How to Build the FT Corsair - Master Series // BUILD

hey friends welcome to flitetest I'm Josh I'm John and this is really special today we're gonna be showing you how to build the first of our master series and this is an F for your Corsair something that we never dreamed would be even possible it was designed by this amazing individual here John John what's some of the experiences that people gonna have in building a master series airplane on this particular airplane you're gonna be doing a lot of curves so you can see the wings here got a nice smooth surface the fuselage again is nice and rounded there's gonna be a lot of stuff that you've already done carry on the tail section but on the main wings and fuselage you're gonna see some new stuff that's awesome now John not only designed a whole different way of working with foam but those techniques are gonna carry from plane to plane so don't be intimidated by this follow along just like it's your first build first time working with foam and don't think just because you're new pilot that this is an advanced flyer be still fly just as easy as planes before and as always we're gonna be giving you free plans or you can choose to support us by going to our store getting speed boat kits in the nude electronics now this plane is a swappable and it will fly of a power pack see we're coming out with our new radial motor line and if you choose that radio line you're gonna have three cell and four self capabilities which is going to give us a wide envelope of speed and performance let's get our materials in order and we'll get started the first thing we're going to do are the wings I've popped everything out and I've got everything laid out and it's best to go ahead and inventory everything before you get started so what I've got here cuz I've got the upper wing skin part two of the upper wing skin the lower wing skin you're gonna have two spars made out of foam and then two spars made out of wood and then over here everything is mirrored you're also going to have a wing tip on either side these are the spacers you'll have two four too large on each side too small on each side these are the servo doublers make sure you've got everything before you get started where I like to start is on the top of the wing so I want to move everything off to the side and you can start by peeling this way at all so what we're going to do is we're going to add an airfoil shape and the way that's done is I'd bring it to the edge of the table and I have a firm pressure with my right hand I'm dragging it down with my left and it's happening is I'm crushing the other side of this foam and you can already see that I've got a very slight airfoil just dragging it down and I've only begun crushing the foam from here to here so each time I drag it down I move my hand if it's just a little bit until I get all the way to the end of the way now it's got a nine say getting the right pressure is critical in order to figure out exactly how much pressure you need to apply when making an airfoil you can take a piece of scrap that you've worn one side off and you put it on the edge of a table and you put just a light to medium hand pressure and you're you know you've got the right pressure when you've got a small indention if you're not using enough pressure you're still going to be able to form that airfoil it's just going to take a little bit longer if you're pressing too hard instead of having a nice smooth airfoil it's you're just gonna have a bunch of flats form it just won't be quite as smooth it'll still fly fine it just won't look quite as good all right so the next step is start putting these spars together there's a long one and there's a short one the long one is the front the short one goes in the back there's also a foam spar the front foam spar has two tabs where I must start out by doing getting these foam spars glued to the wooden ones starting with the front one everything will line up very nicely I'm using quite a bit of glue do the same in the back I'm going to go ahead and form up the other side and everything again will line up very very neatly and do the same on the front one these are the spacers what I'm gonna start out by doing is just gluing these two together use quite a bit of glue kind of move it around so I've got the one spacer formed and I'm going to now mirror the other side let me do the little ones [Applause] and then I'm going to mirror that now I'm going to add the spacers there's a little knockout here and here right at the low spot of the wing what I'm going to do is I'm going to glue one here and one here we're going to start with our longer spar and we're going to glue our spacers to it you'll notice that the doublers are facing the center we're also going to do that on the outer ones be sure and allow about 45 seconds for the glue to cool before going on to the next step I've got the tab on the outside and the doubler is towards the center and one other thing to note is the rounded area goes up the same as this rounded area and same on this outer one I'm gonna glue this outer space you're on with the doubler pointing to the center so you can see here we've got the tab on the outside and the doubler is towards the center again the top will be slightly rounded the bottom will be perfectly flat give that a few seconds to cool I'm gonna flip it around and we'll do the same over here [Music] tab to the outside doubler to the inside give this 45 seconds to cool down before moving on to the next step alright now we're going to add this Beck's part I'm going to do is I'm going to go ahead and just fill these two cavities with hot glue and just push this together and once that glue cools down we'll come back and add a little bit more glue here at the corners for strength now you'll notice that there's a gap on either end this one's pretty small this one's pretty big that's okay now that the glue is cooled I'm going to go and add a little bit more here at the corners and do that on each side [Music] [Applause] now you can go and wipe off the excess using a scrap piece of foam now we're going to close everything up here on the ends and I'm just going to add a little bit of glue and I'm going to bend this back spar to meet up with this spacer you're going to notice that this remains straight and you're going to be getting a little bit of a curve and that's what we want alright so we're going to do the same thing on the other side I'm just going to put a little bit of glue on this spacer and I'm going to bend this rear spar to meet it again we're gonna have a slight curve right here you'll definitely want to watch your fingers right here there's a little bit of glue squirt now don't get burned like for allow about 45 seconds for the glue to cool down and then you can come back and add a little bit more at the corners for some added strength got my scrap piece of foam we're gonna wipe away the excess want to flip this around and go ahead and reinforce the corners with hot glue on this side as well move the excess we're on to the next step now we've got the spar assembly complete we're going to go ahead and add the upper wing skin I've already added a little bit of an airfoil to this side so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take a barbecue skewer and I'm gonna pop these little rectangles out these rectangles will line up to these little tabs at the front of the wing spar assembly I'm gonna go ahead I'm gonna add and it's actually more than what we're gonna need and I'll get to why I'm doing that here shortly it's gonna be your aileron this I'm gonna go ahead and add some glue I want this solid so I'm going to add a little line of glue there and let that cool for 45 seconds or so now we're working on the second section of the upper wing skin and what I'm going to start out by doing is flipping it where there's a score line facing upward we're going to remove the larger section of paper what I'm gonna do so I'm going to run my exacto knife right down this score not cutting all the way through I'm going to break this and I'm gonna put a little bit of glue in here [Applause] if you have glue that squirts out take a piece of scrap and just remove the excess now we're going to do is we're going to form an airfoil we're going to do it exactly the same way we did on this first section I'm drawing backwards with my left hand applying slight pressure with my right hand okay I'm moving my hand left and right very slowly and now we have a nice airfoil shape and again the actual shape isn't too critical the goal is to simply get the foam on the bottom side good and crushed glued this minute go that's had plenty of time to dry and now what we're gonna do is we're gonna add this top skin to the spar sembly so I'm going to start out filling these with glue and I'm gonna run a real heavy bead all the way down starting with this large spacer I'm completely covering the top of each spar as well as this small spacer here on the end and I'm using a lot of glue that gives me plenty of time to get everything in position the first thing I'm gonna do is I'm going to line up these tabs those little cavities now and then do is I'm going to apply pressure evenly across the entire wing I'm holding the leading edge down and keeping real even pressure or the glue on top of the spars this meeting the wing itself you'll want to hold this probably a minute minute and a half I want to make sure that nothing shifts and so I want to make sure I don't want to take any chance of having that glue still allow a little bit of play between parts now we're going to add the second section what I'm wanting to do is to shingle this top layer of paper over this layer right here so we're going to kind of come in high and then push down and that fit isn't too bad you might have to bend this a little bit more you might have to straighten it up just a little bit after I test-fit it I'm gonna go back and I'm gonna add glue now I'm gonna put most of my glue along this bottom edge I'm gonna be adding glue to the bottom edge on many many steps and the reason that I do that is whenever I shove parts together that glue is going to want to score it out I always want to squirt towards the inside I want to try to keep all excess glue off the surface I'm going to come in pretty high and push down get a little bit of glue squirting out and that's alright we try to minimize it as much as we can I'm pressing the two parts together if I see a little gap I'm reaching in from the bottom and pressing up and in the front here I'm pressing down you'll just have to make a little minor adjustments as that glue cools off give this a full minute to dry now you may notice that things are not stuck really really well at this point and that's okay I'm stuck here but I've got a pretty good gap back here that's okay we're going to come back in just a minute flip this upside down and add glue from the bottom the first application of glue just kind of gets things lined up a little bit and so I'm pretty happy with that I'm going to come back and I'm gonna add a bead of glue right here at this scene after applying glue to the underside I'm going to flip it back over and apply pressure between the two halves I'm really watching that scene to make sure it's good and clean I may have to bend one side up or push one side down definitely give it a full minute to cool off now I'm gonna do the same thing on the other side I'm going to add a pretty healthy bead of glue right along that line to fill that gap and likely did appear on leading edge we're going to do the same on the trailing edge I'm going to push the two together and that's looking really good now normally whenever we begin forming something over the edge of a table we're just moving foam in one direction on this wingtip we're going to be creating a airfoil shape this way but we're also creating a taper this way so foam doesn't normally like to do that do this so we're gonna spend a little bit of extra time crushing it in multiple directions so into it the same ways before you're not going to look at the palm of your hand on there but you can put a couple fingers across and just draw it down again I am I'm pulling with my left hand I'm applying pressure with my right hand I'll flip it around and you can see so far I'm just going in one one direction now what I'm going to do is I'm gonna kind of roll it this way just a little bit and then I'm going to kind of turn a diagonal it