How to Cut a Bob on Fine Thin Hair Textures - In Depth Tutorial!

[Music] hi my friend Sam via here at the style studio in Miami Florida so excited to be with the Styles app that's right the Styles app st yl e-z now here's what I want you to do take your phone out go to your apps and download the Styles app here's why I'm so happy to be here at the style studio because I'm loving their content they our culture's are very similar there's so much about education so much behind the hairdresser not only that but they compliment growing your business behind the chair by actually connecting with a consumer also make sure you check that app out I'm excited because I have the beautiful Olga with me here today and what I want to do is talk about salon scenarios that come in I just want to give you a profile view of her hair in terms of what you see now this is true in terms of what you see look at the finest of our hair the density into that area so what I'm going to do is put some strength back in this hair let's go up and look at the top and if you take a look at the top you can just start to see how we really need to put some strength back into this my inspiration on these pops that I'm starting to see is Julianne Hough take a look at that silhouette in that Bob it's absolutely beautiful so that's an inspiration in terms of the silhouette but I think it sometimes you have to really personalize to the fabric and the canvas the client that you have sitting in your chair so we're gonna use that as instance of inspiration and let's get started in the back area why am i cutting it dry I'm kind of dry because I want a soft edge in my bob now and I really want to be able to see that so dry cutting is a visual exercise in the front area we want to detach that at the moment just set it aside for a moment so watch what I'm going to do see where it's weak in this area there's strength here so let's start in the front area just by eliminating hair that we really don't want to cut yet and that's this week area that she has in the front so we don't want to go after that we're just gonna isolate that and just keep that out for now and just keep it right there so to keep it isolated all I'm gonna do is grab a small elastic and I'm just gonna put the elastic just on this and just so it's kind of just gathers that hair so you can see I didn't even twist the elastic or anything just gather the hair by placing the small elastic there that guarantees I'm gonna isolate that area and not pick it up until I'm done then you'll see how start to detail that into the existing lines let's come over to the opposite side and you can once again see the transparency there so let's just isolate that once again and get that out of the way and once again just taking the elastic it's not about i sliding this tight just so it stays separate from where I'm gonna be working I'm going to be starting in the back area and what I want to do is I want to come through and just start to keep everything just more to the round of the head I want it to sit to the route of the hip that I'm just gonna drop my length off a little bit not going to go too extreme on my a line cutting to Joy once again so that I can see that visual edge and what I'm gonna do to that vigil is is I'm going to actually scan that and we'll talk about that when we get to it now this left back area what we want to do instead of cutting is such a wide area and turning my finger position what I want to do is just find where the natural transition happens if we place a box on top of her Olga's head you'll see there's a left corner there that corner is where I'm going to intentionally blouse the hair up and see and allow it to split on its own and when you do that that's telling you where her head wants to change directions that's where I'm gonna position my fingers to actually ensure that I get to the round of the head so we're gonna isolate this section let's see all of these isolates so there's going to be four panels that I'm actually gonna place in the back area what's so important in order bus blouse this properly take the white teeth of the comb comb with growth pattern with growth pattern growth pattern and then when you hit that prattle Ridge gravity takes over so now let's take a look and let's see where the box is just gonna eyeball I take the comb place that on the transitional Ridge sometimes referred to as a bridal Ridge and then the back and see where they meet those two lines let's blouse right here look at that you can just see where it wants to separate on its own soon as I lift it okay so now we're gonna isolate this area and now if we isolate this area you're going to see four areas now let's talk about the why behind this if I take such a wide area from center back all the way to behind the ear I'm playing a guessing game and turning my finger if I put the comb to this and I have Olga look up at the ceiling and I placed the comb here isn't this interesting the comb comes off this point and this point so this is a more of a flat area so the way the Comus positions is exactly how I'm gonna position my hand most people would kind of bob was square it off this way if I do that and hold my hand square I'm actually over directing the outside left side of the panel and that's giving me more length underneath look at that you can just start to see where the comb comes off that's how you position your hand when we get to this side area you can see how I'm gonna place my hand here so now take a look at this if I place it here and here you can see that's where that corner is because the head is round these two points that meet and intersect will actually round themselves