How to Build the FT Master Series P-38 Lightning // BUILD

hey everybody and welcome to flitetest I'm John Overstreet and today we're gonna be building the flight test p-38 lightning guys this is the one that I've been waiting for you may not know this but the p38 was actually the second master series airplane that was designed but it's been sitting on the backburner for quite some time there was some question whether or not this should actually be released due to its complexity but after looking at the planes that you guys have been building on the forums and social media I have no doubt that you're gonna be able to not only build this but hit it out of the park if you've already built other master series airplanes you're gonna notice that there are some similarities between other aircraft and the p38 that said because of the p38 shape there are a couple steps and a couple techniques that are going to be new the p38 I feel really pushes the limit of what foam is actually able to do the booms especially they require foam to be rolled tighter than on any other aircraft that I've done the fit between the boom and the wings is also a pretty interesting fit that requires the foam to be reinforced as with all flight test planes the p38 is going to be available it's a free download or is a speed build kit if you choose to support flight test by purchasing a speed build kit there's definitely some advantages first of all everything is precision laser cut you don't have to worry about parts not fitting because they're not cut out correctly also all parts are included that are needed to build this aircraft - the electronics and last all the speed build kits are cut from flight tests water resistant foam this is a huge advantage if you'd like to fly in the early morning or get out right after it rained I know anytime it's rained I'm always looking forward to getting out and flying if you choose to take advantage of the free download I want to recommend Adams foam board over Ellmers or Ross there's a couple things about Adam's foam board that makes it especially suitable for building these particular aircraft number one it's slightly pliable and not brittle like the competitors if you have a brittle foam you're never going to be able to get the same shape that you get with the add second of all it's lightweight you don't want an aircraft that's weighed down by unnecessary weight and Adams ready board is available everywhere hobby stores craft stores and dollar stores one last thing be watching for the all-new white water-resistant makers foam from flight test this stuff is going to be a game-changer if you like painting aircraft you're gonna love this stuff also monster foam monster foam is almost here and monster foam means that you can take this aircraft or any other flight test aircraft blow it up about a hundred and eighty five percent and you are going to have a giant aircraft that flies great so enough for me go ahead and grab your kit supplies get lots and lots and lots of masking tape you're going to need it let's get to building let's begin by building the main wing the main wing consists of two upper wing skins two lower wing skins two wooden spars and for foam spars the reason I like starting with the main wing is that the method we use to form the airfoil is the same method we use to roll the fuselage that's it the airfoil on the wing requires a minimal amount of shaping compared to the shaping required on the fuselage by starting out with a nice gentle curve this will help you get the feel for shaping foam go ahead and move the wing skins and wooden spars off to the side we're going to go ahead and glue up the foam wing spars I've got a razor blade that I have taken and rubbed on concrete on both sides I put a piece of blue tape on there and this works really well for going down the scores using your dulled razor blade go ahead and go down each score on each of these spars going down to scores with a dull razor blade or credit card makes it easier to pull out this center section once you've gone down each of the scores go ahead and break the spar open like this and we're gonna go ahead and here out this center section go ahead and do that on the remaining three once the center's are pulled out of the spars we're going to go ahead and glue things together before we glue though I'm going to go ahead and fold this up you'll notice that I'm making a c fold and the reason this is called a c fold just once fold it up you can see this outer paper forms a letter C we're gonna put a bead of glue all the way down this center channel I am going to start about a half inch from the end here and end about a half inch from the end here that way we don't have glue shooting out of the ends where we can get burned in addition to putting a bead of glue down the middle I'm also going to run a bead of glue all the way down one of the spars I'm using a moderate bead of glue this will give me a lot of time to get everything positioned correctly let this cool down for a full minute before you go on to the next one follow the same process on the remaining three go ahead and move these spars off to the side and we're gonna go ahead and grab the lower wing skins let's start by gluing the two together first thing I'm gonna do is check for a test fit hey that looks good and I'm going to take one of my wooden spars and I'm gonna put it underneath one of the sides reason I'm going to do that is I'm going to glue these two together and I want to leave a space between the bottom of the wing and the table so the wing doesn't get stuck to the tabletop run a very heavy bead of glue right down the edge and then stick to one side to the other let this cool down for about a minute and a half once that's cooled down go ahead and move your wooden spar and we're going to remove four of these little rectangles from each side of the wing two of them are located near the center and two of them are located near the end I'm using a barbecue skewer and I've got the dull land and I'm gonna go ahead and dig these out if you don't get every little piece out don't worry about it we're going to be filling these cavities with glue and any small amount of foam will melt away once a glue gets put in I'll do the same thing on the other side once that's completed we're gonna go ahead and cut out this rectangle here and then this small rectangle here do the same on the other side with that complete go ahead and grab your foam spars go ahead and lay them out like I've got here you'll notice that the tabs are facing the center and you'll notice that the tabs are down against the lower wing skin let's go ahead and do a test fit these tabs of course are going to go in these cavities that looks good go ahead and pull it back out you're gonna fill each cavity with glue once you do that go ahead and apply a heavy bead of glue to the bottom of the spar hold this spar in place for a full minute and a half while the glue cools down now we'll do the same on the rear spar let's start with the test fit first that looks good now we're going to do the same on the other side just like before we've got the tabs facing one another and the tabs are against the lower wing skin once that's cooled down we're going to go ahead and install the wooden spars first wooden spar is going to go towards the leading edge and what I'm going to do is line up this point with the center lines where the two wings have been glued together okay that looks good I'm going to apply glue you can see in using a really heavy bead of glue let that cool down for a full minute before we're doing the next one now we'll go ahead and install the rear wooden spar I find my center point right there line it up to the center spot on the wing that looks good and just like before give that a full minute to cool down once that's cooled down we're going to go ahead and Bend the other side upwards until it matches the dihedral set by the spars and I'm going to put a roll of tape on this side or a little tape will help hold things in place while we're gluing things together so that looks good I'm going to put a heavy bead of glue here and a heavy bead of glue here let that cool down for about a minute left once that's cooled down go ahead and set your wing assembly off to the side and grab one of your upper wing skins we're going to begin by tearing paper off of one side of the wing in order to ensure that the right side is removed if you look at this line right here you're going to see a score cut along the aileron we want this facing upwards if you look at the other side you won't see a cut so we want to tear the paper off that has this cut right here let's begin by removing paper near the aileron once we get to this cut I'm gonna take a ruler and I'm gonna lay it against the trailing edge of the wing what I want to do is leave about an inch of paper along the trailing edge of the wing so I'm holding my ruler down as I tear the paper away once the papers been removed go ahead and flip the wing upside down and fold the aileron all the way back go ahead and place a ruler about a quarter inch from the edge of the folded aileron like I've got here we're going to go ahead and cut a bevel all the way along this edge the way I like doing it I like the hole or razor blade at about a 45 degree and then I rotate the razor blade about 45 degrees in the direction I'm going to be dragging it I draw it across using the ruler as a guide go it gives us a nice clean double that allows the aileron to flex once you've cut the bevel go ahead and run a heavy bead of glue all the way along development using a piece of scrap go ahead and remove the excess glue once that's done we're going to go ahead and create the airfoil we're going to do that by rolling this over to the edge of a table in order to form the airfoil we're going to be placing both hands flat on the upper wing skin and we're going to be drawing the airplane backwards with a moderate amount of pressure in order to determine how much pressure is needed I'm going to show you approximately how much I start with I press down when I roll the wing over you're gonna see a small crease that's a good place to start you may need a little more you may need a little less this is something you just get the feel for when forming up the airfoil I'm gonna start about two-thirds of the way from the leading edge now I've got about two-thirds away from the leading edge on the wing tip as well and Windu's I wanna take and draw it backwards with the moderate pressure over the edge of the table each time I draw it I'm gonna move my hands over just a little bit now go ahead and do it a second time I'm gonna go ahead and do it a third time but instead of starting way back here I'm going to start about here now with just a little bit of work you can see that we've already created an airfoil what we want before we install the upper wing skins to the lower wing skin is we want an exaggerated airfoil so what I'm going to do now is we're going to go back and work the leading edge which is about here it tapers down all the way to the wingtip so we're really going to take and we're going to curl this in an exaggerated fashion let's move it back to the edge of the table so this time instead of just drawing it down with both hands I'm gonna be bending the leading edge with my fingers so watch for that as I do this [Music] the leading edge likely won't be as smooth as this other area so we're going to do this two or three times to kind of smooth everything out so now you can see that this airfoil has really been exaggerated I actually want it to be a little taller so I'm going to go back and work things again probably in this area that looks good let's go ahead and do the other side just like on the first side we're going to remove paper from one side find the score and go ahead and start removing the paper clip the wing white side down hold the aileron back position the ruler about a quarter inch from the edge and catch a bevel feel that bevel full of goo wipe away the excess make sure the aileron stays open till the glue is had a chance to cool down now let's go ahead and add the airfoil just like before we're going to put the edge of the table about 2/3 the way from the leading edge of the wing then just draw it down like we did on the other side now that I've gone over it a couple times I'm up at the edge of the table about the midpoint from the leading edge on both sides draw it down now we're going to do the leading edge and as I draw down I'm also going to be bending the leading edge with my fingertips before we glue the upper wing skins in place we're going to add a bevel along the leading edge of the wing this will make a much better airfoil you can see here that the edge of the paper is about an eighth of an inch from the tabletop the bevel we're going to cut is going to allow the leading edge to almost touch the tabletop now you can see that the paper is just above the tabletop that bubble looks good now we'll do the same thing on the other side just like on the other side we want to remove the gap between the edge of the paper and the tabletop but I hope my eraser blade is as if it's parallel to the tabletop just when I start my blade and then I rotate up to cut that's the correct position as I'm cutting I'm watching the edge of the razor blade to make sure it doesn't get into the paper that edge looks really good now go ahead and grab your lower wing assembly and we're going to glue the upper wing skins in place let's start out with a test fit I'm going to be aligning the leading edge of the upper wing skin and lower wing skin in that'll position the wing forward and backwards there's a cutout at the center they'll help position the wings left and right once we've got position there's one area in particular that I want to inspect and it's at the wingtip I want to make sure that there is very little gap here at the wingtip so it's got a slight amount of pressure and it looks like I'm good if you've got a large gap right here go ahead and roll the wingtip over the edge of the table until that gap is closed in once we have test fit the upper wing skin we're gonna go ahead and glue things in place just make sure your glue gun has a full stick of glue for this step if not make sure you've got an extra glue stick handy we're gonna apply a heavy bead of glue along the top of both foam spars and we're going to apply a heavy bead of glue all the way down to the leading edge of the wing be sure and use a lot of glue this will ensure you have plenty of time to get the wing into position checking the leading edge of the wing and I'm checking this notch right here everything seems lined up good and then I'm just gonna apply pressure with the glue cools