How I Made A Green Goblin Helmet (Out Of Cardboard)

today i'm going to show you how i turned this into this [Music] hey what's up sean here and today we are making a green goblin helmet in case you've been living under a rock willem dafoe has just reprised his role as green goblin in spider-man no way home which means i could not be more excited to make this helmet this green goblin helmet did not involve any 3d printing or any special equipment it was all made by hand and in this video you'll see all the steps it took to get here if you'd like to make this helmet at home yourself then check the description box below i'll have a list of materials and a free template which you can print out and use to follow along in this video with me here's what the template will look like once you print it out and if you want stick around till the end of the video where i will show you how to print the template properly so that it fits your head first thing i had to do after printing the template was trim the borders off the paper so that i could tape all the edges together like this there is quite a few pieces in this template and they are all split up among these pages which you can connect together like one giant puzzle once i taped all the edges together i roughly cut everything out into smaller more manageable pieces and then i transferred all those template pieces onto cereal box cardboard using a glue stick now i went ahead and cut everything out with a sharp hobby knife if you want you can use scissors to cut these out but i prefer using a sharp knife after i cut all the pieces out i took the time to remove all of the tape because i don't want to have any adhesion problems later on when i apply stuff onto the helmet like paint and whatnot you'll notice that some of the pieces have lines on them which tell you where you need to fold the paper there's two different types of fold lines the dashed lines represent mountain folds while valley folds are represented by dashed and dotted lines wherever you see a dashed line you just score it with a knife and that will result in a nice clean fold wherever you see a dashed and dotted line you want to flip it over and score it on the back of the cardboard because whenever you score cardboard it usually tends to fold better one way than it does the other in some cases it helps if you make a little pencil mark on the back of the cardboard like that and that will make it easier for you to see on the back of the cardboard exactly where you need to score it alright well now we're ready to assemble all the pieces together i'm going to start with the top of the head and i find it easier if you sort of temporarily hold it in place with some tape and then you can super glue the two edges together like this you can use hot glue or super glue for this but i just use super glue because i feel like it dries a little bit faster as you glue all these pieces together they will naturally start to develop like a bit of a curve on their own kind of like you see here and when you start to see that happen that's how you know that you're probably doing it right another way that you can gauge if you're doing this right is that all these edges have numbers labeled on them right here and they should all line up with their corresponding edges so you can always refer to those numbers if it gets confusing as you can see i made a mirrored version of this and the two halves will just simply go together like this now i'm gonna move on to the nose so here's what that looks like and i just kind of tuck all those flaps together like so and that will form one half of the nose then you just take both halves of the nose and squeeze them together tightly like this and that will make up the nose bridge the nose is gonna get glued right there but before attaching on the nose though there's a couple things we have to do take a look at these two pieces right here i'm just gonna pinch and glue these two edges together i give it a moment to dry and then i can glue this edge to the nose right there where 555 and 554 are after that i take 552 and attach that edge to the top of the nose do that on both sides and now we have the eye sockets connected to the nose hey i'm sorry this video took a little longer to make than usual the truth is i've been spending a little too much time playing marvel strikeforce the sponsor of this video jokes aside marvel force is a squad based rpg where you can fight alongside your favorite marvel heroes and villains in a fight to save the earth this game features over 180 characters and there are tons of different costumes to choose from battle your way through different game modes like arena raids and alliance wars and earn character shards resources and equipment to assemble your marvel dream team log in and play through in-game events for new character releases holiday events and mcu themed campaigns my favorite thing about this game is that you can basically play it anytime anywhere and whenever i'm bored and i have like five minutes to spare i just log in and immediately i am taken away by this beautiful artwork by the way the suit design for spider-man in this game is sick what do you think should i make that mask marvel strikeforce is available for free on ios and android download now using my link below and join the fight thank you to marvel strikeforce for sponsoring this video this piece you see here is going to make up the brow line so just glue that in between these two flaps and of course do that on both sides at this point we can connect these two sections