Gang Milling Parallels

hey guys welcome to bar Z my name is Stan and we're just going to do a standalone video here and we're going to make some parallels um there's a YouTube viewer by the name of harridan that has ordered some very special parallels I don't I'm not sure what he's doing with them but they're all metric sizes they're 150 by 46 150 by 47 and 150 by 48 so they're very close to each other they're only a millimeter off of each other and he ordered him in in 8 inch want some 1/8 inch thick or whatever they grind out to when we're done with them but we're going to go over the mill work today and then in a following video after they get hardened we're going to do another video on brightening them up but there's a set of six 46 millimeter I've got my hallmark on one side the maker's mark on the other side we've got the size of the parallel because they're so close these are 46 is here in the forty sevens but you know what these two were laying on the table just a millimeter difference it's it's very little so I went ahead and stamped them so that we so we know the difference you know between the between the three sizes when he picks them up so he doesn't pick up a mismatched set so let's go over to the mill and we'll show you how to gang mill and get them all lined up these are straight off the bandsaw we got to get them lined up we got to get them cut to length and equalled up and then we got to shave the top and then we got to put some grooves in them for the maker's mark and the size and the reason we do that the reason we we put a little depressed area is so that we've got room to grind and we don't take off the stamps and also if you know if someone wanted to deface that or try to remove that and claim it as their own did actually have to destroy the tool to even remove the 46 or the bar Z in the corner that way this guy knows these are his parallels and if somebody wanted to try to steal them from them and take off that mark they couldn't do it without destroying the tool so that's the two reasons we put that little depression in there for the stamping all right so let's get over the mill and and take a look at what it takes to get a set of these gang milled okay so we go all our parts clean I was going to show you my setup on this and everything's already magged down I've used the fence along the backside to drop this block on and this block on so I know my parts are going in square I bring all my parallels in and I bump them into this common surface and then I put this on each side of them and the only thing left to do is just give this a slight tap with a with a rubber hammer and pinch all these down and feel the top of them make sure you're all flat here and you're all your array here irregularities jocularity all your irregularities are going to be over on this side you're going to be pretty close here so we're ready to put a couple of can't twist clamps on these and we're just going to do that up high up here for now so we can get them out and if we get it clamped into the mill we will transfer these clamps around for actual milling but this will just keep us from losing our position okay so now we can take these out of the out-of-hours little squaring fixture here I found that a magnetic surface plate is wonderful for aligning parts so now we've got now we've got six parallels just very even and always rely on your sense of touch your sense of touch the human senses can can detect one thousandth we've got some irregular beyond saw cuts here but not terrible you know that'll mill and clean up really this is the side we bumped into the square but those are going to get cleaned up first and then we're going to move on to the this is the bad side this is a straight bandsaw cut so let's go over the mill and start working on that all right so we're back over at the mill and we've got you've got our parallels still clamped from the plate and we need to get get our clamps rearranged so that we can clamp them in see our first surface we want to cut is right here these are the ones that are the closest right now this is the side we used to index from so we want to put this in the mill hanging out just slightly so we want to orient our are our clamps so let's say let's just clamp down on this with the mill vise so we can transfer our can twist clamps around so we're going to tighten there and pinch them all down we're going to take our first one and relocate it to here I think that's all we need from you now let's open this thing up here's a tip for you don't put your tool or your call it in here until you're done setting up your cart every time you go to work around one of these even picking them up look at that just picking up a mill you can you can you can really ding yourself up if you're sitting there cranking on a bolt put your knuckle I don't know how many times you put a knuckle into it into a mill and man that hurts and they when I tell you they are sharp so it's part set up before you go messing around with anything like that I'm going to start off maybe a low set of parallels make sure our voice is clean at the bottom see how do you do see if these you're dead low it's good an exercise up parallel is making parallels it's the eternal conflict arise with the next time up here yeah I think we're pretty happy there the top one sitting a little proud I've cleared my clamp over here on this side I think we'll be disciplined for some side milling hang that out just a little bit just so our can't twist can stay on there we're going to squeak down on that shims call it crinch I'm going to crunch down on that and we're going to grab old faithful here until our parallels are tight down to the bottom okay pretty happy there and you know we're going to move this guy just Oprah chat to us to give us some room to get in here and do some millinery you all right see how close that is even up on pretty quick we've got less than uh listen a millimeter to go yeah we've got a point seven one mil to go I'm going to zero I'm going to take it in two steps oh let's take let's take point five and then we'll come back and take another little bit another point two after we're done there's keep clean up keep it from jumping around on us all right here we go point three you okay so we're spot on there so we've got our we've got our grinding allowance on each side we're happy there we're happy they're equal to each other to gangrel them so yeah all you gotta do is work on the tops okay so now we got it over in the vise for for a quick deeper and you don't have to crunch down on a two-hour just just snug and we're not worried about the finish