FULL BUILD: '65 C10 Fleetside - Straight Six, Patina Restomod

weathered and worn with unlimited potential today on truck tech we take delivery on our latest project low and slow find out what's in store for this 53 year old c10 [Music] hey hey welcome to truck tech as you can see we're outside the shop today with a good surprise waiting for us one of the golden rules in the automotive world is to never purchase a vehicle site on scene today we have done just that we have a new project truck that just showed up and this is the first time we get to see it in person man i think we lucked out so far well as you guys can tell this is a 1965 chevrolet c10 and it is wearing a beautiful original 100 authentic patina treatment it is nice [Music] we searched for some time to find a clean truck for our next build and this one comes to us from marshall texas it's very solid since it hasn't been eaten up by road salt snow or humidity you know of course you've got to have the old blanket style seat covered i wouldn't have it any other way i really would all those years in the sun have given this truck a unique and one-of-a-kind look you know probably most kids today wouldn't even know how to drive this truck oh three speed on the column probably not actually one of the first trucks i knew how to drive i learned how to drive 69 chevy k20 three on the tree six cylinder there you go brings back some memories man right now it has a 305 under the hood we're unsure of what engine it had originally but it was likely a 283 we'll get this truck inside and take a closer look so right off the bat it's fairly obvious this truck wasn't just pulled out of a hayfield somewhere along the way somebody's done a few odds and ends to get this truck running and driving in the first giveaway well it's the fuel tank on this era of truck it was originally mounted behind the driver's seat in fact ours is still there but it's probably just full of rust so it would have been easier just to mount an aftermarket tank behind the rear axle now one cool factor is the rear suspension on this truck utilizes a truck or trailing arm style suspension now we know this has performance potential because it's something that nascar actually used in the past as a certain style of suspension one other thing you may have noticed is this truck sits a little lower to the ground than a stock one would now they've done this by heating up the call spring so it sags just a little bit to get that stance nice and low now the proper way but it's something we'll handle we got very lucky underneath the truck because the cab floors and rockers everything's in pretty good shape especially considering it's over 55 years old the only exceptions there's a couple of small holes in the floor and rockered on the passenger side now we like the fact that this transmission utilizes the shifter on the steering column we want to do something similar even though it might not be this exact one now there's a lot of great potential in this truck it's really solid underneath but before we tear this thing apart we're going to get it out on the road see how it drives whenever you buy a project truck or a second hand engine the motor is definitely going to have some miles on it more often than not the seller is going to claim that it was driven by a little old lady to church on sunday mornings and it has only 10 000 miles on it but the real story is probably more like it was driven by a 16 year old kid and has had the snot beaten out of it so how do you know what the true story is because the health of an engine can definitely affect how much you should pay for it so today i'm going to show you a couple of quick tests that you can do to easily give a health report to an older engine if the engine is still in a vehicle or you can start it up on a stand the first thing i do is start the engine and run it for a little bit and see what comes out of the tailpipe now hopefully you don't see anything but if you do see some light bluish smoke that's a pretty good indication the engine could be burning oil either through the piston rings or worn valve seals this one looks pretty clean but there is a more scientific way to see how your engine is doing a compression tester is a tool that everybody should have in their arsenal and it'll tell you a lot about the internal health of your engine as the crankshaft rotates and the piston moves up and down it'll trap air from the atmosphere and compress it now in order to compress the air enough to make the engine run properly you have to have a lot of parts that are working up to par you have to have a good finish on the cylinder wall good piston rings good valve seals and of course a good head gasket to seal all that pressure inside the engine now depending on what style of engine you have and what modifications you might have done the reading might vary greatly but for a stock small block chevy like ours we expect a reading somewhere between 140 and 180 psi if everything is working perfectly now the first step to conducting a compression test is pulling all the spark plugs to let the engine crank over quickly each of the spark plugs need to be removed from the head next the power going to the ignition coil needs to be disconnected and the throttle plate needs to be held open for the duration of the test with the adapter threaded into the head and the gauge connected all right hit it we'll crank over the engine until the reading on the gauge stabilizes okay about 140 and record the value [Music] we'll repeat this process for all eight cylinders so we measured a range between 140 and 170 psi on all eight cylinders with the average being 157 now that's not great news but it's also not the end of the world it just means that 305 is worn out but at least we know what we're starting with inside that engine next one baloney [Music] new chevy in an old chevy so if he's passing us we're not passing it [Music] feel the bumps you know this was just before the days of air bags and traction control and abs and man we're lucky to have an fm radio don't think it works but we got one so that's [Music] good oh she sputtered a little bit dude i'm surprised it's got that bull though like that yeah well i like we said i don't think that engine's original it says it's a 305. no but that tran that transmission is about this big you know what i'm noticing now that we're getting all this kind of curvy back road this steering is like basically you kind of think of where you want to go you can just guess you point this wheel anywhere it's going where it wants to so what do we do to a truck like this i mean it's it's got a beautiful finish on the outside it runs fairly decent for what it is i mean what can we mess with maybe we get the heater work at the store okay that's a good point start with a heater uh you know man i don't think we need to go super crazy on horsepower or anything let's get it exciting for sure you know one of my things is i i've said this a lot before is i hate doing stuff that is common and that everybody has done you know the first thing people would say is all right throw an ls in it or it's because it already has a small block well you know put a newer small block in it or something like that to me that just it's not exciting you know what about maybe like a six cylinder you know they had a lot of straight six yeah 235s 250s you know the 292. you know we could try to look around to see if we can find one of those yeah maybe get on the bigger end of the straight sixes with that 292 range and build that up do something a little different with it i don't know [Music] so the biggest question everybody's going to ask us is are you going to leave the patina so let's get that out of the way right now i think the answer that is yes i think we're leaving it we're not touching it maybe maybe we'll have a little surprise here there yeah you know it took the last 54-55 years for this truck to kind of earn its color and earn basically how it looks which is really unique and hard to duplicate so i say we just leave it yeah i'm down with that all right what do you say we burn the rubber off these bad boys don't stop baby even got smoke on that one that's the old one tired fire one tower one that we called it [Music] after months of searching we just picked up our newest project truck this 1965 chevrolet c10 short box fleet side straight out of marshall texas the million dollar question is what direction are we going to take with the build of this truck because there are a lot of different options we already know we're not going to be messing with the exterior since it already looks perfect in our opinion there's no need to change anything however the powertrain and suspension those areas could certainly use some attention we nicknamed this truck project low and slow and to help it live up to that there are a few ways we can go about it a common method is to replace these steel coil springs with an airbag suspension this will give you a nice adjustable ride height for when you really want to slam those rockers on the ground when parked all you have to do push button when you're ready to run now the other thing we could do we install a coil over suspension system now this won't be adjustable but it'll greatly improve the suspension geometry and the handling of this classic american pickup also we want to keep the rustic appearance on the outside we don't want to touch it but we do want the underneath to look nice and clean so the first thing we need to do is get this frame ripped out get it prepped for a coating pull it back a little coming back i think this car to hold it uh we gonna find out that'll work oh yeah we're golden all right bro let's check this thing out i guess the big question is how's the frame look man not bad at first glance i mean a little bit of pitting here and there nothing we didn't really expect from a 50 some odd year old truck well speaking of 50 some years old still wearing a chambered muffler complete with no hanger and exhaust i like it i like it all right so i guess what the next step is get the cabin done yeah let's find these body bolts and yank it out all right go ahead ah there we go [Music] it's just a simple matter of removing the battery getting the cooling system drained and the radiator removed i'll disconnect the brake line the shift linkage at the column and remove a few wires so very nice then we'll get lift arms in place and get this cross the old cab out of here so if you're ever at home by yourself on the holidays and you see a couple guys outside carrying these you're probably about to have a whole lot of fun what you trying to try out for the wet bandits [Music] [Music] so you can really learn a lot about the history of a pickup truck just by yanking off the body and taking a look at the frame one thing i've learned is this truck was probably used really hard on a farm or a ranch now check out some of the localized damage in this area right here normally guys will come and put a tow hook right here so this truck was probably stuck in the mud but he came along with his tractor hooked up a chain and just gave it a real hard yank and caused some pretty good damage right here but nothing we can't fix same thing over here there's a couple of small stress cracks that have probably just developed from years and years of hard use and vibration yeah man also check out the size of this transmission that is tiny super small all right well let's get this thing out of here get that cab off the lift let's have at it we've got a great looking classic project truck over there and right now it's a little bit useless since it won't be driving anywhere for quite a while we've been teasing you guys for some time now about which direction we're going to take with this build and right now we're going to tell you the plan we're going to lower this truck with a qa1 coilover conversion system that'll have parts for both the rear and the front it comes with lower and upper control arms and of course coilover shocks that'll be mounted on all four corners that'll bring this truck down four inches in the front and six inches in the rear which in our opinion is the perfect height for a mid 60s chevy c10 absolutely and while you were gathering suspension components i was working on brakes and steering now as you can tell with the cab off on this truck there's still a lot of oem components and some of that these old drum brakes now we're not going to keep this power plant we know we're going to do something high performance even though we won't go too crazy we still want to stop so these got to go we went over to summit racing and picked up this big brake kit this will allow for better cooling and quicker stopping in order to get that bolted on had to get these spindles too so all right well the way i see it we've got two different choices we could get dirty we could bolt on some of these parts on that frame or what i think is a better option we got project red tide over here it's got a full tank of gas and i've got the keys why don't we go for a drive i like that plant it's one of the more popular trucks to restore the 60 to 66 chevy c10 and today on truck tech ours is back for blasting and chassis assembly plus our guys unveil the unusual power plant between the frame rails what will it be [Music] welcome to the shop we recently picked up the 65 c10 project low and slow but now we look far wide for this thing and finally found that classic patina arm we were looking for now this truck has great bones to build on and the appearance well it's exactly what we're after we're not going to change a thing but the drivetrain parts that came with this truck they had seen better days so we picked up a couple of goodies and we'll get to those just a little bit later on but first we need a good foundation to start this build from and it's not like we're building a full-blown racer here so this stock chassis will work just fine it was just a little bit dirty for our taste so we stripped it completely down had it sandblasted and a fresh coat a semi-gloss powder coat applied and if this is the first time you're seeing our project here's a quick look back at where it all began we broke the number one rule of truck buying and pulled the trigger sight unseen since this truck had spent its life in sunny marshall texas we figured it would be pretty solid even though it's well over 50 years old we brought it inside the shop gave it a once-over and we were pleasantly surprised to find the sheet metal was in very good shape for its age the truck was mostly original with the only major changes being the torch coils and a later model 305 small block however we did get the impression this truck was slapped together for a quick sale you'll find a lot of interesting wiring solutions when you're tearing apart an old truck here's a perfect example the last person that owned this vehicle moved the fuel tank from behind the seat to the back of the frame so obviously they had to extend the wire for the fuel tank sending it check out how they did it they started out by running the wire through a rust hole in the inner rocker and then they ran the wire up to the bottom of the bed and looped it around another