JON KOSMOSKI HOUSE OF KOLOR CYCLE FLAME PAINTING

[Music] here's our subject tank as you can see the bike had fallen over and put a massive dent on the side of the tank it had previously been candy painted and had a flame paint job on it our goal is to redo this job and do it right so we begin by taking the paint off we're using an aircraft stripper methylene chloride type so you do want to wear protective gear when you're working with this material we're putting it into a can so it can be handled shake it well before use and then brush in one direction because strippers have paraffin the paraffin comes to the top so that the stripper doesn't dry out and allows it to force itself down and penetrate into the paint this tank had a urethane paint job on it and so it does require an aircraft quality stripper we put it on as thick as we can get it to stick in order to get a good amount of bite going on the paint as you can see it doesn't take very long for that paint remover to start going to work and now we will also come in with a stripper you should wear gloves and it's a very good idea to have eye protection on because you certainly don't want to splash any of this material on you if you get any of the paint remover on your skin rinse it off with water immediately now we're using a metal scraper here if you're dealing with plastics or other parts you may not want to use this harsher remover and you certainly don't want to use something metal use a plastic scraper or a rubber scraper we've now got the tank completely stripped and it's time to deal with that dent here we've got one of those stud welding guns it's 110 volt machine that actually welds a stud on so we don't have to punch holes in the side of the tank the way they used to be done by drilling a hole and pulling it out with a screw this welds a stud in that we can hook i pulling the tool tool on and literally pop those dents back out now you don't want to pull them out too far because metal stretches when it's dented so we want to feel with our hands and try and get as close to weaken to the surface once we're satisfied we take a side cutter and cut the studs off and then take our grinder with at one for grit disc and rough that metal up so that we can get our filler our plastic filler mixed and on to this area so we roughed the entire area knock down any of the protrusions from the studs clean it up as good as we can this tank has been fairly well detailed we put it in our our bead blasting cabinet we found some other dents and rough spots on the top of the of the tank and so now we're mixing our filler you've put out an up an amount of filler that you feel you're going to need don't mix too much need your hardener to make sure that it's well mixed and then put on the appropriate amount and then carefully mix the hardener in you can tell by the color of it when the material is thoroughly mixed and squeegee it out hard so that you're not putting any air bubbles in the filler as you're mixing just make sure it's well thoroughly mixed now we add it carefully to the side of the tank remember whichever direction you're pulling from is the direction of the putty goes the the plastic filler so pull back once in a while at different directions to get it centered over the damaged area now we've put it in the areas that we need it so our next step is when the plastic filler gets to a half hard stage we go and get our half round shredder and we use a random pattern when we shred just like we do when we sand as you'll see we try to get this because this is a form of blocking now we're going a different direction so that we don't set up a pattern of sanding that will show we get it down to a certain point then we go to our da sander with some 40 grit and we again rough up the material and try to get it knocked down as best we can to get it close to where we want you can actually do blocking with this but my goal is to go around the outside edges of the filler and kind of taper it in as best I can but still wanting it to be slightly high check it with your hand periodically to make sure that you've got it close now we won't get it perfect until we go to our final block sanding so we take the same grit a 40 grit now you can go down as fine as eighty I don't recommend going any finer and again we block back and forth but again using the random pattern of Xing back and forth over the damaged area and feeling it until we're completely satisfied that we can't tell where the metal ends and the plastic filler begins once we're satisfied with that it's time to tape off the tank carefully blow it down carefully make sure you you cover these areas that you don't want any paint to go into now on a gas tank you should never have paint where the cap seals to the tank that should always be bare metal the reason for that is you get a good tight seal by doing that and you'll never have any paint blistering providing of course you're using a good 2-pack primer now we metal etch and are careful not to metal edge where the plastic filler work has been done we're using the cosmic color year it's not a urethane enamel it's an epoxy and it's called KP two it's our fast curing version of ep2 it's mixed one-to-one at 70% solids and it fills we'll put three coats of this primer on the tank which will give us a dried film of approximately three mils we don't need more than that now in the bodywork areas if you want to add extra primer you can certainly do that if you've got a tremendous amount of sanding to do now again paying close attention not to get too heavy overlaps when we're painting a good time to practice your painting is when you're applying your primer and your sealer so that we don't get too much paint and given areas causing runs now we're guide coating by using a dark lacquer primer to just dust over this primer after it dried we let it dry for 24 hours and now we're folding a piece of 400 grit sandpaper wet sandpaper and we're going to fold it properly the three fold method tearing a paper in half the three fold method soak it in the water for 10 to 15 minutes prior to use it makes the paper a lot more supple and easier to use then by flooding the tank with water and starting our wet sanding you can also block certain area but generally speaking on a motorcycle tank the guide code tells you when it's ready so we start our sanding by just using firm pressure back and forth and study the guide coat don'ts and more than you need to to a totally eliminate your guide coat which is the