How to Cut Hip Rafters

[Music] so Roger it's time to get this hip in now now this hip is exactly the same as any other hip wherever it's six meters long or a meter long so what I'm going to show you is a way call we do it called direct measurement so I can also do this by a calculation but generally speaking it never ever works because we're talking about a difference of a few millimeters or a very very small percentage if for example the plates are out of parallel or one also is out of level to the other which is sometimes the case first thing we do with a hip we cut the corner of the wallplate off at 45 degrees because this is a 90-degree corner first of all I mark a line from corner to corner across the plates and then just to make it simple if you put a quart if you put a centerline down your timber and then you're just going to mark the sides boom boom we're gonna transfer that over the speed square okay so we'll just mark that off let's get my square the right way around all we have to do actually have to do it like this you just join those lines up take that off and then what we need to do also is because the fun part on the hip is going to knock down into those blocks you can do a little bit of ads work with the back of your saw enough for a hip all rights like that froze perfect obviously it's a concrete block you don't have to get your angle grinder out but there we have it the next thing we do using the same offcut Imber marker shoulder on the two last rafters so these are the end common rafters same again you're just going to run that in there and you're gonna run a mark there and you're gonna run a mark there that's effectively where the top edge of the hip needs to be it needs to be in line with not up so you don't join the center to there you take the edges with the edges so when you're battening through you come directly on to the side of the hip and you get a fixing all the way up now I always use a 2 inch timber even though sometimes the drawings will say something like 38 millimeter first of all when I go to the timber merchant and ask for 38 millimeter they don't stock it but they'll rip it out of a 2 inch piece and they'll charge you to say money or more because they've had to cut it so forget that if you've got a drawing it's asking you for a sort of 17.5 by 38 forget it use a 175 by 50 it's actually betterment you're going to get a better fixing for your battens and it's a bit stiffer and stronger and then you want to use these thirty-eight mill stuff it's really flappy and planky and when you're using up a hip you want it to stay nice and stiff this is small enough this roof for me to actually measure this on my own if this was a lot bigger and we've got our n Commons way up there it's a two-man job and you're gonna need a tape measure which is nice and stiff someone's going to hold it at the top because you don't want to get too much sag in that tape measure so all I'm gonna do is hook it on the corner here and measure up to the shoulder so we hook it on here measure up to the shoulder 16:57 write that down and that's it for now I've got a nice straight piece of 17550 here so the rafter we're using here is 150 by 50 so the hip needs to be taller because this when you come in with a common rafter the height of the plumb cut is longer because it's naturally steeper a hip is always shallower because it travels to the same rise but it travels a further amount because you're going at 45 degrees so I've got my roofing square here set the roof pitch which in this case was 35 degrees now as I spoke about this before this is basically a protractor and it has a centre which in our case is right here and you know in this particular square says see our run that means common rafter run so if you can imagine this being a tractor and a big and striking a big semicircle around that Center all the way up the square there are degrees of pitch and where you line that up with that point will give you the correct degree of pitch when we come to do a hip we've got something that says H V Run which means hip Valley run that effectively it's the same as a protractor but this distance between these two points allows for that extra run it allows for the fact that you're traveling at 45 degrees so you'll use H be run but you'll still be using the same degree of pitch that you did for the roof so in our case it's 35 so I slide my fence over set that up to 35 on the H free run so the first thing I'm going to do is set out the foot of the rafter and all I need to do that is start by putting my bottom cart on my seat cut this forms the support for the soffit it's the same as what we've got on the roof rafter I'm going to draw that all the way through now I've got a measurement so yesterday I worked out with a drop so from the top of the wall plate to the underside of the soffit in our case that comes into the heads of the frames and we've got two hundred and eighty millimeters so I can use the stepping off method which is run against my line come up the squared two hundred here and then another eighty two hundred eighty now that is the wallplate level there okay so I'm gonna mark a line through there the next thing I need to do is Mark the step back for the back of the bird's mouth so on the actual rafter itself we're using two thirds and a third so two thirds of the thickness of the rafter above the outside of the corner of the wall plate and a third below so what we've got with the rafter here's one from yesterday this is a this is a very small end of a foot so it's this distance here bar you don't measure it at 90 degrees if you measure it at 90 degrees it's actually slightly slightly shorter this would be the height above plate year that's quite a nicer way of looking at it so what I'm going to do quickly is just transfer this line through here so I'm only going parallel with that and then transfer this all the way down there the margin and I'm going to measure that