How To Cut Layers in Long Hair - The Ombre Layering Technique

hi Sam via here you know I'm not a colorist but I have to tell you how much I enjoy watching all these Redken colorist come up with these great ideas I know one of the techniques that's become popular in the beginning it was known as a trend now it's become a technique that's called ombre and what we mean by Arm Braley's from what cut what I understand colorist it leads from dark to light now let's take that to the design to the cutting world when you think about that you're thinking about okay from dark to light when I see dark color I think of it to be really really heavy to have a lot of density and then it leads to some lightness some airiness imagine this my friends allow me to introduce you to ombre layers that's right you heard it here first ombre layers follow me over to the trip chart and let's show you the concept of flip of triangles in terms of what we mean by that and how it works let's take a look at on a flip chart okay in the past I've talked to you about triangles in terms of when you cut triangles and you take a triangle section you have a lot more width to a narrow section if we cut this and I elevated this up can you see it's getting short too long yet because it's the triangle does this you're having less massive hair long a little bit more airiness if you will ombre layers now if we flip this over what happens is you're getting less massive hair is getting shorter more massive hair is getting wider so the idea on this is this wouldn't fit the ombre technique so the idea would be this imagine this what if we did this you elevate this up so this comes up and you're elevating this up notice what I said you take it section by section as you come up here's what's happening you get each hair is coming up to that elevated position and you can start to see because of this you're going to start to get an angle on this now what happens is when this collapses what's very interesting is you're going to get this kind of feeling to it you're going to have degrees of links that do this let me give it to you in a different color here give it to you in red so you can see this so what happens you having degrees of length that are short okay but as you move down look what's happening it's getting lighter down here and a lot airier down there so here's your ombre layers more density leading to a degree of lightness to that so what's really critical to know is how do you go about and do that well what's interesting is I really believe that two heads are better than one when you tend to think about it when you're talking about this two heads better than one who better than our education director who I know you all love please welcome Andrew Carruthers hi guys how you doing brother all right my friend let's talk about this Andrew because we were kind of in the back room and we were talking about what we wanted to do on this particular journey in terms of our little hot tips and things for each other but mostly for our viewers when we talk about this I really like the way that we kind of related this to color yeah and you had a great idea in terms of what lunch you step over here and I'm gonna grab you exactly what you did for me and how we talked about this what I did was I told Andrew I said Andrew I've got an idea ombre layers and Andrew just kind of looked at me he said what do you mean I started talking about color so he said well let me get a better visual on that so we thought why don't we pretend we're colorist so we're gonna take a foil and a brush I'm gonna hold the hair for Andrew and we're simply taking a horizontal section within that nape area I'm gonna hold this top hair and Andrews gonna talk to you about the concept of this in terms of where the idea comes from remember we were talking about colorist so here's a foil okay so say what takes place first Andrew here's the thing is you forget I am the colorist as well oh that's right I don't Mike oh that's right I knew that you are a colors you know the joke at RIKEN is Sam don't color hair your color boy I'm not actually colorblind it's just for colors just not one of my forte as skillset I stay away from all right talk to me Andrew alright so one of the cool things that someone showed me one time is they did exactly what you're talking about they were working in triangle sections and what they showed me was you take these triangle sections and you lay them into the foil and what you did let's imagine her hair stops here because she's got great long hair what you did is you would actually paint the edges down into the bait down into the ends paint the edges down into the ends and then you would actually come across and paint your ends then and just feather them together but it was this kind of v-shaped action that built a little bit of feathering down into the brightness in the ends so as soon as you said ombre color I was like whoa I got an idea for a layers yes okay let's take a look at it let's talk about that so what what tool would you use Andrew creating this so the tool I think is really important because it's really gonna adjust how much hair actually comes out of the head right Sam yes and what I'm gonna use is the essential series blending shear and there's a really specific point of difference when it comes to these two different shears with the Signature Series you are gonna remove more hair you're gonna take about 40% out per cut part of its the spacing on the actual teeth part of its also that there's a little v-shape at the top of each tooth that holds onto the hair really firmly with the essential shears we don't have the v-shape at the top so a little bit more hairs allowed to slip between the teeth and there's a wider spacing on the teeth so this is gonna give you a very soft removal of weight and as we talked about ombre what's really cool about it is yeah you have that density at the base and then the lightness in the ends what we know too is that there's also a transition point right yes so it's not like we just have light here