just makes foam form up a little bit easier okay now what I'm going to do is I'm going to match this up I'm going to match us up beginning at the leading edge and you can see that I've got a nice clean seam up to about where my finger is so for here all the way the leading edge we've got a good snug fit now I'm going to do is I'm going to apply glue again I'm going to be applying glue towards the bottom of this piece because I want that glue whenever I press these two pieces together I want that glue to squirt down not up and now I'm going to do is I'm going to shingle as I put this together I'm going to shingle this piece of paper over this piece of paper if you happen to shingle this piece of paper over this piece of paper that's okay just whatever you do on this side also continue on this side now you're going to notice we've got a good tight fit here but we've got a great big gap right here and that's okay definitely give this a good minute to dry you saw that I apply two really healthy B to glue on that edge all right now we're ready to close this gap up make sure you do not apply glue on this straight edge right here because your aileron needs to be able to work freely what I'd like to do to keep the build nice and clean because I'm going to flip this upside down and I've got this piece of foam is closer to me even this piece of foam so what I'm going to do is I'm going to apply glue to this piece because when I scissor this down it's going to push that glue this way that that's going to keep your build a little bit cleaner flip it over and I'm just gonna put a little pressure on there close that gap again I'm jingling this piece of paper over this piece of paper you're gonna notice a little bit of puckering right here dad is just gonna happen sometimes you can minimize it by working that foam over the edge of a table a little bit more but sometimes it's just going to be created no matter how much you form I'm going to add a bevel to this aileron and what I like to do is using a straight edge I have about 3/16 of an inch between the edge of the ruler and the edge of the the aileron and you can do this with an exacto knife you can also do this with large utility razor but what I'm going to do is keeping my fingers back keeping my fingers spread out wide I'm going to angle my knife back and what I want to do is I want a nice clean movement side-to-side I don't want to move the knife this way I don't want to move the knife this way I just need a nice clean movement from side to side push through I'm going to draw it side to side and one other thing that I want to point out and I didn't do right here is I usually twist by knife slightly clockwise and that prevents that from happening make sure that you don't cut the paper hinge when you're cutting this bevel this takes a little bit of practice there's plenty of scrap foam supplied with the kit so if you're not comfortable cutting a bevel just go practice on scrap cut you find all five or six pieces try this by the time you do a dozen you'll be an expert if you accidentally cut through that paper you can always flip it over add a piece of tape and it'll be just fun with the aileron open you're going to add a line a glue from one end to the other and then you're going to use a piece of scrap to immediately wipe it away allow about a minute for that glue to cool leaving the aileron fully open now we're going to do the same thing on the other side again we're just going to feel this large circular table and before I form I'm gonna go ahead and add B to glue right here and let that cool for a few minutes or so just like on the other side we've got the score up and we're going to tear this large section off you can use your exacto knife and run down that score and we're going to apply a small amount of glue inside that crack if you've got excess you can just wipe it away using some scrap now that that's had time to cool we're going to go ahead and pull them up this first wing skin using the same process as before drawing down with my left hand applying pressure with my right hand and again I'm just moving my hands left to right right to left why you can crush this we've got a nice even airfoil that looks nice and we're going to do the same thing on this second section I am going to eyeball that quickly they line up pretty good I'm going to use my barbecue skewer to remove these two clamp these two cavities now we're gonna apply this second wing skin and just like before we're gonna clean out these cavities and we're gonna go along the tops of these spars there's a very heavy be too glue as I mentioned earlier we definitely want a very heavy bead of glue this gives us lots and lots and lots of time to move everything around I'm also going to put a little bit of glue in these cavities was a little bit tricky lining this stuff up again just a gentle pressure definitely definitely want the leading edge of the wings to be lying flat on the table you don't want to press too hard because you want to be able to keep that nice gentle curve if you press too hard you might get some hard lines here and here or the smaller Center now we're going to add this second piece and when I test fit it you can see that it's arched up just a little bit too much so I'm gonna kind of flatten things out just a bit and with a little bit of pressure I've got a nice clean joint alright I've got my test fit yeah I'm going to pull this off and I'm going to add beauty glue to this lower edge using a pretty healthy bead oops a slipped little excess glue there I'm gonna pipe that away and again I'm gonna shingle this top layer of paper over this edge I need to slide it backwards just in a bit and heavy be the glue allows me a lot of time to get this exactly in position I've got this finger right here pushing down because this one this this wants to pop up and with my left finger here I'm pushing this down I want that loose and what that seemed to be nice and clean you'll definitely want to allow a full minute for the glue to cool here all right now that we've got that glued you're going to come back and we're gonna glue up these seams from the bottom again pretty healthy bead of glue you know I really taper the glue off as I get right up here to the leading edge I don't want to have a bunch of excess glue squirting out get this back over pressing the two halves together if I need to make any more little minor adjustments to make that seam look good I do it now and do that by adding a little bit of pressure on the right side or a little bit of pressure on the left side as needed if you mess up this seam one thing that I've done is I've taken a piece of scrap paper that I've torn off the bottom and I've cut a long skinny strip and I've simply stretched it across here and just put a light layer of hot glue stretch that across and just keep pressure on the right and on the left and once that cools even if you had glue scored out and it's really ugly that completely cleans it up I'm gonna add glue to the trailing edge seen here a little bit of excess glue squirt now wipe that away and I'm just gonna push these two together apply a little bit of pressure right here because this is up just a little bit too high this scene can be taped but I would recommend just holding with your hands if you hold it with your hands you're able to see this scene the whole time if you glue things up squeeze it together and put a piece of tape across there there might be a gap there that will be hidden by the tape now we're gonna do the other wing tip and we're going to line it up we're going to tear off the bottom layer start working that or the edge of the table first one wing and then work it diagonally or long ways and just keep working it eyeball where to apply glue so it's it's nice and tight right here to about here so I'm going to apply glue again favoring the bottom side but come up from the bottom so I can shovel this piece of paper over this piece [Applause] and then we're gonna hold it for a minute now we'll close up the rest of this wingtip again you'll notice that this piece of foam is higher in this piece of foam I'm always going to apply glue to the piece of foam closest to me and we're going to go right along the edge and when I scissor that close that's going to shove all that glue to the inside finally we need to put a bevel on our other aileron and do this just like before so I'm going to plunge my exacto knife through being careful not to cut the paper hinge I'm drawing it to the side with slight lockwise pressure that gives us a nice clean bevel and that looks good so now I'm going to apply a pretty healthy bead of glue right along that seam and then using a piece of scrap I'm going to quickly wipe that away I'm gonna leave my ego run fully open and allow that to cool for 3045 seconds this is our bottom wing skin and this is where the servo goes I'm going to remove this little rectangle now rather than throwing it away I'm going to put it off to the side we're going to use this in a later step now we're going to do the lower wing skin and we need to add a doubler there's going to be an outline and you're just going to line this doubler up to that outline and now what we're going to do is we're going to remove paper and we only need to remove paper to about here if you get it this far or you get it this far it's okay now what we're gonna do is we're gonna lay the top of the wing over the bottom of the wing and all you need to do is you need to make sure that that paper is torn just past this scene now the way I'm lining stuff up side to side is this aileron needs to be able to be free to go up and down so if the lower skin is too far this way it'll hit focus too far this way it will hit so we want that right in the center now what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a barbecue skewer and I want to put a little indention all right here and I'm also going to do one at the trailing edge of the wing where that seam is so you can see where I've made a mark with that barbecue skewer right there with that seam is we're gonna set the upper wing assembly off to the side just for a second and I've got these two points agreed with a barbecue skewer I'm going to lay this over the edge of a table and I'm actually gonna apply a little bit more pressure than what I'd done whenever we form the airfoils all right and now what I'm gonna do is I'm just going to kind of rock this back and forth and I'm only working an area about this wide if the curvature isn't as clean and neat as some of these others it's okay this is a little bit difficult to do down lay this like that and I'm going to lay this here on top that looks pretty good it doesn't have to be all the way up we'll add a little bit of glue later and that'll that'll keep that closed so now what we need to do is we're going to glue the lower wing skin to this upper assembly now here's what I'm watching with aligning the upper and lower wing skins I want these two edges to come together exactly and so that'll give me my alignment forward and backwards what I'm going to do is I'm going keep this pinched and I'm going to move my ale along so even though my position is good front to back side to side I need to slide this down just a little bit and now that aileron is free now that we know how the alignment works we're going to add a very healthy bead of glue along this spar I'm also going to do it along this large spacer put a lot of glue on there good thing I'm going to do is I'm going to add a real healthy bead of glue on the leading edge of this lower wing skin I'm only going to apply glue up to where we've got this bin gonna flip this upside down I'm first going to align that leading edge we're just going to give this position forward and backwards I'm gonna flip it over really quickly looks like I need to move it to the side just a little bit okay I'm gonna flip it back and everything looks aligned so now it's just a matter of just having good even pressure it's no problem to do this by yourself definitely want to give this a minute and a half to dry now that everything's glued together we're going to turn our attention to the wing tip so there's just a little gap right there and what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna squirt a little bit of glue in there and check together and I'm gonna put tape on this I've got about four inches of tape I want to make sure that tape stays good and stuck every once in a while I'll work on