3 Paint Roulette: Space Marine Edition

i officially have way too many paints and while trying to come up with my own custom chapter colors for my space marines i decided we'll let the gods decide and by gods i mean the dice gods well hey there hobby heroes i'm feeling a little bit like a gambling man today so we're gonna try a little something new called three paint roulette and it's a bit of foreshadowing by the time we get to the end of this video i'm gonna need your help trust me you'll figure it out when we get there anyway let's get to the rules of this game and how the hell we're actually going to get this miniature painted what i'm going to do is take my five different paint racks and randomly roll three times each time i will then have to roll on another table to determine which random paint off of that rack will be used before we get down to the actual rolling of the dice let's talk about some house rules first of all i'm allowing myself to use my favorite black and my favorite white for this project therefore i'm not going to allow myself to roll a black or a white paint because i already have those next i'm not using really thin paints as options here meaning inks washes contrast paints and the like i need all three of my colors to be able to work from very opaque and thick paint down to thin so i'm just not allowing myself to roll those and finally i'm not allowing myself to roll for metallics as well now i'm not saying that metallics couldn't be a cool option here but it really does limit the use of that color when i only have three i need each one to be able to pull its weight because we have five racks to pull from i'm going to roll a ten sided dice divide it by two you know how this works first roll is a nine meaning it's coming from rack five now i counted out all the paints and it looks like i have 50 on that rack so if i roll number 50 or lower we're going to take that paint if not we're going to roll again until we get 50 or lower here we go 10. let's take a look number 10 from that paint rack was woodland green by nocturna all right this seems to be a nice deep desaturated green um okay some place to start can't tell if i like that outcome or don't but i like green so we've got a green let's roll again 50 that means it comes one two three four five six means it's coming from rack three let's see what we get that's too large 48 48 gave us faded plum by pro krill okay all right so we've got a darker desaturated green and a lilac looking color very pretty uh go worse i'm kind of like where this is going we got one more color to pick from let's see what it's going to be from rack number one it says here i've got 98 colors here in this rack so let's see what we pull 49 and 49 was i end in flesh this one says it's a flesh tone it kind of seems to be a kind of a light orangish brown so whereas our space marine doesn't currently have any flesh tone showing we're gonna have to get creative for this so here are our three colors i hinden flesh woodland green and faded plum before i jump right into the paint job i want to do a little test drive with my paints to see exactly how they work together or don't i need to understand how these mixes are going to help us succeed in creating our own custom space marine chapter hopefully we'll be able to find a mix of colors or combination of colors that excite me i want the three random colors selected in our space marine armor color to be unique and i'm seeing that the faded plum and the woodland green really do some interesting things when mixed together so now that we've mixed the paints my strategy is to try to go from a really kind of cool azure faded blue down to that pure woodland green in the shadows of this armor let's begin by painting all the armor i tend to like to start painting the most important or most impactful area of a model first i feel like it gives me a little bit more leeway and spending more time on the most important bits because by the time i get to the end of a paint job i tend to kind of rush things just to finish it up in this way my best work is done first i'm starting with my darkest color for the armor pure woodland green and i'll work my way up brighter as i go you'll notice i'm using a pretty small brush for this work and you probably see that this green is hardly noticeable at all over the black primer it's because i'm working with a fairly thinned paint mixed 50 50 with water and even from this initial stage my brush strokes are moving from the area that will be the most in shadow up to the areas that are going to be brightest [Music] because more pigments are left behind at the end of a brush stroke this method of painting ensures that we are controlling what is darker and what is lighter on each surface on every stage of the paint job yes this does take longer than just slapping on your base coats with each successive layer but as with everything in life speed comes with practice and i don't just mean speed in applying paint more importantly i mean that the more you paint while being mindful of what areas of the surface would catch more light or less the more you recognize how light hits different shapes and before you know it it becomes second nature and you no longer need to think about how a sphere would be painted differently than a cylinder there's all sorts of different techniques we could utilize to try to build up the color in multiple layers what i'm trying to do is build up tiny dots and scratches and slashes all over the surface where i continue to build them up in the