How to Easily Make Doors and Drawers - WOOD magazine

[Music] hi I'm Jeff Mertz design editor would magazine we hear from her readers all the time about how difficult doors and drawers can be and I understand it can be an intimidating process you've built a project and now you have these other sub projects that you want so much to work we're gonna go through the hardware choices joinery techniques and design options that there are out there in a step-by-step very systematic way using common basic woodworking tools that will guarantee you success so let's look at what we're gonna cover in today's video let's start with a very basic door and drawer this one has stub tenon and groove joinery a plywood panel it also incorporates economy drawer glides and European hinges using the steps to build this it's an easy progression to partial overlaid drawers cope & stick joinery raised panels and surface mount hinges then we're going to go one more step and talk about inset doors and drawers this one featuring non mortise hinges glass and a spring catch one more option there is drawers that fit into one opening that don't have a divider rail so I want uniform reveal around all the gaps we'll do this using full extension drawer glides before we go to the table saw to start work on that first drawer we need to take a moment to think about design you know if you're designing a CD cabinet by the time you add up the width of the CD adding little space for movement of the CD the thickness of the material for the drawer sides and maybe even the drawer glide thickness that will really dictate how wide your cabinet and often how tall your cabinet is going to be you know if you're building something that might hold t-shirts or some stationery the dimensions aren't as critical and sometimes then the actual design of the outside of the piece will dictate what the design sighs of all the components are so sometimes you design from the inside out and sometimes you design from the outside in but it depends on what you're going to put in the project we also need to think about stock preparation and joints I like to have all my drawer material prepared to a very consistent thickness when I begin construction it's all been squared flat and trued before I begin any steps in the joinery today we'll be showing the lock rabbet joint but using a dovetail jig will create the same steps and processes that we're using remember take it step by step and you'll be guaranteed success for our first drawer we're gonna use this project as an example we're gonna fit a lock rabbet drawer into this opening the first step I need to do is determine how wide the drawer is going to be so what I've done is with these epoxy coated slides I've used double faced tape to secure them to the side of the cabinet and now I can measure how wide the drawer is actually going to be in this case we're about ten and the sixteenth then I need to count for the depth of the drawer so I measure the depth and I'm measuring 13 and a quarter inches to the face frame we're gonna be applying an overlay drawer face where the drawer face totally sits in front of the face frame so thirteen and a half inches we're gonna take a quarter of an inch away from that to account for a little bit of room at the back of the cabinet so our drawer box is gonna be 13 and a quarter inches deep now for the height of the drawer I typically like to allow a quarter inch under the drawer and three-quarter inch above the drawer when I'm using drawer glides it's just a nice rule of thumb to go by because you're able to just make the drawer one inch smaller than the opening so in this case we'll make 4 inch tall drawer so I've prepared some 1/2 inch material 4 inches in width and we'll start making the dado cuts for creating that lock rabbet joint we have our fence set up so the distance from the outside edge of our tooth to the fence is the same thickness of as our stocke that will allow us to cut one half of the joint as we're going through the next steps will be a fine tuning that fit so now let's make one more test cut [Applause] [Music] and that fits pretty good we're satisfied with that cut what I'll need to do is move my miter gauge extension back I'm going to add a 1/4 inch thick face to the RIP fence I'll stick it on with double-faced tape this makes a perfect length reticle now we're not quite there we need to raise the blade to get that to fit I'm gonna make us one more a little height adjustment and then I'll also need to recut this joint because I've changed the height of the blade that will create that will move this make this cut deeper and everything will come together so I'll make it one more adjustment [Music] and we're there set our fence out of the way move back over and we're recutting the same joints I'm comfortable with not cutting a new end and that should come together just like we want it now we need to cut our parts to length we know our overall dimension of the front of the drawer will be 10 and 1/16 but when you have a joint on both ends you'll need to remove the width of one of the drawer sides so 10 and 1/16 was our drawer width - about a half inch we're gonna be 10 and 9/16 for our drawer front so if we remember we were 11 inch we had 11 inch wide opening we lost almost an inch with the hardware and then we also lose a half-inch so by rule of thumb I like to remove a inch and a half from the drawer front for it to determine its final length now the joint that we're gonna use that the back is simply going to be a dado joint so our front is the lock rabbit and the back is the dado the these two parts will be the same length and our drawer sides will be the same length so I'm going to cut them both at the same time I'm gonna use the miter saw or I could use a miter gauge extension and a stop block but I don't want to change this setup so I'm gonna go to the miter saw cut our boards to length and we'll be ready to make our first cuts now that we've got the lock rabbet to create the front and the sides of the drawer while we're still set up with our quarter-inch dado blade we can cut the groove for the bottom pull the auxilary or your sacrificial fence away and this is when it's probably a good idea to start marking your parts I want to cut down here and down here for the bottom of my drawer so this cut is just a rip cut on the