ATS Swap · Cummins to Allison Conversion Kit - Installation

[Music] hey guys clint here with ads today so today we're going to do the install on one of our allison conversions so we have kind of two basic flavors of alice conversions one is converting from a 68 rfe and the other is converting from an acen 69 rc or in some cases in the earlier trucks the asyn-68 for the most part you know the big popularity on these vehicles is taking your 68 rfe out of the vehicle or the async 69 out of the vehicle and upgrading to the allison so this happens to be a 14 truck which generally you know we have 13 different kits all the way back from the five nines up to the 20 22 67 and most of the installations are the same the basic allison transmission the wiring harness the ecm or tcm excuse me the translator module and then basically driveline so it's relatively straightforward every every couple years you know there's a little bit of a break like the transfer case might mount just a little bit differently those types of things but for the most part it's all the same so what we're going to show you today is how easy it is removing the transmission which we've already done that we're going to waste your time on what it takes to take the transmission out you all know that but we want to make sure that you have a good idea of exactly what it's going to take to install the transmission and that means looking at checking out the flex plate installing the transmission making the little bit of transfer case mod so the transfer case installs behind the transmission working out your drive lines installing the wiring harness and strolling the translator module installing the tcm and basically firing everything up so pretty straightforward and like i say there's no wires that you have to cut and splice on this so you guys are going to get get through this video and realize that this is probably about the easiest installation you can do so in other words if if you can r r transmission if you can remove a 68 rfe from it from a vehicle and install it and go through your quick learn get it full of fluid put all your nuts and bolts in plug in your wiring harness you are fully qualified to install or upgrade to our allison six-speed automatic swap for all the ram vehicles so we're gonna get started we're gonna lift this thing up in the air and we're gonna slam the transmission and start with and kind of go through you know step a to z so stick with us [Music] okay so we're gonna go ahead and i'm going to walk through a couple of parts of this kit so first of all what we have is our main wiring harness this goes from the tcm to the transmission this guy goes inside the cab has your data link connector you have your transmission control module you have your this is really the secret behind making everything work the translator module basically takes all the information from the vehicle translates it to the transmission and vice versa and then some other little components like a shift linkage piece that i'll show you later this is the manual linkage for the apart reverse neutral drive low your motor mount have a nice little thing of nuts and bolts so everything is packaged really nice so you have everything in the kit that you need you're not gonna have to run the hardware store or anything else so these just happen to be the studs that go into the transfer case so you saw this if you just earlier the way we put everything together it's basically our ring our clocking ring and the reluctor this is the speed sensor that the tcm looks at to know what vehicle speed is so is that when we press that reluctor ring on that's all you have to do there and then you take these bolts and you bolt on your clocking ring the clocking ring only goes on one way okay so some models we have a cast extension housing so you don't need any of this and you'll see that the cast extension housing on the back of the transmission says ats on it and it's a it's a very heavy duty casting in some cases we use the factory extension housing in some case in in a in a clocking ring in some cases we use our ats cast extension housing it's very straightforward when you see the kit you'll know what you're getting but regardless this is what it basically takes to mount the transfer case to the back of the transmission so it's clocked properly has your speed sensor has everything you need we've we've made this really super easy so like there's there's no fuss with it so getting back to the harness what we're going to do is first thing we're going to do is we're going to run this this main harness we're going to mount our tcm okay so the tcm is going to mount up in the in into the fender well which we'll show you here in just a little bit you but literally the first thing you're going to do is you're going to remove the fender well from the left front of the vehicle so your driver's side front of the vehicle and that's going to access the bottom side of the of the tipim and the electronics it makes it really nice and easy this will bolt basically bolt up into the fender which we'll show you here a moment and then you're gonna insta they're gonna we're gonna plug this in the tcm here's your bolt right so this bolt when you when you plug it in when you screw it in then this bolt you just tighten up and it this makes a really nice firm connection where that plugs into the tcm at that point you're basically done mounting the tcm in the harness okay this guy is going to plug into this one which goes in inside the hood and i'm going to show you how that works right it just plugs right in so this will be outside of the fender well i'm sorry the firewall this will be on the pass through on the firewall so we're going to sneak this through the firewall which the nice thing about ram is all the vehicles they all came with the standard transmission and there's all two bolt location that you pull that out and that's where the clutch rod would go through so we make a nice grommet you pull that factory piece out and you slide this through and then you button it up so we'll show you details here in a little bit