How To Build a Miter Saw Station - FULL Video

I'm getting started on my new miter saw station and I'll be making the majority of that at a three-quarter inch apart later I got my saw board out here to make the cuts normally what I do is I make rough cuts with this and then I recut the pieces on the table saw just to be a hundred percent accurate but since this is just a shop project and I know I can be really accurate with this anyway really go ahead and uses for all the basic cuts on all the trees first ones I need the side panels for the face units and there's four of those so I'll need to cut two sheets of plywood lene this one up against the wall for now then cut this one into smaller pieces I've got a shorter sabor but I can't seem to find it anywhere in my shed but this one will work just as well these panels are 26 inches wide and will be 40 inches tall for mine I want the cutting surface for the saw higher than standards along with 40 inches [Music] it's always a really good idea to check the sheet to make sure it's square because I had a couple of sheets in the past that weren't square away from the store and I think kind of really screws you up because you expect them to be square so I always check now I've got all the base side panels cut there are four of those now from pieces that I cut off the other side of the sheet I want to cut the top upper side panels from these ones I'll get three other this one first thing I need to do is rip it to the width I'm ready to start putting it together so the first thing I did was I took a level and I put it on the floor here to see how close this is to level if it's sloping too badly I would have to either shim up the cabinet somewhat or add feet adjustable feet to it or I could actually cut the panel so that'll be scribed to the floor but in my case the florists looking pretty good here I don't think I'll have to do anything with it nearly everything is put together with glue and I've got some two inch I build the dovetails here that I'm going to drive in I've already drilled a pilot hole here get started we did that before I put the glue on keep from sliding around let's try the screw in until it comes up flush now I didn't bother to drill a countersink here because these screws will pull in tight I flush with the wood anyway and drive it in what I try to do with all of my builds is to keep them as simple as I possibly can and that means to avoid things like rabbits or dedos when they're not strictly necessary for a shop cabinet like this there's no compromise and strength or quality if you use a butt joint like this that's screwed together you can always countersink the screw and then put a plug in afterwards if you want to dress it up but here in my shop I don't mind seeing the occasional screw every once in a while it is after all just a workshop and along with that there will be other cabinets beside this one that will actually cover up most of what you're seeing here back when I changed my other chop saw cabinet to have the grinder be sided I lifted it up to 41 inches tall and I really liked that height for cutting now I don't think I can get used to it being down this low anymore so I'm making mine that height as well the plans that I'm going to be making for this at some point will have a standard height though and you can always change it by changing I think it's five components that have to be monitored to whatever height you want to okay well that's the first one of these put together the other one is exactly the same open on the front like this my first design for this actually had drawers in these areas I sensed revise that to make these areas so that you can put tools in here to pull out on carts I'm gonna put the planer my surface planer in one and then the other one I'm not sure yet but of course these could also be used for drawers if you would like all you need to do is put a total kick across the bottom to keep it steady that way and just put the drawers in just gonna put this one over here out of the way until I get the other one put together I've got the other one put together and I've got them set up roughly where they're supposed to go and I put my level on the check again and they're good and level this way although the slab the floor slab slopes downhill a little bit on this side so it's lower at the back not really a big problem but I was thinking about it and I thought of a pretty neat way to level these up without you know having to do too much and that's to add these to flip this over blocks to the bottom these are just pieces of soft wood they'll be when you call permanent ships what I'll be able to do with them though is playing them down to fit before I do any leveling I've put these exactly where they're gonna go 46 inches apart in my case I've taken my level and put across between the two and I can see that this one's higher than that one by a very small amount so I'll work on this one first so what I've got here is a shim and I can see I'm low at the back here I'll just put the shim in until it looks good and then I can mark the front foot which needs to be plane down so it'll sit flat with my pencil I'm doing the same thing on the other side except it's very close and I'll hold my pencil up to match that down there I flipped the unit upside down again so I can plane the feet down to the markets I already made I finished planing it flipped it over back into the place is supposed to be I check with the level to see how it looks and it looks pretty good dead-on actually so this one's good now I need to level over to the other one and fix that one same deal with this one shim it up I tell this level and then play down the feet and now I have it perfectly level across the top and that's really what you want because everything else goes off of this so you really want to make sure that this is good I brought over the parts for one of the uppers and the first thing I wanted to do