How to Build a Floating Platform Bed! (Materials & Instructions in Description)

hey gang welcome back to the channel so today's video is a little bit different for us but we're super excited to start this project we're gonna be building a platform bed floating bed the two are going to be kind of fused together we have some downtime with our main projects that we're working on in I don't have a bed so I have a bed but just not a bed frame so we're gonna build a custom bed frame because if you can build the materials and do it yourself then why not write what we got over here is we've got some super cheap framing lumber and I know you guys might be skeptical skeptical about it but just trust us we have 12 two by sixes that are eight feet long over here we've got eight slats for the bed to sit on to support it we've got eight slats they're gonna be one by fours eight feet long and then back here we've got two four by eight sheets of masonite that we picked up this was all about $95 for us where we live with the sales tax and everything included so it might be a little different where you guys live but all of this material was about $95 for us that's obviously not including the tools that were gonna use but if you're gonna pick up the lumber that's what its gonna be so the vet is gonna be made up of two pieces it's gonna be the top frame which is gonna be the platform piece of the bed it's gonna be the part that the mattress sits on and then underneath is going to be the base that kind of creates that floating effect that we're looking for so we're actually gonna work on the top first that way we have a good reference point when we go towards the bottom piece so we've got all of our lumber we've got our measurements I'm actually gonna throw them up on the screen as we're making our cuts so you guys can see and follow along with us but we're running out of daylight so let's get these cuts started [Music] hey gang so we're going to pre-drill all our holes in our two by sixes and we're going to mark them because we want all the screws to look like they're even we could do it freehand but this is much better so we want to be three quarters of an inch in from the edge so I set my combination square three-quarters of an inch and then I'm just gonna do that I already did this one and you don't need a combination square right to achieve this it just saves you a lot of measuring right now we want the screw to be an inch from this edge so I'm gonna change it to an inch right there and then we just hit them all one two three four and then we'll I ball the middle you sure I'm getting my micrometer out I'll make sure link will be okay and you can use a regular tape measure for this yep and you get the same result this will just save you a little bit of time and that combination swear is not actually too expensive if I wanted to pick up yeah this is actually a this is a starett hmmm that I've had for a long time right we could eyeball the middle hole but we're measuring everything else so we're gonna measure so half of five and a half is two and three quarters and what's five and a half the width of this sweet yes so you could see we just use a tape measure you could also adjust this two and three quarter and the beauty of this is there's no air you eliminate the risk of an error right and if you're gonna be wrong you want to do it consistently so it looks that's how we do intention we're consistently wrong all right cool let's pre-drilling [Music] see if we didn't treat drill this would split right yeah you want a pre drill when you're working on the end of the boards the tweezers 18 holes now we're ready to assemble the base and to assemble the base we're just going to be using these grip right construction screws three inches nothing crazy and they're good for budget builds guys so we're down here on the concrete and assembling on concrete is rough because a lot of the times it's uneven and a lot of the times it's slopes so what we've done is we've taken our scrap one by fours and we've kind of laid them below our pieces where we're gonna be securing the screws that way it gives us more of a level playing field essentially so we're just going to go ahead and drive these in and secure this puppy huh [Music] all right so we've got our frame assembled now we're gonna go ahead and again using the 1 by 4 scraps to make everything flush and give us a better chance against this concrete we're gonna put those underneath our middle stretcher and we're gonna go ahead and secure this puppy in there [Music] this board has a little bit of a twist in it and I can't get it square by hand so we're going to run this screw in the bottom as a pivot point then we're going to put this clamp on it I'm gonna give me plenty of leverage to pull that board Square to this one sweet let's get that twist out in security [Music] all right so we've got our frame assembled this is gonna be the top piece pretty fast and pretty easy so now we're gonna lay the slats out across the top but before we do that we're gonna go ahead and pre-drill them we know that our our framing lumber are two by sixes right here are gonna be an inch and a half wide so we're coming to the