together this part was a little harder to glue together because now we're kind of reaching a point where the cardboard is having to bend and flex a lot more and we're putting a lot more stress in the cardboard okay so now let's move on to the ears so to make up one ear you're gonna need these five pieces we start by tucking these three flaps together until it forms a dome shape go ahead and glue that in place and then we can connect these two pieces to each other which sort of slot together like this [Music] now we take this piece and before attaching it together with the other two pieces you need to make this 90 degree edge come together and then that goes over top of the other two pieces right there as you're gluing all these pieces together try to be as neat as possible it doesn't have to be perfect but the neater it is the better because it will pay off in the end and you won't have to do as much cleanup work to fix all those imperfections later on if you feel like i'm going too fast or you're confused in any way i will leave a link in the description below to the pepakura file i used that way you can open up this template in pepakura designer and you'll get to see a 3d model of the helmet and it'll visually show you where each piece belongs in relation to the rest of the helmet i'm pretty sure pevakura designer only works on windows though there might be some workarounds to that but generally speaking it only runs on windows so now at this point you can kind of start to see the helmet take shape and it's looking pretty good so far moving on we are going to create the mouth jaw area so to do that i start by taking the longest piece out of this whole template which is this piece right here and as you might be able to tell this is going to be the chin area so we just slowly but surely build that up like so there's a couple smaller pieces followed by this larger piece which looks like the letter h and that just kind of slots together nicely with the other pieces now we take this skinny piece here which is for the mouth and then we add a piece on top of that which forms the upper lip as you can see there's four little pieces that sort of make up the cheek area this all looks pretty intimidating at first but as you can see if you break it down into small little bite-sized pieces like this it's really not so hard it's just time-consuming these two sections were by far the hardest to glue together because there's just so much stress on the cardboard so there's probably a better order to be gluing these pieces than the order that i'm showing you but it still worked in the end lastly we need to make the back of the head which is very simple and straightforward of course you want to do what i'm showing you on both sides and if you did it correctly this is what it should look like oh and there's one more piece that i forgot about which is this one right here and that gets glued in the lower lip area now we can move on to the hardening stage so i'm going to harden this helmet using bondo fiberglass resin which you can find in the automotive section at any walmart this is like a two-part mixture and the instructions say to add 10 drops of hardener for every 30 milliliters of resin so that's exactly what i'm doing here and once i give it a good mix i apply this stuff all over the outside and inside of the helmet giving the outside one coat and the inside one coat as well as you can see i put a little temporary support in there just to kind of push the sides of the helmet outwards and once the helmet is hardened it will stay in that shape permanently i give the resin some time to dry and then at this point it's time to add some fiberglass cloth on the inside of the helmet this product will always be in the same aisle right next to the fiberglass resin because fiberglass resin and fiberglass cloth are basically meant to be used together so the way you do this is kind of similar to how you would do paper mache so you lay some cloth down and then you saturate it in resin and i like to think of this as like a hardcore version of paper mache because once the fiberglass cloth hardens it makes the helmet super super rigid and durable which is exactly what i want i coated the entire inside with one layer and then i did like three or four more layers around all the weak spots especially around like the edges of the helmet because that's where people are going to be grabbing it by the most and you don't want it to crack now that all of that has had a chance to dry i am now going to use a dremel rotary tool with a cut off wheel and slice off this back plate at the back of the helmet here later on i'm going to make it so that the back plate can stretch open and close that way my head can actually get inside of the helmet for some of the harder to reach areas i had to use a box cutter but everything else was cut with a dremel after i cut out that back plate i sanded the edges down that were cut with a dremel just a little bit so that they weren't so rough and jagged and i also rounded off the corners here a bit because those were pretty sharp and pointy all right so moving on i am now going to use some polymer clay i have never done any clay sculpting in my life before but for the first time i decided to try polymer clay and i used that to sculpt some additional details on the mask the brand of clay i'm using is called super sculpey and although this clay gave me fantastic results i really would not recommend using polymer clay like i did here because uh the one problem with polymer clay is that it does not harden