something I'll come back and one of the edges of the pieces of tape has popped loose you're gonna notice this lower edge is a little bit longer than the top that's okay we'll come back and trim that sometimes wings aren't perfectly aligned so we just left this a little bit long while that's cooling we can flip this upside down and we're going to squirt a little bit of glue right in here and just hold down for about 45 seconds to a minute now we're gonna finish gluing up the leading edge I'm gonna go in here and put a real healthy bead of glue right along that top edge and I'm gonna fold this up now there's gonna be a gap that's gonna be closed up with a piece of tape and pull it tight here now that we've got this leading edge all the way glued you need to get some glue between the spar and the lower wing skin there is going to be a very large gap and the reason that I had the leading edge done first is because if we would have glued the spars to the lower wing skin we might have had alignment issues right here so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna hold my wings vertical and I'm just gonna drip glue down along the sides of the spar I'm actually do both spars and we're seeing a little bit of glue underneath between the spoiler and the lower skin then we're going to gently push that closed give this a full minute and a half because you're probably quite a bit of glue down there the more glue you use the longer it takes to cool and the last step on the wing is we're going to close up this last section one little blue inside there and hold it close if you got the piece of tape and II buy a piece of tape and we're ready for the next side all right go ahead and do the opposite side again we're going to start with a doubler match a double our up with the outline and we're gonna tear off again about this much paper [Music] like we did on the other side I'm going to line this lower wing skin first thing I'm gonna do is line up this leading edge and I'm going to look at where my aileron goes up and down looks like I've got good clearance on either side I'm gonna mark with the barbecue skewer right where that seam is line those two marks up you made this barbecue skewer and just bend it over the edge of a table like before we're just working in an area about this wide [Music] check alignment real quick this time I've got the bottom side up make it a slight adjustment left or right because we use so much glue we still have time to move stuff around that looks good right there definitely allow at least a minute and a half of the glue cools if you're afraid this leading edge isn't gonna close up the way you like you can put a ruler along the edge and that'll give you good even pressure and make a really good scene [Music] [Music] all right I'm gonna go ahead add some glue between the lower skin and the spars do that on both the front and the back hold that closed and lastly we're just going to close up the trailing edge of the wing and apply tape before installing your servos be sure and Center them there's a link below that will give you instructions on how to do that if you're not sure how we're going to go ahead and install servos it's gonna be a little bit tricky to run these wires instead of running the servo wire right between the spars we've got a spacer right here and so what we're going to have to do is we're going to have to run the wire on the backside of the spar so in order to get that wire fish through what we're going to do is take a screwdriver or just a pointy tool of some sort and you're gonna punch through the spa you're gonna create a little opening side-to-side and I've taken a push rod and we've bent it to create a little hook we're going to fish that through the hole we just made we're going to fold that servo wire over hook that twist and we're going to pull that through all right watch us through pull the connector through good and go ahead and add a little drop of glue on either side set that so really go ahead and make connection here and this is wide open we're going to feed this wire through and here it comes and then we'll do the same on the other side we're just going to go in through the back create a slot hook through make a loop with the servo wire flat make sure that your servos are pointed the same way drop in the backdrop blue in the front set those in add the connector we're just going to snake it through like we did on the first side [Applause] I'm going to add a Y and by now all of our glue is had time to cool you're going to notice when I pull the tape off I'm going to killing it halfway off and the reason I do that is I don't want to keep this piece of tape and tear it up and pull the paper with it so I'm only going to go to the scene do the same thing on the top always pull your tape from the back towards the same [Music] be sure and give your wings a final inspection make sure that everything is closed up looks like I missed one here the squirt of glue in there and like I did on the other side I'm going put a pretty long piece of tape across there I use a longer piece of tape if I don't instantly want one of these two possibilities then I'll have two big gaps now that we've got the wires installed we're going to take those two little rectangles that I told you to save and we're going to glue them right here and that's just going to kind of stiffen things up in there [Applause] you're gonna put this piece just off to the side of that little cutout placement isn't completely critical but you definitely don't want to block that little notch it could be a little further this way and it won't get hurt if it's not quite square nothing's hurt so now we're going to add this spacer to the other side as well glue on both sides again we're gonna put that just off to the side of that notch and just squeeze and hold let it cool for about 45 seconds but the next part of the video josh is gonna walk you through installing push rods so John has done an awesome job at this wing we're gonna go ahead and show you how to put the push rods in and the first thing we're going to do if you haven't already we're gonna Center up our servos and we're going to install our servo arms perpendicular to the hinge line on our aileron once you have that in go ahead and take your screw and put it in don't neglect the step because your flight characteristics are only as good as your controls for our servos the shortest servo screw is going to be the one that's going to lock down the arm so our next step we're gonna go and take our z bin and we're going to pass it through the furthest hole on a control horn and notice that we haven't glued our control horns yet so we can always remove these I'm gonna go and take my thumb and I'm gonna mark just on the closest side of the hole as you see right here when I grip this with my pliers I'm going to bend this straight up towards me do a quick check to make sure everything lines up nice and it does next step I'm going to go ahead and grab my pliers we'll go about two millimeters in I'm gonna bend this out towards the wingtips this is gonna create what we call a modified Z Bend once we're happy with it we can cut it now don't worry if you have any difficulties or maybe you made it too long or too short you have plenty of extra push rod material go ahead and make another one so notice we have included in our control horn we're gonna grab this pop this out in its entirety next we're gonna past our push rod through the bottom of the servo arm if these the pliers and just kind of rotate this up and then now we can go ahead and push our control horn right back in and we're just going to confirm that nothing is moved our servo arm is parallel to our hinge line and I control horn with the holes over the hinge line is nice and neutral once you're happy with that you can go ahead and take a bead of glue put it right down in and press it in place make sure you give this plenty of time to dry so you have a nice strong controlling we're gonna repeat the exact same process now on the other side now the wing is done and it's time to move on to the fuselage the fuselage skin consists of one two three four five six seven pieces make sure you have all those located the former's there's gonna eat one is going to be doubled up and you're going to have one two three four five six of those now I want to show you something on the former's the first two are exactly the same size the second two same size third same size when we get to the fourth you're going to notice that one is larger and what is smaller this one they're going to be the same size and then this last one one is going to be smaller than the other we also have canopy sections this is going to be one section here's another and then the last section of the canopy is actually built into the fuselage skin we're doing the fuselage make sure that you have got lots and lots of tape as this thing comes together it's going to be completely covered in blue tape I'm just using just a blue masking tape that sticks good but I don't have to worry about delaminating whenever I peel it off use ordinary painters tape it works great for this first piece we're going to be doing is this little skinny one it doesn't matter which side you pull off and the way I do it is I just run it over the edge of the table much like I do the larger components it's a little harder because you're not using the palm of your hand you're just kind of using your fingertips it won't be quite as uniform as the larger components but that's okay as long as the inside of that foam gets crushed it'll curve really nicely I'm going to apply a small amount of glue and I'm going to shingle one side under together and it doesn't matter allow about 45 seconds for the glue to cool and we can move on to the next one now we're move on to the next section it doesn't matter which side you pull off and we do the same thing as we did on the other we're just going to draw it over the edge of table you can kind of see we've got a little bit of bandits now that comes together really nicely I'm going to apply a small amount of glue and I'm gonna shingle one side under the other and it doesn't matter which allow about 45 seconds for the glue to cool and we can move on to the next one moving on to the next part this one's a little wider I've got a little bit more to work with so let's Paulo my hand on this start drawing it down we're doing this the exact same way we did the wings we're just trying to get a little more curvature out of it now I'm using the same amount of pressure just may require may be necessary to go over this a few more times than you do the wing on some of these larger components in these tips together where they come together and they meet up flush I don't like it to come together like this I like these edges to come together just like that I'm going to apply a little bit of glue more towards the inside alright the next section I'm gonna have the score side up there's a score here we want that facing up we're gonna remove this large section once you remove the paper to look like this and then we're going to do the same thing as the others [Music] it feels pretty good still feels just a little bit stiff right here so I'm going to work just the edge if you have one of these pop loose it's okay we'll get a reattach to your shortly that comes together nicely the two edges are good and flush as these pieces get bigger we're gonna tape them to get harder and harder to hold heavy bead of glue favoring the inside a dab just a little bit and shingle one underneath the other and put my thumb right there there's no glue squirting out so I'm not worried about getting burned and I'm gonna run a piece of tape across that and I'm just kind of rounding things out you'll have some little flat spots along the way and there we go the final shape isn't critical the former's will really help get that final shape as we finish up the fuselage okay on the next section first thing we're going to do is we're going to glue this up it's a pretty healthy bead of glue and I'll just put a roll the tape there kind of weight that down I'm going to do the same thing on this next section well these two are cooling we're going to move on to this one this is the most challenging piece of the entire build I've got it where this is pointing to the left you're going to notice two sets of lines near the center you're going to notice two sets of lines that are offset this is the side we want to