How to bulletproof a Cummins Transmission! (The RIGHT way)

obviously we got the race truck here we've been kind of waiting on some parts and stuff to show up so it's kind of been in a standstill last couple days uh Tristan our in-house wiring and machining Guru got our harness all stripped down of all the unnecessary junk so right now you can see it's not loomed so I'll just exposed what we'll do is get it overlaid on the motor get everything hooked up get power to it we have the trans harness obviously we're running the 68 in this thing so we have the trans harness and the factory TCM to mount in the cab um we'll make sure everything works then we'll pull the harness back off have him Loom everything make it all nice so we don't have to worry about it shaping or looking like that but first things first ECM mounts on the side of the block so we'll get the new Dynamite diesel 12 mil CP3 swapped in here real quick so that way we have plenty of room we don't have to mess with that once it's all in and then we'll start drooping the harness on it and see how she goes We're Gonna Leave This pretty mild for the time being so this is a bone stock motor I don't even know if the head's ever been off this thing we put studs in it unknown miles probably in like the 800 to 1000 horse range we'll be okay with it we'll be pretty happy kind of shake down the truck there's a lot that goes into it kind of same thing I did with my race car slapped it in didn't turn it up make sure everything else Works um and then eventually I think we're going to take a motor we have sitting over here send off the D J and have them get all the machine work set up for another enforcer build and this will probably get another enforcer like the dino truck's going to get a lot of work to be done before we make power for sure key here this is my trick so you don't want to drop the washer into the timing case I just stick my finger on there so it can't take our little tool thread it in OG torque tech some people just want to watch the world burn it'll look better than the engine does hey you know what this engine's complete where's your internet still love you you don't even have a truck to put his engine in yet and he's scared to drive this anyways there she is stock coming CP3 injection pump and the new one will look identical just a little cleaner and more flow oh oh we have a what is you wanna you wanna tell us about this one I'm Bob Capri I tell you a little bit better all right so our friends at uh Dynamite diesel we're building this engine obviously along with what he's doing um he's doing a track version of a 60 hour fee test program that we're doing this is a Dyno version of around 2200 horsepower so our buddies up with dynamite sent us some super mental injectors it'll get us to the 2200 Mark and then these two pumps along with the third one actually that he needs but we're gonna give him one of these and go out there and install that sucker [Music] we just speed up through this part foreign what happened to the steering wheel bro uh we put it on the roof you know it's for safety oh okay Dylan likes to put it up there for whatever reason instead of leaving it in the cab a little Panic inducing when you go to move the truck and realize it's not on the floor and they're already pushing you but that's okay that's okay we'll get him there that'll probably leak because it's an O-ring and I'll have to figure out why it's leaking and put a status seal on it anyways but for now that'll be just and later we'll go back through since this was all just kind of mocked up to build lines nothing was actually tight but now that we have our CP3 in we can actually go through and tighten all this and then once this wiring is done we'll start getting some of that stuff figured out all right now the fun part that sounded enthusiastic I don't like wiring terrible my OCD makes these jobs much much more miserable than they need to be ECM actually mounts down here I'll grab that here in a little bit but we'll kind of drape this over here's your injector connector so you just kind of find what you know and kind of put it in place iron it on in here and just kind of start hooking up a couple things that way it'll kind of locate itself now you can kind of see why I wanted to do the fuel pump first having this line there is a little bit of a pain but having to do the pump once the harness is in so luckily Tristan very like-minded actually labeled everything for us fuel rail intake temp sensor so these can stay up over here and this is just kind of rough roughing it in make sure everything reaches and plugs in which obviously it should this is a factory harness we just strip down just adding to your list of things to fix huh yeah that's pretty much how it goes you wait around for four days doing nothing while you're waiting on parts and then everything shows up in one day and the weekly wasted waiting is now a week for the work you got to get done Gotti labeled these these two plugs are actually the same they're the same sensor so it's if your harness has a bunch of slack like this you are 100 capable of hooking him up in the wrong one that's it this is our other connector for the ECM you have a C1 and a C2 basically one is the inputs here you'll have pedal OBD2 port everything in the cab that's important for this um and then your ever and then you have your other C connector C1 and C2 we'll both go to the ECM down here and those are your outputs obviously so input ECM generates it into whatever data it needs to see pulling from that side and then the magic happens okay well ARP 625 headsets for Cummins very hard to come by right now uh one of our good buddies Rod McMaster out of Florida and Columbia and generally the Hardway racing Camp had me playing around so we picked them up cleaned them up and they'll be just fine yeah ground wire you may not even use this I might just make Tristan extend this he's gonna be pissed I'll get this figured out we'll come back and show you what we came up with hopefully when Tristan makes our block off plate for this [Music] he uh leaves enough room there if not then I will take a grinder to his brand new part and not feel bad at all I'm gonna climb underneath here in a second and plug in the harness for the TCM right there to the trans all the speed sensors line pressure sensor and valve body connector and then kind of figure out how much slack we got I think we got plenty be nice to shove that plug inside the cab but I don't think I don't want to cut the firewall out anymore so get in here I really hope this works I'll be honest is supposed to come through the floorboard uh normally the TCM