is take my filler which goes across the bottom like that and make a line across on the side panel I'll take the other side panel and do the same thing I'll flip it over try to best side out although it really doesn't matter too much and then I can start putting it together once again these are all just glued but joints put together with some screws I'm using two inch screws for strength they're a lot stronger than one and a half inch screws into endgrain I've found anyway I've got that filler piece clamped down just so won't move I should mention that if you you know in general don't have a problem with the butt joint but you don't like the exposed screws coming through you could always use pocket screws from the other side and that way you wouldn't see them I like the screws going through the eye bill the dovetails because they're stronger and they're a lot faster and easier you don't need no jig messing around to do it and when they go in nice and flush like that they look pretty good [Music] okay that's the first one of those assembles put it over here and this gets attached to the base unit it's gotta drill a pilot hole up through to join the base to the upper and then drive in a two inch screw I'm just gonna turn it around so I can drive screws in from behind this four screws two in the front and two in the back here we'll hold the upper to the base by using any glue on here just in case I want to take this apart at some point okay I'm just gonna move this back where it goes I can plug the cord back in to the outlet back here so as you can see I'm ironing out the vacuum put in here and I made a separate video on doing that the link is in the description if you're interested in watching that but the next step is to build the stuff that goes in between the two base cabinets and I'm starting with the toe kick on the front down here I've got a block clamped on here that's two and a half inches wide just to hold the toe kick up against it I've also got a shim put on there here to lift it up because of the feet that I put on there to scribe it to the floor and now I'm going to drive two inch screws from behind inside the cabinet to hold it in place I'm not using any glue on this joint at all and I'm doing the same thing over here I've already drilled a pilot holes just need to drive the screws [Music] same thing for the back toe kick I'm just gonna drive screws from the inside is spaced away from the back of the cabinet by the same amount two and a half inches now that I have those two toe kicks in place I get the spreaders put on there four inches wide and go across like this and basically what they do is they replace a full shelf there's one at the front and one at the back you could however make it a full shelf if you wanted to this is to save material because there'll be drawers above this here of mine so I don't want to waste plywood in there for no reason now this goes on then I'll screw it down to the toe kick and then I'll screw it in also from inside the base cabinets I've got the base in this area done I got to put this divider in place a couple of different ways to do this one is to screw up from underneath which is difficult I'd have to move the thing out and tip it over another way is to use pocket screws down into the stretchers the way that I'm going to do it is just use biscuits to spline the bottom of the panel to these with glue no actual screws so I've got marks made here I've got the fence taken off my biscuit joiner I've got a fence set up to go against I just got to cut the slot in the bottom first and then I'll cut it in the panel to match [Music] lots of guys don't like biscuit joiners think they're useless but I'll tell you lots of situations where they really come in handy in the shop it's a in my opinion it's a must-have tool see for simple things like this I've got the panel glued on the bottom and the next part to go in is what I would call the dust shelf and this is the very bottom actually of the food part and once again I'm not going to use any glue on this I'm just going to use two inch screws to fasten it in place I gotta try to move this out away from the wall prior to this I gave the interior here two coats of water-based polyurethane just to make it so that the dust won't stick I also want to do the rest of the unit and clear polyurethane so this will be easier to do now that there's no song on the way or shelves or anything like that alright what's happening here is the back of mine sticks out an extra two inches because this saw that I'm using is huge and it takes up this much space to be able to use its full capacity I designed this cabinet specifically to use the tilt function the compound tilt function on the atashi saw that I've got as well as the swivel part too so I need this extra space at the back here so I've got to attach these pieces that I cut out and I drilled counter bores for the screws and they'll just get screwed on no glue okay the next thing to do is to get the top on that's one piece that goes from end okay like the rest of it this just gets screwed on stiffer now than it was before with the addition of the top and the back really consolidates okay I've only got two things left to do to make the cabinet functional and that's add the shelf for the saw itself and the side tables the wings that will support the stock on either side I'm doing the Shelf in two layers I'm going to do the bottom one first I've already put in place and I put the divider that I made for the middle here under this end and then I cut another one that's scrapped actually to go up and the other end a hole at level across now the height of this divider is important what you want to wind up with here is when you put the other layer on here that it be the height of your saw from here down to the top of the shelf has to match that I've got both ends of this first layer of shelf screwed in and a physician divider here in the middle where