until it is baked which is not a problem in and of itself but for this project specifically you really should not be putting this helmet in the oven for obvious reasons if i were to do this helmet over again what i would probably do instead of using polymer clay and what i recommend you do is use air dry clay which is significantly cheaper but known to be more fragile than polymer clay to prevent cracking though all you would have to do is just coat the air dry clay in resin the same exact stuff we coated the rest of the helmet with and i'm pretty sure that would work well using air dry clay was actually my initial plant because it would have been the cheapest option but i got kind of impatient and just used polymer clay anyway because to be honest i didn't want to wait a gajillion years for the air dry clay to dry so i mean this worked but it's pretty sketchy also there is another reason why you shouldn't use polymer clay for this and why i really regretted using polymer clay uh you'll you'll see why later after the clay was baked some of the thinner more delicate areas were super glued to make sure that they stick to the helmet permanently then i sanded down all the high spots with a low grit sandpaper and see here as you start sanding you can really see all the low spots start to show through and i'm not yet trying to get the surface smooth or anything at this stage i'm only concerned with trying to get rid of all the high spots and level out the surface so that it's one continuous contour after i was happy with that it was now time for bondo body filler so just like the bondo fiberglass resin we used earlier this stuff kind of works similarly in that you add a little bit of hardener to the body filler and that catalyzes it and from there you have like 10 to 15 minutes of working time so if you're going to use this you don't want to mix up too much at once because this stuff starts to harden up pretty quick you want to just make small batches at a time otherwise you'll end up wasting a whole bunch of it this is by far the most tedious part of the whole build it's a very boring process of just filling and sanding and filling and sanding and more filling and more sanding basically this is all being done in order to add a smooth contour on the entire helmet it's not going to be perfect obviously because this is all being done by hand but it'll be way smoother than it was before okay guys quick little update because this is kind of important as someone that's never used clay before i was watching some youtube videos about clay and reading up on some blogs and forums and they all basically say the same thing that apparently you're not supposed to use spray paint on polymer clay because that causes like a negative reaction um i don't know i'm not a chemist i just make crafts but yeah apparently you're not supposed to use spray paint on polymer clay which is a problem because i'm planning on using spray primer and spray paint on this thing obviously so what exactly is so wrong about spray painting polymer clay well i wanted to find out for myself so i did some tests and sure enough i found that if you spray paint polymer clay there's a pretty good chance that the spray paint will never fully dry this piece right here i let it sit for a couple days and it still remained tacky and sticky so unfortunately i ended up just covering every inch of the polymer clay in bondo just so i could spray paint it later on which was really sad because at this point i had already put all that hard work into shaping and smoothing the clay only to have to cover everything in bondo and sand it back down again so moral of the story don't use polymer clay and you'll be fine here is what the helmet was looking like after most of it was smoothed out with bondo as you can see there's still a lot of deep scratches and texture still left on the surface so that's where filler primer comes in in case you aren't familiar with filler primer what filler primer is is it's basically just like a really thick spray that fills in deep scratches and unwanted texture so i do a couple coats of this filler primer another thing that filler primer does really well is it lets you gauge your progress because once you spray this stuff on all your little imperfections are going to be like 10 times more obvious so after one round of filler primer it's a good idea to go back and do at least one more pass of bondo body filler followed by more sanding to get rid of all the high spots in not only the body filler but also the filler primer as well [Music] after that we do another round of filler primer [Music] and then at this point i sand the whole helmet with some fine 400 grit sandpaper one more coat of filler primer and finally before we paint this i'm going to do what's called a wet sand which is when you wet the surface and sand using a very fine grit sandpaper like 1000 grit which is what i'm using right here now i'm not trying to penetrate the filler primer here i don't want to sand through the primer or anything all i'm trying to do is just get rid of the texture that the primer left behind because filler primer sometimes tends to leave a bit of a gritty texture so the wet sand will take care of that for paint i started with a base coat of gold tamiya spray paint and this will make the green pop a little bit more [Music] after that dried i went over everything with a coat of metallic green tamiya spray paint followed by this dupli-color matte clear coat [Music] for the teeth i used some dollar store bristol board also known as poster board