off so let's get started we're going to start in that right center back I'm making sure that I've got this even I will accept that and this is where we're gonna start when we cut this I'm gonna take her head down that's gonna give me a little bit more room to play with I'm kind of dry once again because I'm going to actually scan this and you'll see what I mean I want the edge of my Bob's to be have a little bit more softness to it that said I'm gonna work with a sage 6 inch Signature Series swivel by having a swivel shear rather than putting my wrist in this position because I'm going to scan I'm going to simply swivel and now look how straight my arm is so remember every tool has its reason and its purpose just like a butcher understands the process of how a steak knife works butter knife each tool has its own reason now watch let's read there it's gonna tell me where to cut this Bob look as soon as I start to blouse it I see I should start my bob edge right there so I visualize that we come in with a comb look at the comb so I come through I'm take that section and I position it to the comb hey eliminate the comb sometimes when I'm cutting like this the comb gets in my way so what I want you to do is hit the pocket of your thumb and index finger and roll it and this way you can see it's not in your way now I'm not going to cut this down to the skin and the reason I'm not going to cut this down to the skin is because I want this bob to have a soft pliable edge to it and by just going in and just doing that you can see I'm gonna get a nice edge to it it's gonna have the balance that I'm looking for but this edge as it grows out it's going to be much softer and pliable for her to maneuver let's take our next section consistency is very important in your sections so Sammy are you gonna wear this out well if you take a look at Julien house haircut it's got a little bit of graduation in it so yes I am gonna wear this out and Olga has asked for a little bit more volume on the top now what we have to be careful of is we have to be careful of how we lay our fine hair and we'll talk and we get to that on the top back to the perimeter edge I clean with my fine teeth to the comb I set up my tension with the white teeth and now I am ready to cut and as I said it does not bother me to have this in my hand because I'm looking for that soft edge we're just going to continue to work this section down coming through and scanning notice and I'm trying to keep the points as easy night as I can but I'm not deep point cutting this because this is fine hair and it needs that weight to it let's come through next section we're going to continue to work up the rectangle section [Music] my last section on top I want you to notice how I've deliberately taken my time to scan each section I'm also aware of what my tension is so I'm not applying too much tension so allow the fine teeth of the comb to clean the section come back in use the white teeth to set up the tension look at the comb placed that's how I'm gonna place my hand and now I'm just gonna slide the comb look at the comb bleeding my hand to it about an eighth of inch away from where that guide is now I'm coming through with a swivel now watch me place the guiding blade of the swivel on my ring blade and now all I do is just slide across move across I scan across that ring finger and you probably think of Sam this takes so much time my friends it's not about me it's about this it's about the fabric and it's about the client what's best for the fabric and what's best for the client okay now we're going to move to the left of center okay we're going to take a horizontal section and so then I get a nice guide for this I'm just going to come back to this slice that out and now isolate and now it kind of gives me an idea where I'm at and where I need to go remember use the comb where it's at how it fought collapses so in other words what I'm trying to share with you here I'm not coming down turning my hand and cutting across the straight line box when we have a natural common tendency to do that you are over directing this area slightly back by doing that that's just going to give you a little corner and added link that you're gonna want to come back and cut off stay with the shape of their head fine teeth to clean why teeth to set up my tension and watch my finger come in look how soft I am with that okay make sure you have your ring finger in there and that's going to be my resting point for my guiding blade I believe what's so important is you take a step back and look at the big picture when we stay too close in you're looking at small picture so let's just take a step back look at the big picture you can start to see how I'm dropping down here so if I'm close here I'm not really going to see that so I need to change just my finger angle just slightly okay so now I'm down with eye level with that so let's stay here you can just start to see where I just extended just my guide slightly my friends I'm not gonna stand in front of you say I'm perfect I will make mistakes but it's only a mistake if I don't learn from it if I learn from it then it's no longer a mistake now I'm liking that much better I'm just gonna go ahead and take this one edge that I see here now I'm ready to continue once I've got that guide let's go back drop out what we've cut and let's come through and take our next horizontal slice I'm going to continue to work up to section horizontally [Music] [Music] [Music] last section within this rectangle one of the most important things to remember is get this hair and natural form where's it want to go if some of it wants to overlap to the