then at that point you basically have your fuse box so these are fuses you know if you open this up then you have basically fuses and relays in here so that's so generally most models we use all the factory fuses and all the factory relays that the vehicle came with to control the transmission in some models we have to actually add a relay or a fuse box it just kind of depends but for the most part again no cutting wires or splicing any of that other garbage the only loose wires you have are basically a ground an additional ground that you're going to ground up and then you got a power and ignition wire so very very simple and then when you follow the loom a little bit farther down you have these guys so this is your data link connector looks real familiar right you plug in your data link connector and then this is the programming port so we can plug in so we can program in the future or if we need to make a change you plug this into the translator module okay this translator module bolts in on the left side kick panel right where you're where your foot is so you pull the kick panel out right beside the brake pedal and the accelerator pedal and you remove the tcm on the asym models or if it's a 68 model you literally just bolt this up we have factory bolt that bracket so this just bolts in like totally factory i mean you you just can't get any cleaner and this basically linux like so and then this guy is goes into security bypass you plug that in and you plug that right into the fuse panel and that's how you get your data into the vehicle so i like to say all plug and play so you have your your your data source here that goes to the can information you have your translator module okay and then with the translator module you can access the tcm and the translator module from these two data link connectors so they bolt right up underneath inside the firewall so you basically have like a you can use a snap-on scanner you can use a allison dock software you can use efi live anything that will communicate with an allison tcm we keep that open architecture so you can access that modify it whatever if you need to now we send you this tcm fully calibrated with the calibration for the particular vehicle so we have you know probably 20 different base calibrations that we kind of start with based on what year it is what your axial ratio is 2500 3500 cabin chassis um whatever combination right we've done so many of these we pretty much know that you know what calibration we're going to need for us for the particular vehicle once we get it in you know if we wanted to make it a small change say miles per hour or shift quality whatever then easy peasy i mean just plug it in you can download your calibration put it back in change it whatever so all those tools are available but generally we found that i mean it's probably maybe like five percent uh vehicle owners once we do this install you know need to go and make any changes you know nice thing is you can make the change so we're not roped into like all the other conversion kits out there where they give you a basic bus calibration or a dump truck calibration or some analog calibration that can't be modified our stuff is completely open architecture and we did that for a reason we know that every vehicle needs a specific calibration and don't be fooled if you think you can take a calibration and stick it into all trucks you're wrong you know it just doesn't work that way that's been proven throughout the industry and again that's why we spent so much time making sure this was open source so we have all the ability to make any changes we want so what we're going to do is we're going to take our main harness we're going to we're going to run it through get that set up we're going to take our secondary harness install it mount our translator kind of bolt all this stuff in and that will be basically the wiring portion now this section after you do a few times i mean you're talking like you're talking like an hour or two of installation you know taking your time running all the wires going it's all plug and play so you're going to you're really going to be impressed you know i mean you're really going to dig what what we're offering here and just the this the ease of feasibility of install so we're going to get started so edgar is going to go ahead and raise this thing up and we'll start with the fender well here that you see and as you kind of take a look at the fender well area this is where so since i'm here i'm going to show you real quick how the tcm mounts so we pulled this fender well out right so here's your battery tray factory electronics so this is going to go basically right up into here and mount and then the connector is going to plug into this and go down to the transmission so very very easy and one other little thing if you can see it here is this guy okay that's the hole up here where my finger is that is where your clutch reservoir typically would go in a standard transmission and because we're an automatic and this is a ram vehicle they all have this little access cover so from the inside we're going to remove the two 13-millimeter nuts take those off and take that plate out and then we're just going to slide our harness right through it and then put a grommet on it so just like super clean easy the tcm with the bracket it takes a 13 millimeter bolt up on top uh with the bracket that holds up the hood um and then it takes a 10 uh millimeter bolt it goes on it holds on to the horn as well so there's uh it's all custom made um we have uh both for the hook and for the bolt they both go up on here right up in the fender go ahead and do that okay so we have our 30 millimeter wrench uh we're going to go ahead and tie up the uh upper bolt that is the one that holds down the hood bracket itself go ahead and tie that down that is tight so now we grab our 10 millimeter wrench we go ahead and tie up the uh the 10 millimeter bolt that's holding on to the horn itself uh that's gonna be the lower bolt closest to the radiator okay that's tight um so now what we want to do is we want to make