3D Foam Embroidery Tutorial - Create Perfect 3D ESA Lettering

[Music] hey everyone John Deere here from John Deere's embroidery legacy and digitizing made easy we are the largest independent developer of ESA fonts in the world we have amassed over 600 ESA fonts that directly load into the will comm platform now these fonts are above and beyond any other font that you've ever tried in the embroidery industry not only do they resize well but you actually are able to control the properties of the fonts based on the fabric type at the click of a button they automatically join closest point the list goes on and on now we have many different styles of fonts available we have applique fonts two color fonts fancy font script fonts we even have esa elements which are objects or designs that have been assigned a keystroke but one of our most popular fonts is actually our 3d foam fonts and if you've tried the 3d foam you know that they have a dramatic raised effect because we are literally putting a piece of foam under the needle of the machine to create that raised effect now I'm going to share a couple of tips and tricks with you on how to take these 3d fonts that I've digitized and actually do a couple of extra things within the software to ensure that you're going to get good results we're going to add a tack down stitch specifically if you are running them on finished baseball hats it's one thing to embroider on a smooth surface but when you add the element of a finish hat into the equation you have to put your foam down you have to tack it down in the center and then you have to move from right to left and you have to make sure that that foam is actually tacked down and in place on to that hat before you start to start stitching otherwise you're going to have the fun bouncing all over the place and potentially falling off so I'm going to give you a few tips and tricks on how to do that and also how to use the esa 3d fonts so that you get even smoother clean edges when embroidering now within my hat software I'm gonna choose the lettering within my tool box and I have the 3d brush script that's already chosen it's not ten millimeters high now it does suggest that I do this at 50ml so I'm going to type in the letters e si it'll come in on screen and then I'm going to grab that I'm going to make sure that I make them at least 15 millimeters so that we can see the appropriate height now if I look at this I can escape from that screen so that it's no longer highlighted around the outside and if I highlight it again and hit the H key it will allow me to go in and Kern all of these letters so that I can position them how I'd like to see them lay out on the baseball hat now at this point I'm going to escape and I'm going to go over to my US just so that I can see the actual height of this design and the height is 2.5 inches high now that's a little bit big for an actual finished hat so I'm gonna make this about 1.8 inches in height and that's going to be a little more realistic it's almost 5 inches wide and now that I have that in place I'm going to make sure that I change my lettering sequence to Center out now if I keep it the way it is right now and I go to my player you're gonna see that it'll start at the e go to the s and then continue on to the a and the problem with that is that when you are digitizing or embroidering on a finish hat you actually have to have it so from the center out because of the curved surface so now when I go to my player and I see how it's going to sequence this it does the S first then goes to the E and then goes over to the a so that would actually be correct now I'm going to bring this up to full screen just by hitting the zero button on my keyboard and what I'm going to do is I'm gonna make some changes to this design I want to change the underlay to this design and if I select this again and go to click the under the underlay tab which is under stitching here is what happens I click it and it actually will not apply any underlay the reason why is because this design this font was digitized in such a way that it actually has very very tight density to allow for cutting the phone and given that I wasn't able to assign any underlay to it but that can always be done after the fact so what I'm gonna do is I'm going to highlight that font and then I'm gonna go to edit and I'm gonna start to break it apart when I broke it apart it actually broke into separate letters then I can take the first letter I can go up to my edit tab at the top and I can break it apart again now when it's broken down into its raw objects and I can grab all of those objects together and you can see that they're highlighted then I can go to my stitching tab and I can assign whatever underlay I want so I'm gonna use an edge run underlay now let me go back into metric because I need to see metric when I'm actually doing this I'm going to highlight that again and I can see that my underlay is set to normal which is good if I go ahead and I zoom into this area you'll see that the underlay pretty close to the edge with normal once I go to