How to Build and Install Shaker Cabinet Doors

today I'm gonna show you how I made these cabinet doors and drawer fronts so this is the wood I'm going to use on this project this is a superior alder it's pretty free of knots which is kind of the look we're going for it's four quarter meaning it's an inch thick and this is just rough lumber so I'm gonna get started by milling this down which I'm not going to cover in this video but you can also get this stuff pre milled if you don't have any of the equipment to mow it down yourself a quick anatomy lesson on a cabinet door the parts that I'm gonna be referring to are the rails which are the horizontal pieces the styles which are vertical and then the center panel and this is the same for a cabinet door and a drawer front the drawers are just a little bit wider than they are tall okay so I got all my rough cut lumber here and see we got one edge jointed I'm playing down to just over 3/4 rails are gonna be two and a half inches wide you can see here this guy is like six so that board is going to give us two rails so our next step is to rip these down low table saw let's get going [Music] so I got all my rails and styles cut to width and next I need to get them cut to length I've already gone through and cut one end of each rail and style to square up that end and then I put that square end against this little scrap block which I have measured to the correct distance and then I cut the other end [Music] what I'm doing here is getting ready to glue the center panels together since the panels are a little bit wider than one piece of wood I had to glue two pieces together so I'm just drawing a triangle on my panels so that I can orient them again in the future then I get the edges cleaned up and here I'm gluing those panels together I'm being as careful as I can to glue these together flat but I'm not too worried about it because I'm gonna come back and plane these down to half an inch thick once they're all glued together if you were to buy stock that is already half an inch thick then you just want to be extra careful here to make sure that the panels are nice and flat so you don't have too much sanding to do after they're glued up [Music] so let me show you what we got here choose styles to Rails for our take shape here's our panel and you can see our panel is the same width as this inside dimension here that's because we still need to cut a joint right here our rail is going to go inside of our style a half an inch but the panel should be about an inch longer in this dimension and it is and that's because the panel is going to go inside the rail and the style is half an inch so what we need to do now is cut a rabbet along each side of our panel and that rabbit is going to be just over half an inch I'll probably like three-quarters of an inch so that it goes half an inch into our style or into the rail and then we have about a quarter inch reveal as well and the what's left is going to be about a quarter of an inch thick so if you're looking at the front of the cabinet this panel will be a quarter of an inch back from the front face but it's gonna be flush on the back I've got the dado stack set up here in a table saw it's 3/4 of an inch wide and 1/4 of an inch tall and I'm gonna run that around all four sides of each panel if you don't have a dado stack you can make all of these cuts with a standard saw blade you'll just have to make a cut and then adjust your fence and make another cut until you get the right width next I'm going to cut the groove or the dado into all of the rails and the styles and again I have the dado stack set up this one is 1/4 of an inch wide and half an inch tall and you just want to make sure that you get this right in the center of the board all right we got all of the dedos or grooves cut and our rails and our styles and see the panel fits in there nicely our next step is we need to cut a tongue add in the end of each rail then we've got a style here so when we cut the tongue that rail is gonna fit right inside of the style back to the trusty dado stack again I have this set up at half an inch wide and a quarter of an inch tall and then each rail gets cut on both sides at both ends and this is just on the rails so that they can go inside of the styles okay so here's one of our doors just got it dry assembled here see a rails go into our styles panels in the middle nicely our panels flush on the back and the panel just floats inside those rails and styles so that's it as far as cutting out everything we're ready to get this put together one thing I'm going to do first is sand down this panel and actually pre stain it and that's because since it's floating you know as temperature changes humidity changes the panel might creep out a little bit so I want to make sure that you know all the way inside the rail and the style is stained so if it does creep out it won't show a little bit of unstained wood [Music] I'm now gonna sand this inside part of the rails and the Stiles before I glue the doors up and this will be a lot easier to sand now than it will be once they are assembled I'm using a lot of glue here with a brush on both sides of that tongue and then also both sides of the dado and I'm trying to make sure if I do get squeezed out that it goes towards the outside of the door and not towards the center panel just because it's a pain to clean that glue out of that inside corner if you do get glue squeeze-out there another thing I did off-camera was make sure that these doors were square once they were glued up [Music] here I'm setting up to drill the holes for the hinges I drilled a bunch of holes in a scrap piece of wood and adjusted my fence each time until I got it right where I needed it and then I'm just gonna make a little mark on my fence so I know approximately where the center of that hole is gonna be [Music] now I'm just gonna make a mark three and a half inches up from the bottom of the door and then three and a half inches down from the top and this dimension doesn't matter I just wanted it to be consistent across all the doors [Music] [Music] I like to do my last round of sanding with 220 grit by hand that way I can just see any imperfections and fix those and that's what I'm doing here this is my DIY spray booth system that actually works really well you can see there I put just a couple eyelets in the cabinet door and then you can hang it from just a standard hanger you just want to make sure here that you keep track of which side of the door is the top and the bottom and for example these cabinet doors are for a bathroom so they're all lower cabinets and I put those eyelets on the bottom side of the cabinet doors what if it was kitchen and you had some upper cabinets you would want to make sure you put those eyelets on top and once you get everything installed you'll never see these holes that the eyelets leave and it allows you to spray all four sides of the door at once and I probably should be wearing a respirator here but this is actually during the middle of the code 19 lockdown and my respirator broke fortunately that little fan setup with the filter in front of it works pretty well and I couldn't even smell these fumes but don't be like me wear your respirator all right I just wanted to show you guys real quick you don't have to go with a natural wood look and you can still use this process this is our kitchen we went with white cabinets the only difference is I used poplar for the rails and styles and then just a piece of quarter inch MDF for the center panel instead of actual hardwood and then I just painted it all white getting ready to install the handles I like to put some tape over the holes that I'm not going to be using on my template it can really ruin your day if you end up drilling through the wrong hole and then I will come with a really small pilot bit from the backside using my template and then I'll flip the door over and use the correct size drill bit for the screws that I'm going to use drilling from the frontside [Music] this is a VIX bit which I have set up in my drill and this drill bit automatically centers itself in the hinge hole which is really nice and then I'm using an impact driver here to install the screws but I'm being super careful and not even letting the impact click because I do not want to overdrive these screws these little spacers I'm using are called drywall shims you can get them at your local big box store but they're just little cardboard shims that are 1/16 of an inch thick and you can actually rip them in half and get them down to 1/32 but they're super handy for stuff like this I can get all my gap set to what I wanted to be and get everything in mind I attached all the drawer fronts using screws into the hardware holes and then I'll pull each drawer out and permanently attach the front with screws from the back this piece is just a false drawer front because it's right in front of the sink so I'll just clamp it in place and then again I'll come from the backside and permanently attach it with some wood screws [Music] again I'm using the impact driver here what you'll want to be extra careful make sure you don't overdrive those screws [Music] here's the final product thanks for watching this video I hope you liked it and I'll see you on the next one

Channel: Josh Weight

Views: 36,896

Rating: 4.9174194 out of 5

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Id: qZWbcFYKcw4

Length: 13min 46sec (826 seconds)

Published: Mon Jun 22 2020