FULL BUILD - REBUILDING A CRASH DAMAGED BMW M5 COMPETITION

I didn't buy this BMW M5 competition from auction somebody else did but then they sold it to me after they realized one problem which was stopping them from fixing it buying a crash damaged car is risky as it is but buying it off someone who couldn't fix it adds a lot more to the risk now you're probably like me find a car that you want or dream of owning search on eBay or auto trader and then put lowest price first or does that just make me a cheap skate now I actually found this BMW M5 listed on eBay for £ 33,500 usually these cars go for around £50,000 if not more and it's easy to see why the BMW M5 comp comes with a 4.4 twin turbo V8 which has over 600 BHP now actually managed to get it cheaper than that but we'll get on to what I paid for it later in the video cuz I'm kind of thinking now it might not have been worth it but on First Impressions I some of you might think I'm mad but even on the list and I didn't think this car looked that bad it's had a front end knock but everything really from the wing backwards looks in half decent shape and for someone like me who doesn't really have any type of skill is more of a driveway mechanic that self tees himself I thought this could be an easy repair but oh is this going to be far from an easy repair the guy I bought this one was kind of like myself he was repairing cars on his driveway so looking at the photos of this car you can see well it needs a front end there's no Bonnet there's no bumper headlights and maybe a few coolers as well the driver side Wing looks repairable the passenger side Wing not so much it would need a new inner Wing which just requires a bit of welding and all of the airbags are blown including the dashboard and both of the curtain airbags so really looking at that damage we could probably repair this on a driveway with no real special tools required and have a decent M5 for a lot less than the normal price but as always when dealing with cars as I'm sure you'll know it's not as easy as that and in this specific case there's two reasons why it's not as easy as that and the first reason Hannah's going to explain and why is that the engine doesn't run yeah this is a non-runner because BMW decide to put their oil coolers at the very bottom at the front of the engine so if they're ever in any accident they get absolutely smashed to bits so this has dropped all its oil out and you don't need to be a genius to know what happens to an engine when it has no oil in it we've just got to hope it wasn't ran without it the oil cooler looks like it's just pulled out of the there's the top of the oil coer and there's the pipe it looks like it's kind of like I think it's definitely knackered I mean that is yeah that's definitely it's like pulled out I think you've got like a oil feed in here and then the oil will turn in there there's the auxiliary belt oh dear what's that oh is that a pulley there oh that ow that looks like a water pump oh my God there's so much brok in here oh even that's broken the um charge caller oh dear do we get Hannah's approval on the M5 I mean don't come for me but I don't like BMWs Lally this is a 4.4 l 8 twin turbo it can be like 1,000 horsepower and look at the interior four-wheel drive as well and you can make it into rear wheel drive it doesn't have a heated steering wheel it doesn't have a heated steering wheel no check out the key like me I never used to lock BMW and then when you drive on then you like it now the engine has to come out of the M5 anyway to do a certain repair on this but before I explain why we've got to try and get the car into neutral so we can push it inside the unit we got [Music] power got no power weirdly it seems like my jumper pack didn't work so I went and fetched a bigger one the batter's actually in the boot so we having to use the terminals which are underneath the Bonnet got 7.5 Vols so why is absolutely nothing but still nothing so the only other option was to put the jumper pack directly to the battery in the boot but we can't open the boot because you need electric to open the boot so we're having to climb through the back seats to gain access to it unless you guys know of an emergency release that I could have pulled to open the boot but I didn't know so we're crawling in the back red to Red if this don't work we have a problem you got a read in no nothing no so there's three lines just no reading at all what oh does that work yes we've got power we got power on we got power on it must just be really dead yeah our digital display okay so we got digital display oh nearly a full tank of fuel come on SO loads of faults can you put this in neutral I don't want to start it that's the thing do you know if I just pressed press to start engine press brake pedal I don't want to start the engine that's the thing there's no oil in it I don't think you can get it in neutral I can't even take the handbrake off I think what we've got to do is get underneath it there might be a notch in the gearbox I'm pretty sure there's going to be a notch in the gearbox we can work it into neutral but that doesn't solve the handbrake not coming off the back we're going to need power to get the handbrake off the backat oh we can open the boot we can open the boot now open the boot no no we can't well it's not looking good so far so I got the Jack out to see if we can find something on the bottom of the gearbox I've watched a video apparently all you need is a zip tie to do this let's see if that is true uh there's the Box here's the gear box okay so it's this that lever apparently you pull it down and then zip tie it to the prop shaft and that will put it in neutral I'm going to put you guys there let's see if I can do this this turned out to be way more difficult than it looks the prop shaft was in the way of this lever and I had to somehow bend the zip TI around to hook it over the lever which puts it into neutral I'm through I'm just going to get it after a bit of fiddling around I eventually got the zip TI through the little hole on the lever and it eventually could start to pull it tight in hopes that that will'll pull it in neutral aha okay I reckon if we pull that [Music] down oh a round two bigger zip tie I'm double zip tied holding that lever down if that don't do it I don't know what will front wheel moves back wheel no need to get the parking brake to the red to that one the button see here yes okay next step see if the handbrake will come off okay the handbrake doesn't like coming off coming to the think of it this is the only BMW that I remember having an electronic handbrake all of them have manual handbrakes I thought it was cool to have a manual handbrake but all of a sudden they decided it's not cool to have one and which means you can't move it when it's crashed so plan of action was to plug the Orel diagnostic into the car and then put the handbrake into a service mode which again didn't seem to work doesn't like sounds like a dog turn off why does it not turn off it says in press the brake pedal I'm pressing the brake y fixed it I can't believe that finally we got the hand breake off and the car was in neutral and we can now begin to get the BMW M5 into the unit which is getting me so excited to get started on it so the BMW M5 as is cost me 32,500 it's a category s which means structural damage it's A2 2019 and according to the seller this has only got 10,000 mil on it M5 competition with the same year the same spec but not crashed you're looking at about 63 to 65,000 so in my opinion I think that leaves you with around £10,000 give or take to make this thing worth it and get it back on the road and for it to be a cheap BMW M5 that was until the previous owner found this [Music] damage this is the damage which is going to cause hell there is a huge hole and big dent in the strut Tower which is where the suspension sits and for that reason we think the engine has to come out with the car being category s which means structural damage which it does have quite clearly I don't actually think any of the frame is bent I think it is all straight but we will have to get it checked out good way to see whether anything's obviously moved but the structure is to check these strut braces right here and well nothing has moved you can't see that the strut Towers moved back left right or Twisted in anyway the bolts look like they're in the same place and on this side yeah it's all the same on that side with this chassis legs this part looks okay that part looks like it's gone but we can get that all measured but I think this hole was caused by something piercing straight through the Bonnet there I don't think it's any sort of stress on the suspension that's caused it it looks like something has literally hit the Bonnet gone straight through it and Pierce that huge hole and the worst part about it I believe that strut Tower is made out of a special cast aluminium which needs to be bonded to the frame of the car this is a huge piece and a vital part of the engine and it actually goes all the way down there and further down the back as well and I don't think we will try but I don't think we'll actually be able to get to it and bond it and take it off and put a new one on without removing the whole engine because I don't think we've got enough room to play with here but if it's only that part to replace the front end and the airbags this could be a cheap repair but that's if the engine's okay the only positive to this is that if the engine's got to come out anyway to do the repair then if there is any damage to the engine then we can fix it whil it's out but that could get very expensive so I think think and I hope I'm right in saying this I want to get this engine running first before we start stripping it apart to see if it actually works and the way I'm going to do that is I want to bridge the oil line from here to here so that we're not going through the oil cooler which is obviously broken and then it should hold oil in the engine and fingers crossed it ticks over nicely here we go whilst I had the M5 up in the air I had a quick inspection to see if I can see any more damage but all was looking good so now I'm removing the hose out of one end of the oil cooler and then I can pull the old oil cooler away from the car then I've got this super long silicon hose which I'm going to use to connect one oil cooler hose to the other one doing the complete bypass of the front oil cooler obviously this is not a long-term fix but it should work to get the car started with the BMW being a newer car it doesn't have a dipstick so there's no way of telling how much oil is actually in the engine so what I'm going to do is drop what's left of the oil into my oil tub and then I'm going to refill it with the amount of oil that it needs well there's supposed to be 10 and 1/2 l in this engine and only well not even about 3 and 1/2 came out so I'm going to put this back in top it over some old oil or something like that we just want to see if it's running of course I'm going to replace the oil at some point but yeah it's not looking good at the minute the only good point you can take from this is that I didn't notice any metal shards or anything unusual in the oil that actually came out before I try and start it as well I'm going to remove this induction pipe just to check there's no plastic or any debris that's worked its way down and into the turbos because if I start it and there is then we could cause some serious damage [Music] there but all is looking good and there's no play in the turbo either let's hope it stays that way right now I don't know I don't know whether this has a pyro fuse in it which is the fuse which blows off um when the airbags go I've had a look in the back here and it looks like something is missing from this bit here but other than that I can't see that it actually has one so I think it's just going to be trial and error oh how you feeling positive no I feel a bit funner I just hope it doesn't sound a bit Yeah if it starts sounding crazy I'll just straight turn it off that's a good idea mate just double check the oil now cuz if some if it's assistance if you require support with your vehicle due to a please hold the line customer services and select customer menu how do I put the phone down I don't know if you been are you in any trouble yes I've got the front end's hanging off the car okay here we go just going to send it did that even crank no that WIP this it don't want to go oh oh I know I know I know I've still got it in neutral underneath ah aha okay is that yep so it should be in park I think this is it now it should be in Park oh this is the disorder and this is what risk is about I'm going to I'm going to do it okay I'm going to do [Music] it still no look the only thing I could think of is that if this car has a parro Technics fuse on which would blown right is that a pyro fuse but to be honest I couldn't really see anything obvious if this don't do it then power ain't the issue it's a power so we just resorted and using a bigger jumper pack in hopes that it just didn't have enough power to start come on it doesn't want to do it it's just nothing I've got my foot as hard as I can on the brakes I'm pressing the start stop button [Music] literally nothing is happening so still no luck so there must be a pyro fuse stopping this pyro fuse has been found it's definitely what by the looks of it you got your two cables there that looks very air baggy there so ah yes there it is it's down the bottom so what is that bridging and the only way to find out that was to start stripping it apart then it could work out exactly what was going on down there right here's the Pyro fuse just there and from what I've worked out I think these two uh have got something to do with the engine start so one could go to the starter motor um I don't know what the other one does I've never seen two of them go to the parro fuse but I would assume if that fuse is broken underneath then the power which is going Direct directly to here so the power the power goes from the battery directly onto this line here and this is all your body electronics and everything there and this is what starts it so this is what starts it so I think if I bridge the gap between that to there we should get a start well at least an attempt if this is not the sketchiest thing you've ever seen then you've seen some sketchy stuff because we are connected there to there to there hopefully saying to reckon it's going to do it there's only one way to find out there is only one way to find out and that means just start it is it okay is it okay there we go ignition ignition ignition [Music] it cranks then didn't it I lost power okay I'm a bit nervous now because that did not sound good ignition come on Beamer oh cut it cut it what's happened I just got really worried cuz that oil cool pipe that silicon one that you put on yeah that silicon or cool pipe went from being like this go in do it again what do you not you not think it's going to blow off that poip though I'm not going to stand near it I get okay ready no no no it's done it definitely ran at least we know it's not seized up I don't know why it won't run consistently I know Energy prices have gone up but for a new battery for the BMW M5 it was £250 it is massive but 250 quid but I'm hoping that is going to solve the issue on our engine starting problem we managed to get the engine started in the last video oh what's happened but it only ran for a couple of seconds the oil cooler at the front of the engine has taken a beat in so instead we've took it off and bridged the two oil lines with this silicon pipe here the engine has to come out anyway to fix this damage but I want to be 100% sure the engine is okay before I pull it out so this well part of this is what I believe to be the issue on why it's not starting which is good news and bad news really so 12 VTS go from the battery along here and then all of this goes to the body electrics which power the car and everything like that but don't have anything to do with the engine this is the part that has the stuff to do with the engine I think one goes to the alternator and one goes to the starter motor underneath is this baby right here which is the Pyro fuse and this fuse Bridges the gap between the body electrics and the electrics on the starter motor and alternator and if this is broke then we've found our issue and would you look at that incredible absolute scenes and because these two are not joining that's why the car doesn't start but this being broken is actually quite good news because that means that more than likely the engine cut out because of this when the airbag blown so the oil was no the engine cut out when the airbags blew which means that when the oil fell out the engine was turned off which fingers crossed means that the engine is okay but I still want to get it started another funny thing is if you ask BMW for a pyro fuse for the BMW M5 they'll try and sell you this whole thing they won't actually sell you this little pyro fuse which is all that you need but luckily these actually have a separate part number on and if you Google it you will find them on eBay for $21.99 so that should be a right good saving so what I'm going to do now is put everything back in with the new battery and bridge the gap myself with some jump leads until the new parro fuse arrives there you can see the jump lead and that's going directly to the battery now which should give us enough power safety out of 10 solid seven yeah it's ballooning got run it I didn't say stop we're looking good y bit of a [Music] rest I think that's sounding all right no rattles no rattles everything got power supply we've got like check engine then there's another one oh it's flashing neutral cuz we still got the thing in yeah let's get contact BMW no BMW again drivve train open Bonnet even got a bonnet every light I well that is that is sounding good come on so the engine seems okay despite all the damage so we can now start on trying to take this thing out to fix the damage that's on the strut Tower but there's another worry we're not even sure that the frame is straight on this car yet but we should be able to take a look at all the frame rails and everything when this is out but do you think do you think that I don't think much to be honest we've got a few issues here I