How to Build a Frosty T-Burner (Propane Forge) Step-by-Step Process

welcome back this time we're gonna build a burner for the forge so I'm gonna walk you through my steps of putting this together and I'm basing this off Frosty's plans it's a frosty tea burner as what it's known as so if you do a search for that I'll put a link in the description to frosty is the handle of a guy that's from Alaska and he builds these Forge burners and has been for a long time so I'm gonna pretty much follow his plans but I had to make some modifications based on what was available to me these burners are known as venturi burners these atmospheric burners and they are based on the Bernoulli principle the Bernoulli principle says that a moving stream of fluid causes lower pressure and so what this does is the venturi effect then talks about constricting airflow through a smaller diameter pipe and so if any kind of fluid is going through a smaller diameter then what happens is it speeds up that that airflow and that faster moving fluid according to Bernoulli's principle creates a lower pressure alright here's everything you're going to need for this burner to put it together you're going to need a high pressure regulator this one goes up to 20 pounds or you can get one that goes up to 30 pounds this hose is 3/8 flare fitting and you got to figure out a way to go from flare fitting to the rest of your piping and I'm gonna be going down and reducing it to quarter-inch so I have 3/8 flare here and then I'm gonna be hooking that up with a 3/8 bushing that goes to the 3/8 pipe threads then reducing it down to quarter-inch pipe threads this regulator I got off Amazon I'll put links in the description to some of the parts that I had to order online for these pipes doesn't really matter how long they are over here you could actually hook this up in a shorter run if you wanted to to the burner but this is so that I have this stuff away from the forge a little bit it gives me a little bit of distance and I have room for some of the you know like the pressure gauge and the needle valve so this is a nipple this one's six inches long and then I have this needle valve I'll put a link in the description for that then I have just an emergency shutoff valve another nipple this is a six inch from here I'm going from a quarter-inch 90 pipe threads here's pipe threads now this is going to quarter-inch flare then I'm going to this coupler here between this flare fitting and this this piece here is quarter-inch flare to 8-inch pipe threads and what you're going to need is you're going to need to tap the tee this is a one inch to 3/4 inch tee it's one inch on both sides and three-quarter inch here you're going to need a tap to tap that eighth inch pipe threads so it would look like this this is eighth inch by 27 NPT luckily my neighbor had that I didn't have to buy that so I'm going to tap that and then inside here you're going to use a MIG tip and this is point zero three five diameter and to tap that so that it can screw in here you're going to need a quarter by twenty eight tap so you're going to tap threads here so that you can screw in one of these MIG tips you're going to need a three quarter inch nipple either six inch or 8 inch it's going to screw in here and then at the end what I'm using is a stainless steel reducer from 3/4 inch to one inch I ordered this also on Amazon I'll put a link in the description for that but that's going to be my burner nozzle that'll be in the Forge to make sure that this hole that you drill and then tap is completely centered so that the MIG contact tip is directly in the center of this tube pushing that propane directly in the center what frosty recommends is that you get this flange and a closed nipple here and you set it up like this so when you put it on the drill press you have a way to keep it completely square assuming that your table for your drill press is square that way you're not going to be moving it left or right and be off it should be able to drill and tap that exactly in the center one last thing you're going to need is propane rated tape just to make it a little bit easier to get those pieces together gives it a little bit of lubrication doesn't really necessarily seal it but it helps to lubricate the threads a little bit and this is rated for propane use I'm gonna use the calipers to find the center here take the overall dimension and I'm going to cut it in half so I Center punched exactly in the center here so that's where we're gonna drill in tap I need to clamp this down I'm gonna use one of these cheap six-inch Harbor Freight wood clamps and what I did is I took a grinding wheel and I shaved off that little nub at the end so that I can take this completely off and then you can feed it through your table have that clamp down now it can be assured that this is going to go exactly square it's not going to be off left or right or anything like that this 1/8 by 27 tap takes a 2164 drill bit it doesn't hurt to do a pilot hole so that's I'm going to do here since I