Garage wall vapor barrier and how to install it

hey everyone welcome back to the channel thanks for tuning in we are back in the garage today where uh we are going to be adding a vapor barrier to the wall we insulated in a previous video so the insulation is great but we need to add the barrier in order to get that thermal break and to stop the cold from coming in or stop the heat from coming in whatever whichever one we want depending on the season so that's what we're going to do today so we accomplished this by adding what's called a 6 mil poly and that's the thickness of the plastic and in the area here our codes calls for a cgsb rated poly which is the canadian general standards board and it's it's the approved thickness and the improved material to properly vapor barrier walls so make sure in your neighborhood you check on the code to make sure you have the right material to do this type of project here's a rule poly normally comes clear but they also make it in white and for some commercial applications it's made black as well i just happen to have a roll of this white stuff left over from a couple previous renaults so we're going to use this up basically this came out for homeowners so that when a basement was insulated and vapor barrier or garage was done you wouldn't see the insulation and the studs it covers it up i like it because it it serves a purpose but it also brightens up the space so um we have it we're going to use it that's what it looks like all right so this is a real straightforward job basically gets hung and stapled in place because this is a fully insulated garage shop we're going to be going one step further we're going to be adding an acoustical sealant to the top plate and the bottom plate and the end studs just to fully seal this wall and that's going to again help us achieve that thermal break that we're looking for so this is this is basically cut stretched out and stapled in place and we're sealing it up and uh that's kind of all there is to it okay guys uh as always this is a straightforward job we don't need many tools but here's what we do need we got our h1 our trusty olfa knife here uh you need a staple gun such as this t50 staples i like to use 3 8 but i got 5 16 in the shop so we're going to use those up an alternative to a staple gun and a little bit easier in my opinion is what's called attacker or a hammer attacker so you swing it like a hammer and it just makes it easier to work um to use your hands to to work with this stuff instead of having this trigger mechanism um i mentioned we're gonna seal up the plates and the end studs we've got some acoustical sealant in order to do that we're going to throw some gloves on because this stuff's messy to work with and lastly we've got some tuck tape and i'll talk about this a little bit more so i've been i've used red tuck tape in the past and red is designed for the house wrap uh the tyvek house wrap or any sort of competitor's house wrap it works really well but there's this blue tuck tape and this is actually designed for a vapor barrier for that thermal break it seals up your seams so the other thing i'll mention about this is it's it's got some extra adhesion it's really sticky stuff once you put it on your your joints it's not coming off so we're going to use the blue tuck tape i prefer it for this application and i'll be using it for a vapor barrier application going forward let's talk about our poly it comes in a typical roll like this um now this roll is is five feet long but don't let it fool you it comes folded in half so a typical roll of poly is actually 10 feet in length which is designed to give you some play on the top of your wall and and some extra on the bottom of your wall um so so you unroll it and you unfold it at the same time this is typically how it comes it's how you buy it um in our case here we've got we've got a six inch curb and we've got a 10 foot high wall so i'm not going to have anything left over on the top or the bottom but it's going to tuck really nicely behind our drywall and we're sealing it up anyway so so in our case it doesn't matter but this is typically what you get when you grab a roller pulley so one last thing i'll mention um we're not going to worry about dealing with our our our spray foam on the window today but we are going to cut out and staple the opening we'll go through that and we've got a couple different things to deal with here we have um our boots around our outlet our gang boxes i'll show you how to cut that out and deal with that so we've got two of these boots to deal with and like i mentioned we've got to deal with our window opening and how to properly cut that and secure the poly around our window framing here okay um we're going to start in the corner like you typically would we've got our attacker we've got our poly i've got a wrap around here and it's a short wall about 14 inches so we're gonna try and capture that in one piece so i don't have to tape a corner so uh first step grab your roll throw it in the corner i'm going to unroll a little bit over here go around the corner with my material and i'm just going to put it i'm just going to tack this up here make sure it looks somewhat straight [Music] now so we'll mention if you're doing this on your own like i am it helps to have a couple extra sets of hands but you don't necessarily need it so stretch out your folly tack it up in a couple spots and we're just trying to get an idea whether we have enough material here looks good first of all we're going to give ourselves some extra material just so that we're not gonna be short i like to cut this from the back against the roll itself and then you can just follow the you can follow the roll down and it ends up being really relatively straight just like that