sure that we connect the horn uh we plug it in make sure we don't leave it loose or unplugged okay that's plugged in so now i'm gonna grab the harness this is the harness that goes down to the transmission itself connects to the uh tcm and then it runs down to the transmission so what i do is i uh i run it from right here from the side of the wheel fend the wheel fender if i run the part that goes down to the transmission first from right here i have access to push it down with no wires no uh plugs getting caught up and as well i have the space to grab it from down here and kind of work it down so now that we have the bottom part the part that goes down to the transmission down so what we want to do is we want to connect the one that goes into the tcm we go ahead and connect that one and so once again there's a bolt here once you tie it down that's what actually gives it the proper connection to the tcm okay go grab them so now we have uh i i just use a gun with an eight millimeter uh socket i go very smooth very uh gentle on this boat we don't want to over tie it because then we can strip it and in order for it to come back out it would be a big mess okay so now that i have the plug already plugged in i have my um harness running down to the transmission now i'm gonna start working on the part that goes into the cab uh from the engine bay into the cab so i'm gonna go ahead and grab that one that's this one here this is the one that takes the uh relays fuses these wires go up into the engine bay as well you have your ground wire you have your positive wire and then you have the wire that goes into your fuse box we will show you guys what how that's connected so this one here this is the one that goes into your controller inside of the cab this one has to go in through that uh factory hole that they have on the firewall um once you get that uh cover off and and this one as well this one goes into the cap this is our actually our obd2 connector this is how we can scan the transmission to see what's going on with it and as well as this one this one connects also to our obd2 connector and it gives us access to read the code so i'm going to go ahead and now first i want to go ahead and put the uh plug that goes in into the controller first um because the spacing of that uh factory hole on the firewall is pretty tight so this one goes in first you know what i got to get that bracket off because i put the bracket back on so i can 15 millimeter nut that uh that i just took off it takes two of them off of that cover the one off the uh firewall um it's right underneath the whole column it's right there i mean it just has two nuts you can see it right away so so you have to take off the two nut from the inside of the cab and then what we do now okay so now that we take those uh good option for him to get a picture of it this way and pull it out so figure out what height you need to get in there and look at that um it's gonna be that one right there okay so this is the uh um cover that we took off the two nuts inside the cab so what we wanna do is we want to work with it sometimes because of the insulation it gives you a little bit of a hard time to pull it out you just have to rock it back and forth there it goes so this is the cover um normally it's one piece uh but this is the cover the one that has the two nuts in the cab so what we do is we put this one down to the side we go ahead and grab our harness this is the harness that goes in the cab once again we start off with the connector that goes into the controller first so that one is in so now what we want to do is we want to since we still have to put our our obd2 connector and then well both connectors inside the cab as well you want to go ahead and start with the bigger one because you have more space so you got to kind of got to kind of bend the wires just a little bit so that they run together instead of it being like this you want them running together so that they go in the hole properly or easier okay so now we have uh all of our connectors that are going into the cab already in that in that manner in that factory uh hole from the firewall so now we have our connector that goes right here into our uh tcm and then we have the ground and the other wires with the fuse box that go up in the engine bay so we put those towards the top try to make sure that they hold on to something so that they're not up in the way since we have those two now we go ahead and connect our harness that goes from the tcm to the controller so that's already connected what i did here i trimmed down a little bit of the uh of the of the frame um just so that once we put our our fender wall cover it really doesn't affect us in any way we actually can just kind of scoot them in there where it clears out any of any pressure pushing down the cover so now what i do is kind of match them up here and then i have this harness running down right here so i'm going to grab a zip tie zip tie this so that it doesn't have anywhere to move so this is our uh zip tie the big one just announced so that it goes around both harnesses coming out of the tcm and then we also go around this uh looping around the the uh factory harness that's already there and then there's that we're going to start working on the top part of the engine bay okay so now since we have our harness going into the cab we have it already tied down to the tcm we're going to start working on the top part the engine bay section we have our fuse box i will normally put a zip tie here um this one here bends a little bit so i kind of bend them just enough or i guess this one doesn't bend there's ones that do so just kind of zip tie it here so that you have quick access to the fuses relays whatever you're working with so then you have your ground wire here it could go straight to the battery um i just go straight to the frame uh there's a ground wire connector here with a stud what i do is i take the whole bolt out with the the whole stud with the bolt one piece take that out run the as back as possible behind every uh or or any accessories that you may have