other side and that's where it wants to go used a wide teeth of the comb come back in nice even tension [Music] now we're continuing to the side area this is where I'm just going to start to change my angle just slightly and it's gonna change naturally as it wraps around the head you could just start to see how that angles just naturally drops down the problem here though is this is the area I want to cut if I took my first slice slice is such a small slice of that area so what we encourage you to do is go up above the ear and bring this in so you can marry your entire line okay now let's turn our head so here watch all just place the cone okay so I'm just gonna continue that line there all the way through [Music] last section on the left side look at how we're putting the integrity back into this I mean before I do anything in terms of cleaning up or anything I want to go through and complete my other side I'm going to show you show you a cool way how to cross check this before we do that let's come to the opposite side area here just take a slice remember I'm filling in that whole area where are they just starting down at the nape area let's fill that line that hair in so we can continue that line through and see the line now before I do that what I want to do is just tip a guide from one side to the opposite side and see where I'm at here so I'm going to come to the opposite side okay this is the hair that we are eliminating right now I'm gonna come through and I'm just gonna take the hair I have here okay just a piece right in front of it here this is gonna just come through and it's just gonna give me a kind of a dot 2 dot concept of what to cut so I'm looking here and what I want to do is take the hair from the opposite side at the same point at the same point and I'm just going to marry it in front and center it keep it down low and cut now let's take a look this point will now represent that point to this point now her shoulder sometimes can get in the way so I want you to hold the shoulder and turn her head anyone hold that position now look at that point in that point and now it's just a matter of connecting those two dots look I use my comb just to see where I'm going a member I'm not changing this line in terms of diagonal deep I'm just softly changing my finger angle [Music] notice how I'm taking my time cutting this with intent and purpose and we're going to come back and start to layer it out when they get a little bit more comfortable just give it a little bit turn back because I've cleared the length so I feel fine sometimes where I see I start to drop off in my line place your finger there so you know where to go you'll know what area needs to be taken care of [Music] now let's go back through and let's just start to cross-check now what do I mean by cross-checking a one length haircut sometimes when you cut a bob when you see the hair move and she shakes her head that underneath it has little pieces of hair and sometimes it's it's cut perfectly but it's just the underneath it doesn't swing it doesn't move so here's what I'm going to share with you a good way to take care of that underneath hair and don't panic now so you see all that underneath is what I want to take care of so watch what I do I'm going to take my comb and I'm gonna comb it on a diagonal I comb it on a diagonal now this is the one time I'm going to come in at the skin and you see where I see that line see that line I'm gonna eliminate everything off of that line just really below that line now what that's gonna do is I've actually combed this diagonally and over directed and you might think how he's cutting up into his line now watch when I lift her head up what's happening is watch because I comb this over here I didn't touch the top but what I did get was that bottom underneath there see how you don't see that in that area now remember we're gonna be layering this out let's tilt it this way and watch again comb especially when you get to this front area you ever see these Bob's and they've got that length there so I'm gonna come through Sam what you said you were holding your finger because you want to keep it soft but now you're down on the skin this is a great way to cross-check that underneath that's why I'm down on the skin so let's go right here look so you can start to just see it once you just start to take it both ways you'll know what needs to be taken off I'm gonna warn you you cannot be afraid to cut it you're afraid to cut it then it's still going to be there okay now let's just start to take a look at this side mm-hmm I'm gonna just ask her to shake her head shoulder to shoulder okay and you can just start to see this side now has a much more of a solid underneath to it let's take a look at this side you can see I need to come in just underneath here and get some of that all right so let's go back just a great hot tip in terms of cross-checking these one length haircut watch see that all of that underneath Sam I don't understand how that works well watch I'm combing this out of its natural fall so therefore the underneath is shorter it's barely moving so this line is my guide and what I see here is what needs to come on once again a great way to get all the underneath hair off with a client that doesn't want to undercut it watch how that length will come right back over that move it a number of different ways walking to the front now see if there's anything that wants to come into that front all right so we've completed our one leg shape now what we want to do is shake your head keep that up right now what we want to do is we want to start thinking about how we're going to start to attach this