How To Build a Fast + Reliable GO KART!

in our last couple of videos we took this vintage kenbar Streaker cart back to its former glory once we were done we asked on Instagram what we should do next and the most comments we got were for our live axle kit from Go Power Sports and some Billet engine parts so in today's video we'll be installing just that now eating and debating tires I don't have many tips besides getting a nice set of Tire spoons maybe some tools like this one and then just struggle now that we've got the tires off the old Wheels it's time to install them on the new Wheels which are keyed for our new live action it's time to cut off this rear one wheel po setup so I can weld in the bearing hangers for the live axle [Music] [Music] foreign we're going to measure here from the spindle bracket and we're going to try and match the location of the old axle once we measured and located where our live axle bearing hangers were going to sit we sanded down the paint and we pulled out our Hobart multi-hander welder as you can see the welds turned out great and we love our Hobart welder because it makes projects like this quick and easy foreign foreign we finished mounting the bearing hangers on the cart covered up all the scuffs and scratches with a Fresh coat of paint and got it looking good as new so now it's time to focus back on the engine in the last couple of videos we took out the governor and put a Mikuni on it and now it's time to make it a little more bulletproof so we've got some 22 pound valve springs to eliminate valve float at high RPM and we've got some pretty cool Billet parts so for the next upgrade we have this awesome Go Power Sports Billet flywheel and it'll make a huge performance upgrade especially when paired with a Billet rod all right don't go in there bud hey I really needed this Bud thank you very much you're welcome all right I gotta go man back North Carolina safe travels thanks sorry about that guys last night we had picked up a hitchhiker and we let him use our bathroom he said he was going back to North Carolina I've never seen them before but I hope he's uh made it back safely now we're going to start breaking into this engine to install those Billet parts so we're going to start out with an eight millimeter socket and remove these bolts on the shroud foreign eight millimeter socket we're going to remove the coil I'll get a three quarter inch socket and remove the nut that holds the starter Cup on you can remove your starter cup and your fan and now we're going to remove the flywheel okay so we put crowbars on the stronger parts of the block and we threaded a nut on to protect our threads and out comes the flywheel so now this giant piece of cast iron will not be exploding on us and you know causing all bunch of injuries a couple 10 mils to get the side casing off so we started by getting our pissed into top dead center so that's where these two circles there and on the cam would line up that just makes a little bit easier to get to your bolts we then we took out our cam our flat tappets and our push rods and then we're going to break free these bolts and see how the stock rod bearings are let's take a look that's really not that bad actually I was expecting worse wear there's nothing to cut your finger on we're going to move the crank back so the whole goal of this is to not have to remove the head so I'm gonna have to start replacing the head gaskets and do all that all we'll have to do is set the valve lash at the very end now we're going to come around to the other side of the engine and remove our crank so we're just going to kind of wiggle it around the rod and voila so right now I'm just checking the oil clearance on our crankshaft so yeah it should be exactly at 1.188 and then plus or minus five tenths of a thousand and this will just give us a good idea that our oil clearance is all right we don't have plastic age so we can't really check this side of the clearance but you know if our cranks good we're probably good so now we're sliding out our piston and we just want to get it so that we can see the wrist pin and no more we don't want the piston rings to come out or anything so a little bit right there should be good okay so we're gonna get a pick and we're gonna get under this little tab right here and boom oh okay so we got the clip out and now I'm gonna use my pinky there we go and there is our stock Rod a little bit of wear but not very reliable put a little oil on these surfaces just so there's no wear when we first start it up and we're going to pop this back in so one thing you want to be careful of is to make sure you don't hit the serrated part of the rod on the crank or anything because that's kind of the mating service to make sure everything's lined up right ha so here's something that really shows the difference between these two rods so on the stock one you kind of have a oil flinger Dipper thing that just kind of you know dips in and splashes around now this has a scoop that has a channel that goes to the bearing so not only do you have real bearing material that are replaceable you also have an oil feed for that bearing rather than this one that just has a hole at the top so the stock one just has a hole and oil