sides [Applause] [Music] now for the front we've cut our rabbit on the bottom but we need the groove on that inside face so we'll make that cut with our grooves cut in the front and sides we now have a place for the bottom one more thing we have to do before we put the bottom in is we have to cut the dado for the back so if you've got multiple drawers to cut go ahead and make them all now so we'll switch to a half-inch dado blade or a dado blade that's the thickness of the drawer material to install the sides here I'm going to set the dado blade so that it's about one inch from the fence and make a test cut that's gonna fit real well so now we'll take our sides and on the inside face of the drawer side we'll cut the dado at the back so we've got their foot here's where our front will attach and now we're making our cut for the back now let's check our fit I got a piece of sandpaper if I need to I can do a little sanding just to make sure everything's fitting upright there we go nice fit now we need to cut the bottom to do that it will need to be the same length as the front and back - about 1/32 of an inch and then to mark the length you just simply flip it over now what I'll do is I'll sand the inside faces of the drawer both sides of the back and the bottom - 180 grit before I start putting the assembly together I like to just run a bead right down that front edge and the bottom of the dado install the back install the front apply glue up here the reason I don't apply it in the dado is if I put the glue here when I flip it over I got to worry about it running all over the place because I've got two joints that I've got to line up make sure everything is down tight and apply your clamp pressure if everything's been cut square these should be equal dimension across the corners so we're just over 17 and or 16 and 5/8 and 616 and 5/8 so we'll allow that glue to dry so I pulled the clamps off and it's ready for sanding on the outside you can see with the clamp mark any clamp marks will be removed now that there's so there was no real point in sanding the outside of the cat the drawer case so I'll sand that up and we'll install the bottom with the drawers assembled I can install the drawer half of the slides they simply screw to the bottom of the drawer flush at the front now I need to put the drawer glide inside the case in this example the side is offset from the face frame so I need to make some fillers to do that I was this is a quarter inch I'm just able to use some quarter inch plywood but you'll want what you'd want to mill it to whatever thickness you need and that can be just installed with double-faced tape when we install the the glide will screw through the filler strip into the side of the cabinet and that will secure it permanently and we'll line it flush with this rail now we can set the glide I just set the glide right down on top of the rail and set it flush to the front now flip the camp flip the cabinet back over and repeat the same process to install the glide on the other side now we've got the drawer glides installed in the cabinet and the met the matching parts on the drawer we can install it nice flush front now we need to think start thinking about the drawer face we talked about we're gonna do an overlay drawer face if there is a door next to it or below it or above it they need to line up so the hinge configuration of your door will actually impact the size of your drawer face you can cut a lock rabbet on the router table to this setup is similar to the table saw set the fence of the distance to the far side of the bed equals the drawer stock thickness [Music] attach a 1/4 inch thick fence behind the bit and rabbet the ends of the drawer fronts a good joint has slight friction now let's get back to installing that drawer front on this cabinet we're going to install an overlay door to do that we're gonna use a European hinge they're also our standard spring-loaded hinges that will accomplish the same thing both of them sit attached to the inside face of the face frame and allow the door to over lay the front of the cabinet both of these are a half-inch overlay you can get these that range from in sets all the way to like inch and a half overlay so it gives you a wide variety of options but I always want to make sure I have that piece of hardware in my hand before I start doing any kind of layout work or any construction on the door itself so to install this they were the instructions call for a 3/32 inch gap between the edge of the door and the edge of the 35 millimeter hole that I need to drill to put the engine place but I didn't drill a 35 millimeter hole I drilled an inch and three-eighths so you don't have to buy a specialty bit if you have an inch and three-eighths portion or bit that'll work just great for you I came over three thirty-seconds plus then centered a 1 in 3/8 inch hole off of that dimension so from the edge of my door to the centerline of the hole is eleven sixteenths half of inch and three eighths plus three thirty-seconds so it's a thirty second more than 3/4 of an inch it's a lot of math there but just follow the manufacturer's instructions that come with the hardware and you'll be fine so I I set my hinge in place I set my sample door on the cabinet and I like to make a mark now I set my square so that I can put my pen to that mark now I can make it a little bigger so I can see it I'm gonna put a half inch overlay going down I'm gonna create a half inch overlay on both sides so I have an even reveal on both sides of the door half inch down here half inch over here now up here I really doesn't matter what my overlay is it could be a half this can overlay a half and this can overlay a half I can play with that gives me some design options we're gonna keep it simple 1/2 inch here we'll just measure down 1/2 inch and a half now we're gonna do a stub tenon and groove door it's kind of like a shallow mortise and tenon I know that my rails on this door on typical cabinet doors you're talking two to two and a quarter it seems to be that the common dimension for those parts so we're gonna make a two inch rail so I'll come over two inches from that mark do the same thing over on the other side two inches in from our mark and then my groove is going to be three-eighths of an inch deep so I'll mark back 3/8 of an inch and 3/8 