HOW I TOUCH UP MY BLONDE FOILAYAGE/HIGHLIGHTS & SHADOW ROOT AT HOME | PRO HAIRDRESSER TUTORIAL

hey guys welcome back to my channel and welcome if you're new for those of you don't know me my name is Sam I'm a professional hairstylist and today I'm going to be touching up my grown out foliage I just want to add a couple highlights up and through here if you can see my regrowth right here naturally it is pretty dark I'm about like a level five I would say just a little disclaimer I am a licensed professional I am NOT encouraging or condoning anyone to do this at home if you are not licensed and if you don't really know what you're doing and don't feel comfortable I'm gonna be using bleach in this video which will be pretty intense and if you don't know what you're doing you can potentially damage your hair or hurt yourself so if you are going to be following along with this tutorial proceed at your own risk so I'm going to start off first by sectioning my hair so I'm going to be working off of the middle part I always say if you're someone that flips your hair a lot work for a middle part but if there's always one particular spot that you park it in every single time no matter what then work off of that part so as you can see I kind of have these little money pieces here so I'm going to section that out and I do have a widow's peak so if I pull my hair straight back you can kind of see it like dips in a little bit like a V so I'm just gonna take that little widow's peak and just right here you can see all that regrow oh my god and then I like to work around my hairline as well because then when I pull my hair back which I do quite often especially now that it's summer I don't want all of this to be super dark so I'm gonna just follow my hairline so I'm just going to take a really thin section out from my hairline you can see that you can pretty much see through that so there are my hairline sections and I like to see these sections for last when I'm doing my own hair because if you start working by your face you're gonna have all these foils hanging in your face and they're gonna just make it a lot harder to see what you're doing now what I'm going to do is section down from the apex of my head so you can just place a comb on the top of your head and right where it starts to lift off you're going to come down just follow that around from ear to ear just like that and so all of this hair in the back I am just gonna tie away with the hair tie I'm not going to be touching that because really all that they care about is up top and around my face and I like to let the rest of it grow because then the more dark route that I have the more dimension it creates and the more it will make the highlights on the front pop okay so now we have our hairline section now and then we have these two pieces on either side of our head in the front so now a to start mixing up my product so what I'm going to be using is well a blonde or lightening powder this is my favorite light not to use and I'm just going to take like a scoop of that so now I'm going to mix in my developer I have a bottle of 10 volume and a bottle of 30 volume so I'm going to mix the two together to give me a 20 volume because I don't have a bottle of 20 volume on me at the moment so you mix equal parts of the two of these it will give you something right in the middle which would be 20 volume and personally I like be more runny formula with my Lightner I just feel like it's easier to saturate the hair that way it's easier to blend out and then I'm gonna take my olaplex I'm just gonna add a little bit olaplex is amazing it's seriously a magical product it's a bottom filter so while the bleach is going to go through and kind of break down the bonds of my hair and geeking them the whole class at the same time is going to be going right back in after it and repairing and strengthening them so that way my hair will not only not get damaged from this process but I find that it actually makes it feel a little bit healthier coffee break then you want to make sure that you also have your foils I'm just using regular old kitchen oils today and and you want a foiling comb or a rat tail comb to help you grab your pieces and weave and all that good stuff and then of course your applicator brush so I'm just going to make sure that there are no knots in my hair and now the sectioning that I'm gonna do this time around normally I've shown you guys in videos in the past I will link it down below where I will take a mohawk section so I'll go like around my part like this and then I will take horizontal foils going back like that so that way when I let my hair down everything is perfectly even and symmetrical around my part but I feel like because I've shown you that application before I'm going to do something different today so right where this section meets that hairline section do you see right here I'm just gonna come across in like a diagonal going down lower towards the back just like that and then this is where I'm gonna do my first foil so all of this hair underneath I'm gonna just leave I am just gonna come across like this in a diagonal back making sure that my sections are relatively thin and then I'm just