back area now I want to start to get that shape to do this okay but with fine here I have to be very careful how I choose to go in and layer this if you ever want it Bob to have some bevel and roundness I know a lot of times we pick our Flatiron and our comb and get it nice and smooth and we just start to bevel look what Sam has this hand I've got my the sleeker the Flatiron and a thermal round brush now what I want to do is all I want to do is just put the eye on the brush and watch me just flow the iron I'm barely gonna close it and what if I had you put your finger here like right now I feel heat and I haven't even closed the iron heat starts to alter the bonds in the hair so watch watch the irons just barely close on that line so what I'm doing is just creating bevel that's all I do it's just creating the hole very softly and then I'm using the brush and the iron because I know that this iron it gets hot on the outside so that's all I want to do is now take a look at that now it has just a slight amount of bevel to it based upon where I've been so just number one again another way to work it differently and this is a great easy technique that the client can do you can see already the difference from one side to the other [Music] so now you can see how we've gone through we've refined our shape we went in through working with a flat iron and a round brush move your head shoulder to shoulder then you could just start to see by cross-checking that underneath you just get a really nice clean line you're not seeing any of that hair that's underneath there now it's time for us to go in and graduate this and layer it and what I want to cut this first is because I wanted to build a guideline that's going to begin from the neighborhood watch what we mean let's eliminate our side area which in this particular case we're going to go slightly behind the ear and that will enable us to fill this hole yeah we're gonna section this off on both sides so I'm way past that top of the year once again just filling in right behind that ear now we're going to go in and we're going to cut that back area so we're gonna find the natural transition of our nape where the comb comes off just at the top of the ear so now what we want to do is this is the hair we're going to cut this hair I want to maintain this weight on fine hair what I don't want to do is start coming in and layering at that nape area now watch what I'm gonna do I come through divide this in half I'm going to start on her right side why because I'm right-handed so take a look at what I've done in my name area okay now I'm going to start my shape and I'm gonna work this all the way up to the crown area working with the shape of the head so we're gonna work with the shape of the head but we're gonna use that as our guide so what we're going to do is it's going to give us some layering what I don't want to do is go back down in here and just start to start to graduate to much we're going to start to lose the length and lose the heaviness that we built so we're using this point here that's my god that's gonna ensure from here we're gonna start to round and layer and you can see how that's gonna start to round the bottom so here's my nape area there's my god alright now we're gonna go over the shape of the head and what we want to do now is all I want to do is once again just keep this nice and soft so in order to keep this nice and soft so I'm gonna switch tools I'm going to switch to our streamline and I'm gonna switch to the streamline six to five okay so what I want to do is the streamline is a smaller handle so because I'm gonna go on layer it's just going to give me a little bit softer on my hands in terms of being able to control the shear instead of a bigger handle so streamline is for those of you that or a smaller handle streamline is your shears choice vertical section we know the nape area is going to be my guide so let's take a look I'm gonna elevate and just cut to the shape of the head see where that's at okay so what I want to do is it elevates shape of the hand there went that guide and now just start to point cut now what I want to do is keep this soft and then you'll see blonde hair is tough to layer my friends and it's tough to layer because of the idea of you can see every layered effect to it so what I want you to do is courage you don't cut a blunt line and then try to come back in and soften it watch what Sam's doing I'm notching it and then I come back and now I just start to soften that line that I just created by Fanning and not going so deep which is why change to a streamline not as long as a blade and now I'm going to start to get the softness or the roundness I'm looking for in that shape another pie shape section that is over directed to the center so let's take a back view of this notice I'm combing everything towards me so my hand sits in the center so how do I ensure Sam that I don't over comb this towards me because the way you're standing this is the spine of the comb when the spine of the comb hits that line that center line that's when I comb out that will always ensure me that my hand is in the proper place if there's any tool that's going to get in trouble it is the comb - the shape of the head it's gonna give her a nice casual sense of volume to it I'll give you start to give you a profile and you can just start to see how they start to change the silhouette all righty pie shape section over directed to the center using the spine of the comb to determine Center and combing straight up working with the shape of the head whatever reaches is what I'm going to take all right you can see how we completed this side