is mounted to the firewall and the passenger side um and then it runs over and drops down we're going to be mounting the TCM on the firewall on the passenger side inside the cab uh just to keep it out of there because the exhaust is over there and all that good garbage just kind of protect it in there and then if we have to do any wiring whatever more easily accessible here's our TCM Factory 07.5 to 09 third gen Dodge that we're going to be running this and the dyno truck off Factory TCMS as if you're going to Showcase a product like our 68s that they'll work nobody's gonna have Standalone they want to put it in their truck and know it's going to work so we're going to use Factory TCMS for ours and then we can control the tuning all we want on HP tuners separately from the engine ECM side so we're taking a break on the race truck right now waiting for parts to show up and probably should focus on doing my actual job a little bit we're gonna do a stage 268 uh I usually build stuff ahead of time so I've got the pump already put together I did that this morning while you guys are out probably sleeping or whatever output planetary I usually weld these ahead of time so I got a stack over there ready so this thing's already ready to go it's all put together we have a builder Billet input shaft for our stage twos I just kind of like pile my parts up at the Rev Max inner drum but roller sprag already built that one out just kind of swap it out they're pretty quick and easy so I just kind of get my main pieces together first thing I'll do is a little reverse drum these pieces here that sprag I just showed you is going to end up going in here as well come over here there's a piston over here seems like we go back and forth a lot that's why I keep everything close let's roll this thing make sure all of our seal lips are good I don't have any tears or Nicks never put a seal in dry it's a perfect way to form to catch and tear now we can stack our low reverse clutches in here after we put that spray again roller sprag you can see in here the actual rollers the factory style is a dog bone sprag like this and they notoriously will roll and essentially go the other way it destroys all kinds of stuff so that is one of the upgrades in our stage two units seven enters and seven outers Alternatives stack them in there there's really not much to the low reverse drum let's come in here we find our snap ring easiest way to do it separate the ones you know they're not I set aside all the case Snappers here because of the way that these grooves are in here versus the rest of the transmission it puts a distinct wear on them so you have kind of the idea the size there's one or two that are close yep check clearance on this like I said there's not really anything to change in these or just it's more a verification it's just one of the steps we do all the way through to make sure there's not something funny going on maybe I've had in the past where sometimes the grooves in these are worn out mostly in the overdrive underdrives but you just check it because it's it's gonna make sure you have good good product you don't have any problems before you even get started next up is going to be the input drum assembly but starting here with our outer drum I've already slapped the return spring in here snap ring a couple of seals that go in here we'll slap in real quick the input drum itself this is where the input shaft splines into and then you have pistons and and all that good junk in here once we're setting the bottom and allow us to stack all of our clutches inside the inner drone which you'll see here in a second so this is going to sit down into the outer drum you have a seal surface here and here which of those two we just put in this piece so we'll go ahead and get those lubed easy then next up is this get all these seals pasted pretty good we'll check these out these have already all gone through the wash our return spring here for this piston uh these actually are very commonly fail won't really do a whole lot because it's contained in here but what will normally happen is these little where these two pieces come together they'll just tear it'll rip the leg of it off so this thing will be all cattywampus we got spares I'd say it's about every third transmission sometimes a few in a row but this one looks fine we'll go ahead and reuse it that you just kind of tap it and you'll watch this snap ring drop right in there you go and just kind of give it a couple more make sure it's seated all the way that ring land throw our pressure plate in there a couple snap rings and then we'll stack our overdrive clutches in the top which obviously is a big concern area in the 68s this being a stage two will have our 16 clamp 16 count stack out in here um so we go up or down from there depending on what stage it is obviously clutch count increases surface area and then with that added pressure that's what gives all your holds so how many horsepower does stage two normally rated for stage two is a rated 750 horsepower there's a few key upgrades over the stage ones build an input and we go to the triple disk clutch count is increased from the stage one as well and the overdrives a couple little things like that nothing real crazy but it's a lot of small things that add up so we have our under drives in with a pressure plate snap ring in so what we'll go ahead and do now is we have this Nifty homemade tool that Matt The Madman made our in-house idiot savant hook this up the underdrive port and essentially what this is doing is this is mimicking the pump we have over there you see the bottom of it has all those ceiling rings I need this to be the same thing and then it just has air holes so you can feed essentially line pressure for air pressure into it and then check your clearances on the clutch 58 good I like that I write down my clearances over here so they can input that that way every unit has all been everything it went together with is annotated obviously you have the parts list on the invoice keep track of the clearances then when Jared tests this thing out we have anything weird we have data to go back and look at for under drive and our overdrive clutches stacked out measured everything's good we've got our build input usually just as a good source of habit there's a check ball in there so that weird noise you heard like you know check Ball's free and then I hit the other one just make sure there's no debris and junk in there so you don't want any of that whole point of a clean Transmissions make sure you don't have anything in it so we have more stuff to stuff in here basically this whole assembly will