How to DIGITIZE 3D Puff Without Any Hassles

what's up happy people welcome back to another episode of embroidery hub my name is willy and now we all know that digitizing can be very intimidating when you first get started so tony what do you think about maybe adding some pull and push compensation maybe to a one ten percent and taking off the placement and attack downstairs either way is not going to be a patch what do you think about that i told you so now a few weeks ago i did an episode where i showed you how to digitize a patch from start to finish on chrome on lux and then i embroidered the patch for you on the ricoma mt1501 if you want to check that video out you can find it in the description below because of all the comments and likes we received from you guys i'm going to be doing another digitizing tutorial for you right now but this time i'll show you how to digitize for a 3d puff embroidery on a cap then i'll embroider the cap for you on the ricoma mt1501 so that you can see the results now before we jump into the digitizing software make sure you hit that like button and subscribe so that you get notified on my next digitizing video where i'll be using the chroma inspire software that comes with every single machine alright guys let's go ahead and get started [Music] now a complex fill is basically a tool that you use to trace your design and it'll automatically fill in once you close that design and it'll fill it in with stitches so let's go ahead and use this tool to start off now so now basically all i'm going to be doing is this edge around here and then i'll get to the rest later so i'll start off with just this area here so i'll put regular click on the edge and then as you can tell is nice straight lines but now i'm using the uh the curve tool so the curve tool is by pressing the control on your keypad while you're pressing the control it basically gives it a nice uh uh smooth edge right when i let go of it it'll it'll make one straight line so i'm not gonna waste too much time with this i'm just gonna go as close as i possibly can and then go back and just give it a quick fix so basically all i'm doing is going around the edge still now once i do this i'm going to right click on my mouse pad and as you can see it covered up this whole area here now i'm going to go over to my uh shape tool which is this one over here on the top left now the shape tool is what i was just telling you guys the shape tool is basically going to be where i can get all those dots that i created and basically edit it so that it can be as perfect as i possibly can all right so let me go ahead and do that now now i'm going to start with the bottom piece here as you can tell i kind of went off the rails on this one so i'm just going to go and grab it and drag it over to where i need it to be so very simple then i'm going to right click and there you go now it's nice and where it should all right now for the rest of it is basically the same thing so a design like this usually takes around 10 to 15 minutes just using your regular uh chroma inspire or your chroma plus when using lux i'm going to show you in just a couple of minutes how you can actually make this uh a five minute design but let me keep on editing just my border as you can see some of them i grab them just one at a time and some of them i grab two at a time or three or four depending on where you want the border to end all right so now that this kind of looks good what i'm going to do is go over to my selecting tool you're basically going to be grabbing that whole area okay so that's exactly what i want to do because what i'm gonna do next is convert this into a nice uh satin stitch so the reason why i'm using a satin stitch here is because that's the only way that you can make a 3d puff really because if you don't have a satin stitch you're going to have a lot of stitches that are going to be pressing down on that foam so you really wanted to have a satin stitch now what a satin stitch is is basically a stitch that goes from one area over to the next so in the middle you can basically put on a foam and depending on how thick your design is you can put maybe two foams depending on how thick your foam is as well you could have a 2.5 like a video i've done in the past uh if you want to check that video out actually you can scroll down to the description below and find it there but what you what i did was i made my letters very thick and then i was able to add uh three layers of foam and each layer was 2.5 millimeters all right so now i'm going to go ahead and press the satin stitch as you can tell this is a nice uh stitch to have for any letters it doesn't have to be a 3d puff to use a sand stitch you can use this on any letters now as you can see once i convert it there's a lot of angle lines what an angle line is is the angle of where the stitches are going to be placed now if you move that angle vertically then the stitches will be up and down if you move it horizontally they're going to be side to side right but you can always play around with the angle lines in this case i feel like i have way too many angle lines like for example this one here it's basically pointless now i have as you can see i have one two three and then i have this angle lines here that they just don't make sense right there's too many of them the software thinks that this is what you're trying to do but you don't want to have too many of those because then as you can see there you're gonna have some open spots