peel so make sure that your part is in this position before you peel the paper away [Music] now for starters I'm going to create a little bit of a bend right down the center I'm only working an area about an inch and a half wide and the reason I'm doing this is if you look at the shape of this Foreman right now we're forming this area which has a lot of curvature these sides are relatively flat and then about right here and about right here is where this wraps around so we're going to spend quite a bit of time forming an area here forming an area here in forming an area here now the edge of this table is fairly round and so it's gonna get us part of the way to accomplishing a curve that we're wanting to get it's not going to get us all the way so for starters we're just gonna get things bit just a little bit and then I'm going to go down to here and watch this flip it around do the same no those this is still really really stiff and to get these edges together it's gonna be very very difficult so a line is a trick not too long ago that really helps with these really really tight bends it's just an ordinary cutting mat they put right up on the edge of a table instead of it being rounded this is fairly sharp by comparison I'll take that I'll stop working those same areas again and that really crushes the phone once that foam is crushed it's a lot easier to form into the shape we're trying to get if you don't have a cutting mat handy all you need is a good 90-degree edge sometimes counter tops have that if you don't have anything else a long ruler taped on either end will work it's not ideal but it'll still give you a 90-degree edge to form over as I work the material towards what will be the seam I'm kind of bending it flip it over and do the same thing and I'd say it's about 3/8 of an inch or so I'm just taking it just standing it so we've got quite a bit of shape in there but it still doesn't want to go together real well so what we're gonna do at this point and I'm gonna tear off some pieces of tape about eight to 10 inches and I'll need two or three of them I'm gonna roll this like a newspaper and I'm gonna put a piece of tape around it now it doesn't matter which way you roll it because we're gonna unroll it here in a little bit and then turn around and roll it the opposite way what we're doing is kind of training this foam to do what we want so foam stays like this for 20 or 30 minutes when we come back and we remove the tape it's still going to want to spring open a little bit but then we're gonna roll it up like a newspaper the opposite way now we're going to move back to these two sections they've had plenty of time to dry and you're gonna see a line right down the center you want that line up you see this side there's a little bit of a crease but no real line with a line facing up we're gonna peel the paper off the entire surface with the paper peeled off we're going to go ahead and form this up this section folds over just like this so really we're we're done from here to here that just leaves this little strip this little strip is going to end up closing together in right now I can feel that that just doesn't want to close so that just tells me I need to do a little bit more for me [Music] those now two go together with very little effort that's what we need have a piece of tape ready heavy layer glue towards the center dab dab shingle and we're going to hold it this will need to cool about 45 seconds long once again there is a small score line right there we want that facing up we're going to tear these suckers off anyone do the same thing as the other parts I am spending most of my time forming in the center section and down here in this section because again besides for the most part our little straighter then the top and in these bottom edges and those hedges are coming together without too much issue go tear off some tape then you see I'm tearing off quite a bit of tape and the reason I do that is if you get a short section of tape and one side pops loose you might have a great big gap you can always fix that gap just won't look as good [Applause] same method as before one side is always higher than the other I dab them start seeing those strings form and a shingle one side underneath and make sure you this package is even with one another I put the tape anywhere I see a nice clean seam to look really good right there so I started there all right that looks good now I'm going to move back to the last section and I'm gonna pull the tape off that you can see how this side looks like it's going right where it needs this side is still a little bit high so this time when we roll it up we're going to start with this edge slowly this off to the side for a little bit and we'll start putting all these formers together I'm starting at the back of the plane and with these two you're gonna see that one is slightly smaller than the other when you glue these together you'll definitely want this window lined up and these holes lined up avoid putting glue around the holes these need to be completely clear so that the straw can pass through it for the control rods if you do end up getting glue in there it's not the end of the world we can take a barbecue skewer punch it through and you'll be just fine moving towards the nose of the aircraft the next two are going to be exactly the same size again keep glue back from the holes and make sure those holes line up and the windows line up so move forward the next two I like the very first one we did one of them is smaller than the other there are no holes you just have a window make sure those windows are exactly lined up the next two they're exactly the same size and don't do what I did and a wipe away the glue so it doesn't get in that hole even though I just smeared it right in the bottom of this is formed up by this piece I'm going to open this tear out the center let some glue in that channel watch your fingers on this step smear some glue on one side or the other and squeeze everything together watch your fingers on this step because it's a small part and that glue can squirt out and burn you last two are the same size they go together just like all the others now that all the former's are glued together we're going to go back and we're gonna peel all the tape off this one and one thing to be careful of when you're removing tape you don't want to delaminate it so I'm gonna pull it this way all right now look at that part that's no tension on my hand at all a very very light tension that comes together and does exactly what we wanted to do so I'm gonna inspect my edges and like the way that looks I don't think I need to roll it up again I want to go ahead and tear off a few pieces of tape heavy beat of glue I usually use a little bit heavier bead than what I do on the other components because this one likes to shift around a little bit so I've got good I've got a good seen with good overlap up here so on this particular part I'm going to start taping it at the top I've got a little bit of an opening down here so I'm gonna start squeezing I'm squeezing with my left hand and pushing down in the center with my ride till it seemed looks just the way I want it because we used a real heavy bead of glue still head and cool and we still have time to work all right that piece looks good now that we have all the sections of fuselage glued together and all the former's glued we're going to go ahead and start creating the fuselage I generally start at the nose of the aircraft and move backwards first thing I do is I will lay this small one this first one on top of the second one I start off by lining these twos up exactly you don't want to clock one way or the other try to get them as close as you can as long as you line these seams up everything will match up very nicely and I'm looking for a nice clean seam so it looks like I've got a nice clean seam between this vertical seam and about here so we're looking at about 25% of the entire circumference now I'm going to do is add glue to about 25% of the circumference sometimes you can do more sometimes you do less sometimes you can put glue all the way halfway around it just kind of depends on how these parts lay on top of one another so the seam is lined up here and as this glue cools and keeping my fingers out of the glue but I'm keeping those edges nice and clean now I'm going to do is start seeing how far I can glue the next section and it looks like I'll be able to do it about the midway point I'm going to pry the part open so there's a gap and I'm going to squirt just a little glue in there you don't have to get the entire circumference any spots that we miss we can go in from the back and add a little bit more glue a little bit later okay everything's coming together really nicely so again I'm gonna squeeze and create a gap come in add a little bit of glue I got a little excess on here so I'm going to wipe it away with some scraps the other reason you don't want to use a whole lot of glue is if you come in from the inside you don't want to have a whole bunch of hot glue dripping down or it'll burn your finger okay so we've got a nice clean shape there now I'm going to do make everything strong move it a real healthy beat glue all the way around [Applause] with that cool gonna grab the next section and before we connect these two pieces together I'm gonna go ahead and install the first for the former's we'll have a tick mark at the six o'clock position that tick mark will line up with the seam it's very important that that tick mark always line up with that scene there are a number of these and if you have one that's clocked incorrectly your power pot is not going to fit in the way it's supposed to sometimes these will go right in and sometimes they require a little bit of work if I were just to take and press this down right now I would be tearing away a little bit of foam and that's what I want to avoid since this part is a little bit tight up here I'm going to use an exacto knife I'm just gonna hold my exacto knife at an angle and I'm going to drag it around the perimeter and I'll show you here in just a second how much I'm taking off we're not taking off a whole lot so we're coming in not quite 45 degrees you can see that I'm only cutting through this first layer and I'm not really even getting into the second layer and let's see if I've removed enough to make this fit in here we go so that fits nicely now you can see I'm not quite clocked correctly and that's enough to kind of throw things off so I'm going to take a twist this part if you need to pull the parts out that's okay there we go now you'll also notice that I left the tape on there I don't remove the tape until I'm completely done with the fuselage if you install formers without the tape you're going to create a gap right there and that gap can be fixed but every time you add glue you risk getting excess glue all over the place so just leave the tape on there and we'll just peel it off at the end one of these pieces came off that's okay it's purely decorative we'll add that on here shortly I'm going to take and Bend these backwards and apply some glue right along the inside I'm gonna do half of them and then I'm gonna push them but not quite close that all the way what those to be kind of flared just slightly after about 45 seconds to a minute we'll do the other side if you remember we had one piece fall off right there and we'll glue that back on now we'll do the other side same as before be the glue we'll do it all with that one that fell off if you have any pieces fall off just glue it right back on now that this former is in place I'm gonna go ahead and glue this section on so just like before I'm gonna lay this piece on and it looks like that I can go almost all the way to the halfway point before I glue this in place I am going to make sure that my seam is visible down here because when I'm assembling this I always have this seam where I can watch it again it's critical that this stuff doesn't get rotated one way or the other I'm gonna add glue as much as I can right on the exposed white foam okay we're good there now we're gonna finish gluing this together I'm gonna squeeze it top and bottom that's going to give me a little bit more of a gap again I'm not worried about getting it around the entire perimeter I'm most concerned with having a nice clean seam [Music] now that I've got this glued in several places I'm going to go around the inside