and look when I just tickle you can just start to see how you get a little bit of movement to that but now you also start to see just the the silhouette how that silhouette is just starting to change and you're getting a little bit more roundness out of that that's what I like to just using that Napier as a guide especially when you're coming through and you're walking with fine hair it's so important with blonde hair a lot of times we can see the layered edge I'm looking at as I apply with it I might switch to a tool just to refreshing something right freshen some of that when we get to our refining and detail let's go the opposite side let's drop and now you can just start to see let's tickle the heavy side and tickle the movement side big difference between the two we're gonna continue to work with pie-shaped partings then we're gonna go with a pie shape parting I already have a guide so just lift and you will see it let's fold them up for it you can see there it is there we go right there so now in that center [Music] now we've completed this back area and you can just see when we just start to tickle and just use your hands to move it you can just start to see how we're getting a little movement out of this and remember how we started very very fine here it can just start to see the silhouette that we're starting to build there now we're gonna go into the top area and I want to go into the side areas just slightly so how are we gonna handle this all right so let's release and I want to go in and get a little bit more of a visual blend in that particular area so we're gonna get a little blend in this area but I want to leave this I actually like this a long bit here but suggest the idea of getting that to get a blend or hold on that and let's go into this top area in this top area it's not so much about going in and doing some ggressive layering to it she's really been through some chemicals and what's happening is because just start to see it's been compromised just slightly so what I want to do is just go in and just put these strengths back into this without coming in and getting so aggressive with my layers now why am I saying that because remember the hairline is jumped up automatically does more massive hair in the back area so you have to be particularly careful how we're elevating and graduating this side area so I want you to think very casually so watch what I'm doing up coming up I see where the integrity is lost now I'm gonna bring it down to my black shirt so that you can see that's all I'm doing is just something so with blunt closure of the shear it's giving us that integrity that we're looking for okay now watch I'm gonna take work my way down just a diagonal section coming back that's gonna allow me to make this link travel a little further to get back to this but remember it's just not about me blend it's about where do I see it's weak that's what I'm taking them if I go too deep with this meaning that I layer this too aggressively remember you're gonna just make this front area a little bit more fine in this area what I'm looking for is just some movement that kind of moves in that side area here see you can see I don't want to get too aggressive with this just lift up look for the integrity see that's integrity right there let's get rid of this right here and that's it don't get carried away and feel oh I gotta blend this you start blending my friends I guarantee you're gonna take all this weight out away from that front area okay now watch what I mean if let's just for example bring this up if I bring this up most people might be like this and take this so if I cut you there once you see what happens you see what happened now you've lost this lengthen you've allowing it round it out so when you get in density like this that's why we encourage you I select this and then come back and marry it in without going in and aggressively layering this area let it fill in a little bit okay we'll come just take it just to diagonal just lifting up not looking for blending just looking at the integrity okay so see how that needs strength right there so blunt closer over sheer will add strength softened by deep point down I'm going slightly on an angle why I want to maintain integrity give it a little bit more of a blunt edge then vert elevate just looking for this just bring it down my shirt so that you can see so most people would get really deep in this all I want to do is just soften that I'm just looking for movements because when the hair moves if there's any hard hardness you're gonna see it when it moves right now just really satisfied later that side all right let's go into this side area now on both sides now here the goal is I don't want to go in and blunt this off I'm actually kind of liking this bit but it means you can see it's lost that right there so here's what I wanna do just take it from the back just tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap so it's almost like that is there but let's make sure that we got a blend a visual blend on that so you can see how it's just basically dropping off right now so let's go back through okay let's continue to refine and detail now let's do it visually and see if we're really satisfied with what we see so let's just have her shake her head shoulders shoulder with us just looking at her thank good now there's one thing that's really bothering me and it's just this detached but these pieces that we want to kind of get a slight blend to and I'm just gonna go in and just take it off with a blender so I get a soft edge still so you see I still have a soft edge to that and look at the difference on that so let's just