and you don't wanna have that so what i do is i right click and then i put delete all angle lines so when you right click make sure that you right click on the actual angle line so once you do that if you press delete all angles you're basically going to be deleting all of them now i don't need the angle line okay so what i'm going to be doing is adding my own angle lines as you can see if i press on the border then i will get my options and one of my options is add angle lines so that's what i want to do i want to add my angle line and now i'm going to put a couple angle lines in some areas i'm not going to put a lot so one here one here and one kind of facing and it's kind of going to look similar of what it the software originally did but there's a lot of things as you can see in these two that i'm doing right now i don't really need uh to have two or three or four angle lines just one should be enough for the whole uh part so and now let's go ahead and keep adding some angle lines here now i before i press anything i do see that there is some extra um split lines and those are the blue ones up there but let me finish up with my angle lines and now i am going to basically right click once i right click you can see that nothing pretty much changed but i will take the split line off right so really quickly a what a split line is is basically the name says at all it'll split whatever part of that design so not to get you too confused on split lines they're really good to use on some places but not other places all right so the good places you want to have a split line is for example when you have a t so you're going to have an angle lines going horizontal here but in the top part of the t you're going to have them going uh vertically right all right so i'm just going to be editing just a little bit here and there some angle lines some other dots here and there just to make it look good and i feel like it's it's good enough okay the green that i touched first is my starting point the red is my ending point remember that when we are doing a cap you need to make sure that your letters start from the inside out so the reason why i'm using this method of bringing the green over to the right and the red which is the ending point over to the left is because the right side will start first and then it'll work its way over to the red so since it's on the right side where it starts that's almost going to be towards the middle of the cap so when you're doing the cap you obviously want to start from the middle and push it all the way out so you don't get any puckering uh or any registration issues okay all right so now that i have done that you're basically gonna do the same thing for uh the rest of them you're gonna get the complex fill and then you're going to do the edge all right same way but what i will be doing instead of that is let me go over here now i'm going to click on the one but i always have to make sure that i am using either a complex fill or some type of tool so what the one does so you guys could get a better idea of it it basically uh does the hard job for you which is what we just did with the t and the h which is go around the that border all right so it knows it what it's doing is is reading just one color so if you have a blend of colors or shade of colors the wand is not really helpful for that but for this is perfect okay so i'm going to be showing you how to do that now i can obviously use it with the complex fill and you're going to get a tatami stitch like you saw me doing but instead of doing that what i'm going to be using is my satin tool and then i'm going to be pressing on the one right clicking on the area that i wanted to auto digitize basically that's what it is and as you can see it did so okay so now this is also not perfect so i'm going to go over to my shape tool and now i'm going to see my angle lines and i'm going to be editing that as well okay so i right click delete all my angle lines then i'm going to go and add one angle line basically that's all i need for this just one angle line all right now i'm also going to change my start and stop point so i'm going to put it on the bottom to start on the bottom and to end on the top that's uh that's what you do when you're digitizing for a cap remember so this tutorial that i'm doing for you guys is going to be mainly for 3d puff and obviously for a cap so if you guys really want to get into digitizing just for a cap you can check our video on the link on the description below and you can see it there we really go into details all right so i bring it on the bottom the green is where it starts and let me angles let me see this angle looks like it's going to work all right so let me go over to my satin stitch here and i'm gonna go back to the wand and now you're gonna see how fast i'm able to do everything now i'm just gonna keep going i'm gonna do this as quick as possible because i'm not gonna be wasting too much time right so now i go to my shape tool and then do the angle lines quickly now so basically all i have to do is just left click delete all angle lines and then i'm going to add an angle line and that's it i'm going to edit my start and i'm going to edit my stop all right easy let me keep going now i'm going to do the same thing to everything else all right so now i'm just gonna select the whole design and i'm going to be going over to my commands and i'm going to be pressing the trim so i want the machine to trim on all of the steps that i've been doing