Tongue & Groove Router Bits & Shaker Style Cabinet Doors

hey new BD I'm here I'm going to show you how use this tongue and groove router bit set to make basic shaker style doors I'll explain how these bits work and how to use them and give you some tips along the way if that sounds interesting to you stick around quick warning router bits are very sharp if you cut yourself first don't blame me and second join the club here's some quick definitions if you need more information pause the video or hit up google styles rails grooves going both the Stiles and rails rails have tongues panel goes in the grooves rail tongues go in the style grooves you can cut tongue and groove joints using a table saw without spending money on a router bit set if you want more information check out this video by Jay Bates links for everything are in the description below but I tried it on my table saw and had problems because I'm Murphy and carnate and everything that could go wrong did go wrong no video of the mistakes though sorry so I bought this Freud adjustable router bit set from Amazon and boy am I glad I did much less to go wrong the bits have half inch shanks they both have two blades and shims that can adjust the cuts anywhere from seven thirty seconds of an inch to 3/8 of an inch thick the tongues and grooves are a hair over seven sixteenths of an inch deep and you can't change that Freud router bits usually come in packages like this or this if you can't figure out how to open them there's usually a strip along here that you can peel away remove the clear plastic top however you can without getting cut not as easy as it sounds removing the bits without shedding blood is tricky unless you know the secret there's a hole underneath the bit and you can stick something in it to force the bit out I usually use a hex key the bits look sort of opposite of what they make the one that looks like a tongue actually cuts a groove and the one that has a groove in it actually cuts the tongue let's look at the groove cutting bit first the bits are too large for my router plate insert so I just left it off I probably should get one with a bigger hole to remove the nut you need to keep the router from turning and my collet extension has a hole I can use for that the first thing underneath the nut is a washer that's a smaller diameter than the shims don't misplace it after that our shims of various thicknesses then the bearing for the groove bit there's a thick shim that goes between the bearing and the top blade it might be a washer but as far as I can tell is the same thickness as one of the shims you need this here or the bearing won't spin you take the top laid off when you want to change the width of the groove careful getting it off you can easily cut yourself in between the blades there may or may not be some shims I'm removing all of them so I can figure out the minimum width this bit can cut when you put the blade back on make sure the teeth are facing the same direction on both blades they're designed so the teeth won't touch each other if you align them right put on one of the thick shims than the bearing then put all the remaining shims on not only is this a good way to not lose anything but the threads for the nut only go down a certain distance so you have to put all the shims on either between the blades or on the top otherwise you won't be able to tighten the nut down far enough put the little washer on the top then the nut as I just mentioned I want to measure the narrowest groove this bit can cut so I lined up the bit at about the middle of a scrap piece and I moved the fence up until it was in line with the bearing I've got it so the straight edge just barely moves the bearing then I cut the groove and measured it it looks like it's about 0.2 to 3 inches so I wrote that down and I keep this paper with the router bits for future reference so I can figure out what shims to add to get a desired width now let's look at the tongue cutting bit remember how the groove cutting bit has the bearing on top of the blades the tongue cutting bit has the bearing in between the blades there's the nut and the little washer just like the other bit and some shims there's no washer between the blades and the bearing because it has these raised parts instead there weren't any shims inside this one so I put the bearing back on then the top blade making sure the teeth point to right direction you can position the teeth however you want with respect to each other because the bearing keeps the teeth from touching then I put on all the shims the little washer and the nut I lined it up in the middle of the scrap piece and moved the fence in line with the bearing just like before here's something that's extremely important the tongue cutting bits blade sticks out above the top of the stock that means if you push the stock with your hand this can happen to your hand so use a push block and preferably keep it away from the bit I measured the tongue and it's point one ninety nine inches I write it on the same piece of papers before like I said I keep this with the bits I want the grooves to be just a little wider than the thickness of the panel so I struggled to get a measurement on camera but I measured it off camera so I know it's 0.26 zero inches I do some math to figure out how thick I need the shims to be then I gather the shims and I decide on something like a hundredth of an inch wider than the panel I'm just guessing here I've never been a good judge of sighs my wife claims that all men are like that I don't know what she means by that I need to remove the top blade so I can add the shims it doesn't seem to want to come holy crap that was close I add the shims and