there all trucks are different so what i do is i grab a 13 millimeter wrench take this bolt off go ahead grab the ground i go first through the original ground wire that's coming out of the factory harness going through that one first that's my ground wire it's already connected um with my positive i said i try to run everything through the bottom try to run it with already existing harnesses that kind of just match up look like it's part of the factory setup so i go ahead and uh you know 10 millimeter bolt connected here and once uh we have most of the harness connected we will go and show you guys how how we're connecting these fuse uh this this wire the yellow with the red stripe goes into the fuse box and that's what gives it uh power only when the key is on so once we have that already connected uh we go ahead and put our cover this is the cover where our conversion harness is running into the cab so we go ahead and put it on and then it has the two nuts from inside of the cab you tie it down it goes just right up in here right up in the firewall more of a stable location and then we just go like this with the fuse box nice and tight as well so that's not flopping everywhere cut the tip so now we will go and start working on the bottom the harness that runs down to the transmission or install the transmission then work on that side of the harness okay guys uh this is the uh install of the transmission there's a few things that we have to kind of uh keep our eye on uh makes it easier for the install quicker one of the things is here up on our flex plate um we have a guide there's 12 holes and there's one that's oval instead of it being rounded this is our guide to go ahead and start our torque converter uh to tie it up quicker where we don't have to put all the bolts in first and then and then tie them up we can go ahead and start on this oval hole first and just start tying up the whole bolts that makes it a whole lot quicker the process this is our cooler line um this right here is our harness this is the harness that runs from the tcm down to the transmitter okay so this is the uh unit we have our torque converter in the bell housing so we also have the bolts on the torque converter we want to make sure we take off those bolts before we install it or else it won't fit so we have uh we have uh eight bolts that go in the bell housing we got four on the right side four on the left um i want to make sure we tie them all up equally there's two that have the dial pin those are those are the ones that i tile first i usually grab a wrench a ratchet and i tie it up first with the ratchet to make sure that i have my proper gap between my flex plate and my torque converter make sure i don't damage the pump or none of that we just try to get the harness out of the way as best as possible before we go all the way up with the unit uh we want to go ahead and put our filler tube so this is our filler tube right here uh we want to make sure we put that inside uh put it inside the engine bay first before we go all the way up with the unit or else we won't have the spacing to put up the filler tube once the unit is already stabbed to the block so the filler tube goes uh towards the driver's side of the engine bay i'm gonna go straight in you have all the gap all the space that that that you need go ahead and start off first lining up the dowel pins you have one dowel pin on each side so we align those first okay so i have my driver's side already lined up i'm going to go ahead and start a bolt just so that it doesn't come out of the dowel pin it holds in there makes it easier to align the other side once again i grab an extension those those eight bolts are 14 millimeters or 9 16. so what i do is i grab the extension the socket the wobble socket makes it a whole lot easier to go in there in the spacing so i just i tie up the bolt just enough until it hits the bell housing i don't want to hand tie it all the way to the block not yet until i could align the other side of the dowel pin okay so we have our filler tube is already installed it goes on the driver's side of the engine bay we have one bolt to the driver's side of the bell housing now we're just working on the other uh dowel pin section from the passenger side once we connect that we hand tie it first um ratchet uh extension and the socket of course uh wobble 14 millimeter or 9 16. we go ahead and then first tie it down with the wrench make sure that we have our proper gap and spacing between our flex plate and our torque converter and once those two are tied up and we're sure that we have our gap in our spacing then we can go ahead and grab an uh half inch impact gun and just tie up the rest of the bolts so now that we have one side already connected of the bell housing makes it a whole lot easier to work to work with the other side you might feel as if you have a very tight space between the heat shield that runs on on your uh foot panel on the seat panel and the whole unit itself might feel like it's already touching and and it sometimes it will you you still have enough space to just put those two bolts where the dowel pins are at just to flush the whole unit with the block and then after that you just uh drop down drop down the whole unit just a little bit where it gives us enough spacing to put up the bolts that go on top of the bell housing so now that i have my passenger side dowel pin already lined up i'm going to grab a bolt and i'm going to start that as well of course at the same time i'm going to make sure as i'm tying it up a hat will with a ratchet and the extension no gun yet i'm going to make sure that i have my proper gap and so spacing between my torque converter and my flex plate now that i have them all the way i have my bolts all the way uh flushed with the bell housing the bell housing is not flush with the block yet so i'm going to go ahead and turn my torque converter it's turning which tells me that i have the proper uh spacing so now once again i'm going to use a ratchet extension and the socket i'm going to first do it by hand i don't want to apply too