it's supposed to go take my little square here and check see the square looks pretty good doesn't really need to be because this opening here is just our access underneath to the shelf to clean it out I anticipate that there would be a lot of dust fall in here and I figure the easiest way is just to reach in with a whisk broom and sweep it out into a garbage bucket right there my old one had a drawer that would slide out that the dust fell into and that really wasn't that much more convenient actually than I anticipate that this will be because I wanted to fit in there really nice and tight it was often difficult to get out so that was a bit of a deterrent to cleaning it out I can't just screw that on to 2-inch screws nothing from the bottom because it really doesn't need it I'll put the other shelf on again no glue just screws in place on top of the other one make sure it's lined up and then I'll Drive screws down into the one below and then just a couple more two inch ones from each end and now with that shelf done I can finally bring the SOB back into the shop and set up at least temporarily until I get the wings made God you now is I've got to spend a few minutes swinging this around tilting it to find the ideal location for here on the thing I don't want to just say the center and then bolt it down type thing or make my wings to fit and then find out you know if I tilt it this way that it won't go all the way in or tilted the other way and it won't go all the way in okay well as it turns out it can be exactly centered in here you actually need more room on this side that you do on this side especially because this will not go full 45 down and full 45 this way it'll only go to about 30 degrees tilt so that leaves quite a bit on that side I don't know why I didn't see that in the beginning I could have made my hood maybe four inches smaller this way but really not a big deal I'm gonna go ahead and screw it down in the back I still have to add a piece to the front here of solid wood to build it out to fully support the front of the saw and to bolt it over in this location because the hole is actually off the shelf well this one up here still is these two screws are just temporary I just want to get the saw so it doesn't move while I get the wings made in a position and I can take the sod again because I want to finish this shelf with clear polyurethane there I've got the two pieces that I just cut the length and these are for the wings let's support the material on either side what I wanted to do with these I want to add a piece of solid wood to each edge to make them wider also to make the edge more durable I've got a stop block system that clamps right on to these and I want it to clamp on to solid wood rather than plywood I've got a piece of construction grade lumber here I'm going to cut to 48 inches long because I wanted to first of all put on the edge of these and I also want a piece to go along the nose here underneath this saw on that shelf set my side at 90 when I get the truck out of the vacuum system again set my saw to 1/8 I'll tighten the fence I'm gonna cut strips off this 1 inch thick that's what I'm shooting for the wing needs pieces that are one inch wide and that piece down there needs piece that's one inch thick by 1 1/2 inch tall there's two babies been sitting in my shop for months and it's really dry and that's for what you need to do if you're gonna use this type of lumber even though they say it's kiln dried from you know the home center kiln dried only means that they've removed the bulk of the moisture from the wood now if it's sitting in the store or in the home center for you know a month or two a lot more of the moisture comes out so it might be more dry especially the bigger pieces they tend to stay around a lot longer two by twelve will probably be the most dry while you'll find especially ones that are 16 feet long and that's a really good way to get low-cost solid lumber here in North America anyways okay I've got all the parts plane smooth I plane these ones down to the same thickness as the plywood of the wings exactly so when I put those on I'll need to do is give it a light sanding by hand and that should bring it down nice and flush I've got one other thing I need to do with two of these before I attach them to the wings and that's the kind of very shallow rabbet here and that's the receive this peel and stick measuring tape and that will fit down inside that rabbit I don't want it to stick up proud of the surface to get scratched up or interfere with the material that's being cut after that I got those foot on I use a spline actually that I cut on the table saw that line at the surface perfectly and then I just used glue and clamps to hold it together I didn't want to put any nails or screws in this I did the same here on the front of the shelf that piece I cut I actually put a couple of screws in the middle after I glued it on and then I clamped it at the ends then I gave the Shelf down here plus the nosing a couple of coats of water-based polyurethane I also did the side wings two coats even on the back as well then I lifted the saab back up on the thing and lined it up where it needs to go and screwed it down I urge banded the front of the cabinet here all the places where the plywood was showing I just covered it with this thin veneer I've got a video on that a separate video a link in the description also to that that goes over that a little bit more detail before I go with the side tables on I need to get these fillers put in on the other side I'm gonna hold them back from the front by about a quarter inch really doesn't matter what they do is they keep the dust in here and not coming out here and to attach it I'm just going to drive a screw in through the end once again I'm just using screws here I'm not using any glue these side tables line up so that they're an inch past the face of the base cabinet here it's