Build Shaker Cabinet Doors With Table Saw | New to Woodworking?

if you're new to woodworking let me show you  an easy way to make a shaker cabinet door just   using a table saw and a standard 10 inch blade  there are two common methods used today to make   a shaker cabinet door the first method utilizes  a router table and a pair of router bits that   are specifically designed to make doors the other  method utilizes a table saw with a stacked dado   which is a stack of blades that when added  together removes large amounts of material   quickly and cleanly leaving a professional look  and fit but because you're just getting started   you probably don't have a router table or dado  set and that's fine because you can still build   a great-looking quality door without them it's  important to understand and know the difference   between the door style and a door rail suits  you can correctly measure and assemble the   door cabinet rails just like handrails on a  porch run horizontally while the styles run   vertically when assembled the rails fit in between  the styles and this is important to know so that   you can cut your styles and rails to the proper  length when it comes to the width of the styles   and rails the standard size is about two and a  quarter inches but depending on your specific   overall cabinet or drawer size anywhere between  two and two and a half inches is acceptable to   get a quick estimate of the amount of material  you need for each door measure the height of the   cabinet opening and multiply by two then measure  the width and multiply that by two measuring this   way gives you a little extra material for mistakes  and adjustments to get started rip the material   down if you need to to your desired width with  that done it's time to start cutting the styles   and rails to the length the styles are easy as  they are cut to the exact door height which in   my case is twenty three and a half inches the  rails on the other hand are not cut to the exact   door width and require a little bit more math to  figure them out the total door width needs to be   seventeen and a half inches but if you remember if  the rails fit in between the styles so you'll have   to deduct for those and then add two three-eighths  Tenon's to each rail therefore the math looks like   this the total door width seventeen and a half  inches - two styles and two and a half inches   each giving us a total of twelve and a half inches  then we're going to add to that 3/4 of an inch for   both Tenon's for a total rail length of the and  a quarter inches and don't worry if you didn't   follow that exactly it'll all make sense once  I start putting the door together after cutting   the Stiles and rails to the proper length it's  time to run a groove in all four pieces raise   your saw blade up to 3/8 of an inch and slide  the fence over to align the blade in the center   of the board and don't worry it doesn't have to  be exactly Center just make it close once set up   properly run all four pieces through carefully  holding each board tight to the fence and tight   to the table once all four pieces are done grab  a smaller scrap of the same material and run that   through as well so this scrap piece so actually  be used as a test to get the exact location of   the fence so that the groove is in the center  and sized exactly to match the thickness of the   plywood panel the panel material that we're using  on this project is about a quarter inch thick so   we'll have to adjust the fence slightly to make  our groove wider once the adjustments made make   a second pass and this time slip the board in  for N and run it through again what this does   is centers the groove creating an equal amount  of material on either side with that done it's   time to check the fit with the plywood it  needs to be snug but not too tight as you   can see we need to go back to the table saw and  make another micro adjustment to the fence so   that the groove is slightly bigger they get run  one side then flip the board and run it through   again this time around it seems to be a perfect  fit not too tight and not too loose now that we   know that the test piece fits it's time to run  all the Stiles and rails through at this point   the two styles are done now it's time to start  milling the Tenon's on each end of the rails to   set up for that milling operation the first thing  you need to do is to add a scrap block of wood to   the fence about two and a half inches back from  the blade this block can be used as a guide to   set the proper distance to cut the 3/8 Tenon's and  to prevent kick back during the milling process to   get started grab your test piece again and set  it next to the blade slowly lower the blade down   until your just below the side wall of the dado  the next step is to make a three-eighths mark down   from the end which marks the total length of the  tenon with the fence loose place the rail against   the block and move the fence and the rail at the  same time in or out to line up the blade with   the three-eighths mark it's a good idea to keep  the blade slightly inbound of the pencil line to   start once you're happy with their settings lock  the fence down with the solve running slide the   Braille over tight to the block and then advance  the rail through the blade using the miter gauge   now that the first pass is complete flip the rail  over and repeat the same process with the Tenon's   shoulders now cut nibble away the remaining amount  of material creating the face of the Tennant once complete it's time to test the fit with  the styles and as expected it's a little too   tight and that's fine remember you can always  remove more material but you can never put it   back on so now that we know that the tenon  is too tight its back to the table saw raise   the blade ever so slightly and repeat the same  milling process as before with a little effort   this time the tenon goes in to the groove nicely  but another problem arises see the gap here to   fix that it's back to the table saw to adjust the  fence away from the blade to make this tenon just   a bit longer with those adjustments made you can  see that the tenon is now bottoming out in the   end wall and it's fitting really well now that  the test piece works and the adjustments on the   saw or dial then run all four ends of the rails  to create their Tenon's I do want to make you   aware that because we're not using a stacked dado  the single saw blade can leave some jagged marks   on the joints so if you're standing your doors  you may want to clean those up with a chisel of   plain or even just some sandpaper wrapped around  a block just make sure you clean those up before   you dial your saw in because this will affect  the way your Tenon's fit the last thing to do   before assembling is to get the measurement for  the quarter inch panel to do that loosely fit the   rails to the Stiles and make marks at each tenant  location then measure between the two lines and   subtract an eighth of an inch to get the width  of the panel subtract an eighth of an inch from   the total rail length which includes the tenon at  the table saw cut the plywood down to the correct   dimensions I do strongly recommend dry fitting  everything before adding glue just to make sure   that everything looks good once you're confident  set the door parts between two clamps and glue one   side of the door making sure to get good coverage  on all surfaces of the tenon and there's no need   to glue the panel so gluing goes pretty quick now  that the glue is on assemble one side by pressing   the tenant's into the grooves then slide the  panel into place from there glue the remaining   two Tenon's and press the whole assembly together  be sure the tighten the clamps evenly and look to   make sure that the door is also tight to the  underside of the clamp you don't want the door   the write up on the edge creating a warp if  you do find a high side lightly tap it down   the very last thing to check before the glue  sets up is the squareness of the or to do that   measure from one corner to the opposite corner  and then do the same thing on the other corners   these numbers should be the same or close if your  door is square as long as we did a good job at   cutting each individual piece so that they're  the same size once everything goes together I   don't think you're gonna have any problems mine  here is about a sixteenth of an inch off and   I'm not gonna worry about it now that everything  is flat and square let the glue dry well before   sanding everything down now depending on what  type of hardware you're going to be using on   the door you're going to want to do those milling  operations first before any painting or staining   begins this door will be receiving european-style  hinges that are inset into the frame by drilling   35 millimeter holes into the Stiles to lay out  for those hinges mark 4 inches down from the   top and 4 inches up from the bottom then use a  jig to locate the center lines for the correct   amount of offset from there set up a 35 millimeter  Forstner bit in the drill press and drill 2 holes   making sure the drill to the proper depth after  paint or stain follow the hinge manufacturer's   directions for proper installation well there  it is one complete shaker-style door if you have   any questions leave them in the comment section  below thanks for watching see everybody next week

Channel: Training Hands Academy

Views: 1,302,349

Keywords: how to, table saw, shaker style, home improvement, build shaker cabinet doors, build shaker cabinet doors with table saw, build shaker style cabinet doors, build shaker doors, beginner woodworking, beginner wood projects, woodworking, diy, cabinet door, shaker style doors, woodwork, diy cabinet doors, how to make cabinet doors, how to make shaker doors, woodworking projects, shaker style door, carpentry, tongue and groove, do it yourself (hobby), training hands academy, beginner

Id: OdImx4h0MWo

Length: 8min 37sec (517 seconds)

Published: Thu Mar 26 2020