dark grave colored primer now as you see when we move the camera in close here that we have not gotten the scratches out of our bodywork you can still see some of the 40 grit scratches so that's the purpose of the guide coat it tells us when to stop sanding so we get back on it again and again use random sanding patterns now if we should run into a problem that is very deep that we've missed and we may need putty it's an important time for us to get a catalyzed putty do not use lacquer putties in custom painting because they can bleed through and cause discolorations one of the advantages of the EP 2 and kp2 primer is it eliminates any chances now you can see a little speck here it looks like we might have to putty this it's a deep cut but let's try a couple more swipes and see if we can get it without going to the putty use the catalyzed stain free putty wherever putty is needed and this is after the priming stages now we were able to get it out alright we again just keep sanding until the tank is complete again we're saying one of the advantages of the catalyzed ep2 and kp2 primer is it prevents the bleed through of plastic filler that's really a critical item because most painters fail doing custom work by trying to use lacquer type primers they don't stick to the metal that's when you get the blistering around the gas cap from the fuels because it can soften the lacquers now when a tack rag is purchased and taken out of the bag most painters use it the way it comes out of the bag that's not the way it's used you should open the tack rag up completely as far as it can be opened and let it stand for 15 or 20 minutes prior to use and then put it into a loose-ball for doing your tacking here we go right to work with it because you know we just want to show you how to get the thing open they are a little complicated sometimes and it does take a while the other advantage to this is they can also be used as an excellent diaper for the cup as you'll see later in the video all right we go to our loose ball and we carefully air and tack the tank to make sure that we've gotten all the lint from our rags that we use for wiping the tank down it's completely sanded it's perfect it's ready to go so the next step is to mix our seal coat the reason for the seal coat is number one it'll make the tank near the color of our base coat and our chosen base coat is Orion silver a very bright silver now we make this sealer in a red oxide and we make it in a dark gray for other chosen bases use the sealer that's best suited for your choice of base in order to get the fast easy coverage now the sealer will improve adhesion the sealer goes on and we wait about one hour before we begin our metallic silver Orion base coat which is a very glamorous silver all right the sealer has dried an hour we're using an older tack rag for our diaper on the cup so in the event of a gun drip coming out the vent hole it can totally ruin the job so we put this on to protect ourselves there's no isocyanates used in any of our shimmerin or any of our base coats the isocyanates or the hardeners are used only when we go to our top coat clears or our candies any code beginning with you requires a catalyst now here we go with our silver notice the sparkle of this bright silver going on generally takes about three coats of the silver base to maintain full coverage and again we watch our overlap of coats so that we don't get any heaviness we use a lot of care and time to get it on evenly and allow flash time between coats this is very critical to painting and we do like to do our painting and nothing cooler than 70 degrees each coat should flash dull before the next coat is applied and that gives you a fast tape out then when we're all done and we've got full coverage we put a couple coats of SG 100 clear over the top and this allows us after an hour or twos time to give it a light scuff and that gives us our adhesion characteristics so that we can begin our our tape outs the reason for doing this is in the event of a missed tape we can correct it because a base coat can never be sanded directly unless it's a solid color base coat like an SG or our BC 25 or BC 26 because they're solid colors white and black base coats and the other solid colors with no metallics or pearl they can be sanded but here with the metallics or the pearl top coats if you sand a pearl directly you will put scratches in the platelets and literally ruin them they have to go back to base coat you have to begin again so we don't want to do that now we use care not to touch the the painted area or the area that's going to be painted with our bare hands it's important that you try to use care to avoid it now in some areas you're going to touch it but it's the laying on of hands and leaning on it that causes the transfer of oil from our skin that can sometimes affect reco --ts now working with the tape we generally prefer to work with 1/8 inch 3m tape and it's the crepe tape the old-style crepe tape is still my favorite you'd they do make it in plastic varieties and many prefer this but with the shimmerin bases it's really not required the crepe tape works fine you don't get the creep back that you do with the lacquers because there isn't as much solvency in the shimmerin base coats even though they behave very much like lacquer now you'll notice that I swing the Roll and follow the swinging of the roll with my thumb to get a perfect sealing as I go and I'm looking for a widening of the flame as I progress towards the front of the tank now watch the thumb and the roll working in sequence so that you get a nice comfortable swing to get a nice even curve now I like to do my designing right on the tank many people say that you should use crayons or you should use chalks and chalk the design out my feeling has always been lay the design out on the tape and change it if you're not happy when you see what you see now we picture painting between our tape outs now if you're starting to notice like I am this design is getting rather tight and I'm not liking the looks of it that well I'm gonna try to complete it but it looks to me like it's very loose and open at the top of the tank and it's getting very tight and it's just not in good sequence we don't have a nice feel for it and that's what the point is of laying the object out is to do a design take a look at it and if you don't like it you change it now I certainly don't like that it's way too cramped at the bottom loose at the top we're gonna have to pull