rust hole now if you know anything about electricity you'll know that voltage does not cooperate with ground now this wire doesn't have any power going through it but if it did this would be a direct short whenever that insulation will chafe through so there's like a million ways you could have done it better than this but here's a perfect example of how not to run wiring since the truck mechanically checked out we decided to hit the road and see how this old girl performed and it was a blast to roll through the gears with a three on the tree although the calls did make the ride a little bumpy feel the bumps and even though our truck is a more deluxe model by today's standards it's very bare bones you know this was just before the days of air bags and traction control and abs and man we're lucky to have an fm radio don't think it works but we got one so that's good and we couldn't end the shakedown without one very important test what do you say we burn the rubber off these bad boys why not oh yeah don't stop baby we got smoke on that one that's the old one tire fire one tower one that we called it with all the fun out of our system we got right to work to begin the tear down process we removed the bumpers unbolted the bed disconnected some hoses and wiring underneath the hood and lifted the cab off getting down to the rolling chassis with all the drivetrain removed we took a trip to blast from the past in lebanon tennessee where they strip and powder coat a wide range of parts for various applications how's it going vance good to see you again all right absolutely the powder coat process starts out with the crushed glass media which removes all the rust and corrosion once prepped and in the booth the dry powder is electrostatically applied this allows it to stick to the surface but will still require a quick bake in the oven to fully cure and this is the finished product nice and clean we chose the semi-gloss black powder coating for its durability and it's going to last a long time now with a little pre-planning we knew we were going to have to do some frame modifications and with the style of suspension we're going with this front coil over is going to come right through this cross member so we had to cut out some holes we chose to do before the powder because we didn't want to cut into it after we took the same approach on the rear with the c notch our reinforcement also includes an upper coil over mount and a lower panhard bar mount that will keep the axle located side to side this kit is actually designed to be 100 bolt on with the bed still on the truck but we just figured since we're blasting and coating the frame anyway why not weld it in ahead of time for a nice slick look that makes this chassis 100 ready to bolt on some parts we got some unboxing to do i got the scissors next putting the low in low and slow we have two goals for the suspension on project low and slow our 65 c10 first is to get it sitting closer to the ground and second is to improve its handling we didn't want to mess around with the hassle or complexity of an adjustable air suspension system so instead we're installing a qa1 coilover conversion and it's all based around these tubular upper and lower control arms that'll correct the caster issue that these trucks have when you lower them you can run up to seven degrees the coil overs are double adjustable they have a 750 pound spring on the front a 200 pound spring on the rear and you can adjust both compression and rebound valving now this kit does run a later model 73 to 87 style ball joint which requires you run a later model spindle so we picked up this two inch drop spindle from summit racing which when combined with the control arms and the coil overs will lower the front of this truck five inches and out back the stock truck arms are replaced with these beefy seven gauge bars that have an included pinion angle adjustment it also comes with a longer panhard bar and a front mounting bracket with multiple mounting locations so you can really fine tune that anti-squat round it all out kit comes with these heavy duty front rear sway bars and that's to keep the truck planted hard when cornering now first thing we got to do is finish mounting these lower control arms the upper spring mount bolts onto the cross member and the frame with some existing holes and new provided hardware the lower coil over mount is bolted to the control arm with a spacer and the coilover shock slides from underneath the crossmember and attaches to the spring mount with a through bolt and some more spacers the control arm pivots up to meet the other end of the coilover and all the hardware is tightened up up top the dished spacers slide onto the mounting point and the control arm slides into place [Music] the lower bump stop and bracket bolt onto the control arm and the spindle attaches to the lower ball joint pop up on that frame for me some muscle well i don't know about that with little assistance the springs are compressed then the upper ball joint can be connected you caught some threads on there yeah we're good man thanks all right my job is done so there are a lot of important suspension components that use a castle nut and cotter pin to make sure that the nut doesn't back off over time there are some slots in the top of the nut that have to engage with a hole in the bolt and you slide a cotter pin through just to make sure everything stays tight now one thing that is very very important is you never want to loosen a castle nut to make sure that the cotter pin will line up you always go tighter once the proper torque is reached continue to turn the nut until the next slot lines up with the hole insert the cotter pin and bend out the ends over at the table we'll attach the urethane bushings to the sway bar slide on the brackets and loosely tighten the hardware the spherical end links attach to the sway bar mind grabbing that end over there absolutely and the whole thing slides under the front end and first connects to the lower control arms and finally the brackets attach to the frame well with just a couple of bolts we have a great looking chassis and we accomplished both of our goals it sits lower to the ground and its handling is greatly improved now we're ready to start on the rear and that all begins with the main piece of the puzzle that dirty greasy rear axle we're not going to leave it like that so hey let's get this thing cleaned up and get some paint on it you got it next austin has a blast now we drug this axle out here to get it cleaned up before i take it on in that paint booth and slap some fresh paint on it and to get the years of grit grime and rust off this thing i got just the fix to make that easy this is the db500 from dustless blasting a self-contained service prep machine that's both efficient and environmentally friendly and it will remove virtually any coating from any surface without creating a huge plume of dust so we'll fire this bad boy up show you how it works everyone knows what a messy job blasting can be dustless blasting is exactly the opposite water mixes with a media which keeps the blasting material to a confined area without flying all over the place plus unlike working with dry media we don't have to stick our head through a cloud of debris to see the axle we're using crushed glass media which is efficient at removing rust paint and scale from a slew of surfaces this works great on a variety of metals including stainless steel and aluminum it even strips surfaces like concrete brick and wood but an unseen benefits to one of these units is its money making potential dustless boston.com has it all laid out from setting up your business to pricing out jobs all the way down to how to market and advertise your own mobile dustless blasting service to protect our axle for future rust we stopped over at single source located in nashville tennessee where they supplied us with the right material for the job i'm mixing up a direct-to-metal epoxy primer with the catalyst at a two to one ratio which is perfect for our freshly blasted axle so i have this gun set up where i can shoot sideways invert it upside down you name it just gotta purge a cup first shoot a test pattern and spray some paint a quick pattern check and now we'll lay down two wet coats and let it flash off for about 30 minutes for a top coat i'm using single stage polyurethane enamel base it mixes six to one to one with hardener and a catalyst this gives us protection and color all in one shot and it's hot rod black baby three coats and let cure the rear suspension assembly begins with the trailing arms attaching to the cross member since i'm such a gentleman already bolted these brackets on for you man some girls can be lucky when she marries you the rear axle attaches with some 5 8 inch bolts the pinion angle adjusters attach the axle is raised the coil overs are connected and the panhard bar and frame brace will locate the axle side to side the very last thing we'll do out back is install the sway bar then once the truck is fully assembled and the weights on the ground we'll make some minor adjustments to the pinion angle and the front pivot points but for very little effort the handling and ride quality of this truck is greatly improved in fact so easy to install even someone like you who grew up working on covered wagons can figure out how to put it together not everybody could be born on a lobster boat up in maine but that about wraps up the suspension on this thing we still got to throw some gears in the rear and assemble that axle that leaves project low and slow living up to at least half its name you'll take care of the slow part too right i'll take care of that there's an old saying in new england which goes something like if the brakes ain't gonna stop your car you better not head down to the habit cause you're gonna get wet you're a one with fella well that's probably true but i would still say that brakes are one of the most important systems to have on your vehicle in fact i always say never leave home without them our 65 chevy c10 was originally equipped with drum brakes on all four corners it's a pretty antiquated system but they work pretty simply there's a hydraulic wheel cylinder that's attached to the backing plate and whenever you depress the brake pedal hydraulic pressure forces open the shoes now this friction area right here presses against a rotating drum and it's that friction that'll slow your vehicle down like i said drum brakes are very old and they're not very efficient and we're going to be adding some extra horsepower to that truck so we want to make sure we can always slow down so we're going to be installing a disc brake conversion kit that we picked up from summit racing and it all starts with these 13-inch two-piece rotors has a cast iron outer and aluminum inner they have a six piston caliper that will apply pressure to the pads it also comes with an aluminum wheel hub brackets to attach to the cpp spindles and of course the pads that we need to make the friction and all the hardware that's needed to complete the installation the rotor is attached to the hat with a series of quarter inch bolts and a small dab of red thread locker once they're all started they are torqued to 155 inch pounds next the wheel bearing is packed with grease until the rollers are fully coated with the inside bearing set in the hub a seal is driven into place the outer bearing is packed and the hub assembly slides onto the spindle a slotted washer and castle nut hold the hub in place a cotter pin stops the nut from backing out a dust cover is installed and the rotor slides over the wheel studs the caliper bracket attaches to the back of the spindles with a predetermined thickness of shims and another dab of thread lock with the bolts tight two more shams go on to the mounting studs the caliper slides on the nuts are tightened and the pads slide into the caliper all right with just a little bit of effort we've been able to greatly improve the stopping power of this 65 c10 so now regardless of how fast we're going whether it be on the track or on the street we know that we'll be able to safely bring this truck to a stop and just remember when upgrading to a big brake kit it will limit the size of wheels you can run for instance this kit will only work with some 17-inch wheels and we'll probably run 18. tell you what i know a guy we can get some 22 by 14 forged wheels with maybe like a 420 style tire you following your head or something obviously i'm gonna handle the wheels on this you know what get back to work next there's a straight six in our future when it came to selecting a power plant for our 65 c10 we had one goal in mind now it's for it to be different the oddball we didn't have any crazy expectations of making high horsepower our thing was let's just make it faster than stop since just about every truck we build here has some sort of a v8 under the hood we decided for project low and slow we're going to be installing a chevy 292 straight six now it's kind of an oddball but these were primarily used in heavy duty and commercial applications and from the factory they put down 165 horsepower and 280 pounds of torque which is not a bad start but we do have some upgrades in mind where we'll be able to pump up the output of this engine and it just might involve some boost to back up to our 292 we picked up this tremec tko5 speed from american powertrain this will give us a nice wide gear ratio for quick acceleration but still maintaining those low rpms at highway speeds american powertrain not only offers high quality transmissions but their main focus is to supply you with everything you need for an entire conversion this kit includes the bell housing cross member clutch assembly and even that classical wide shifter knob also is an entire hydraulic clutch kit with stainless lines and master cylinder lastly fiberglass high hump trans tunnel this will give you the clearance you need for mounting the trans installs easily and give you a clean look let's get this thing mocked up we're not installing the motor for good at the moment since it'll have to come out to be rebuilt later on for now we'll install the bell housing on the trans skip the flywheel and clutch and go straight to mating the transmission to the engine your transmission is too high let me uh lower the transmission you lower the table lift her up we picked up some adapter mounts from 12bolt.com to attach our 292 to the small block chevy frame stance once we have the tail shaft right where we need it lock her down dead the mounts are tightened up [Music] and the adjustable x factor cross member is lined up we'll mark and drill two holes in the side of the frame slide the cross member back in and bolt it in for good completing the mock-up install of the 292 tko combo in our 65 c10 brothers trucks offers a wide range of stereo and speaker components for your 1947 to 87 chevy truck case in point this is what we picked up installing project low and slow it all starts with this 300 watt digital am fm tuner with integrated bluetooth it maintains that factory appearance that we love and it's also vehicle specific so you're not cutting into that dashboard