Games Workshop No Longer Makes the Best Warhammer Models?!

oh hell yeah did they finally release new tyranid models no these are actually much cooler alternative sculpts that i 3d printed 3d 3d printed you lost your damn mind boy this is how you end up with your face on the side of a milk carton they got their ears everywhere i bet they got this room bugged right now yeah the bugs are right here i 3d printed them you hear that i bet they got choppers triangulating our coordinates as we speak i gotta go arm the booby traps [Music] hello again fellow hobby anarchists i think it's safe to say that we're always looking for cool models to paint and play with in my experience a model that doesn't excite me is just a model that doesn't get painted and with the rise and popularity of our hobby we now suddenly have something that was historically quite scarce options we now have a variety of companies both big and small that produce really nice quality models and then we also have 3d printing where these awesome sculptors are producing 3d designs that we can print at home that either give us a bunch of new options for customizing our models or actually even improving on the current games workshop sculpts themselves and let's be clear from the get-go this is not a video about me on games workshop i firmly believe that they produce some of the most amazing models that money can buy but still options remember it's still your time it's still your money and it's still your army so if you want to customize your army with bits whether from gaines workshop or from a different company i think you should do it also if you want to use an alternative model from a different company altogether because you don't like the game's workshop models but you still want to play that army i think you should do that as well so for science i decided to start up my brand new any cubic photon monox 6k printer print out some alternative sculpts and see how they compare not only the quality of the model and how cool it looks compared to the official games workshop model but also see how it looks once it's all painted up in a games workshop color scheme i really dig these vicious deadly looking aliens and they really look like they could fit well into a tyranid army or even compose an entire army of them so give us an apples to apples comparison i'm gonna paint up this model in a classic hive tyrant color scheme the one that my brain goes to when i think of tyranids and we're going to do it in a heavy metal paint style and see how they look compared to the real games workshop tyranids so you may be asking why john are you priming this model blue there's no blue in the hive tyrant color scheme good question i recently got some of these molotov marker refills and i've seen marco on them not just make a youtube channel use them to prime and they look great i was pumped to try them out and i guess i just didn't really consider that there was no reason to actually prime this model blue i got excited and didn't think this through the heavy metal paint style is known for being very vibrant and clean and just like any miniature painting style there are many paths to the same destination for me i found the most time efficient way to achieve this look is done in three simple steps oh i bet you thought i was just gonna give you the three steps right now so you could just learn the three steps and then now watch the rest of the video ha i'm on to you not gonna happen the best part about this three-step process that i've yet to explain to you is that it grows with you as a painter you can bring more depth to each of these steps or go back and forth to them to build up a higher quality final product or you can keep it very minimal if you're trying to hammer out a bunch of models and still make them look great on the table man i bet you really want to know what those three steps are yeah all right i won't keep you waiting any longer the first step is obviously to base coat each surface of the model this is going to be our mid tone so remember that it's not brighter than we want our final mid tone to be it's not darker it's right in the middle most importantly it needs to be a fully opaque coat make sure you give it multiple layers so you don't see any of your primer underneath that step is pretty self-explanatory so let's go on to step number two here we're going to add depth of color through washes or very thin paint over all of that base coated surface we want it to go right into our cracks and crevices and add some color depth there it's important that your wash isn't so intense that it completely covers or blows out your base tone as you can see our skin starts to look a little bit like freddy krueger here but i can still tell that there's a cream color underneath i like to use either contrast medium or flow aid to ensure the wash still flows into the details but doesn't tint our overall color so much that our next steps are going to look like trash at this point in the painting process i realized that my hive tyrant skin seems a little bit more reddish and irritated than the traditional games workshop style and quite frankly i'm okay with it these models have a ton of interesting depth and detail on their body and i want to make sure that we can accentuate that later and it's better to get this reddish tone down in those cracks and crevices now and we can build up and accentuate the cool sculpt as we go and step three is where we are gonna make or break the quality of our paint job so we're going to spend some more time explaining this as well as show it in multiple other steps around the model but for starters the most important thing we need to do is build back up to our