of an inch so our door width I can measure from the outside to outside is right at 12 inches our height is 15 and 1/8 and our drawer face should be 6 inches now the other part I need to know is how long the rail is I'm going to measure from my 3/8 mark to my 3/8 mark and I actually like to hold my ruler at 10 inches and you'll see why in a moment so if I'm at 10 here I can read over to 8 and 3/4 of an inch so basically you're taking the zero away it's hard to read the tape right from the end so 8 and 3/4 is Ian is the length of my rail so we're gonna go over the table saw and I'm gonna cut the parts to length and we're gonna we're gonna start making our joinery for this door and drawer face I've attached an auxilary miter gauge extension to my miter gauge and made a little scrap that I'll use for a stop block cut a little chamfer on the edge of that chick on the stop block that we need to breathe that gets pushed up against it won't will allow the stock to fully engage and won't mess up your dimensions so first thing I need to do is I'm gonna cut door & drawer Styles at the same time both sides so I know that it exactly the same length so I've raised my blade stacked my two boards raised my blade above the thickness of the material and I'm gonna make a cut through my fence now I can measure from that cut 15 and 1/8 and my other dimension was six inches for my drawers because I know exactly where that cut is right against the teeth I can actually use that to measure from so we'll cut our doors our door styles first slide my two rails up against the stop block Stiles [Music] adjust for my drawer [Music] [Music] now you'll notice I made these from one part what I want to do is I want to have the grain run up the door and across the drawer it adds a nice little touch if all that grain matches so in one part I got the lower door style the drawer style and some scrap now we just need to set the set those aside keeping them in orientation will mark them in a moment and we'll mark for our eight and three-quarter inch rails and we'll just cut these two at a time [Music] [Music] [Music] now we're gonna switch to a quarter-inch dado blade so we can cut a groove in our parts for the joinery before we do that I just want to show you why we were keeping everything orientated so what I can do is take one rail or one style for both parts my two rails and I just like to do a simple I can put left left and a right now we need to cut the groove to receive the panel that's going to be in our door this door already glued up and I'll I'll put some glass in it in a bit it shows us that we've got a couple different we've got to make sure that the groove is centered in the door in the width of the door parts and is wide enough to receive our panel here I've got a piece of one quarter inch oak veneer plywood it actually has an MDF core there's MDF between the two layers of veneer that thickness will dictate the groove that we're gonna have in our door we've got some other options the reason I really like that MDF core veneer plywood is because of with the veneer core that I pick up at my home Center it actually measures 3/16 of an inch that doesn't give me a very strong panel I think this is a stronger panel and it it's going to give me a better quality door and we'll we'll address how we would cut that groove instead of using a dado blade in a moment another option would be using half inch plywood I can cut a rabbet around the perimeter so the panel will fit in to the door and you can actually create a nice little reveal detail or have the door the door panel recessed either one works but what it gives you instead of the 3/16 inch panel it gives you a half inch thick panel this is a good option so let's talk about making our panel for our quarter-inch material I've got my dado blade set up to approximate center of my stock I've got my feather board installed and that will make a test cut in a scrap [Music] what I'm most concerned about is the width of the panel width of the groove to receive the panel so that fits quite well I can see that my my groove is not quite centered if I was to simply take the board and Roo flip it around and cut the groove from the other face my groove would end up being too wide so I need to do a little bit of setup here and then we'll make another test cut [Music] that looks pretty good but there's literally only one way to find out we've ran it through this way [Music] now what we're looking for with that partial cut is a shoulder that was created by that blade coming into the wood right now I can tell that that groove is perfectly centered because there's no exit mark from the saw blade so I'm ready to cut a groove with the grooves cut to receive the plywood I need to form the Tenon's that will also lock in so to do that I'm gonna switch change my dado blade so it's a half-inch wide I only need a 3/8 inch cut but you'll see I'll make a a sacrificial fence that will make the adjustment and cut very easy and very accurate I like to use a piece of 3/4 inch MDF for this what I need to do is I need to remove the material here and here on this board since our groove is approximately a quarter of an inch I need to remove 1/4 from each side so I'm gonna set my rule to 1/4 inch to draw a line then I can double-faced tape my fence sacrificial fence in place and then I like to throw one clamp on it just to be sure now I lower the blade and I'm going to use about three-eighths of an inch of the blade I'm gonna cover a little bit more than that about half of the blade turn this on and raise it until the arc of the cut comes up just short of my line now that gives me a little leeway it creates a void in there so when I move the fence over I if I need to adjust either way I'm not trying to get it right on the money so what I'm gonna do is I'm going to use my one of my pieces as a guide and what I want to do is get the outside cutter lower that just to touch in line with that bottom of that groove it won't be perfect the first time that's okay I've got some scrap material I'll get a couple pieces because it's not always going to hit right on the first time [Music] and I'll raise my blade until that tenon fits right in the groove now remember as I raise the blade I'm taking an equal amount off both face so don't just too much at one time [Music] [Music] that's what we're