the wing tip at the leading they're just gonna want to pop up so make sure and watch this area very closely be sure and give this a full minute and a half to two minutes to cool you don't want the wing getting a pop up all right now let's go ahead and do the other side I mean just like before we're going to line up the leading edge and then I'm going to line up this notch here in the center go ahead and lay the wing down and I'm going to check for clearance issues right here you can see that the wing skin isn't laying down quite right so what I'm going to do let's take a razor blade they make a cut from the front to the back okay I've got good alignment left and right and a good good match along the leading edge I'm not going to inspect the wing tip and you can see that I've got a pretty good sized gap right here so before I glue this in place I'm gonna go ahead and roll this leading edge from the wingtip to about where this aileron starts and just like before I'm gonna use my fingertips to bend the leading edge down as I'm drawing it down now let's check fit again you can see that that gap is gone now looks good let's go ahead and glue it in place again we're going to add glue to the spars into the leading edge be sure and have a full glue stick in your gun or one on standby contact cools we're out go ahead and close in the very tips to glue the wingtips go ahead and tear off a couple pieces to tape then I'm going to flip the wing upside down now we're gonna apply a small amount of glue along the edge of the wing tip put a bead of glue between the two layers of foam now holding the wing upside down press the tip against the tabletop and you'll want to hold it for about 45 seconds and then we can put a piece of tape in place now let's do the other side tear off a couple more pieces of tape we're going to apply glue to the wingtip like we did on the other side press the wingtip to the table that cool down for about 45 seconds and then you can tape it well this seems a little bit awkward to do it this way this will ensure that the wingtip looks really business smooth now we're going to add a line of glue at the trailing edge of the wing pinch head down and let it cool for about 45 seconds and then we'll do the other side now that we've finished the main wing let's move on to the canopy section go ahead and remove the following parts from your kit you're going to need parts C 1 C 2 C 3 and C 4 also remove parts p1 through p8 make sure you've got all eight of them there's a little one here don't want to forget that you'll need to formers marked F 1 2 formers marked F 2 4 formers marked F 3 there are also three unmarked parts one of them shaped like the head of a spear there's a very small pill shape piece and then there's a battery box this is different than the power pods you'll notice that the bottom of it is cut square the power pods are cut at an angle we're going to go ahead and start out for the main sections these are the parts p1 through p8 go ahead and set everything else off to the side go ahead and grab the part marked p5 you're going to notice that there's a score running down the middle go ahead and break the part open and we're going to fill the channel with glue go ahead and lay that down flat now we're going to remove paper from one side of each of these parts you're going to notice that one side has a number and letter designation and the other side doesn't we are always going to want to remove the paper from the side with the designation so let's go ahead and do that now that the papers been removed we're going to go ahead and start forming up each of these parts let's go ahead and start with p1 I'm gonna put it over the edge of the table like this and I'm gonna draw it over the table and you can see how I'm twisting it like over each side about four or five times and then spin it around these edges seem to be coming together really nicely what I'm looking for is for these edges to come together perfectly flush I don't want them like this you need to come together flush took your feet if you're having a hard time getting this shape go ahead and just roll things a little bit more more you work this the more pliable the foam will be okay that looks good now we're going to glue it together before I glue it though I'm gonna tear off a small piece of tape I'm going to apply a heavy bead of glue along one side I stick the two halves together the paper on this side is going to overlap the paper on this side that way the glue will squirt towards the inside go ahead and hold this for about a minute and then you can put a piece of tape across it once that's done let's go ahead and do p2 looks like before and put that right in the center like draw it down and twist don't I get about a half inch from the edge I always make a little bit more of an exaggerated Bend this will help the edges come together really flush okay I'm gonna do a test fit that looks good let go ahead and tear off a piece of tape and like we did on the first piece and the apply glue to one side and I'm going to use a paper on this side to overlap the paper on this side and this piece is big enough that I can kind of pinch it on either end a piece of tape across it again I'm making sure that when these pieces come together that they're coming together flush and that they're not like this set that piece off to the side and we're gonna go ahead and do P 3 P 3 and P 4 may feel a little bit different as you're forming them the foam has a grain and the way these kits are packaged up the P 3 and P 4 go against the grain you just have to work at it a little bit longer just like on the other parts we've rolled over the edge of the paper when I apply glue I'm gonna start about 3/16 from the end and stop about 3/16 from the end that way when I put the pieces together we won't have glue shooting out either in checking to make sure there's no glue squirting out and I'll pinch it go one piece of tape I'll hold it pretty good I'm gonna go ahead and tear off one more piece you can see here at the end where those edges aren't flush it's starting to peak up so I'm gonna push down in the center put a piece of tape across there let's go do P 4 P 4 is done the same way as P 3 P 5 is going to be just slightly different since we glued this seam up whenever we roll it there's going to be a little bit of a catch right there just have to be careful when we roll the center now we're working this center area just know that as you draw it over the edge of the table it's going to catch just a little bit that looks good now you can see that I'm kind of oblong which means I probably need to work this area in this area just a little bit more okay that looks good a little tape and glue things up all right parts p6 and p7 we're going to add a little bit of curvature tube but they do not make a complete circle so that'll be okay for now let's do the same thing on p7 that'll work p8 will be done just like the other two now we've added shape to each of these parts we're gonna go ahead and start gluing the pieces together let's go ahead and start with parts p1 p2 and p3 I'm gonna grab a former just so you can kind of see the shape that we're going for you can see when looking at the front of the p-38 it's kind of got it upside down egg shape looking at part p1 you're going to want this seam facing downward we're gonna pinch it close to the bottom here where it'll hold that upside down egg shape okay once that's been done go ahead and grab part p2 this is one with a little slots for the guns to go through again we want the seam at the bottom we're going to do the same thing we're kind of pinched it near the bottom okay once we got that we're going to lay P one right on top of P two you'll see that the seam is lined up exactly what I'm going to do I'm going to line these two parts and there's a little bit of a gap between the nose and the next section and if you look you can see that there's quite a bit of foam poked up so what I'm going to do is I'm going to cut that excess peak off holding a razor blade flat can you see if that fits up any better now that looks a lot better now we want to apply glue around the entire circumference of this part before we do that I want to make sure that the fit between these two parts are perfect because I'm looking at this you can see a little white line right here and take I'm gonna bend this in just a little bit don't really take your time on this step a little bit of extra time spent ensuring that the fit is good will give you a much better looking finished product okay that's really close we've been this hand just a little bit Kant must spin this around and you can see the fit that I've got we'll go ahead and apply glue to one side stick these two pieces together being excess glue just take a scrap of foam and you're going to wipe away the excess give that about a minute and half to cool after that's cooled go ahead and grab both of the f1 formers and glue them together let that cool for about a minute after its cooled down go ahead and cut a bevel around the entire former alright go ahead and grab the nose you want the scene facing downwards at the bottom of f1 you're gonna see a little crop mark hairline that crop mark up with the seam and we're going to push this in the thickness of one piece of foam ok you can see that it's not wanting to go right here so what I'm going to do is I'm going to go what I'm going to cut the bevel back to that scene need to remove a little bit more material and it's definitely fitting better now that's been test fit let's go ahead and glue the former in but that cool for about a minute and you'll notice that got one layer of foam sticking out once that's cooled down we're gonna go ahead and attach the next part go ahead and grab p3 and just like the others we want to make sure the seam is here at the bottom and I'm gonna line that seam up at the bottom I'm going to squeeze the sides and as I do that it's gonna pop over that former that's sticking out down when I first put it on there you're gonna see that there's a pretty big gap there at the top as I squeeze the bottom and create that egg shape you're going to see that that gap will close in when I take pressure off that gap gets bigger when I squeeze it that gap closes so once we had glue you're gonna want to pinch here at the bottom and push forward here alright happy with the way that looks so go ahead and pull the parts apart go ahead and tear off about five pieces of tape about four inches long [Music] now we're going to apply glue all the way around this former I'm going to make sure there's no tape in the way if there is I'm just going to peel it back just a little bit we're gonna apply a pretty heavy bead of glue this will give us a lot of time to get parts in position lining up the seam at the bottom squeezing the sides and it slides right over or I've got a good scene I'm not going to put a piece of tape squeeze it at the bottom and push it okay I see I've got some glue squirting out go ahead and wipe that away using scrap okay I think we're good go ahead and let that cool down we'll go the next step go ahead and grab your two f2 formers remove the windows from both and we're going to glue the two together just like we did on former number one we're gonna add a bevel all the way around you see that I'm adding more bevel at the bottom than on the edges now we're going to go ahead and test fit former number two and I'm going to line up this crop mark with the same and we're going to push this in just like with former number one we want one layer of foam sticking up okay that looks good go ahead and glue that in place using a pretty heavy bead of glue so we'll have plenty of time to get it in position hold in place for about a minute while it cools once that cool set it off to the side and go ahead and grab part number P grab two formers marked f3 go ahead and cut the windows out and we're going to glue these together let that cool for about 30 seconds looking at the part labeled p4 you'll notice that there's a small end and a larger end we want the smaller end facing downward we're going to a test fit with the former labeled f3 I'm looking at the crop mark lining it up to the scene fit it in this time we're going to go all the way flush here fit looks good I'm going to go ahead and pull this out and we're going to run glue all the way around the inside edge checking my alignment if there is a gap around with the perimeter just make sure that that gap is even let's just cool down for about a minute well that's cooling down go ahead and tear off four to five pieces of tape now let's do a test fit between the two parts first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to check to make sure that the seams are lined up now I'm going to look straight in what's more important than the seams being lined up at the bottom is that this cutaway in this second cutaway or lined up exactly I might need to clock things just a little bit differently I had to rotate f3 clockwise just a little bit so that this knockout lines up with the second knockout if I look at the scene you can see that I'm a little bit off and that's just fine it's more important that the windows are lined up than the seams once I'm happy with my test fit I'm going to pull the two parts apart or an apply glue all the way around the perimeter okay that's together good now I'm gonna look at it from the back everything lines up good there now I'm going to start taping anywhere the seam looks good I'm having to twist the parts you can see there's a little bit of a gap there so I'm going to twist this back part that lines up now I can tape it same looks good here it just needs to be pushed together a piece of tape there you see I've got a pretty big gap right there I'll push that together from this side push that together and then tape it I check the windows one last time for the glue fully cools we look really good you can set this part off to the side while we do the next step now go ahead and grab the section marked p5 and we're going to go ahead and glue on parts p6 p7 and PA go ahead and tear off a couple pieces of tape we're going to do a test fit between p5 and p6 you'll notice that it will only fit one way you'll see that the edge matches up on this side as well as this side if the part is reversed they'll match up on one side but be short on the other so make sure you have it turned correctly so to make this easy we're just going to glue one side at a time by b2 glue and stick the two halves together hold that for about 25 seconds and then you put a piece of tape across the scene once that cools you can go ahead and do the other side and I'm going to scissor this closed you will get a piece of tape across that seam now