gonna measure that and then I can get a clamp on it to hold it in place so that it doesn't move while I get a couple of one the quarter inch screws up into it from underneath once again I'm not gluing the side table down just using screws to hold it in place just in case I want to change something in the future both side tables are on now I can get the peel and stick tape put on the problem is of course that you can't run it up onto the saw because it'll just peel off or getting away so you have to start somewhere and I'm going to start as close to the end as I possibly can but what I've done is I've cut a piece of plywood here into 12 inches long and I'm gonna run that right up tight to the blade and hold that there what I'm looking for here is for the tape to be the actual dimensions of the parts that I want to cut usually you can offset the tape whatever amount you want because there'll be a pointer that points to it but in my case I want it to be as close as possible to that so that I can just eyeball cuts sometimes just take them up put them in place line them up with the mark on the tape and make the cut I'm gonna obviously have to cut some off the end it needs to start at market 12 so I can come back to around 11 and a quarter and cut that right off I'll just use terrorist scissors for that so I've got that end clamped on the 12 inch mark and I'm just going to spool it out to the end here cut off this is a right-to-left reading tape and the one on the other side will be opposite so that I get correct readings both sides then I can peel off the backing and stick it down inside that rabbit that I cut the last time now I can do the same thing on the other end over here already cut the tape to the right length let's peel it off stick it off make sure there's nothing and they track where it goes alright we just set up I've got nearly 48 inches on either side which is plenty for me for this kind of thing usually when you're cutting something to an exact dimension over and over again where you need a stop block it's going to be 48 inches or less so this is good for that also you know when the stock goes down and lines up it doesn't cover the tape you can still see clearly the tape by looking over it like this and if you need a piece that's approximate length but still pretty accurate just line it up with the mark on the tape and then make your cut anyway what I've got here are the two tip out bins that I had in my last chop saw station that hold the saw blades that I have are used most often this is actually a great system I really like the way the blades go in their vertical like that sitting in slots there's enough space in between the slots to get my fingers in and grasp the blade firmly the last thing you want to do just take one of these out and drop it on the concrete floor so I need a place that I can put all these blades and just pull it you know like a drawer and just pull it out and grab whatever blade I need whenever I need it I also want to make storage space for my dado blade set previous to this I made this wall mounted rack right here it's convenient but it does get covered with us and it's taking up valuable wall space I could otherwise be used for something else I worked out a bit of a plan and Sketchup on how I want the drawer to be at least for the blades I'm not sure about the dado is that yet I figure I'll do that after I at the blade part sorted out and I'm gonna be building it from this three-quarter inch plywood here I really want strong plywood for this because it's gonna have a lot of weight in there first of all and like I said before it's not a full box it's just more or less a frame and then a subframe that carries the blades plus some more stuff so it really has to be strong okay well I need the sides that go in to be 22 inches long that's the length of the drawer slide I really much point making it longer than that and this is where the you know the tape being the right you know measurement comes in all I got to do is slide it up line it up with the 22 inch mark and make my cut for the ones that go across the front for the frame I need to get a measurement for those I know that the inside of my opening here is 22 and 5/8 so I'll just put that on the outside of my two pieces of plywood I'm doing it like this because plywood is very rarely exactly 3/4 of an edge or even a measurement that you can easily you know work with so this makes a lot faster and easier I just clamped the two pieces together with my fingers and hold the tape at the measurement and then I can get the measurement on the inside and it looks like that's 21 and 3/16 these are the two sides that I cut earlier I just cut the front in the back and here's one of those I'm going to put it in place here because I want to make sure that they're the right measurement I'll measure across and I can see immediately that I didn't deduct the 1 inch for the drawer slide so I'm gonna have to make these one inch shorter well I got that mistake fixed I'm gonna be using just butt joints and glue and screws to put it together I'm just gonna drill the hole first before I put any glue in the joint and that will keep it from slipping around all over the place you see where that little piece broke out in the front there one way to avoid that is to drill countersinks the other way is to move further in and drill in on an angle that way you're not so close to the edge and you're less likely to pop that piece out I've got the other side frame assembled and I need a couple of pieces to go in between to carry the saw blades they're gonna have not just got it in them and whenever possible I like to measure rather than using a tape I'll take the piece that I'm gonna cut and put it right in the opening and make a mark on it and that way I know for sure that it's in there and now I really can't mess up like I did with the other thing before I can put these in I've got to cut slots in them and