have never taken a BMW M5 engine out ever before we think that this engine could go down I think some people have the technique of the engine can go out this way but we thinking of going down so undering the top mount bolts and dropping the whole thing on the subframe down and then raising the car up which should leave the engine on the floor but of course there's a lot of stuff to disconnect before that um this is going to be one hell of a learning curve start the timer to start with we've got to make sure that nothing is connecting the engine to the rest of the body of the car starting with all the electrics on the M5 there's two ecus one on the left side of the engine and one on the right I assume On's for the engine and ones for the gearbox once I got the ecus out I can start removing the only airbox that's left on the car which just so happens to be damaged as well and then work away on disconnecting the rest of the cables from the body of the car and then next up is the fuel lines remember they're connected from the fuel tank and then running up to the engine so these need to come apart nice no pressure in it that one's probably not supposed to look like that no that looks mangled there look at that bit yeah we think we have it all clear from the top of the engine so far and now it's time to get the M5 in the air so we can start disconnecting everything underneath there's a lot of plastic tray to remove first and once we've got past the plastic trays there's strut braces so me I'm teamed up to start removing this Square brace oh yeah just go back yes so the exhaust is out and with the exhaust out that now gives us access to this heat shield which once we remove it we'll be able to get the prop shaft which connects the gearbox to the rear diff then we've got the big old prop shaft which sends the power down here into the rear diff the prop shaft is connected to the gearbox using around four bolts so Chris got to it and started removing those bolts manest 55 mil knot that's on the diff of these can you get it off with any leverage with like no only that is it 50 or is it 55 is it 55 come you WR [Music] show me what you used I'll show you what I used turns out we needed more leverage and this was a point where we wasn't sure whether it was a left hand thread or right hand thread yes did that do it and we didn't want to break anything so we chose another option after this so under this support bolts here which set up there um and the only option we can see is well you could just leave this hanging which ain't ideal but um yeah it's that bolt there which is a bit of a w it's an absolute fat to get out as I didn't want to risk breaking anything with that prop shaft knut because we was unsure whether it had a left hand Fred or a right hand Fred we decided just to leave the prop shaft hanging next up to remove was the steering WRA which is done with a little bolt you can just see here so I equipped myself with loads of extensions and a ratchet and undid the bolt connecting the steering rack to the rest of the car after that done it's all the wires which are going to the wheel you'll have an ABS sensor a brake pad wear sensor and a headlight level sensor all of these have got to be disconnected because the suspension the brake disc and everything is all coming down with the engine then I'm going to wedge the brake pedal with a broom so that when I disconnect the brake line all of the brake fluid shouldn't just fly out everywhere you might get a few drips here and there but it's better than it all going all over the floor and one final thing to undo is the top Wishbone knuckle because that will be staying on the [Music] car then finally I can undo the bolts holding the gearbox mount to the frame of the car and then loosen off the subframe bolts connecting it to the frame of the car and the last thing holding the engine in place are the top mount bolts on the suspension but we've got to be very careful now because at any point this engine could drop so out comes the engine crane [Music] what sh oh you let that down there be fine let's pull it back yeah just pull it back I watch it cuz I'm on the jacket got that one dashed in there okay is that fully off yeah fully off okay I'll come do the Jack down now we just got to make sure we disconnected everything oh yeah go slow do it slow do it slow [Music] okay catching this side a bit we're catching [Music] up that counts us out yeah we just got a BMW M5 engine out that was the easy part look at the size of this thing and to be honest it wasn't the hardest to even remove never did I think when I took on my first rebuild project the Audi TT that 3 years later I'd be pulling an engine out my BMW M5 this thing is absolutely massive I don't think it's coming across on camera how big this thing is but the gearbox is huge and the engine as well the big V8 of course with two turbos on top which has everything attached to it it's absolutely massive and the good news about this being out like this is that we can inspect the whole engine to check for any damage and there is a lot more than I originally thought and I never would have seen it inside the car first thing I noticed when we was taking it out is that we do have a damaged Inlet manifold all this plastic is broken and this goes all the way back there and it would have been a nightmare to change inside the car I also have a broken charge cooler here which cools the air going into the turbos and that is broken right there I thought this one was going to be okay but check this out I just seen that this plug was disconnected for no reason and this bracket here when you actually move it out the way it's left a little tiny hole there in the charge cooler which would cause an air leak going all the way into the turbo so that one's going to be changed as well and possibly we could look at upgrades whilst we're here and then of course we have a lot of pipes and sensors and wiring all over the place and if I'm honest I have no idea what a lot of them do so I'm going to have to figure that out as I go along I think there's a water pump which is sort of the pulley hanging off as well but yeah we're going to have to look into that but despite all the damage that's on the engine just imagine how easy it's going to be to do all the upgrades to it changing the suspension will literally take 2 seconds it's right there but that's not the reason why we've taken the engine out we need to fix the frame damage and inspect to see if there's any more unexpected frame damage so first things first I'm going to get measuring the chassis to see if anything is drastically out so out comes the tape measure all I'm doing here is measuring from loads of fixed points on the car to other points on the chassis which possibly could have B been pushed in or Twisted I know it's not the most accurate of readings but it should be able to tell me whether something is drastically [Music] out so we might have a small problem in fact about a CM worth of problem so check this out I'm going to be measuring the chassis from like a fix Point like here which that's not going to move That's Not Bent if I go from that bolt just there and go go directly to the corner of here just check this out 117 CM we've got from that bolt there to there this is not like an exact precise measurement but it's round about then I'm going to go from that bolt there to the same corner on here and I've got well about6 maybe just over 116 CM so it looks that rail here looks like it could have moved maybe half a centimeter or a centimeter that way I know my measurement isn't 100% accurate but there's only one way to really confirm whether this is out or not and that is to fit a brand new secondhand crash bar and well oil cooler I'll let you know how much I paid for this all at the end maybe of this video because I got it sort of with a bundle but if this doesn't slide in we've got issues and we need to do some bending well that's good enough for me it goes in it's straight if it was out it was out by like half a centimeter which is not going to impact anything I mean if that goes in that is straight I know well let me know in the comments section below I know a few of you might not like that or not but the thing is if this goes on a jig it's only going to do the same thing it's just going to pull it out a tiny bit but that is out by minuscule probably like a minuscule bit B I've got to pull that back out now another thing to look at are these weak points BMW put in the frame rails these are there so if you have an accident which is a front end accident the frame rails can crush inwards and fold easily and if they didn't have them you might have a frame ra ended up inside the car but none of the weak points look like they're cracked bent or twist did in any way so in my opinion I think we're good to go but that strut Tower is far from good to go I need to take the front Wing off and everything surrounding that strut Tower so we can get a better look at it to see if there's any more damage to it there is a bolt on the inside of the wing here and I cannot open the door all the way to get to it so I've actually got to lower the car down and somehow move it forward so I can open the door to get the bolt at the back of the wing we ended up putting Two Jacks on the frame rails and then pushing the car forward so it could actually open the door to get to that bolt and there it is with super dramatic music I could undo the final bolt to get the front Wing off and once that Wing was off we could push the BMW back into the ramp and I could start stripping off all the wiring and the hoses which surrounded that strut Tower but the more I take off the more I have in the back of my mind how on Earth is this thing going to go back [Music] together and there it is one exposed strut Tower but oh is this going to be far from an easy job well I knew this was going to be difficult but this is definitely going to be one of the biggest challenges yet I've got the strut tower all exposed now there's the damage it's pretty clear that we can't get away with' just repairing that with a load of fiberglass or something along those lines but this strut Tower is huge look how far down it goes you can see where the panel finishes because of all this seam sealer here between the two panels and not only that it comes down here seam sealer goes all across there and because this is cast aluminium it's not welded it's all riveted on with these Special rivets here and I assume it's bonded on as well and not only along here is it all uh bonded on and riveted also in the wheel Arch look how many rivets there are holding this thing to the car I guess there's got to be a lot of rivets anyway because you imagine the force of the suspension pushing that thing up I have got to get this right else this whole car could just well it would be as shambles I can't get it 1 mm out because the suspension would be all over the place and get this BMW are allowed to tell me the parts and they're a lot cheaper than you might think but just like Porsche they're not allowed to tell me how they're fitted because it's a structural Bond so it looks as if I have got a right Challenge on my hands first of all we know none of this strut tower has moved this has just been an impact Mart here from something that has gone straight through the Bonnet and into that strut Tower and also this strut Tower is made out of aluminium and it's super soft so it's literally absorbed all the impact and all of these bolts on the strut brace and everything still line up nothing is moved down here and everything is all in place this part on the other hand is not so straight and this front part is all still and it can be removed in sections this is a section that's a section this is a section back here and then this whole strrip Tower is all one piece and BMW will sellers all of these sections and you'll be so surprised at the price but before we get onto the price we need to start removing the damag panels starting off with this section here we've got to remove all the seam sealer that covers over all the joins between the panels which should give us access to whatever's holding this thing on and that are these weird onetime used bolts that BMW used and I only found one logical way of removing them angle grinding a slot in the middle and then using a screwdriver to loosen them up [Music] and eventually it did actually work and check these out they're almost self tapping screws I think these screws are used alongside panel Bond as well to hold that front panel to the chassis [Music] leg once I got the seam sealer off the top of the panel it revealed a couple of spot welds so out came the angle grinder and of course the spot weld drill real but wait there's more holding it on this steel panel is joined to the aluminum strut Tower using rivets at the bottom here you can see four of them and there's going to be plenty of them in this video and the best way I found to remove the rivets was to drill off the head get a punch and knock them through the other side and finally we should be able to get it [Music] off so this section is is now off which is supposed to look like this section right here and the next step would be to take this strrip Tower off but before we do that and we start cracking on with it there's a few things we need to clear up number one a few of you said why don't I just patch in a separate piece of metal here because nothing has moved and well that just seems the most logical thing to do we can't do that because this strut Tower is cast aluminium it's all one piece and it's part of the structure so cut putting a part out of another strut Tower to weld into this one would kind of compromise the structural Integrity of the car and I'd probably make a mess out of it as well and number two how can I be 100% sure that everything is straight without using a jig welcome to Matt Armstrong's School of physics we have here a tram gauge and this is actually what they use at body shops and it's even what BMW use to measure frame this thing was £600 but it could save the day we can use this now instead of a tape measure to get a super precise measurement now although BMW can't help us with any Workshop manuals or how to do anything a lot of you guys have been doing my detective work and have actually sent me some of the measurements of what the M5 should be I've just got to measure my M5 to make sure it matches the correct measurements bang on in the middle bang on theid SP upside down should it be8 800 you can see here 854 oh there we go a to a which is the point a to a 854 that is straight it's literally bang on there's not even a mill it's not even a mill out but that's not all there's a bunch of other measurements that we need to do and it's just good peace of mind to know that this thing is nice and straight before we start dismantling the rest of the panels let's see if the strut Towers moved that Trum gauge is turning out to be a brilliant tool now surprisingly this is not a genuine BMW toour this might shock you all but but this is actually made out of and you guys could do this at home all you've got to do is go to my dad's house and take part of his garage roof off and this is going to be our jig as sort the other day me and my dad engineered this amazing master piece we designed this thing to bolt to the subframe and then fix on certain points in the car to make sure when we pull the strut Tower off we put it back in in the exact same place we want to be 100% confident that this shop go goes in the same way it came out now although we have the actual measurements of where the shock should be we just wanted to make this idiot proof as you guys know I'm no mechanic and I'm far from a body shop guy so we just taken these extra steps but this tool will make it almost impossible to put it in the wrong place I guess we're about to find out whether we do need a professional to do this job or can I do it in my unit wait another away with our special jig tool installed me and my dad cracked away at starting to remove this strut Tower as I mentioned this is aluminium and it's not welded in place it uses panel Bond and a whole lot of [Music] rivets to break the panel Bond we're using a lot of heat and we're using the same technique to remove the rivets as I did on the front panel can't wait another day we you so far away I wish must [Music] be hours of drilling out rivets and we're just about ready now to start trying to separate the shock Tower the strut Tower from the rest of the car so this little piece here we were going to replace and I've actually bought a piece here which uh we'll get onto the prices of everything here this was so so cheap so I thought I might as well buy it just in case but I think we might actually get away with using that and it's going to give us another point of reference when we put the strut tower on but now all these rivet holes are drilled out if you can have a look here all these rivet holes are drilled out the next thing holding this on is all panel Bond so we've just got to heat everything up with a blowtorch and hopefully that will unstick the panel Bond and then we can knock it off the car good news so let's see how this goes we cannot damage anything and we cannot move this in the wrong place y there it is really easy Bol on Bol off [Music] job so remember these weird sort of like bolts were in these holes before and when you order the replacement of them they don't replace them with them these are like self-tapping ones but these are the ones they replac with and they're like weird alen key head ones if this keeps going well I'm not even going to say it I think let's just carry on surprisingly everything was going smoothly which is strange for for such a big job I'm just going to pop in them few screws and measure it to make sure it's bang the device is on it's all in line and you can see here you see that the fitment on the top there can you see that you see that see that this is absolutely bang on I can't believe it is working we've just got to do it for real now the second time we put in those bolts next thing take it all off add the bond drill the holes for the rivets and we're home run although this job so far was time consuming it surprisingly wasn't that bad but I really didn't want to speak too soon all I'm doing now is using the holes that are left on the car as guides to drill