we grab these six by nines and the under the seat sub crank out that boom lastly custom kick panels and maintain that air vent kick out the jams and visit brotherstrucks.com how do you add go to an industrial straight six turbo size it today on truck tech low and slow gets this power adder plus is that austin ruining a fine patina finish the man with a plan will spill the beans how about you get out of here [Music] today on truck tech we're going to be spending some long overdue time on our 1965 patina c10 that we nicknamed low and slow now it has been a minute since we worked on this project and i'm excited to get back jumping in it but i'm beginning to get just a little wee bit concerned about this name low and slow what's wrong with the name well low i totally dig you know this new suspension is going to drop that stance down right where we'd like to see it but slow i mean have you been breathing in too many diesel fumes or something you need a doctor because i'm staring at an inline 292 right okay well a couple of things number one the nickname is sort of intentionally misleading because you should know me by now even though i do get a couple of diesel themes every now and then you should know i don't like to go slow number two yeah this engine it'll never make a thousand horsepower but i do have a couple of old tricks up the sleeve which will really boost up the output of this engine make the truck scoot down the road in a hurry i guess i'll have the trusty on this one and i'm excited to see what you got up these tiny little sleeves now this project has come a long way since we first started but it's got a long way to go we bought this truck side unseen and we're very pleased to find out how nice of a patina it had on its surface it came to us from marshall texas where the sun is always shining so the elements had plenty of time to work their magic on the paint without completely rotting away the metal and this truck would actually run and drive and let me tell you it was an experience the manual shift on the column was a throwback for sure which made this truck an absolute blast even though the suspension was completely shot the engine had a slight miss and the bench seat was like riding on a horse-drawn wagon feel the bump so we didn't waste any time on low and slow we got right to work on tearing her down we're not going to be touching much of anything on the exterior but we did want to address the frame so the first thing was to remove that bedding cab off the chassis once it was all stripped down we sent it off to get a new coat of semi-gloss black powder coat and then built out the frame with an all-new suspension which will sit nice and low to the ground and greatly improve the handling of this 55 year old pickup finally we paired a gm 292 straight 6 with a tremec 5 speed from american powertrain which will give this truck truly a unique driving experience first produced in 1963 this engine could be found all the way through the mid 80s even produced in foreign markets now you wouldn't typically find it in your average everyday pickup but more likely that light duty commercial application that be delivery vans cargo trucks of the light and that's for good reason it's solid reliable horsepower and also fuel efficient we chose it for two additional reasons one in 65 it was actually an option from gm and two well it's just vastly different from that normal ls swap you used to see it on these classic trucks coming in at 153 horse 292 foot pound of torque well it can only get better from there that's right we can always add a whole lot more power and if you guys are not used to seeing a chevy straight six the cylinder head might look just a little different from what you're used to seeing on modern engines and that's because the exhaust and intake ports are on the same side of the cylinder head and the manifolds sort of intertwine now to add power we need to get more air into and out of this engine and the stock manifolds just aren't going to cut it with the manifolds laid out on the table you can see the interesting way that they stack these together the intake sits on top and the intake ports are sort of staggered in the middle and the exhaust manifold sits below and fills in the spaces in between now this engine was designed to be very fuel efficient and not make a whole lot of horsepower and as such everything is really small and restrictive has a single intake port and on top of which sits a single barrel carburetor and on bottom you have a single two inch exhaust port now this whole setup is very restrictive and it's not going to move a whole lot of air so instead we went to 12bolt.com and picked up one of their split exhaust manifold kits the runners are much bigger cross-sectional areas so they'll move more air and each exhaust port is two and a half inches for the induction we went to summit racing and picked up an offenhauser aluminum four-barrel intake again it's all about bigger ports and moving a greater volume of air now there is one more important part of the puzzle that's going to finish up our horsepower build i just got to get it next lt's the man with the v-band plan there are a lot of different ways we could pump up the output of our 292. my poweradder of choice has always been the turbo so i went to summit racing and did some shopping now this is a borgwarner s366 turbo and it's a great charger that's affordable and durable so it'll work perfect for our application and here's some of the specs it has a 66 millimeter inducer on the compressor wheel a 73 millimeter exducer on the turbine wheel a t4 undivided turbine housing with an 088 ar ratio now this thing will ultimately support a lot more power than we're going to be making with that 292 but it'll be right in its peak efficiency zone somewhere between four and 500 horsepower which is our ultimate goal now the exhaust manifolds that we ordered they come with this donut style of gasket now that works great in a naturally aspirated application and gives you a nice leak-free seal however when you're turbo charging there's a lot of heat and pressure that's going to be in the exhaust and these donuts they'll just blow out so summit also sent me a couple of two and a half inch stainless steel v-bands now this manifold is actually made from ductile iron which means i can weld to it so my first order of business is to chop off this two bolt flange and weld on some v-bands so i know we told you guys that we weren't going to touch the exterior of this truck after all this patina is what makes this project so cool in the first place but we kicked it around and after some thought consideration we changed our minds we decided let's add a little pizazz in one specific spot that's that rusty old roof we're gonna paint it and we're gonna drape it all the way down the backside of this body and end up somewhere right on this body line and as you all know with a good paint job comes a lot of good prep work [Music] shower [Music] truck wants to come with it [Music] back at the welding table our 292 manifolds are going under the knife the two bolt flanges are being cut off to make way for a v-band [Music] basically just trying to get this flange to sit nice and flat on the manifold with as few gaps as possible i think we're there so i'm going to do is clean up the outside just a little bit so it welds on nice and clean we're good to go once the surface is flat and clean i can start by tack welding the v-band ring to the manifold i'm using our forney 220 ac dc tig set at 120 amps for the thicker material and since i'm joining cast to stainless i'm using a 309 filler material i'm also running my go-to number 12 cup and gas lens which will keep the weld area properly shielded with argon and my post flow is set to seven seconds all right with just a little bit of effort we have ourselves some manifold that'll have a nice leak-free seal now if you've never seen how a v-band clamp works they're actually kind of cool the ceiling surface is made up of these two flat areas that just sort of index together and there's a clamp that holds the whole thing together now on this particular style of v-band there's a small ridge around the inside that indexes both halves together so they can't wiggle around but like i said a little bit of effort a little bit of work this thing will last a lifetime and it's guaranteed to never leak next goodbye rusty jones we like showing off our new equipment here power nation this is the db 500 mobile blasting system from dustless blasting it features a 49 horsepower turbocharged diesel engine that provides 185 cfm of airflow at high pressure now what makes this system different is the media is actually mixed with water which has multiple benefits let's get it fired up but we can blast the rust off the roof of this c10 the sand and water combination gives dustless blasting its name the man in the mask it's less messy than traditional systems i can actually see what i'm doing since the water keeps the particles on the protective plastic below not floating in the air and as a result i can work in my street clothes and don't need to cover up with any additional gear now you can clearly see this machine has no problem stripping away all this rust i mean this is nice clean bare metal compared to all that rusty pitted side over there a few different options we could have done we could be all day in the prep booth with that d.a sander ripping through sandpaper left and right and putting up a bunch of dust and rust in the air having to have a mask on and we'd be covered i'm really not that wet and i'm not that dirty as long as my eyes and hands are protected well it's easy [Music] you can use all sorts of blasting media we're using crushed glass which has a consistency of sand but you can also dry blast and soda blast because of the unit's air cooler and moisture separator another nice feature are the auxiliary airport so you can run any air tools you might need now can everyone afford one of these units probably not but if you own your own body shop and tired of hiring out all these blasting chores why not bring in a house and reap the profits yourself if you're an average guy or gal want to start your own mobile blasting business this ideal setup and dustless blasting will set you up with all the materials you need to get you on your way to becoming your own boss so what's the story man i thought you blasted this thing the hood's still all rusty i did a half of a job i see that and i gotta say this starboard side engine has a lot more power than that port side huh what do you want a boat so all kidding aside i have to say it looks like that dustless blaster cleaned off the roof in a hurry you know i'm always nervous when we blast something you guys at home know the risks whenever you're stripping paint you never know what's underneath luckily we have a metal roof and not just a big block of swiss cheese yeah there was more than enough material there that stayed where this thing is totally salvageable a few minor points here and there where we got a few pin holes but nothing we can't fix with simple metal working techniques yeah i mean it looks like the worst of it is kind of right along this edge where the drip rail meets the roof skin there's a couple of small holes but like you said you know mig welder take care of that in a hurry that's it and these drip rails are not broken to the point that where they're hanging down or anything so we're not going to touch them too you start fixing that there's no telling where you'll stop well speaking of stopping i see that you stopped your sandblasting kind of halfway down the back and you've stripped the roof as well so help me get inside your head and kind of understand your theory there because this is a patina truck and you're obviously going to be painting on the roof yeah definitely we bought this for its charm and it's natural character right but we're still going to class it up just a little bit with new bright work custom touches here and there so why not blast off all this patina on the roof i know you haters out there are gonna hate but we're gonna add our little flare brand new paint well see that's where i think you're wrong actually because you said patina on the roof this was just rust you know to me patina is paint and rust that have kind of intermingled you know up here is just a solid block of brown rust so i don't see anything wrong with blasting that off and put a nice shiny cap on this thing and really set it apart from the crowd i obviously agree so how about you get out of here and let me prep this so i can get some primer on it so it doesn't rust again well i have some cool work to do with the turbo building and i'll let you take care of this boring bodywork sort it out [Music] next protecting that bare metal welcome back to truck tech i'm laying down two coats of epoxy primer on our cab's newly blasted surface this will prevent that flash rust until we have time to paint now i bet you're wondering why we chose to use a white primer you guessed it we're going to be painting this thing a super light color just can't tell you what it is yet when it comes to building or fabricating components to an exhaust system i like to think of it as a game of connecting the dots now the first job is just figuring out where the dots are going to be the first two were easy those are the v bands that we welded on the exhaust manifolds earlier now the next dot well that's the turbo charger so we need to find a place to mount it now the first space we could go well there's a lot of room right here between the engine block and the frame rail we could easily plumb the exhaust in but the challenge becomes getting the air into and out of the turbocharger now the next option we could use is do a low remote style mount of the turbo system now there's plenty of space down here between the transmission and the frame rail and a couple different ways you could clock the turbocharger but the challenge is you have a much longer run into and out of the turbo for the air and that's going to lead to a little bit more lag not only that you have an oiling system you need to consider the pressurized oil needs to make it all the way to the turbo and then we need to run scavenge pump to get it back to the engine that's just a lot more complication than we really need so i'm gonna show you a third option and that's the one that we're gonna do since the intake and exhaust manifolds are both on the driver's side of a chevy straight six i figured the passenger side is the best place to mount our turbo since it's pretty much wide open so i went ahead and mocked up a bracket that's going to bolt onto the side of the block right where the motor mounts go and this is going to provide a nice sturdy place to mount the turbo charger now it's up high it's out of the way and there's plenty of space to run a charge pipe out the front a crossover underneath and the exhaust out the back plus the oil drain is a straight shot to the pan so the only thing i need to do is build a crossover to get the exhaust gases from your vehicle's cylinder head to the rear bumper the standard material for a long time has been steel tubing it has a high