the tape off and start over no big deal takes a couple of minutes so let's remove some of this tape it's way way tight in this area and it doesn't have the look that we're looking for and that's where practice comes in by working with the roll of tape in order to get the curves and the turns to work right for you you're gonna do some practicing and that's what's required now put your fingernail on there and you can snip that right off and again now let's start and see if we can't broaden this a little bit and get a better look again swing the Roll and do your ceiling with the thumb you can pull it and reseal it pull it and reseal it it'll take that many times before it gives up but it does occasionally give up and you'll have to just tear off a piece of tape because it loses some of its adhesion the adhesive values alright now we've got something that's looking a little bit better it's still somewhat tight but I think it's livable all right again watching the line grow as we pull the tape back as you can see this design just stems from the front of it doesn't begin from the front of the tank it's sort of a paneled out flame design it stays in a given area and that's fine as there's many many different ways to lay flames out and there's and the art is in the eye of the bee older you the artists have to determine what's workable and of course given some direction from the customer if you're doing the job for someone let's try a totally different design on this side of the tank where the flame begins from the front of the tank so again it's getting the curves to work right for you and putting the flow to the flame so that they hook and curve I always like to work against one another and I'll show you what I mean by that all right get our curves swing the Roll and and have the thumb seal as you go to get the nice smooth look and try to counter like if one flame angles one way when you come by again on the other side have it angle the other direction and again let the space grow as you move towards the front of the tank just kind of keep your eye on that area as you're doing it going into a turn angle the other way it's hard to see what's happening up on the top here but we'll start going down onto the side very soon all right another curve turning around if you want to duplicate the design from side to side that's one of the next things we're going to show you how to do let's complete our design here easy does it don't put a lot of tension on that roll try to get the tape to kind of lay in place without tremendous tension on it because it'll let go when you start painting if it's laid in with tension now after we make the curve we go up towards the other flame angle down and then back up again so that we've got a hook so that the opposites are sort of pushed against one another all right again going down watching the line grow go into our curve tension on the outside of the roll to get the tape to curve you have to turn the roll so that the tensions on the side that you want to turn there we go back up and turn down to get a little hook in the flame all right begin again head towards the front of the tank watch that line grow and right after we go past our first roll we turn up go into another loop now in this design the whole front of the tank will be painted and will be painting everything between the tape so will be masking all the outside areas alright one more time now this will run right off the tank now again we start looking at this design just like we did on the other side the idea is to look at the designs and see what they take now I don't like that it's looking again very much like the center flame is much too large it's it's kind of dominating the side of the tank and doesn't look that good the upper part of the tank is livable but it may not be what we're gonna go with that's the fun part of using the tape because we can pull the tape off and redo it if you've chalked it you literally put marks in it or other methods of drawing it on are not easily removed well let's pull some of this off because we need it more aesthetically pleasing very simple to correct now put our fingernail here again and cut this we like that upper roll it's just we need to tighten it up so let's get rid of the rest of the tape and let's begin again now practice is important for getting the tape to make those turns most people that try to do flame layouts have the biggest problem making the curves but remember what I said you have to tension the outside area of the tape that you're making the turn on and that's done by angling the roll okay let's connect it again and here we go now we're going to tighten this up we're going up closer to that other roll and making our flip towards the other side there we go there's a couple of kinks in here we're doing this for demonstration purposes but the point is practice is very important for working with this now again tensioning the outside of the roll make our tight turn now this is looking better already because it's much smaller and it's more concentric it fits the space a lot better there we go turn down so you're kind of engineering as you go you're looking at it you have something in mind and then you start and you change it if you don't like what you see another hooker come around to our turn go back up towards the swell and then down now down and then put another hook at the end like you can pull and retake again we try to avoid a lot of hand contact now and angle up there we go now that's a little bit more pleasing to me some of the roundness and some of the angles look a little choppy but those are easily corrected alright now we just run this right off the tank alright now that's aesthetically fairly pleasing and I think it could be fun to continue with this design but we're not going to do that now let's talk about what it takes to duplicate this design there's the rough layout and the paint will be in the front and continue you know different colors will you will show that further on in the tape how to do the painting alright here's our design that's that didn't start from the front of the tank that is sort of a self-contained flowing flame design very easily to layout all right now we go to the artist supply store and we get some charcoal artist charcoal and a number 12 pounce wheel it's a wheel with little teeth in it very much like a spur on a cowboy boot and what it does is punch his small holes so we take our charcoal go to our taping machine and we'll pull off a piece of 