seeps in but this one kind of forces it in and there's a Groove so that's why we like these so much I'm going to make sure we've got a layer of oil on everything and put our crank back and once again making sure not to damage the serrated Parts on the rod that's in we're going to line up our notches on the bearings as we'll click right into place and we're ready we have our quarter inch 12 point bolts we're going to start by torquing them both down to 60 inch pounds and we're going to increase by increments of 20 up to 170 inch pounds all right and make sure to line these up at top dead center so perfect Arc says to lap the flywheel to the crank so we're gonna do that so we just have some valve grinding Compound on there and we're just going to lap it and just kind of work it in reinstall your Woodrow key then the flywheel for this flywheel they recommend a coil gap of 30 thou so we've got our feeler gauge here set to 30 thou I'm gonna check it get it snug and then tighten it now the last part of this engine build is going to be replacing the stock valve springs with some 22 pound valve springs so eight millimeter socket we're going to take off the valve cover and expose our valve train now we're going to install a 22 pound valve springs so you put your spring on first so we haven't done valve springs in a while and we're kind of struggling with this at first because we didn't know what we usually do but I think we just figured out the best thing that works for us with two people so we used a right angle pick and we put it inside the spark plug hole to hold the valves up so they can't fall into the cylinder then the other person will take both thumbs and just barely kind of hold the keepers into place leaving some wiggle room for them to fall into place and then you just compress the valve spring use the tips of your thumbs to move the keepers and as you all saw in video that was our first try for the exhaust port and we got it first try in a couple seconds [Music] now you get your feeler gauges back out you're going to set a valve lash of tooth out on the intake side and three thou on the exhaust side and what you'll need is a 14 millimeter wrench and a 10 mil ratchet to tighten up the nuts okay go forward once you feel a little bit of resistance that means your valve lash is set now we're going to fill it back up with some 10w30 the engine upgrades are complete and now it's time to move on to the live axle assembly now for the moment everyone's been waiting for we're gonna install the solid live axle right give her a spin Beauty refresh now we'll add on our lock collar for the bearing then our brake drum foreign also remember to put your sprocket where your clutch is going to be I'm ready we are in business we got our chain on our break over here everything's really neatly packaged we got all our locking collars set and there's our tire look all right now that she's all done it's time to put her down Beauty all right so it looks almost exactly like it did before except now we have a live axle yeah looks pretty sweet we got the paint to match pretty well with some rough spots but looks good yeah considering all the cutting and Welding we had to do on this thing it still looks pretty nice and we now have the added performance of having both Wheels getting equal power to the ground so it won't turn as well or handle as well because we don't have that one wheel peel and the one Freewheel but it'll handle much better off-road yeah yeah and that's what we're after and on top of that we've got some nice valve springs and Billet parts giving us reliability and more top end so this thing should be a little rocket [Music] [Music] all right [Music] all right guys this thing is a ripper live axle definitely reduces the steering a little bit you can probably hear the tires squealing a bit definitely if you're on dirt this thing would be far better though you wouldn't be spinning with your one wheel peel and then I mean if you have a woman peel you still lose traction sometimes you can't power out of turns as well what really impressed me the most about this car actually was the engine we got the Billet flywheel the Billet rod and those valve springs this thing rips I mean it it revs real high you know it just keeps pulling there's a whole different character to the engine [Music] all right all right so what was the top speed on those last couple runs so before we put all those Billet parts on it was 35 I think so we'll go to our screen recording here we go we'll give you the live reaction 43 on the first run 44 on the second round and another 44. sweet so we went from 35 to 44. so almost a 10 mile an hour that's a big deal for yeah the go-kart 200cc is like what percent is that you know pretty good do some math 30 35 by 44. 79 weight 20 increase in top speed that's pretty good that is really good so I'm happy with it [Music] foreign [Music]

Channel: Build Break Repeat

Views: 180,564

Keywords: gokart, go kart, go kart build, gokart build, build a gokart, how to build a go kart, gopowersports, build break repeat, kart, minibike, fabrication, live axle, predator 212, stage 2 predator

Id: sbD5b7WX3XI

Length: 17min 10sec (1030 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 05 2023