pure base tone the most important part of this is that we thin our paints properly they do not want to leave a fully opaque or even mostly opaque layer on the model when we come back up and do this i like to work with roughly a 50 50 mix of paint and water as i slowly build up these mid-tones again the main reason people struggle with this paint style is in this step if your paint's too thick you don't get nice smooth transitions from your tinted surface back up to your mid-tone you'd rather have paint that's too thin than too thick just be sure you don't have too much on your brush or when you apply your coats it's going to run off your brush and right into those nice shadows and crevices that you've created i think there's a bit of an unspoken misconception about the heavy metal paint style out there because it's so clean and crisp our eye interprets it as a very simplistic painting style and that's not a slight on the paint style not at all but because the final product looks pretty straightforward we feel that it means it must not take a lot of time to paint like this all it takes is the correct level of skill and maybe i'm just not skilled enough but i'll tell you this this painting process is not fast especially this step you want to build back up to that pure base tone while being careful to maintain the fade to the pure crimps and shadows each successive layer should not cover the same amount of the surface as the thin layer below it work further and further away from the shadows with each coat being careful to understand how much of your base tone you want shown on the surface when it comes to highlighting how many levels of highlighting you do is really up to how much patience you have if you want a really high level golden demon piece you're probably going to go through six seven eight or more levels of highlight but for this tyranid i want him to look great at the table and his skin is already so bright that i'm just going to use one highlight a mix 5050 of white in our olive skin base tone i focus the color mostly around the areas that i want to catch the most attention the face the crisp edges i want to edge highlight and the peaks of the upward facing surfaces like his wicked looking spine [Music] today's video is brought to us by puppets war and that name may sound familiar to you because they've been around in the miniature war gaming hobby for many years they're well known for their amazing bits and alternative sculpt options for your favorite war games so when i found out they were taking their amazing sculpting ability and applying it to the 3d printing world let's just say i was a little bit excited and sure there's a lot of companies out there that make models that you can 3d print at home but how many of them can say that they've been in this hobby doing just this sculpting work for over a decade when i'm looking for models to 3d print i want high quality characterful action poses that are unique in something that stands out and that's exactly what puppets of war does and they don't just stop there they also have multi-pose kits to print so you can gear out your models exactly how you like and they have spots for magnets so you can swap out weapons arms accessories on the fly check out the link below to the puppet's war patreon page where signing up will get you a ton of amazing models with unique themes each month as well as their my mini factory page if you want individual bits or certain models you can buy them one at a time there and let's not forget about their og website the link is below as well so a big thank you to puppets war for supporting the channel and making these awesome alternatives for us in wargaming let's get back to the video i've decided to black in the eyes now since i still have the skin tone paint wet on my palette that way i can touch up the eyelids or the areas around there if i make a mistake while trying to paint in these eyes according to the official games workshop color scheme lich purple is the color used for a tyranid hive tyrant carapace unfortunately this color is no longer in production and mine is hard as a rock so i decided to do some looking to try to find a color match to my surprise games workshop does not have a one-to-one color match but beaten purple by p3 looks very very close ironic that the majority of the tyranid model line is so old that even the paint used to paint them is discontinued unfortunately i found out that beaten purple has terrible coverage and took eight ten coats to cover that blue primer underneath there was no reason to prime the stupid thing blue we repeat the same wash then build back up our mid tone to highlight step as before however it's important to note that this method can be a bit more tricky with flat surfaces or kind of larger organic shapes i just try to re-establish that base tone in the areas that wouldn't fall in shadow and slowly build up highlights on the edges by mixing in some faded plum to the beaten purple again i'm reminding you here because i often need to remind myself because i forget keep the paint thin and keep the brush loaded with only a minimal amount of paint it makes doing these edge highlights and smaller details so much easier [Music] in my mind's eye i always pictured that hive tyrants had black claws but looking at the box art it appears i was wrong they go from a near black up to a nice crimson red very sinister very cool so we're going to use this as an excuse for us to practice a nice smooth transition over a flat surface this kind of heavy metal painting technique is often seen used painting sword blades but seeing as these giant claws are basically alien bug swords i think it still applies the important