GMAW-S 3G Test Plate

hey Jody here thanks for watching another video from welding tips and tricks calm I've got a short circuit mig welding video for you today it's a 3g test plate let's do it all the mill scale has been removed from both sides in the weld area it's set up and ready to weld tacked with a 5/32 gap it's probably a tight 532 knoll and knife edge also called feathered edge I always like to take a few dry runs make sure I'm not going to hang up on anything when I'm welding any kind of test weld and so I've done a few of those now I'm trying to maintain quite a bit of upward gun angle as I go downhill with a kind of a fast wiggle side to side type motion like this just kind of bouncing from wall to wall I'm not trying to take it out really wide on those walls either if I go too wide on the walls what'll happen is the root will just be flat or even slightly below flush on the backside so if I if I don't go very wide at all and keep the wire ride on the leading edge of that puddle right on the edge of it try to maintain the same gun angle all the way down maintain the same stick out don't go very wide and don't keep the wire so far on the front that you'll shoot wire through and get whiskers on the backside there's a quick look at the back side push through a little bit it could be a little bit better I think I dropped voltage just a 1/10 or so it might help now before we do the second pass let's talk about restarts because sometimes you you just have to stop something happens you step on your your MIG gun or something and when you stop with a MIG root downhill or uphill either one usually it leaves a little fisheye and you need to taper it back and grind it down at least tapered this far it wouldn't hurt a thing if I tapered this back another quarter of an inch to give myself a nice launching pad but here's the back side of it you can see it warming up gives it a chance to warm up before it consumes that thinnest part of it and then if you taper it back far enough you will have a nice smooth tie-in you'll hardly be able to tell alright this was done without without any stops and starts and we're gonna do the second pass now didn't really let it cool much just just long enough to get situated this is the motion that you're gonna see on that second pass and I'm going to stop short of consuming that edge I want to leave about a sixteenth there and I want this thing to be about a sixteenth below flush for the cover pass that's about ideal when you can do that now some people would try to squeeze to fill passes in here before the cap and you probably could that this is 30 degree bevels here and I've done plate like this several years ago using thirty seven and a half degree plates and you could probably squeeze a total of route pass to fills and a cover pass on those this will be difficult to get that many passes in so I'm just shooting for one fill and again I'm stopping short about a sixteenth from the edge pausing just a little bit not spending a lot of time across the middle and then using that technique and keeping the arc on the leading edge of the puddle I'm not using a whole tremendous amount of gun angle here just a slight slight push the gun is kicked back just a little bit straight on works fine too I've seen people even use this a very slight drag but you tend to get a little bit of a crowned fill pass when you use a slight drag that one there it's pretty flat and that's a good thing to have your fill passes as flat as possible makes the next pass go in better I let it cool down to about a hundred and fifty degrees or so and shine it up a little bit with a wire wheel to get those silicon islands off of there one more pass to go now this one it's going to be almost the same exact technique as the prior pass so you can do a straight C weave or you can put just a little bit of an arch in the motion but you want to hold those toes for just a count come across the middle fairly quickly and overlap those edges by just only about a sixteenth of an inch all right here we go again gun angle I'm going to be almost straight in just to kick back maybe ten degrees and usually if you shoot four straight in you'll be about ten to without even knowing it that just seems to be a natural tendency for most people to start off straight and as they travel as they travel upward to kick the gun back a little bit you can see there is it's almost straight in and that works just fine like again I think it's good to shoot for straight and then you wind up being a good 10 or 15 degrees without even thinking about it whereas if you shoot for 10 or 15 degrees you might be 30 or more by the time you get up the plate and as I already mentioned it's about one second per going across let's see okay all right thousand one thousand two thousand three thousand four just pretty close again holding the toes just briefly and not spending a whole lot of time across the middle I'm not bouncing from side to side I'm just not not going really slow and then I'm trying to overlap those edges of the bevel just by about a sixteenth of an inch and trying to do it the same each time so all these things if you do everything the same what happens is you get a pretty uniform weld the weave pattern is pretty uniform the edges are straight the edges are uniform the height of the of the reinforcement is uniform you know we just kind of got to train yourself to to do things uniformly be as much like a robot as you can and the benefit is you're not a robot so you can make little adjustments as you go if you if you see a little bit of a high place or something you can move a little quicker over that you can notice the the the joint next to that is all cleaned up and ready to well that's that's in case I screwed up it usually takes me more than one shot to to get something going when I haven't spent I haven't done it in a while so I'm going to do a little cut and etch on here just to see what happened in between route pass and the second pass and in between the second pass and the cover pass so after setting my shirttail on fire with sparks going the other way I decided to try holding the grinder like my buddy JD does and got that cut out with one of those wheels that's a Walther zip wheel and I got a little bit left so that that wheel lasted pretty long time usually I just hit it with a flap disc and then maybe one more step maybe two more steps with some scotch brite pads from 3m and that's about fine enough for a edge the finer you polish the better quality etch the quicker it etches the better it etches but this is plenty fine enough for a macro test where we're just looking for lack of fusion and things like that we're not looking at microstructure and so there you have it you know not anything jumps out at me anyway as far as lack of fusion in between passes could be a little bit more reinforcement on the route but other than that I think it it did okay well hey thanks very much for hanging in there and watching we'll see you next time you

Channel: weldingtipsandtricks

Views: 1,603,365

Rating: 4.895483 out of 5

Keywords: GMAW-S, gas metal arc welding, short circuit mig, mig welding test, gmaw test, mig welding techniques, mig welding uphill, welding tips and tricks

Id: 2ELkhLI_W4U

Length: 7min 45sec (465 seconds)

Published: Tue Sep 17 2019