18-inch masking paper and we'll lay that out in a pre described area on the tank so that we can duplicate it on the other side of the tank once we've made our template all right we get our charcoal our artist charcoal now you must do this before you mask out once you're pleased with your design and you want to duplicate on the other side now we take our charcoal and use it very much like a tracing paper almost because it starts to show the designs from the bumps of the tape that's on the existing side of the tank now the front of front part is a little difficult because it doesn't want to conform exactly and we may have to use a tape measure to determine our accuracy on that front area but do what you've done on this side duplicate on the other when you're the way you're holding the paper so we carefully get our design transferred on the charcoal so that we can come very close now we lay it out on a piece of cardboard so that the pounce wheel which cuts a bunch of little holes by pressing on it has something soft underneath to go into so that we can make small perforations now generally I do the perforations on the inside of the tape out so looking at the tape layout designs I go inside and make my small perforations firm pressure is required to make sure I'm making good perforations in the template and it's just punching small little holes be careful not to tear the paper and slip take your time because this is going to determine the accuracy of the flame that you transfer to the other side of the tank again I am using very firm pressure I want to go down into that cardboard I want to know that I have cut a good hole in the template they do make pounce wheels in smaller sizes but I have found the number 12 to be one of the the right sizes that work for this type of work all right now we flip the template upside down and tape it on the tank on a prescribed fashion at an exact distance that we marked it from the other side of the tank once that's done then we get our pounce pad which is nothing more than a square box pad that has carpenters chalk in it so now by lightly patting our whole sections that we've cut we run through this template lightly patting our design and again moving the design the part of the that's right move it forward around the tank in the tough area and get it in there so that we've hit every part of it then by removing this we have our layout it shows the dotted lines from that carpenters chalk and all we simply have to do is check dimensions on the other side of the tank with tape measures to make sure that everything is fairly close in that area from the front of the tank from the bracket and then just simply start following the dotted line and do the flame layout which will duplicate what we've got on the other side of the tank the chalk is easily removed with a damp rag once the design is fully laid out and it doesn't hurt to check where the tips come out how far from the bottom using a small pocket measuring device again get your curves right watch your distances it doesn't hurt to look from side to side to make sure that the distance is what I'm speaking of is the width of the flame itself at given areas are matching the width on the other side so a little bit of eyeball from side to side helps make the template idea work well for you it's so easy to do this and to duplicate and match things so perfectly from side to side many painters say well you can't see both sides of the tank at once but they're always pleased when things come out very very close make our tight turn pay close attention that the tape is well sealed alternating and then again look from side to side to make sure that that things are being somewhat concentric all right here we go we've just pulling the last line now and we'll compare to see just how close we are from one side to the other working with this eighth inch crepe tape is is nice because it turns so easily some of the new plastic tapes work well but I'm not sure they turn as well as the crepe tape and the problem that people find with the crepe tape is the creeping of color that doesn't happen as readily with the Sherman basses all right here's the one side now let's just take an eyeball of that and see how close we are when we turn to the other side they certainly look very very close if you want to make minor changes you certainly can now I'm not liking that design we elaborated a little bit we took that basic design and changed it and did some elaboration we went to a scallop up on the top the straight lines are kind of a scalloped flame up on the top and then went into the flaming down on the bottom so now it's simply a matter of masking out remember we're painting the center of everything that we've done from the front of the tank back so now we take our 3/4 inch tape and we start our tape out remember how we talked about putting tension on a certain end of the roll in order to get the tape to properly turn for us and that's the same with the 3/4 inch only it's more prevalent and for cutting the tape as well put tension on the side of the tape that we want to tear so we lay it down put our thumb on one side tension that side I use a fingernail basically and we try to put the tape on very much like a roofer lays the roofing on a house they start at the bottom side and you constantly lay the tape over that by doing that and layering the tape one on top of the other starting from this point from the front working towards the back when you go to remove that tape you simply grab hold of it in the front and it pulls the entire amount of tape that you've put on off so that's engineering for speed try to use as little tape contact as possible our goal is to get a 50% overlap on the eighth inch tape that is the 3/4 inch edge of 3/4 inch should lay right in the middle of the quarter inch or I mean the eighth inch tape all right again making our sweeping turns by putting tension on the outside edge of that tape you can make the tape go around those turns real easy and then make sure everything is well sealed missed tapes will happen anyway but if you take special time to tighten down all those little openings we're sure that no overspray is going to go through now when you've got reverse curves cut the tape and break it because otherwise you're going to have openings on the edge which are going to allow overspray see we're break there because we can't turn down on the tail of that frame flame all right here we go up over the top now we've got a pretty broad area here at