen to you there there's heaps of different ways to do this you can have a nail there and just have a string line set up 5 515 whatever measurement is and hold a pencil on that and move it around you can even hook your tape over that nail lock your tape onto that 515 Mark there so there's nail there hook it over and just spin the tape around marking it if someone does have a we and I think it's quicker and more efficient than this please leave a comment I'd love to know if there are better ways to do anything that I do from this point though I'm going to hold my pencil in the middle of the timber here I'm going to keep it in the middle and I'm just going to start rotating this Timber around and I'm just going to be marking the ccle in the FR so in this instance we have two WS coming at a 90° angle and it's going to be hitting this curve an easy way to know exactly where to cut this curve off at is I can run my speed square on the side of the form PL and I can find the point of the circle where it stops and starts to curve around the other way we'll screw up there and that's where we can cut off the circle that's where it should line up with a 90m wall coming this way and obviously the same thing over here all right so we've got that pencil line through there so obviously we need another line 90 mil away the reason I find this block way to be the best way to do this is cuz I'll show you what you can do next so I've got a little off cut of what one of our studs are going to be obviously I'm going to set this on the bottom plate and I want the bottom plate to be the perfect size of this so what I'm going to do is this block still in place SL it over to the start I'm going to put off cut of the stud next to it now I'm going to Mark directly in the middle of where this radius bit of Timber is of this block and I'm going to keep pressure applied and I'm going to spin them both around [Applause] together now we've got two lines of where we're going to cut to cut out this bottom plate so one little thing to note doing it this way is first we have this line here this line is basically directly underneath the block right now we want to keep that line on we don't want cut that off and now this line is marked on the outside of this block so we want to cut that line off that's not going to make a lot of difference but it's just add in an extra M or two which could make your bottom plate a little bit wider than your stud which is going to be a bit of a pain when it comes to straightening so now I'm just going to jump into it we got the jigsore I'm just going to cut this out and I want to especially take my time with this one cuz this will be the template for the other three plates [Music] now what we can do is lay that on the board Trace around it and use this as a stencil before I do that though let's check it with our wall lines over there just to make sure it's right so as I said before pretend this isn't here you don't need that curve on the ground what we're going to do is move this over and we just want to make this end line up with that line through there and this end line up with that W lines through there all right that's great means we can use this as a template and make three [Applause] more it's a bit hard to pick up we've got 1 2 three marked there obviously for these three the pencil line is showing the outside of the shape so I'm going to go through and cut off the pencil line in all of [Music] these that's all for these cut out now so the next thing what I'm going to do is just line them up on top of each other we'll double them up then I'm just going to use I'm just going to use a few Clouts for now and even do three Clouts per plate just to tempor hold them together I'm going to double up both of the plates now we're just going to leave them there while we mark them out so I'm just going to do a cross at either end I'm going to have a stud at either end of this from there it's going to be 150 centers and I'm just kind of bending my tape and getting it rough it's hard to do a perfect measurement when it is curved and obviously the tape straight so that's why I definitely double them up right now so this way we know that the stud placement is going to be exactly the same on both of these plates so doing a stick build I would lay both plates up on your Edge like this they might fall over obviously you would open them up to the length of your stud and honestly all I do is shoot this end stud in on that side you shoot it there you shoot it to your other plate and then I shoot the end stud in on the other side I wouldn't worry about any of these other marks we got going through the middle we'll just do the end studs and then I'd suggest standing the entire wall and putting the rest of the studs in while the wallet is up that's just my personal preference I find it a lot easier to do it that way cuz otherwise your curve is going to be sitting up like that and you're want to try hold every single stud up unless you're doing it with two people which it could work this way but if you're doing it by yourself each of your stud's going to be on the angle like that and it won't be a clean flush finish when you shoot your nails in so yeah that's what I do for stick building this isn't a stick build though so let's continue on with what we'll do for both concrete slabs all right so we're going to sit this double bottom plate down in place now we'll get that right and as soon as that's good we're just going to shoot it into place using the ram set all right so the next thing is I'm not going to shoot the top plate in yet what I prefer to do is I'm going to shoot the plates in for both of the Ws that b up into the curve the left hand side here that's just a normal wo the whole way through and on that side it's just a bulkhead the main thing I want is a top plate on both of those WS so that's