the holes in the strut tower for all the new rivets to go into and believe me there is a lot of them this thing takes a lot of force with the rivet holes drilled and now I need to remove the strut Tower and because I needed to cut this panel in order to fit the new strut Tower Tower I'm going to have to replace it I've just got to be careful I don't set fire to myself and not only is it spot welded I found that is panel bonded as well BMW really didn't want this thing to move but eventually it came out this is the cleaner that BMW sent me to do the job it's just labeled R1 and I've just got to use this to clean up the surfaces of where the strut Tower will meet the rest of the car and of course use it on the strut Tower as well because after that I'm going to be using this the panel Bond I had to order this from BMW and it's a two-piece mixture in one tube you put this special nozzle at the end and when you use your gun to push it out it mixes both the mixtures together now all I've got to do is apply it in as even fashion as I can and then it's on with the strut Tower and I wasn't quite sure how long I had before that panel Bond set so I was really rushing to get all the nuts and bolts in and start getting those rivets in at this [Music] point okay we are on with panel Bond there is no going back now but that's pretty solid we've got the sort of self-tapping screws in we've got the bolts lined up we think everything is all in place and ready to go all the holes are all lined up ready for the rivets these are the rivets that BMW sent me uh they're the ones that they used I'm not sure they're exactly the same ones that they use when they actually put the car together I think these are ones used for a repair the other ones are done by a machine I'd assume so I've got to get these on next and these are not going to be easy to push in and to do it I've got option number one which is a rivet gun there I think that might have enough power to do it and if that doesn't have enough power to do it then we've got option number two which is the manual big beefy rivet gun but we're running out of time I've got to start doing it before all that panel bonding set so let's do this come on oh oh my God that is insanely hard oh oh oh my God six in about 20 mes ago with some questionable nois is I cracked on with putting all the rivets in I decided to use the manual gun as it was much better at snapping off the end of the rivets than the electric gun with the strut Tower in place the next thing to go on is this front panel and to make sure this was absolutely spot on I decided to put the slam panel on that I bought as well that way I can be a little bit more confident that I'm getting it in the exact same spot now this front panel is made out of steel but it's not connected to the chassis leg by welding it it's simply a few screws and panel B and there we go the bolt holes are pretty much bang on in the center of the slam panel and just to be sure of course we can use the tram gauge to measure it now where this Steel part meets the aluminum part of course it uses rivets and panel Bond on top so I've got to drill out the holes for the rivets and then remove the panel again clean up all the surfaces where it's going to meet pop on the panel [Music] Bond and then reinstall the front panel this time for real the screws at the bottom of the panel I think just help the panel bond to each panel and then it's in with the rivets on top well that went surprisingly better than I thought and there's one final piece to go in which goes in a little bit different than the rest everything is all connected up we've got the front end the slam panel on just to make sure everything all lines up everything is is all riveted and there's a lot of bond there which is still a little bit sticky but there's one final bit here to go in which is steel so it's a little bit different how these aluminium Parts go in I'm still so surprised that that is all that holds on this part which just seems so sketchy but I mean I guess that's how BMW do it so this is steel on steel now so this is going to be spot welded spot welded on here as well and then r Ed along the bottom here because it's joined to an aluminium part at the bottom so we can't work steel to aluminium and then again on the steel to aluminium join we've got to put a load of rivets down there so God help me with that you guys seem to be getting the picture here and I seem to be getting the gist of things now most of these panels are just panel bonded and then riveted together unless it's steel un steel and then it's spot welded so after I've lined it all up drilled all the holes I can clean it up again using the special BMW cleaner and now I can use the special BMW panel Bond and I have to use a different panel Bond on this section here because it's Steel on steel so BMW sent a different one for this panel and then it's back on with the panel with a bit of world through primer on it ready for it to be spot welded to the rest of the car what a job this thing [Music] is so my dad comes through with the spot welds and with the belt sander we can sand them all down to make them nice and flush and get them looking as neat as possible and would you know it there's a front end almost complete I literally cannot believe we've managed to pull this off I just really hope I've done this thing right well I dare to say it we're not finished yet but it was kind of easier than I thought providing everything lines up these bits on on top is where all the wing mounts to so we'll find out whether they all line up they should because we've done this would have took a lot less of a time if we've done it before but because we haven't done it before I was just a bit making sure that I was doing it right so hopefully it's all good all we've got to do now is Seal up all the gaps like over here uh where BMW have like sealed up all the gaps here with this sealer I'm going to try and get it as close to what they do it which is probably going to be difficult so all over this this has all got to be sealed up and then once it's sealed it can then be painted and that's what Chris is here to do professional painter yeah hopefully you don't get paint all around the unit how do they actually get it like that I think it's going to be a machine that does it but watched videos go for a nice wide nozzle squash it and Splurge yeah it's they use like a it's like a flat nozzle and then they go like lit it's it's like that before I get the sealer out I've got got to remove the front panel and get everything nice and cleaned up ready for it to be primed and painted but the primer and the paint go over the sealer and this is the sealer here again another special BMW one but all of this was actually quite cheap and here I go at an attempt to try and make this look as OEM as possible and if I'm completely honest I'm absolutely crap at doing this I'm I'm well and truly ashamed of it but hey it's doing its job and at least to give it a go that really hasn't gone as well as I first planned out it to go and I'm not going to show you guys cuz you're probably going to laugh at me so instead I'm going to mask it all up get it painted and then I will show you guys cuz it might look a little bit better with some paint on [Music] it I saw know was a child back in the [Music] yeah right before I show you it and it's not that bad let's go through prices so the paint and everything cost £70 and believe it or not all the parts that we've used so far on the car so all the structural parts and the panels and the silicon and the sealant and everything else from BMW only cost £300 so far which I think is an absolute bargain so so far we're onto a winner I also need to say that this was cheap because we need to do a shout out to sitner sit sitner we a shout out to sitner because I actually have a discount code there Matt 15 I put a link in the description box below you can get discounted genuine BMW parts with the link in the description at sitner leester cheers boys now bear in mind most of this well all of this is covered over by engine Plastics here's a picture of an engine bay right now so you're not really going to be able to see it but let me just show you it here we are now first off the paint is perfect it matches so well although this side is really clean and sparkly and that side is really dusty and dull the paint 10 out of 10 I think the repair as well 10 out of 10 but my ceiling is well there's no other way to put it it's crap but on the other side it's doing its job it's sealing the panels where they join up so it won't get any water in in between them and start to rust or corrode even though it is Aluminum but this part is steel but other than that I think we've done a pretty good job and what's even better than that when we measure all the points up like we did before everything is bang on we can measure from that strp Tower to that strp Tower and we can get the measurement from here to here and it is all absolutely spot on so the next step is start reassembling that engine and getting to the damage on that and then we can start putting it all back together and it looks as if I've got a hell of a job with this so This monstrosity of a thing connected to the gearbox is a 4 L twin turbo V8 engine and I'm sure you'll all agree it's pretty ugly there's so many cables wires and hoses is and half of them I have no idea what they do a lot of stuff is broken but what we're going to do before I try and move this into the engine I've got to start repairing all the bits which are broken like the inlet manifold here which is a plastic Inlet manifold I think here we have the water pump which the pulley is broken on as well and if I put this engine in before doing all of that it's just going to cause me a,0 And1 problems trying to do it inside the engine so I guess I better get started here is the inlet manifold and this is the last place that Air's got to go through before it goes into the combustion chamber and this is pretty badly damaged and that will be causing some serious air leaks not to mention if it sucks up any plastic it would cause some pretty catastrophic engine failure there's two of these Inlet manifolds on this engine one for the four cylinders on the left hand side and another one for the four cylinders on the right hand side of the engine if I tried to remove the inlet manifold whilst it was in the car you can imagine how much of a nightmare it would have been and I actually seemed to have got lucky in the previous episodes when I started the car because there's some huge bits of plastic in there but I've just about got all the bolts undone now and here's the new one we'll get on to prices later but for a bit of plastic it was surprisingly expensive from BMW now I've just got to switch over the sensor from the old one onto the new one and then I can Bolt the throttle body to the new Inlet manifold this is what controls the airflow going into the engine and is electronically controlled by the throttle pedal and once I've got that bolted to the inlet manifold I Can Begin refitting it to the [Music] engine and now I'm taking off the other charge cooler so it can access the pulley of the water pump here which seems to have taken a fair bit of beating from the crash again the water pump does what it says on the tin it pumps the water through the engine now I've never worked on a BMW M5 before so really I'm just learning as I go along and the only thing I've learned so far is that this engine is a nightmare to work on you have to remove so many different things to get to that one thing you need to get to water pump is off this just looks like a lot of stress and here's the water pump and we're only changing this just because of that plastic pulley there thermostat housing is on the end here's the new one which is brand spanker from BMW and that's it I can't imagine there be any reason why you'd ever change this in a car it doesn't look like a serviceable thing but let's get this on and I think the rest we should be able to do in the car before some compulsory upgrades you're right I will be all right after I've got the engine back in the car and it's running again before I switch the water pumps over I'm going to transfer the thermostat housing with the thermostat in onto the new water pump and then start attaching it to the engine not forgetting all the pipes hoses and wires which are all connected to it now for the water pump to work it needs a belt to turn the pulley and the belt on this M5 well it's seen better days and it looks like it's been flicked off during the accident but here we have a brand new belt from BMW I've just got to figure out which way it Roots around all of the pulley this pulley right here that I'm turning is the tensioner and by turning it I can get the old belt out the way and to put the new one on I'll turn the tensioner again and then wedge a little center punch in the hole to keep the tensioner from well tensioning then I just hope that I rooted this belt the right way because the only thing that seems strange is that the belt is ribbed but the pulley on the water pump is super smooth so it must just grip it right I'm calling it I think that this is just about ready to go back in there is still a few damaged Parts on it the charge coolers are missing but all of the damaged stuff and the charge coolers and everything I should be able to get to with the engine in and it actually probably be easier because I won't be kneeling on the floor doing it but not before doing some vital upgrades most of these BMWs have adaptive suspension so when you press the sport button the Rod Heart gets stiffer when you press Comfort it goes softer and that's all done with this damper and the control which kind of all plugs in there and I kind of wanted to keep that if I changed the full suspension unit I would lose it you'd end up with a warning light on the dashboard but I did want to be able to change the ride High which is exactly what these things are going to do KW adjustable Springs it would be stupid not to do this whilst it's out this is probably going to be the easiest suspension install that I've ever done I don't even have to detach it from the wheel hub I've got my spring compressor on because I don't fancy losing my teeth when I disconnect the top mount and once I disconnect the top mount I can pull it off the strut along with the spring and the compressor how easy was that and to fit these KW Springs you're supposed to press off the bottom spring seat and I don't have a press so a hammer was the next best thing but it did the job and once that's off I can clean up the stro and then press on the new KW adjustable Spring Mount at the bottom bump stop and dust cover spring top mount bearing and then the top mount KW suspension on next modific which is not needed but is almost a necessity whilst we've got it out the down pipes we're going to be changing these for better ones and shout out to evolve Automotive for sorting us out with these cuz these are going to be these are going to make it from a 9 out of 10 to a 10 out of 10 they're countless down pipes and I believe as well OPF delete so on European cars you've got these horrible OPF filters which make the car just like a do you help yeah what did you say they make it sound rubbish but these are going to fix that for me okay let's put this on not only should the M5 sound better with these down pipes it's going to be helping the engine to breathe better which in turn increases the performance and these cars ain't slow to start off with as usual to get the down pipes off isn't as straightforward as we thought there's loads of heat shields in the way along with wires and a bunch of sensors with it being a va8 there's two down pipes so that means there's two lambar sensors for each downpipe I've got to remove all of these so I can take the heat shield off to access both of the Town pipes and now it's just a case of removing all the bolts and mounts so it can detach the down pipes from the engine and on goes the new freshh evolve down pipes this job wasn't the easiest doing it with the engine off the car so I could only imagine what this would have been like if the engine was in so we should be saving a lot of time [Music] here that took a lot longer than first anticipated and this would have been horrible to do with the engine in the car the only thing that we are kind of stuck with now are these probes here which sat in the opfs and and there must have been some sort of OPF sensors because they are electrically plugged in here but we don't have any opfs anymore so I can only assume that this has got to be coded off the car but luckily we've got malib performance for that so we should be able to get it tuned instantly but it'll be interesting to see what happens when we run it without these Ops sensors in for now I think we're about ready to get the engine in first step is to get the engine and gearbox into position and with three of us it shouldn't be too hard to push it into place okay big V8 engine is now pretty much lined up to go in I really hope that I remembered to plug everything in and now I've just got to slowly lower the car down and I'm hopefully going to get a few bolts in the top of the strut here through uh the strut Tower which we replaced and then the rest well I think oh God I hope I'm just going to have to wing it I can't really remember much but I did take a lot of photos I'm just worried about where that one went but I guess we'll find out so I'm on my own for this job but that shouldn't be an issue because all I've got to do is lower the ramp into place and if I can get one bolt to hold the subframe to the car then I should be able to line everything up off that and I actually managed to do it but I still haven't got the gearbox mounts in it's just being held up with this huge Jack so I'm going to crawl under the car and line up all the bolts and get them in to hold the gearbox to the frame of it and now the engine is fully supported to the car so that means it can remove the engine mount and the car can go in the air and as I can get underneath the car now and can tighten up all the subframe bolts and then start on the electrical connections like the ground wire for the gearbox here then connecting the prop shaft up to the gearbox there's three bolts which hold that in and then there's two supporting bolts which hold