after so now that that's tenant is made one thing I want to do all saws in the middle of the handle have a knob that you can tighten the raise and lower mechanism be sure to tighten that because after making several cuts that blade may move up or down one thing to be sure of you have your styles that go on the end of the door end of the drawer and the side of the door don't cut Tenon's on the ends of those parts you only want them on your four rails before you change your setup test all the fit of your parts you don't want to have everything tore down and then have to come back and adjust your your tenants I will show you a simple technique also for adjusting them later yep a little tight so we'll just go through it one at a time [Music] so we've got all our parts cut let's say you have to step away from the shop for a day or two or you have a couple of joints that might be giving you a particular trouble if you're building a lot of doors you're guaranteed to have to do some adjusting of these of these tenants you can use a rabbet plane which is a hand plane that rubs against the shoulder of the tenant and rim and reduces the thickness but a simple trick some adhesive back sandpaper on a block of wood so like this joint it's still a little stubborn but with just a couple strokes on each face of the tenon and now that piece goes in and fits like a glove so I'm gonna make sure that everything's fitting right and at the same time mark out for my panels so I just simply lay my Tenon's up on my rails or up on my Stiles and draw a pencil line because my panel will run from the bottom of this groove to the bottom of that groove then I can measure 11 and 7/8 and for plywood I like to cut them about 1/16 under side just to give myself a little bit extra room so eleven and thirteen sixteenths and then the panel will be the same width as your overall overall rail length minus 1/16 so back to eight and eleven sixteenths and we'll go cut those for the drawer front - and eleven sixteenths and again that will be eight and eleven sixteenths one other bit of sanding you need to do before we can put the panel in place and glue the door up is I just like to take my sanding block and just a couple passes on each face because it'll be very difficult to get in and sand those edges after the plywood panel is in position the other benefit to sanding like this is I'm bridging that gap if I use a random orbit sander I'm a round over those edges and the joints won't fit tight so just a couple of passes is all we need when selecting your material for the panel you can simply just cut it out of a piece of plywood you might get something like this where the grain pattern isn't centered in the panel if you've got a little bit of material to play with maybe if you Center here's a glue joint or a veneer seen in the panel you can Center that use that as a window to find out find a nice section of grain that you really like so here's one I really like but I want to Center that groove so our panel is approximately 8 and 3/4 so I need to come over 4 and 3/8 so 4 and 3/8 from that seam is right here we're gonna rip this material off so I need to allow about 1/8 inch for the saw blade so I'm gonna set the blade about 15 16 [Applause] I've set the fence to a 8 and 11 16 and I make another time [Applause] [Music] [Applause] now I want to add to the top of this we'll call three our panel is two and eleven sixteenths I'm just gonna make add about three inches up here so this will be where our panels cut from so I'm gonna go to the miter saw and make those cuts I've finished cutting and sanding the panels and we've already sanded our edges now it's time to glue them up what you want to make sure is earlier before when we placed our lines on the couple rayon the styles to show where the panel was gonna be well if I go back and make sure those are all marked that also tells me where to apply glue so I will apply glue from the mark down and then apply guru glue in the panel but not getting any on the the face of the edge of the Stiles so I just like to apply a little glue right to each edge at the corner not too much and then just a small couple drops in where the panel is going to go as you can see there's plenty of glue in the joint slip the panel in apply glue to the other style now we'll clamp it up I like to keep the clamps just a little bit away from the ends of the rails and the ends of the Stiles so that when I apply pressure and draw the joints tight making sure that everything's flush top and bottom I'm still able to measure my diagonals to check for square if all my joinery has been cut square that's really not even a necessary thing to do because it's gonna pull everything tight so I'll double-check my measurements and then I'll glue up my drawer face so with that panel clamped up we'll allow the glue to dry and then we'll get ready to install them once the glue has dried on the door I can drill the holes for the hinges again there are instructions with the hinges that explained how to position this hole and now I'm going to install the door I'm gonna take our hinge insert it into the holes that I've drilled and I can just use a square against the hinge to make sure everything's were taught to be I like to use a self centering bit and drill my holes I've left our tape in place so I can use our layout lines to help position the door so let's switch to our self centering bit and I'll line up I can line up the top of the door with my layout mark wrap the hinge around the corner and drill the hole I've applied a piece of tape to our door style and so I can install the door Oh hole what I typically like to do is I lay it like to layout if I'm going to install a knob I Center the knob along the bottom of my upper rail or I Center the handle at the center line that center line as well so I've laid out the line to the center of the style there's our top hole this poll has centers at 3 inches apart so I'll mark that down when I take the door off later I can drill the holes and install the pole the other thing I need to do on the door is put some felt bumpers or rubber bumpers so when the door closes it's a nice quiet close now let's look at the the drawer face I just take since we have a half inch in between our two components I just use the half inch spacer so I'll set my drawer face in position and