with a heavy bead of glue now I'm going to flip it over I'm going to go around this former with a heavy bead of glue now we're going to add the next four month so grab this section there's a small tick mark right up here at the top it's gonna line up with this long score so we're going to want it like this I'm gonna add glue line up the tick mark I'm mashing this upwards a lot I really want this thing seated against this edge and now that it's pushed down I'm going to squeeze it side to side while that cools hold this for about a minute now we'll add this small section maybe be to glue and put this right in the bottom there's a little tick mark line that up with the same now I'm gonna do is I'm gonna kind of stretch get some small gaps it's alright hold this for about 45 seconds now we're going to glue this section onto here you'll notice that this is slightly larger than this so when the two go together there's actually going to be a little bit of a lip so when we glue this on just make sure that that lip is consistent all the way around I generally put this piece on all at once it's not really critical how this one fits again I'm gonna align this seam with this one I used a pretty heavy bead of glue so I'll have plenty of time to position this and you can see this lift I'm talking about because we used a heavy b2 glue let's give it a little closer to a minute we're done shift bugs all right so I'm gonna step in for a moment real quick to show you how we're gonna go ahead and put this pot assembly together John did a great job building the cowling and we have as main fuselage piece what we want to do here is we want to give this a quick test fit to make sure that this pod slips down inside the cowling just like you see the way we're gonna make sure that this stays nice and square is where I put our attention towards the very front and make sure that this is close to being flush as possible all the way around here if you notice it's kind of a has a big gap at the top that means you're gonna have the wrong thrust angle so take your time to do a quick test fit even if you have to trim a little bit giving glue globs out of the way to make sure that it's nice and flush all the way around now when we're test-fitting everything make sure that we always keep this bottom reference line as the bottom the bottom of this is going to be the piece that you see here the shorter segment of the power pod and holder once you have that fit you can pull this out and we're just gonna put glue where we need it I'm gonna go ahead and I'm gonna focus my glue on the three sides that are gonna make contact right around those three edges then I'm going to pass this through one final time and look for alignment don't worry about that extra glue squirt now we're gonna go ahead and take a scrap piece of foam and smooth it out one thing I really like to do is after everything is dry I like to go back with another layer glue just around the seams and smooth it out once more we're gonna let this thoroughly dry and then we're gonna start preparing the front part of our fuselage to fit the cowling onto while the front portion of my caliing is drying I'm gonna go ahead and dress a couple pieces on this just to make sure everything goes really smooth first thing is is our kelvins gonna meet this top portion nice and flush in order to keep it that way we need to go ahead and trim this portion off so if we actually projected a straight line through here we'll remove the material that's gonna get in the way along with that the two bottom corners of our sleeve are gonna kind of conflict with these two areas right here so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go ahead and carve out the areas just ahead once again projecting an imaginary line just in front of that to make sure that everything slides through nice and easy all right so we'll do the top one first year what I kinda like to do is kind of hold a measuring line and see where it lifts up that's where I'm gonna remove easy way to tell that you're good is if you roll this down on the table it doesn't bump up you're nice and flush let's go ahead and put our attention also into these two corners here now when we test fit this we may want to make a little bit more removal but I'm just gonna go ahead no and I need to take most of it off now I'm just gonna go in each way okay chew out those corners this is going to give us another little spot that we can have Glee down in another little point of rigidity with these areas carved out we're gonna go ahead and give ourselves a test fit here I'm gonna go ahead and slide once again making sure that my bottom seams are on the bottom I'll slide this forward I'll just kind of use the table as my friend and what I'm looking for is to get this cowling lined up nice and neat with this back seam that you seam here that seam is gonna be our reference line to make sure that our thrust angle is consistent notice I'm not forcing anything if I have to for something most likely I need to trim something that looks really good if we're happy with the way everything looks we can go ahead and remove this just a little so now I'm going to focus my glue right inside this crevice right here on both sides and that way I'm going to slide this back in and then re-establish my thrust line notice I'm keeping my nozzle below those fins just so it doesn't make a mess they're back on the table little rocking motion doesn't wonders once we're happy with that I'm just gonna go ahead and kind of take my hands spread it around and hold this now make sure that when you squeeze in on this that you're not actually pushing the piece right back out just kind of look around make sure you're happy with the way everything looks and that looks wonderful give us about 45 seconds to dry so our kalyan and our fuselage are now one-piece but I want to make it this a little bit stronger someone wouldn't take my glue gun and I'm gonna go ahead and focus that nozzle down in there and I'm gonna just drizzled glue right over the main seams then I'm gonna come back with a scrap piece of foam and smooth it out we're gonna do this on both sides and as much of the top as we can get kind of use a scrap piece and the hot glue kind of like a paintbrush and paint our fuselage and our power pots leave all ready to go keep in mind you may have to kind of crush down your power pot a little bit cuz it's gonna be a nice snug fit I'm gonna go ahead and hand this back to John and he can help you finish off the fuselage all right now we're gonna add this warmer and I'm gonna apply glue about halfway up this rectangle up on both sides it'll light up tick marks to that crease gently pinch that closed you'll want to hold that for at least a minute there and add a little more glue on these edges that are still sticking up and will hold next we're going to move to this section we're going to go ahead and add formers again I'm leaving the tape on so when we stick the formers in it doesn't rip that apart all right so the former we're putting in is this shape this one is larger than this one we're going to put the small wing towards the back of the plane first thing I'm gonna do is line up that tick mark with the seen and we're going to see what this will fit again we don't want to push too hard we don't want to crush or deform the edges of the foam because it's kind of pear-shaped we're gonna have to squeeze on either side of that to fit in and it it seems pretty good if there's still given your little fits going in go ahead and pop it back out and we ran out a debuff like we did on an earlier one this time I'm going to cut into that that top layer as well I found especially up here at the top I definitely make sure and add some relief there because that's usually one of the areas that doesn't want to go so you can see now we've got a really good bevel we'll try fitting that in again line up that tick mark you see how that fits in there nice I've got a little bit of a gap on either side that's alright in fact that's a really good place just to add some glue squirt some in either side and I'm also going to run the bead around the top there and then apply some pressure hold this for a minute and a half hold it a lot longer than what you think cuz you definitely want this shape to hold if it pulls away from the former when we fit the part in front here there's going to be a gap and you don't want that now that this former has been glued in I'm going to add one here in the back there's two of them that are very close to the same size the one we want the two formers are the same size so we'll try test fit and this one looks really tight like on others we're going to cut a bevel see that'll go in now line my tick mark with its same now you can see then that fits in there nicely so what I'm going to do is I'm just going to drip glue through this rectangle in the front around the perimeter while that's cooling I'll grab the windshield gonna figure out which side looks the worst and in this case both sides look great so it's going to peel this one and when I take to the edge of the table and I'm gonna drag it you can kind of see that I'm using just a little bit of a circular motion as I drag it if you look at this leading edge it's always 90 degrees to the table so now starting to look like a windshield it's the feel where the foam that's being crushed on the back and it's pliable right there right here still needs a little bit of work so I'm gonna kind of move that down move it around and kind of see again where that leading edge is roughly 90 degrees to the table okay that looks pretty good so what I'm gonna do now I'm going to build the canopy let's start out by just applying heavy beauty glue towards the inside I have one a little bit higher than the other touch kind of dab dab and then shingle the paper and hold for about 45 seconds while that's cooling now we've got to get the former put inside this final section you'll notice that this one is smaller than this one with a smaller one towards the rear let's test fit it find that tick mark up with the scenes pretty close but I'm afraid I'm going to be messing up a little bit of this foam and so I'm gonna bevel this smaller warmer just a little bit it looks like I'm mostly just going to need to do it at the top the others I've gone all the way around but we're really really close so I'm just going to bevel it here at the top now that I've got that beveled I'll put a little glue all the way around the edge on the inside line my tick mark with my seen and push that in now we're gonna glue the other side of the canopy be the glue along the inner edge I'm going to push down right here because I twist this around and dab and shingle just like I did on the other side I mean you'll definitely want to hold this for a minute or more more there's quite a bit of tension on this you'll definitely want to make sure that glue has had plenty of time to cool before you let go now we're going to add the final section of the canopy just this little thumbnail piece right here peel one side or the other it doesn't matter and we're just going to roll this over the edge of a table I'm going to test fit this piece and now looks pretty good all right so before John goes ahead and puts these two fuselage pieces together we're gonna go ahead and put the push rods in what we're gonna do is we're just gonna line up these two dots that you see right here and I just like to kind of put a little crease and I'm gonna go ahead and make a light little crease right through there once we have our slip done we're gonna go ahead and put the coffee stirrer right through the push rod like you see here now we can go ahead and need to take our push rod we can push it through and let naturally just kind of find that hole like you see here now I can go ahead and take the straw and guide it through little rocking motion should pop right through the hole so we now have a push rod that can go all the way through and can even pop through this section here and guide all the way to the front you can pull this out and do it to the same to the other side all right so here are the two index marks on the other side of our fuselage we're gonna do the same process we're just going to go ahead and put a light crease down through here we're going to take our coffee stirrer we'll pass it through all the way up to the zband and now we can go ahead and we can push our push rod through and we'll just kind of find that hold we