resistance to heat and is pretty inexpensive to manufacture and it can be stainless steel mild or even aluminized now in order to minimize the amount of leaks that are possible manufacturers try to keep their exhaust systems in as long of pieces as possible but in the real world you have to be able to service your vehicle so large chunks have to be able to be removed which means there are some connections so today we're going to go over the most basic flanges and connectors that you find in a standard or an aftermarket exhaust system the exhaust manifold connection is the first place that needs to be removed and the standard for a long time was this graphite composite donut now it's a fairly soft material that has a high resistance to heat now this is part of the cast exhaust manifold and this flange will go over a flare on the exhaust pipe a couple of bolts hold it together and that's a nice leak-free seal that can easily be removed a ball and socket type connection is popular in most aftermarket exhaust systems now there's actually no ceiling material it's just one pipe has a flare in it and one pipe has a ball now these are nice because there's a little bit of flexibility in the connection and again two bolts hold it nice and tight and you've got a leak-free seal when you buy an aftermarket exhaust system like a cat-back it often comes to you in many smaller pieces this has to fit inside of a shipping box now this is a representation of the most common type of connection that you find on just about any cat back it has a couple of slots on the end of the pipe and a flare at the end so one pipe just simply slides inside the other now there's two different ways you can seal up that connection and they're both called a band clamp you have a narrow style with a single nut and a little bit wider style now these generally seal just a little bit better but they cost a little bit more now you also have another alternative and that's welding because like i said earlier these exhaust systems they can kind of move around a little bit so if you have your own welder just take a couple of minutes and weld that joint up that way you're guaranteed not to have any leaks a v band clamp is very common in higher end aftermarket exhaust systems and there are three parts the two rings that you weld onto either end of the pipe and the clamp that holds the whole thing together now this particular style of clamp has a quick release mechanism that's built in so you can easily reach down and open up the clamp now there are different styles as well this one does not have the locating ring so you have a slight amount of flexibility in the fit up and then you have a marmon flange this is most popular when it comes to having a down pipe that attaches to a turbocharger much like a v band this outer ring will weld to the exhaust pipe and the seal is made up of these two surfaces but instead of a flat this has about a 20 degree taper and the connection is sealed up with the same exact style of clamp now we're really just scratching the surface but these are the most popular types of exhaust connections that you're gonna find if you were to dub an impact wrench a little hammer that could you'd be referring to this little pint-sized number right here this is matt cotool's new half-inch stubby push-button air impact with 700 best-in-class pound breakaway torque it features a variable throttle that allows for precise control in those hard to reach places and also a rear dial regulator that adjusts torque output in the forward position this unit comes with a two year warranty visit matcotools.com for more one key ingredient to any truck upgrade is an exhaust system that performs well but it has to sound great too our sweepstake silverado sports the new hooker blackheart performance exhaust it's a cat-back design that features a three-inch intermediate pipe dual two and a half inch tailpipes and a straight flow-through design muffler that'll give an aggressive sound both on and off the throttle and you can pair it with a set of hooker shorty headers both are made from stainless steel and have been engineered to provide maximum exhaust velocity visit holley.com for more modern diesel fuels are not always the cleanest these days every fuel supplier adds different materials to help with lubricity and sometimes these additives can lead to unwanted deposits in your engine or fuel injectors hot shot secret diesel extreme is a new powerful formula designed to clean and boost engines to their peak performance power just add a dose every 6 000 miles to clean your tank lines injector tips all while removing moisture find your nearest retail outlet by visiting hotshotsecret.com hi patna what you've been up to well i pretty much have the hot side of the turbo kit sorted out i have one pipe left to put between the rear manifold and the merge then it's just a matter of figuring out where to put the wastegate but this thing is well on its way looking good and that brings us one step closer to putting the cab on this thing make it look like a truck again that's right and if you guys have any questions about any parts we use be sure to check out our website powernationtv.com thanks for watching truck tech we'll catch you next week today low and slow's cab hits the frame but not before we put power to both wheels plus now i know what you thinking painting this beautiful patina truck don't call me crazy just yet wait till you see what we got planned [Music] as you can tell we have the c10 chassis sitting on the lift here and we are ready to dive back in this project and start making some progress we have a great head start frame is powder coated satin black we got the suspension assembled a turbocharged 292 sitting up front and a tremec 5-speed that backs it up our goal by the end of the day is to have that cab bolted back onto this frame for good now before we jump the gun and get ahead of ourselves i still have to shoot some proper paint on that and i might as well do it while it's off the frame so i'm not masking all this up and we get overspray everywhere but i also am excited to see this thing rolling on its own four wheels all right well to make that happen though we got to finish building out this rear axle because right now it's just an empty housing but the parts are here and i have a deal for you i'll get my hands greasy i'll handle this rear end all the grunt work right and to help you out i'll keep my greasy hands far away from that cab as possible it's a deal i'll take help me push this out before you jump into that though all right man serious horsepower behind this thing dripping i had to point the camera at the guy's on the wall a little bit to the left a little bit to the right a little bit to the right yep perfect [Music] as power makes its way from the engine to the rear tires it first has to pass through a differential now this is kind of basic information but the reason we need a differential is because when you go around corners the inside wheel always spins at a slower speed than the outside now if you didn't have a differential the inside wheel would just be skidding along from the factory our truck was equipped with an open differential now this is the most basic style that there is and it does nothing for high performance driving now if you ever encounter a loss of traction when you're on the power only one wheel is going to spin and you're not going anywhere so we're going to be replacing it along with everything else that's inside our rear axle with parts that we got from summitracing.com now for the differential we started out with a detroit true track now this is a helical gear style limited slip differential and it's great for high performance driving because it applies nice even split in torque between both rear wheels but it still allows for that differential of speed while you're cornering now for the gear set we chose a 4 11 to 1 ratio which is going to provide a nice blend between acceleration and a lower rpm when you're cruising down the highway we picked up a forged pinion yoke some new axle shafts with a five on five bolt pattern that'll match the front a master install kit which comes with all the bearings shims seals and hardware that we'll need to complete the installation along with a new ta performance diff cover that has these reinforcement caps that will go onto the bearings and help keep everything in place our first order of business is to get the ring gear onto the new carrier [Music] since it's a tight fit i'll use the 12 bolts to evenly pull the ring gear onto the carrier tighten them all up and it's off to the press where the carrier bearings are installed [Music] back at the axle the outer pinion race is driven in with a soft aluminum tool followed by the inner [Music] one of the most critical steps to setting up a rear end is getting your pinion depth spot on now that's actually controlled by a small shim that's stuck to the table that sits right in between the head of the pinion and the bearing now it's going to take you several different tries to get the exact thickness since there's really no easy way to calculate the thickness right off the bat unless you have a bunch of really specialized and really expensive tools so trial and error is sort of the preferred method now that means you have to have the bearing that goes on and off several times and if you have your final bearing and you move it with a press on and off and on and off you could possibly damage it so they sell setup bearings which are basically the same thing as a regular bearing except the inside has been ground out just enough to make it easily slide on so we can check our measurements and make another adjustment the pinion and setup bearing are slid into place and since i don't have a mock-up bearing for the outer it gets gently tapped in place with a hammer and metal sleeve the yoke goes on and the nut is temporarily tightened down until there's slight rotational drag next the carrier slides into place with some shims and the caps are tightened down just by feel and sound i can tell that the backlash is almost right where it needs to be but i'm going to focus on that later first i need to get pinion depth squared away now they do make some really expensive pinion depth tools which are kind of complicated to use so unless you have one of those you're not going to nail it the first time around well instead of an expensive tool we're going to use a really cheap one some gear marking compound and a brush all we do is apply it to a couple different teeth and rotate the ring and pinion with just a little bit of drag on it and the pattern where those two gears are actually touching and rubbing against one another will tell us whether we need to add or subtract from the pinion depth mother of pearl low and slow in the paint booth that's next welcome back to truck tech i'm doing a final wipe down on this cabin preparation to shoot some primer now if you look close you can tell time has definitely taken its toll on this panel and pitted it in pretty well but there's a few ways we could address that we could skim coat this whole thing with filler then go ahead and sand it back down to that metal and the filler will only be filling in those tiny little holes some guys actually prefer this method because you're not really building thickness however it's very labor intensive i'm going to choose to shoot some dtm high bill primer on this and will achieve the same results [Music] the high build is pretty thick so we're not going to use a strainer it pours directly in the cup the primer mixes two parts to one part catalyst and a half part reducer [Music] it's always good practice to shoot a test pattern even though it's just primer i do this every time for consistency and repetition it's the basis of good fundamentals this is the time to figure out your movements distance from the panel speed of the gun when and how you're going to move the ladder this way when you come back with paint all the issues are worked out and you can focus on the paint hitting the panel [Music] after letting this hot build primer cure overnight we push the cab over into the prep booth where i can get a good head start on blocking out these panels [Music] baby after about 16 hours of blocking all the pits are gone these panels are laser straight with nice soft edges i think she'll clean up nice keeping the masking on during blocking promotes a cleaner environment and a better paint job it's now off to the booth to shoot the cablet sealer this gives the paint a solid foundation for adhesion and helps promote a uniform color the base coat begins with mixing up this awesome color called herman white it was a factory gm color back in the early 60s it's a solid off-white that is just the right shade we're looking for the base coat is applied with 25 psi at the gun totaling three coats now i just got finished spraying that base coat but it doesn't stop there this is where that custom touch comes in and it all starts right here with this pearl a lot of guys like mixing this directly into their clear coat but the issue you can have with that is if you have a run it's a lot harder to correct and blend in i prefer to use a high quality color blender which is essentially a clear base coat now this is custom paint there's no rules throw that out the window however there's a few simple things to keep in mind the first is the size of your pearl to the size of the tip and your gun you want to make sure your tips big enough so it doesn't clog up the gun and well lastly if you're running cup filters or screen filters well rip those out too the most accurate way to measure pearl or flake is with a scale we're using one gram per 28 ounces i'm going to apply two coats of the pearl while keeping the gun set at 25 psi the third is a control coat allowing for uniformity for the desired effect i lower the pressure of the gun from 25 to 17 psi the fan pattern remains wide open this is where the distance from the gun to the panel is extended and the motion of spraying slows down you're not going for coverage here you're only trying to get the pearl to lay down nice and even on the panel no blotching and no striking i got one last step before we lay down some clear and this technique is called back masking what i'll do is roll down this edge and it'll allow that clear coat to flow seamlessly right down on the edge of that panel without leaving a hard edge if we were just to do a regular tape line taper back just like that it's now time for my favorite part of all and that's smashing on the clear the gun gets set up with 32 psi it's sprayed with a pattern overlap of about 50 maintaining about a 10 inch distance to the panel we're gonna finish this bad boy off with a total of five coats of clear and let it cure overnight next rear axle redone we've finalized the gear pattern on our 12 bolt and if you're unsure which adjustments need to be made just study the manual which comes with the gears for us it's time for final assembly while it might be a bit confusing just about every new ring and pinion gear set comes with instructions to help you read the wear pattern the pinion nut comes off and the pinion gear is driven out of