the prop shaft to the car and it's starting to come together there's one last thing though the steering rack I've got to connect that to the steering column coming out of the car and this job is a bit of a faf the steering rack pushes into the steering column and then there's one bolt which pinches it and holds it in place and I just about got there with a bit of a squeeze now it's onto the top of the engine which is all of the wiring and oh my days there is a lot of wiring and a lot of plugs which need to be connected but luckily on these new cars you can only connect them one way so it's pretty easy to work out whether you've missed one out and it's almost impossible to put a plug in the wrong connector and I think I've just about put all the electrical connectors in it's time to connect up the fuel lines we've got a fuel feed and a fuel return and then the coolant reservoir can go back onto the top of the engine and then last but not least it's time to connect up all the suspension parts Parts including the brake lines because the calipers came off with a subframe and that should just about do it hopefully the engine is in either I'm getting a bit better at this mechanic stuff or that actually wasn't too bad it looks an absolute mess and I'm in a bit of a predicament at the minute because the charge call is they're broken I've got them over here so this is broken you can see it's snapped off there the other one's got a hole in it but they haven't arrived yet but I'm desperate to find out whether this thing starts and also to hear those down pipes with the exhaust off cuz you just know it's going to be so loud and I know what you're all thinking you're probably thinking don't start it but I kind of want to start it uh I think I'm going to start it just to be a little bit safer I installed both of the old charge callers even though they did have damage to them but this should stop the car having a major air leak and with them both installed I can connect the battery up works and we'll see whether this engine starts off right this is really going to absolutely Bob itself there's no GPS there's no coant I hope I don't regret this okay he it's so loud oh my God W oh my God that is so loud belt looks good looks good rest time as well that is insanely loud that's mental that is ridiculous that that was a first well almost first crank wo okay we actually did something we took an engine out put it back in we actually fix something I think may we we we definitely progressed now because we've got an engine which running a fixed uh strut Tower the belt seem to have stayed on good news progression at its finest although we still got the rear springs to install but let's have a price update on how much it's cost to get to this point the intake manifold 622 and it was plastic then we move on to the water a pump which cost me £31 fan belt 53 bringing the total repair bill so far to £ 1,346 but that's without the upgrade parts right here we go one is it going to be in the center two is it going to hold the weight of the car if we can drive this outside after this then we've performed Miracles bit of play on three fingers four fingers a bit too much this is the accurate finger test three three with a bit of Play Let me just double check oh my God I think it's like three with a bit of play well we're calling to my fingers this is bang on I think so just need it all tracking up so so far it seems the new strut Tower was a success all seems to be in the right place but I was dying to see if the M5 went in gear and I could drive it out the unit every time we videos me we're bodging some if the M5 managed to drive out with its own power we can definitely say we've made some improvement here we go but I think I was speaking a little too soon this is how much can you take off a BMW M5 and still drive it right here we go oh I've got no brakes I've got no brakes at all right now although the car would start I couldn't get it to go in gear it wouldn't come out of [Music] park um it says to engage gear press break so it sounds like the break engagement yeah but it's weird cuz it let me start it cuz you can't start it without putting your foot on the brake we think I can't get it in gear because the brakes aren't bled correctly the the pedal is pushing all the way to the floor so it's probably not thinking that I'm pushing The Brak and put it in gear so we're going to try and bleed the brakes and then give it another go and and I'm going to check all the connections underneath while I'm there obviously the front brakes came off when I disconnected the subframe and it must have lost a lot of brake fluid when I did that so we're going the old school way first of ble in the brakes where I'm going to sit in the car pump the brake pedal whilst my dad opens the bleed nipples and gets any air out of the braking system recycle to start we're only doing the front brakes because they're the ones that came off let's see if that [Music] works despite as bleeding the brakes has still had no brake pedal it was pushing all the way to the floor and I still couldn't get it in gear this is very new and again probably over engineered this is literally like so normally on a brake system you'd have four brake lines uh coming out the master cylinder one going to the front right front left back and the other back as well but this one has six there's two yeah there's two extra brake lines which are going down and into this ABS module here and it seems all the air in the braking system is ending up in these brake lines here which are going into that ABS module and it seems the only way to bleed that is to plug in a computer I don't know whether mine will do it the alel will do it they use something called Isa but I'm going to see if that computer would do it and it would like self bleed almost I think so going to give that a go but if we can't bleed the brakes we can't put it in gear because it seems that the brake pedal is on a pressure sensor so unless you've got pressure on the brakes it won't recognize that your foots on the brakes to put it in gear this is well the is stupid once i' logged onto the autel I can see a procedure for bleeding the brakes which is all linked up to the ABS module which seems to be that little computer sitting underneath the car so I'm going to see if I can follow the instructions on the autel to see if can get a brake pedal after that say when okay continue is it so this thing is doing something whilst fluid is being is it being pumped out no when it makes that other noise we had to follow the steps on the computer and it seems as if it was bleeding the brakes using that ABS module underneath the car doing corner by Corner we might have S it but I might be speaking too soon seems weird but it launches it out doesn't it now it said on the computer that we're supposed to have pressure going into the master cylinder so we used this pump and then almost plunged the hole as of course we didn't have the right kit for it but we'll soon find out whether that work completed press it yeah to the floor you're joking no really yeah no way the Flor really yeah what [Music] the what on H what the hell wow brilliant so me and my dad did the procedure over and over again I think we did it four times in fact just to try and get as much air out of the system as possible and we got to the point where there was not one single air bubble coming out of the calipers but still nothing like nothing the brake pedal was pushing all the way to the floor in the end we gave up on the brakes and then begin to think it wasn't going in gear because it thinks the Bonnet is open but we plugged in the new sensors for the Bonnet latch and tricked it to thinking the Bonnet was closed but it seems it still didn't work we still cannot get get any form of brake pedal we've done the procedure many times we've done as you would normally bleed the brakes many times over and all of this is linked to not being able to put it in gear because we've got no brake pressure on the brake so we're picking up where we left off from this time we have an actual vacuum thing this is just going to pump pressure into the master cylinder here giving the whole system some pressure which is I think what we needed last time and then we're going to do the same proc procedure with the AEL and do it corner by corner and hopefully after that we can get a brake pedal whether this is going to work or not I'm a little bit skeptical it let's see we're starting off with the rear left caliper as it states on the diagnostic tool and the pressure bleeder is taking air pressure from the front tire into the bottle and then into the master cylinder and this is going to supply a constant flow of brake fluid and as we got to the front calipers we noticed bits of air coming out we were pretty sure that there was some air getting trapped in these huge pipes going to this ABS module here it's just whether that pressure bleeder got them out if this works first time people are going to think we were like messing around the first time just because of that that thing easy bleed go try it there's no way this is going to work not a chance here we go see we got a pedal I was skeptical but as I put my foot on the brake it was solid I'm actually got a brain pedal no way no way after all of that I cannot believe that works but will it go into gear now if this goes in gear now because we have have that solid brake pedal it's a miracle okay ignition on okay not break P yes yes it goes in Dr no come on now it works it goes in G it must be a pressure switch on it yeah yes so now I have a brake pedal and the car finally goes into gear after putting the engine in which now means I can continue the rebuild and all do we have many parts to continue that build with but we've still got to remove some damage Parts there was lower front arms that needed to come off and then a lot of damaged and cracked coolant hoses there's almost two cooling systems on this engine one cooling system called the engine and then the other one calls the air going into the engine giving it more power and you may notice I've still got the original charge coolers on the top which are damaged as the new ones haven't arrived yet so I'm going to have to put this thing together with the old charge coolers on and then swap them over once I've built up the front end which is going to be slightly more difficult than doing it now but I really want to get this front end on this radiator down here which I'm disconnecting the pipes for now is the transmission cooler and when I disconnect the pipes it does doesn't look like it's got much oil left in it so we're definitely going to have to refill the gearbox with some oil before we get this thing out on the road and then on goes this brand new secondhand red pack which I got from eBay which was pretty cheap then I've just got to connect all the hoses clips and mountains into place okay we're actually getting somewhere now now that I actually have the rad pack on the front and also on each corner I can start to figure out where this Loom goes now there's a few plugs which are missing from the end but now I'm starting to figure it out so this one would go directly here which is uh a switch for the airon so I can order that plug now and then this one down here I still have no idea but I think this has got something to do with the parking sensors not sure what that one is and then also I have this huge Loom over here which I have no idea where that goes at the minute either but the next thing to go on is the front crash bar along with the bottom oil cooler so I'm just going to slide the crash bar into the chassis legs and then bolt up the supporting bars on the top and then we've got to move underneath the car because if you remember from the first video to get this car started we bypass the oil cooler with this huge silicon hose so I've just got to remove the Silicon hose and then put the feed and return line into the oil cooler which sits underneath the car I'm I'm going to stop here on the front end at the minute because I've just noticed something on here which is going to put the build cost up a lot and at the minute we're actually doing okay come over here 32,500 is what it cost me for the BMW M5 and the cheapest M5 with the same spec similar sort of mileage is 52,900 and 99 I'll get back to that issue in a minute but for now we've got wheels to put on and something special underneath the [Music] car this oh my God I'm going toit right oh wow okay this was the full exhaust system that came off from the D pops here and I believe I'm sure a lot of you said that these are the opfs not what are taken off on the down Pips that's what we've already done on the car we've then got a silencer to silence the noise and then a back box or Muffler if you're American but obviously me being me and the cars that we do we won't be putting back on the standard exhaust we're going to be putting on this full Remis exhaust system this is the new exhaust and I feel like I could have made a mistake sometimes louder isn't always better and this exhaust looks like it's going to be insanely loud especially how this car is a 4.4 L twin turbo V8 first thing it goes on are these pipes here which replace the OPF filters then it connects to these pipes which get rid of that Center silencer then I've got to remove the valve system of the old exhaust which allows you to open and close the valves to make it quieter or louder and fit them onto the new exhaust and you may notice the new exhaust bat box or Muffler is considerably smaller than the old one all I've got to do now is fit all the hangers in place and line the exhaust up so the exhaust tips are all in line at the back of the defuser and I was getting pretty excited to hear what this exhaust system was going to sound [Music] like [Music] the exhaust is on and it looks so sick like brand new Remis all the way from the top to the bottom evolve down pipes as well fitted snug against this exhaust now there still there's still a load of like braces and under trays and everything to go on but I'm dying to hear it so I'm going to let Liam do the honors this is going to be so loud it's going to be ridiculous yeah this is going to be so it's going to be well it's going to be a contender with the C63 I think it is we're still missing the charged coolers we don't have any coolant in so I'm just going to drop a bit of coolant in just so it's got a little bit in there you meant to vacuum fill these but we'll get to that but just so we can start it let's do it put a bit in Remis exhaust evolve down parts let's do it yeah ni the and I've got the button for the vales open so I must go have a look go yeah what's that in Comfort oh Sport Plus Sport Plus oh and now close them out and it's the tiniest it's on the tiniest okay that's loud that is insanely loud that is ridiculously loud no leaks we see okay we've got a start come on we got brakes we got exhaust we are making some progress now just got to put all the strut braces and trims along the bottom of the car and job done underneath there but there's one thing that we are forgetting since we put the engine back in when I had the engine out we upgraded the front suspension to KW adjustable Springs but we left the rear so we've got them to do so here's me thinking the rear suspension was going to be easy but obviously not all I've literally got to do is take this shock absorber off which is held in with one bolt across here onto the wheel hub but to get to the top mount bolts right at the top there they go through into the car which I thought would be behind this carpet here but it's not it actually turns out they are behind this parcel shelf somehow so I think I've got to remove this parcel Shelf so we can get to the top mount bolts and well go from there so who wish me look to get to that parcel shelf was definitely not easy I removed the lower half of the rear bench and then a lot of the Shelf was on Clips so I removed all the clips first then the trims had to come out Each corner and then to actually remove the parcel shelf I've got to dismantle both seat belts either side and once I got the seat belts out the way there they are three bolts holding the top mount for the rear suspension on not the easiest of places to put it BMW but once I done on those top mount bolts I can then go back underneath the car and undo the Big Bolt holding the strut to the wheel hub then it's only one electrical connector at the top of the suspension which needs to come off and there we have the strut and the spring away from the car to take the spring off I'm going to use my spring compressors because again I don't fancy losing any teeth then it's just an 18 mil knot to loosen off the top mount now the KW Springs use the same shock absorber but the the actual spring seat needs to come off and I found the best way to do this was heat it up and then just knock it down with a hammer I'm sure you meant to do it with a press but I don't have a press so the hammer was the next best thing then I can knock on the new KW lower spring seat which is of course adjustable which allows me to adjust the ride he up and down depending on whether I change the wheels to a bigger size or not but by keeping the same strut it allows me to keep that adaptive suspension which stiffens it when it's in sport mode and softens it up when it's in Comfort mode so it's a bit of a win-win situation with these and now we've got it assembled I can pop it all back on the car one bolt to the wheel hub and then those three bolts to tighten up on the top of the stru tower and that is job done okay she's starting to look more complete now I would say the ride height at the back with the stock wheels is now looking pretty much perfect and then when we move on to the front again I think that is absolutely bang on we've still got all the body panels to go on the front so it may sit a little lower on the front with those stock Alloys and then also in the back I've not put together this back parcel shelf just yet because we do need to send these seat belts off to be reset because uh obviously the tension is probably would have blown although the seat belts do still move but we'll find out it's better to be safe than sorry and send these off as well as doing the front ones which are again completely locked out as well and well the front airbags are going to be a different