all right i wanted to trim on each and every one of those steps now some designs don't require that but this one senses barely any letters and it's a big design i want to make sure i get those trims out of the way so the reason why i selected the whole design is because i don't want to waste time doing this one at a time so i'll do it towards the end i can literally do the whole design first and then select the whole design and then press the uh command key trim and that's pretty much it everything just from that point on we'll have a trim all right so now i'm going to show you guys here by my slow rewind as you can see this is what it's going to do the first thing it's going to do is an underlay now let me i can't stress this enough if you're doing a 3d puff you want to take the underlay completely out on just the letters themselves and you also want the 3d puff to be the last thing you do because you don't want to have any other stitches on top of the 3d puff because then it's not really 3d pop so to get to the underlay you're going to go over to the top you're going to look for this key right here and then you're going to press on it and now you're going to see those are all the underlays and this is the one that's tucked is the one that i have so obviously all of these i don't need i'm going to take it off and now i have no underlay i'm going to press apply and then now you're going to see what it's actually going to do so as you can see here there's no underlay you can see that right there now there is this line that you see but that's okay that line is just the trajectory of uh of where the needle is you don't want to have trims in there because then it just takes too long those lines are okay there's basically just holding down the phone for you that's all it's really doing okay all right so now i'm going to be selecting my design and going on to the fill option and changing out my density now the density is this one here the higher that you put the density number the and you apply as you can see it's actually making the density uh less but if you bring it down and you press apply it's making it more dense so i'm going to bring it down for 3d puff i'm going to bring it down to a 0.1 so the reason why i'm putting the density down to 0.1 is because since i'm using foam the foam tends to try to come out of the threads and if you have that a lot it's going to be a lot of work towards the end a lot of cleanup that you might not want to do so by putting it at 0.1 and making it very dense the threads are actually going to look a lot neater a lot cleaner all right so i'm going to go over to the type of push and pull and i won't want to do it by percentage now by percentages it's just a lot easier for me i'm gonna go over here and press apply i put it at 110 i don't want it to be too much so a 110 i think is good enough you can always add more if you feel like you need to but that's good enough all right so now i'm going to right click on my design and this is the next thing that i want to show you guys i'm going to go over to my utilities and i'm going to create a nap blocker so what is a nap blocker in that blocker we've actually explained this in previous videos all the videos that we've done for certain things like this they're going to be in the description below so if you want to check those out you're welcome to but just really quickly what a nap locker is is basically acts like a background uh surface that kind of makes everything nice and smooth in the back in this case i think this is actually going to work perfect because the net blocker also goes around your design so maybe by adding a nap blocker and adding some density we can actually get it to be where it needs to be so let's try it out maybe it works and we don't have to do so much afterwards so what i'm going to do is i'm going to go ahead and press that blocker and as you can see here this page comes out now this page here is the distance now it's only the distance between the letters how far you want it to be so don't worry about that all right so i'm just going to change the colors of the background i'm not going to be using the same colors as the design just because i want to switch it up a little bit here and uh there we go i'm going to select it and then now i'm going to change the color of the letters as well i'm going to make them like maybe a light blue let's see how that looks yeah that looks good all right i'll go with that all right so now what i'm going to do is select my nap blocker and as you can tell it's super low which the number's high but super low so i'm bringing it down on the density and that looks a little better maybe maybe a 0.4 quickly about the nap locker since it's going to be the first thing that it's actually going to be embroidering i'm going to start it off on the side you never want to start off uh in the middle of the hat because that's where the thickest part of the hat is which is the seam all right so basically you don't want that because and you don't want to start off in the seam of the hat because you can have needle breaks and a ton of things that it just makes my life easier so i'm gonna start it off on the right side and then i'm gonna end it up on the left side and i'm going to give it a nice angle which i think the angle that it has now is pretty good but the reason why i'm also doing that is because i don't want it to uh push against each other towards the middle so i'm going to show you right now really quickly what i mean as you