I want to make sure I'm lined up on the edge and then I can clamp now I'm going to drill hole through the door drawer panel into the drawer itself the hole I drilled is a pilot hole for some number eight screws and then I can simply screw the drawer face to the drawer unclamp slide my drawer out and take the drawer face off clear my tape I'm going to switch out to a 3/16 inch drill bit that allow for the installation of my cabinets Hardware screws I'll use a little scrap of wood to keep from blowing that out and drill my drawer face and now through the hardware I can secure the face so I've tightened up my drawer pull screws now depending on what your application is if you have a solid drawer face because we are an inch and a quarter inch to inch and a quarter thick here your the screws that come with your hardware may not actually be long enough you may need to pick some up longer ones up with your hards Home Center so now we can install the drawer the only thing left a couple bumpers and we are good to go on this project we're gonna install a 3/8 inch partial overlayed or face and drawer face to accomplish this we need to install the drawer using the same hardware and joinery method as we did before the only difference is the drawer is set inside the cabinet 3/8 of an inch so are the sides of the drawers will be slightly shorter now onto the door the door will partially overlay the front by 3/8 of an inch and inset 3/8 of an inch kind of that's one of the tricks of this type of hinge you really need to have this hinge at hand when you start making the door the reason that is is while we cut a 3/8 inch rabbet in the back edge of the door once I show once I mark where that rabbit how much of its actually going to overlay that the perimeter of the opening we find that it's 1/4 of an inch so our door instead of being 3/8 on each side will only be a quarter-inch overlay on both sides you wouldn't want to cut your Stiles too long and not account for that because otherwise when your door closes the rabbit won't clear and the door won't close also on this door we're going to use a coping stick style and rail cutter here's an example we'll use a coke cutter to the profile on the ends of the of the door rails and we'll use the stick cutter to cut the profile on the top and the edge of the styles and rails that go around the door we're also going to use a raised panel bit and a solid wood door we'll need to allow for expansion and contraction of that door panel as we go through the process so let's lay out and determine exactly how long our parts are and how big our drawer face is so we already know we're gonna be a quarter of an inch overlay so I'll set my ruler and start laying it out like I did before for this project I'm gonna use solid wood for the drawer face it'll just be one solid piece of wood so with our five inch drawer opening and our quarter inch overlay we're gonna be five and a half inches for the width of the drawer face for the length starting from our 10 inch mark again I can see that we're gonna be 11 and a half inches for the length of our drawer face for the height we're gonna need to be 14 in this case 3 about 3/8 of an inch that will be the length of our style but how do we figure out our rail we need to know how wide our parts are gonna be and the how deep of a groove the cutter creates so we're gonna use to be a little bit different again we're gonna make our door rails and stiles two and a quarter inches wide so I'll lay that out and then we need to measure for our groove in a combined if you combine the two cutter depths it ends up being thirteen sixteenths of an inch deep really what that means is that on each side of the cutter is going to cut a groove about 1/32 inch deeper than three-eighths of an inch so I'm gonna set my mark at 3/8 plus 1/32 3/8 plus 1/32 so for the door rail top and bottom rail in this example we're going to be 7 and 13 16 if I was gonna make this with a 3/8 inch groove it would have been 7 and 3/4 so 7 + 13 16 will be the length of our style our panel will be 1/4 inch narrower than our style is long so we will measure we've got our length of our style and when we rip our door panel it will be 1/4 inch narrower that leaves a 1/8 inch on both sides for expansion and contraction so let's go to the router table and go through the processes involved in setting up that cope and stick cutter and making this door the first cut is the Koch cut on the ends of the rails the bid is set with the bearing flush to the fence faces the rails are routed with the good face down on the table this bit forms the Tenon's from the end of the rail in the profile below that wraps around the mating profile on the Stiles after routing the rails the stick bed is mounted and set so the upper cutter aligns with the tenon on the rail and again the fence is set flush with the bearing on the bit all four door pieces are routed with the good face down next the panel raising bit set the height so the top of the tenon lines up with the bottom of the upper cutter then set the router table fence flush with the shaft of the bed this is a big bit so to decrease the bite I attached an auxilary face to the router table fence slow the router speed to its lowest setting [Music] after making one pass on each edge of the panel remove the auxilary [Music] the completed panel fits snug in the groove we have completed using our cope and our stick bit to cut our profiles on our styles and rails we've also used our raised panel bit to create the panel before I install this I need to allow for the expansion and contraction of the solid wood panel so I have applied a stain and the first coat of finish the reason I put that stain and finish on is when I put the when I put the door together as this panel expands and contracts during seasonal changes in humidity and temperature I could end up with gaps where there was no stain on the panel as it moves as a style moves away from the center of the panel also to keep the panel centered in the door I'm going to use some rubber panel spacers these go in the groove in the Stiles and rails and they also keep the panel centered and also prevent it from rattling so let's glue it up each door piece gets to Spaceballs then I apply glue to just the Tenon's and insert the panel the panel is solid wood and does not get glue so that it