be about yay tall but we were talking about the breeze so we talked about this being green it's just tackier it's similar to how that stuff is if it's not under the lamp we just use it as paste basically arts and crafts time so that little bushing we threw Lube on earlier is where this rides so you just work this in past all the clutches once you feel it spin smooth you know it's all bottomed out and then same thing here we have bushings inside so we'll glue our bearing in and we'll Lube these spots where that rides on here um so we'll go ahead and start stacking out the case we've got all our sub assemblies done first thing I do is look at the paint job make sure the tear it home guys and the paint guys did a good job in all light spots or anything like that if we do I'm more than happy to send it back this one looks pretty good but first things first pull it on here and I blow out all the holes there's pump mounting holes there's fluid passages pan bolt holes these are blind all five of these in the factory pan siliconed on so you'll get silicone impacted in there if you try to tighten down your bolts there that's generally how these things strip out so we'll check those make sure there's nothing in them what I usually do is just you don't have any squishiness in there it's good we don't have to do anything get that out otherwise that all gets cleaned out as well but we'll just blow it all out with air real quick and then we'll start stacking our assemblies in there the low reverse drum ones go in here [Music] drop it in you'll get a drop here and then just check make sure it's been free on the bottom from here we'll start setting up for our four C's there's another planet in there we'll get thrown in we're waiting on a part for a thinner support still look so let's go through and get this stuff done while we wait bearing on this will come in and spline into all the clutches we just put into the 4C m put the three years towards you put it over your head keeps everything held together drop it in and then not really a special tool at all this is a part we already put in the transmission but after that little spline helps everything drop in sometimes they fall right in but usually not and then this monster snap ring so we're talking about this earlier if this Gap right here in the snap ring isn't lined up this snap ring will actually contact the valve body not allow it to seat we've seen units come in from I don't know if it's less experienced or just don't care but they'll put them in and not line that up I've seen them before where there's an inch or inch and a half ground out of the snap ring just to make it clear after they already had the whole trans together and assuming all of that material is going into your trans you just paid whatever John Doe shop to do so make sure that we get it set in there right just like we seeded the other tapered snap ring we'll take this and we'll just to get that nice heavy clunk and then seat both ends there it is make sure she's seated all the way a little filter hole a little bit so the filter slides right in drop this bad boy down we'll go ahead and check and play real quick after we throw a couple pump bolts in it torque those down get the pump cover on it and we'll flip it over and throw the valve on in sure there we go the cone of loud noises just like an oil filter throw a little bit of something on there [Applause] this is our stage two plus two all the way to four we use the same valve body has the Billet channel plate you guys could link up with Jared to see what else other kind of magic he does in here but this is kind of the the flagship of of 68 stuff is getting that the valve body all done proper all right we got our valve body in torque down both filters here um throw our band gasket on here and our Pan the factory ones are sealed with silicone they're obviously stamped steel kind of chintzy um but you got silicone them on and once they go on once the likelihood of them leaking after that are pretty good so this adds a little bit of fluid a little bit of resistance to the Heat and then it gives you a drain plug which is nice so you can actually service them without making a mess all over your hoa's driveway then you pray that they all torque down and none of them are stripped usually check the cases before they come over here the tear down guys check them but sometimes they're kind of until you find them beforehand you can drill them we do time certs in them if they need them I've had some so bad that I had to put a Time cert in every single one every unit gets a new OEM line sensor very important data comes from this thing so as cheap as they are will you go ahead and put them on and a single one ring here is where Park holds onto once this comes through you'll see that this will tie in there it's offset right now and you get that rock and it clicks in that's what that is where it's rolling until it gets to that next Notch which is why I put it neutral set the parking brake and then put it in park because that makes me uncomfortable when I lose sleep at night it's my fancy new Amazon gun it's the other one's like 16 feet long and I don't like that Bob hates it because it wasn't made before 1975. Matt was befuddled which is great because that means nobody will steal it from me Oh no just enough to make it it's gonna be I don't actually know how to unload that yet this is the first tube I put through it but I'll do it later on I think it's junk isn't it I told you it was junk when you bought it I told you what I tell you it's made made after 1975 he hates it so all of our units get stamped for the serial number for obvious reasons be important later sometimes they're a little wonky 23rd all right and we're done that's it it'll go over to Jared Hill dyno test it with the converter that it's getting sold with and leave it in there so when you get it you know this whole thing works so makes it a little easier to help figure out if there are issues a lot of times they'll end up being on the truck side now that we verified it and it does help the end user and us if we do develop an issue once a known good trans goes in so um so we got this thing all wrapped up that leaves me a little bit more time we start working on the race truck again we've got some parts showing up so hopefully next time you guys see that thing it's running driving has the wrap done and you'll see us at nhrda hope to see you there

Channel: Tier One Transmissions

Views: 25,941

Keywords: tier one transmissions, tieronetransmissions, 68rfe transmission, cummins transmission

Id: pyG3iBIAi0U

Length: 21min 1sec (1261 seconds)

Published: Wed Apr 05 2023