areas that i want to be brighter and brighter only when i've reached full opacity in a color through all these tiny layers do i move on to the next paint and the color mixing i messed around with prior to painting is paid off a little bit here because i'm once again seeing that this deep green and faded plum mix work together quite nicely unlike pre-mixed pigments they harmonize a bit since they both include blue in their base mixes this leads to a transition from a deep sea foam green color up to a nice pale azure this color does stay quite desaturated and as weird as it sounds a dark green plus a light purple would make a pretty cool looking non-metallic silver the way that it's turning out here but i don't want my armor of my space marine to look like he's wearing faded blue jeans so we're gonna have to do something a little bit later to try to bring back some more vibrancy to the armor [Music] let's take a quick breather from our space marine work to talk about this week's sponsor artist opus and their mystifyingly mystical new product line simply known as cube inside each cube are highly detailed basing bits rigorously referenced from nature allowing you to create realistic settings conveniently easily and in a way that opens up a whole new world of custom basing both for individual models and entire armies there are different environmental options in the upcoming cube kickstarter and the basing uses a modular approach kind of like 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youtubers i think our space marine has had enough of a break let's get back to him but before i try to build back that purple into our armor i want to take an extra step to boost our highlights further at this point i'm not continuing to add more of the plum paint to our mix i'm adding white instead so we can push the contrast from light to dark but if you did want your space marine's armor to look nice and chromatic with these shifting little bits of color yet still bright here's where you could do that you could go brighter and brighter and make your edge highlights and final little dots pure white to really bring that shine home one of the aspects of painting from dark to light like we're doing today that i still struggle with is making sure i have nice harmony between mid tone shadow and highlight if you get this wrong you don't actually have a surface that your eye reads as your mid-tone color because you've got too much highlight and too much shadow to try to remedy this i ask myself moving from one layer to the next what is the true color of this surface when the model is completely painted that color should be most represented on that surface so when you're building up layers each layer shouldn't be uniform there should be a wider area of that midtone and only smaller areas of the shadows and of the highlights this can be a little bit tricky so don't beat yourself up over it but it's worth it practicing this painting style at a basic level just make sure you keep reminding yourself your mid tone should cover most of your shadow and your highlight shouldn't cover up too much of your mid-tone that way it'll still read as that true mid-tone color and of course the material the surface is made out of will affect how much of the mid-tone will be present a bright shiny sword will have much less of its mid-tone visible compared to a cotton dress but that's a complex topic for another day we don't have time to go over all of that and as i was implying earlier using our light plum color to bring our marine armor from a deep green up into a pale blue feels a bit like a cop out i do want our plum properly present here on the model but i also need to be careful so i don't turn this into a meme marine i thin down our pure faded plum to a glaze consistency about 10 parts water to one part paint then with almost all the paint dabbed off of the brush on a paper towel i glaze gently over the highlighted parts of the armor moving the brush from the darker area towards the brightest area of each surface but it's important not to actually get any of this paint into our pure green shadows i'm working with a very thin glaze of our purple because i don't want to overdo it too quickly i just want a nice tint of purple that i can control i can always go back with the second or third layer if it's not vibrant enough but if i just make it too thick from the get-go i'm going to end up with a cotton candy color marine that's going to be wonderful another benefit of glazing like this is it smooths out all the paint underneath so we have a nice fade up from our mid tone to our highlights where all those dots and stipples underneath are kind of blended together now at this point i'm ready to move on to painting other aspects of the model to see how this armor color really lives with those other colors that are not yet present i can always go back and change those later but before i do i do want to retouch up my edge highlights they were dulled down a little bit more than i'd like from that glazing and i want to make sure that they still have some nice crisp edges most of the time space springs are primarily one color but they often do have a secondary color that accents them well i'm gonna try that with this idrian flesh i'm gonna see if i can make a non-metallic copper or bronze look i'm not exactly sure if it's gonna look good or not but we're gonna give it a try anyway the aquila belt buckle shoulder trim and backpack vents will all be painted in this color i'll mix a bit of black into the flesh paint to