story now remember when I said this was about to get pretty expensive so far to get to the point we're at right now with the hoses the crash bar and the rad pack it's cost me an extra 1,100 but I've actually managed to find myself a secondhand bumper from eBay which is actually in the same color as the car the problem is we're missing a lot of parts from it and I think those parts have got something to do with these two wiring looms here in this bumper you have holes for a parking sensor there a parking sensor there there there there and there as well the problem is there's some cutouts here which look for like little square ECU modules of some sort and when I look on the parts diagram for this car I can see that these little ECU modules on each corner and there's something to do with the sensor for Lane changing warning or something like that and each of them are £530 each and we look like we're missing one and two and on top of that it could potentially get worse depending whether this M5 was speced with a raadar sensor which sort of sits around here or sometimes in the lower bumper I'm not so sure which actually detects where the car is in front so it can keep at the same speed as it if I've got to order one of them you can see here they are £ 1,619 and that's just for the sensor not for all the brackets and everything that needs to hold that in place and not to mention the loom which goes to it as well so this really could be where all the little Parts sort of price up the build a lot more unless we can find some secondhand ones which would potentially work but then we got the issue of probably coding them to the car don't quite know how it works if you guys know let me know in the comments section below not do you think it looks better do it well yeah it looks more like a car yeah but I just don't yeah I just don't like BMW wow I'm so sorry the screen saver of Bin and fitted a brand new wind screen which costs £400 bringing the total Bild to £ 35,3 46 I just hope you don't regret putting that new wind screen in by the time I get to changing the dashboard later in the video but good news is we've had some parts arrive oh these are operated charge coolers which are going to replace the broken charge callers that we put on just to get this car running massive thanks to Imran at Evol for sorting these the are these are CSF charge callers and I assume they're going to call the charge a lot better and I'm right unlike your normal intercooler which sits on the front of the car these charged coolers are water cooled a separate water pump pumps water through radiators on the front of the car that you can see here the water is then cooled by the air and it's then sent straight through the charge coolers and at the same time the turbo is pushing hot air through the charge cooler which is being cooled by the water going through it then it leaves the charge cooler and goes straight into the engine all that's left for me need to do is fit the new ones at the bottom of the charge coer you can see the throttle body here and then right at the top you can see the turbos because of how compact this engine bay is it makes it really difficult to do anything on the car with the engine inside so getting these charge coolers off wasn't easy but once they were off I can transfer everything off the old ones onto the new ones like the two boost pressure sensors which do exactly what they say on the tin they tell the ECU how much air the engines get in and then can adjust the air fuel ratio based on those figures so they're pretty vital sensors and then just to finish up there's a few little hoses left and that is looking loads better we can nearly add coolant to the system now it's just getting excited to finally put some coolant in here and then Chris noticed something take a look down here that bottom hose there has a pretty big hole in it ah I'm going to order one of them now from BMW so we can finally get the coolant in it now it's time to tackle the electronics of the car and this is where it gets expensive and I'm just going to throw everything in the Deep pen now this was 1,600 quid for the pair of headlights and I just hope that this is going to work headlights are my Nemesis especially on newer cars they have so many different variations that even one difference can cause them not to work on this M5 I think I've got the right part numbers and there's only one digit difference between the left hand side headlight and the right hand side headlight first one let's get it on down the back okay that's plugged in okay I that's the better one out of the two here we go okay let's let's just see if they work I'm excited oh it's on oh Jesus one oh oh no it's not a good start oh no so we have one one's on but not the other oh dear how you feeling oh no but it might just need turning on for the first time those cool actually try turn it on you might never know it might just be like a maybe I've got faith ready okay good news is is that one come on no no but hold on that one's gone [Laughter] off you're not going to believe it what's happening there what do you want to happen I want both of them to come on what how did that one not come on that's weird how that one works at first then that one works why doesn't it work why is it always headlights now you may have noticed there are two coant reservoirs on the M5 and that's because there's two calling systems one coolant system calls the charge coolers which we spoke about which is the smaller coolant reservoir which I think I'll get away with just pouring the coolant into look at that concentration and then the other coolant system is for the engine but I can't just begin to pour coolant into this coolant reservoir the engine cooling system has to be vacuum filled which means I need this special tool the compressor is going to blow air down this Airline and out here which creates a vacuum sucking air out of the cooling system when I open this tap and we should see a pressure increase which hopefully will hold showing that there is no leaks in the system and this is the actual way BMWs say that you have to do it else you get a lot of air bubbles in the system so let's do it now the tool is creating a vacuum in the cooling system and you can see the pressure here now going to turn the tap off we should see it hold pressure but but unfortunately in this case it looks like it's dropping pressure which means we've got a leak somewhere we've just got to find it I literally cannot win with this car there's another hole it is in this hose here look at it that tiny tiny little hole there well it's a good job we vacuum tested it else we would have lost a lot of coolant instead of ordering another new coolant hose I can see that the little hole is at the top of the hose so what I'm going to try and do instead is cut off the metal clip which holds it to the plastic fitting at the top of the hose and once I got that off I'm going to trim the hose down to just above where that pin hole is I probably shouldn't be using a Dremel but it was in my hand then I can slide the hose back on the plastic fit in and hopefully now the pin hole won't be leaking any coolant then it's time to refit it right round two and after vacuum testing it again it looks like we could be in the all clear it's holding the vacuum and because the cooling system is now pulling a vacuum I can put this hose into the coolant bottle open the tap up and it's going to suck all the coolant out of the bottle and into the cooling system that way we won't get any air locks and we're not even finished yet BMW like to complicate things even more than that turn the ignition on select the hottest temperature on the AC now this is not a joke this is the actual way BMW tell you how to properly bleed the cooling system the heater has got to be on the highest setting with the fans on the lowest setting after that I've then got to hold the accelerator down for 10 seconds with the ignition on which should activate some kind of self bleed system with all the water pumps on the car and you can hear it working away now then you're supposed to let it sit there for 12 to 13 minutes so whilst I wait for that to finish I'll use those 12 or 13 minutes to start putting more of the car together at the front end now when I first bought the car it didn't even have a front end on it it was completely obliterated so assembling all of this was a little difficult as it's something that I never took off in the first [Music] place before we get onto the electrical stuff and the body workor there is one final thing that we're missing on the engine and that is air filters and of course we've not gone for stock filters I'm excited about this one I have already opened it because I couldn't wait again shout out to evolve Automotive in Ran there check these bad boys out even CH is intakes the way these work is basically a cone air filter but the other way around which actually makes like way more sense because the cental Fugal centrifugal centrifugal there's like a centrifugal flow rather than small to big it's big to small which creates a centrifugal flow force force they're going to go each side here and I want to hear what they sound like as well I don't know whether it's going to affect the sound where it's going to sound more Darth fader but let's fit these on and then the engine is done and dusted hopefully fingers crossed then we've got the rest of the car to deal with let's get these on first thing to go on with this induction kit is a heat shield it's pretty obvious what they do and they go both sides of the engine because there's two air filters on this car then there's some protective tape to run around the inside of this part because then the carbon air filter housing slides right through them and and that tape prevents it from being scratched up and then it's pretty self-explanatory from there they fit in the exact same way the stock filters would have fit [Music] in and whilst I was doing that Kevin decided to start Recycling and there was two final pieces to go on the air shrouds at the front which should help guide that cool air into the new induction system look at them that is full Carnage now I've got to give the engine bay a bit of a clean over and also some little brackets which sort of sit here and then rest on there for the heat shield but I cannot wait to start this thing and just sort of listen to see if these make any difference to the sound we know the performance is probably going to increase but I don't know about the sound then we have these air intakes which direct the cold air flow in there and hopefully to these big filters but it's not really going to be directing anything Stood Still but Hannah is about to start it now and we're going to I know how much you love this BMW great but now that we've got the coolant in we can actually run this car to temperature and give it a few revs as well let's see if it's going to sound any different I don't [Music] know well I can't hear anything over the EXO I can't hear any difference over here the exhaust is so loud all we looking got engine management light on tire pressure restraint system why why are you doing all this when the airbags still need to what why are you doing all this when the airbags need to doing Hannah was right I'd gotten a little carried away with the upgrades when there's still so much more to repair on this M5 but just look how good it looks I just finished all that and then realized I've missed these things off turbo inlet pipes they look absolutely mental I did think the stock ones looked a bit restrictive that they're plastic and that I better get these on okay okay this is the last upgrade before we C on repairing this M5 and this one doesn't count because it was part of the induction kit but after all this it should finish off any work that we need to do to the [Music] [Applause] engine look at that that is one mental looking engine bay full carbon intakes now all the way to the turbos and then with the gold charge coolers but we've still got well this to deal with and and we've still got well all of this to deal with okay I've been putting it off long enough we need to do this dashboard as you all may know by now there are a lot of air in this M5 and when airbags deploy especially passenger side airbags most of the time it means you've got to remove the full dashboard but not only is the passenger side airbag gone in this car the curtain airbags have gone the steering wheel airbag is gone and also the knee airbag is gone now because we can't repair the dashboard that's already in the M5 the benefit of us buying a complete new one is that we can see where all the bolt holes are where this thing comes off we can see the holes there and there but the painful ones are these two ones here which means we're going to have to take out the whole center console to get to those bolts but other than that I don't think it looks too bad but I've said it now ain't I if you ever think about doing a dashboard at home I'd advise you the best thing to do is remove both seats first and that's exactly what I'm doing here I couldn't imagine removing a dashboard without removing the seats first it just gives you that much more room to move around the car and look at the mess inside this M5 now these seats are far from light there's a huge electrical Loom that plugs into the bottom of them and they are fully electric which made it that much more difficult to pull them out now I'm going to have to remove this center console here to access the two bolt holes that we can see on the new dashboard which look like they attach it to the frame of the car and to do so I'm going to start from the back of the center console and work my way forward the first time I ever removed a dashboard to do an airbag was last year on the GOL R and since then we've done plenty and from what I've learned you just can't cut Corners sometimes I try and get the dashboard out without taking the center console and it always comes down to having to take that center console out so I'm not going to beat around the bush this time I found the two 10 ms at the front of the center console which hold it to the chassis then I've just got to find the rest of the 10 ms which do the same job another good technique that I used on the porse GT3 out in Florida was that every time I removed a bolt I put it back in the hole where it came from after I pulled the trim out that way it's really easy to organize where exactly the bolts came from and now I can just about access two bolts which hold the center console to the dashboard we're nearly there now the craziest thing about this what I've just found out is to remove this center console you've got to remove the dashboard which makes no sense even though I've undone those two bolts there and all the 10 ms holding the center console to the frame of the car I can lift it but I can't pull it out because of the way the dashboard is shaped here so if you look when I pull it I I literally I cannot slide it out because the dashboard overlaps here but the good news now is that I should be able to remove the dashboard without removing all of this even though I had to remove all of this to get to those bolts there you live and you learn so now I'm moving on to getting that dashboard finally out but before I get to that I've got to remove the steering wheel along with the steering wheel airbag I've take the clock spring up just to make sure it doesn't spin when I remove it as we've made that mistake before and then I'm going to remove the wiper stalks this is so when the dashboard is finally loose I can pull it up over the steering column and the more stuff you remove the more bolts you reveal and we just got to work through it bit by bit some will be in obvious places and some not so obvious places but having that new dashboard ready to hand made life so much easier cuz now we can see where everything [Music] is I can see here on the right hand side there's about three or four bolts which attach it to the frame and one of them was hiding inside this compartment on the right hand side here in fact I think there was two there another bit of advice I'd say when doing a dashboard is make sure you're going to remove it and put the new one back in on the same day that way your memory is fresh and the longer you leave it the more you forget about where things went but if you are planning on doing it over multiple days then take loads of f photos on your phone I think one of the hardest things about getting it back in is working out where all the wiring rooted to and if you don't get that right the first time you could end up taking it back out again to re-root the wires which is really frustrating but right now I've just about got enough wiggle room to slide the center console backwards and finally get that dash out once and for [Music] all yay I did [Music] it old dashboard is out actually wasn't too bad I might actually be getting a little bit better at this thing um I've certainly had a lot of practice new dashboard on here now this come with a passenger side airbag already bolted in full dashboard was £1,100 which I think is quite expensive for a dashboard with airbag but it's because it's got this heads up display Malarkey as well so you got to make sure it's right in fact yeah the stitching is exactly the same we I think it's like gray stitching full lever dashboard yeah I think now what time is it 9:36 9:36 let's get his Dash back in by 1036 yeah 10:36 let's let's go It Was a Race Against Time could we get the new dashboard in within 1 hour I think we're probably being a little ambitious but now we know where everything goes I can't see why not okay quarter 10 we got 15 minutes left Liam smashing it plugs now look it's just plugs yeah it's just plugs plugs I'm electrician and electrician just plug stuff in apparently yeah all you do is plug stuff plugs and plugs they just plug in yeah there isn't many plugs okay um let's do some plugin is actually the plugin which makes this job time consuming you can't rush something like this if you leave one of those connectors not plugged in then there's something on the dashboard that's not going to work and I don't want to be the guy that has to take it all apart to plug one tiny connector back in but me and Liam were making good Headway we're now getting the instrument cluster back in and I was working on the left hand