medium it actually moves it inside a little bit more I want it closer to the edge because I want this underlay to help cut the actual design and to cut it properly I'm going to change from two point two millimeters to one millimeter now usually under any other embroidery technique I would never want to have underlay set at one millimeter that's just too short between the stitches and you can cause potentially hard stitches and thread breaks but remember when we're doing fun it's not just going a millimeter apart we're putting a piece of foam which is a two millimeter height on it and it has to stitch through the foam go over one millimeter and then stitch through two millimeters of foam again so you're actually spanning more thread so now that I have the first one done now I can go to the e and when I go to the e I'm gonna go back to my edit I'm going to break that one apart and I will continue to grab all of those points and then I can assign my underlay again we're going to do another edge run we're gonna make sure that it's one millimeter apart hit enter and I know that one's done now I just have to go to the a and I'm gonna do the same thing we're gonna break that apart and then I'll grab all of the objects that make up that letter a and again I will assign an edge run underlay set at one millimeter apart so now all of my fonts in my opinion are set up so that they will actually so a little better and a little cleaner than just doing them as they were brought in within the ESA s you know automatically so there's a couple little things you did it now one more thing I'm going to do is I'm going to choose another color and this time I'm gonna go to my digitizing tools and I'm gonna choose my digitize open shape and I'm going to choose a run stitch but I'm gonna choose a really long stitch length like eight millimeters and the reason why I'm doing that is I'm going to actually come right into here and I'm going to put some very long stitches all the way around this s and then hit enter because I know that's the first object that I did then I'm going to come here to the E and I'll put some very long stitches right here and this is going to I just panned over there so let's pan back on a backspace on back on the screen and I'm just going to continue to put points down and hit enter and then I'm gonna go over to the a and I'm going to do the same thing we'll just come right here and again very very long stitches these are just going to hold that temporarily into place and hit enter now if I look at this I turn the TrueView on really it's it's very few stitches and it's stitching on top of the item so I'm going to go to my resequenced I'm gonna go to my first my last color which I want to be my first color and I'm just going to move that up into the first color so that it's underneath of the objects now now when I go to my player I can see that it's going to stitch these long stitches first and then it's going to actually stitch this one into place it's going to stitch the other one into place and that is going to hold down my foam on the actual smooth surface or the surface of the hat and it'll make it smooth because a foam is curved and we want these purple lines these long running stitches to make sure that it follows the actual contour of the finish hat so we're going to sew this out and show you the finished results but this will help you to set up designs that are perfect for finished caps or any curved surface the design is finished running on the machine and this is my favorite part where we actually get to take the finished embroidery and we get to pull off all of the 3d foam and it should pull off nice and clean and all of the pieces you just have to get in there and pull them away so you can see the results are awesome and those two little tips that I gave you for tacking down the foam and adding a little bit of underlay to help perforate the foam before it does the finishing stitches will definitely help increase your results and the quality will just be perfect hope you enjoyed this video and we'll see you next time hi everyone john deere here and thanks for watching this video if you've enjoyed it please be sure to give it a thumbs up and share it with all of your friends also to become part of the legacy be sure to hit the subscribe button and don't forget to hit the bell to be notified every time we release a new weekly video so join the legacy now it's no mystery award-winning embroidery is our history [Music]

Channel: John Deer's Embroidery Legacy

Views: 20,005

Keywords: 3d foam embroidery letters, digitizing 3d foam embroidery, 3d foam or 3d puff embroidery, 3d puff embroidery, how to, machine embroidery, puffy embroidery, 3d embroidery, embroidery tutorial, puffy foam, embroidery machine, embroidery designs, puff embroidery, puff embroidery digitizing, 3d foam, embroidery digitizing, 3d embroidery tutorial, 3d embroidery machine, 3d embroidery designs, embroidery digitizing software, Hatch, Wilcom, John Deer, Embroidery Legacy

Id: BzkAjB_HQb8

Length: 10min 25sec (625 seconds)

Published: Wed Oct 31 2018