have in our formers pass it through and add the coffee strip do the work and take away that friction so at this point both of our push rods will easily pass through the fuselage I'm gonna hand this back to John he can show you how to put the fuselage together now we're going to connect the two sections a fuselage together you can see we've we've passed the coffee stirrers from one section to the other I'm gonna go ahead and push these things together and see how they fit everything seems to line up okay in the event that one of them is off side to side or up and down you can go in with a tool and make one of these holes a little bit bigger so the things so that this closes up a little neater so I'm going to do pull this out just a little bit and apply glue all the way around and make this scene look as good as I can then we put a piece of tape across there now we're going to connect these two sections together before we do that you need to add a little bit of a bevel on the inside of the canopy so that it fits nicely together so I've cut a pretty big sliver on the inside of the canopy now I'm going to check the fit and you can see that it's nice and snug we'll push it together here and just a minute check the other side and that will close up nicely I'm go ahead and tape the canopy as well just to keep that for you break it open and apply a whole bunch of glue all the way around the edge [Applause] we want to watch that tick mark and make sure it lines up with that scene if everything is built right you really don't need glue around the canopy unless you've got something sticking up after everything cools we'll go ahead and remove all the tape and I'll show you how to smooth out some of these seams that don't look as good as the others also there's going to be spots that are a little bit higher on one side than the other I'll show you how to smooth those out a little bit now that the glue is all set we can remove tape again when you're pulling tape only pull it to the scene don't go across it cuz you might see laminate now we're going clean up the seams between the fuselage sections you'll notice right here on top normally we like to shingle one piece of paper under the other well it might start out high on this side but by the time it wraps around to the top it's below and it kind of just forms the this kind of send perfection and so if you get a brand-new razor blade and you go right along that seam that's gonna do is you'll cut away part of that you won't have a completely perfect seam but it's gonna be really close I'm pressing hard enough to cut the paper I'm not pressing hard enough to cut the glue and I'm just going to go around this a couple times we've cleaned up a lot of that but still this side is just slightly higher than this side kind of work this with your thumb you'll feel that foam giving way I'm using enough pressure that I can feel the foam giving way but you don't want to press so hard that you're going to punch through the foam or create a wrinkle my recommendation would be start on the bottom that way while you're getting the feel for the pressure if you do actually make a mistake and you put a little tiny crinkle in it it's going to be hidden down below also I'm going to be looking for any delamination and if I come across in delamination don't spit a little drop of glue all right this this side looks pretty good I'm gonna move over just a little bit do the same thing there we go that's looking pretty clean next we're going to move on to the tail let's start there very 80s out do that on both sides with a score up we're gonna remove paper here and here okay when I'm applying glue I'm keeping everything away from this score at 45 seconds we'll get it we'll keep pressure on the wrist now I'm going to fold the elevator all the way back and like we've done before draw my exacto knife straight across a nice clean double check in to make sure I didn't accidentally go too deep when that happens we can just put a piece of tape on here with the elevator still folded over I'm gonna put a line of glue all the way across one side and with a scrap piece of foam and wipe away all that glue do the same on the other side and white boy does this give it about 30 seconds before you move your elevator and you're done now we're going to cut the slot with a horizontal stabilizer to fit in you're gonna see some small marks at the back of the fuselage I kind of play connect the dots you see two little marks there on the end what we're going to do is we're going to use our exacto we're going to cut from this mark which is closest to the center to this mark right here I'm going to use a straight edge to help me it's a little bit awkward holding the straight edge so I'm just gonna lightly draw a line I'll go over that line three or four times so I cut all the way through now we'll connect the tick mark right here we're going to connect this one with this one right here now that piece of pop right out I'm gonna do the same on the other side we'll start at the top again again we're going to this top tick mark to the one that's closest to Center and a straight edge light line once you go over two or three times you can probably get rid of the ruler and just follow the line you've started here we go now we've kind of slot cut all the way through and we're gonna be able to begin to slide a horizontal stabilizer in it's a little tight you might want to remove a little bit of material because you don't want to tear this that feels a little bit snug so I'm going to go and remove a little bit more material before I push that through remove a little material from the top now see we removed enough to allow that to slide in feels pretty good I'm not gonna glue it in at this point because once we get the wings on we might have run into some real minor clocking issues along the way and one side may be higher than another and we may have to cut a little bit more relief and twist it this way or cut a relief over here and twist it that way now we're gonna do the vertical stabilizer and we're going to be using a barbecue skewer and I'm going to have this barbecue skewer stick out about an inch and a half it'll fit kind of inside this little channel right here so I'm going to kind of Mark it with my thumb I'm gonna take my exacto knife and I'm gonna roll and as I'm rolling I've got pressure on my exacto knife this cutting all the way around then you can just break it off and that works really well so now I'm going to do is I'm going to tear off rest of this foam and I'm going to take that barbecue skewer okay that looks good and we're going to glue it in place I'm gonna do is I'm going to put a light layer of glue kind of smear it on this paper I'm just gonna take and roll this now I have a nice rounded edge nice and clean looking now you'll notice that the vertical stabilizer doesn't swing free we're going to take an exacto knife and we're going to make this cut right here it comes scored from the factory the concern is it's going to form a weak spot right here so it's going to ship to you but this is a score but you need to make it into a cup before we attach this to the fuselage I'm going to swing this open and we're in a bevel it just like we've done before get the right angle and we're going to draw the knife across and you can see where my knife went up the problem I had was I didn't have clockwise pressure so this time I'm going to do it again with a little bit of clockwise pressure and now we got a good dollar take a bead of glue apply it and then wipe it away there are two small marks on the top of the receiver one here and one up here this represents your centerline what we're gonna do is we're going to put back edge right up against this edge right here right on that slow line I'm sure the fuselage the barbecue skewer push straight down now that the skewer is through the fuselage I'm going to swing the whole assembly off to one side and draw a line straight down the middle lift it up just a little bit drop it down and let's let that cool for about a minute our next step is to build the sleeve that the power pot is gonna slide into in the front of the nose to do this we're gonna go ahead and take the piece that looks like this and we're also going to go ahead and weed out the channels that you see here once everything's Wiis out we're going to go ahead and do a quick test fold remember that a means that the side plate is above the bottom plate and the glue this properly we're gonna keep the side plate firm against the table and we're gonna go ahead and focus our glue right on the bottom of the side plate let's hold this up 90 degrees and give it about 45 seconds and then do the same process on the other side once again we always like to try to focus the glue where it's gonna give us most of our strength and in this case on the 8th floor it's gonna be on the bottom of the side plate so I play for EM yes table rotate 90 degrees and hold it for 45 seconds all right one last fold here we're gonna go ahead just do a quick test it just looked a little bit of piece of paper around here just to kind of finish off that seam and give us some extra rigidity everything looks really good so this case we're gonna go ahead and put glue on both these top pieces here and here just fold this up and hold so next step now this is a Bilt we're gonna go ahead and pass this through to the front this is gonna be the front portion and it's actually going to key in to the section that you see right here now unfortunately I made a mistake I put the servos in before I supposed to which caused me not to be able to have enough clearance to pass the strip so I went ahead and remove one so I can do so we're gonna be showing you this video how to do it in the right order alright some passes on through it's gonna have a little resistance just for that bottom sheet cow meets with it we'll go ahead and reached in and take that little ring that kind of gives these fins their angle I'm gonna go ahead and crush it down in the two corners this will push up against the pod and get a little extra strength but right now it's resisting it then we can just rock it through and push it all the way forward should be a nice tight fit so don't force it take your time and it will slide right into place once we push this through you're gonna see that this actually notches a beautiful Eve nice and flush right with the top this gives us our thrust angle it also gives a nice secure fitting for our power pod to slide in now keep in mind our power pots actually have slide and inverted in this and you'll see that in a few short steps in the meantime once we're happy with this we can go ahead and we can put a bead of glue right around the rim and then also take the bead of glue right along the inside that you see here so we went ahead and we put glue around our seams smeared a month of scrap piece of foam our power pot sleeve is now done we're ready to move on to our next step so this part is getting exciting here we're gonna go ahead and get to put control surfaces and get them moving with these servos here first thing we want to do is we want to get the servo centered as you see here now if you haven't sent them servos before we have a great video on that link below so we got our servo centered we're also going to use our two long push rods that are included with the kit if you're scratch-building and not doing this for a kit we do have a link down below as well where you can get a whole pack of these they work great on scratch builds so the first step we're going to do before we go ahead and pass our push rods to the coffee stirrers is we're going to take a barbecue skier and we're going to hook it through the rear bulkhead so everything lines up real nice there's two now with a little twisting motion we can go ahead and pass our push rods through our coffee stirrers and with your two fingers go ahead and guide the push rod until it lines up with the hole and then pass it through I'd do this on both sides with your rudder push rod you may actually find that you have to push down a little bit to get the push rod to level out and then I'll pass straight through the hole no problem you shouldn't feel any resistance at all on either one of your push rods with our push rods pass through let's go ahead and put our attention towards the control horns on the rear surfaces our first step is we're going to go ahead and go to the outermost hole and we're going to pass it through