we're going to go ahead and do a test fit between parts p6 and p7 p7 slants way back so what I'm going to do is I'm going to pinch this like so and fit the two parts together you're going to notice there at the top that there's a pretty big gap and you can see that the foam is sticking out quite a bit so what we're going to do is we're going to take a razor blade and we're going to trim off that excess foam okay let's check the fit again here we go that's much better let's go ahead and tear off a couple pieces of tape and we're going to try to do half of this put my finger here at the halfway mark hold that in place for about a minute once that's cooled down go ahead and put a piece of tape across the scene now let's do the other side I'm going to apply glue and I'm going to close the gap just like on the other side hold that for about a minute then you can add piece of tape now we're going to add p8 to p7 test fit looks good let's go ahead and glue this piece on as small as this piece is I'm going to go ahead and apply glue to the entire edge of p7 lad p8 yeah we'll let that cool for a full minute and a half before moving on all right once that's cooled down go ahead and grab the last two formers labeled f3 let's cut the windows out and go ahead and glue those together once it's cooled down we're going to insert f3 into the front of p5 lining up the crop mark there at the bottom with the same the formula will be flush to the edge that looks good let's go ahead and pull that out we're going to apply glue all the way around the perimeter checking alignment okay that looks good let that cool for about a minute once that's cooled down go ahead and grab this Arrowhead shape piece it's a symmetrical part tear paper off of either side all right once that's done we're gonna add just a little bit of curvature same way we did on the wing bring it over to the edge of the table draw it down very lightly we're not gonna have very much pressure on this one it's gotta be good right about there once you've added a little bit of shape to this part we're gonna slide this inside this canopy section now the fit does not have to be precise it just needs to be even on both sides once it's in there I'm going to pinch this closed I want to make sure that the point of this part is lined up with the point here there's about a quarter inch from this plate to this top edge I want to make sure that I've got the same spacing on both sides once I've got it positioned where I want them I put it Beata glue about 1 inch long once I do that I'm going to add a bead of glue on the other side as well I'm not worried about going the full length yet this short bead of glue on both sides holds the part in place make sure the glue has plenty of time to cool hold it for at least a minute and a half once you've got this piece tacked in place we're going to go ahead and apply glue here and here again the exact placement of this part isn't critical I'm just trying to make sure that it's even on both sides give this plenty of time to cool down once that's cooled down we're going to go ahead and run a bead of glue all the way down either side you're a little sloppy with glue it's okay oh this will be hidden be sure to allow plenty of time for this to cool now that this assembly is dried we're going to go ahead and trim back a little bit of foam so this will fit on the wing assembly nice and tight I'm gonna do is I'm gonna run a razor blade right along the paper and we're just gonna be removing just a slight amount of foam and we're just removing just the slightest amount until we get here and you can see that there's a bunch of foam hanging down here you gently saw that away and it's going to be pretty thin right here at the tip and that's all right now we'll do the same on the other side I'll show you from a little different angle even very little until about here there's anything sticking down you want to cut that off there we go now go ahead and grab your wing assembly and we're gonna install this part let's go ahead and test fit the canopy section to the main wing over here on my left I've got this cutout and on my left I've got this opening I'm going to slide the canopy section over the wing assembly it's going to be easy to see that it's centered here at the rear point of this will line up with this scene I have to look through the window on either side and you'll see a little bit of wing sticking out on both sides and you just want to make sure visually that this is Center once you get it centered the way you like you can take a razor blade and just put a real small mark on either side and when we go to glue it you can check center from the outside rather than having to look on the inside so once I'm happy with position I'm gonna go ahead and glue from about here to about here now you'll notice that there's a pretty big gap in there but with just a slight amount of pressure we can close that gap once we apply glue we are going to have to hold pressure on this until the glue cools down so I don't have excessive glue coming out the side I'm going to take a razor blade real lightly I'm I draw a line to do that on both sides well lift up and I'm going to apply glue inside of that line that I just scribed so I'll go ahead and apply a heavy bead of glue on both sides on the inside of that line that I scribed keep pressure for a full minute and a half or the glue cools once that's cooled down let's go ahead and peel the tape away and be careful when you're tearing over a seam that you don't take paper with the tape you can see when I come up to a seam I'll actually start to tear the tape in the direction of the same that will help keep paper from peeling away as I'm removing tape with the tape gone I'm going to apply a pretty heavy bead of glue right along this seam do the same on the other side just like I missed a spot here go in set the assembly off to the side for the time being we're gonna go ahead and make the actual canopy for this step you're going to need C 1 C 2 C 3 and C 4 we're going to go ahead and peel one layer of paper off of each one just like we did in other steps we're going to peel the layer that actually has the label on it once the papers been peeled away we're gonna go ahead and roll each piece I'm gonna start on one edge draw this over the edge of the table while twisting it slightly that's good just go into the next section and the next scroll it down the same on the last so let's start by putting c1 and c2 together you'll notice that there's a narrow side and a wide side we're going to glue the narrower side all right so first going to test fit it and you'll see that there's a big gap in there so what we need to do is remove just a little bit of foam so that'll come together a little neater let's check that again alright that's gonna work okay a little bit clumsy trying to hold it together but I can tell that it's going to be a good fit so before we glue let's go ahead and tear off three pieces of tape at three to four inches long and we're in a glue about a third of this at a time I'm gonna hold this for about a minute then you can put a piece of tape across it once it's cooled down let's do another third of it I'm gonna apply glue to c1 scissor this closed hold it for a minute then you can put a piece of tape across it now we'll go ahead and close in the last third again I'm applying glue to c1 hold for a minute and then tape now we're going to glue c3 to c2 I'm going to do a quick test fit that comes together just fine I don't see any gap so it doesn't look like we need to do any trimming let's start by tearing off a few pieces of tape and let's glue about a third of the way and I'll flip it over and apply glue to c2 let me stick out flip it back over apply glue to see to close the gap now go ahead and grab c4 we're going to glue that to c3 I'll do a quick test fit test fit looks good I'll have any gap up here at the top and I'm actually going to try to do this all at once sometimes it works out where you can do it all at once but if you have to do it twice or three times that's okay too I'm looking I'm looking at the edge of my canopy and it looks like one of the pieces was just slightly longer than the other it's no big deal I'm just going to go and trim just a little bit of excess off kind of blend the lines together I'll flip it over and do the same on the other side the side looks pretty good set to remove just a little bit of material now we've got a nice smooth edge before this piece was hanging down just a little bit so we trimmed it off and it was hanging down just a little bit too far here so now I've got a nice smooth line now we're going to be installing the canopy onto the center section but in order to get the canopy to fit correctly we need to add a bevel to this inside edge so I'm going to do is I'm on a roll can't be over I'm going to run my razor blade right along this edge and cutting this bevel will allow the canopy to fit a little tighter here's the material I removed you can see that I was cutting a really shallow bevel I'm gonna flip it around and do the same thing on the other side so again the big wide piece cut now I need to go in on the front in the back and cut a bevel and you can see it's a really shallow bevel that I'm cutting great once it bevels cut go ahead and grab the wing assembly and we'll install the canopy now we're gonna go ahead and test fit the canopy if you notice there's a very small tick mark right here there's also a very small tick mark right here these are going to correspond to it tick mark at the back and a tick mark up here at the front if you're not sure which is the front and back see one is the front so let's go ahead and line up the rear tick mark they will line up the front one there's going to be about an eighth of an inch gap between the front of the canopy and the edge right here we want to line the back of the canopy up to this line I'm pressing down on the canopy making sure that it's flush here at the front and it's flush here at the back you can see that the sides aren't touching and that's okay we're more worried about this getting glued at the back and then also at the front so the test fit looks good so what we're going to do is we're going to put a bead of glue around this entire area let's start by lining up the rear crop mark in the front and then I'm going to squeeze the sides hold this for a full minute and a half once that's cooled down go ahead and set your assembly off to the side let's grab our battery box using a credit card or a dull razor blade go right along the scores break them open you peel out the center now we're going to make an a fold which means that the sides are above the bottom plate like this you do I'm going to apply a line of glue and we're going to roll the center straight up let that go over about 30 to 45 seconds and we'll do the other side go ahead and run a bead of glue like you did on the other side roll the center straight up and let that cool down once it's cooled down go ahead and roll your box over like this and we're going to glue a popsicle stick right here once that cools down go ahead and grab your wing assembly again we're going to install the battery box the battery box is going to slide straight in the bottom of the wing is going to be writing on this side in this side you'll push the battery box in until the leading edge of the wing contacts right here so let's test fit it okay that's where it needs to be right there so I'm going to pull it back out then apply a small amount of glue here and here let that cool for about 45 seconds once that's cooled down I'm going to apply a bead of glue on either side you can see how there was a little bit of a gap there at the top so I'm gonna open this box a little bit as his cools as that's cooling down go ahead and grab the nose and then we're gonna find that very small pill shaped piece okay first thing we're going to want to do is tear off one side you can see when we test fit it doesn't want to go so what we're going to do is we're going to cut a bevel so that that piece fits okay that looks good I'm going to glue it in place let them cool for a full 45 seconds now let's go ahead and test fit the nose slide this one we have to wiggle it up and down a little bit all right okay you see you've got good fit here at the top but there's a gap at the bottom that's easy to fix we're gonna pull this off and what we're gonna do is we're going to remove a little bit of material at an angle from here and just gonna taper up to here do the same on the other side let's test fit this again okay it's better I still need to take a little bit arrow okay that's pretty close matter test fit looks good if you want you can go ahead and peel tape away actually starting to look like an airplane now now let's go ahead and set this assembly off to the side and we're going to go ahead and start on the booms now we're going to go ahead and build the boobs go ahead and remove them from the kit one of them will be labeled with a letter L the other will be labeled with a letter R you'll notice the seam right down the middle go ahead and break it open and we're going to fill this channel with glue [Music] go ahead and lay it flat and allow it to cool I'm gonna kind of roll a tape on here to keep it flat do the same on the other break it open apply glue and lay it flat give that a full minute and half to cool down and then we're going to go ahead and peel the paper once a glue cools down let's go ahead and peel off one layer of paper make sure that you tear off the side with the letter once you've got paper torn off it's time to go ahead and start rolling of all the steps in this build forming the booms are going to require the most time and attention take your time on this step and they'll turn out just fine unfortunately there are no shortcuts it's going to take some time to form these correctly when forming the booms I'm going to work the area between my fingers it's about an inch for an either edge and it's going to taper down to where it's about an inch from either edge here at the back as well just like before we're drawing it over the side of the table with a moderate amount of pressure as I'm drawing it over the table I'm also twisting slightly after I've gone over this area about a dozen times or so I'm gonna turn my attention to this last inch what I'm gonna do is I'm if I draw this over the table I'm gonna be bending with my fingers like down on other parts do the same on the other side even though we've worked this sinners section a dozen times or more we're not anywhere close to having this pliable like we need if we tried to form things up now you can see it just pops open and if we forced to close we would have crinkle marks all up and