slats and just marking them at three-quarters of an inch all the way around with the combination square and that's gonna be where our two screws are gonna go so we're marking them out and then we're gonna go 3/4 on both sides right there so it's just 3/4 all the way around and then we're just gonna pre-drill them all super quick and install them so let's get these pre-drill real quick flat attach with two screws and this one attached so we have six more to attach that means seven spaces so we just shoved them all down there I'm gonna measure this distance we're gonna make a 555 we're gonna divide that by seven and cut two blocks that length and that'll be our spacer we don't have to measure anything so we'll use our phone and just divide 55 by 7 which is we'll figure it out yeah all right and then we're gonna cut the spacer blocks and use those to make all of the gaps even even though you could eyeball it but that's how the stud pack does it we want it to look pretty even though no one's gonna see it and anytime you can take the tape measure out of it do it right now all right so 55 divided by 7 7.85 so we'll call it seven and seven eighths sure 7/8 of an inch would be eight to five right so we're a couple thousand soft I think we can deal with yeah so yeah all right cool all right guys so we got our two spacer blocks at 7 and 7/8 we've got one on this end and we've got one over there and we're just gonna go ahead and lay them out use the spacer blocks sync them with just a couple of screws we're not gonna fully secure it yet just in case and we're just gonna make sure everything looks nice and secures nice and once it's all done and laid out then we'll go ahead and sink the rest but that's the setup so let's go ahead and get these all knocked out [Music] and so that's all of them down with our spacer block but we only have two screws in each one so we got to secure it for real this time now that we know the spacing is good and everything looks good so we're just gonna go around and sink the rest of them [Music] and we got this part of the bed all complete the slats are all attached with all the screws so now it's time to attach this 2 by 6 right here which will make the lip yeah so just the mattress is going to be on top and this is going to be around the mattress and bound of that and so this is an inch and a half plus the one inch is two and a half inches so I set my square for two and a half inches made a mark there and I made a mark here and the distance from the headboard to here will be the short point of this miter now we can pull out all our measurements off of these right it'll make sense when we start cutting yeah but again I'm using this I got a mark there you can see we just line that up with those marks and that's where we're gonna attach it and we're gonna come underneath here with some screws to attach this to the frame part we're going through the slats right and it'll be super strong and you won't see any screws [Music] all righty guys so we have our two sides mitered they turned out beautifully and again if you don't have a miter saw you can always use a circular saw or even a handheld saw you might not get as clean up as a result but it can be done we're gonna go ahead put these up on the sawhorses like we've done here so we have access underneath to screw them and so what dad's doing is he's going around with a combination square and he's marking how deep are you right now I'm at 1 in 3/4 all right so he's going around and marking them all at 1 and 3/4 and what that's gonna allow us to do is get far enough away from this screw so that we don't split it when we come up from underneath to secure this guy because that's how we're doing it we're going through the slat so this is just to let us know that when we pre drill our holes it's essentially just kind of like a safety barrier so we don't get anywhere near these screws just to be sure that it doesn't split you wanna go it a little bit of it a little bit of angle yeah I say a little bit I say a little bit more maybe yeah that's good I think boom we're just lining it up with these yeah we're just using our screws now we already have down as a reference so we're gonna get all these pre-drilled and we'll see you guys when it's all done we've got all the holes pre-drilled you can see here they're all pre-drilled that it's kind of a slight angle but first we wanted to talk to you about keeping your bed frame square so what are we doing so before we put the slats on and we had this this frame mate we check diagonals this is 105 and a half right you here yep and then we check that one and when they're the same its square this was a rectangle so if the diagonals are the same in this the corners are 90 degrees right you know and we're within a quarter inch yeah less than that yeah so we're pretty square but we just wanted to show you guys that just so you don't have a lopsided bed cool so let's go ahead and secure these two lips yeah so we're gonna attach them from the bottom and then we'll use the two secured lips to get our final measurement for the front lip that way we can cut it to fit so let's go ahead and secure these down real quick so I secured the end