the housing we're going to add ten thousands to the pinion depth and press on the final bearing a heavy chunk of metal helps keep the pinion in place while the outer bearing is being pushed on [Music] the new oil seal is now installed the threads on the pinion are lubed up and the yolk splines onto the pinion shaft the nut and washer are installed and the nut is tightened until the crush collar starts to deform there's no actual torque value specified for the pinion nut instead it just gets tightened until there's about 20 inch pounds of rotational drag now the carrier goes into place [Music] the backlash is verified and now all the hard work is done seven right on the money to finish up this 12 bolt we'll apply a little lube into the end of the axle tube and drive the wheel bearing into place followed by the oil seal then the brake backing plate goes on the very next step is to install the axle shafts into the housing but first we need to put some wheel studs in the flange as always there's two different ways to do it [Music] the first method involves using a shot press and a socket and it effortlessly pushes the knurled wheel studs into the axle [Music] the second way to install wheel studs is also pretty simple and it involves basic tools that you'll already have kicking around the shot all you're going to need is the stud a lug nut a washer and either an impact gun or a ratchet apply a little lube onto the threads and knurling and simply slide the stud through the hole put on a washer and the lug nut on backwards and just crank her down until the wheel stud fully bottoms out in the flange [Music] the completed axle shaft is slid into the housing and engages with a true trap the c-clips will hold the axles from pulling out and the center pin and cap secures everything inside the carrier with a snap ring finally the diff cover can be installed and a slight amount of pressure is applied to the cap support screws finishing up this 12 volt rear end next removing the nasty the very last thing we're gonna do before we stick this body back on the frame is clean up the underside the floors are in okay shape but they just won't make a nice visual contrast against the new frame and suspension to spruce up the bottom of our cab we're going to be using some of dupli-color's new premium undercoating since its high build formula will hide some of the imperfections on our cab floor now this stuff will prevent corrosion you can paint over it if you want and it'll even dampen sound and road noise and the best part is the high output delivery system will quickly and effortlessly cover a large surface now you can use this stuff on just about anything cab floors fuel tanks doors quarter panels and a whole lot more but the first thing we got to do is just a little bit of cleanup we're using a combination of scrapers and wire brushes to remove 50 years of buildup once the surface is prepped we'll mask the surrounding areas of the cab floor since this is an aerosol and doesn't make a ton of overspray we're just using some six inch paper we're going to apply two light coats and let it dry for an hour [Music] now if you notice we bolted a new set of sneakers on old boy we went to summit racing and picked up this awesome set neato 555s paired with these american racing saw flat style wheels and if i must say so myself i couldn't have came up with a better combo even if i try yeah i'll give it to you i think you nailed it this time around you know the vintage look of the wheel absolutely sets off the patina look of the rest of the truck now i will admit though i was a little bit nervous when you first said you wanted to put a shiny pearl paint job on the roof of a patina truck but seeing it in person i do have to admit i think it actually works the paint laid down nice and slick we got rid of all that rust and the pearl just makes the light kind of sparkle and dance around it's really just the icing on the cake was that a compliment i'll give you one every now and then well hey love it or hate it that's what custom truck building is all about add a touch here there put your own new innovative ideas make it happen if you guys want to see a parts list for anything you've seen in today's episode visit powernationtv.com thanks for watching truck tech and we'll catch you guys next time so what are we going to do about this interior though because what i'm thinking we're back in the shop and it's time to make some more progress on our 1965 chevy c10 low and slow the entire concept of this build was to keep this old patina look that rough and rugged vibe but yet still add a little custom a new touch of bling here and there now we got started with that freshly powdered coated frame new suspension components and then these new kicks now the last thing you guys saw us do was address the roof of this truck and that's because there really wasn't any patina left on it it was mostly just rust anyway so we decided to slap some nice shiny new paint on it and that's just the start there's still a few things left to do we're gonna continue that same theme underneath the hood now we've already got the 292 in place and all the heavy fab work is taken care of on the hot side of the turbo but right now this is just a mock-up engine we still have to take it out disassemble it rebuild it and we'll throw in a few performance parts while it's taken apart then we'll paint up the engine and get it looking real slick and put it back in so there's a nice contrast between it and the engine bay that's around it but all that has to wait until another day but we can get started on the interior our plan for this is to make it inviting clean and classy and that involves repainting we use the same color we used on the exterior roof except no pearl effect and no shine and then adding those custom leather seats nice saddle brown something to contrast the light color round it out with some dash components new and shiny now as you can tell we already got to cutting on this floor pan and that's to make room for that five-speed transmission that american powertrain sent us let's get started on prepping the floor the earlier c-10s came with the fuel tank located inside the cab right behind the seat not necessarily the best idea the brackets aren't in the way but we decided to cut them flush and grind the edges for a clean look since the fuel tank will be relocated under the truck [Music] the door seal trim is removed from both sides [Music] and the old rubber is yanked off [Music] gotta love this adhesive back weather stripping it definitely made improvements in today's age where it just press fit [Music] i'll go over the mating flange on the trance tunnel with the wire wheel to take care of the rust [Music] now i'm not going to get too crazy with this wire wheel i'm really only hitting the lip where that high hump panel is going to adhere to the floor and the other more rusted areas the rest of the floor is actually in pretty good shape and we don't need something quite so aggressive to tackle it so a da with some 400 grit ask scotch bright by hand to get in those harder reach places get the job done and for the more rusted areas we'll treat that later before we top coat it [Music] the d.a makes quick work of scuffing the rest of the floor since there's no need to strip it down to bare metal to properly treat the rusted areas we're using a rust converter this application will stop the rust in its tracks by chemically changing it to a neutral surface that's ready to be top coated i gotta say applying this rust converter is pretty neat it goes on this beige cream color and then within a few minutes it turns purple i'm no scientist or nothing but changing colors to me that means it's working [Music] just like picasso [Music] next diy cody just rolled low and slow over in the prep booth we're going to test fit that high hump and that'll bring us one step closer to spraying [Music] i'll drop it in and double check the fitment a few marks are made in the areas that require trimming and a body saw makes quick work to get it to the right size without producing a ton of dust a pilot hole is located and drilled for the stick shift final cuts are then made to accommodate full range of the shifter surface prep and a good wipe is done on both mating surfaces and the two-part panel adhesion epoxy is applied generously around the perimeter the high hump is carefully lowered into place and allowed to cure overnight once masked off the bare metal areas are dusted with a self-etching primer and a final prep wipe is done on the entire floor leaving us with only the thumb part left [Music] we're gonna lay down this wrap to lana not only because it's great for the bed of a truck but can also be used in any application you can come up with such as the florida c-10 it'll help with sound deadening and also be a durable top coat that'll last for years we're mixing in about four ounces of black base coat since we only have the tentable version of raptor liner [Music] two heavy wet coats will be applied to the entire floor rear panel and firewall [Music] and after a few minutes it's already looking like a million bucks when it comes to sourcing high quality oem replacement parts brothers trucks comes through for the 60 to 66 chevy c10 we recently picked up one of their deluxe window seal kits and it includes everything from front windshield to rear window rubber door seals window channel sets and even vent and hood to cow seals their kits also include a tube of permatex weatherstrip adhesive log on to brotherstrucks.com and find your chevy application well austin i've got to say just a little bit of bedliner makes a pretty big difference in how this cab looks it improves the durability as well you know it's really all those tiny little details that come together and make a great build even though that'll be covered up on that fresh new carpet it'll still dampen that road noise quite a bit and i do have to say this project is off to a great start and if you guys have any questions about any of the parts that we've used be sure to check us out at powernationtv.com from bear to beautiful low and slow gets a custom bench seat when wyotech's trim and upholstery instructor takes austin on as a student will he get a passing grade we're back on truck deck and we're finally knee-deep and tackling the interior of the 65 c10 now the last time you've seen us work on it we're spraying bed liner on the floor and that'll help in dampen noise and those vibrations and since then well we've been showing you a lot of painting techniques so i decided not to bore you with the details on this one i went ahead and sprayed the interior with a fresh coat and we used the same color we used on the exterior minus the pearl and minus the clear after all you don't want that sun reflecting off a shiny dashboard and hitting you nice and you guessed it this is the original seat we yanked out of old low and slow and well just with a quick glance you could tell it definitely needs some help but not to worry i brought in just the right guy to get the job done our buddy mack is a fourth generation upholstery expert who has lent his skills to our shops before that's why i utilize chalk he's an instructor at the wyotech campus in laramie wyoming and teaches the next generation of customizers in his tram and upholstery class preparing young men and women for careers in automotive trim shops marine and aircraft refurbishers you name them well mack i got to say we are glad to have you in the shop and i think it's our turn to use some of this expertise and knowledge you have well thanks for the invite i'm glad to be here yeah now a lot of guys will look at this old seat and myself included just want to throw this thing right out and buy a new one but let's be honest this is custom truck building so this might be able to be saved sometimes it's better to take the old seat and do something custom with it i think we ought to take this whole saddle blanket cover off and see what we have actually this seat's not in bad shape it's a good candidate to do something custom maybe a leather cover or something like that i made some sketches i kind of kept it a little bit retro if you guys want to do something different we can always sketch something else out and we can that's where we start from for sure well uh yeah say we get started tear this thing down and go from there let's take it apart [Music] set it on the ground this piece is over a half a century old so stripping it down to the frame we'll get a better idea of how it was treated by its previous owners i ordered a bunch of extra material just in case it needs to be completely rebuilt so a quick inspection of this bun austin looks like everything's in decent shape here we'll take a look at the top side real quick um we have minimal wear on this thing you know i i would re salvage this piece reuse it looks way better than what i thought it would yeah so maybe we should take a look at the frame and look at the springs and see what we have for sure no broken springs means all we need to do is put down some burlap all right let's roll that baby out set it right there and add a layer of jute padding to support the old cushion which will be reused when it came to choosing interior trim we had a few different options could have went with cloth could have went with vinyl but why would you not want to ride in class on some fine italian leather this has a very good hand and is also fade and scratch resistant and well the color legacy dark caramel my opinion will work great in this truck we picked it up from moore and guys in lynchburg virginia because they source quality hides from the best tanneries in the world and supply all applications whether it be aviation furniture or even automotive one thing about these european hides is typically they don't use barbed wire fences over there so you typically run across very few flaws on these it's pretty interesting next austin at the wheel with our design sketched out for low and slowest bench seat inserts have to be square that off we first lay down our marks on the cushion to get a visual reference then carefully cut out the sections that will serve as the inserts just a blade along a straight edge pretty much yeah as i was thinking about this truck and you know especially keeping the the original patina to the vehicle i thought going with a retro style seat cover would be the best thing for it kind of the simpler the better when this truck came out it came out basically with a vinyl plain vinyl seat cover it had a heat embossed imprints in it and so it's kind of simple we wanted to kind of keep the same cues to fit the vehicle with our four insert panels marked bring our foam over we'll cut some foam with a half inch overlap before mac begins the sewing process there's one in the 60s chevy offered deep cushion upholstery with vertical pleats and there was a cloth vinyl upgrade for added comfort we're going the opposite direction and so is matt doing five lines to make six pleats he hasn't sewn on a regular basis in 10 years you know it's a little different actually doing the work again you know you get a little rusty yeah could have fooled me mack went through those pleats