just like I did with the other ones there there's lots of different ways you could over complicate this but what I'm gonna use my mini table saw sled and I've just marked lines on the front of the piece here spaced one inch apart and I'm gonna make saw cuts that are a little bit thicker than 1/8 of an inch I found with the other one there that the blades fit in there better when more than the thickness of the plate with no glue and one screw in each end these can twist so what I'm gonna do is I'm going to add a bridge to the middle here and this one I will glue in I just want to make sure that it's in between the slots that I cut I've got space for 20 blades and the part I just did I'm thinking about the dado set and there are five main components that's the outside blade parts and the chippers and they'll all fit in a similar arrangement except I'm going to put it sideways so I'm going to fit it in here to hold the shims in the same way is that I'm gonna actually go across again with two pieces that will have four slots to hold the shims upright you just pluck them out as I need them after I finish cutting these I glued them onto the outside ones and let it dry now it's ready to put in the ideas it'll slip in here so that the dado blades so stock up against this end over here and I want to move it over as close to the end here as I can all right so I've got the drawer slides itself I tried to film that by dropping too many screws it's too tight a spot I would have to censor out too many swear words for the sensitive audience that is just not worth it I like it when everything is neatly laid out like this and all I need to do is open the drawer and grab what I need and then when I'm done with it I can put it exactly back where it needs to go same thing with the blades you can say I've got 20 slots here I don't think I have 20 blades so I've got more than enough which is a good thing I'm getting ready to start on the end cabinet the upper end cabinet on that end of the chop saw station yesterday I came out and I made the door to cover this and cabinet and I'll quickly run through how I did that this is 3/4 inch maple like the rest of the cabinet and what I want to get from this the door fronts for the two upper end cabinets that I made earlier so I cut it off to twenty-seven and a half inches the rough lane and then I trimmed it down the final size on the table side this is generally the way I like to do it I never try to cut both sheets on the table saw [Music] after I got the door panel cut the size I take the time to edge and if you'd like more detail on how I did that there's a link in the description to a video I made specifically about that I'm gonna be using hinges that I'm recycling from my old kitchen cabinets and here I'm just laying out the hole locations three inches down from the top of the door and 15/16 in from the edge [Music] these are pretty good hinges and they just clip to the mounting plate inside the cabinet and then I can adjust the hinges to make the door line up with the cabinet and then some sanding they clean up the edges and the face before giving it a coat of water-based polyurethane [Music] rather than the handle I just routed the feet of you on the edge before giving the door the second coat of polyurethane [Music] I'm not sure if it makes much of a difference but I put some weather stripping tape around the opening for the door to close against the idea is that may block some of the sound from the vacuum cleaner okay so I got the vacuum in that one over there that's completely used up listen over here I want to do something different with it I don't want to have a cabinet like a cupboard with the door and shelves inside there the problem with shelves is that you know stuff gets stuck in the back there it gets all cluttered up and you really only can use the first two or three inches of the shelf actually unless you're putting bigger stuff in there so it's really limited the other option is to make drawers but I don't like drawers at this height I think it's too awkward to pull them out and try to you know crane your neck in over or reach into them so I've got a different idea and it's kind of like a drawer except it's vertical and it will slide out and will be a panel actually kind of like a tool wall a mini tool wall on drawer slides that slides out and then you can put whatever you want right onto that path and a front on it and slide it back in so I'm gonna measure this up and I got twenty five and a half high and a 16 and 3/4 inches deep so the panel will be 25 inches tall and 16 inches deep all right so this is what I mean right here gone ahead and put this one in already and just pull straight out like that and the idea is that whatever you're going to access will be mounted on the board here could be used you know just the same way as a tool wall would with tool holders on here or it could have bins on here for screws or whatever you want to put there I want to put three of these in this space though one here and one in here and one in the middle roughly I want one of these to be thinner because I want one of these to have the router bits that I use mounted on it because this space down under here eventually will hold my new router table well I decided to make this panel right here the one for my router bit so I'm gonna space the divider that I need to mount the next one on about five inches away from that that'll give me lots of depth there to build a rack to put the router bits on and the divider itself are just a couple of pieces of 3/4 inch plywood then I'm not going to glue down I'm just going to screw in place I've drilled holes down through for the screws and the reason why I don't want to glue it it's in case I want to change this at some point in the future all I need to do is undo the screws and make the change without you know having smashed everything up I'm using 16 inch full extension drawer slides and I've