and now I'm gonna secure the other end that way I don't have to worry about it shifting and not being on our marks and then we'll go ahead and secure everything else in the middle [Applause] [Music] [Applause] whoo that's starting to look like a bed right there that's awesome but we are racing against the clock the Sun is going down we've got a beautiful sunset and now we just got to cut this thing to like 70 71 and 716 71 and 7/16 that's what we want for a tight miter so we're gonna go ahead and miter both edges and and install this thing let's get these cut you might have to sleep outside the night if we don't finish it at least we got a place let's get it [Music] [Applause] [Music] all righty guys so the miters are cut and it looks absolutely amazing we're gonna go ahead and pre-drill and secure it down we cut it a little long and then just kept shaving material off because you can always take off but you can't add more woods so it fits really good and if you want to take another approach and if it's a little long instead of trying to risk getting another perfect miter you can always leave this loose only secure it up there leave this loose and then just bring this piece out a little bit and have it floating because you'll never be able to tell that this isn't perfectly 90 degrees right there and it'll match up really nice as well so that's another little trick so let's go ahead and pre-drill into the slat and look at the grain it looks like the grain is this mad it looks like it's one piece of wood yeah yeah that's awesome we planned it that way right let's get them pre-drilled and let's secure that lip and then we'll build the bottom frame and we'll probably be running out of light right around that time [Music] [Applause] [Music] and there you have it guys a sick platform bed everything is square level secured super strong everything you want put a plane over there to pull these miters together right right there little mending plate yeah sure now we got to build this bottom piece that was what not even two hours not even two hours not even two hours and not even 100 bucks right and it really does look good I'm kind of blown away a little bit all right well let's take those last two by sixes and build the bottom box that it's gonna be sitting on top of all right let's build it real quick and as for the bottom base of the bed we have two cuts that were making we've got two pieces at 68 inches and two pieces at 41 and a half inches so these are already cut and now we're just gonna go ahead and mark them and pre-drill and assemble it just like we did earlier on in the video so we're gonna go ahead and get this thing put together real quick and see how she sits up [Music] alright guys so the Sun beat us today we have to come back tomorrow and finish this up so tomorrow what we're gonna be addressing is this probably it's so wobbly if you roll out of bed it's gonna fling you across the room so in order to prevent that we actually have to put some more two-by-sixes underneath this slap so we have a point of connection it from the bottom frame to the top frame right here so we just have to make it a little more sturdy but we're gonna go ahead and do that tomorrow so we'll see you guys then alrighty guys it is the next day here with the bed build and if you guys remember at the end of last night when time ran out on us we were about to cut the two by sixes for the braces that are gonna be underneath the slat to support the bed to keep it from wobbling so if you'll come over here to the miter saw with me you can see that we've got this last two by six and we're actually gonna go ahead and cut this and off you can see that this is kind of garbage right here especially since we're coming in this way with the screws that's how we're gonna be attaching it we're going through into the end grain so we don't want all this so we're just gonna go ahead and chop that off and make our measurement from this and this nice clean edge so what's our measurement thirty and a half okay so we're gonna cut this off and then hit thirty and a half twice hey gang the purpose of these blocks were installing is to make up the difference between this gap here on the platform and the base let me let me show you so this is 71 inches the base is 71 inches and then we're 71 inches to this line so this block is on that line just imagine that this is is the base see it's gonna go like that so the base is gonna support this very well yep and we're gonna secure it we can connect them together so we're all drilled and let's put the screws in cool we took the bed off with the sawhorses and we put it on the ground on the base so what we're gonna do the plan is to attach this part of the bed to the base with these blocks we want to get first because this block will help us position this one put this in first here we'll screw it into here and then we'll screw it into this block and then we'll put these in that way this face will be perfectly flush right right let's drilled all these first okay we got a little setup going yeah so Jordan didn't want me to mark all the blocks so I told him there's a little trick we can do so I just marked this one it's not perfect