can expand and contract once all the pieces are in place clamp across the rails the Spaceballs keep the rails from seating flush with the ends of the Stiles so use a clamp to pull them into position check the door for square and let the glue dry with our door and drawer face complete it's time to begin the installation with any kind of hinge that has the barrel visible I like to place the top of the barrel even with the bottom of the top rail and the top of the lower rail so let's lay that out for the knob for this door instead of the three inch wire pole we're gonna use something a little different with a knob I like to Center the knob along the bottom of the upper rail to install this the really the best way is to lay the cabinet down flat so we'll set the door in position I'll line it with my marks at the top and bottom that I laid out before and then I'll pull the door all the way over so that hinge touches the inside of that rabbit touches now the hinges have a little bit of spring to them as you can see when I push on the door that hinge will roll that'll give me a little bit of a gap and that's what I want for that hinge to clear so I'll hold the door tight and push down and drill one screw to install the drawer face I've applied some double-faced tape and I've made a one-inch spacer to provide a gap between the door and the drawer face add that set the drawer face in position check our alignment on the edge get that tape to work and I can throw a clamp on it so now I'll lay out for my knob and drill the hole this time I want to go through the drawer face but not into the cat into the drawer so I'm going to use the little tape as a flag I want to drill about a 7/8 inch deep hole that will go through the 3/4 inch drawer face and leave a little mark in the drawer front itself before we install the knob I need to permanently attach the face to do that I'll use some 1 inch screws the pilot hole for the screws will index where the drawer face is going to be attached to the drawer front before I can install the drawer face permanently I have to account for the head of the screw I can either countersink into the drawer face but I just like to create a little pocket in the drawer the drawer box itself so I just use a Forstner bit and create a little hole little dimple now I can add the knob and we're complete for this project we're going to take the drawer and door construction to the next step these are in these will be inset drawer and doors so that the door face and drawer face will set inside the cabinet frame with a reveal that's uniform all the way around we're also going to use drawer glides ball bearing full extension these have a 100 pound rating and they're pretty reasonably priced they come in two parts there's the part that mounts on the drawer and there's the part that mounts in the cabinet these are available in black white and in the Chrome to begin the drawer construction like we did before I'll set my glides in position and measure between them to account and figure out how big my drawer is I also will account for the fact that I'm going one 3/4 inch thickness of a drawer face so I'll take one inch off the depth of the cabinet to determine the length of my drawer sides so I pre-built the drawer and now let's install the hardware so we can show you how this drawer mechanism works the first thing we need to do is determine where the drawer is going to be positioned in the opening we've made the drawer one inch shorter just like we did before coming up a quarter of an inch and down three quarters of an inch so we have also a 4 inch tall drawer I'm at the hardware at the center point of the drawer so come up 2 inches from that point so two and a quarter inches will be the center line of my drawer hardware with the drawer face three-quarters of an inch thick I want to leave a one-eighth inch dimension between the back of the drawer face and the beginning of the hardware and you'll see why in a moment so I'll set my drawer or set my gauge to 7/8 of an inch and place a mark that's where the front of my drawer glides gonna go and that's the center of the screw holes I'll take my drawer glide apart there is no left and right there a uniform and it works best if you open it about half way and I can set that right in position and what I'm doing is I'm lining the bottom of this mechanism up with that line that we created and then checking the screw hole to be sure it's centered on the line then I can attach the first screw to complete the installation I just want to make sure the drawer glide is square now there's another way to do this if you have multiple drawers to install and that's to make a jig that fits between the top of the drawer glide and the top of the case so I would rip this piece to fit set it in position install the drawer hardware then I can flip the cabinet over put the piece on the other side installed install this glide and I know they will be perfectly parallel to install the remaining hardware it's narrower it will also go centered on the drawer Glatt drawer side 1/8 of an inch back the reason that is is there's oversized holes in the drawer glide inside and on the side of the cabinet and that eighth of an inch allows a little bit of a movement to make sure when I put the drawer in its final position it gives me a little room to adjust in and out and up and down draw a line in eighth of an inch back on both sides find our two-inch is the center of our 4 inch tall drawer again I've made a jig I can set the hardware in position line it with that eighth inch mark and drive my screws so we slide the door in and snap it in now the drawer will work freely and we've completed a full extension drawer glide installation now it's time to make the door and the drawer face I'm gonna make the drawer face from solid wood with an even reveal all the way around I'm also going to make the door to fit inside with an even reveal all the way around the reveal is going to be created by the thickness of the hinge so I'm going to use a non mortise hinge that's installed on the edge of the cabinet the nice thing about these I don't have to cut a mortise into this side of the cabinet or into the side of the door and the way the hinges have elongated holes allows for adjustment in and out and up and down I've chosen to make this door with a stub tenon and