down this piece so now we're going to do something just a little bit different to get the shape that we're looking for go ahead and start by tearing off a number of pieces of tape about 7/8 inches long all right now that that's been done we're in our roll the boom over and I'll start rolling it the way you would a newspaper I'm adding a little bit of pressure but you notice that there's no crinkles along here and when I flip it around and do the same thing as I'm rolling you can see that I'm curling this edge in with my fingers I'm spending most of my time from here over this area is pretty pliable because it's got a pretty big circumference down here it's not wanting to go and being careful not to make crinkles you might be able to see where I did get one crinkle right there when I kind of watch that area all right I can feel the material starting to get a little bit more pliable so I'm going to do is I'm going to add a little bit more pressure and I'm actually gonna try to roll this now being careful not to form any crinkles okay so you can see I can almost get this to roll inside itself all right so we're really close so what I'm going to do now is I'm going to take a piece of tape and I'm going to wrap it around and then leave this sticky side up and put another piece right here and one more up here now now go ahead and roll this again roll it up like a newspaper and fishing the edge in with my fingertips it's kind of hard to see that on the camera and once I get it rolled I'm go ahead and wrap this tape around it and we're going to leave this like this for 30 minutes or so this will really help this phone take the shape that we want okay with that all taped up let's do the same thing on the other one so again we're just going to work about an inch in from the edge and now we're gonna work the edges and we'll start rolling it all right we'll set that off to the side now let's move on to the horizontal stabilizer for the horizontal stabilizer go ahead and remove this piece from your kids you'll also need a nine gram servo go ahead and grab your dull razor blade and bring go down this score and these two scores break that open let's tear out this center piece there are two rectangles on either end go ahead and go around the scores with your dull blade pop them out do the same on the other side using your Sharp razor blade remove these two rectangles in the middle alright once that's done go ahead and remove your servo we're using the flight test nine gram servo for this so let's do a test fit I'm gonna go ahead and drop the servo in like this now you'll notice that the wire is close to this channel we removed so I'm going to run this wire down the channel and it's going to go out this hole if you're using a servo that has a wire that's not long enough to go through the hole you can tear away this rectangle right here you can connect the servo to an extension and the connection can stay right inside this cutout area okay that looks good now I'm gonna do is press the servo all the way in and rotate this upwards and that's our test fit you can see the wire hanging out that's good and everything looks like it fits really well I'm going to open this up and now I'm going to fill this channel full of glue and apply glue all along here and then we'll fold it back I am going to be careful not to get glue and this cut out and this cut out over here as a glue is cooling and making sure that things are laying flat let this cool for a full minute once that's cooled down go ahead and fold your elevator all the way back I'm going to lay a ruler about a quarter inch from the edge when I cut a bevel yeah it looks good we're in a Peter blue now wipe away the excess using scratch make sure the elevator stays open while the glue cools I'm going to the next step go ahead and grab the 12 unlabeled formers we're going to glue these together in groups of three before we do that let's go ahead and cut the windows out now go ahead and glue these in groups of three once that's done go ahead and set these off to the side and grab the booms when I go ahead and pull the tape off these set the tape off to the side we'll be using it again here in just a minute at that time we had this edge tucked towards the center what we're going to do is we're going to flip this around and we're going to tuck this edge towards the center this time you can see here on the end how tight I've been able to roll this you can see where I've got a little bit too aggressive you can see a little bit of a pucker here you're probably going to get one or two of those it's alright it doesn't hurt performance I'm going to go ahead and put tape on here like I did before okay just like before tape that close and you want to leave this for about 30 minutes at least now let's do the other it's definitely getting easier to roll taking a lot of the spring out if you're doing this project over two or three days this is a really good stopping point for the day at a minimum you'll want to leave these world up for about thirty minutes but if you leave it overnight and then you go to glue it the next day it is much much easier the foam really holds its shape when left overnight going to remove the following parts from your kit over here I've got the two vertical stabilizers these two parts these two parts in these four parts make up the engine cowling the supercharger is made up of three parts main piece and these two little parts so you'll have one for the right side and one for the left side over here we've got the two power pods once you get all these parts pulled let's get started we're going to start with both the left and right engine cowlings so we're going to keep these parts and where I set everything else off to the side go ahead and remove paper from one side these pieces are all symmetrical so it won't matter which side that you remove now we're going to go ahead and form up the cowling go ahead and roll it over with the foam side down we're going to draw this over the edge of the table like we've done elsewhere now we're going to glue it together go ahead and tear off a couple pieces of tape go ahead and apply glue and again I'm going to use the paper on this side to slightly overlap the paper on this side check both ends to make sure there's no glue squirting out I can pinch them together add a piece of tape let's set that off to the side and do the same on this one now let's move on to the 2 remaining now let's do the front of the cowling as I draw this part over the table I'm going to be twisting it slightly what I'm trying to do is maintain 90 degrees between the table and the part so you can see as I'm drawing it I'm maintaining that 90 degrees okay we'll do this three or four times that should be enough that looks good now we'll do the last one once those four parts are glued together go ahead and set them off to the side and we're going to glue up the cowling intakes these pieces are going to be doubled up you'll notice that I left this rectangle in there then I glue the two pieces together I'm going to try not to get glue on this rectangle and if for some reason all these parts get broken up it's really no big deal I just leave that rectangle in there to keep everything from getting lost before I glue them together I am going to remove these three parts off the bottom right once that's done I'm going to apply glue here at the top on the sides and here at the bottom carefully line everything up and glue the two pieces together we'll repeat the same process on the other one like before go ahead and remove the three cutouts from each piece and we'll glue it together like you did the other look at the top glue on either side and glue at the bottom for now these can be set off to the side and allowed to cool go ahead and grab the two larger cowling sections and grab two of these formers what we're going to do is we're going to insert a former into each one I'm aligning the crop mark with the seam and pushing the former in well push the former down until there is one layer of foam sticking out okay that looks good I'm going to go ahead and do the other one again I'm lining up the crop mark to the seam [Music] you shouldn't need beveling to push the former down but if you're really struggling to get the former to fit you can put a small bevel to make it a little easier to go in okay that fit looks good looks like I need to twist this just a little bit there we go rather than pulling the former out and applying glue to the inside of the cowling skin we're just going to apply the bead of glue right along this edge all the way around I'm going to have a piece of scrap on standby because we want to remove all the excess glue okay let's do the same on the other one okay once that's done we'll flip it over and you can add glue along the inside you see I've got a little bit of pressure side to side I noticed when I was looking at it from the inside I had a small gap over here on this side I've got general pressure on the service while the glue cools down we'll set that off to the side and do the same on the other one oh my go ahead and add glue on the inside right along the edge go ahead and set these two assemblies off to the side to cool down and go ahead and grab the vertical stabilizers since our p38 is set up with differential thrust we don't actually need any rudder movement so what I'm going to do is I'm going to take each of these rudders and I'm going to break them open along the score I'm gonna fill this score with glue and lay it flat and remove the excess glue and we'll do the same on the other side and these can be set off to the side to cool now go ahead and grab the parts for the superchargers let's start out by gluing this piece in place you'll notice that it's pointing towards the front put a drop of glue right in the center and we'll drop this in place let's do the same on the other side drop a glue right in the center put that in place all right once that's done and do a test fit right here we're gonna drop this piece in all right you can see how it's got just a little bit hanging over that's what we want and we can roll this over on the bottom and just put a little small amount of glue doesn't take much to hold this in place okay and we'll leave that upside down for about a minute or so while things cool down let's do the same on the other lip it over let that cool down as well once that's cooled down one thing that I like to do is I like to cover this wide edge with a piece of paper and that can easily be done with a piece of scrap what I'll do is I'll take a cut out from one of the formers I'll lay my ruler down and I've got a little over an eighth of an inch between the edge of the ruler and the edge of the piece of scrap I'm gonna take my knife make a cut and I'm just gonna feel that piece of paper and what I'm going to do is I'm going to glue that in place right here and that just cleans things up a bit this is purely optional it's just something that I always do when I make the superchargers okay we'll do the same for the other side go ahead and set these parts off to the side while they cool down now we're going to go ahead and assemble the power pods grab your dull razor blade and go down each of the scores once that's done break it open and remove the center piece like the battery box these are an a fold so the sides will be above the bottom plate so that looks good multiply glue to one side and we're going to roll the center piece straight up let that cool for about 45 seconds and then we'll do the other side like before we're going to apply glue along the edge lay flat and roll the center section straight up let that cool for forty-five seconds and then we're going to do the same thing on the other power pod once the power pods are done go ahead and clear your tabletop we're gonna go back to working on the booms go ahead and grab one of your booms it doesn't matter which one you rent go ahead and remove tape be careful when removing tape that you don't peel away the paper underneath now with the tape removed you can see that the boom is holding its shape it's much easier to glue this seam together so we're going to start on this side and work our way towards the end let's start with a test fit I'm going to bring these two edges together and you'll notice that one edge is slightly further forward than the other so I'm going to ship things just a little bit you know I'm gonna go ahead and attempt to glue about 10 inches I'm looking at my seam and everything looks good I'll go ahead and put a piece of tape on one side and you can see that I'm not crossing this scene long doors put in a second piece of tape on one side I'm going to fold the tape backwards like I did on the first before I reach the scene let's go ahead and put a third piece on well okay my test things one more time I'm making sure that I'm lined up here at the front and also making sure my scene looks good so what I'm going to do is I'm going to apply a bead of glue on this side and when I stick the two halves together I'm going to make sure the paper on this side is slightly overlapping the paper on this side now with the edges pressed together I'm gonna move this center piece of tape across the seam now help hold things in place now I'm going to go ahead and tape here at the front and then I'll go ahead and run this last piece of tape across as well my seam looks pretty good looks like it's popping up here a little bit so I'm going to tear off a piece of tape and tape it there also when I apply tape once I get to the seam I'm going to press straight down and pull the tape tight this seam looks good now we're going to go ahead and do another section like before we're going to go ahead and get three pieces of tape ready apply glue you press the edges together if you've got a little bit of excess glue squirting out use a piece of scrap to remove it anywhere your seam looks good go ahead and run your tape across this looks like it's peeking up just a little bit and not perfectly flush so I'm going to tear off one more piece of tape and tape that up and apply tape to one side and once I get to the seam I'm going to press down slightly on the scene and then pull the tape tight once that tapes removed the two edges should be perfectly flush now we're gonna do the same thing here on the end so as we come to the end you'll notice that these two edges aren't quite flush I'm going to reach inside here and Bend this edge as best I can okay that's looking pretty good once we get tape across there we can press straight down and that ought to close that gap right there so let's get two pieces of tape and we'll get them staged over on one side once tapes in place let's go ahead and apply glue squeezing the sides together I pull the