the gas cap let's bring in a piece of 3-inch off the masking machine and fit that into there so that we don't have to use a lot of tape paper is obviously cheaper than tape and it can be folded in to make the fit make sure it's well masked and laid down good so that we don't get overspray going underneath any of these areas make sure it's well sealed to eliminate that overspray tape down any loose edges make sure they're they're taped down thoroughly alright let's continue again we have two piece here because we can't get that reverse curve if you've got the curve going the other way it opens the edge of the tape up and and will promote overspray from getting inside there alright again we can use paper wherever we can now here we're going to quarter-inch tape in order to fill in some of the gaps that we can't get in there with the 3/4 so you'll need a roll of eighth inch or two and you're going to need some quarter-inch and some 3/4 inch tape and a taping machine or mascar is very good because you need to hang paper in the areas that you don't want to use a lot of tape in here the tank is completely taped and we're ready we've mixed up some magic blue pearl and we're going to use that as a shadow for a continuation of this flame design this is only the first tape out now this is not required obviously this tank could be used the way it is by simply pulling tape and clearing it with a silver tank with the blue shimmerin pearl on it would be fine but I like things more colorful as you'll see as we progress so we just put on a light coat again allowing flash times between coats is extremely important and don't try painting in cool temperatures you basically need a minimum of 65 degrees and I highly recommend 70 for doing your painting the temperatures and air movement are what's required to remove the solvents from the paint catch your bracket tree up in the front inside and out to make sure that everything is well covered now we can begin to see if our tape out was properly done starting at the front you should be able to pull the whole tape off that's the way it should work it saves time you're not picking at each individual little piece of tape to remove the tape now here's one that we purposely didn't do exactly right see what happens we didn't layer over now we've got to go back in with our fingernail it's not that it's the end of the world but it doesn't take any more work to do it so that it pulls in one fell swoop and that really transfers to saving time when you get into doing custom work like this everybody under assumed it's going to take tremendous amounts of time it does take some time but you have to engineer yourself to make that time reduced that you can get the job done quickly you don't need to make more work out of it now we pull our eighth inch tape by pulling forward and away from the design so that we get a cutting action so that it doesn't tend to try to pull any of our design paint off and speed can be done one thing about the shimmerin base you'll be impressed with is it doesn't cling like the lacquers do and you don't have edges to clean off with your pocketknife it pulls away absolutely clean the edges are extremely low because three coats of shimmerin are generally about a half a mil so on this job right now we've probably got three-quarters of a millipede thats all we're going to do our build up with the clear now thank heavens we put the SG 100 inter coat clear on this metallic if we had to sand the metallic directly we'd ruin the job so here with our SG 100 in it we can take a piece of 600 grit paper water paper lightly dampen it and we can come in and deal with the mist tapes where we've made our little errors in taping a couple of swipes and they're gone carefully look the work over and some even like to knock some of the edges down from the tape outs do that carefully if you decide to knock the edges the edges are minor at this point so we go along remove all of our missed tapes and then wipe the tank down and we're ready for our candy color this tape design that we've done is as I said earlier is going to be a shadow now there's another little spot we almost missed carefully look it over you don't get a second chance when you've gone to the clear coats or the candy coats you have to live with these imperfections now this tank would look good just by itself if we simply wanted to clear coat it and complete this job this could be the end I would have naturally added more color to the flames to highlight them and and make them jump a little bit more but it still would not be an unattractive tank here's the color we're using candy wild cherry UK three it's two parts of candy - one part of catalyst to one part reducer and to that mixture we like to add and extra three ounces based on a quart mixture now here we're taping some tape on the tank to show you that you have to carefully follow your pattern overlaps now on the base coats we used a 50% pattern overlap that means that the first pass was overlapped 50% by the second now when we go to the candy coats we tighten the overlap up some I like to go to 75% now you can see the shape of this tank it's very bulbous in the front and it narrows to the back we have to draw straight lines through the object so that we don't get a convergence of passes if we do that the candy color is going to get extremely dark at the back of the tank and it's very possible that we could run the paint we don't want that to happen so as you can see here with the basic layout of how we're going to make our passes we're going to do the bottom of the tank first first pass second pass and be very careful on those overlaps so that we don't put a run someplace or darken the candy color the first pass on the top the top of the tank also is wide in the front and narrows towards the rear and that must also be considered when you're doing your painting here we go we're using a 75% overlap we're taking tight passes we're hardly pulling the trigger of the gun we're spraying with a production equipment with 60 psi pressure and that's also the same pressure that's used on the base coat when we go to the small touch-up gun we dropped the pressure down to 35 pounds you don't need the high pressure on the smaller guns now bring the color on slow and the first coat should be allowed to tacky up about five or six minutes before you put the next coat on what we look for when we go to the catalyzed side is it should be sticky to the touch and not string up on your finger before the next