gonna leave this and then I'm gonna take my foil hold my comb a few inches below the top of it fold the foil over the tail of the comb and then press it underneath that weaved piece of hair pull it nice and tight make sure that I'm holding it nice and tight up at the scalp and then I'm gonna take my product and I brought it down a little bit lower because I do kind of wanna lighten up that area where I had my own shadow root since we're bringing everything up a little bit higher so I'm just going to continue taking thin pieces leaving place an oil underneath and you want to make sure that you're really saturating the hair as much as possible because it's not you're not going to get the lift that you need just gonna fold decide to kind of lock it and also so that it's not like up in my face and you can see that I paint it on kinda regularly and then up at the top I fender it up and I paint backwards but it will create a nice blend there I won't have like a really harsh sharp line also the ends of my hair I don't want to fold this up and press it into the lightener because this doesn't need to get any lighter so I'm pulling it off to the side and then folding my foil up so that the ends are staying out of that lightener [Music] and you can see how by coming in diagonally the very top by right part is gonna have highlights but they're gonna all kind of just like fall really naturally with the shape of my head [Music] another thing I wanted to talk about while I'm doing this is your developer volume because whenever you do a tutorial like this I always get questions because people notice that I use very low volume developer and I mean today because I'm just doing a few foils and it's a quicker application I'm using 20 which is more on the high end for me actually believe it or not if I'm doing my whole entire head and it's gonna be a longer application I usually will start with 10 volume at like the highest sometimes I'll even do lower than that and I know that in Jesus will they teach you 10 volume that you one level of with 20 volume in there you two levels thirty three levels forty four level so if you want the maximum amount lift you should use 40 volume and you might see my natural hair color I think that's pretty dark you need to get pretty light so why aren't you using 40 volume or 30 volume that is a complete myth and they don't understand the light with me why they teach that in school because it's just not correct at all the lift is all in the lightener that you're using and most Leitner's are about the same they all typically will say that they have seven levels of lift to them the developer that you're using really is just determining the speed in which you're lifting but the thing is if you're using 40 or 30 yeah there's going to be stronger but they're gonna die out way faster and so you're not gonna get as much lift potentially like if you only have ten minutes to process the hair then yeah you're gonna get more lift with a 40 volume than a 10 volume but if you have time when you can let the hair really sit there and fully process I suggest going lower like they say slow and steady wins the race the slower you're gentle you go these better your list is gonna be it's just going to come out a lot more even it's not putting the hair through as much shock so the result is just always gonna be a lot nicer you're gonna create less damage that way Plus whenever you're using foils you never want to use 40 volume because they can start smoking just a little thing to keep in mind you would be surprised how much lift you can get out of like ten 15 20 volume the key is to just do nice thin sections fully saturate the hair so that you ensure that the product is same wet inside the foils because that's the thing those lower volume developers will just keep on going but as soon as they dry out they're gonna stop so as long as you make sure that that product is really nice and saturated so that it's not getting dried out or if it does just open up the foil and reapply a little bit more later I'm just gonna kind of Bend these foils out of the way and clip them back and then these pieces at the bottom on the sides that I left out I'm going to pull back with the rest of my hair just to get it kind of away then I'm gonna let down these hair guide pieces so what I'm gonna do is pull this back I'm just gonna grab a really nice thin piece so I'm kind of like splitting when I originally sectioned out kind of splitting it in half so that way I'm leaving this bit out and that's going to create some depth between our first foil here and then our hairline so that way it's not looking like too light and bright so again leaving out even a little bit more depth so this right here is what I'm going to be highlighting what is it right under there and you'll see again like exciting I don't start immediately all the way at the top I start maybe an inch below and then I feather back so it blends really nicely and I don't have any like weird stripy lines same thing on this side and this piece I'm just going to keep solid as one single piece I'm not going to leave it [Music] so I am going to let all of this process for maybe like 30 to 40 minutes or so I like to just always