piece of tape up to the seam press down slightly and wrap the tape all around and you can see how the gap is completely closed here and over here you see I've got my fingers hang a glue be real careful on this step that you don't get burned pull the tape to the seam press straight down and then wrap the tape on a round I'll go ahead and get one more piece of tape here at the end you can see that that's opened up put a piece of tape right up there squeeze the two sides together press down in the center wrap go ahead and set this boom off to the side while the glue cools down and we'll start working on the other one let's start by removing tape all right this piece looks really good also as before we're going to start with a test fit and again I'm not only checking my seam I'm making sure that I'm lined up perfectly here as well okay that looks really good so I'm going to go ahead and stage three pieces of tape one more quick test fit okay it looks good go ahead and fly glue again make sure the paper on this side overlaps the paper on this side that'll keep glue from squirting up hey my seam looks good right there in the middle so I'm gonna draw this piece of tape across the seam this seam looks good so I'm gonna do the same upfront yeah there's a little bit of a gap here so I'm gonna pinch things together and then draw the tape across now it's really good let's go ahead and do the next section make sure you've got some scrap handy when we apply glue from here towards the back there's a greater chance of glue squirting up from the scene okay I might do a quick test fit here yeah that looks good you can see I've got my finger in the gap over here I want to make sure that I've got plenty of room to squirts and glue a little excess glue up here so I'm gonna wipe it away with scraps let's go ahead and glue this together anywhere the seam looks good run your tape across now we'll do this last section check our test fit a little harder to close this gap that I think we'll be able to work with that just fine it seemed looks good draw the tape across right there that closes that gap in we're on that tape across and that looks good there all right set that off to the side to cool and go ahead and grab the other one so for this next step we're going to be creating cutaways for the wings to pass through with the seam on the table you're going to notice an airfoil shape outline created by some dotted lines need to pull the tape away from these dotted lines make sure you've got about an inch of clearance all the way around do the same thing on the other side as well one of the challenges with this build is when the wings are passing through the boom there's a whole lot of stress here and back here so we're going to need to add some reinforcement and this only going to be temporary reinforcement what I found works best is this gorilla tape regular packing tape doesn't seem to work very well because it doesn't have much strength gorilla tape is very thick and very strong so what I'm wanting to do is I'm wanting to lay a piece of tape over this entire airfoil cut away so I'm going to start by tearing off a piece of tape that'll cover that entire airfoil cut out can you do the same on the other side as well once that's done I'm going to add a third piece of tape right along the leading edge [Music] we also need to add a piece of tape to the inside to add a little bit of additional reinforcement it's a little bit difficult to show this on camera so make sure whenever you are sticking this to the inside that the tape covers the entire outline of the airfoil I'll just cut away the excess tape and do the same on the other side I'll just cut away the excess tape once the tape is in place you can take a magic marker and you can draw a line you're just playing connect the dots make sure you're only drawing on the tape and that you don't get any on the paper itself on the bottom is perfectly flat so you can use a ruler if you like and do the same on the other side one last thing before we cut I'm gonna go ahead and insert this former temporarily I'm gonna line up the crop mark there at the bottom squeeze the sides and push this in to the fit here is a little bit tight so I'm going to pull the former out and I'm going to add a bevel here and here begin of the taper of the boom I'm going to need to remove quite a bit of material here at the bottom you can see I'm cutting into the second layer of felt as well take a little off the side here Kate let's test it you can see I've got one layer of foam poking out that's ultimately where we're going to want this piece the former is making sure that the boom is the right shape I'm going to go ahead and put my ruler flat up against the former and the edge of the ruler needs to be even with the bottom of this line it also needs to be even with the bottom of the line on the other side as well this is the path that the wing is going to take as I'm cutting I need to make sure that my blade is parallel to this ruler it's important to cut this angle correctly this will ensure a good tight fit it's something a little bit difficult to cut because you're cutting through a couple layers of tape and the foam so I'm just using a short sawing motion and carefully following the line really take your time on this step and things will turn out great once I cut this line on the bottom I'm gonna go ahead and cut the top line I'm going to look to see the approximate angle of my blade but pull my blade out keeping the angle and maintaining the same angle I'm going to go ahead and cut this curved line you can see my blade is pretty parallel to the tabletop now we're going to do the same on the other side I've got my ruler in place so I can get my angle correct we'll cut this like we did the other side and see that my razor blade is almost parallel to the table it's a little bit easier for me to cut from right to left now we'll do the same on the other one let's go ahead and start on the other boom go ahead and pull the tape back let's go ahead and add some reinforcement go ahead and cut away the excess LED tape to the inside go ahead and cut away the excess now we'll go ahead and trace the cutaways go ahead and grab your former and let's go ahead and cut a bevel along the bottom remember we're going to be going through two layers on this bevel let's go ahead and test fit I'm making sure that my crop mark is lined up with the seen it's like I've got one layer of foam sticking out all the way around that looks good now let's go ahead and cut out the wing slots so in this cut I'm going to do it a little bit differently than I did on the previous one last time I used a ruler to help determine the angle this time I'm gonna make sure that the boom is perfectly vertical but I want to leaned over to one side or the other I want to try to get it straight up and down I'm gonna hold my blade parallel to the table and plunge it in if using a ruler is helpful feel free to use it if not this method works great also let's do the same on the other side there we go now let's go ahead and install the booms on the wings go ahead and grab your main wing assembly you're going to notice that there's a crop mark about five and a half inches from the fuselage on the leading edge of the wing there's also a crop mark about seven and a half inches from the center of the wing on the trailing edge whenever we slide the boom in place the edge of the boom is going to come up to these two crop marks we're going to be working on the left wing first make sure that you've got the left boom if you're not sure which is which look inside the window right here at the top and you'll see either an L for left or an R for right go ahead and begin sliding the left wing through the slots in the left boom you can see as I'm sliding this over I'm twisting it back and forth we're going a little less than a half inch with each movement once I come to the edge of the aileron I'm going to make sure that nothing gets torn the closer I get to the center the tighter it's going to be the booms going to want to catch right here on the edge of the aileron so take your time when transitioning from the aileron to the trailing edge of the wing it's definitely starting to get tighter I'm being careful not to move the boom too much you'll notice that I'm moving the front just a little bit and then I'm coming back and moving it back just a little bit you can see that I've got the boom almost to the reference mark just going to move it a little bit more that looks good do the same at the front all right that looks really good now what I'm going to do is I'm going to remove the tape along this edge and this edge only once I remove the tape I'm gonna run a bead of glue right down this edge that's going to keep everything in place I'm actually gonna cut the tape right where it goes from one layer to two I'm gonna make sure that the edge of my boom is still lined up to the two crop marks that looks good and I'm going to add the bead of glue right along the seam now let's do the other side now let's go ahead and slide the right boom in place the same way we did the left [Music] looks like the boom is right up against the reference mark in the front and it looks like the boom is right up against the reference mark in the back that looks really good so we're gonna peel away a little bit of tape and again I'm going to cut the tape right where it goes from one layer to to add a bit of glue now we get to add tons and tons of wires now we've got the boobs tacked in place we're going to go ahead and install the servos for the ailerons go ahead and pop out the formers on either side then go ahead and set those off to the side and go ahead and remove the nose once that's done we're gonna flip this whole assembly upside down for the ailerons we're going to be using the flight test nine gram servo the servo extension wires may vary in color they may be the same color as the servo wires as you can see here these are black red and white and set up the brown red and yellow you can see that I've got the yellow wire running to the white wire once you get them connected go ahead and tape this up once that's taped we're going to go ahead and run the servo wire through the wing it may be necessary to hold the wing vertically in order to get the wire to feed through when remove the single servo arm from the kit as well as a small screw the servos do come factory soon you'll notice that I've got the servo arm pointing towards the wing tip also note the orientation of my servo go ahead and screw the servo arm down once that's done let's do the other side just like on the other side we're going to feed the wire through the wire will come out the center over here on my right this one isn't wanting to go so I'm gonna tilt the whole assembly vertical now that we've got both wires through we're going to go ahead and add a Y double checking that white ghost white black goes to black hey that looks good I'm going to go ahead and tape these joints once you've got the joints taped you're gonna notice a small opening here I'm gonna go ahead and run the wire into that opening into the battery box flip the assembly over so you can see where it needs to come out let's go ahead and flip the assembly back over its insert or servo and let's install this single arm like we did on the other side go ahead and screw it down till it's tight the control horns we're going to use for the ailerons have a slot cut in them make sure you grab the right ones when doing this step now they've got the servo in place we're going to go ahead and run the linkage to the aileron first thing I want to check is to see if there's any interference and you can see right here there's a little bit of interference so using a razor blade I'm gonna cut this edge back right clearance looks good now what I'm going to do is using a barbecue skewer I'm gonna run it up right down this little slit in the aileron flip it over use the dull side now I've got an opening that this control horn will easily fit in I'm looking to make sure that the hole and the control horn is directly above this hinge that looks good if the control horn needs to be moved backwards or come forward just a little bit you can remove it and open it up using a razor blade [Music] okay go and set your control horn off to the side for a minute go ahead and ring the Z Bend of the push rod through the outermost hole on the servo arm now we're going to make a bend directly over the hinge using a small pair of pliers I'm going to grab the wire directly above the hinge and I'm going to bend it towards the center of the aircraft once that's done I'm going to grab the wire right here and Bend the push rod straight back and making sure the Z Bend is directly over the hinge that looks good so I'm going to go ahead and cut off the excess once that's done let's go ahead and glue the servo in place it's going to pull it out slightly by a small amount of glue under each of these ears push down and I put a small bead of glue along the front edge here also do a small bead on the back edge let that cool down and we'll go ahead and install the control horn now that the servos glued in place go ahead and run the push rod Z Bend through the hole on the control horn and we're going to do a quick test fit I'm making sure that the aileron is in a neutral position and I'm going to test fit to make sure no further adjustments need to be made everything looks even across the back this looks good I'm going to pull this out and add some glue coming around in the neutral position that's cooling down I'm watching right here to make sure that nothing shifts go and let that cool down for a full minute once it cools let's flip it around and do the other side go ahead and glue your servo in small amount of glue under each tab and a small bead of glue on the leading edge side and the trailing edge side well that's going take your barbecue skewer and go ahead and open up this slit just a little bit starting with the pointed side and flip it around to the dull side just like before we're going to run the push rod through the outer most hole of the servo arm again I'm using a small set of pliers just like on the other side I'm grabbing the push rod directly above the hinge with a pair of needle nose pliers and I'm gonna bend the push rod towards the center then grab the push rod again right at the ninety degree Bend I'm gonna pull the push rod straight back looking to see Z Bend is directly above the hinge so let's go ahead and cut off the excess go ahead and run the Z bin through the hole in the control horn put the aileron at the neutral position let's get a test fit everything looks really close so I'm moving back just a tiny bit that looks good I'll go ahead and