side of the car getting all the trims in it made life so much easier that I'd left the bolts in the holes that they came out of as that it wasn't hunting round for a bolt that had placed in the middle of nowhere finally the dash was in the steering wheel was on and all we've got left to do was put all the center console back together which was a little frustrating because some things had to go in certain [Music] order £ 329 39p it's got to go up here and that was for the knee airbag and that was directly from BMW I couldn't find one anywhere [Music] else Liam what's the time half 10 yeah half 10 10 10:25 yeah half 10 we've got how many 10 minutes to spare yeah yeah 10 minutes to SP we did it we absolutely nailed it check it out although we didn't do it we were an we were hour over it took 2 hours to go back in but we've done a the center console as well and we did the center console yeah you know I'd actually be interested to see what the actual book Time For That was cuz I think 2 hours was a couple hours getting out so I reckon four hours four hours all round job of doing this and I don't have a steering wheel airbag yet we still got to do the curtain airbags um but everything is all in and back me up Liam how many bolts left there's no there's actually no bolts left we're getting so much better at this there's literally no bolts left smashed it whether we've actually left anything unplugged or not that's another story that is another story so before we deal with this situation we've got some unfinished jobs to do in the interior and quite clearly well we're not finished just like the GT3 every airbag has deployed in the M5 and what's in this box here are some new curtain airbags in the last video we tackled the biggest part of the airbag bag system the passenger side airbag which required me to change the full dashboard but we've still got a lot left and one of them is the curtain airbags they are held in with these non-reusable clips which are a nightmare to get out and then a few T30 bolts which hold it to the frame of the car remember these curtain airbags have to be really well secured because when the canister ignites the airbag you don't want the airbag flying across the car and now we have the old one off here is the new one with all new clips and a brand new airbag canister I tried to find these secondhand on eBay but I had no luck so I ended up buying them direct from BMW but the pricing wasn't too bad but we'll get to the pricing later on in the video but now the curtain airbag is installed I can start putting back all the trim pieces and start making the M5 interior look like an interior again and of course I've got to do the same on the driver's side job done curtain airbags in there is one more airbag to go and that is of course the steering wheel airbag this one was broken but before we got into the steering wheel airbag I need to remove this steering wheel cuz we got some goodies for it this is the old paddle shifter and wait there Imran from evolve has got us some new operated paddle shifters to disconnect the electrics from the old paddle shifters there's just a slide pin that we need to push out and then the electrics literally just pull off the old paddle shifters then all I've got to do is get the electrics and the spring and connect it onto the new paddle shifters and slide in that pin back again once I've done that I'll push the paddle shifters onto the back of the steering wheel there's one electrical connector and one Torx bolt to hold it in I'll just do the other one then we'll put it in the car it's the little upgrades like this that really make the difference when making a car your own but let's not get distracted we've still got to fix this thing so here is the new steering wheel airbag but we then need to move on to another part of the restraint system and that would be the seat belts you guys should all know by now from watching my videos when the airbags deploy in a car it usually locks the seat seat belts out so it pulls the passenger or driver back into the seat so the airbag deploys not right in your face now luckily in this case I didn't have to buy four new seat belts I sent the seat belts to the airbag team where they put on new tensioners you can see the canisters here on every single seat belt which still isn't the most cheapest of things it's £399 for all four but to buy new seat belts with tensioners from BMW you're looking at around £300 per seat belt so it's not a bad saving fitting the seat belts isn't too difficult but if you don't make sure the seat belts in the right location when fitting it it's likely that it would just stay locked out so you have to be careful to an extent once I put the driver's side seat belt in I can put the trims back in to make it look nice and neat again and then I've got the rear seat belts to put in and they locate just underneath the parcel shelf the M5 is really putting me to work today the interior is back in and looking fresh the best it's ever looked since I've had the car it's looking super clean in here but one thing that we don't know yet since we're placing the dashboard we haven't checked to make sure everything works there was so many electrical connectors bolts and all sorts of stuff behind this dashboard and we want to see whether it works we're on well I've not started it but the dashboard is all on we've got so many warning lights oh wow oh no no no no no no no okay okay that's not working does a car oh oh oh it did work oh it does work sometimes it works one thing that we do have on is still a restraint system warning line and that's because we're still not finished with the restraint system the next part of the restraint system is actually to do with the Bonnet hinges and you can see them just here and they're on both hinges each side I managed to get a new set of these hinge thingies from eBay for £15 which is still quite expensive for these little small things but from BMW it's a lot more expensive these things are actually called pedestrian protectors I believe and they're designed to protect a pedestrian if you hit them you can see the Bonnet Rises here when The Pedestrian is hit to act as a sort of cushion for the poor guy when he whacks into the Bonnet now as M have been detonated they're not going to detonate again and that's why I need to replace them and due to how bad the Bonnet was all twisted up and bent I'm also going to be replacing the Bonnet hinges as well in my experience I found that this is a pretty good idea as when you buy a brand new Bonnet and you're trying to line it up it sometimes can be really difficult if there's a slight Bend in the Bonnet hinge and it's really diff ult to tell so sometimes it's a lot better just to get new hinges but we're not in the all clear just yet in order for the protectors to detonate we need sensors on the front of the car what's in this is I'm still not too sure how these work there is a sensor at each end of the car with a sort of vacuum line and when this gets pinched it sets something off in the sensor which pushes those pedestrian protectors up upwards and this well I'll show you where it goes this line and the sensors slot into this foam piece which sit on the crash bar and I assume if that Airline gets a pinch or registers an impact then it'll send a signal to The Pedestrian protectors to pop the Bonnet hinges upwards and with those fitted I can now slide it onto the front crash bar and then it's on with a new wiring loom which I had to buy from BMW again more expense each one of these plugs is going to plug into something I know is going to be expensive because it's electrical but the good news the restraint system is almost there one final thing the Channel's all-time favorite the Pyro fuse this thing breaks when the airbags deploy stopping you from starting the car because what it does this pyro fuse goes on this side here all this fuse does is isolate the power going directly to the starter motor so you can no longer start the car now to get a pyro fuse from BMW you have to buy this full section like most cars which is over £550 but just Google the partner with the Pyro fuse $21.99 off eBay and they're used on in fact most cars even rollsroyce use this let's get it in if you've missed a few episodes then we've been able to start the car by bypassing the Pyro fuse and if you ever buy a crash damag car which won't start this is the best place to start we can bypass it from moving the cable which sits on the Pyro fuse over to the main body electrics again it's super sketchy but it seems to work for short-term use anyway but now that I've got all the airbags and restraint system in I feel comfortable enough to refit the parro fuse and luckily on the BMW it's not in a too difficult position moving on to my headlight situation I bought two secondhand headlights and even though they're the right part number only one seems to be [Music] working what how did that one not come on these were £800 each and I hope it's money not wasted so the left headlight for no reason at all doesn't work but the right one works completely fine so apparently I've been speaking to defined coding on Instagram and he says now a lot of the electrical parts and the modules on BMWs and a lot of new cars are locked to the VIN of that car especially if you're putting on a secondhand part it's trying to stop people from stealing parts and then putting them on other cars we could potentially have a stolen headlight or we could all we need to do is code it to the car which is more than likely I don't think it' be stolen but we're about to find out I had to plug this cable into an OBD Port which then goes to an ethernet cable on the laptop then defined coding was able to remotely code the car is one okay one's one's just came on [Music] already that was like 2 seconds come on Define coding you absolute legend that was like 3 seconds done Legend here's the plan there's an issue which we're going to get to but of course we're missing body panels and this has got to go to the body shop at some point in its life this is the old Wing or Fender if you're American thought it was savable doesn't look that bad but this has been dented that maybe could have been pulled out in fact oh no it's all been creased up that's why yeah the whole thing's creased so I looked on eBay couldn't find any but from BMW about a couple of hundred for a brand new Wing from BMW so at least guaranteed fitment I just want to bolt it in with a few bolts because of course the body shops got to take it back out and they're going to go mad at me if I if I put it put it in properly it's looking better already we've got the plastic s to Ste to take out that that's One Wing on Next Step Bonnet here we go a brand new BMW Bonnet as well which surpris in there was cheap we'll get to all the prices at the end this was a lot cheaper than buying a brand new secondhand one off eBay in fact it was around the same sort of price but the convenience of having a new one Chris there we go you on okay you're all good good finally the M5 is starting to come together if it wasn't for that one mistake in the last video I vacuum fill the and actually got it running until well this happened colon started to fly out of somewhere and it was being thrown onto the auxiliary belt which made it so difficult to find out where it was coming from so there's actually two mistakes I've made here and and one I think the coolant line is this bottom one here and turns out I think it's rubbing on the belt and it's rubs through so my mistake completely I think I've rooted a coolant hose in the completely wrong direction which lead it to be resting on the auxiliary belt and that's what's caused this hole here and 77 lb later a new hose has arrived this time I've got to make sure it Roots the right way and once I've got that installed I've then got to vacuum fill the coant again which means putting the vacuum filler onto the expansion tank blowing air across it to suck a vacuum and make sure it holds it before putting in some more coolant sucked well it's holding vacuum so there must be no leaks in the engine cooling system which brings me on to mistake number two and actually I've got an excuse for this one it's not actually my fault I Ed the wrong coolant BMWs take green coolant thanks to all you guys who commented and said I should use green coolant not red coolant I asked the parts place I got the coolant from for calling for the BMW and they sent me red so I just trusted them and well I was wrong turns out it was green let's suck it all in and then we could just about get the bumper on and get it out on the road now I'm really getting excited to drive an M5 for the first time ever and with the coing system vacuum filled I've now got to fill up the charge cool ins side which has a separate expansion tank but here's mistake number three you can see on the gauge that the vacuum was dropping before I even added any coolant to it but I completely ignored it and still added coolant and I soon found out why I shouldn't do that just when you think you've done it and bled the system there's more there's too many cooling systems on this car like this radiator here this is like the only last few hoses I've not replaced and and you can just see up there that hose is must have the tiniest of pinoles in and there's that one's going is this one is top of the radiator is it you replace this radiator yeah okay yeah replace that radiator so it's top one and that is leaking out of the hose you can just see it up there oh my God that side is the charge cooling side the engine side seems good charge cooler side no good here it is the hopefully the final culprit the tiniest of pin holes is holding this whole car back but that shouldn't stop me from getting this car on a trailer where I can get the Bonnet the wing and the second hand bumper that I managed to pick up painted at the body shop but I'm beginning to think some of you guys were right these are all receipts for parts I'm not going to write each individual part but the remaining parts that I've bought has cost me another £2,700 which now brings the total build cost including the car to £ 39,5 169 and the cheapest one on AO Trader right now which is a similar year and spec is £ 51,1 190 but that one isn't crash damaged so we're really cutting it close but I think we're going to have an amazing in M5 after this now there's some obvious things that need fixing on the M5 and some not so obvious and well this is one of them even though I bought a brand new battery for the M5 because the other one was flat I still have to jump start it with a battery pack and uh well let me explain why the BMW comes with a lithium battery which is super expensive and mine was completely flat so instead I tried to replace it with a normal lead battery which was still 250 which worked for a little bit Yeah and then stopped working now it should start now with the battery pack connected no problem at all just check the clocks out here if I give it a REV the clock's do it l it literally doesn't even have enough power for it to rev and it doesn't seem to charge the battery so quite clearly I can't get away with using a normal battery on it it even has a power supply F on the dashboard and although it does drive in and out of the unit it doesn't last long before it turns off so I've literally had no choice but to buy a brand new one from BMW which was just short of 642 now we all know how expensive lithium batteries are now the good news is the bumper the on it and both front Wings fenders if you're American have all been painted we'll get to the price later but for now I need to get these fitted onto the car and it's going to start to look more like an M5 after this we're starting things off simple we've got to take the front wheel off so we can get the wing on and now it's been painted it's going to start to make the car look more complete there's a few bolts on top of the wing inside the wing and then one where you have to open the door to access access it at the top on the driver's side Wing as well there's also a washer bottle which sits inside this holds all the fluid for the screen wash and then finally the M5 trims and then it's exactly the same for the passenger side apart from this one doesn't have a washer bottle inside of it both wings are on the next step which could be an expensive one we it actually turns out wasn't too bad now you see the loom on the front and it's got all these different plugs I've actually found out where these plugs come from now and the main issue would have been if this car has a radar sensor for that adaptive cruise control which follows the car in front but we know we've not got that because on the steering wheel there's no button here for adaptive cruise control to follow the car in front so I didn't need to buy the radar but the plug on the loom is still there but I tell you what there is the these two things which are parking assist things yes that's how it goes in I'll just cut the rest of that out we then realized there was no part of the Loom which actually plugged into those parking assist sensor things it looks like we don't need it I don't I don't think we need it I might have to take them out and I could just resell them maybe or I could have them in and confuse the next owner to think why are these not plugged in we'll see let's put it together so potentially I could have saved some money on those parking sensor things but I could always sell them next thing to go in is the little camera which goes between the kidney grills and after that the car needs an ambient air temperature sensor problem was there was two plugs which this could potentially go in only way to find out which one it was was for Liam to get in the car yep yep straight away yeah y a Sensational next up it's the kidney grills I got these cheap from eBay because they're not genuine ones they're copy ones but I don't think you can tell the difference and almost the final piece of the puzzle is the front bumper and it's really starting to come together now but we are missing the arch linings on both sides so we're going to have to order them from BMW now with this on like this we can see whether the parking sensors work because if they don't we got to jack it back up drive yeah yeah y y the beep and and the camera the camera the camera on the camera's on no shredded you shredded your belt when