in order to make the canines for all the other teeth though i just used binder board here is what all the teeth look like and just like the rest of the helmet i coated these in resin as well after it dried i sanded everything a bit just to rough up the surface which will prepare it for paint i hit all the teeth with filler primer and then wet sand with 1000 grit sandpaper for the silver i'm using the dupli-color perfect match alabaster silver and there are also some black pieces as well and for that i just used rust-oleum gloss black and then everything got coated with the same matte clear coat that i used on the rest of the helmet and here we are now i can assemble all the teeth together like this and we can go ahead and glue that onto the helmet before doing that though i just scratched off the finish a bit here to make sure the glue adheres properly [Music] for the black part of the mouth i used fiberglass screen and this mesh was kind of a little bit too see-through so all i did was just fold that in half and that seemed to work pretty well i just cut it down to the proper size and then just hot glued it behind the mouth for the eyes i used a cheap pair of these gold polarized sunglasses and just popped the lenses out of the frames now unfortunately the lenses are too small to fit the whole eye socket as you can see there's quite a gap there so nonetheless i glued those lenses in just to see what they would look like and you know from some angles and in some lighting it looks pretty decent but once you get up close you can see it looks really weird so i just got rid of that and instead i lifted the lenses up um based on how it looks in the rooftop scene in sam raimi's spider-man where his lenses can open and close and after that i added some scrap floor mat eva foam on the inside of the helmet using hot glue lastly i added some fabric elastic in order to attach the back plate to the helmet and make it be able to stretch open and close this isn't really the best method because when you constantly stretch open and close the helmet that will inevitably damage the paint a little bit so if you care about that then i don't really recommend doing it this way [Music] [Music] i think the helmet turned out pretty decent all things considered i mean it doesn't really look like the real thing obviously but you know it's still pretty cool i think it's a cool little display piece and it was fun to make although the helmet looks pretty big on me it's actually kind of a tight fit on the head as you can see there's like barely any room at the back of the helmet and the back plate is like kind of bulging out pretty far so in other words the helmet looks too big on my head but somehow at the same time there's not enough room on the inside if i wanted to fix these two issues what i could have done is print the helmet at a smaller scale and then make a new back plate for the back of my head because the back plate on my helmet is actually not really correct like on the real helmet there's more of like a bulge it kind of protrudes out more now if you would like to play around with the sizing of the helmet and like get a custom fit for your head then here's how you would do it so what you need to do is download adobe acrobat reader this is free to download and it takes like five minutes so just go ahead and install that after you've installed adobe acrobat reader you need to download the template so open it up right here and click this little icon where it says download here's the template so just right click on it then go to open with adobe acrobat reader dc then click this little printer icon hit poster and right here where it says tile scale that is where you're going to adjust the size of the template so just for reference i printed the template at a hundred percent and the width of my head from here to here measures about 160 millimeters so that's your reference point so for example if the width of your head measures 180 millimeters you would take 180 divide that by 160 and multiply that by 100 and that will give you around 112 so if your head size is 180 millimeters wide and you print the template at 112 in theory the helmet should fit you exactly how it fits my head which again is a little oversized the helmet is a little too big like i mentioned before if you want the helmet to be proportionate to your body then i would recommend scaling the helmet down and then making a new back plate for the back of your head or just get rid of the back plate entirely once you have inputted the tile scale so let's just put 112 go to page setup and right here you can select whatever paper size you're using for me it's us letter but for some people it might be a4 hit ok and then you can print it out if you enjoyed this video then you'll probably like my previous video as well which was a venom mask with a moving mouth so click or tap the screen to check out that video thank you very much to my patrons for supporting me on patreon and thank you for watching you

Channel: Sean’s Crafts

Views: 4,923,959

Keywords: spider-man no way home, green goblin, green goblin helmet, green goblin spider man no way home leaked, spider-man no way home leaked, green goblin mask, how to make green goblin helmet, how to make green goblin pumpkin bombs, green goblin vs spiderman, green goblin no way home fight, spider-man no way home breakdown, spider-man, no way home, andrew garfield spider-man no way home, tobey maguire spider-man no way home, tom hollland

Id: 4yU0bRiL3vQ

Length: 21min 38sec (1298 seconds)

Published: Fri Dec 17 2021