doesn't have to be these blocks it's fine right so we're just gonna go ahead and get all these drilled and then secure the base to the top done but before we secure everything in place with the two by sixes on the inside securing the top to the bottom we have to get everything lined up to make sure the bed the top piece is centered over the bottom piece so what we've done is we've measured both of these distances right here we've measured the bottom and the top we actually have our distances right here so the top is sixty five and a half divide that by two comes out to thirty two and three quarters and the bottom is 41 and a half divide that by two is twenty and three quarters so we've gone ahead say this line yep that's like line and that line and so we just got to line those up those are our Centers when they're lined up when they're lined up there we're good this line is off but how come that's off right there shouldn't screws be in the middle the screws should be in the middle but we're just gonna go ahead and say that that's a bad measurement on your these tape measures that have the eight song yeah they just yeah so all right so let's go ahead and screw these two by sixes in [Music] get torque screws yeah big time-saver yeah definitely want torque Smith cool we got those two in that looks awesome let's see if our lines match up they do perfectly and so now we're just gonna head on over to the front of the bed and do the same thing before we secure the two by sixes to the actual top frame yeah put a line there so this should be a foot it is see that right on it we plan on the foot overhang yep and line this up at the foot checking for a foot on that side you got it all right screws are behind you cool so we're gonna go ahead and screw these two blocks into these two by sixes right here and we'll update you guys when it's all finished but we got them suck they look great and this piece this two by six is pulled tight up against this nice and flat let's see if I can reach underneath here you guys can see it's nice and flush right there it looks awesome so now we're just gonna go ahead and install our second piece but before that we gotta secure these in right alright guys so we had to use the hammer to hit that 2x6 in but it was really good because securing this block before gave us a really good backer piece to kind of hit into yep so now you know you're not overextended and you guys can see that right there it looks real good I mean it's flush and everything's ready so we just got two more screws to sync let's get it put those two three here yep three there and then we'll give it a flip test [Music] that's a beautiful toenail dad thank you toe screw I say nail yeah hmm all right sweet it's tilting a little bit but once you get the mattress on there I mean nothing is laying pretty heavy yep nope we're not gonna be doing balancing acts on the lip yep and it's not tilting your shoes yeah it's not tilting at all when you're sitting on it it's super super sturdy we use our straps for this yeah those are two by six scraps over here yep that plywood wheat that plywood came from another project but everything else is just scraps so the final thing that we have to do to get the bed ready before the finishing process is to cut that masonite in the back and lay it on top so let's go ahead and cut that real quick this masonite sawdust is pretty fun well this masonite sawdust is pretty fine he's my whole life and two in a row pop right there okay I tried I tried to be safe so I have a track saw if you don't the home centers can cut this for you on their panel saw yeah just ask an employee yeah here we go so we just got the masonite cut to link and now we're gonna cut it to wit we're actually gonna cut the sheets equal sizes that way we have two sheets that are equal in case we want to move it in the future that way we're not moving a big 4 by 8 piece and then a small piece it's just thinking down the road so we've got our measurement we're gonna go about 30 and 1/8 on both of them so we're just gonna make one cut so let's rip this sucker and see how she fits up whoo that's sweet alright guys so the Assembly of the bed is complete the bed itself is complete but I'm not using the word finish because we still have to actually finish the bed which means we have to sand it stain it and put some poly on it so we're gonna go ahead and get started with that process but before I can get jump-started on that I'm actually gonna remove the edges so these three pieces on the edge I'm gonna remove them so I could sand and finish the entire board and go ahead and access the bottom here so let's go all these screws removed so we can access the whole board all righty guys so it's time for everybody's favorite part the sanding I've got my orbital sander here we're gonna start with an 80 grit we're gonna work our way up through 120 and then finally we're gonna hit 220 and we're starting with 80 because since this is framing lumber we want to be pretty aggressive with it on the first pass to get all the all the blemishes and whatnot out of the way so I'm not gonna waste any time I'm just gonna throw it in a time lapse mode listen to some music and