keep checking on it every 15 minutes and then once it's looking like a nice light yellow color I will wash these out shampoo and then apply olaplex number two this is the second part in the Olin Plex treatment that I put in the lightener and then I will be back so I wash my hair and I put the olaplex number two on and let it sit for about 10 minutes and then I rinsed it out but all up in here is looking pretty brassy it definitely needs to be toned the money piece on the front actually came out beautiful like this piece right here I could just tone with some purple conditioner so I don't even think I'm gonna need my lighter color I'm just gonna do the shadow root just to smudge this area right here and just get rid of any little bit of brass so what I'm gonna use for that is well a color touch this is a demi-permanent color so anytime you're toning hair you want to use demi-permanent color so the color that I am using is six stroke seven one which is dark blonde brown ash so level six is like your dark blonde light brown but because this is w permanent color and we are applying it to whet pre latent hair it's actually going to out a little bit lighter than that it's gonna look more like a level seven actually which is a little bit more of like a medium blonde actually you know what I think they're gonna mix in a little bit of a darker color why not I'm gonna take five stroke one so this is like an ashy medium brown just gonna mix a little bit of that in just to like slightly darken it a bit I'm going to do four grams of the six seven one and then two grams of the five stroke one and then I'm going to use six volume developer from well a color touch as well and with color touch you need to do a one to two mixing ratio so I did six grams of color I'm going to do 12 grams of developer so what I'm applying my shadow root what I like to do is bring it down a little bit lower in the back and then up front I'm just tapping it right at the root and then where my money pieces in the front I'm not putting any of it there at all because I want to keep that all the way up to the top and keep it like nice and bright so just try to get it even on both sides and then I like to take a comb and just lightly comb it down a little bit - blender [Music] and you might be thinking like well what is the point of a shadow root like I thought you wanted to bring the highlights up higher and the whole point was to get rid of your roots the reason I like to do is because like I said this color that we're putting on it's not gonna be extremely opaque you're still gonna be able to see those highlights peeking through it just kind of makes them ever so slightly darker as if there's like just a shadow being cast on them and it just helps everything blend so much nicer into your natural root color so your roots are still gonna be later but they're just not gonna be super crazy bright so now that that's on there I'm just gonna let that process for about five minutes or so then I'm just gonna rinse it out put some conditioner in my hair blow-dry and style it and I will be right back to show you the finished result so here is the finished result of my hair it's not like dramatically anything different I just kind of brought everything up a bit and you can see how you can still see all those little highlights because I brought them all the way up and through here but that root smudge just kind of darkened it a bit and added like a shadow to kind of effect so that everything just blends and it's a really nice gradient and it's crazy how just doing those couple of foils in the front and around my face made the overall look of my hair I think a lot brighter and blonder even though the ends and all like underneath and in the back I didn't do anything - and I think also just like burning up these pieces in the very front makes such a huge difference and for that I didn't even end up needing to use any toner I just put some tawny conditioner this is the purple tawny conditioner from overtone I did a video talking about these products on how to use them viewing them and all that so I will link it down in the description if you're interested but I just applied this all over my hair after I rinsed my root color out and I just left it in there while I like wash my body and all that and you can see when I go to pull my hair back in a ponytail how it's bright around my face now so that's going to be it for this video and hope that you guys have found it helpful if you did and you'd like to see more hair tutorials like this one in the future make sure to give the video a thumbs up and subscribe to my channel and hopefully I'll see you in my next video bye [Music]

Channel: Sam Vay

Views: 68,663

Rating: 4.9240184 out of 5

Keywords: how to touch up highlights at home, how to touch up blonde hair at home, how to touch up balayage at home, how to touch up foilayage at home, blonde highlights, how to root smudge, how to shadow root, how to root tap, hair foiling tutorial, hair highlights tutorial, foilayage tutorial, hair diy, hair color at home, balayage tutorial, how to bleach hair at home, foiled highlights at home

Id: 2Eooq7Q248k

Length: 19min 15sec (1155 seconds)

Published: Mon Jul 06 2020