diagonal there it's 126 so that's the line I want to be coming down so I'm just gonna mark a line here faintly a line there faintly I'm gonna come down there 126 that gives me 60 mil so that is the right distance from the corner of the wallplate that gives me the corner of the wallplate and away we go so that is the bird's mouth that I'll be going for the hip so the next step is mark the length so when I cut the corner of the wall playoff that represents the side of the wall plate so where the wall plate is a corner like this and I've taken off half the thickness or sorry the full thickness of the hip here I'm actually measuring to that point there so that side is exactly there I've got my section of timber with my measurement on it 16:57 now that is actually taken from where we measured it on the corner of the plate so I'm going to measure the measurement which is 16 57 from the corner of the plate to the top edge of this rafter so it's only short I can lay my tape out I can use the weight of the tape to hold it lock it off 16:57 there we have it 16:57 and we'll mark the top now that's where I'm going to be putting my cup so it's a plumb cup there's the picture of our hip that's the plate as hat sits on the plate that's level that's plumb so it's a plumb cut so I sit that on there this is the rafter run it up and then I'll mark that over there then I'm gonna transfer that to the other side as well so we are going to square that across I'm gonna mark the back side too because I cut this from both sides see if one of the only rafters I will cut from both sides it's exactly that I'll break this off first this yep this is the duel bolt so I've only got a 5 amp hour or a two and a half amp hour so it's 5 amp hour at 18 and it's two and a half obviously at 36 and this is a brushless saw it's really light it's four point three kilos do you know what I've been breaking out this is quite wet this timber it was stacked outside a lot of rain last week he's drying out pretty rapid but and also it's very copy as well see the cup in it it's really copy so what you find when you're running proved a circular saw if you follow the carp as you coming out the other side it sometimes binds so you might hear it sounding a little bit but actually after you use the circular saw over and over again and you can see a cup sometimes you actually in just knowing intuitively to glide across the top of that if you know what I mean because you can feel it so I think it's just practice it really so we'll break this out we're just gonna break this bit of stock off the end here let's give yourself another block underneath you'll see it probably bind up here because there's a say it's really really quite wet list gear so he's gonna take a lump off of here [Applause] okay put that out of the way also that plays havoc that Cup plays have it when you put in the 45 on as well but I've particularly chosen this piece of wood because it has got a cop in it because nothing's ever perfect when I get on side I've just got deal with the timber I get I can't just go so eyes there's no good for me just go go over it just got deal with it so it's a beautiful car it's really obviously thought very new blade thin blade you want a fat one in there [Applause] [Music] so then we just finish that off with a handsaw that's the bricklayers one that when it's got no it's got no teeth it's like a snake so you're not that out just run that out perfect now we're gonna cut the end so bear in mind I have got this bit of couple on this timber I'm gonna put my first cut through the the Bowie side because it will bind less and then when I cut through the cupping side it'll be easier for the saw to deal with it what I'll do is I'll cut through I'll set the deck so I just only take out what I need to take out it's got really quite a positive stop at 45 this saw first thing I did when I picked it out was obviously use my speed square to check everything was true and it was fine so then obviously we'll just adjust the depth we'll bring that in to about just over halfway sit that in there here we go that's nice cool so we're going to cut that and the other thing actually about cutting it less than the full width you can actually lay the timber flat can't you because you're not going to cut 4 into anything underneath so it's nicely supported and you can just slide through there nicely so we'll do that now [Applause] so you heard that then when I was going through there because I was riding the cup I was going over the top of the hill and it just started getting a bit unhappy but it's alright I mean this is soaking wet this weighs twice as much as it should this bit of wood as well so now we repeat the process on the other side one thing this particular saw has got is amazing access to see the blade so when I'm standing here and I'm cutting this car I'm looking directly down I'm not doing this I'm not doing that I'm looking straight down my body's nice and straight so look at the space around the blade it's amazing and some years ago I met with before hi Koki was it was called Hitachi obviously and I met with some of the engineers who designed the tools and they were revamping the c9u which is the 9-inch corded circular saw which has been a workhorse for me for many many many years and we discussed about how I use the saw and the fact I never really used the guides at the front there okay for just roughing out and doing some rough work but actually I like to see the blade and they took that into consideration and when they then bought out what they called the c9u 2 they'd made some changes to the saw based around our discussions which I thought was particularly valuable and then they went on to develop the next one which was the scene on you free and they made a few more modifications as well including a longer a longer cable but that's all by over by now because I really want to get away from cables I love the fact I can just pick this up