you're doing that oh yeah okay there could be an issue which U I knew was an issue but thought I could probably get away with it so this and this is part of my auxiliary belt I remember when I put the auxiliary belt on it looked like the bottom pulley was a little bit bent uh but when I run it everything ran fine but I did order I did order a new pulley um but I put the whole front end on before fitting it thought I'll be okay and now clearly not so um maybe I should uh put this on lesson learned I should have just changed it in the first place because now it is right down there and the radiator fan is pretty much in the way so even though this's a super tight Gap to access the four bolts I somehow still manag to get it [Music] off at this point I'm hoping it is actually this that's bent and not the bit on the end of the crank because well it looks straight but I don't know let's put on the new one so with more tight squeezing getting it down I managed to get the new one on and just to test whether that was actually a thing that was bent or not I put back on the old damaged belt I made sure everything sat in place started the car and it all looked good we just needed a new auxiliary belt yeah yes it worked we just need a new boat and then we can carry on the rest of the car come on SO a new auxiliary belt is on order along with the front Arch Linings as well but in the meantime I could put everything back together right once we get a belt and everything we might as well figure out why we have this airbag light still on even though we replace all the airbags I was hoping it was just a case of clearing fault codes but it turned out not near airbag driver resistance too low right so KN airbag which is under there there was a fault with the KN airbag and if you remember we bought a brand new one from BMW in the previous video as you can see here so there's got to be something wrong with either the airbag or the wiring going to it I removed in the airbag but everything looks fine and so did the wiring go into it so we've got now test whether there's any faults with the knee airbag the maximum it's meant to be is 5.4 and the minimum it's meant to be is 1.3 and it's zero so the airbag was reading 0 ohm when it was plugged in and 25 ohm when it wasn't plugged in so the airbag is shoren out when it's plugged in indicating it's a problem with the airbag but the only thing I could do now is install it back in place cuz I wanted to get the car on the road but later we'll try and return it to BMW so it's defective then yeah because it's plugged in yeah it's defective it is defective so it's gled looks like we're going to BMW tomorrow for a lot of things for a lot of things yeah we are now so close to getting the M5 back on the road for the first time since the accident but one thing that we haven't done is put fresh oil in it which is going to be needed especially as this will be going on the dyno later in the video oil filter changed and by now BM have delivered the rest of the under trays and the front Arch Linings as well as for the knee airbag well that's a different story and we're going to have to cover that later in the video but the front Arch Linings are now in looking really smart along with the rest of the under trays down comes the M5 and in goes 9 and 1/2 L of oil and then last but definitely not least the freshly painted Bonnet which Hannah is called to help me put on this is going to be one of the most fliest part of the jobs getting the Bonnet and all the panel gaps lining up correctly best way I found is leave the Bonnet loose close it without the Bonnet latches and Edge it around till you get it perfect and there it is all the engine and the engine Plastics all in place looking really smart and that is one BMW M5 this satisfaction is real and actually Hannah I'm going to let you do because you love BMW so much you're going to get to do the final piece I'm going to put it on wonky no I don't think you can you can do [Laughter] it yeah do you like it now no no well I think it looks pretty cool but pretty [Music] cool everyone has seen a standard-ish BMW M5 and now this is where things get interesed before we go and drive it time to add some modifications now what's better than no splitter a carbon fiber front splitter of course so now that's exactly what me and Hannah are fit in and the black stand rear diffuser is good and all but what's better than that of course a carbon fiber rear diffuser as well so me and Hannah are fitting one of them also with the carbon fiber diffuser there's little side spats which also go with it which look pretty good now the standard black spoiler is okay but what's better than a standard black spoiler a carbon fiber one of course so me and Hannah are going to fit one of them but turns out that the tape provided with the spoiler wasn't as strong as we thought so we sacked that off and in the end used tiger seal to stick the carbon fiber spoiler to the bootle the company I bought that carbon stuff off didn't sell the side skirt so I ended up buying them from eBay and well this is what came it said carbon in the title and quite clearly look at the state of them I don't know what it looks like on camera but they are definitely not carbon some kind of fake copy hydro dipped carbon well and truly catfished they're going back now there was still more carbon to fit to the car but I had an appointment at wheel Mania and I couldn't let them down so I had no choice but to drive it as it [Music] is almost forgot number plates thanks again UMR plates always sorts us out with the number plates let me get it straight yeah it's a bit wonky it's good enough let's go well I Got 5 Seconds down the road and I now have a drivetrain fall and I can't take it over 2,000 revs this car is going to be one of them cars because there's so many sensors on it um I don't know whether this has got to do with induction kit whether it's got something to do with the exhaust don't know in limp mode or not I finally made it to wheel Mania the place for all wheels and wheel refurbishments as well of course I don't actually think the stock wheels on the M5 look too bad but there's definitely room for improvement and to make the car look more like my own well uh I'm missing some my number plates fell off okay um maybe that's why it went into limp mode I've completely forgot what Wheels I ordered because I ordered these wheels when I literally got the car because I was excited to get onto it so this is going to be the first time actually seeing them in person oh is that them okay they look sick so these are the BMW M5 wheels go for 11 for 21 on the RAR and 9 half 21 I forgot what1 in um width I ordered 8 in I ordered you know what I don't know how how much they're going to work with the color of the car like would you reckon they'll I think be nice contrast yeah I think it will suit because everyone's going to want me to go black wheels because they already got black on but just I'm I'm over black wheels now so let's see what they look like so now that you've seen the Alloys let me know what you think I'm unsure they'll work with the color of the car but worst case I can get them refurbished here so when you're trying to find fitment for Wheels what's the process to uh getting it fitting perfect um just message me personally and I'll just get the bang on no space is required just WhatsApp the number WhatsApp the number and George's right I've been coming to wheel Mania for years now and they always get the fitment spot on it's a proper family-owned business which really takes care of the customers and if you guys need any Alloys for your car I've left their WhatsApp number in the description box below let's go blow up their phone but now the wheels have been fitted do you know what I think it looks 10 out of 10 and I never would have chose this color but I don't want to show you guys just yet I need to finish this car with all them electrical faults and all sorts before before I show you and there's more carbon to go on so back to the unit so interesting first drive in limp mode under 2 RPM but I've been doing some research and I think I know why but before we get onto that we have some stuff here to fit and some stuff here to fix so this part of the steering column here which should move back and forth and up and down it it doesn't really oh sometimes it works but sometimes it doesn't work but this is the perfect time for me to not only change this because one actually came with the dashboard and I didn't fit it but also to do another mod as well first step is to disconnect the battery and that is because we're going to be removing the steering wheel airbag and once the steering wheel airbag is removed then we can loosen the bolt which holds the steering wheel to the steering column once that's off I can then access the bottom panel which is underneath the steering wheel which has all those switches and the faulty adjustment switch as [Music] well and now we can remove that one and replace it with hopefully the good one once that's installed we can move over to the next modification from premium bespoke also works but in able to fit that modification I've got completely stripped down the stock steering wheel so I can fit it on to a brand new carbon fiber steering wheel this is going to look so good and I've had this completely customized to my own liking it's just the case of fitting it back onto the car now and doing everything in [Music] reverse and there it is one carbon steering wheel with a Bronze center line to match the bronze on the front of the car that I've done behind the kidney grills and the blue and red stitching to match the blue and red stitching that is on the seat belts on the car as well I really thought about this one so does this work yes now this is now working carbon steering wheel looks good but right now I want to sort the issue out on why this car is in limp mode and won't let me take it above 2,000 revs let's do [Music] this [Music] so the reason the car's in limp mode is because I've removed the OPF filters out of the exhaust which aren't actually tested in the UK but that should give us more power when we tune it and when we tune it it shouldn't be in limp mode anymore it's going to be so loud to put this Theory to the test I brought the M5 to malerie Performance and hopefully after the tune we'll unlease some serious power we just about ready 600 8 break that what we're after but 617 stock okay we're after 618 even though the car was in limp mode we attempted to do one dinno run just before we tuned it we're looking for 617 BHP first run we got 468 BHP and um and a complete drop off in revs of course because of limp mode now Phil's going to tune the car and let the computers of the car know that I've removed the OPF filters which should give us more power it's going to be [Music] noiser 700 8 HP and8 horsepower and 81 Newton M of torque that is insane and that's just like the base map do you reckon he can go faster probably probably we're already making really good power but Phil was determined to make more little B is it going to be go we have made more we've made more 720 W 720 horsepower [Music] 104 more horsepower than stock 720 horsepower 82 82 newm of torque that is insane there is a link to Phil's YouTube channel below go check it out if you want to see more Powers what is this s that [Music] sooud oh my God that is absolutely NS 720 horsepower is insane but what's it going to be like on the road this looks like it's going to be one hell of a first drive cuz it looks like it's about to throw it down and you guys are about to see the car in full complete ish for the first time let's do [Music] [Music] it this is what has made rebuilding this car all the hours have been worth it for this [Music] now [Music] what so the price everything was it worth it there is another 1,200 to go on this and we've not counted upgrade parts of anything like that because we've had loads of companies help us out so thank you all to those companies that helps us with the upgrade parts and remember also sitner has helped us out a lot with our special code MC 15 which you can only use in the description for genuine BMW parts which brings the total cost of the build to £ 41,45 hang on hang on I didn't add the paint I didn't add the paint I didn't have the paint 1,250 which then brings it to £ 42,66608 I think without the help from other people there's no way we would have done it and the cheapest BMW M5 competition which wasn't previously crashed with triple the mileage is £5,495 so maybe we haven't done so bad after all the question is was it worth it for me I think so I've rebuilt a car I've learned so much from it so as you guys know we've replaced every single airbag inside this car including the dashboard the steering wheel airbag the knee airbag and all of the curtain airbags yet we're still getting a fault on the dashboard for airbags in the previous video we scanned the codes and the only fault was the knee airbag although we bought a brand new one from BMW so we found it strange it was bringing up a fault when we tested it with the auto the ohm reading was meant to be between 1.3 and 5.4 when it was unplugged it was Zero but when it was plugged in it was showing 25 ohms after speaking to BMW they' have told me I need to bring the car in with the airbag connected so they can test it to see if it's actually a faulty airbag but some of you guys have mentioned something and this something that you've mentioned potentially could be the fix but in order to try it I need to remove the knee airbag once again it's only held in with two 10 wheel bolts so it's not too hard so here's the faulty airbag in question but some of you noticed that on the actual airbag connector here there's supposed to be a clip on it and I don't have the clip now this could be me being genuinely stupid but if this works then yeah yeah I'm stupid now this is the little clip that's missing and apparently this thing's important one of you guys told me that when this clip is inserted into the connector a little bit of plastic sits between the two connectors to stop it shorting out or creating any static which could set the the airbag off that's connected I'm not feeling confident the airbag light was still on then went off then back on again still there and we still have a restraint system issue you know what let's scan the codes and just check so in goes the auto device into the OBD port and up come a bunch of old fault codes that we need to clear off first and once we cleared them we could check the results oh here we go okay oh it could have fixed it Mt wow is it looking promising it it could have it could have fixed it has that done it one clip was causing all this Hassle and now we're going to have to go to BMW and say I'm sorry here we go let's see it's gone hey a faultless car yeah it works a faultless car because of One Clip well we've got one more thing to do before we take it to BMW and uh it looks like they're going to inspect the rest of the car in the last video we made a few modifications including the front splitter the carbon rear diffuser and the rear spoiler as well now I know some of you don't really like the modifications that we done but I think that's what separates it from a normal M5 to my M5 it's what car modification is about and I think think one thing that is missing to slide in the rear diffuser to the front diffuser I'm hoping are some really nice carbon side scares but as we was unboxing them all was not how it seemed they didn't even fit they were miles Too Short right what nah no no there's no way okay well that's a fail um look like we're going straight to BMW this was it yeah my M5 goes back to its home ground got so here we are at BMW Leicester now originally we were meant to come here to have the airbag fixed they told us to bring it here with the airbag connected we' managed to fix that that's not going to stop us getting a health check and seeing what the technicians think of my repair which wasn't necessarily done by a professional let's get this thing [Music] inside go Mr Armstrong how you doing today you good I'm good thank you good good if I could take your key off of you I'll just take it straight through get Ted for you and then I'll be right back with the paperwork thank you fine look after it of course now before the M5 goes through into the workshop it first has to drive through these posts called a faster line which is actually pretty clever so this thing right here if I remember right it does a it's called a faster line and I think it if and right say it checks check the wheel alignment Che the alignment and then The Bodyguard checks the damage so when you bring it in so just so if there's any discrep if it was ever damaged on site it's never been damaged that car that's fine and a few moments later we were able to get the results to see if the wheels were in line how off is it so this is basically showing me now yeah the front is a little off yeah we need to do a wheel alignment it's not surprising that the front wheels are out of line especially with the amount of work that we've done to it but if I put that strut Tower in even 1 mm out it's going to affect the whole alignment even taking the suspension off and on again can affect the alignment so we need to get it on an alignment rack before we jump to any conclusions that I've installed the strut tower on we're reading the key so it bring up the service data um various error codes how much fuel you got on board any recalls no no recalls great doesn't need servicing no I did that and reset the light yeah reset the light myself um in my BMW approved Workshop see where it's been serviced in the past sit now cheffield yeah okay at that th000 miles at 9,000 it crashed around then 12th of January 21 it crashed in February now the M5 was being taken into the workshop ready for its inspection but meanwhile I had another issue so this is another story in itself uh I actually lost the key for the car so I had to order one from here and in the meantime I found my key this is a non- returnable item though and that has just cost me a total of £341 but at least I got two keys now another problem solv but back in the workshop rich is preparing the M5 for the health inspection and there's something he noticed straight the way oh that's Bo's missing cool he's looking looking for an earth point for