groove joint and I've made it so that it pretty much perfectly fits the opening I've done this because I want to trim it to have an even reveal if for example this rail was slightly askew I want to be able to trim this to make that fit I know in this example that my hinge is 1/16 of an inch thick my door perfectly fits the opening so I'm going to rip a sixteenth of an inch off each edge of the door to cut the top and bottom edge of the door I really don't want to cut it at the table saw like this because my my stock is narrower than it is wide what could happen is I push it through it could kick back and throw the panel kind of a dangerous operation so I'd much rather have a crosscut sled that I could cradle this in and really control the cut to do that I've made a piece of material that's the same width and height maybe I'm just slightly taller than the surface of my in the groove and my table saw I've taken a piece of half-inch plywood and added a backer strip I've got some double faced tape I'm gonna put on the runner to ensure the fence at the back of the sled is Square to the blade I use my rip fence as a guide I want the end of the sled to extend past the blade slightly you'll see why in a moment press down to stick the runner to the sled then fold over and drive screws to secure it with the runner secure I trim the end of the sled so now I can line the on my workpiece with the edge because it's exactly where the blade will cut we're gonna install glass in this door now whether you use the stub tenon and groove method or the cope and stick method the process is the same we're gonna remove the tongue right here so the glass can be set in we'll put a glass stop in place that way if the glass breaks you can remove it and replace the glass it also gives you the option here with glass of doing some things different stained glass redid glass different things to maybe emphasize the design you're looking for so I've even though I have a router mat I still like to clamp it to the table and we're gonna route now normally I would route this direction but because we're gonna be coming into this end it can split out so what you may find is that climb cutting is actually a more preferable method we'll go ahead and route it and then we're gonna take a chisel and we're going to clean up the corners where the router couldn't reach I've cut my glass top to fit and now I'm going to install it now I can do this two ways I could use some wire Brad's drill the holes ahead of time set them in place set the brad in place and use a tack hammer and tap them in but I really like to use a micro pin err a 23 gauge nailer the holes are so small that you really can't even see and you don't have to fill them now normally I would have my finish on the project before I install these but for demonstration purposes so I can just take my pin err set it in position now it's time to install the drawer face I've trimmed the door face to size making it the same length as the door is wide and also cut it so that I have a 1/16 inch gap top and bottom to install it I'm going to use the hinges as a guide because we're using the thickness of the hinge as our clearance around everything we might as well use them as a aid when we're installing the drawer face so I can just set it in place I've got double faced tape on the back Center in the opening and clamp it I'll drill my hole going 7/8 of an inch deep I've installed the hinges so that the top of the barrel is even with the bottom of the upper rail and the bottom barrel of the lower hinge is flush with the top of the lower rail so now we need to installed in the cabinet the best jig is a quarter I've laid the cabinet on its side and place the door on two pieces of 3/4 inch scrap material now I can slide the door into the barrels touch the face frame bring it in contact using the quarter as a spacer between the bottom of the cabinet and the bottom of the door and then drill my hole I've got my hinges installed let's check the fit hope I'm touching right here and I've got a nice gap here using our panel sled we'll be able to clean that joint up I've placed my door on the sled and I've lined up this top edge of the door where I don't want any material removed with the edge of the saw blade down at the bottom of the cut I've made it so that my sixteenth of an inch is overhanging the end of my sled make sure everything's pulled tight and now I need to shim the bottom of the door it looks like I can probably do just a business card will do it maybe two yep there we go flush up here slight gap down here oh that's much better now when you put the knob and the catch on I've installed the knob as we did before and now I've added a spring catch I installed it just about an eighth of an inch below the top of the door I'll add the receiver and close the door and then I can reach in grab it open the door and now I can mark where those screw holes belong if you don't have a drawer opening if your back is not attached you can reach through it also hold that spring catch I also want to take a minute to talk about knob location and that spring catch location if the door is gonna be open generally from the center of the door I'm gonna put my knob near the center or maybe in the direction towards I'll be reaching like an upper cabinet that may be this high off the ground I may put it in like the lower third of the door maybe down a little lower I might put it move it down if this is an upper cabinet I'm gonna put the knob down here but I'm also going to try to put the spring catch as close as possible to the pull action of the knob so that I'm not having a catch here and twisting on the door every time I open and close it we're gonna install three drawers in this cabinet I've laid it on its side and laid out how tall my drawer faces are I've got an eight and a quarter inch tall drawer and eight and a quarter inch tall drawer and a five and a quarter inch tall drawer with 1/8 inch spaces between each opening now I need to figure out where to put the drawer glides I've laid out a mark 7/8 of an inch back so I know where the drawer glide is in front to back as I did before I also am going to lay out a quarter inch up from the bottom of each drawer face for the bottom of the drawer here here and here my drawer faces my drawers in this case I'm gonna make a 7 inch tall drawer