let's go ahead and make a temporary connection making sure that the holes of our push rod match directly over our hinge line same process on the rudder we're going to connect our control horn to our push rod we're going to take it up and we're going to press it into the rear of the rudder you have any kind of binding like we do here you can always go ahead and you can take your razor blade and you can just put a little bit of a relief right in the bottom or surface alright let's let me flip this over and put our attention towards the inside the fuselage we now know how long our push rods are gonna be so what we can do next is we're going to look for right around the center section here now because the wings the Corsair going to kind of go up and into the fuselage we don't want to mount these servos too low we want to make sure that they're up high enough to do that we're gonna go ahead right around where the wing is the highest and we're just gonna go ahead and put our thumb once we have this we're going to go ahead and Bend down straight towards the fuselage got about two millimeters over and Bend 90 degrees once again this is called a modified Z Bend notice I scratched the edge of the servo here we want this to be nice and gritty so it bites really well into the foam we don't want the server to come loose because we don't want to lose control of our aircraft we're gonna go ahead and go to the outermost hole of the server warm and roll it up making sure that we haven't moved our servo if we have to press ENTER a resetar and again that's okay we're gonna go ahead and mount our servos about an inch above the bottom of the wing surface once you're happy with where it fits I kind of push down hard in the foam and let it kind of sink in so I have a good index let me go ahead and put some glue on the back of my servo and the biggest thing I'm gonna look for here is to make sure that my rudder is nice and centered as I hold it in place you see I'm holding us in place and my rudder sound give us a good minute to dry before you move on to the next step now that our rudders done we're gonna go ahead and do the Zack same process now on our elevator make sure with the elevator that doesn't move too far because you got to remember it's not glued in quite so we're gonna go ahead and mark right around the middle again we're gonna grip it we're gonna bend straight down we're gonna grab it about two millimeters down and we're gonna straight over I got my survey wall pre scuff we're gonna go to the outer most hole again so this is all you need to get it to pass through all right you've done one last little check make sure everything looks really good with the elevator once again I'm gonna go down about an inch below the surface of the wing make a little indent make sure I'm happy with where it should be right where it's about flat everything looks good nice big glob of glue and then right back down like I'm always gonna make sure that my elevator and my control surfaces are nice and flat as a blue dress if not go ahead and move it immediately and then let the glue set for at least one minute now that our servers are all glued in and a push rods are all set we can go ahead and lift these up one at a time and we'll just put a little bit of glue right where that slot is and then press it down through again I know I say this a lot but it's really important let the glue thoroughly dry on this so you have a nice control link for your airplane all right our servos are now done we're ready to move on to our next step so our next step is gonna be to build our power pod now this is the same dimensions of a normal power pod but just like the FT Scout it's actually a little bit shorter now if you have a typical power pod you can actually cut it short to the same length that you see here and build along with us the first thing we're going to do is when clear out our cavities simply fold it over 180 degrees and peel off the foam and our next step is doing a fold once again a fold is where the side plates go above the bottom plate so we'll leave the side plate firmly against the table as we rotate up 90 degrees let's go ahead and focus the majority of our glue on the bottom surface of the side plate up to 90 and hold for about 45 seconds all right our glue is dry let's go ahead and do the other side little bead down on the table up to 90 now we have the main portion of our pod complete we're gonna go ahead and glue on our swappable firewall now if your scratch belt along with us you can also go to our storing if five packs of these if you don't wanna have to scroll cut it out we're gonna glue this with the bottom surface as you see here and as you're facing towards you it's on the bottom left if it's facing away from you it'll be on the bottom right for this little open cavity here that's gonna be where we pass our wires through once we're happy with that we can go ahead and sit as a vertical on the table put a nice bead of glue and we're just gonna place this right up there once again making sure that this hole is in the bottom left hand corner if it's facing towards you give this about a min to dry and then we're gonna tape it you're gonna go ahead and take about 10 inches of tape and centering it up we're gonna focus a tape not on the top surface but just below those two holes centering up on both sides and just like how we wrap a gift we're gonna go ahead and press this down we're gonna fold in one edge we're gonna fold in the other we're gonna fold it in the front don't neglect this step because this is what gives you power pot all the strength it needs so when you land rough or have a hard hard crash most likely this will not break for you all right next up here we're gonna want to take a exacto knife here we're going to trim out the centered holes and we're just gonna pop where the wood screws are gonna go and of course we're gonna clear out where our wires are going to pass through I've already assembled our new Ft radial CPAC motor this is a 20 to 18 motor has more power and efficiency than our old C packs now if you're building along and you do have an old C motor don't worry that's gonna give you plenty of power this just gives you a little bit more four-cell capability and also the ability to swing a 10-inch prop on three cell or four cell which means crazy power alright so let's go ahead and screw this in I already have the back assemble to have the X mount assembled and screwed in I'm just gonna go ahead and guide one wire at a time through and you'll see that the x-mount lines up beautifully right with the firewall holes alright we're gonna take the screwdriver that's included with our CPAC we're gonna go ahead and guide that through what you're going to notice is I only put three screws in the motor mount that's gonna be more than enough but also I kind of want to avoid this one right here because when this is mounted in the airplane upside down I don't want the battery to fly forward and puncture itself on that screw right there so we're just gonna go ahead and leave it out so next we gotta go and put our ESC on you're gonna notice that this is different ESU than our classic CPAC the cool thing about it is our new B and C packs actually come with a 35mm ESC they're both the same these are actually capable of bursts over 50 amps with no problem whatsoever we're gonna pair this with this motor to get the efficiency and the power we need so first thing we need we're going to let make these Street connections and when we fire up the profit if it spins this way we don't want all we need to do is slide out the power pot and reverse any of these two connections and we'll spin the prop the other way our power pod is now done we're ready to move on to the next step which is putting in the airplane so our next step here is we're gonna take our power pod and we're gonna go ahead and fit it down now you're gonna notice typically our power pot always mounts where the bottom surface is facing down in this case we're gonna feed this through and we're gonna mount it with the cavity facing down like you see here so it's really important here that we want this to go back as far as possible but we want to make sure that doesn't go so far back that the prop hits it so I like to take it back just enough right about there before we scare this in we'll put the prop on and we'll make sure that we have the clearance that we want alright so for our next step we're gonna go ahead and start hooking up our receiver now this is really cool this is a new spectrum receiver it's not broken this actually doesn't have any external antennas which in my case is wonderful because often times I end up breaking them we range tested these things and they work phenomenal so we're gonna go ahead and push this up and cool thing also about it it has a bind button instead of a bind plug which makes hooking up even easier I've taken my DX 80 and I've dial it to a new model and I'm gonna go ahead and go through the buying process now first thing we're gonna do is we're gonna go ahead and line up our top yellow plate and we're gonna stick it into channel 1 where throttle is notice on the very top here it says data that's going to correspond with this white line or yellow line to put on the connector you have that will be your data line so we have ground power and data next we'll go ahead and take our rudder servo a rudder servo will go in port number 4 and finally we'll take our elevator servo and that's going to go into port number 3 always make sure when you're doing this step that you keep your prop off because if anything is reverse you don't want this to go full-throttle it can potentially hurt you with our transmitter turned off and I'm just going to hold the bind button down with my thumb you unplug in our battery we have a flashing orange light I'm gonna go and take this at least three feet away power it on my holding on the back button there's bail alright so now it's a really good time to go ahead and make sure our controls are going the right direction for our rudder when we push our rudder to the right we want to see it go right in this case it's going left which means I need to reverse it let's go ahead and look at the elevator so we can reverse it and change everything at once when I pull back the rear elevator should go up and it goes down so all I need to do I just need to go into my servo setup go to travel collect it roll it over to reverse click on reverse I'm gonna go to elevator reverse my elevator I'll go to rudder and reverse my rudder now when I move my rudder everything looks good when I move my elevator everything moves good in our kit we're gonna have a throw gauge so you can dial this in twelve degrees will be low rates sixteen degrees will be high rates and I love run and 30% expo on both okay let's go ahead and plug in our wings and get our ailerons all centered up and then we'll also make sure our motor spins the right direction all right I'm just gonna go ahead and loosely set this right on top of the airplane it's really taking shape beautifully we'll go ahead and make our connection in port number two there we go alright it's really close when I push my stick to the right the right aileron goes down which is wrong I want to go up so I'm gonna go back into my servo setup I'm gonna go over to reverse and I reverse my Ella so now I can go into my sup trim because I'm just a little bit off go to aileron and I'll simply roll the scroll and tell us where I want alright our last step on the controls is to make sure our problem is the right direction and we want the prop to go counterclockwise so and this is perfect now if this is wrong all we need to do is go to our ESC leaves there's gonna be three of them pick any two of the leads and reverse those unplug one swap it out with the other and plug them ball back in make sure that the brass connections don't touch or it'll short out your ESC and your motor that will reverse the direction of your motor in this case all of our controls were at the right direction our throws are good we're ready to go on to our next step our next step here is I'm gonna disconnect the links I'm gonna go ahead and put a prop on temporarily and then I go to the drivers skewers through to lock in my power pot alright so this is great I have just about a pinky with a space right between the cowling and the motor to close that's gonna be a little bit noisy and too far away it's just gonna look kind of funny we're