broken two down and I'm going to attach this part to the top the other ones to the bottom of the panel with half-inch screws to mount this side of the slide a cotton spacer blocks I'll lift it up off the bottom hold it in place here drill a couple of holes and then drive in the screws now that I got the bottom one attached I can line up the top side just by holding it in place putting a clamp on until they get a screw in well I went ahead and I put the last one in and now what I need to do is make the fronts for each one this one is the narrowest one there'll be six and a half it just I gotta take the other piece of plywood that I cut off in the beginning and rip that to six-and-a-half then the other two will be equal size I think it's eight and three-quarters now it's kind of boring but I got to do it I'm going to edge band three panels on all four edges before I put them on so I'll be right back all right I've got them all edge banded and I've got them lined up here and across the front and what I'm gonna do is attach them to the panel underneath and the way I'm going to do that is just with screws actually driven right through the face and into the edge of the half-inch plywood you're probably saying wow screws that's not gonna look very good but won't be able to see the screws because that's where hang up with the handle actually it's gonna cover those screws right over okay well I got all the fronts put on and I'm putting the handles on I've already got to put on little tricky putting the fronts on mainly because of the plywood I use is 1/2 inch thick if I have a time back I would use 3/4 would have been more area for the front to attach to not only that the 3/4 will probably stay flatter this flyer does not know for staying flat so it's kind of all over the place I'm just gonna put this in here I've already got marks put on there line it up with and then rather than clamp it I'm just gonna drive in a couple of pins one on the top and one at the bottom so anyway I made a new rack and here it is and I'll quickly go through what I did to make it so the first thing that I did was to cut a piece of half-inch plywood to the right size to use to the rack then I figured out what I think will be the ideal spacing for the bits I'm basing this my previous experience and my other cabinet rather than drawing outlines on plywood I made a series of very shallow cuts on the table saw in a grid pattern and then I could use that grid pattern to drill the holes here I'm using a scrap piece of plywood as a guide for the quarter inch holes I'm using a regular twist drill for this so this will keep the bit centered and also prevent chip out on the surface I drill 88 holes for the quarter inch beds then I drill 55 freehand with the half inch Forstner bit the Forstner bit cuts a cleaner hole but clogs up more easily so it's slow going to make it easier to insert the bits I chamfered the edge of each hole and I'm running with a drill backwards to keep the bit from chattering too much in the hole and then I could sand the panel and that gets rid of any dirt that might be on the surface or any burrs from drilling the holes to space the rack away from the panel I cut pieces of half inch plywood then I glued and nailed those on with five eighths inch Brad's I also want to mount the wrenches and the other Kaulitz I have on here and figured I keep it simple with just screws to hang them from and cheap magnets just to keep them in place and stop them from swinging back and forth the magnets drop into half inch counter bores and I'm using some fast set epoxy to hold them in there and then it's just to drill the pilot holes and drive in the screws that the wrenches will hang from to mount the Kaulitz I'm using half inch dowels and a quarter inch bolt and these just get glued in the holes drilled in between the two bigger wrenches I drilled the holes for the quarter-inch bit slightly oversized but the half inch holes are still a bit too tight so I made a quick and dirty sanding drum from a glue stick and a strip of sandpaper and I chucked that in the drill and use that to ream out the holes to keep it looking clean I brushed down one coat of water-based polyurethane and when that dried I lightly sanded it and gave it a second coat and so the idea is that it just mounts on the panel right inside the drawer like that so I've got the drawer taken out and I'm just going to take the panel put it in place I'll flush at the top here and get a clap on it so it won't move and then I'm just going to drill pilot holes through and drive one the quarter-inch screws in to fix it onto the panel [Music] I'm screwing this on from the back but it can be just as easily screwed on from the front that's just I think this is a little bit easier and I don't want to see the screws in the front so now that I've got it fastened I can slide it back in and that's the beauty of this system all you need to do is take it out and put it back in when you need to you need to make any changes after I finish the one for the router bits I went on to make the other two and together these make up a lot of useful storage for items that I use frequently now I built this miter saw station two years ago and I've used it virtually every day since then and I've also added onto it and improved its functionality over that time and if you want to see all of the projects related to this there's a link in the description that will take you to an article that includes all of those videos also if you're interested in building one of these for yourself there's a basic plan available and the link to that is also in the description you

Channel: John Heisz - I Build It

Views: 366,767

Rating: 4.901474 out of 5

Keywords: woodworking, how to, diy, jpheisz, ibuildit, miter saw station, chop saw station, miter saw stand, miter saw, chop saw, storage, drawers, cabinets

Id: g3JU2_iGYxo

Length: 49min 20sec (2960 seconds)

Published: Sun Aug 26 2018