on three panels in about 10 minutes and then he passed on the throne to me i can't let mack have all the fun now can i try my luck at this he was doing some pleats without a lot of guidance he watched me do it he didn't really have the lecture that goes along with it before i have students actually sew i gotta say i was doing very well and i was shooting a straight line with that stitch until the very end we went a little wonky a little sideways but uh hey we learned from our mistakes and start fresh keep your hands in front to keep pulling so you're behind and what what happens when your hands are behind the machine is the machine pulls it so by keeping your hands in front of the needle it keeps them from sucking it in i guess we just got to keep going huh yeah made a mistake that's what happens sometimes we learn from our mistakes and a lot of times i'll allow a student to make certain mistakes so that they can learn from it they seem to learn faster that way you want to try that one again good i have had prior experience sewing but it was maybe 15 20 years ago back in junior high high school days so when you know the pillowcases in pajamas at homemet class and after he corrected me and taught me the right proper techniques and starting fresh clean with the right instruction made all the difference in the world okay he did well now we got to border stitching once we got our base panel sewn up this whole process is just consistency repetition and having patience if you trace out your lines and measure correctly the first time you can repeat that pattern over and get real consistent results in the end if not if you rush something or skip a step or try to cheat a little bit it'll probably show in the end result okay we're gonna go 17 and a quarter a lot of guys will try to learn out of a book or maybe a video take a class take a class i mean most of our students bring a project in they bring their own vehicle in and they roll out with a fresh interior not only did they get a fair deal on their interior but now they have a calling card and they can show customers hey i can do this this whole time we're building two completely different sections of the seat the seat back and the bottom cushion measuring using those techniques and i gotta say it was flawless all right i'll crawl on through mac take it easy and try not to bang it up huh i can already tell you that uh this was a good color choice look okay right there huh after sitting in those old seats i gotta say this is a world of a difference well you know nothing like sitting on some nice leather huh came together nice and i can't thank you enough it was great having you here spending time with you and just absorbing all that knowledge well i appreciate coming out here and got a teaching moment in as well so it's all good win-win that's it can't wait till next time all right you know 50 of any truck build is the bed and when it comes to that classic it's a huge focal point we got our 65 c10 in the shop today we're gonna be making a few changes on it and one of those like austin says is the bed now our original wood it's not like it's rotten it's just in really poor shape and it just is boring to look at time to spice it up a bit it's still wet it's still warm but nice and fresh and clean i really dig the look but i have one question for you what are we going to do with all this wood i feel like you're the type to put on an apron get your woodworking chisels out maybe make like a jewelry box i don't know you're crazy fool [Applause] [Music] [Music] it is a beautiful day outside the sun is shining we're in a great looking truck temperature is perfect and it's a brand new season it does not get any better than this i'm so glad we're out of the shop not working just cruising around in this rig it's an awesome ride and it will be a great season to come i can't wait now you guys might notice that this truck does look just a little bit different from the last time you saw it now that's just because we didn't show you every last step of the build but not to worry if you're just starting to watch let's get you caught up found what we were looking for in the 65 c10 fleet side and it didn't take long tearing this truck apart to figure out that somebody patches together for a quick sale mechanically the truck was iffy at best the engine was a later model 305 which was low on compression and smoked a bit and just about every single bushing and joint in the suspension was shot but that really wasn't a huge deal since all we were really after was some good solid sheet metal we got right to work on the rebuild by getting the chassis powder coated and we threw on a qa1 suspension kit which will lower the ride height and improve handling then i painted the roof pearl white for a pop of color while lt fabbed up the turbo kit for our 292 straight six with the cab undercoated we threw it back on the frame and austin and mack from wyotech got busy creating a custom leather bench seat and some door panels well i've got to say the interior on this truck it turned out i mean just perfect honestly like i know i had my reservations at first when he said you wanted to paint it white and have brown leather but honestly though it actually looks great this a compliment coming from you yeah okay i'm sorry i don't give all the compliments in the world but yes this i'll hand it to you here it's an extremely weird feeling being the recipient of a compliment i don't know what to do i guess i could reevaluate my life decisions huh you're doing great but no i mean the truck it is riding great you know the suspension those coilovers nice and tight nice and low dude the steering is tight uh hopefully the brakes work really well because we're tailgating someone at the moment couldn't ask for more honestly i mean don't get too ahead of yourself though because right now uh there's no gauges and it would be nice to know how fast we're going let's not get carried away we got to still have stuff to do in the future i did forget to put the gauges in but they are at the shop it'd be nice if we even finish up the wiring and by finish i mean start the wiring well you know it'd be nice to have things like tail lights and headlights i guess uh engine wise the turbo man that thing is all buttoned up all the fab work is done but engine wise pat mike they're still doing the machine work so uh we probably need to throw that in be cool if yeah we drop drop it in and uh a bed well it's not a truck if you don't put a bed on it right so what do you say we quit screwing around and maybe head back to the shop and actually get to work hate to say you're right but i guess we got to huh you could have a little more power in reverse but it does the job i guess this is really good for the calves i think why do i always get suckered into pushing you got longer legs it's more efficient i don't think that has anything to do with it think about it every now and then you get a project that just kind of surprises you with how well it turns out and this 65 c10 is a case of the sum of the parts being totally greater than them individually or however that thing is supposed to go for sure unlike most of the projects we do that are thought out renderings concepts this one was kind of a little off the cuff i mean we knew we wanted a patina truck and add a little flare to it but it's all the little things that come together that actually made this pretty cool i mean you kind of make it sound like an accident i mean i want to take a little bit of credit for what we built here but no honestly there's just all the little things like you said they just add up to make this incredible package think from the paint on the roof the interior the power plant i mean that's kind of my favorite just because of how cool and custom it is but so where are we at what do we got to finish up well uh if we put a bed on the back it would actually make it a truck i think it's time we well let me take care of it yeah let's take a look at what we're working with because if i remember right this was not in great shape this is as low as she's gonna get huh you know those ballet classes are really starting to pay off yeah almost fell through too i believe that this floor is pretty rough you know it just kind of goes to show what condition this truck is or was in when we picked it up somebody really just pulled this out of a field and they slapped it together these planks they're actually pretty new it's just something that they must had kicking around they milled it up and they stuck it in but just it doesn't match and it's just kind of plain yeah not to mention the rails have seen better days they're about rusted out and the few new ones they did put in there well they fake patina them which actually blends them in quite well yeah you know we also could take the opportunity to put in a little bit wider wheel tub to fit maybe just a little bit more rubber in this thing for some traction when we launch it really this is more what we have in mind for the look on the floor of the bed um it still looks rustic maybe kind of that old barn wood but just something with a little bit more difference in the color so let me show you guys what we picked up to make this happen it ain't wood and it won't rub find out next so about a year and a half ago i was at the c10 nationals down in texas it was a great show and i had a lot of time to walk through the manufacturers midway and see some of the new products that people had come out with for these trucks and there was a bed wood floor kit that caught my eye and that's because there was a big giant graphic completely applied to the floor of the bed now that caught my attention because i first of all wondered how the heck do they get that in the bed because wood is a tough material to work with so i stopped and i realized it actually wasn't wood it was an extruded aluminum bed floor kit from smoky road rod shop and that's what we've ordered up here now first of all it has that nice barn wood texture that we're going for but there's a couple advantages to using aluminum number one it's lightweight this stuff is extruded and it weighs almost nothing most traditional bed wood floor kits well they're made from hardwood and that's very heavy so if you want a fast truck lightweight is your friend and the other advantage to this system is how clean is going to look when it's installed there are no exposed fasteners on these rails at all there's a small groove on the back of the extrusion that the hardware is going to go into that holds everything nice and tight and has a nice clean look and on top of that we had our logo put in the bed project low and slow so this thing is going to look great all right romeo let's get this thing lifted up you think you can handle it i hope so oh man there we go yeah don't don't let it go the other way uh a couple straps and some wrenches i guess yeah keep it square so as soon as we take the bed floor out of this thing there's really going to be nothing that holds it in place basically it could just flop over and all our bedsides will be sitting on the ground so you take two straps and you run them at a diagonal and they're gonna keep this thing nice and square so nothing falls apart all right let's get this thing on both zippered off [Music] all right let's get some boards falling [Music] we can make some really nice old decorative furniture demolition always goes so much quicker isn't this just fun it's relaxing [Music] here we go that's all i wanted to do this is a very fragile piece of history we have here almost hitting you so yeah that's all right now originally this truck had the fuel tank behind the seat actually inside the cab not very safe so we have already gone and mounted the fuel tank back here on the frame rails but we're actually going to be running a fuel injected engine which means we need a little bit more pressure than the old-school mechanical pumps that are bolted to the side of the block can provide so we went to summit racing and we picked up this in-tank electric fuel pump kit now basically you drill a hole in the top of the tank this guy mounts down here you trim it to the right length and this has an internal regulator and it'll supply 60 psi of fuel all the way up to the engine everything's great the only thing we need to figure out is where exactly we're going to put the hole in the top of the tank and there's a few things that we have to kind of work around number one the rear bed brace is going right across there so we don't want to put it kind of in this area and number two there are two baffles that are inside the tank they kind of keep the fuel from sloshing around they sit right here and here so our pump is going to go right there [Music] now one mistake i see a lot of people make when you're using a hole saw is just rushing things and twisting your wrist it's like my old man used to tell me he said you get paid by the hour so don't rush it let the teeth from the saw do the work don't use too much pressure and run the drill at a low speed that way you don't burn up the teeth on the bit with a little patience you'll be done in no time [Music] included in the kit you get this yellow guy right here now it looks like a sponge for washing your car but it's not it actually goes down inside the tank and it has to do with the pickup of fuel now normally the pump sits maybe a quarter to a half an inch above the bottom of the tank but remember fuel is a liquid and it's constantly sloshing around as you're driving around corners accelerating and decelerating and if this isn't constantly submerged you'd be running low on fuel pressure and your engine would probably die out so this guy is actually a fuel baffle of sorts it's made from a fuel resistant foam and it has this plastic bucket that kind of sits down on the bottom so no matter how low the tank is they'll always be a small reservoir of fuel the pump is submerged in so you'll never run out of fuel pressure unless you run entirely out of fuel next austin gets in the zone austin you got to check this bed floor up it's looking great i like it i like it well dude i just got finished prepping these uh scuffed them up with the d.a but honestly i still don't know which route i'm taking as far as finish well i mean i guess you got a couple different options right number one you could do the whole fake patina thing you know we've done that before basically spray a little bit of red oxide primer on there you put some color on top and you sand through in a couple different areas but the thing is it just it wouldn't match you would almost stick out worse than it would blend in for sure and it's not the style of the truck right we have the real patina and then some newly fresh painted stuff we know black doesn't look right because they were e-coated in black and it was just a little off if it was a rat rod i would just say hey let's call it a day and bolt them up like it is well we just got to pick a color then to paint both the tubs and the strips and blend it all in yeah i've been thinking and i honestly think it would look good if we carry that wide over on the back because it's a new part so so still have the same pearl and the clear coat for a