pull the control horn back out and apply some glue be sure this stays even as a glue is cooling down give this a full minute to cool go ahead and flip the assembly over now we're going to run the wiring for the elevator in order to make sure that we're running the wiring through the correct boom go ahead and grab your horizontal stabilizer assembly beside what the doubler needs to be facing the table the elevator extension will be approximately 36 inches long it's going to run through the boom all the way to the midpoint here on the wing and it's going to make a 90-degree turn and it's going to go to the center section and it's going to make another 90-degree turn and come out the battery box it's going to be a little tricky to run just take your time you'll get it go ahead and connect your extensions together the number and color of extensions may vary depending on the kit that you get the important thing is you have a minimum of 36 inches double check that everything is connected correctly and go ahead and tape up the joints this is going to be a little hard to video but the first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to run this all the way through the boom let's start by running the extension all the way through the boom you may need to turn your entire assembly up right in order to do this you might be able to feed it while it's flat once the extension is all the way through leave about an inch and a half or so hanging out the back fold it towards the center put a piece of tape on it taping it in place we'll make sure that it's not pulled up inside the boom while we're running it the rest of the way now that the wire has been pulled through we're going to feed it into this hole right here it's about a two inch by two inch square right in the center of the wing it's going to be a little tricky to show it on camera go ahead and flip the assembly over and you can see the extension is now coming out the center now we're going to feed the elevator extension into this small opening into the battery box okay I'll pull it off to the side and we'll go ahead and tape that in place while we're at it we'll go ahead and tape the WHI for the ailerons now that the elevator extension has been Linens we're going to go ahead and run the extensions for the ESC it's difficult to video the wire being fed from here through the wing and out the battery box the important thing to remember is the wire needs to be fed into this two inch by two inch hold on the bottom of the wings it'll go down make a 90-degree turn and it's going to come out this hole right in the center once a wire reaches here it's going to be fed into the battery box just like the previous wires once that's done we're going to go ahead and tape the wire to the outside of the battery box now let's do the same on this side the last thing we have to run is the power harness go ahead and flip your assembly upside down the power harness runs from the battery box it runs through this rectangle here at the center runs down the wing comes out the rectangle on the bottom of the wing and then one side gets connected to the ESC on this side and one gets connected to the ESC on the other side let's start by feeding it into this cutout in the center of the wing as I'm pushing from the center I'm going to catch the end of it as it comes out the hole in the bottom of the wing right once that's through go ahead and connect it with the ESC let's do the same thing on the other side the last step we're going to do is push this through to the battery box I must set the assembly straight up and down and push this through this is big enough we're not going to need to tape it in place it's not going anywhere with the wiring out of the way go ahead and set the assembly off to the side and we'll move on to the next step now we're going to go ahead and build the reinforcements for the booms you need these four pieces from your kit and these two wooden pieces let's start by gluing two of these together [Applause] make sure they line up exactly and we'll do the same on the other one let those cool down for about 30 seconds once they've had a chance to cool down you'll see a little step down at the back this wooden piece is going to be glued right here I'm gonna check the fit it looks good I'll put a heavy beaded glue along the back edge of this foam and glue this wooden piece in place well that's cooling down we'll go ahead and do the other one let this cool down for a full minute let's go ahead and grab our main assembly again and we'll go ahead and install these let's do a test-fit of the boom reinforcement the wooden piece goes towards the rear this gets fed underneath the wing and this will go all the way through the end of the boom the bottom of the wing will rest on this step down the trailing edge of the wing will rest against this vertical right here I'll go ahead and push this all the way through I'm pulling with one hand and pushing with the other I'm grabbing the wood as it comes out the back continue to pull the wood through until you see the step and push it back in and just slightly with a step even with the trailing edge of the boom I'm gonna flip the entire assembly around and I want you to see how the foam is now engaged with the underside of the wing once the reinforcement is in the correct position you'll notice that this thin piece will be able to rest flush against the underside of the wing our test-fit looks really good so now we're going to pull the reinforcement out and add some glue let's go ahead and pull the reinforcement out now we're going to go ahead and apply glue I'm going to apply glue all along the top all the way down to here I'm going to stop right before it steps down and gets narrow I'm also going to apply a bunch of glue right along this little narrow piece once we've applied glue I'm going to push the entire assembly all the way in until this step is even with the back of the boom once it's in I'm going to apply pressure to this skinny part on the underside of the wing while the glue is cooling down so let's go ahead and add glue all along the top here and all along here I'm going to be using a lot of glue adding a lot of glue is going to give us plenty of time to move this part around be careful to keep the glue right in the center because your hand is going to be inside here if any of it drips off it could burn you so if you see any glue coming off the side go ahead and wipe it away with a piece of scrap before you install the reinforcement [Applause] okay I've got the step even with the back of the boom I'm going to push up and hold this skinny piece against the bottom of the wing until the glue is cooled down I'm also going to keep a little bit of pressure right here this will make sure that reinforcement sticks to the top of the boom hold this for a full two minutes we definitely want to make sure this piece doesn't shift around you can see that I didn't quite get it centered left to right but that's okay now let's go ahead and do the other side the right boom is slightly more difficult because we've got the extension running to the elevator running the entire length so what I'm going to do is I'm going to go ahead and pull the extension wire tight pulling it tight will help clear the path for the reinforcement once you've pulled the extension tight go ahead and re tape it at the battery box I'm going to go ahead and pull the ESC towards the center and feed the reinforcement through I'm gonna pull until I reach the step in the wood okay there we go I'm going to make sure this skinny section will lay flush against the bottom of the wing okay that looks good let's go ahead and pull it out and add glue be sure as you're applying pressure to the underside of the wing you're also applying a slight amount of pressure with your other hand to the top of the boom towards the rear give this a full two minutes to cool once that's done we're going to go ahead and install the horizontal stabilizer go ahead and rotate the assembly to where the two wooden pieces are facing you if you look at the leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer you're gonna notice a small rectangular cutout one on this side and one on the other side right by where the wire comes out let's do a test fit the little wooden pieces that are sticking out of the back of the boom will slide right into those little rectangular cutouts okay that looks really good so before we glue it we're going to need to go ahead and connect the elevator to the elevator extension so let's pull this off let's remove tape from the extension and go and connect it to the elevator servo double-checking that I've got my yellow wire running to the white wire and I'll go ahead and tape it up now I'm going to make sure that I can shove this connector down into the boom I want to make sure that I've got clearance to do that okay it looks like it's going to go in without too much issue so the next step is going to be to fill this cavity and this cavity would glue in addition to that I'm also going to apply glue to the top of the wood here and here I'm going to go ahead and start over here on my left and then I must go ahead and insert the wood onto the right side as well I need to feed this connection in a little bit at a time as I push the two pieces together if the glue starts to cool just pull the wires out of the way and go ahead and shove everything closed give that a full minute to cool down and then we'll worry about pushing the remaining wires into the boom now the horizontal stabilizer has had a chance to cool down I'm going to flip the assembly upside down and using a barbecue skewer I'm going to go ahead and push the wire in all the way I'm going to go ahead and apply a small amount of glue here and over here on the other side that's cooling down we're gonna go ahead and flip the plane over with the nose of the aircraft facing us earlier we had test fit two formers one on the left and one on the right go ahead and grab those formers I'm gonna go ahead and reinstall a former into each side go ahead and push esc back just a little bit for the time being and then go ahead and get the former in one more time make sure the little crop mark at the bottom aligns perfectly with the same you can see I've got one layer of foam sticking out once that's in place let's go ahead and apply a line of glue all the way around once we do that we're gonna wipe away the excess with a piece of scrap let's do the same thing on the other side first we'll push the ESC out of the way I'll line things up at the bottom once the fit looks good let's go ahead and run a bead of glue all the way around be sure you've got a piece of scrap paint to wipe away the excess go and let that cool for about a minute then we'll go on to the next step now we're gonna go ahead and install the cowling go ahead and grab one of the cowlings it doesn't matter which one the two parts are identical and for starters we're gonna line up the seam with this small tick mark at the bottom this is just going to get us in the ballpark once we have this test fit we may have to clock it one way or the other it's very important that this cutout is lined up with this cutout so let's go ahead and do a test fit it seemed it looks good all the way around I'm going to look at it from the front and make sure that everything is lined up correctly what I'm wanting to ensure is that this rectangular cutout is lined up perfectly to the rectangular cutout behind it again if necessary you may have to clock this one way or the other but this looks really good let's go ahead and pull the cowling off we'll apply glue and put it back together go ahead and pull the cowling off and before we apply glue I'm going to go ahead and tear off several pieces of tape we imply a heavy beat of glue all along the inside edge again I'm going pretty heavy like we've done elsewhere so I'll have plenty of time to position the part okay before I start taking I'm gonna make sure that my square knockouts are lined up I had to make just a slight adjustment now anywhere the same looks good we're going to apply a piece of tape right here at the top looks really good well shift things over just a little bit so the side looks good you know flip things over and check the bottom that's cooling down we'll go ahead and do the other side let's go ahead and do a test fit the line that looks good and pull this off tear off some tape just like before we're going to add a heavy bead of glue that's going to side things together slight twist that looks really good and I'm applying tape anywhere the seam looks good okay everything looks good now let's go ahead and add the superchargers now we're going to go ahead and glue the superchargers in place in order to position the superchargers lay a ruler across the boom the edge of the ruler is even with the trailing edge of the wing right here along this scene that runs front to back put a small cut with a razor blade that is right where the back of the supercharger goes so what we're going to do is we're going to glue the supercharger right here visually it's centered left to right and we know that this is the back of the supercharger so I'm going to flip this over add a small line of glue and we'll glue this in place now let's do the same on the other side just like before I'm lining the ruler up to the trailing edge making a small mark on the center line I'm gonna visually line up supercharger left and right and apply some glue let's let that cool down and move on to the next step let's go ahead and attach the linkage to the elevator we're going to start with attaching the single arm onto the servo this is the same arm that we used on the ailerons go ahead and grab that in a short screw and let's go ahead and get it installed you'll notice that this slit is slightly offset from the servo when installing the arm make sure that it's pointing in the direction the slit is offset go ahead and screw it all the way in now using the pointed end of a barbecue skewer go ahead and open up the slit just a little bit you can flip the barbecue skewer around and open it up just a little bit more for a test fit or control horn notice this control one is different than the ones we used on the aileron this one doesn't have the pill-shaped slot there at the bottom just like on the aileron make sure that the hole is directly above the hitch that looks really good right there go ahead and pull the control horn out of the way for a minute and grab your push rod we're going to run the Z Bend of the push rod through the outer most hole in the servo arm and go ahead and rotate the push rod to where it's pointing straight back go ahead and grab the push rod with a small pair of pliers directly above the