wander off cut both ends of those Timbers wherever it's five meters long and it's 149 and my biceps just aren't like they used to be I used to be able to pick my six kilo c9u up and just bash it out but mate my chest everything so here we go get this one done so there we have the cut what it looks like and this is the end of the hip I'll just offer that up to you so you can see it here we go imagine it up going up in the roof and it fits against your last two rafters here alright well let's give this a go see if we need any little fashioning in pretty pleased with that site you always loved sign it through I how lovely sir happy days this is the dodgy sides because there's a break in the plate you can see that there can't be one of these this is a stabile ax this is the baby of all levels a Type R I'm sure that's what the can't we kept saying type on here you go look at that put it back on then the next now of the nail at the top acts like a wage or how can I put like a pin so I always go at 90 degrees and I go into the in this case that common rafter through there and then I tap that with a hammer to cramp it all up pull all the shoulders together especially here where I had a bit of a cup in the timber just give it a little tap that you're super solid you can see the shoulder even though is a bit Bowie and copy you can see it's pretty straight that fix it up just got to run the jacks in now if I'm doing a roof on the ground I cut all my jack rafters by means of diminish and I can work out the diminish for any degree of pitch and basically how it works is now these are just numbers they may not mean nothing but for a roof at 45 degrees for every meter I travel level so the run for every meter I come in this way there's a diagonal dimension and for 45 degrees from memory it's 1.4142 so if I'm working out a diminish I'll divide that by 10 which is 1.4142 so it would be 0.14 1 and I multiply that by the number of centers in this case 400 centers so I multiply that by 4 so it gives me a measurement and around about 500 mil 560 ml there abouts now that is believe it or not from that common rafter date for come down that 560 that's the first cut come down 560 that's the second cut and those jacks will be exactly at 400 centers and if you're at 600 centers you divide the length per meter of run so 1.4142 divided by 6 divided by 10 times 6 so and that gives you the exact same and if you were me you were just and the reason why I check them by tape is because I'm so annual that I love them to all meet perfectly whereas if you've got something let's say this plate here undulate slightly then it will affect the link you know and it's just and also it's just nice to check them off if the buildings slightly out a square you can deal with that you can deal with it within the measure so but what I will do is I'll cut these and I'll make them the same I won't measure both sides I'll just measure one so we're measuring to the plate eight seven three we'll call that write them on the plate as well alright finally if you write something down in life you don't forget it I'm not suggesting you remember all these measurements but green I know but the the biggest mistakes I personally made birth dates 873 I might cut it 837 purely it's like lack of concentration or dyslexia bit of that as well yeah the other thing I would do yeah the mistake on no I'd make yeah is when you're cutting this one yeah no it's always it's always the long side so when you saw me hanging my tape over there measuring to four hundred so it's that side and it's the best the point yeah so when I'm down on the bench I've got to make sure the bird's mouth is the right way around to mark that side yeah and there's a side I favor for the sore as well so I always cut that side first and use the reverse cut for the other side so these are going to be the jacks we measured from the corner of the plate so we do exactly the same there I mean just mark that one and the next one as well 3:9 Oh reset the saw on the common rafter a run 35 because this is the same as the rafters same plumcot same seat cut and we mark a plumb cut simple as that and there we have it and then we gonna break them out I'll break this one out first now we're gonna see how we get on with this saw all the way through at 45 so incidentally when you're cutting a jack providing that your roof pitch is equal on both sides of the corner and providing that the roof pitch is under 45 degrees you always set your circular saw to 45 and that will always give you the right angle because if you think about it if you're looking down on the roof it's just a square corner the hip passes through exactly in the middle of 45 degrees and regardless of those rafters being up or down in any direction that anger is still 45 degrees to the plumb cart so if I old the square the anger is still 45 degrees to the plumb cart so whether it's that pitch that so you don't have to get any hand sewing done it's all done on a circular saw didn't quite make it through this pretty close though so there we have it that's the rafter here a little piece there and so you that's your hip that passes through and 45 now but that's a one side let's break the next one out ah tell you what I reckon we've got a bit more on the debt for that let's give that a go I reckon we're there okay I've done it before and it was fine so let's give that a go [Music] perfect look at that nice Jack car water or compound cut we've got a cut a pair of jacks for the other side it's clearly straightforward because we've got our cuts already and we just take the other rafters and we offer it on when you actually cut your compound and you flip it round on the other end of the timber is is the opposite side so it's the side that will fit on the other side of the hip so that's why I'll cut all one side out of full lengths and then I'll reverse the shortest with the longest exactly yeah so you get the top flush point of the