nice glossy look nice and shiny do the same on the strips because they're bare aluminum hey i was cleaning out my tool box and i found one of those nice fine texture paint rollers i can get busy if you want no absolutely not i'm going to spray this now for my help he won't accept it i'll help carry parts all right i got all the hard work done they're sorted in alphabetical order you even know how to say that alphabet yeah you start with z right we're zed all right my work's done get out of here if you spend any time around painters or a body shop you'll quickly realize that there are a lot of chemicals required to execute a flawless paint job and the first what austin is doing now is a primer that's the base material that you lay down that'll bond to the bare metal and provides a nice even layer for the subsequent coats then depending on what type of finish you're looking to achieve you may have some sort of a sealer that goes down that just provides a nice even layer and then on top of that you'll have a base coat what are you talking about i'm just trying to make it look good man i'm explaining all the steps to a basic paint job that case go ahead i need all the help they can get now clearly you don't have to be a rocket scientist to pull off a great paint job but on top of the sealer you have a base coat that's where your color is and finally you have the clear that's what provides the uv protection and the gloss modern day pickup truck beds are made from large pieces of sheet metal that have been stamped together and spot welded as one major assembly these older trucks they're made from several small pieces that bolt together now our original cross sills have been thoroughly rusted out they're over 50 years old so we went to summit racing and we picked up a bunch of replacements now the only modification that we had to do is because this is a hidden fastener bed system well i had to spot weld a couple of half inch bolts to the middle three cross sails that way we can tighten it up without having to fish a little wrench in between this small area and the bed i guess all the paint is done right got it sorted so that means the time start bolting this bed together yeah i don't know why you got the rusty rails still there oh we're just playing show-and-tell [Music] really i guess the main objective here is just to get everything kind of located slide these dudes in temporary yeah which side you're going all this right i guess like this all right so the coolest thing about this bed system is the fact that it uses a hidden fastener on the back side of these rails is a very small channel and it holds a quarter inch bolt nothing on the top looks nice and smooth but it also doubles as a fun little game you ready race to the bottom feel like i was loading a bb gun you got a head start three two one go all by gravity you have all five to the bottom though oh winner oh man i got a dud you owe me lunch all right let's put this in the best part about this aluminum bed floor from smoky road raw chop is how easily it installs you don't need any woodworking tools or even a paint brush it all just bolts right into place next we'll get an update on our engine where you going the trucks this one oh you got a little high for me don't you think just don't bang up my paint back oh no you're good we're like still eight inches away [Music] yeah you gotta push frontwards majorly there you go don't scratch the bangs yeah i know guy who can fix it get this dangerous thing out of here it's just paint yeah okay dope let's see what we actually working with here honestly i'm digging it i mean the white just kind of flows from the roof to the strips to the tubs and works with the wood grain it just just works dude i am too when this was 12 foot over that way it was a bit much and it looked weird but now that it's on the truck it flows i like it i know what you mean just having it on the truck makes a huge difference but i guess all we can do is put a hole in the floor for the filler next we're done for sure that'll wrap up the rear and uh what do you say we go see where they have with the motor i'm excited i want to see that 292 done get that wrapped up fresh parts on the table looks like we're getting close what's up gentlemen looks like progress to me man uh i just got done painting some of your parts and that timing cover can't find them yeah all those little tins hard to source man yeah i mean that's basically why we had to buy that backup motor just because you can't find any of that stuff that was a great great idea turbo wise we kind of got everything finished up fab work um you know we've got the crossover feeds into the s366 turbo got you a four inch downpipe there plenty of flow it's probably honestly a bit overkill but it fits the chassis the split manifolds got the wastegate dump that'll kind of sound nice when it's under boost it's not look cool it looks really cool all that just fabricated stainless piping when you pop the hood on that track you just don't expect it but that's the outside taken care of but what do we have to do on the inside of an engine to make it withstand you know this much boost pressure that we're going to plan on feeding into it well you have to remember this engine is not designed for a lot of boost right or this type of power but there are some things that we can do this has main studs in it now we've uh if you're going to align it anyway why not put studs in it is it necessary for this power level no but why not do it while we can also this block has been set up for head studs and for boost pressure i think that actually will help a little bit keeping the thing sealed up and even though we're not running crazy boosts head studs will always help right absolutely so it sounds like basically we're starting with a stock block but you're just making sure everything is exactly the size and dimension that you want it you know strengthen it where applicable um mike what's up with the connecting rod that's what would you guys do just for a little extra strength in that down low we decided to throw some arp rod bolts in it uh and we got something going on with the pistons so go ahead yeah we're changing it to a hypereutectic piston from just a cast piston has a an increased amount of silicon content because we're generating extra heat that will keep the skirts away from scuffing a little bit we also when we honed it we honed it on our sv15 we increased the bore clearance and we increased the ring gaps for boosted applications but even though we're not doing anything crazy to the bottom man this thing will handle north of 400 no problem huh absolutely and for the power level that you're looking for i think we're right in the ball park for what we need to do for the engine specifications it's gonna be fun baby so that's the short block handles what are we putting on top of this well that's where we received a lot more attention the cylinder head has been extensively modified as far as cylinder heads go now pat in a situation like this a lot of guys would say well just throw a couple more pounds of boost to it what did we really do by opening it up well we increased the airflow capacity aside from boost we basically treated this like a naturally aspirated engine about how it's getting air in boost is just going to augment that it's going to require less boost to make more power so all in all it'll increase the flow and help direct the air right right less turbulence more flow so well i can't wait to hear this thing run guys honestly i'm really excited um it looks like we're making great progress have you ever heard a performance six banger run i'm not talking all at what you're thinking all that no a lot of comments that kerosene i'm excited we get to hear both ways n.a and turbo yeah right that's true so that'll be a cool comparison and just hear the sound difference you guys will be pulling the levers on the dyno and everything so yeah yeah we'll have some fun with it you're gonna have some fun lt i gotta say this man this engine doesn't take the yellow can it takes the red can timeout mike everybody knows if you add about 10 diesel into any engine you your torque number just goes way way up all right that's keyboard jockeys got a little pat's mad because we're giving away all the racer seats oh my god yes oh man well another thing uh added a little strength to the block with some paint yeah i was going to say silver that's a that's a bold choice but i think i like aluminum yeah there you go well i think with what you're doing on the truck it kind of fits the color schemes for sure what the dude once we got the black tans on there and we still probably got to pick a coating for the turbo manifold but do something with that i think it'd be cool i think it's you know it's going to look great not only is it going to look great it's going to run great so we're excited to do it it's a fun one now here in the next month or so we're gonna be coming to you for some help on a project would you all start building trucks now no it has nothing to do with truck nothing to do with truck but uh you know how it goes one hand washes the other you need somebody to do some welding for you i'm your guy oh my god that's that was awkward oh my god that was okay i gotta say it's been a long time coming on the 65 c10 but with me and yahoo here you know these things take time the interior came out great basically and we'll throw some gauges in it be driving them by this afternoon so that's where you get your information on how to build trucks yahoo the internet now before we go anywhere obviously we've got to put an engine underneath the hood of our c10 and this is probably a power plant that's just a little more unique than what you guys are used to seeing yeah but after today you won't be able to see that no more [Music] [Applause] yeah baby [Music] when it came time to selecting the power plant that's going to go under the hood of our c10 we had one requirement it had to be different and unique that means no ls and no small block chevy now as much as those motors are great can make power this is so much cooler it's a turbocharged chevy 292 straight six it's actually collaboration between us and the guys next door at engine power we handled all the fab work and they handled the machine work now before we get carried away and drop this thing in there's a few little things we'll take care of and one of those will be brake lines just be a lot easier to get to and we'll also give you the quick rundown of how this thing was properly put together at powernation we're lucky to work with some first-class builders and when it came to our 292's final assembly we enlisted the services of pat and mike from engine power the first step was for them to finalize the bore geometry on the cylinder home they first roughed it in with a 220 grit stone and finished things off with the 600 with all the machining processes complete and the block thoroughly cleaned the main bearings and caps were installed and torqued down and the oil clearance was verified once they knew everything was within spec the bearings get a coat of assembly lube for protection on initial startup and the crankshaft is carefully lowered into place the main caps are installed and torque to spec one final time next it was time for a custom comp cam which had been designed to run well in boosted applications to complete the rotating assembly a trip to the machine shop was necessary to resize the connecting rods pat is an old pro and in no time he had the stock rods ready to go while they were there the cylinder head got the valve guides finalized and the valve seats were cut for oversized valves back at the shop had caught busy on the milling machine to modify the heads to drastically improve horsepower and airflow [Music] to finish things up the ports were massaged by hand and the head was assembled with new valves springs and retainers with all six hyper-eutectic pistons installed the timing cover balancer and oil pump and oil pan go on finishing up a custom spec 292 short block the head was torqued into place and the valve train was installed over on the engine dyno things were finished up with an intake and exhaust manifold along with a dyno specific carburetor and we just had to stop by to see how much power our baby would lay down yeah that's where it starts to sound good sounds like airplanes awesome oil pressure everything let's see what we got wow 220 horsepower finally we installed the turbocharger and intercooler and made a few more hits on the dyno where it laid down an impressive 376 horsepower and 510 pounds of torque at only 10 and a half pounds of boost well i have got to say that engine sounded pretty awesome on the dyno and the thing that impressed me the most was how quickly a 292 cubic inch engine spooled up that s366 massive amounts of torque and that means this little manual transmission truck is going to be a blast to drive for sure it's built solid we got good horsepower that means awesome burnouts to come now so we don't kill our brakes too quick we got a little something planned for that and then uh while you're tackling that because you are i know you knew that i'm gonna handle the rear we'll use that factory bumper but i got something in mind that just might clean it up a bit divide and conquer well i guess austin wanted to make sure i handled the brakes just so we don't have any accidents later on every braking system starts up here on the firewall this is a master cylinder that we picked up from summit racing and this one is special because it has an adjustable proportioning valve bolted onto the side now this is important for us because we convert it to a four-wheel disc brake setup and this way we can adjust the bias between the front and the rear brake so if we're ever in a panic stop situation all four wheels lock up at the same time now that little special something austin was talking about is this guy right here this is called a line lock it's also known as a roll control and basically what it allows us to do is lock up the front brakes and have no braking pressure on the rear and this is helpful for i don't know whenever you want to spin the tires or whenever you're staging at the drag strip now this is pretty simple to install and it goes in the front brake system so the only thing i have to do is find a place to mount it i'm thinking somewhere right on here in the frame rail so the first step is to build a bracket when it comes to building custom trucks there are a lot of times you're going to have to mock up a bracket because there are so many different aftermarket parts that you're going to install and as always there's a couple of different ways you could mock things up number one you could go super high tech and use a 3d scanner and some rapid prototyping materials but that's just not practical for most everybody so you could also go completely stone age and use some corrugated cardboard now this is what everyday materials ship in through the mail but the problem is it really only folds in one direction and not very precisely at that so i don't recommend cardboard instead i recommend you go to a craft supply store and pick up some of this fiber or chipboard