hinge and we're going to bend the push rod 90 degrees in the direction of the aircraft's right wing all right once that's done grab the push rod right at the ninety degree Bend and we're gonna bend the wire straight back okay I'm going to look to make sure the Z Bend is directly over the hinge that looks good so I'm going to go ahead and cut off the excess I'll run the Z Bend through the hole my control horn test fit things there's a test fitting I'm making sure that my elevator is in the neutral position to go see that it's slightly high so I'm gonna so I'm gonna make an adjustment with the fit okay that looks good I'll pull the control point out one last time apply some glue then reinsert as it's cooling down I'm holding the elevator in the neutral position once this cools down we'll go ahead and go the next step now that's cooled down let's go ahead and turn our attention to the power pods for this build we're going to be using the flight test 22:18 radials this is available from the flight test store as a twin C pack v2 to build up the power pods you're in need two motors two of the power pods and two of the firewalls let's go ahead and get started we're going to begin by attaching the firewall to the power pod notice I've got this small rectangular window at the bottom right as you're facing the power pod go ahead and apply glue to the face of the power pod and glue the firewall in place fireball will be flush at the bottom and it will stick up slightly here at the top let that cool down for about 30 seconds and then we'll do the other one just like the first we're going to position the firewall with the cutout at the bottom right as you're looking at it from the front again make sure it's flush along the bottom set that off to the side and let that cool down once that's glued in place we're gonna go ahead and put a piece of tape across the front the tape is going to really help keep the firewall in its place I'm gonna go ahead and wrap it on each side I'm going to flip it upside down and using a razor blade I'm gonna make it vertical cut at the corner now fold the sides in and we'll fold the front once that's done go ahead and remove tape from the center circle very important that you get all the tape removed from this area and also remove the tape from the square at the bottom right corner to make starting two screws a little bit easier go ahead and put a small puncture on these outermost small holes now let's do the same on the other side once that's done let's go ahead and add the Motors go ahead and position your motor where the wires are coming out the bottom right when you're looking at things from the front let's go ahead and feed the wires through the small rectangular hole at the bottom right till the wire is tight from the back once you do that the holes should line up with the bracket on the back of the motor to secure the motor to the firewall we're going to use four of these wood screws included with your motor go ahead and insert the screw about halfway in and we'll do the same on the other ones as well once all the screws are started press the motor up against the firewall and go ahead and snug all four of them down be careful not to strip out to spiral wall now let's do the same on the other motor once that's done go ahead and grab your airframe we're going to go ahead and connect the motors to the ESC and add the receiver now it's important to get the power pod on the correct side in order to determine which is the correct side go ahead and push the power pod up against the cowling you'll notice that the angle will match the angle of the wing so this is correct go ahead and pull the three wires from the ESC out of the front the cowling you may need a wire with a hook to grab it let's do the same on the other side so you'll have three wires sticking out on both sides let's go ahead and connect the three wires from the ESC to the three wires on the motor at this stage it doesn't matter which order they're connected let's do the same on the other side now that the motors have been connected we're going to go ahead and bind the receiver the receiver we're going to be using is the spectrum AR 620 for this step make sure your props are not installed go ahead and connect your battery to the power wire holding down the bind button on the receiver go ahead and plug the left motor into throttle one you'll notice that the orange light is flashing this means it's in fine mode for this setup we're going to be using the spectrum DX 80 over here on the left side there's a button at the top that I'm going to hold down this is the bind button holding down the bind button I'm going to go ahead and power up in order to bind I need to move the receiver approximately three feet away from the receiver once you hear the chime the binding is complete once I'm bound I'm going to go ahead and plug in the second motor [Music] once a second motor chimes we're going to go ahead and test the motor direction in this video we're only covering the basics for transmitter setup in programming check out the description below you'll find a link that covers setup more thoroughly the transmitter has already been set up with differential thrust now we're going to go ahead and check motor direction to ensure the props are spinning the correct way ideally what we want is the aircraft's left motor to be spinning clockwise as we're looking at it from the front so let's go ahead and check that again make sure you do not have your prop installed for this step okay it looks like it's turning counterclockwise so what we need to do is we need to switch two wires and it doesn't matter which two wires you switch once the two wires have been switched the motor will be reversed that looks good let's go ahead and tape things up once the wires have been taped we're going to go ahead and slide the power pot in you're going to notice this step down the step down is actually going to be resting on the underside of the wing we're going to push the power pot in until these two verticals make contact with the leading edge of the wing make sure that you keep the ESC pulled upwards as you slide the power pod in we're going to slide the power pot in until you feel its stop all right let's go ahead and do the other side all right looking at the motor from the front we want the motor to be spinning in a counter clockwise direction looks like this one is going in the wrong direction also let's go ahead and switch two of the wires check direction okay that looks correct let's go ahead and tape the wires and we'll go ahead and install the power pod again I'm making sure that I'm holding my ESC up so it doesn't bind with both motors in place let's just supply a small amount of glue along this edge and this edge in the bottom as well [Applause] let's do the same on the other side [Applause] while the glues cooling down let's go ahead and hook up the elevator and the ailerons go ahead and find the aileron why extension we're gonna plug that into channel number two that is the default channel for ailerons and then go ahead and find the extension for the elevator and we're gonna plug that into channel three which is a default channel for elevator now that that's plugged in we're gonna go ahead and test direction I'm gonna go ahead and check the elevator first when I pull the right stick backwards I want the elevator to go up okay it looks like the direction is correct but you'll notice that the elevator looks a little bit high let's go ahead and make a sub trim adjustment in order to make a sub trim adjustment go ahead and press the roller on the right this will bring up the functions list go ahead and go down to servo setup and click the roller scroll to the right to where travel is highlighted press the roller and go in and scroll over to the sub tram section press the roller again now we're going to cycle two elevator go ahead and click the roller and now we can adjust the sub trim of the elevator we need the elevator to go down just slightly now you can see that the elevator is flush with the trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer once it's done let's check the ailerons now let's go ahead and check a L'Orange when I move the right hand stick to the right the aileron on the right needs to go up you can see that the aileron is going down so we need to go ahead and reverse that in order to reverse the ailerons press the roller button on the right this will bring up your functions list and let's scroll down to servo setup go ahead and scroll to the right and highlight travel press the ruler once and now let's scroll over to reverse press the button again let's scroll over to aileron once aileron is highlighted hit your roller and that reverses it once it's been reversed go ahead and back out and now let's test it again I'm gonna move to the right hand stick to the right and we want the aileron on the right to go up that looks good we're all set let's go ahead and install the vertical stabilizers you'll notice that the scores are facing upwards these are the scores that we include a little bit earlier when we install the vertical stabilizers we're gonna want these scores towards the middle facing the servo let's go ahead and do a test fit these are just going to slide over the horizontal stabilizer they'll only go so far and then they'll hit the back of the boom these need to be centered right along the centerline of the boom the position looks good so I'm just going to move it slightly towards the center and I'm gonna put a line of glue right along here go and let this cool down for a full minute make sure that your vertical stabilizer is straight you don't want to twist it one way or the other once that's cooled down let's go and apply glue to the other side and then we will apply glue on the underside on both sides of the vertical stabilizer as well make sure your vertical stabilizer is straight up and down if needed you can take a ruler to double-check that you've got it perfectly vertical hold that for about 45 seconds all the glue cools down now let's do the same on the other side do a test fit looking to make sure it's right in line with this seam down the center of the boom that looks good I'm gonna move it towards Center just a little bit and align a glue and go ahead and hold that in place for about a minute once that cools down we'll go ahead and apply glue to the other side and then to the underside as well be sure to allow plenty of time for this side to cool down as well go ahead and grab these four parts we're going to go ahead and do a test fit on the cowling these two parts are identical so it doesn't matter which one you grab there's a crop mark at the bottom of this former let's go ahead and line that up with the seam at the bottom and let's slide that over you'll notice that it's probably going to be too tight since we've got a taper right here we're going to need to cut a pretty deep bevel along the bottom we're also going to need to cut a small bevel at the top let's go ahead and cut a bevel here at the bottom let's cut one at the top as well the one at the top doesn't need to be quite as extreme okay now let's go ahead in the test fit checking my alignment at the bottom my fit looks good it looks like I took a little bit too much material at the bottom that's okay I'm just gonna make sure and not take quite as much on the other side once I'm happy with the test fit we're gonna go ahead and glue this in place before we apply any glue I'm gonna go ahead and tear off four or five pieces of tape as we've done elsewhere I'm gonna apply a very heavy bead of glue all the way around the edge check alignment and go ahead and install like on other parts anywhere I see a scene that looks good I'm gonna put a piece of tape across it then work my way around flip my hair point over so I can get to the bottom and you push the seam closed at the bottom and tape that as well if I can close that gap a little bit walk looks like I'll have a little gap but that's alright that'll be on the bottom I'm go ahead and put one more piece of tape across that keep it held in place and since that was popping open I'm gonna go ahead and put a little glue in flip the plane back over I'm gonna squirt a little glue down along the bottom that will help hold that in place it's a little bit hard to see I just need to make sure that it get glue in there quickly let's go ahead and start with a bevel up at the top it's going to take a small amount of material and I go ahead and cut a bevel at the bottom I'm not going to take near as much as I did on the other side hopefully we'll have a little bit tighter fit okay you can see how much I took that time and you can see how much I took the first time let's do a test fit okay that fit looks a lot better I'm happy with that so we're going to go ahead and glue it first put a tape off [Music] go and apply glue all the way around line it at the bottom with the crop mark apply tape anywhere the scene looks good I'm going to tear off any excess tape that's sticking out past the end do the same on the other side as flip our plane back over now we're going to install the cowling intakes go ahead and break piece off the bottom with the intakes and we're going to put this at the bottom and we're not going to worry about lining it up to the scene what I'm more concerned with is that the top of this piece is perfectly parallel with the power pod I'm going to apply a pretty heavy bead of glue because it may take a little bit to get this piece exactly where we need it insert it make sure that it's aligned correctly and then I'm just going to gently pinch it at the top hold this for two minutes there's a lot of stress here and here and if it isn't fully cooled it's gonna pop apart once that's cooled down go ahead and break off the piece opposite to the first one you tore off this is going to get glued here at the top there's no crop marks to line anything up too so just like this bottom piece looking at it from the front it needs to be aligned to the power pod that looks good let's go ahead and glue it in place [Applause] we'll let that cool for about a minute now go ahead and break off one side or the other and we're just going to fit this part right between the top and bottom piece if the top and bottom piece are aligned correctly this one will drop in exactly where it needs to be let that cool for about 30 seconds and we'll do the other side hold that for about 30 seconds and we're going to do the same thing on the other side go in and remove all four intakes from your kit we're going to go ahead and lay them out before we start peeling paper I want you to take special notice that over on one side you're going to see a very small - you can see it here you can see it