get the sanding done so we'll see you guys when it's all completed [Music] all righty guys we just got our first lip edge completely sanded down with some 80 grit and it was pretty aggressive like I said to kind of knock off a lot of those blemishes but I think a lot of people have a misconception about Pinewood in general they think it's kind of like a low-grade you know shouldn't use it if it's built out of pine a kind of attitude and I mean pine is a beautiful wood and it stains really well and I think it just kind of gets a bad rep and if you sand it and you prep it nice I think it comes out beautifully and you can already tell just from these two boards that I have side by side what a difference even one pass with the sander can make I mean it really starts to reveal how awesome this pine wood is so I'm gonna go ahead and get the rest of it sanded which includes the entire base and these two lip edges I'm gonna go ahead and sand them we got to go three sanding passes with three different grits it's gonna take me a little bit so I'm gonna put the music in and I'm gonna get it done and I'll see you guys then there we go guys we have completely sanded all of the edges that will be stained and that will be shown on the final product and if I get in close you guys can really see just what a difference it makes I mean it's a beautiful board the grain isn't beautiful and the stains really gonna help it to pop I can't wait to get all these poly coats on and whatnot so the next step is to completely vacuum this thing we want to free it of any dust and debris on there so we're gonna go ahead and use the shop back with a little bristle brush and we're gonna go ahead and just vacuum everything and get as much dust off as possible so let's get it done real quick [Music] all right guys so everything is sanded it's super smooth it is uh it just feels amazing and it looks amazing and we couldn't be more thrilled with how it turned out we decided to do this kind of last minute so we have a crack jig here a pretty vintage Kreg jig might I add yeah pretty sweet that's actually made of real metal yeah not plastic I don't think you could find this anymore but anyway this is gonna be the corner minor of the lip where the platform is where the bed's gonna sit and we noticed that when we had a preassembled earlier that the miters weren't perfectly flush with each other they weren't level and so in order to pull them together and pull them level with each other we're just gonna go ahead and drill two pocket screws going opposite ways of each other that way when we tighten them it's gonna pull everything nice and tight and lock it into place you could um if you don't have a Kreg jig you could use to mending plates on the bottom no one would ever see them you can even use biscuits if you got a biscuit joiner Domino if you want to go crazy but there's a lot of different options dowels even you can use but that's just what we're going to do because we want the miners to look real nice when it's all finished so let's go ahead and get these pocket screws pocket holes drilled step drill in there yep that's a step drill boom so that's the bottom view so this will go in there the screw going there to pull that miner together and we'll clamp it flush good yep and also we're gonna we wanted to drill that just right before we stain right now that way we can kind of stain into the pocket hole and it blends in a little more but it's getting real windy real chilly out here not the best staining environment so we're actually gonna move the operation inside to a more controlled area and we're gonna continue in there so let's get this thing moved up all right alright guys so we have to bed inside it's a nice controlled weight warmer environment and we've got the fans going for good air circulation so that's gonna allow us to finish this wood really nice first we're going to start with the pre-stain wood conditioner by vera Thane this stuff is essential you absolutely need it in my opinion it just turns the Fitness stain from you know kind of blotchy and in kind of beginner level to just like I mean it's gonna look incredible I've had great success with it over the years and I fully recommend this stuff and I always include it in my prog in my projects that I'm gonna be staining and then we decided to go with the Jacobean wood stain it's a dark kind of walnut a little darker than walnut stain but the beauty about pine and beauty about this project is that you could do any color you could paint it stain it you could even lean it leave a pine it doesn't matter whatever you guys want it's up to you we just decided to go with Jacobean so that's our stain and then we're gonna finish it off with a water-based polyurethane coating you guys can see it adds scratch resistance durability and it's got a fast dry time we chose satin because we didn't want it to be super glossy that's just the look that we wanted to go for I usually shoot for three coats of poly because in between coats you can stand it get all the little bumps ridges mountains down that might come in from you know outside so we're gonna go ahead and buff that down and it's gonna look absolutely awesome at