coat is applied if you put it on when it's stringing that should tell you that the paint is still flowing and it's possible to run the material if you're not careful so allow those dry times our flash times between coats this is a very fast system and even on motorcycles we're probably not looking at more than five - eight minutes between coats now we're putting on a wetter coat this is our second coat and generally speaking we'll put on over a silver base five to six coats now when we start putting the full wet coats on we go to a 50% pattern overlap and move through the tank much faster than we do on beginning coats most painters ruined the candy job in the first three coats by by going too wet and too large a jump between passes so by restricting the trigger and putting on less the gun we're using here in this case is a Pink's number seven but the new HVLP equipment work as well for this and many other guns perform the job excellent it's a matter of personal preference now you'll notice a little lint in the job don't worry about that which is always going to be a little bit of trash that gets in even when you were a painter suit now the next day has arrived and we've gone ahead and sanded the gas tank down smooth and REE taped our new design and have mixed up a bunch of shimmering graphic colors s G's on our cosmic there on our custom color card there a shimmering base as well but they're a solid color now pearls could equally be used in this with no problem any of the shimmering base coats will work fine we put down a BC 26 white base coat we put down two coats of that in order to get the s G colors to really jump we're putting on a lavender base here it appears blue on the video and then we'll also go to a lighter blue now this is being done with a Pink's 15 which is a small touch-up gun dávila bus makes one called an EGA and sharp as well has an excellent touch-up gun and SATA just came out with a new one a gravity-feed a little mini jet and that's a beautiful gun as well they run anywheres from a hundred to a hundred and seventy-five dollars again we're working at 35 psi at the gun and if you notice the the hose to this gun is the lightweight hose that's that's of optional equipment for the gun I highly recommend it because it gives you freedom of movement rather than using a large 5/16 hose when we're working with production guns we always want to use the 5/16 hose to make sure that the guns are properly fed they get enough air to operate now I'm just randomly picking areas I started with the lavender I'm coming in with the light blue on either sides of it there is no set way of doing the colorations you had just start doing it if you don't like it you can change it it's this is the fun part the creative part of just throwing the color in and I'm gonna mixed 5 or 6 colors I've mixed the two shades of blue I mixed a red I mixed a magenta base color all in the SGS here comes the magenta we're throwing that in next to the blue because it'll have excellent impact next to the blue and I don't always try to get full coverage I'll let some of the white show through you don't have to be that careful just randomly throw the colors around where you think you want to do them try to do both sides the same I look for some continuity there what I do on one side I go and do on the other side so that that both sides look somewhat alike we've gone to the work of trying to duplicate the art let's try to duplicate it as well in our painting I've thinned the shimmerin base materials out there thinned 50% in other words two parts of the shimmerin base color - one part of reducer and you can use a little bit of extra reducer at this point but we're not putting it on we've restricted the trigger pull we're just hardly putting it on and we've got the fan of the gun narrowed way down so that we're just working in small areas on these flames I put a thinner Cup there so I could change color as well now we're going to the red and adding our secondary color you can leave white show between these colors as well there's no set methods in fact that can be kind of fun to not do things exactly perfect on a flame it's not expected try to watch spillage of color though so you don't spill into your blue so I do restrict the foot pattern down for that reason very simple really and it's lots of fun this is the creative part now we've got three colors on there at this point we've got our lavender our light blue now I had to go back to the magenta because I had forgotten a spot back on one of the flames then go back to the red touch that up and then we'll put some yellow some light yellow to the rear now you can go either way with this some people like the yellow at the front and go to the blue at the rear in other words the heated colors at the front the warm colors going to the cooler colors at the back here I just did something totally different I put the blue at the center which would be the hottest part of the flame and I'm branching out with some of the warmer family colors now we'll come in with some yellow here soon and fade yellow back to the to the outside the backside of the flames and then we'll bring some orange in and temper that mixture and we'll probably highlight some other areas in the flames as well because we don't want to have it there we've got our yellow in now we'll bring in some orange and fade back with a little bit of orange and we'll probably touch some orange on to the blue or some yellow on to the blue to highlight some parts of the flames and that'll pick up a little greenish cast that's the fun thing about blending colors together you can come up with extra colors many times by doing the blending so it's very simple really in this in this point this is the fun part because you've gone through all the work of masking everything and getting it right putting the paint on goes real quickly this is not taking more than 10 minutes to do all of it now let's highlight a little bit on these rounded areas in the front check everything over to make sure that you've got the right colors in the areas that you want and now we tone the gun way down and kind of highlight the front rolls of these flames now you can see I missed one at the back it'll magically appear done here in a minute but you try to do everything with some continuity so that there's some sameness going on through the tank that's all there is to it now you can see I did get to the rear one at this point now again if we've done our taping properly we can grab in