much pressure in case i don't have the proper spacing between my flex plate and torque converter because that will break the pump the unit will will have to come back out so my torque converter is moving so i can go ahead and finish tying up these two bolts that go in the dowel pins that one is tight now we tie up the other one and that's tight so now we can go ahead and put our ratchet to the side connect our air tools go ahead and connect our air tools we have a bracket that holds on to the fuel lines on the driver's side so bracket takes two of the bell housing bolts it goes connected to the belt housing but before we tie up one or the other you have to make sure that we start it off first just so that we know that it's not going to be cross threaded when we tie up the other end you might well you will have to move the factory harness just a little bit so you can have a clear view of the upper bolt that holds down that bracket to the bell housing spacing is going to be a little tight so you might struggle just a little bit it's not that bad so because we have the harness running up there what i do is i connect the bolt to the socket to the extension so now that i ca that i can see that it's in the hole the bell housing hole and the bracket hole i'm going to go ahead and since i know i have my proper clearance from my torque converter and my flex plate i'm going to go ahead and use the gun to start tying start tying up the bolts so now i have all of my four bolts on my driver's side all tied up i have my bracket that holds on to my fuel lines i have my filler tube have everything that i have the the filler tube is clearing or the um speed sensor is actually cleared away from the filler tube so now we're going to drop the unit just a little bit we can go ahead since it's already tied up to the block we can go ahead and get our safety strap out this is just to make sure that our unit does not slip fall or create any unsafety situations with our transmission on the jack so we lower it just a little bit just so that we have enough space um with the with the upper passenger side bell housing boat now one thing that we don't want to do is we don't want to drop the unit too much because that that's actually applying too much pressure on the engine mounts okay so our passenger side bolts are all tied up already so our our whole bell housing right now is all tied up to the blocks already flush i already checked the gap the spacing that i have between my torque converter flex plate the torque converter is rotating so we're good to go i'm going to go ahead and show you guys um how the whole transfer case is already set up with the bracket um and and how we and the gasket so that we can go ahead and install that next you good okay so this is our transfer case we have everything ready to go you have a gasket that goes in between your transfer case and the bracket the spacer and then you have an o-ring that goes from the spacer to the tail housing of the transmission we're gonna go ahead and install that now so in the kit um you guys will get a a set of uh bolts uh nuts stuff like that we have the five nuts here that go on the transfer case so it holds down the transfer case then we have the two that go into the controller but i'm gonna go ahead and grab these six nuts you never want to let go of the transfer case once it's already uh stabbed into the transmission safety precaution you don't want that transfer case sliding off so once you have one nut on there then it's safe to get you know release release your arms release the pressure that that you're applying to maintain the torque the transfer case connected to the transmission so these nuts are 14 millimeters or 9 16 as well so i use a stubby 14 millimeter wrench ratchet side on it i also want to make sure that you uh tie them up in a pattern of if you're tying up a wheel you don't want to go one two three four five six you want to go one two three four five six crisscross them okay so now that we have our transfer case tied up to our transmission and go ahead and put a pull jack on the transfer case which is going to give us the ability to take the transmission jack uh from from underneath the transmission it's going to give us all of the spacing that we that we need to go ahead and put our harness crossmember and our dry shafts okay so now we have our pole jack here holding up uh the whole weight of the transmission and the transfer case uh before we want to uh put up the brack the transmission mount in the bracket and the cross member before we do that we want to go ahead and start with the harness that connects them to the transfer case or the transmission so that we have the proper spacing now that we have the uh pole jack on our transfer case uh holding up the weight of the transmission and the transfer case we're gonna uh start with the harness uh so that we have since our transmission is uh hanging a little bit we have enough space uh from the floorboard and the transmission to put up the the the um conversion harness okay now we're starting off with the uh the harness so what we want to do is we want to make sure that the factory harness is actually riding on the top part of the case so it's going to be on the upper side of our of ours of our speed sensors that's going to give us the proper spacing to put the uh conversion harness through that same area so what we want to do is we want to push our factory harness above the transmission since it's hanging and we have the gap or the spacing right now once we go up with the cross member in our mount then of course we want to push or we want to pull the factory harness away from the top of the transmission because that would not give us that that would just crush the harness with the floorboard and we do not want to cause any damage to the harness so once we have already our harness our factory harness above the transmission we start off with the first speedo speed sensor that's on the bell housing that one has an eight millimeter bolt we want to take that eight millimeter bolt out we want to go ahead and put the bracket that's on