the end I'm super excited to show you guys the finishing process but let's waste no more time we got these foam brushes this is what we're gonna use to apply with I've had great good success with these I know some people might not like them but I've never had a problem with them so and they're cheap so we're gonna go ahead and just apply this pre stain wood conditioner and let it soak in for about thirty minutes [Music] alright guys so it's been in about 30 minutes we've left our pre-conditioner dry and soaked into the wood and that's gonna prevent the blotchiness and it's going to our stain go down real nice and even so we're just gonna go ahead and start staining I mean there's no no point waiting we got the disposable gloves on it's must have this stuff will ruin anything that you wear so make sure that you're not wearing clothes that you care about or and also make sure you're wearing some clothes but let's see how this stuff lays down and you can see how it's just taking to the wood so much better that looks awesome we're gonna kind of pick up the pace boom that's quick that's sweet alrighty guys and there we go the stain is on and from what I'm seeing we're probably gonna keep it with one coat if the stain was dark enough to really accentuate different grain patterns in the wood and it's not even done yet I mean we still have to put the coats of poly which is gonna give it a beautiful satin finish and it's just gonna really elevate this finished job so we're gonna let the stain dry overnight because in my experience letting the stain dry overnight is the best possible way for you to guarantee a good finish getting impatient I struggle with patience myself I just want the project don't I want to sleep in this thing you know but we gotta let it dry overnight we gotta let the stain just completely do its thing and we'll come back tomorrow when it's all ready to go and apply three coats of poly let that dry and we'll be completed so we want to make sure that when you're wiping it off you don't have any drips oh man it looks so good so I'll see you guys tomorrow when it's time to apply the poly all right guys it is the next day and our stain has completely dried just to be safe we gave it a full day and it looks and feels absolutely amazing super smooth which is exactly what we want but now it's time to apply the water-based polyurethane so we're going to be using this stuff it's going to be satin water-based poly and we're gonna be applying three coats that's just what I like to do sometimes feeling crazy I'll go more but three is gonna be good enough for this bed especially since you're only gonna be seeing these lips right here and then in between each coat I'm going to be using this 3m finishing pad just to rub it scuff it up a little bit get it and get any high mountains bumps anything that's in the air that lands on the poly Balaji drying just just gonna buff it off and it's gonna make it look super nice in the end so let's go ahead crack this poly open and start applying our first coat [Music] alright guys so we just got our first coat of poly on our first piece and I just kind of wanted to show you the technique that I use with the phone brush so you guys can see that it's kind of cloudy and milky on top of the wood that's okay that's how it goes down so it's gonna dry clear but before it dries we want to take our brush there's a bunch of streaks and I don't know if you can see it but just kind of it just got applied a little unevenly so we're just gonna take our foam brush and we're just gonna drag it in a straight line all the way down the board and that's going to give us a nice straight and clean edge with the poly so it dries and it'll dry down the flat you kind of want like a 50/50 overlap on your previous pass okay and you just want everything to be super consistent and this will save you a lot of time with using the pad at the very end and they'll give you a really nice result at the very end and I can feel a lot of that excess being picked up by the brush I mean you can kind of already get an idea for how it's gonna look when it's all done but that's what I do I feel ready so that's gonna make such a huge difference in the end result but now we've got to finish the other two ports and the top frame let it dry for two hours hit it with two more coats using the pad in between and I'll show you guys what it looks like when we're all done alrighty guys I just wanted to interrupt real quick before I show you the end result to kind of go over this pad you can get these at any big-box store pretty much and after your first coat of poly and in between coats you're gonna rub your hands on it and you're gonna notice that it's not as smooth as when just the stain went down that poly kind of creates a rough texture that's totally okay we're not going to go too hard with this thing but you're just gonna give it a light like I'm really not even pressing that hard this is just to kind of scuff it up and smooth it out that way on our next coat of poly that we apply it's going to go down smoother and just give the whole thing a better finished look overall and already doing that light pass with this finishing pad has