visualize that line and see it textures here y-you could see what I did with that so let's just turn remember all I'm doing is so I'm not thinning the hair I'm trying to get it at scanned edge to it so some cases I'll just go and use a texture share and that way I get that hey let's go through take a look I've just bring her to the front see more on that okay now let's bring this to the front here and just see if there's a little corner of anything to take off here now I'm personally liking this in terms of where it's at just because you know the fineness of her hair and that she like that attachment but then we talked about it and we both agree let's take that off in the side that's look great okay let's just detail when we find this opposite side and I think we're good to go now you saw how we started with Olga in terms of where her hair was and I think now I think Olga's hair looks twice as as thick as it did prior in terms of what we see and how it's working now so I think sometimes my friends even though plants want to have their hair long it's so important as a professional we help them understand what's gonna work best for them give me some options I'm not gonna talk a client in this game I'm gonna give them option a B or C remember don't talk them in into any look give them option a B and C based on fabric and based upon the cameras last thing we're doing is we're gonna pick up some wax blast ten think of a spray wax that's exactly what I have in my hand a control of ten ten times stronger than water working with a blow gun and I want to just go in and just bring back some of that texture [Music] I like doing that because now it gives the hair some texture gives it a little bit more wall looking and now just work with our hands and now look at the sense of volume and a sense of movement that she has and just working with your hands sometimes you ever find do a haircut in the salon and it makes your day you know have you ever done that and you're like I'm so happy I'm proud of it and then you're kind of like following the client and you're clipping things and you get to the front desk and then all the sudden you go back to the back room and you're like how'd you that was a beautiful haircut Sam how'd you do it and you're like I don't have a clue I just learned it but I got to tell you guys it is fun to really find other ways that you can cut hair that really work for you in terms of behind the chair to give you a profile view just start to give you a little back view and then back to the front so now let's recap the haircut what we did is we started out with one length hair thinking of a one-length bob we divided four panels in the back area not just left back left side and right side there's a corner that happens there when you're cutting here pay attention to that corner it tells you where to position your hand when you're working with bombs we work for the scanning working with a six-inch Signature Series swivel here so I could put my hand or gehrig anomaly in the proper place scan that reason we chose to scan that is because we want a pliable edge as it grows out it could be much easier for her to work with once we did that then what we did was we left out that side area just in front of that fringe area there remember that was it was so weak we didn't want to pick it up at all we wanted to keep it down low and just clean it up when we went to the edge at the end we took off what we had detached and just gave her a little bit of a longer length in the Sun area but gave it a little bit more of a visual blend in the back how do we start to New York layer I knew I didn't want to do a typical graduated bob underneath I think it would be taking too much hair underneath or too much length off in the back for her this the first time I've cut her hair next time baby won't go for it but what I did was cut that one length at the nape area that's where they had transitions so highly recommend when you want to leave the weight on fine hair use that point at the may at the top that's your guide and now just take everything and cut it to the round of the head and we went in there and we point cut of that and we were taking pie-shaped sections and overdressing to the center when we got to the front area we took diagonal back sections we lifted them we were not intentionally blending we were lifting to see what was needed some strength those little flyaway hairs we went in just took those off and he still got a little bit of a somewhat of a visual blend [Music] [Music] I hope you enjoyed watching this my friends what's the most important at the Styles app is that they are giving you information that you can use behind the chair so I really invite you to go to the Styles app go to the app on your phone pull it out now press your app styles sty L e Z in there you're gonna find content that's going to support you behind the chair and that's going to support your client relationship with you I want to thank you so much for your time on behalf of the Styles app

Channel: Sam Villa Hair Tutorials

Views: 387,743

Rating: 4.8476133 out of 5

Keywords: Bob haircut, short bobs for fine hair, bob cut, layered haircut, dry cut, hair cut, haircut, how to cut a bob, how to layer fine hair, behind the chair, sam villa, sam villa education, rekden, stylez app, hair tutorial, hair video, how to hair, hairstylist, hairdresser, beauty salon, hair tips, hair tricks, look allstars, hair education, cosmetology, hairstyle, bob haircut tutorial, how to layer hair, short haircut, haircuts for fine hair, stylist, short medium layered haircut

Id: u6HGfJBIN6k

Length: 40min 51sec (2451 seconds)

Published: Fri Jan 17 2020