thing is that we go pretty dark here with our shadow color so i mix just a little bit of flow a into my black templar contrast paint that black is just too strong to be used straight out of the bottom and we're all about being time efficient and contrast paint takes quite a while to dry so while that's drying we're going to head over to the teeth of our little bug boy here and knock those out real quick i'm actually just going to keep that pure blue primer as the color on the inside of the mouth and the dark lining where the teeth meet the gums see i planned it all along i'll do two quick coats of our base bone color and then a 50 50 mix of bone plus white as a thin line or point or dot on each tooth you could wash the teeth and build them back up with an interesting color if you wanted more fancy pants looking teeth than i did alright our contrast paint is dry so let's get back to the red claws the key to having a nice smooth fade from red to black is to build it up slowly over many coats of very thin paint i like to use floyd to thin my paint for this just because it gives a nice smooth thin coat and it extends the drying time so i don't accidentally rip up paint if i make two quick brush strokes over the same area oh and if you were looking to pick up some flow aid or like the mini holder i'm using or brushes or paints there's links below in the video description and those are all affiliate links meaning that it's no extra cost to you and in some cases even a discount for purchasing with those links and i get a little kickback so you support the channel if you work your way around the model giving each claw a swipe of color push towards the brighter areas by the time you're done with the last claw the first claw should be dry and ready for a second coat keep each coat covering less and less of our darker area and if you're a haphazard in applying this at this step these glazes won't result in that nice smooth fade you can go with thicker paint for the edge highlights of each blade just so you don't have to do that part 20 times but make sure it's not too thick or there's too much on your brush or that's going to ooze over onto that nice fade you've created and to build a bit of interest i'm going to add a bit of bright red to my burnt red and pop our edge highlights just a bit i want to focus these edge highlights towards the tip of each blade so it's brighter there and enhances the blend we've created you know what we don't get enough of in youtube mini painting videos montages so that's why we're going to do a basing montage cue the basic montage so [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] and with that our alternative tyranid model is complete i gotta say he looks like he could fit right into a tyranid force with no worries also he looks way cooler and i'd love to have an entire army of tyranids that would look like this dude right here but what do you think do you only buy and use the models from the game you're playing or do you kit bash your own models from a variety of bits use models by other companies or 3d print alternatives to fit the theme or maybe just because they're cooler than the originals i'm truly curious what you think and i'm sure it's already too late and the frothing wolves are already down in the comments section but i want to be clear i'm not advocating for the theft of ip for use for your own profit luckily there's a ton of design space out there for amazing artists and 3d modelers to come up with their own unique takes on variety of models in the fantasy and science fiction realms and i think this is a really good thing the more options that artists and business owners have to create amazing models amazing mini painting tools and paints and everything else in our hobby the more we benefit from these options because we get to financially support the people that we want to stand behind and want to see them succeed and make more amazing things and yes this does include financially supporting games workshop and speaking of support if you like what i do and want me to continue to make more videos here are a few rapid fire ways how you can support me subscribe like comment tell your nerdy friends about the channel join the ninja on patreon and get access to awesome rewards like a discord server weekly vlog and other fun stuff check out my merch and by yourself or another nerd person that you love an awesome thing and that's gonna do it for today folks thanks again for spending some time with me this week i look forward to our next encounter and until then make sure you get out there slay the gray and let's be clear from the get-go the heavy many the heavy medi the heavy medi the main reason people struggle with the heavy many heavy medi again heavy medi this kind of heavy pen heavy petty heavy medi painting sword blades all right we got trash panda terry uh he is on scout duty uh we got uh the alligators with chainsaws attached to their tails uh we got uh punji sticks in the ditches and uh we got uh the neighborhood watch miss gundersen is cataracts but i gave her the sniper rifle anyway

Channel: Ninjon

Views: 122,969

Keywords: warhammer, warhammer 40k, warhammer 40000, painting warhammer, painting 40k, tyranids, space marines, orks, age of sigmar, painting age of sigmar, games workshop, 3D printing, army painting, speed painting, painting 3D printing, beginner mini painting, squidmar, midwinter minis, miniac, painting minis, painting miniatures, painting board games, painting D&D, warhammer lore, sisters of battle, dark angels, black templars, blood angels, ultramarines, eldar

Id: oy4PWNVuSIw

Length: 19min 17sec (1157 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 12 2021