already have this bit set up now is the most critical part I've got to make sure that I tap these threads completely straight so what I'm going to do is going to put it in the Chuck but I'm going to retract the Chuck enough that I can grab around the cylinder outside diameter because this is a three jaw Chuck and this has four sides it's not going to square up if I don't put it all the way in there so I'm going to put it all the way up there and then grab it and I just quick turn it on make sure it's centered nice and centered so I can bring this up and get it lined up just the way we want it I'm gonna slowly lower this and turn it by hand to get it started applying downward pressure and turning it and backing it out and use some cutting fluid if you want never a bad idea you can hear Laurel up there playing some piano getting pretty good one thing that I'll mention is that this eighth inch tap is tapered so is the fitting that's gonna be good last step is going to be to tap the threads to accept the mid contact tip in here and that's going to be with a quarter inch by twenty eight tap and I don't have to drill this beforehand because it's so close to being the right size it only really needs to cut a little bit out you got to test these fittings each fittings a little different and what that inside diameter is and make sure it's not too big this one is just the right size if the inside dam Raider is any larger it wouldn't work so let's see how that is so far ideally I want to have this end about halfway down that plate and that usually improves it but that's part of the tuning of this you have to experiment with how it's burning I could just do it like this and see how it burns and then adjust it which is what I think I'm going to do instead of cutting it off I'll see how this one burns like this they're all gonna be a little bit different you can also put a flap on here to control the air on either side here's the whole setup put together and I'm out of my garage now where I have my Forge this is a forge that build a little while ago that I've been using off and on for the past year and now I finally got it tuned in and it's working really nice especially with this t burner so click on here and I'll show you a link of a video on how I built this Forge but I actually built two of these setups so far one for my dad's Forge and one for this Forge so for this Forge I already welded on a bail reducer here to the top of my Forge so I didn't need to use that stainless steel bail reducer that I showed you that was in the layout that one I actually used for my dad's Forge and here's some footage of that Forge you can see it in action and I had to use slightly different pieces than what I showed you in the layout from that but basically the same setup and used the same style burn I'm gonna bring you in a little closer here next and I'm gonna show you this in more detail and talk to you about how I fire this Forge up okay you can see it's all put together here and you can see I use the yellow propane rated tape to put all those different joints together the only other thing that I'll mention here is I have this bracket here that help support this cantilevered section as have the pipe hanging off here that way it's a nice solid connection I just use a pipe clamp here and I welded this down here onto the side of my Forge that really helps reduce the stress that would be right on that small piece of copper piping right there that goes in between this union right here it's getting kind of late to fire this up tonight I think what we'll do is take a break fire it up tomorrow and show you the sequence and show you how it burns so for this setup I'm going to turn the tank on first I'm going to open that up and I'm basically going to open up the valves from the tank to the burner so I have this one then I'm going to do the high-pressure valve that opens in the opposite direction and then what I do is I until I read my Gage and I can tell how much pressure I have I'll show you that so I'm going to open this up until I'm showing some pressure and I usually like to have somewhere around about five on the gage to start it up fire it up so now I know I have pressure there then the last thing I'm going to do is I'll open up this needle valve I'll be ready with my propane torch to light the Forge and when I hear the gas flowing that's what I'm going to light it [Laughter] well there you go that's how you put together one of these frosty tea burners I hope this was helpful to you let me know if you have any questions or comments put them in the section below and until next time I'll see you later

Channel: Vintage Wood Workshop

Views: 89,782

Rating: 4.8226242 out of 5

Keywords: forged in fire, alex steele, alec steele, blacksmithing, woodworking, jimmydiresta, matthias wandel, essential craftsman, black bear forge, forge, burner, t-burner, atmospheric burner, forge burner, propane burner, how to, diy, maker, will matthews

Id: 9qWqLi3Unq8

Length: 11min 43sec (703 seconds)

Published: Wed Nov 28 2018