can see here it's actually going from the right to the left and then it skips over all the way to the left and then it meets in the middle so that's what i don't want now what i'm going to do is move my starting point over to the right and then moving my ending point on the left and now we're going to see the difference and here you go as you can see there all the way through and not meeting anywhere towards the middle or on the sides either because i rather just be one long stitch all the way through all right so now what i'm going to do next is make the border of the background so this is going to be very simple with lux all you have to do is click on the board of the part you want the border on uh right click go into copy i'm going to press copy and then i'm going to press paste so i'm basically pasting the same thing over all right so now i'm going to be using the the the one that's on top which is number two here i'm going to be using this one and then i'm going to go to the effects option and i'm going to put an applique as a border i'm actually using applique as a border but not as an applique itself okay just so because it makes a really nice thick border so let me change the color of that right so i think this is a good color all right so yeah so basically this is a nice uh thick border that's what i want now you're gonna see here i got two i got the placement line and the tack down line i'm not going to be using this because a placement line is basically where you're going to be placing uh this and this is used for something totally different and then the tack down line is also going to be just to hold down whatever garment you're using so i'm not going to be using that so that's for my um for my border my applique border so i'm going to take those out uncheck those and press apply and just so you can see really quickly now i don't have any placement lines or um or any tack down line so let's take that out all right and what i will be doing though to my border is adding some width so i'm going to add a 4.0 and i'm going to press apply now it's a lot thicker and i'm also going to put my density over to a um i would say 0.3 and you can always play around with your density and how thick you really want the border to be and all that i'm just putting it like this because i uh i feel like it might do really good so you can always change it if you want all right so now let's take a look at how this is actually going to be embroidered alright guys so that's it for the digitizing portion of this video let's go ahead and embroider it now alright so these are the materials we're going to be using today i'm going to be using regular cap hoop i'm going to be using this foam which is a 2.5 millimeter foam and just two clips to hold down the cap and obviously the cap itself a very nice and structured cap all right let's go ahead and get started all right guys so today i'm using the ricoma mt1501 machine this is a 15 needle machine if you guys want to learn more about this machine or you want to see where you can get one like this scroll down to the description below so i have already selected the design we already have the cap hooped and in the machine and already traced all we have to do now is press the start button so let's go ahead and do that now all right guys so now i'm going to be putting the foam and i'm going to be putting these two needles in there just to hold it in place but after a couple of stitches i'll probably just take them out all right guys so the machine is finished let's go ahead and take the cap off and now we're going to go ahead and rip the foam out [Applause] and now all i have to do is just clean it up a little bit feels good all right here we have our finished product very nice i love the color waves and how the foam came out that's the most important part and i only used one 2.5 millimeter phone so i have to say even with a 2.5 millimeter foam this came out real nice [Applause] [Music] [Applause] that's it guys i hope that you now feel more confident to start digitizing on your own cap designs and learn some tips along the way the key to good digitizing is watching videos like this online practicing and testing until you get it just right if you have any questions about what i showed you today be sure to write them in the comments below and my team and i will answer them for you or even make another episode of your own question and if you haven't already subscribed be sure to do so by clicking the subscribe button below so that you don't miss my next digitizing episode including the ones on chrome inspire also if you're not already following us on facebook join our group embroidery and custom apparel mastery to share your questions get advice from myself and our team at rakoma and get more content just like this and also follow us on instagram at recomanhq where we post content just like this daily to help you grow alright i'll see you guys next time

Channel: Ricoma Embroidery Machines

Views: 28,083

Keywords: embroidery, embroidery machine, machine embroidery, hand embroidery, how to, embroidery designs, embroidery tutorial, do it yourself, iron on patches, ricoma, embroidery for beginners, how to embroider, melco embroidery machine, embroidery business, sewing, brother pe800, digitizing embroidery tutorial, embroidery software, ricoma embroidery machines, embroidery hub, chroma luxe, Digitizing, Chroma digitizing, 3D puff embroidery

Id: Vj_sWs7HbIo

Length: 24min 56sec (1496 seconds)

Published: Fri Jan 22 2021