here and you can see one here this set has been mirrored I've got the dash here here in here I've got this second set laid out all the dashes are lined up here here and here and this last intake is mirrored with the dashes here here and here let's go ahead and peel off the top layer be very careful that you don't flip the parts around let's just go ahead and peel the paper with them laying flat on the table once it's been done we're going to work with one group of three at a time so being very careful to keep all the pieces together go ahead and move each group of three that we're not working on off to the side what we're gonna do now is we're gonna flip these parts over and we're gonna roll them just like we've done elsewhere in the video now these three parts are going to be glued together again I'm checking to make sure that the - here here and here are all facing one direction so the first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to do a test fit between these two parts once they're completed they're gonna be shaped about like this you can see I've got a little bit of a gap right here so I want to remove a small amount of material from this side you can also remove material from this side as well it doesn't really matter and we'll test fit again okay it looks good when I glue these together it generally takes three separate beads of glue so I'm going to do is I'm going to go ahead and tear off three pieces of tape and then we'll go ahead and glue these two pieces together we apply glue about a third of the way from one end and the paper on this side is going to overlap the paper on this side hold this for about 45 seconds and then you'll be able to put a piece of tape across the scene all right once that's done I'm going to flip it upside down apply glue to about a third flip it back over and kind of scissor that closed where the glue is squirting towards the inside the seam looks good when you put a piece of tape across that when you can and will glue the last section flipping it back over my glue clothes that imply tape it comes together a little bit easier when you go ahead and bend it into its final shape let that cool down for about a minute and then we'll go ahead and attach this piece go ahead and tear off three small pieces of tape let's check the fit between these two parts okay it looks like we've got a pretty good gap in there so we're going to remove a little bit of material then let's test fit that again all right that looks good I think I can glue this about halfway let that cool down just a bit and then you can put a piece of tape across it once it's cooled down let's go ahead and glue the rest of it for about 45 seconds you can add a piece of tape that's cooling down let's go ahead and do the other three exactly the same way once everything's had a chance to cool down we're going to be adding a bevel at the top and at the bottom I'm going to be going in with a razor blade and cutting a very shallow bevel so help them fit really snugly to the boom so you can see how much material I've removed we're going to do the same thing on the bottom that looks good let's go and do the same thing on the remaining three once that's done go ahead and grab your ear frame and we'll glue the intakes in place let's start with the air frame upside down we're going to go ahead and remove tape from the trailing edge of the wing to the leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer again be very careful when removing tape that you don't remove the paper underneath once the tapes been removed let's flip the plane back over [Applause] if you look closely along the top of the boom you're going to notice for reference marks one here one here one here and one here these reference marks will help you correctly position the intakes each boom will have a left intake and a right intake if you look closely I've got one of each in my hand you'll notice that at the center you'll see those little tiny crop marks the crop marks are going to be facing downward let's go ahead and start with the outside one what I'm gonna do is I'm going to align the back of the intake with this rear crop mark in the front of the intake to this forward crop mark in that position looks good so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna run a bead of glue along here and we're gonna glue the top the intake in place except I've got a little excess glue I'm gonna grab a piece of scrap and remove that hold this in place for about 45 seconds and then we'll do the other side checking to make sure that these little crop marks are down and I'm gonna do a test fit here at the top I'm aligned good at the front and I'm aligned good at the back so I'm going to apply a little bit of glue hold that in place for about 45 seconds and we'll rotate the airplane around and do the other side just like before and put my small crop marks to the center let's set this one over to the inside and we'll start with the outside one line that looks good and we'll hold that in place while the glue cools now let's go ahead and do the inside one test fit looks good hey I'm going to I'm going to pull the tape back just a little bit once it cools down we're gonna flip the plane over and do the same thing on the bottom let's go ahead and flip the plane over we will glue the bottom of the intakes just like on the top there's reference marks here here here and here just do a test fit on this inside one that looks good let that cool for 45 seconds we'll do the other one now we'll do the other side test-fit looks good once that cools down we'll do the other side just the same once that's cooled down we're going to go ahead and close in the remaining section of the fuselage underneath the wing go ahead and pull the following parts out of your kit these parts will be labeled b6 b7 and b8 let's start by removing one layer of paper be sure and remove the side with the label on it once that's done we're gonna go ahead and roll these parts and then glue them together these will be shaped just like all the other parts we've done all right once that's done we're going to glue these three pieces together and I'm gonna start with a quick test fit a my seam looks good I'm gonna go ahead and tear off a couple piece of tape I think I'll be able to glue this together in one pass when it sits together you can go ahead and put a piece of tape across the scene put a piece on the other side also let's test fit this other piece okay that seam looks good I'll go ahead and tear off a couple pieces of tape believe we can attach these two pieces with two passes of glue I'll start by applying glue to one side let it cool down then we'll do the other let that cool for about 45 seconds and I'll put a piece of tape across we'll go ahead and glue the other side we'll hold this for 45 seconds and go ahead and add a piece of tape because it's cooling go ahead and grab your ear frame and we're going to turn the aircraft upside down on the tabletop once these three pieces have cooled down we're going to go ahead and close in the underside of the fuselage let's go ahead and start with a test fit and if you notice I've got a pretty big gap down here at the bottom and that's okay this piece shouldn't be glued in place so to get rid of that gap go ahead and squeeze this together slightly let's try test fitting again you can see that that gap is starting to close up there we go that looks good now let's go ahead and glue one half with a fuselage together go ahead and get a couple strips of tape ready go ahead and apply a heavy bead of glue and go ahead and stick things together give this a full minute and a half to cool before moving on to the other side let's go ahead and test fit the other side squeeze this in just a little bit there we go that looks good go ahead and apply glue along this edge these piece of tape to remove this blob of glue just like on the other side I'm going to let this cool down for a full minute and a half send her quite a bit of pressure so you really have to hold it in place until the glue is fully cooled go ahead and Center this point up where the wings meet up it may have to be pushed one way or the other I'll move this over just slightly okay that's where I'm going to want to glue the underside of the fuselage back it out of the way a little bit of glue right here move this over and press down be careful not to get your thumb in the glue let that cool down and then we'll go ahead and close up these gaps on either side once that's cooled down go ahead and remove the tape with the tape out of the way go ahead and squeeze the sides together you'll notice that this gap on the underside of the wing is going to close so we're in do is we're gonna keep pressure on it and we're going to run a bead of glue all the way along this edge make sure you give yourself plenty of time to allow the glue to fully cool down the foam is under a lot of pressure and it's gonna want to spring open unless the glue is had time to fully cool I'm gonna let this cool for a full two minutes once it's cooled down go ahead and flip your airplane around and let's do the other side just like on the other side I'm going to squeeze things together once the gap is closed up I'm going to go ahead and apply glue all the way along to this edge we'll get that a full two minutes to cool down when sets done we're gonna go ahead and tear all the tape off the underside including the clear gorilla tape we use to reinforce the booms now that all the masking tape and gorilla tape has been removed off the bottom we're going to go ahead and add a bead of glue on either side of the boom we're gonna add a line here and one on the other side and then we'll do the same thing on the other boom before we add a line of glue I'm going to make sure this is a nice straight line it looks like it's bowed out just a little bit so I'm going to squeeze things here in the middle now it looks like I've got a straight line once I'm happy with that I'm going to go ahead and run a small bead of glue all the way down that seam [Applause] I'm gonna keep a little bit of pressure here in the center while the glue cools down give that a minute and a half and we'll do the other side now that glued this side I'm going to glue this other side that side looks good I don't think I'm gonna have to hold it in place so I'm going to go ahead and flip the plane around and do the other side hey I'm gonna check my line it looks like it's bowed out a little bit right here squeeze it lightly and add a bead of glue once that cools I'll do the other side once that cools down we're going to go ahead and flip the aircraft back over we're going to go ahead and remove the tape add the props and then add the guns with the aircraft right side up go ahead and remove any remaining masking tape and gorilla tape now that all the tape has been removed we're going to go ahead and add one more line of glue on each wing if you remember we've already added a bead of glue here so we're going to go ahead and add a bead of glue here towards the wingtip now let's do the same on the other side is that's cooling down let's go ahead and add the props let's go ahead and start with the left motor if you remember this is set up to turn clockwise when looking at it from the front and now we'll go ahead and mount a counterclockwise one on the right motor now that the props have been installed it's time for my very favorite part of the whole build it's time to add guns lots of guns now there's two reasons why I like adding guns to this particular aircraft first of all the aircraft just doesn't look right unless you've got five machine guns sticking out the nose the second reason is this is the very last step once we get the guns installed this thing is ready to fly for this step you're going to need a barbecue skewer and the nose of the airplane you'll notice this barbecue skewer is black I went ahead and spray painted it you can also make it black with a permanent magic marker or a paint pen or you can just leave it unpainted if you look at the nose of the aircraft you're gonna see five holes this is where the five machineguns are gonna go what I'm gonna do first is I'm gonna run the skewer in you'll notice this the dull side I'm gonna go ahead and run this straight in come on do that on each hole this will make sure that each of the guns points straight forward if I don't do this the guns are going to want to point up you can see I'm bending the foam down just slightly alright once that's done I must set the nose off to the side just for a second I'm going to start by first cutting the skewer into four inch and a quarter segments the way I do that is I put my razor blade at the inch and a quarter mark I press down and I roll the skewer this will create a cut all the way around I'll roll it back and forth a couple times and then I'll break it go ahead and cut a second one this is also at an inch and a quarter we'll do the same on the third and the fourth one the last one is going to be cut a little bit shorter we're going to cut it off right at an inch okay hold on to that short one when looking at the nose of the aircraft from the front we're going to insert this short one all the way over to the right as we're looking at it we're going to push that all the way in until it bottoms out against a former inside here go ahead and grab one of the inch and a quarter segments and we're going to put it in the one that's all the way to the left this one go all the way in until it hits the former as well let's move over one and we're going to push this one in but not quite as far as this one all the way over on the left then we'll go ahead and push this one in and you'll notice that this one is sticking out the furthest this one is a little bit shorter and then this one is even shorter yet just leaves the one in the center at the bottom and we'll just push it in or you've got about a half inch sticking out so you can see how they're kind of staggered just a little bit all right once we've got these things test fit we're going to pull each one out put in a drop of glue and then set them in for good we'll let the guns cool down just for a minute or so while the glues cooling go ahead and take your receiver we're gonna push it up inside alright let's go ahead and put the nose back on and with that our p38 is complete as good as this looks on the table it looks way better up in the air well you say we go find some batteries and get this thing flying

Channel: Flite Test Tech

Views: 325,577

Rating: 4.6463413 out of 5

Keywords: Flite Test, remote controlled, unmanned, drone, rc, uav, rc hobby, rc shop, build, how to, p-38, flite test master series

Id: UVboiF0TuRQ

Length: 213min 11sec (12791 seconds)

Published: Fri Oct 18 2019