put the blade back on with the teeth pointing in the right direction had a thick shim than the bearing then add everything else I get everything set up and make the test cut it looks like it's right so I cut the groove all the way through and check it again and it still looks good so take that wife I can judge the size of small things what are you laughing at the next step is to Center the groove I'll never get it perfectly centered so I'm putting tape on one side of the stock I'll make sure that the tape always faces up when it run the stock through the router bit so I cut all the crews and tongues in the same relative position then when I assemble the doors I can keep all the sides facing the same way I learned this trick from a Colin connect video which I've linked in the description below the nice thing about using tape is if I forget and put the tape side down it'll make it harder to slide the stock on the router table and I'll realize I'm about to make a mistake this has already saved me a couple of times I've even got tape on my test piece so I know whether to raise or lower the bit to get it centered by the way your test pieces need to be the exact same thickness as your project pieces so if it's centered in the test piece it'll be centered in the project pieces as making these test cuts I measure and compare both sides of the groove to see how close to centered I am when I get decides to within about a hundredth of an inch of each other I figure that's close enough that you won't be able to tell that they're not perfect I double check the width against the panel just to be sure before I start cutting all the project pieces then I cut the grooves in all the rails and Stiles now it's time to get the tongue bit set to cut tongues the right thickness I start out by setting the thickness to a little less than the grooves I use one of the pieces I just cut to get the bit to the same height I get the fence in the right position and relatively Square to the miter trap don't worry if you don't have a miter track I'll explain more in a moment I make a test cut and it's actually too narrow so I add a small shim then I make another cut eventually I get it right I've decided I'd rather have the tongues be a little too tight rather than too loose because I can sand them down too perfect if I need to I've managed to Center it pretty much the same as the grooves it's not absolutely perfect but a little sanding will solve that so now I'm ready to cut the tongues in all the rails I'm using a backing piece behind each rail to help prevent tear-out if you don't have a miter track just use a wider backing board like this to help keep the stock square through the bit just remember to keep your fingers away from the bit before I assemble the doors I need to explain something I'm not actually making standard doors to use hinges I'm making one big door for this bench top router table that comes off in one piece I cut an extra groove in one of the styles and I cut a tongue in another style so they can be glued together as one piece other than that though there's no difference between these and regular shaker cabinet doors I'm doing a dry assembly without panels I'll cut the panels in a moment I'm keeping all the tape sides facing the same way I'll remove the tape after I've glued them up the tongues are just a bit too tight which I expected so I'll have to sand them before the final glue up but it's a pretty good looking fit and I'll definitely need to sand the long tongue just a few more tips before I end this video when you're trying to figure out the width of the panel you should cut measure one of your rails including the tongues for the height measure the height of one of the styles then subtract the height of the top and bottom tongues it's probably a good idea to cut it a little smaller than that width and height so you don't accidentally cut it too large and you leave room for possible different rates of expansion for me I took off about an eighth of an inch all the way around except I didn't the first time and that leads us into the second tip I messed up and cut one of the panels to narrow right now I have it pressed all the way down in one of the Styles grooves and you can see it just comes up to the edge of the rails tongue that means you can probably see daylight between the panel and one of the styles well maybe not on video but with a naked eye you can so here's what I did I cut two thin strips from the same material the panel came from and stuck them in the grooves of the Stiles and made them short enough so the tongues won't hit them now when I put it together everything's fine nobody will ever know unless I tell them of course for some reason some of us feel the need to point out our mistakes I've got everything glued up so I think we're done here except I know someone will ask about these diagonal clamps both doors were slightly off-kilter so I'm using the diagonal clamps to help pull them back to square if you need any more help on gluing and clamping still YouTube search if you enjoyed this video please give it a thumbs up and consider leaving a comment check out the description for links to products seen in this video just scroll down click show more and scroll down until you see the links and 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Channel: The Newbie Woodworker

Views: 128,380

Keywords: tongue and groove, tongue & groove, freud, router bit set, shaker, cabinet doors, shaker style doors, shaker style cabinet doors, rails, stiles, tongues, grooves, router, router table, diy, woodworking, newbie, newbie woodworker, the newbie woodworker

Id: dc15zOyLQwg

Length: 12min 41sec (761 seconds)

Published: Thu Mar 14 2019