made the board a lot smoother and it just completely eliminates any of that high texture that we want to completely eliminate so you're just going to go ahead and run over the wood and that's really all we're going to be doing in between coats it's that easy alright guys so it is the end of the day and we have our two by sixes completely finished three coats of water-based polyurethane with a a little pad a little 3m finishing pad in between each coat also gave it a once-over after the third coat was dried just to get it nice and smooth and this thing looks absolutely incredible getting close to add so you guys can really see we did a satin base again and it just looks absolutely amazing it brings out the grain of the wood you guys can see the darker areas where the SAP wood reacted with the stain and the lighter where the heartwood interacted with the stain and it just gives it a totally unique look that we absolutely love so now that these are dry and ready to be installed we got to bring the frame and the pieces we got to install them brain all in the bedroom put the mattress on top and finished up with the project so let's go get that installed right now hey we got the bed in the bedroom and we're gonna flip it up like this against that wall and that way we can put our platform rails on it and screw it in from underneath we didn't want to put them on yet because we do want them to get damaged as we moved it into the room right let's take this thing up alright with the legs nice alright guys so it's time to install the lip I've got my screw on the drill here and I'm just gonna go ahead and get it priests started in our existing hole and then now that the screw is through we're gonna line up the lip hole with the screw and it's just gonna follow the trap pull it nice and close and we're just gonna continue to do that all the way up I'm inside you guys can see I'm like I'm inside the pre-existing hole nice and tight and now we're gonna go ahead and screw off the ones in between we're gonna leave the two at the top unscrewed because we want to get that minor joint up there perfectly tight with the pocket screws that we drilled earlier alrighty guys so now that we've got the bed back on the ground with a lip somewhat attached remember we're missing screws right here and right here on the closest connections but we're gonna go ahead and get these two and a half inch pocket screws with the square drive on the impact and we're just gonna go ahead remember we pre-drilled the pocket holes so we're just gonna come in at an angle and pull the mitre nice and tight so it looks awesome alright guys and you can see on this miter that there's a really big gap right there so that's why we left the screws off of this part so we can definitely get that adjustment the grain that's crazy how the grain lines up like that just naturally oh man it looks so good but we're gonna go ahead and secure two pocket screws in there get that thing pulled tight and it'll look amazing so let's get these pocket screws in Oh all right so you guys can see that that just I mean oh my god I'm so pleased it looks absolutely amazing so now we got a tip this thing back up against the wall get those last couple of screws in put the LED strip on put the mattress on and call it up go to bed yeah and then go to bed in it so let's flip this sucker up one last time alright so now that all the screws are in we got this LED strip right here and we're just gonna go ahead and secure it all along the base to get a nice glow effect when we lay it down so let's just go ahead and put this RGB strip on real quick boom oh my god that looks sick [Music] [Music] [Applause] all righty guys and there you have it the floating platform bed is finally complete after a couple of days assembling the bed to one-day staining took a day and applying the poly took about a day and we assembled it put the LEDs underneath and I couldn't be more thrilled with the final result I mean as you guys saw this thing looks absolutely incredible could not have asked for a better result honestly for $95 and an LED strip it completely transforms the room and it just gets me excited to come in here and into my space right so to the untrained eye you would never guess that this is pine it feels smooth it feels absolutely amazing the LEDs just to add a perfect touch to it and again just couldn't be more excited so thank you guys for watching the video if you enjoyed it make sure you hit the like button and subscribe to the channel we got a ton of projects on the way that we think you guys really enjoy thanks for watching it we'll see you in the next one [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music]

Channel: Stud Pack

Views: 2,787,957

Keywords: diy floating bed, diy platform bed, diy floating platform bed, how to build a bed, how to build a floating bed, how to build a platform bed, diy cheap bed, stud pack, LED bed, rgb led strip, best floating bed, best platform bed, bed for under $100, floating bed, platform bed, DIY floating bed frame with LED light, finishing wood, Cheap floating bed, DIY modern floating bed

Id: w1IAAps54SI

Length: 41min 49sec (2509 seconds)

Published: Sat Jan 25 2020