on the first sensor put that bracket where that bolt goals that's actually holding the whole harness down and then keeping it from it moving or it getting damaged in any way okay so we're starting off with the harness go ahead and you want to start off with the bolt that's on the belt holding holding down the speed sensor with eight millimeter bolt we want to start off with that one since we have the space above from the floorboard and harness and the transmission we have that bracket that goes on the conversion harness it's already tied down to that bolt that holds down this the speed sensor that's on the belt housing so now we're trying to we're going to plug in our harness to our speed sensor and that gives us the uh upper part of the transmission already connected now what we want to connect next is our speedometer that goes towards the mid part of our transmission so we have that one connected as well now we have another bracket towards the tail housing of the transmission that bracket takes a bolt that holds takes a bolt to the case that holds the harness down and in place where it won't be right or just moving around everywhere so okay so we got that that bolts tied up with holding our our conversion harness to the unit so now we can go ahead and bring down the factory harness down we will eventually put a few zip ties from the conversion harness to the factory harness just to make sure that we have everything nice and stable so now we want to work with the harness of your transfer case i want to make sure that your breather hose from the transfer case is also connected so now we just connect the back side of the transfer case which is the harness to the motor so now now that we have that connected we have uh we still need to connect so the only thing the only thing we have connected are the speedometers and the main harness that goes into the transmission the other two connectors that we have is the one that goes the one that goes from uh the factory harness to our conversion harness the only two plugs that are that are unplugged right now so we just finish up as much as we can with our cross member our bracket and our mount make sure that we can get everything out of our way so we have more space to work with and then we go ahead and start connecting this as well as zip tying our harness to the factory harness and um taping up the ends of the factory harness so that no dirt no water no nothing goes in there and starts contaminating the connectors and all of that so now that we have our factory harness um on this side of the unit so now it's right in where our harness it's not really on top of the unit where it's being crushed with the floorboard now that we have that now we can lift up our transmission to give us a proper space to put our our transmission mount bracket and our member so so this one here is our transmission mount takes two bolts go straight up into the tail housing of the unit now we can go ahead and grab our air tool i'm using 15 millimeter uh bolts so your mount goes on first and this one right here is our bracket this is the one that goes from the mount to the cross member now as you could tell there's three holes one two three uh the way that we've installed it um just so that you guys don't get confused the bolt that's closer to the edge that's the one that's going towards the back of the of the truck so towards the transfer case that's how as as you could see there's a longer length on one side than what there is on the other side so you always have to make sure that the center bolt that's closest to the edge that's the one that goes towards the transfer case and as well i am using two 15 millimeter nuts that go from the mount to the bracket okay so we have our mount we have our bracket so now we're gonna work on the crossmember okay so our cross members already on [Music] installed so now we can go ahead and lower the whole unit so that the bracket the transmission mount bracket and the cross member pretty close to each other doesn't have to be sitting on the cross member because you still would you still have to move the whole unit from one side down to the next just to line up the whole bolt it's not that much but you would still have to just kind of move it a little bit so you don't want the whole bracket sitting on the cross member just yet so in the kit as well you will have three bolts with three nuts these will go on those holes that i was just explaining earlier on the bracket okay so now we have two bolts of the three bolts that go on that bracket uh to the cross member on the third one the one in the middle that's the one that takes um the bracket takes this bracket here that's on our conversion harness that one gets tied down to that bolt that keeps it keeps the harness nice and steady and now that we have those three bolts already in there hand tight or hand started we can go ahead and grab our pole jack out of the way so now that we have the three bolts ready uh hand started go ahead and grab 18 millimeter socket from the bottom that's the nut and a 15 millimeter and that actually is uh most of it um the transmission side from here what we have to do is just our torque converter which is just like a 68 you have that spacer in the uh behind that flex plate housing you have that um the hole you take that bracket off or just get it loose you have that space to go in into the torque converter bolts uh there's 12 torque converter bolts there and the next thing that we have to do here is our drive shafts um either with the bracket or you would have to get them custom-made okay guys uh we have our cross member harness ready uh connected to our unit we have the unit um we're going to go ahead and start working on the torque converter bolt it's just like the 68 and after the torque converter bolts what we do is our drive shaft and then we should get this guy on the road uh sometime soon thank you guys for your time [Music] you

Channel: ATS Diesel Performance

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Id: Jmy8C2KmGnQ

Length: 49min 39sec (2979 seconds)

Published: Wed Mar 09 2022