cut flush and Mark that same here with this one same there you see how accurate it is that's because we've used a rafter template to do all the initial rafters every single one is exactly the same that's a new technique just develop now something I'm going to work up and use a bit more as well so again let's flick this back from 90 degrees where we need to be dips good and we'll blast those out free hair now those birds beats first [Music] some people say why don't use a jigsaw but if anyone who know who uses a jigsaw unless you've got them flg saw two blades go all over the place and it's just wrong so I just break these Eve out now let's see if I could do them on here when I say let's see if I care and obviously when I'm doing a big roof I set myself up slightly differently so I'll have like three a three way support so because you let the ends drop but this should be fine let's give it a go I used to use for the two friend think all rafters before were two years ago and now because of insulation everything's 6 / 2 or 7 but to able to even number two sometimes and actually this is about the right size I like to always use 6 / 2 where possible so it gives you a really good clear span between the wall plate and a pearl in around about 3.1 meters so it's very rare you have a raft of bigger than 6 meters so you only need one mid span support and okay it deals with the insulation let's just hope they don't up those rigs anymore and we have to use 8 / 2 for this sake of it but it's a nice size it's a lovely size to work with get a decent birds mouth just have to make sure the brick Eno's to set the play out to accommodate a big birds mouth let's go fit those in so when you're fixing the jacks the smaller they get well they have a tendency to do is that you fit them in you got to make sure that you keep the bottom level so the eave level so you can see there's my mark there's our compound cut there's our bird's mouth but what we want to do is make sure it's fixed nice and true parallel get it fixed over the plate fix it here but don't fully fix it get a straight edge over those eaves from the hip to the last time rafter make sure that that is dead square and true sometimes they take a bit of supporting and to get a facial and selfie on now I'm just gonna take my long level see you can do this a one-man job just gonna sit it on there across the bottom of the Fate make sure when I fix it I'm not gonna look watch what happens if I pick it up too much she's gonna start going up and down yeah I'm just gonna get it fixed perfectly there and when you're fixing these I've got 90 mil now what you don't want to do is come right through so you want to sort of get the sweet spot on these that you've got half the now in rafter and half and there in the hip and you want to be somewhere near 90 degrees to that and I would say that you should always aim for in a 6 / 2 3 now's and I don't like to see them down the back either sometimes if the hip sags it's best to straighten that hip sag out first by popping the leg under it before you put your rafters in so you look up the hip you'll prop that sag out of it because sometimes the timber will just bend under its own weight if it's 6 metres long and then you do the centre in this way we don't want to do he's not prop that hip and then try and send it out because it might look straight but when you put the other one in you've got a big SAG in it so so we're putting the prop under it then centering it with your jacks and then leave that prop there till you get your pilings in now be perfect then let's put this one in so you see that these meet at 90 degrees so we measured one side but we've cut for both I'm just going to take my two from parallel that up not got a mark on the plate yet here we go put a quick pencil mark on that I'm happy with that then he says hey know what perfect their same old trick with a level across the feet and the tip and give that pull up there we go I'm happy there there we go and then we can just fix the rest of them I'll talk to you about that hammer in a minute as well because you know what it is don't you yeah it's a California framer when I first got it there's a bit like a comedy a hammer it was well I'm only small and iPhone spoke the length of my arm but it's amazing once you get used to it okay Parker yeah they meet on the on the hip obviously if you've got two different pictures that never works and I have a job years ago and someone said to me I should meet and I went now because you've got 35 there you've got 45 there oh I sit down 400 centres my late little mark on there that's you Jax and what I also do if you look at the distance between this jack and the hip it's quite a big space there so when I'm running my face before I put all my cuts on for my fascia board and when I'm running my face you're through I actually put another jack in but I put it in when I'm putting the fascia room okay so I think sitting pretty fascia and then into the hip you can do it before if you supported a bit before / - so you got to take it off again yeah so there we go I'm gonna move on to the next bit of the roof now I need to set my apprentices when you finish this you'll be an ice-cream man they'd be like what are you going on about - Easter call on the ice-cream man until I would call a forward

Channel: Skill Builder

Views: 1,520,166

Keywords: How to Cut Hip Rafters, hip rafters, hip rafter cuts, hip rafter framing, hip rafter angle formula, hip rafter drop, roof framing hips and valleys, hip rafters calculation, hip rafter length, carpentry roof framing, roof timbers, robin clevett, roof framing calculations, common rafter, birdsmouth cut with speed square, roof framing, uk site carpentry, speed square, roof framing 101, roof framing plan, roof framing construction, roof framing addition, birdsmouth cut rafter

Id: CmKZoPmROn8

Length: 33min 55sec (2035 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 10 2020