you know we're not using soft jaws or anything we don't really care if we put a little dimple or something in the face because it's all going to get ground anyways but we what we do want to keep two two clamps on it at all times so we're just going to dress up these corners here and and do them in gang so we're going to we're going to roll a little a chain four there on this corner right here and down this side and down this side and on this little corner err now what this does on a microscopic level on a very small level just uh even a file will roll a wire edge I know you're deburring but you're creating by doing this you're not only creating you're creating a chamber here but you're rolling a wire edge over you're rolling a wire edge over both sides so you've got a little wire edge down here and a little wire edge down here anomie it's on the point with so in this example this this edge you've just broken you've got a little wire edge on this side and a little wire edge on this side that will affect measuring and how things clamp in and things like that so it'll affect the caliper reading it'll affect a micrometer reading so just get yourself a diamond whetstone there's a little handy fold up goody then you can use it kind of like a file and just it doesn't take much just just to make that gone and just hold it flat on these surfaces here and that's going to knock off that that little microscopic wire edge and it's going to eliminate any any errors in your in your readings so that's that's a pretty good trick to finalize your your filing if you're going to be measuring you know fairly precisely so at this point oops at this point we've got these parallels to length in gangs and they've never come apart since we started this they've stayed clamped together and they've always had minimum two clamps on them at all times now we're going to work on this on the height we know where the length we're happy there so let's get back over the mill and get them in vertically and start milling down these tops okay now we're ready bird we brought it back over to the mill and still the clamps still haven't come off it they've always had two clamps on it at all times whether it be a vise and one clamp or whatever but we've rearranged it and we put a small parallel in down here and we've still got our clamps on from when it was over on the vise and if you're going to seat it we're only on one parallel so it's on the it's on there basically on this rear one here and if you if you want to knock it down you want to be careful not to hit out here and knock your stack out of alignment and all I do is I take up a piece of heavy flat bar there's just a chunk of stuff and you hold it very firmly very flat and give it a give it a light tap and make sure you're down on your rear parallel and see my parallel is secure it so we're loaded and then feel your tops and use that ability you have to be able to feel one thousandth of an inch and make sure you didn't slip the stack but chances are you did not as long as your clamps securely so that's a good trick and also you notice I'm not centered on the vise I'm leaving some hanging out it's so I get in there with a micrometer and give me a place to measure learn not to screw yourself you know this this ideally for milling and rigidity would Center this thing up on the on the vise jaws and get it you know so we don't have anything hanging out but now I want a little I want a little hang out so I want to be able to get in there and and measure periodically and you know check my progress so those are a couple of tips for setting up in the mill the last thing we're going to do now that we're seated and we know we're we're tapped down we want to check it you know I we already know that our parallel is is true and I trust my existing parallel but let's check it anyways make sure we didn't seed it funny or anything like that we're going to leave these on is chicken clamps as we mill this top but let's let's grab an indicator to sweep that top and see how close it is let's try to get on just one of the bars that we don't want to be on a couple of them and running up and down one of the grooves you know to get right in the middle one of those bars get a zero here okay can you see that indicator little glarry what helps zinging help me turn off the other little light maybe that will help I do anything for you sort of okay let's just sweep this real quick and all right so we're pretty darn happy that that that top is uh we've got it in the lights properly and we're going to be milling off and we're not we're not building door stops here we're building something that's supposed to be parallel all right let's get this out of here and get to milling we're going to even feed 20 thousands I'm leaving my shield off here for now just so you can see what we're going but the red hot stuffs flying around here and see pretty simply what we can do is pop that clamp off and then get a good measurement right here to see where that's fifty point three millimeters doesn't hurt you to record all your dimensions as you go you put your target dimension down here and then just after you make every cut to see where you just record it real quick w4t takes this stuff right off great notepad see you someone's already polluting my notepad but this is the kind of stuff that's going to be flying up in the camera and you see the color of the chips are kind of a straw colored member turning purple so just trying to keep that from burning itself into my lens and we'll grab another measurement Aaron real quick 40:19 in our last measurement so our last two measurements were fifty point three forty nine eight so I got a target of 47 through the twenty thousands and we'll do it again for those of you that wonder why I'm using such a big cutter mm that's a an inch and a half cutter and we're only plowing through three quarters of an inch of material here I'm using a Sandvik ceramic it's called a sarah mat insert it's a TPG 321 actually got a lock it's got it's got a strange character there it is right there TPK 320 or TPK 32p - it's milling only it's not for it's not for using away it's got a flat spot on the leading edge you know it leaves a beautiful finish and it's been good inserts and sorry for that interruption I had a quick phone call I to take care of and now we're on our third measurement and let's see where we're at here I don't know do you guys can see that LCD or not we're 249 3 yep 49 3 so let's record that and continue for a clamp-on first how would that be let's do that you don't want to get anywhere near that that's just spinning death right