so I drew the center line I have a 7 inch tall drawer and the center line and a 4 inch tall drawer and a center line so in each location I have a drawer my quarter inch up from the bottom to the bottom of my drawer and then found the center line for my glide for the larger two eight and a quarter inch drawer a 7 inch drawer box that is a quarter inch but above the bottom of the drawer side drawer face so I'm going to use a spacer so I set my first drawer glide in position and I cut a piece of plywood to go from the bottom of my cabinet up to the drawer glide I'll install that drill guide with screws I'll flip the case over using this jig I'll then match the corresponding drawer glide on the other side of the cabinet I positioned the next drawer glide and cut my spacer down I'll flip the cabinet over install this other side with the jig and I'll repeat trimming the jig to install my lower drawer glide and then I'll be ready to install the drawers in the case when installing drawer slides to a centerline as you can see I've drawn the centerline on the side of this drawer box we have elongated holes and round holes I always attach using the elongated holes so that I can adjust my drawer glide up and down not only can I adjust it now but after the drawer faces are installed if there's any adjustment I need to do after the finish is applied wherever that wherever your next step may be if I need to I can adjust up and down when I'm finally happy with all the placement of all the drawers and hardware I can then secure through the round holes and it'll lock everything in position I've installed all my drawers now it's in time to start applying the drawer faces I've pre applied some double-faced tape but before I ready to stick them I want to make sure everything's fitting just right I'm gonna use 1/8 inch spacers and set the first drawer in place had the next one I've left my tape on here to make sure everything's going as it should that's gonna work out pretty good so I apply the double face tape and install the knobs and secure the faces as I did before now that we've seen how to create a basic lock rabbet joint on the table saw and on the router I'm going to show you how to make a modified version of that this example shows a drawer with an integral drawer face using that same lock rabbet joint as you can see here the drawer side is a half inch thick just like we did before but the drawer face is three quarters of an inch thick basically the extra quarter of an inch overlaps the drawer side so that you can't see that it's kind of a modification of a half-blind dovetail so how do I get a drawer that has like a that has a piston motion with no glides to fit in that opening so it works just spot-on what I'll do is I'll create a piece of blank for my drawer side I'll cut it about maybe a half or three quarters of an inch too long and I start with the piece the same width as the drawer opening and I'll try to fit it in obviously it's not gonna fit and then maybe take a 30 second off check it it still might be a little snug I find about a sixteenth of an inch is about the right dimension to remove from the width of the part versus the height of the opening and I can test how that drawer is gonna fit and slide once I'm satisfied with that I'll go ahead and cut the joinery and I'm going to show you that how to do that on the table saw once I've got the joinery cut on the side and on the face I'll slide the side in and attach attach the face temporarily in position here the drawer width should be about 1/16 inch narrower than the opening in this example if I'm doing a larger drawer it might be an eighth inch but probably a sixteen it's gonna work when I'm satisfied with that fit I can then measure because my sides too long I can measure from the front to the face frame to determine exactly how much I need to take off that drawer side so that drawer face is perfectly flush one more detail I've got a I've got a gap now at the top and the drawer will naturally fit in there with a little bit of gap on each side but I want to create that same reveal all the way around so to create that reveal at the bottom I just create a slight rabbet on the front of the drawer face and now I've got that reveal uniform all the way around so let's go cut that joint basically we're gonna make a rabbet cut and then need a cut and end cut in this board well that's kind of a dangerous operation to just be up against the fence we need a little support so what I've done is I ripped a piece of material - about five inches in width this is six inches tall I've ripped this to fit on top of the fence another piece for the other side and then we'll add a stop block then we can clamp our board and have a carrier for making a safe cut the drawer sides receive a dado just like when cutting a regular lock rabbet joint when setting up to cut the drawer front at a 1/4 inch spacer between the RIP fence and blade then using a drawer side as a gauge set the blade height to match the top edge of the dado cut a rabbet at each end of the drawer front with this setup remove the spacer and place the saddle jig over the RIP fence position the fence the tongue you just created fits between the jig and the blade clamp the drawer front to the jig and make the cut when the joint fits together the drawer front covers the ends of the drawer sides I hope we've removed the fear of building doors and drawers in this video you know we've seen a lot of different options 5 different drawers three different doors three different hinges two different drawer glides the options are endless but they all follow one basic premise prepare your stock properly and test the fits don't let doors and drawers stop you from building your next project you can do it for more information and project plans visit us at Wood magazine.com be safe in the shop and good luck [Music]

Channel: WOOD magazine

Views: 407,517

Rating: 4.8709292 out of 5

Keywords: WOOD magazine, woodworking, how-to, project, plan, carpentry, tool, technique, review, table, saw, band, miter, cabinetry, cabinet, making, make, build, door, doors, drawer, drawers, construct, construction, partial, overlay, inset, lock, track, rabbet, rabbit, guide, glide, slide, hardware knobs, panel, frame, align

Id: B7PTmKugR-s

Length: 84min 16sec (5056 seconds)

Published: Sat Oct 05 2019