start as a base coat for all those parts being sure to keep that pure black primer in the deepest cracks and most downturn areas of the shoulder pads [Music] we do need to jump from dark to bright fairly quickly to sell this material as metal again remember metals have less mid tone showing so i won't be doing nearly as many mixes for this step next i go straight from the pot with pure adrian flesh for our second coat i do want to make sure that a good portion of our initial darker base coat still shows up as we're painting this mid-tone on it's easier said than done when it comes to the wings of this aquila it's such tiny little spaces i tend to give my brush a little bit more pressure as i apply an edge highlight along those rings and that pushes the paint just deeper in there so we come back with a highlight later we'll see both of those layers we'll just be doing two highlighting steps for all the copper the first one is roughly a 50 50 mix with our flesh tone and white and the second one is up to about 75 percent white 25 flesh again we want to make sure we're doing big jumps in brightness over small distances to sell that this surface shines and this strong jump in brightness and opacity is more important than smoothness in our paint to sell to the eye that these things are in fact shiny [Music] for all the leather bits around his base i want to keep things really neutral and subdued so your eye isn't drawn to them i'll mix together some of my flesh color with a black and white to create a gray that has just a little hint of a brown from there i just gradually add in more white and make smaller lines and scratches to show some highlights on these surfaces just enough work to show that they were painted and they're there but not wasting time that the viewers aren't going to spend a whole lot of effort looking at i mix black and white with varying degrees of brightness to create some grays for quick scratches and edge highlights for the gun and then move on to our other final details it's kind of funny how even with three colors you can find out a way to paint something that looks like parchment and even it looks close enough to your eye that it just says yeah that's paper i guess we do kind of suffer from not having a nice vibrant color for the lenses of our space marines helmets but we're gonna have to deal with faded plum i guess i'll use a couple of coats to make sure we can make it nice and opaque and as bright as we can and then i'll go in with a small dot of pure white in the corners of the lenses to make them look like they're shiny i mean i gotta say he doesn't look as much like hot garbage that i thought he was when i first looked at those three paints it was kind of cool to look at this as a problem that we needed to try to crack and at the end we got our own custom space marine chapter oh and that reminds me i told you i was going to need your help at the end of this video and here we've done it we've created our own custom space brain chapter but what the hell do we call it like i'm terrible at naming these kinds of things so maybe you can help me out once you put down in the comments below what you think we should name this custom chapter and i will pick the winner based on which one is the coolest most badass or most funny or most inappropriate i don't know we'll see also do you think this idea of three paint roulette has enough legs for us to visit it again later maybe each time we do a totally different model or a totally different faction or maybe every time we keep coming up with new custom chapters of space marines and then we can go to the warhammer wiki page and add them ourselves and then we can create the most ridiculous lore ever about the origin of these custom chapters and all of the space escapades that they find themselves in the middle of space capades thanks for hanging out today i tell you what i am always amazed by how ridiculous it is that you guys keep coming back and watching these videos there might be something wrong with you oh and also for liking and subscribing because lord knows it's illegal to produce a youtube video without saying the words like and subscribe somewhere also if you're a full-on lunatic and you decide you want to support me in other ways well i got you covered there as well you can come on over and join the cult of the slayers of the great on my patreon and there we can hang out on discord any day of the week you get access to some other fun rewards and you help me make more of these video thank you to my patrons also you could pick up some ninja on merch down in the links below as well as use my affiliate links when you're out shopping for your nerdy goodies and that way you can support me as well until next time thanks for hanging out now get out of here and slay the gray so space marines are primarily space marines space marines typically are primarily one color but they typically space marines are typically primed [Music]

Channel: Ninjon

Views: 60,675

Keywords: warhammer, warhammer 40k, warhammer 40000, space marines, warhammer space marines, custom space marines, ultramarines, crimson fists, blood angels, dark angels, painting warhammer, painting 40k, painting space marines, painting age of sigmar, painting warhammer 40k, miniature painting, mini painting, beginner mini painting, miniac, age of squidmar, midwinter minis, warhammer 9e, warhammer army painting, space marine army, goobertown roulette

Id: KlpWr1cZSCY

Length: 18min 26sec (1106 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 17 2021