okay so we've got our pulley loosely tacked up just to make sure we got enough of a length here now we're gonna unfold it okay we've left ourselves some excess material in the corner here a little tip guys i uh i staple up a chunk of cardboard there about six staples in it and that is not going anywhere so i need to be able to stretch this poly out so when i get up here i type on this to get it nice and tight that is that is very strong it's going to enable me to stretch this out as we go i'm gonna start securing it up along with that plate but i'm gonna do it about about six inches down from that top plate [Music] so [Music] a little trickier to work in the garage where you've got some obstructions such as overhead door mechanisms and whatnot so what we've done is we've got its stress shell we've got it leveled out where we want it we stapled it about six inches down from the top all along the top of the wall definitely trickier working with that a 10 foot wall and definitely trickier working with obstructions but this is kind of the starting point notice how it's laying loose it's fairly level it does not have to be perfect but i want the top plate covered and i want the bottom plate covered okay we're ready to start off with our acoustical sealant and what we're going to do is we're going to be putting sealant all along the top plate down the side studs and all along the bottom plate so we've got our top plate all sealed up everything's stapled now what we're going to do we're going to start stretching the poly across the wall so i'm going to add some sealer on this stud down the right hand side here and then we're going to start stapling and working our way down [Music] i'm hitting every other stud here because we are going to add drywall to this wall so it doesn't need to be stapled every 12 inches you don't have to go crazy because the drywall is going to hold this in place anyway [Music] okay so we're gonna keep working back to our corner on the left-hand side there now we're gonna run a bead along the bottom plate and uh get that sealed create our thermal break add the staples we're going to wrap up in that corner over there [Music] we sealed up our bottom plate and now we're going to put some staples in just to hold it in place spacing on the poly he's perfect [Music] so guys just wrapping up our last corner one thing we'll point out with the corner you want to leave everything loose in the corner make sure there's some room one way to do this is to fold the plastic and leave a fold in the corner but this is this is nice and loose as it sits because as i put my board on here my drywall i don't want to be tearing the poly all right lose the gloves we're done with that stuff messy we've got uh a window to deal with and we've got a couple of outlets so let's start with one of the outlets we got our boot behind here so basically what you want to do and we've left the plate on we've got a little bit of visibility here we want to make an x from one corner of the plate to the other just like so and open this up put the knife down so you don't chop your fingers off what you're going to do is you're going to reach in behind and you're going to pull this boot out and around the poly tuck it all in and now you've got your boot on top of the pulley so once you've got your boot on top of your poly grab your blue tuck tape we talked about earlier and we're gonna tape this seam all the way around the boot on the outlet make a neat job of this because even though i'm covering up if you're not covering up the drywall you know take your time there's no sense in being uh quick and sloppy with it so there you go so now we've got our boot sealed to our vapor barrier we've got our thermal break the outlet is no longer going to be a cold spot in the wall so same thing when you're going to tackle the window start in the corner make an x through the poly from one corner to the other all right now i've got a bunch of leftover material so what do we do here well what i like to do is fold it up over the over the framing cut a nice straight line pull off your excess and do this all the way around the window once you get all your excess cut off wrap your pulse around your framing and just fire a couple staples to hold it down so we still got access to our spray foam on the window we got a bit of vapor barrier sealing this up also uh for our return board here to go in against the window we got this covered up so it's not laying on raw wood there and i will mention that uh what i needed to do was put some acoustic seal around the window as well so what i'll do is i'll pull this back add the sealant and i'll staple it back up all right guys that pretty much wraps it up uh we've got our both our outlet boots taped off we've got the window done all the studs and plates are sealed up so we've got a thermal break here the last thing i got to do is uh walk around a little little bits of tape just like this and uh cover up the spots where i pulled on the vapor barrier and i grabbed it got a couple staples pulled out of it so it ripped it a bit so we'll seal that up with duct tape make sure we're all done and we've got a sealed up wall so hey guys i hope that helped some of you um it's not too hard to do the job by yourself you do got to tack it up in a few spots have some patience and take your time um but we got this one done we're pretty much ready for drywall so again guys if you like the content please don't forget to like and subscribe we have more diy stuff coming and uh catch you guys in the next one take care [Music] you

Channel: J of All Trades

Views: 3,349

Rating: 4.9428573 out of 5

Keywords: diy, vaporbarrier, olfa h1, garage, shop, accoustiseal

Id: 3HpKLfl9eZM

Length: 16min 56sec (1016 seconds)

Published: Thu May 13 2021