and dark there mm-hmm so we're taking a triangle section and begin with and our width is at the top of the triangles on ombre layers are pointed down exactly awesome Glee so we thought well let's do the exact same thing we would paint with the paintbrush we're going to paint with our blending shears in it so we're gonna come down these edges and we're just gonna work down into the very ends of the hair we're gonna come on this side then make sure the teeth are faced in the direction that you want to influence the hair we want to influence the hair into the head shape so we're gonna make sure teeth are facing down we're gonna come above and just paint down these edges now what I noticed Andrews seems to me like you're cutting your the you're probably going deeper in here to get it more degree of shortness and maybe not in as deep here would that be correct in saying that yeah because we want to create those little short bits that lead down into the lightness on the ends awesome great so seems to me that this would also give it a little bit more pliability absolutely because you're creating lightness and you're leaving density so we still have a lot of density here especially because the base of our triangles under here so we have a very thick area through this Center now as we come down to these ends what we're gonna do we're gonna comb some of that loose hair out we're gonna come down to the ends and now we're gonna softly just paint through those ends beautiful so now what we've created is an area of lightness as it comes down into the ends we've left the density at the base created some transition points and then lightness through the ends what I love about this my friends it seems that we could use this on someone that has this really silky silky hair Andrew and what they do is they complain that they've got no movement it has it just a really kind of sits close to the head this to me would tend to give it a little bit more pliability a little bit more movement also tends I tend to believe that a set would hold a little bit better was this yeah and especially where you have those areas of lightness and then a very specific area of density that's a lot of times what we need to create movement especially in you know this kind of hair where there's a lot of it but very small fine strands of hair you have to create those spaces and in density space and density if I thinned this whole thing on the bottom there'd be no texture yeah it just look thin and wispy okay great let's take it a step further now when we want to do now let's take another level of section here and we'll spot what we're gonna do is we're gonna isolate our triangles in the middle area now Sam where would we do this you could do this throughout the entire head so I find these ombre layers are a great way to another way to go in to layer hair but remember we've been talking about discipline now we're getting back into discipline so let's go and take another way how would we do right remember the width of the triangles at the top so I'm going to go from the center and then I'm just gonna come out go diagonal forward then I'm gonna stay away from that hairline so I want to maintain some weight at that hairline remember this is the house same concept of detaching so now if we take a look at this you can start to see how we have triangle pointed down and the width on top this time what we're gonna do is we're going to go through and we're going to take a blunt shear we're gonna work with a blunt shear now as we come through I want you to just keep your elevation low this is much more of a visual exercise when working with this we're going to come in and determine where you want to cut this look for that hair bends and that shine line is so I'm going to start here here now look what I'm doing guys what I want you to do is the steeper this is the softer the edge the more you go in at a diagonal stronger the diagonal or the more horizontal the more chunky you're gonna get now I might do that if it's natural curly hair sure I think it would be great if I want to have if I have natural curly hair and I want to take out some weight so we're gonna go because this is really silky and clean we're gonna go more at a steeper diagonal now watch what I'm gonna do oh I'm simply gonna do is talk through that and notice how I talk talk talk and just walk walk walk walk walk walk now look at where I'm at in terms of that so let's comb through that and you can just start to see how we're taking out some hair let's come through once again looking for that shine line where that see that shine line come right through talk talk look at the same angle talk talk talk so it's almost Andrew what I'm doing is I'm sketchy in a triangle into it so look at the density that you have on top as Andrew was saying it's saying earlier and now look at this sense of lightness that I have and now when I tickle this you can just start to see how we're getting a really nice soft layering really cool man go in and do it with really something that has one length hair that just wants to have a sense of movement now remember we see this more kind of you could really apply this into a tech into a haircut itself yes yet I see this more in terms of extracting wait these ombre layers giving it a sense of bagginess and I noticed these girls are getting high ways pants but these pants have a high waist but they're baggy they're wider so I want this this hair to move as this girl walks okay another glance again another triangle we're going to come through remember keeping the sheer nice ins steep in terms of your diagonal talk your way down okay and remember we want these ends nice and light so I'm gonna stop not all the way to the ends now I come through check your where you're at in terms of your shine line and what you're working with so we couldn't come through just looking for my shine line there's my shine line I'm gonna place my shear on the shine line and I'm just gonna walk that through and now look how how aggressive you get is how aggressive you are in