there all right brought the table up another 20 and a clam can already to hold one more that's 48 eight times like this would be my symmetric dials on my machine but I don't we're going to bring it up another 20 because we're seeing here we're getting about three four five six eight about 5.5 millimeter per twenty thousand all right let's uh take another skim out of that it's 48 3 so we're landing every 20,000 s we're going from 8 to 3 3 8 3 8 3 8 so we're very consistent so we're we're doing good so i1 is forty eight point three and I'm not a big safety Nazi but I'm telling you that thing I'll kill you there I'll just tear you up don't even think about put your hands in there without being on it the way things have been going we should read about forty seven eight the upper forty seven eight to forty seven point eight to will record that right here point eight to will start bringing out that other decimal place right now so 20,000th is going to put us at forty seven three and change so let's bring it up another twenty and then our final skim cut will be whatever it takes to get that last a little bit out of there we might have to do a little bit of math god forbid clamp good lord that's on three for three on this one alright here we go here forty seven point three one mule math here where's my calculator and this is our final skin you and so we're up on a final and y'all chips off the top of there and see we're out here so we're at forty seven point two nine nine so we're right at our at our grinding allowance we wanted when we're done drying we're going to have a forty seven millimeter exact but and we wanted to leave 0.3 over but we're two ninety nine so we're calling that good for are grinding allowance now the last thing we're going to do before we take it out of the vise we're going to go and knock these edges down with the with the foil like I showed you earlier and now we've got a we've got a match set what I am going to do is let the table down and you're going to hear my air-powered knee feed right now you ready for this hold yours alright that'll give me some room to work we're going to brush this down real quick before get in there and start filing that tools coming out I'm going to show you those ceramic inserts when I was talking about I don't know whether you can see that little flat spot right across that edge these are for milling use only but those little ceramic inserts are they're amazing getting a pretty nice finish out of them and try they're just tough as nails you can hear the interrupted cut and I've been real impressed with those little inserts that's good at big file you and then we're going to our same trick with the diamond stone just to get the wire edges off that the file rolled over not that we need them because but next stop is is getting the maker's mark and then they go to hardening so they're gonna these poor little guys are going to get heated well over 1300 degrees maybe 1500 check my chart for thicknesses okay but that's a match set and now at this point we can break these down they don't have a cap tap clamps on them anymore and there you have six parallels those two stuck together now you have six parallels equal in all respects alright thanks for watching okay so we're ready to do the slot on the other side and we're going to use our wiggler and best way I've found to do this let's get the wiggler Strait running straight first and this way I've found to do this he just going to be put a tool in there anyways you've already a tool with ya bringing that point down as close as you can to the surface and just take your tools just roll it in until she's running straight and then we're already in the Y position correctly from our last one so we're just going to roll over to our limit line here and we chose a self spacing it's 0.375 for a 375 in mil and now I just use the shadow I've got a light source off to the to the left there so I just use the shadow of the tip of that thing and watch it converge on the tip of the pointer and right there I'm happy so I'm going to lock my table there and that's going to be my start point for my for my letters so we're going to self space we're going to we're going to plunge with a 375 we're going to move over 375 and just create a kind of an oval slot for us to stamp our two numbers in not the bottom all right pretty happy there that's going to give us a place to put our two numbers to indicate both sides the parallelism nice alright five more times okay and people ask me how I get my stamps in so straight you know what I don't but that's how you know my stuff is handmade I just start off with a block to scrap whatever it's whatever I can clamp down on the table securely and then I I create a fence in this case it's two dissimilar parallels and I slide this right underneath it so I've got one fence for my part and I've got another fence up here for my for my stamp and in this case we're going to stamp before and a7 and all you have to do is worry about your exposition the Y is already dictated by the parallel so it's kind of nice it's easy to it's easy to line up and easy to see and you know what this is how we know these are handmade this isn't my stamping is not perfect I never trust those little they give you a little pock mark here on the backside of the scamp that's supposed to be facing towards you but I never trust and I found one at one time it was backwards and I've never trusted a single stamp since so 47 boom all right so now we know we've got forty seven millimeter parallels here so there's a stack of 47 so I've got the 46 is done already these are ready to go to harden all righty and we're back from that and so now you know how all the mill work goes it's pretty fast you don't have to get the hang of it you just keep two clamps on that thing at all times when you're flipping it and between the vise and the and the and the can twists you've always got those things pinned together so you're assured that your sets are going to be very very equal and that really cuts down on your grinding time you don't get them as accurate as you possibly can right out of the gate and then when you grind you and really peeling a few thousands out of there to get them to match up all right so I hope you enjoyed this this is going to be part 1 part 2 is going to be the hardening and the grinding so stay tuned for that alright guys thanks for watching you

Channel: Shadon HKW

Views: 46,664

Rating: 4.9499998 out of 5

Keywords: Parallels, Milling (Product Category), milling machine, toolmaking

Id: TLHQ5xX-bT0

Length: 36min 25sec (2185 seconds)

Published: Mon Mar 23 2015