gonna go ahead and leave this here I'm going to make sure that the power pot is firmly against the sleeve which it is now our kids you're gonna see four different holes I went ahead and made them a little bit bigger here just so you can see them easier on this plane what we're gonna do is we're gonna go ahead pass this through we're not gonna try to stick it all the way through one side through to the other side because there's a good chance that we won't be able a line we're gonna go ahead and with a twisting motion this is going right through that ball cut so there's lots of straight there we're gonna pass it on through just like you see here and then we're gonna go over to the other side I can do the same process try to get this as level as possible at the elevator I actually move it and I site this down and keep these parallel between the elevator and the skewer twisting motion again it'll pop to the firewall and I just like to make sure that it's all guiding through so I'll just go ahead and take a quick look it looks like we got it perfectly there's one I'm just gonna go ahead and just leave just about an eighth of an inch and we'll go ahead and do it one more time here once again we're going to line this up kind of site down make sure it's parallel with the elevator a little bit of a twisting motion there's one side right over to the other side we're gonna pass it on through there we go so our power pot is now locked in everything looks wonderful I'm gonna go ahead and put my nut on the front end here cuz our props all done everything's all situated next up here is we're gonna go ahead and place some velcro on the bottom of the shelf here I'm gonna go ahead and kind of get this key right here we'll dress this up in a second we're gonna put a piece of velcro around the bottom don't make this velcro too large or when you put your battery in and you go to pull it out it's gonna go ahead and stick so hard that will damage the foam just give yourself about maybe an inch and a half of velcro is all you need often times in my head like this a fuzzy fuselage so I remember so we're gonna put fuzzy on the fuselage I'm also going to cut two other inch pieces of velcro for the ESC to stick up we're going to go ahead and stick that on the inside of the power pie that's upside down so a lot of people have been asking on our new ESC s what is this little port for this is actually an exhilarating for this taps into the battery feed and that's filtered so that way you can power LED lights you can power fpv equipment it'll actually provide source voltage from ritual whether it's three cell or four cell it'll give you that wall to shoot that connector so for this I'm gonna go ahead and leave this loose what we'll do is we'll make our connection and we can either velcro on the inside of the wing or we can just tuck it inside the wing cavity alright at this point we're ready to move on I'm gonna hand this over to my friend John and he's gonna show us how to finish it off now we're gonna add some wings I have laid these wings about where they need to be now you can see they fit nicely here in the back up front you're not going down all the way like they're supposed to I'm gonna do someone take my exacto knife and I'm gonna cut a little bit of material away at the rear so those wings will drop in nicely got really good fit front to back I'm gonna roll it over it seemed looks really nice we'll push it together there in the front just a little bit may have to add a little bit of hot glue to fill that seam but that isn't a bad fit at all check the other side and that looks really good too so now that I've test fitted those wings out just a bit and what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna add this healthy bead of glue here and here I'm gonna let this cool for about a minute and a half I put a lot of glue on there and I want to make sure that's had plenty of time to cool down now that the back has had time to cool off I'm gonna add a little bit of glue on both sides going a couple inches on either side use a piece of scrap remove some of this excess glue and I'm gonna do the same on the other side then I'm gonna hold this down for a little over a minute so we've got glue added at the rear and also at the front I'm gonna go back and add glue anywhere I can now the wings are on we're going to go ahead and flip it upside down and we're going to make sure that our vertical stabilizer is exactly straight up and down I'm gonna run a bead of glue down either side a good way to line up the vertical stabilizer is to look right down the top of the fuselage there's a nice line and you can make an adjustment side-to-side with the wings on we can look and see that the horizontal stabilizer is a little bit crooked and remember we have not glued this in place so what I'm going to do is it looks like it needs to rotate this way just slightly so I'm going to take a little bit of material right above this right hand side I've got my razor blade flat I don't have to take away very much I'm shaving away probably a little less than 1/16 of an inch now allow this to rotate once this is level I'm going to apply a bead of glue along each side I'm just gonna do the top after the glue cools off I'll flip it over and we'll add another bead of glue on the bottom you get some excess glue using a scrap piece of foam go ahead and just wipe away the excess give this about 45 seconds and then we'll flip it over and do the other side with a top cooled off I'm going to go ahead and apply a bead of glue to the bottom now the vertical stabiliser horizontal stabiliser are all lined up when I add a bead of glue on either side I'm warning to run fairly thin be the glue to keep everything nice and clean so including them the kit is gonna be a black vinyl canopy decal now if you guys want to scratch build this all you need to do is you can download the free pattern or you can go ahead and pick it up a store along with the laser-cut cloud parts so you can build along with this video too there we go installing the final cover things are gonna fit really well here in the back there may be a little bit of trimming that needs to be done up front it looks a little wide on either side so I'm going to go in with a razor blade and make one trend make another trim I may have to do this in two passes a little material water I still need to take a little bit of material off of both sides and rather do just a little bit at a time then take too much now so this piece in order to make sure it lays nice and flat I'm going to stand this piece up you know I'm just going to run I'm going to cut a bevel going from the top to the bottom and I'm gonna do yeah I really close this things up now the bottoms fitted I'm going to glue to these rectangle pieces together I'm going to glue it on here forming a lip position is a super super critical you can see I've got about half is glued about the halfway mark once that cools drop that tab in and see how it locks pivot this down and we're going to take a skewer and an angle shove it through that doubler I'm gonna back that out and it went in about that far I take a razor blade and I'm gonna roll that skewer got some downward pressure on that razor blade then you can just snap it clean find the hole do that otto hölder we're gonna do the same on the other side so thanks to John this is now pretty much ready to fly the next step here is to establish our center of gravity now especially on the Corsair this is not a step that you want to neglect if it's tail heavy it's simply not gonna fly well at all or if at all so what we're gonna do is we're gonna open up the back hatch that John just completed and I have a twenty hundred millionth force out here this is a really good battery if you look it for speed make our connection actually surf for battery compartment we have a nice open cavity right here where the battery will be lit up and in just like you see here then I'm gonna go ahead and try balancing this with a twenty hundred million four cell battery now if you ever flying off of a smaller battery you may have to add some lead all the way up in the nose against the front firewall but for this I'm just gonna go ahead and slide this in just like that easy way to tell CG on low wing airplanes is to flip it upside down and what we're looking for is a nose heavy attitude right around the spar that you see here and it definitely is that so with your fingers right on top of the spars inverted we're gonna go ahead and we'll hang this down what we're looking for is just a slight nose-heavy attitude typically on warbirds we're going to balance about 20% back not 30% back so start at this setting then you can always put a lighter battery in or move your battery around to get the desired performance at this point we can button this up I'm not going to make any connections until before cried and John's gonna help you finish this off now that everything's put together we're gonna give everything a good looking over and see if there's any areas that need attention I mentioned earlier in the video we've got a little bit of excess on this bottom wing I'm gonna go around this outer edge with the razor blade now the lower wing matches the upper and I'll do the same on the other one as well if you want this leading edge a little more rounded there's a couple ways you can simply take your thumbnail and drag it across and you can see that foam starting to crush right there on that leading edge you can also take a sharpie and do the same thing the experiment is a little bit with using heat also whenever we used heat we took a piece of tape and we ran it from one end of the wing all the way up the other and we took just regular iron we have a small iron here but you can use a household iron real low heat make sure you use the tape because if you don't use the tape this is all gonna just come open but you can take and you can do a little bit of shaping there there's several ways that you can do this or you don't have to do it at all we test flew a few of these where we didn't do any shaping on the leading edge of the wing it's just a detail if you want to do that's how we did it alright the Corsair is done it is time to maiden alright friends sadly we finished this build up in the night and John had to take off to go back home but we are ready to made with his amazing creation here and one thing if you've never made in a plane before we have a great video called six quick tips for successful first flight make sure you check that out because really important there's a balance servo direction launching in the wind things we've all covered it's just a really great video to give you one final checklist to make sure you have a great experience so everything balances out I'm gonna go ahead and put this into the wind we'll see how she flies holy cow not a click of trim so typically planes like the Corsair are riddled with issues with torque I just gave it basically just a little bit over half throttle in a gentle launch and she flies amazing now I am flying a four cell so you guys can have a bunch more docile experience if you go ahead and go with a three cell but balance has always do the crucial keys let's go ahead and check out slow flight are you catching that Alex that's ridiculous all right do a couple fast passes no wing waggle nothing all right let's do it nice low pass now I've flown a lot of different Corsairs of this by far has the best characteristics I've ever flown out of any of them by from that light wing loading see how she doesn't small area here take it over - point roll beautiful all right friends so I'm gonna go ahead and keep flying this but one thing I want to really encourage you this may be a challenging build but it's not gonna be a challenging plane to fly it is a great experience it slows down beautiful thank you again for being part of the flight test family thank you again to John for designing such incredible plane I look forward to doing a lot more builds a lot more of your amazing community members in the near future we'll see you next time

Channel: Flite Test Tech

Views: 691,631

Rating: 4.7470269 out of 5

Keywords: Flite Test, remote controlled, unmanned, drone, rc, uav, rc hobby, rc shop, build, how to, ASMR, ft mighty mini, mighty mini corsair, how to make a paper airplane, cheap paper airplane, peter sripol, flight test foam board, swappable

Id: DRgKW__by2c

Length: 157min 4sec (9424 seconds)

Published: Sun Feb 24 2019