his battery charger but it actually turns out that even chy intake was hiding it it's covering it over just a couple things already seen obviously uh wiring Looms in bits as you can see that that looks like it's been crushed as well yeah and you see these all data lines as well in here so obviously that that probably wants addressing that's probably quite crispy as well obviously all the sealer and stuff like that I wonder why it's like that why is the sealer like that H I don't know I wouldn't like to say but uh probably something to do with new inner wings and things like that as you can see Factory this side as you can see Factory line but obviously that is done by a machine yeah yeah and obviously that one's been done by jeux dog I was going to say someone look like they haven't done sealing before yeah that's right so that's just uh one of them things now after fitting structural parts you supposed to use seam sealer to seal the gap between each panel the problem is at factory this is done by a machine and trying to replicate the way that they do it is pretty difficult and I was pretty terrible at doing it just look at that this is how it's supposed to be done with the right equipment it's not a major issue as long as this is all obviously safe and solid so noticed that went painted the enges it's all about that's probably the cheapest thing to paint okay maybe I forgot to drop the hinges to the body shop to be painted plug in see if there's any faults in the system and obviously work out what we can do from there so so what the they're moaning at is these little Clips which BMW put way too many in so I've lightened it okay don't get it don't get them in Porsches no no it's just in after Richard already upset me he's now plugging in the special BMW diagnostic tool to find any more faults has it actually been mapped it has been mapped yeah so won't wipe it will it no we won't wipe it the only time we wipe it is obviously if we have to do a software update if we do a software it all depends how the maps been put on and things like that so so what if it's mapped what is it going to show we'll flash up so is that my warranty voided yeah then we have to send a case to BMW say never touch this car as you can imagine I'm not too worried about warranty but from the sounds of it BMW can find out whether your car was mapped even if you take it off before it goes in it went bang then you can say well it's out of it's out of map so we're not going to touch it that's right but the thing is even if it's not going map on here that went bang and you brought a tin TR to get warranty BMW can actually search all the old history and actually find out they can tell you where it went bang and everything going there you go if you want to take and like the GPS signal knows where the car is all the time so because it knows where the car is all the time obviously it'll know that the car's static but it's doing 120 mph yeah even if the m5's been on a dyno BMW can tell if you're static doing over 100 mph it's a bit of a giveaway there we go for everyone watching if you're BMW is tuned there's no hide in it really is there they can't really it's all there in black and well orange onto the diagnostic parts and as the screen was looking green I thought it was all positive green I'm guessing green means good green means good blue means something missing yes there is one thing which is still broken and I think this will pick it up and after a few moments of reach digging around the front of the car he found what was broken this is the bit that we knew was broke so that that goes to your pressure sensor on your air connotation that's it yeah so Adam over there has um ordered me well I have actually got the plug but uh yeah I didn't have time to uh fix that but yeah well at least you found it well it's not that we'll just move them out the way so they look short against each other better hey oh look at that there ain't many in there I was expecting L doubted me so basically the only faults we've actually got in there are for the airon cuz obviously it needs gas in yeah and actually for the or around cameras cuz obviously that's saying the control unit can't be found yeah and then that's saying that it wants programming we're pretty much faultless that's not bad that is not bad and now he's on to the body inspection it's getting a little nerve-wracking so it's just little little covers like that and clips and whatnot that you know just W doing and uh little tidying up here and there bit of cable management so far so good there's only a few cosmetic things that I needed to do just to tidy it up well yeah I mean as for the in the wing it's all in place it's all looks good so that's quite a good one as well actually was getting a lot of comments saying that because there was just a hole in the strut Tower people were saying I could have just filled it with Weld and carried on I'm guessing that's going to affect the whole structure and integrity of the car cuz cuz they're all cast and everything else you can't that's why see you got all these little little bits in here and just look like a bit you know these are all strengthening points all around this and that's why there's so many of them laced out around here obviously where the spring Tower goes and everything else done exactly the right thing even though this was more issue yeah EXA yeah it was a mission of a job because it's done prop that's really good to hear so the strrip tow is looking good just a few things need tidying up now rich is on to the rest of the car everything on the right side is looking great and on the rear right side's looking good but as for the back left we have an [Music] issue oh bit of a blower there so well that's new my dad was sitting in the back so we'll blame it on him that's only just recently done that and it's only done like 11,000 Mi now but I don't think the Springs have helped that situation obviously we're lowering it it so the shock absorber has got less travel which I think would probably affect it if it's an say if it's an older shock absorber then obviously all of a sudden it's dropped then you're going to get that as well cuz the seals are going to be sitting in a slightly different place it looks like the seals in the rear shock absorber have completely gave up and there's fluid everywhere but as I mentioned I don't think the adjustable Springs have helped that situation it up one thing with these as well if you had the bash pan off yeah what I would always do is put new bolts in here right someone said that are they stretch bolts or something yeah but there is actually a torque procedure for them right because what you can get uh you can put them on sometimes you going down the RO you can hear a really horrible creaky noise sounds like suspension's coming out of it and all it is if these aren't tored up in like the correct pattern obviously you'll get the no and the noise will come from this no leaks from the diff obviously all this oil is from this shock absorber yeah it's proper gone with a bang that is I know that's it's strange cuz I mean it's not a high mileage car or anything but I get I'm thinking yeah the spring is not helped it a lot you know and that BMW would you replace them in pairs or would you just replace a 41 one of them car replace them in pairs that one's gone chances are that one might go soon just purely because obviously what's on it and S you know I wonder who did that I wonder who so my dad drove this car for one stint at Gumball and I have scratches on the wheel here and scratch on the wheel here yeah Dad you're getting the blame for that one because Matt was in the car so he witnessed it but other than those few issues overall I think we're looking good and we're not far away from getting this car perfect but what does Rich think and there we go I think personally we've not done too bad but thanks for checking over the car and we need a final rating every time we've done this we had a final rating if 10 out of 10 was a brand new showroom car and a zero out of 10 was how I picked it up smashed where would you rate it on that scale i' probably go about eight looking at it to be honest with you there were two eight out of 10 one from Porsche and one from BMW so thank you so much for that I'm I'm really happy with that and there's a few little things to sort but I'm sure we can get there there was a few fults that the guy found uh that rich found that we need to do one including this rear damper and we also have some finishing off modifications that we need to do as well but the M5 is almost complete now just these final touches to finish it off and from what it started off to what it is now I think the transformation is absolutely spot on look at it in the sun it actually look really good on the uh iPhone let's get it inside start the work Jimmy B is uh just cleaned the whole interior as well it is Super Fresh in here I think this is like one of the best parts of the M5 but I was actually thinking that this car didn't handle the best but after rich found out the shock absorber was leaking drastically on the back left that's kind of gave me a bit more of a confidence booster now because I think that because he's found that I know it's going to handle better when I put a new one on but we'll soon find out let's get it in this ramp look all this crazy stuff as well how is it doing that that's mental here is the pot in question now we ordered this from BMW open and it's one shock absorber which was around 500 quid I think it was expensive uh the BMW Tech said he probably will replace it in pairs but when the 500 quid I think I'm going to replace this one once it's only done 11,000 miles so I'm hoping it's just a oneoff the reason it is so expensive is because in the top here well I think it is there is an electrical connector there which adjusts the damping in depending on what mode you're in uh if you're in like sport mode obviously it goes harder Comfort mode it's softer there all fluid in it at least there's fluid in this one no fluid in that one I think we have to knock off this spring seat as well let's get it off now because this is rear if you're a member you can't get to the top of the strut without taking the parcel shelf off but we think and someone's mentioned that if you prize over this speaker cover we might be able to get to the top of the shock absorber so there we are there we are okay that's off um I don't think we've get to it through there but give it a go about t20s move them speakers and if we can get to the shocks there that will save us a big job taking all these seats out getting the parcel shelf out and causing a mess no so you can't get to it no you can't whoever said that you're a liar they're mistaken this is a thing so many people comment and some of you are really helpful and then some people I I don't know like I don't know where they get the information from but it's really hard to distinguish what comments are the right thing and what comments are the wrong thing but um someone did mention in a comment that we could get to it for here but I don't know maybe we've got a different car to what they were thinking but we we can't so it is literally seats forward parcel shelf out so good luck I've got a video to finish off so looks like that's your job dad you've got to move it forward in the boot so the seats so there's a few clips but don't lose them yeah they're missing they're missing yeah there's a clip missing there but I know you leave them out because it makes it lighter it makes it lighter yeah so what do we got to do don't know why do we have to take the seat Bel off so that it'll allow you to um lift that padding up look to get to the bolts of the Shocker look at that can you not take the St off without taking the wheel off not without scratching the wheel I've already been accused of doing that yeah I think it well [Music] only that's a 10,000 mil they don't make them like they used to should have been under warranty should it yeah is that not under warranty you have thought you'd have thought BMW would have changed that for you my warrant is void why what is it void Mt apart from KW suspension on the back adjustable Springs crash damaged it's tuned it's got down pipes exhaust induction kit other than that is fine we changed a few airb oh yeah and we did some work which has to be done by a professional but you are professional yeah I'm professional none of that's got to do with a shock absorber burst in there is it I think the Springs might have well yeah are you purposely trying to kill M me I wouldn't do that no not me either the m is are coming out this is why the seals broke why is it going towards me still cuz you said there you said he w p there is a special tool which the BMW guys said oh shall I get that then it's a hammer see we are BMW approved until my dad walks in this hmer ain't going to do it I've got to get the BMW approved one got it off we think the seal actually leaks because uh normally on stock suspension that shaft in the middle will be sitting on the regular uh seal for in the same position but what we've done after we've put the lowering spings on the shaft is sat lower so it could have like the bit it sitting lower on is upset the seal and it's just weeped out of it but this one shouldn't do that now because it should be used to sitting in the position that the KW ones too I think talking rubbish no I think that's why it did it no I don't the further down you go because of the the gas in there the fluid in there wouldn't there be more pressure the more you push it down there's more yeah there probably be more pressure putting the seal under more stress yeah but why ain't the other side gone it might be gone it might be gone he didn't tell me to replace him impairs he said it might be it might be on its way son yeah if my CV joint went on one side of my car what should I do replace it what about the other side what about the other side there's a special tool for that yeah it's called a hammer we have got to go to Lamborghini to pick the mercio up which you would have seen already in the previous video so we're going to leave my dad to it so by the time we get back it should be all done I think you reckon no no go get the Lamborghini okay looks like my dad has finished up new shock absorber on and he has raised it up a tad so I'm going to try and get the same measurement on the other side so we do need to go up a fair bit that hopefully should prolong the life of this one but we'll see all we're doing is twisting this up until we get roughly the same it's not the precise way you're supposed to do it because obviously different parts of the car weigh different so it might sit lower on one side but it's just the way I can get this done before we get do all the wheel alignment and make sure everything's straight oh I'm going to be a while tell me you put coilovers on every single car that you own without telling me you put coilovers on every single car that you own we are about pretty much at the same height both sides so we pop this wheel on and then we've got another modification we need to do to finish this off actually there's another fix as well it's quite a finicky one actually and here is the new ride height with the good shock absorber on so that should be all dialed in there's just a few Fastener and fixings that we need to do and also the connection for the airom which the BMW Tech pointed out which we probably we might get to later in the video as well but I think that's looking fairly level I've already driven it and it does drive a lot better now we've failed at this three times no two times so we've installed the carbon rear diffuser on the rear and the carbon front Splitter on the front with we explained in the main Channel video the first time we bought side skirts they were fake carbon they didn't look right second time we bought some carbon s SKS which didn't fit this time I think we've nailed it our 44 performance have got us these ones well they haven't got them I did buy them here we go ah oh yes got kick wow oh wait there's more up there oh what ticket to Silver ticket to Silver [Laughter] it's not it's not tickets to silverston M we have got like a little chain and that's nicer then can I have that cuz you had the kit C wait no there's more Matt there's more there's more there's more this is unreal oh just self self tapping that's nice of them though right side skirts we need to see if they actually fit also whilst we're here now that the M5 is pretty much on its final little bits of rebuilding this do we need to get another BMW on the channel because I'm kind of liking the look of the G Series BMWs especially Crush ons oh it is a lovely fit let's get them fitted I know modifications aren't for everyone and I understand that as well but I think like modifying a car people shouldn't be like scared of doing it because what other people think I think cuz I get it all the time people going say oh I hate these s SCS don't look right but why does that matter if it's your own car I don't know like why does I don't understand that then this doesn't look like any other M5 on the road that's the difference if it it looks now different to another M5 part top and that's why I like it some people like looking the same as everyone else oh probably shouldn't on yeah oh that is that's made a massive it looks finished now yeah like that actually looks it slots in from the front splitter that that's solid that's made a massive difference I can't believe how much of a difference that makes we have got an M5 to give away to Craig he bought three tickets £30 and he's taking away my M5 and 2,000 cash that's the worst Drive done all nerv and stuff on the phone I was shaking like Le reck your neighbors will enjoy that my L is going to be exactly the same she hates love C this is one of my dream cars oh are you going to keep it for AIT I'm going to keep it for a bit yeah as long as I can put it that way as long as I can what a win for cretti absolutely buzzing this is the best part about it see you later goodbye M5

Channel: Mat Armstrong MK2

Views: 8,723,657

Keywords: rebuilding, wrecked, crashed, damage, transformation, building, restoration, car, fixing, bought, Matt armstrong, mat Armstrong, bmw, bmw m5, m5, bmw m5 competition, competition

Id: UePhHI1vTsY

Length: 178min 8sec (10688 seconds)

Published: Wed Oct 25 2023