the front and we should be able to pull all of this tape off and we try to leave our outline tape for last and remove that at the last moment now if this is taped right this should come completely off pull all the way through doesn't take any more time to tape up like that but boy does it save time now huh that comes off very easy again grabbing the front you need fingernails for this so if you bite your fingernails you got to quit here we go comes off very simply now there are some tape marks now you can see our shadows slightly and it'll show better now again removing the eighth inch tape pulling forward and away from the design to get that nice cut so that it doesn't tend to try to pull anything off any paint off we get all the outline tape off and then again we have to clean the tank up and we should be ready there you can see our shadow from our first flame layout now obviously shadowing a flame is not required it's something you do for an extra gives it a 3d or three-dimensional effect makes the flames look as if they're jumping off the tank it's a bit of extra work now we take our scotch brite and we wet it with clean water no soap in the water just clean water fold it in half immerse it in the water and we'll go over the design now carefully you don't want to rub hard where we've done our painting because we didn't put any clear over it now you could use SG 100 clear over the artwork so that nothing would get rubbed off at this point and it's a very good idea you're protecting yourself along the way we're taking it easy here we're looking the tank over carefully looking for miss tapes because that can happen as well we want to eliminate all of that just wipe the tank down with a very critical eye because we're going to clear coats next and when that happens anything that's buried under there that we haven't seen or gotten off and and inspect the bottom of the tank as well because many time overspray can get through and get at the bottom of the tank you want to make sure it's right so we don't have to back up this keeps us going forward now we've got our wipe down again we're gonna we're gonna air it and tack it we have to get any water that might be on the tank from our scuff pad use completely off of there so an air and tack rag or an errand ragging first with sixty psi pressure would be fine and then tape up the openings of the tank as well so that no paint goes inside the tank it's a good time to change the tape at the top of the tank as well okay we're back in our suit we've mixed our clear to 1:1 ratio two parts of paint one part catalyst and one part clear and we use a 50% pattern overlap here and the first coat is put on light because you don't ever put a wet coat on a dry surface when you're painting because that's when it runs the first coat is allowed to set up for five to eight minutes depending on what it takes but it must be sticky remember when you're working with catalyzed products you can't go to lunch and come back and recode them because they can lift themselves if they've lost their stickiness you must wait overnight to recode them we don't want it to string so what we're looking for between coats now we've got two wet coats on here and there's some dirt nibs you can see in the tank don't be concerned about them they're lint and they will come out before we're completed all right looking pretty good but we're gonna do better we're gonna pinstripe the flames here's our array of striping paints we make 24 colors and they can be cleared over with anything so now we're going to sand the tank again the next day after a 12 hour dry time and knock down the highlights that we've got from our tape outs so in other words you cannot feel this art it's completely flowed in with clear there's no edges or a thing here's our basic design but now we're using a double olmac striping brush and we're using the cosmic lavender color for our chosen color for the outline of the flame now you pallet that out on a pallet put a couple of brush loads out there and work it into the brush well and then check the brush carefully to make sure that it's laying down a nice stripe and the art depend striping is basically pressure on the brush and twisting the brush the pressure on the brush is what varies the line from light to heavy and then twisting the brush is important when you're making a turn that's why a round handle is so important because when you make a turn you have to very subtly twist the brush as you go around if you don't twist the brush going around the corner the light the line gets extremely broad and the reason for the long bristles on the brush is that it allows some of your body shake to be absorbed in the brush so you don't have to be that steady you have to have a good eye to follow the line that we've laid out on the flames that's all and it does require practice just like pulling the tape and laying out the flames it takes some practice our striping paints are liked because number one they can be thinned and used in an airbrush and number two they can be cleared with any clear you can put a urethane clear over them and you can also put a lacquer clear over them and they cover in one coat as you'll see now we begin we lay our we use our finger as a guide to what depth we have to put pressure on the brush to get the width we want we're looking for a striping line about an eighth of an inch wide now as the brush gets stiff you have to keep adding reducer there's no catalyst used in the striping material unless you're not going to topcoat the clear then we make a special catalyst for the striping paint called k200 again watch the twisting of the brush certain areas you have to angle the tank up to get good position on it and get the brush to twist to make those curves if you start studying other pinstripers that do their work you'll notice that very few have super even lines that they do very and with slightly the brush should be loose and have this this flop to it then you know that the paint is well thin if it gets stiff and the brush doesn't flop like that it will not flow the paint properly so make sure you keep going back and adding paint between the lines and then also add reducer the u00 reducer is the recommended reducer for paletine and of course you'll have to occasionally add more paint now make your twist and your turn here it got a little wide because I didn't twist quite fast enough and it does take practice this is a nice line here now you can come at from different angles too I tried to