fine that it's a bulkhead we're just going to shoot the top plate up on both sides and that's going to make it a lot easier to get our top light of our curve in the right place if this was a timber frame that I was doing I would obviously cut the top light and bottom plate exactly the same now I probably could do it here cuz there's a steel frame and I can move that if it's out a plum majority of the walls I'm building especially downstairs they're going to be butting up straight into concrete if that concrete's out by 2 or 3 mil I'm obviously not able to move it so what I've been doing is putting the bottom plate in plumbing up that Mark and marking that on the ceiling and then I can reasure the top plate from that top plate up there or the concrete up there through to my mark and that way even if the concrete is out a little bit at least my walks straight and it minimizes one other problem will in this case it's actually a little bit different cuz we do have a small step in the ceiling so that's where our wall finishes and our curve starts from [Music] there [Applause] sweet that's one top play up and now that's going to be the bulkhead but we're just still going to put the top plate up there as well this isn't the typical domestic build I'm building apartments and I'm kind of cityway right now meaning I've got to follow some strict rules one of them being we need to be off site by 5 I probably started filming this video a little bit too late but I've got 20 minutes to be off site so I'm just going to head home now and we'll just keep going on with the video when I get back tomorrow all right we're back at it today I've just gone through and I've just put up the second top plate that one we're just talking about so in theory what we should have is the end of that plate and if this concrete this if this sub Flor above us is all level we'd have other plate Landing right about here what I've done though is I've just done a pencil line there and that's marking the end of this plate below us the end of that wall and that means I can get a top plate now I can but one side into that and B the other side into that pencil line and that's exactly where it has to go so I can hold that with one hand shoot it with the other and I'm not playing around with my levels and layers of lines trying to play around where this has to go I've got two solid points and I know exactly where to put this top l sweet both plates are in now and we're ready to start measuring in our studs if this is a stick frame you'd have all your stud measurements and you're good to go You' also have your N2 studs in too so now we can just go in and fill in the studs working between two slabs they should be level the measurement should be the same but I'm going to go through and individually measure a few points if they're the same that's great I'll go through cut them all if not I'll have to individually measure every single St to make sure that it all fits tight 2661 [Music] 2664 2664 up that works 2664 let's get this first start in this is the top shot if we move this bottom right to the edge there that should be Plum I still want to check it [Music] though it's pretty [Music] good [Music] [Music] [Music] all right so all the studs are in now and the next part of the job is putting in the no I've got a little trick it's not really a trick just an easy way to find the angles for no is going to be all we got to do is just hold bit of Timber up against the studs push it against two studs like that using a roller or anything that's straight we sit that next to the stud hard up and what I can do is transfer that line onto the block so I've got that line there I don't want to cut that and then just go for every single nog and do that same method what that line gives me is if I put my sped SC up to it is we can find out what degree that line is so we can see it's about 7° so I'm going to use that it may not be accurate for every single do but it should be close I'm just going to be able to measure Long Point to Long Point short point to short point doesn't matter what I do but use at 7° for every single one of my dos I'm going to shoot them in and it should work perfectly let's give it a shot just making sure that stud straight which it is short to short we have 96 we are using 70 mil timber here too so I think that short point was 96 mil I'm actually going to make it a bit bigger I'm going to even push it up and make it 100 Mil it's a short Point we've got an extra 20 M since since this is 70 the stud's out of 90 so I'm going to make the NOG 100 m at the short point so it can sit roughly in the middle of the stud that's 7° there it's come across 100 Mil to the short point mark 200 let's go 70° the other way if you're doing this you'd make it efficient and you'd go through with a full list of nogs cut them all at the same time if you the Moda saw even easier even quicker let's just check this one in though and let's make sure it works it it'ss pretty good we can see if I even it we've got about a mil on either side of a gap so the 7° isn't going to be perfect everywhere this is more of a template and I can actually go through and just check with the other spots so that does work perfectly where we did measure the NOG from before it just shows that some of the studs may be slightly twisted and the angle might be a little bit bigger so you can always play around with your angle or even move your stud or twist it slightly it's probably not perfect if all the angles aren't the same

Channel: Dave Does Carpentry

Views: 36,908

Keywords: how to, curved wall, how to build a curved wall, how to frame a curved wall, curved bottle plates, framing curved walls, how to build a round wall, framing a curved wall, how to build a curved wall out of timber

Id: nAxTF32EUI8

Length: 15min 42sec (942 seconds)

Published: Tue Feb 13 2024