terms of closing your thumb and now look at the airing the sense of lightness and airiness now let's just tickle this and root now look at the hall let me see but I'm excited for there check it out watch this watch me tickle at Andrew come to underneath look at that look at that move so I mean it's just beautiful in terms of that work so now let's take a look at the top how could we apply this to the top okay let's divide this in half divide that in half I'll hand that one to you brother alright so what I want to do is I want to take a triangle here notice how you just take the triangle okay some of this hair is one length the idea is we want to have movement sometimes when something is so one length there's no movement to it okay so now I've got my width on the top I come back through and now I've got my triangle so once again I find myself Andrew dropping this out at the hairline I'll get our triangle there is our triangle section alright Angie's going to switch sides with me brother alright hold on to that now watch what I'm gonna do I'm gonna get back into the idea of really starting to swell shapes again so I'm gonna come through I'm gonna bring the shape way over to the opposite side now so this is a technique called swelling I'm gonna bring that over determine where you want your link to fall so before you cut Sam something Andrew look how I hold on to this and I'll see if I cut that war is that gonna fall but now where's the degree of shortness the degree of shortness from the top view take a look at this this hair here is only traveling to that position so you can see the hair closest to the top crown areas getting shorter the hair underneath is getting long longer so let's bring this up and over when we cut these long layers because we want a nice soft edge we're gonna come in and I'm just going to really lay it down with gravity and Jude I'm gonna just really point cut try to keep the shear as vertical as you can and now the sense of tension on my graduation is nice and loose so come through going very very deep and just softly don't drop this section notice how I comb from underneath I come through and I soften soften soften soften really just look at my degree of softness now watch this when I release this and you this is moving from short to long and once again we being able to create a sense of density on one side let's come through this right here and now watch what happens guys this was purely one length hair but now look what happens when we start to move that you can just see it has a little bit more visual texture to them okay let's move to the opposite side now okay same thing Andrew we come over here so here's what I love like I was talking to you earlier about the idea of Andrew and I working together my friends there's no value in the breakroom okay you've got a team that you work with in the break room grab a mannequin didn't do what Andrew and I do we play with mannequins we talk about things we'd sketch things out take a dry erase marker sketch it out on the salon floor on the mirror clients are gonna go what are they doing over there we've got to create a movement in the salons you've got to create a sense of enthusiasm in the salons now back to the technique how do we get our guide sand here okay member discipline and balance take a section of what you cut here on the top area look for that degree of shortness take that degree of shortness bring it up and over it once again to me allowing to collapse in my hand so we allow that to collapse in the hand notice how it's straight and how the shears go vertical into that section so we keep them go nice and vertical I don't know about you Andrew but what happens when I turn these shears diagonal to this section what do you think what do we thinks gonna happen on that well you're gonna create more of a peak and valleys sort of texture not such a soft wispy type okay actually great then Andrews got it nailed it we want to really create this nice and soft texture on top we release this now let's take a look and see what happens so it's a really good way to say if a client says to you I want sense of volume my hair is just too much solid one length how do I go in and get a little bit more sense of movement to that so when we tickle the Hat you just get this sense of movement I don't know about you brother but I got some goosebumps on this one I love it anything you want to add to this brother in terms of what we see on this well I think what's cool is we have three different techniques there that all can be adapted for different hair textures and also different end results and even using those v-shaped patterns versus what you did here was just use your elevation yes to create the diffusion it wasn't you coming in and sliding down the edges of the triangle it was the elevation that created your element of softness and the diffusion that you get similar to ombre color I love what you just said in terms of sliding we went away from sliding getting back into integrity of this business being blunt shape blunt blunt blunt edges for the sake of integrity and taking good care of the hair once again my good buddy and education director Andrew Carruthers we care about you so do me a favor stand by that chair behind that chair with a sense of enthusiasm do and say things a little bit differently and think differently just like Andrew and I are just for you thanks for watching take care [Music]

Channel: Sam Villa Hair Tutorials

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Keywords: layering, ombre, long hair, how-to layer hair, cut layers in long hair, how to cut layers in hair, cutting layers in long hair, ombre layers, sam villa, andrew carruthers, Hairdresser (Occupation), hair stylist, hair shears, dry cutting hair, hair layering, hair layering technique, hair, cutting hair, how to cut hair into layers, modern salon, american salon, behindthechair.com, layering hair, Style, Beauty, Salon, haircut, Hairdresser (Profession)

Id: dloJwaYFudo

Length: 16min 56sec (1016 seconds)

Published: Thu May 22 2014