do what's comfortable for me here the line got a little fat and as I said we can just add that by just touching it up you want to make sure you don't see color between your flame and your line that you're pulling pull that line down all right we do this to the whole tank and once it's completely striped the weight before clear coating with urethane is not long I've clear coated tanks within an hour with lacquer I recommend at least a two-hour wait or longer before you do your clear coating of the striping all right now here we go we're pulling some of the last lines it's very easy to connect up and pay attention to what you've done the lines can grow a little bit and get broader if they have to the other thing about this striping paint is that it's a lower solid striping paint compared to compared to others it doesn't have the thick line that you generally see with some of the other striping paints so it's very easy to smooth out when cleared over be careful not to get your fingers in the wet stripes that you've already done if you're right-handed you'll start at one side and work to the other if you're left-handed you'll do the reverse and as you can see I'm a southpaw left-handed alright now we go back into the booth we tack the tank down after its cured and we cleared it now there are little bumps there from the striping paint if you want to get one better we let the tank sit overnight and we'll sand it one more time to eliminate that bump from the pinstripe you know at the current car shows today art work extra points are given if it can't be felt if it's buried and clear now we've got some nice colors we've got our shadow and as you saw it isn't that difficult it isn't something that anybody can't it can't do a little practice now here we're using a wet sanding tool I don't always advise using the tools except for the big areas to get the big areas knocked down now if dirt nib should get in when you do your finals your final clear they can be sanded out with 2,000 grit 1500 grit or some even use 1200 grit on motorcycles I like to do the first sand with 15 and go over it again with some 2000 before I bring out the buffer and then you can make them perfect this eliminates any of the dirt nibs that might get in the job and and makes the job perfect so we blow the water off we get our little foam pad McGuire's makes a foam pad that works in a da sander others may also have comparable products we've worked with these for quite some time and they're a nice little tool for motorcycles you just take your da sanding pad off and replace it with a buffing pad and use some compound that's recommended for the foam pad and with light pressure and just kind of spending some time back and forth you should use two hands here put the polish material down and so it doesn't come unglued on you and hit something and shred your pad a little more compound you may have to buff a couple of times to get the 2,000 grit scratches out but the tank will come up just like glass and no dirt nebs no imperfections from the gun pattern it's absolutely perfect use a little bit of pressure and just take your time you need to generate a little bit of heat when you buff urethane so you don't want to move too fast let some heat be generated but as you can see these sanding scratches the 2,000 grit scratches are coming out extremely fast now we finished our striping by putting two or three more coats of clear over the top and now we'll put some high-tech swirl Eliminator over the top to get rid of any swirl marks that we might have put in with our foam pad and then we'll we'll hold back from waxing for at least 60 days is normally recommended waxing will help clean up but will not improve the shine the shine is going to be tough to beat now we've got a fuel proofed finish here you can spill gas on this tank all day long and it will not discolor it will not change it will not lift the paint away it will hold up extremely well and the striping won't come off like it will with normal striping paints because it's buried under a urethane to pack clear coat this job should last for years if he doesn't fall over again and cause problems as happened with his last job now this is a much more elaborate and nicer flame design than what he had when the tank was brought in and I'm sure he'll get a lot of attention and compliments on the job and it's something that's easy to do as we said earlier when it comes to art with flames there are many different styles this being just one and no two painters do the things exactly alike and that's the way it should be look at the gloss and this tank and the shine that customer is going to be extremely pleased with his tank and he'll get compliments that's what's so much fun about custom painting you never tire of this kind of quality work at least I haven't in 35 years of doing it I think you'll have a lot of fun playing with it and it doesn't require that much material and equipment to do we didn't use a lot of paint the paint that we purchased to do this tank would have done a couple of fenders as well the cosmic custom painting system is one you really will enjoy working with here's a rear fender on a Harley that we did a ghost flame on it's difficult to see on the film because that's the principle of it here's the tank that goes with that there's kind of a lighter color or a color that's very close to the same color of the candy here's a ext snowmobile hood that we flamed with some Arctic Cat colors on a new snowmobile here's the plant managers pickup truck that we did over the holiday season we've got some pinstriping we did some small airbrush work on the wheels and pinstripe the wheels to kind of give it a little bit of a jump we did some graphics on the side and lettered the logo on the side of the truck as well think you'll enjoy working with the products once you get used to them we do have a technical manual available when the products are purchased simply ask for the technical manual and it covers a run down on each and every product that we manufacture and do's and don'ts that you should know during the painting process so errors are a limit [Music] you

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Keywords: how to repair clear coat, auto painting, LucastheSpider, Funny, Family Entertainment, Pets, SATAJET, IWATA, DEVILBISS, DIY, painting for beginners, Will Smith, Devilbiss DV1, CLEAR COAT, TRENDING, Don Pepe, 350z, BoxChevy

Id: bE3-xZ-VDlg

Length: 58min 54sec (3534 seconds)

Published: Thu Apr 18 2019