it's fairly thin and you can easily cut it with a standard pair of scissors and the best part is you can fold it easily in any direction in a very precise manner so i went ahead and i mocked up the bracket that we're going to use to mount the roll control to an existing hole in the frame of our c10 it's going to have three holes in the front for the roll control one hole on top for it to mount to an existing hole in the frame and then all it has is a simple 90 degree bend so now the only thing i have to do is turn this in the middle into low and slow for good that's nick okay that works [Music] with the roll control securely mounted all the major components of the braking system are in place so now it's just a matter of connecting the dots with some brake line now i did go to summit racing and pick up a pre-bent stainless steel brake line kit that's designed for an early 60s chevy c10 the problem is though we've got a lot of different components and the kit was not designed to work with a roll control so i'll just use these pieces as a starting point and connect the proportioning valve to the inlet of the roll control now i do need to trim it and re-flare a little bit but from there there are two outlets one goes to the left front and one goes to the right front the very last thing i got to do is go from the rear of the proportioning valve all the way to the rear of the truck and this brake system is done cut it right about there [Music] well i've got to say probably without exception this is the best sounding engine that we've built on this show like ever and that's just on the dyno wait till we have it in the truck with a proper exhaust built right in the back there it'll be a one of a kind for sure i know i can't wait but the only problem with the dyno is you can't do burnouts on it so this engine has got to go back in that truck now we do have to remove a lot of this turbo component tree because well you can't lower the engine down into the truck the heater box kind of sits right here on top of the hot side of the turbo and the hot side of the exhaust is very close to the cross member so we'll just take it all off for like the 50th time and get it back in there between the mock-up motor and this one putting them together taking them apart at least we know though it ran on the dyno we have no leaks we're not gonna have any problems last time we put it in here should actually be the last time well that's building trucks for you and i've really only got two clamps on this side so i guess the rest is up to you yeah i'll see you in like an hour when i'm done hey give me a screwdriver [Music] we got it baby you imagine having to do this like a normal person with a cherry picker i mean we are doing it by hand i don't know if that counts somewhere in there [Music] we're going to be running a tremec 5-speed manual transmission behind our turbo 292 and this c10 is going to be a blast to drive but first we need to install the clutch assembly and the first part is a flywheel now this is a steel disc that gets bolted directly to the back of the crankshaft and as the engine spins it actually helps conserve energy so that way when you let the clutch out the inertia that's stored in the flywheel will prevent the engine rpm from dropping too low now on top of that there's a nice smooth machined surface on the face of the flywheel and that is what the friction disc of the clutch is going to grab against so all we got to do is get this bolted up to the back of the engine well i sure am glad we got to endure that physics lesson super exciting stuff it's now time to figure out which clutch disc we're actually going to use for this truck when it comes to it it's just like selecting brake pads for a rotor you could start out with your basic organic compound and that's good for about 475 foot-pounds a little higher performance application you got your hybrid this will be good for about 580 foot pounds and then for your high performance applications and your big foot pound of torque all the way up to about 775 you got your ceramic now you may think bigger is better and just go with the big old ceramic dude but let me tell you drivability will not be pleasant it's going to engage pretty hard it's probably going to chatter and you probably won't even be able to leave the driveway so for this dude we're going with the hybrid middleware road it'll still be drivable you know maybe if you didn't spend so much time in home that class learning how to tie quills you could be up here giving physics lessons with me it's a lot but instead you can hold that now it's pretty simple to slap this whole clutch disc in there they usually come with a little dowel installation tool that's splined just right help everything line up that way when you put that transmission in slides right on the very last piece of the puzzle is this guy right here a pressure plate you can almost think of this it's like a brake caliper it's what engages and disengages against the friction disc all right right there next we're talking trans all right so we got the tremec tko5 speed sitting on the table that american powertrain sent us and that means it's time to set up a clutch now we're using a hydraulic system so this sleigh ceiling the throw out bearing assembly is going to take the place of that old mechanical fork style that presses against those fingers which pushes in your clutch disc and applies friction to the flywheel now to set this up this really just slides on the input shaft and it's guided by this dowel pin the idea here is you want to have about 150 thousands of clearance between the surface of this bearing and your clutch fingers in the pressure plate and that that'll allow enough room after it breaks in for those fingers to relax and still have room to wiggle after all you don't want this pushed in too far applying too much force on that clutch disc you'll just heat it up and it'll wear out pretty quick kind of like a brake pad and roller system you want some free play but not too much before it engages so it works properly now the way i'll take this measurement is we're basically going to take a measurement from the surface of the bearing to where the bell housing sits on the transmission in order to do that you find yourself a good little straight edge flat surface where the bell housing mounts up and some dial calipers and dial it in right by eye now basically repeat the process on the bell housing side you put your straight edge against the flat surface of the bell housing push the dial calipers all the way into those fingers on the pressure plate pull the measurement subtract the two and that gives you your distance now we already measured this one out and it comes in at 164 thousandths which is right in the acceptable range give or take so that means time to get this dude under the truck and uh i'd ask lt for help but he'd honestly be none at all gotta do it myself all i know is if you stay in school you can get paid to sit around and watch other people do the hard work that's all i'm saying where are you at there chris who just grab it what's the stay in school thing man i just finished school no i mean the thing is you're you're a great example to all those kids you really are what school do you show how you can adapt and overcome i hope the splines line up yeah up we got to go up yeah right there what happened that input shaft bottoming out you know we have a trance jack right yeah but it's like a weird awkward shape all right i'm trying to do this without actually damaging the seal but basically what i'm doing is i'm just going to put these vise grips on here gently now the transmission is in gear that way we can turn the output shaft which turns the input shaft to hopefully line it up into the clutch disc because i think that's the problem we're having it's just not lining up so let's uh get another shot all right be sure to put your fingers in the small gap right okay start high okay it's going to come down so it'll actually go in there we go right there there we go yep there we go [Music] all right we got her looks like it's in where's the time for crossmember [Music] well there you have it the tremec tko 5 speed successfully installed by two slightly amateur mechanics with the drivetrain in its final resting place we can move on to installing the components of the turbo system and we know everything is going to fit perfectly because we've fabricated it with the engine mocked up in the chassis now the one thing we do have to consider this time is heat management because this crossover pipe even though it does give really great ground clearance it is actually pretty close to the oil pan and i don't want any extra heat to radiate from the exhaust into the oil so i wrapped it up with some of this titanium heat wrap it's basically just a small cloth that you wrap around the exhaust pipe and i'm going to have to do the same thing to the down pipe because it does come kind of close to the starter but we are one step closer to driving this 292. next some finishing touches so we're now at the point of a build where everything basically gets easier and that's because all the hard work is done the fab work for the turbo setup is complete the engine we know it runs and we know it doesn't leak and we know exactly how much horsepower it's going to make so the only thing we have to do is bolt all the parts back in place and we're headed down the road that's the best thing about these old trucks you have all the room in the world in this engine bay to work you can route your plumbing run your wires put my big old hands in there without busting knuckles and obviously this straight six help matters too you know and speaking of the straight six a lot of people are going to look at this and say why did you go with a throwaway engine for many many years if you bought a truck that had a straight six underneath the hood the first thing you're gonna do is take that thing out and throw in a big block a small block or nowadays probably an ls but a small displacement engine enforced induction is actually coming around again and a lot of the manufacturers are using engines just like this today yeah it's kind of like that old pair of cordroy pants you gotta hide it in the closet trendy and the six cylinder is no different it's more popular now than ever and that's for fuel efficiency you add turbos you put power adders you still get those mid level ranges of horsepower and they're torquey and that's the thing that makes them fun to drive and if you want just a little bit of extra torque well that's easy all you got to do is mess with a wastegate and put a little more spring pressure on top of this thing your boost level goes up and so does your horsepower and torque now for our particular engine we are kind of near the limit because we have stock connecting rods and a stock crankshaft but just in general terms that's one reason why turbocharging is so popular and speaking of boots time to cool it down and slap that in a cooler up front in order to eliminate any possibility of leaking silicone couplers we went ahead and we welded the end charge pipes onto the tank that ensures a nice leak-free connection and just kind of looks cool as well now we did mount the intercooler up front because there is no space behind the grille and we first put this in we thought you know what we could almost run this as the grille of the truck but the problem was the headlights we didn't really have a nice clean way to mount the buckets and have it look right so you might ask yourself why is an intercooler important well it's simple it's physics that turbo up there is nice as it looks it's going to make the intake air charge nice and hot so just about every vehicle on the road with the turbocharger uses an intercooler to bring down the temperature of the air increases the density increases the oxygen content and increases the capacity for horsepower now we decided to close up the front of this whole girl with an original look and to do that we're using this reproduction grill now this chrome work is going to match the front bumper some of the chrome trim on the wheels and some of the other accents we got on the truck and best of all in my opinion it'll cover up that and a cooler which will make it uh not look so after-market it'll still have that classic truck vibe but sporting turbo now i was able to reuse the original headlight buckets they're in good shape just had to tweak them a little to get them to work but the original head like retainer rings well these things have seen better days so we gotta order some new ones and that is gonna be to mount these new projector led headlights once they're in they're gonna look pretty cool and we'll definitely be able to see cruising at night so let's just wrap up this grill and call her a day good on that side looking good buddy all right two more and they line up now as far as you guys at home are concerned this is the last time you're going to see project low and slow for a little while it's not a 100 done yet there's just a few small details that we need to finish up but it's mostly just boring stuff that you're probably not going to want to watch anyway and we're about 99 of the way there well honestly maybe 95 96 but the point is we're almost there all we really have to do is drop a radiator in run some cooling run some fuel lines fab up some exhaust call this thing done and we'll wrap up with a nut and bolt inspection of the entire truck because remember this was a frame off restoration everything came apart so we need to double check to make sure we didn't forget to tighten anything back up then off to some burnouts and i might have just the spot for that and if you guys have any questions about any of the parts that we used on this truck check out our build list at powernationtv.com so you want me to handle the exhaust what are you gonna do i'm gonna give us some more time we do need a lot of those because i've seen the way you drive and you're probably going to run well there it is project low and slow is finally outside the shop because it's done and today we finally get to feel how that turbo 292 drives under full boost finito finally at the end the build is complete so get excited [Applause] yeah baby well buddy we finally made it it's been a long time since we first took the cab off this for us the old frame and sent it off to powder coat you know my favorite part about low and slow is you probably can't tell that the cab has ever even been off of the frame because it has such a nice patina finish on the outside it looks like we just pulled it out of a field but as they say there's more than meets the eye and that is what custom truck building is all about my friend it's the subtle touches such as the brand new paint on the roof draping it down the back an entire new bed floor added some nice wide wheel tubs then finished up the exterior with some new chrome trim and chrome bumpers and most of our effort was spent on the chassis now even though this truck looks old and decrepit from the outside you spend a whole lot of time on the chassis to make it run and drive like a brand new truck that's right off the showroom floor but if you take a seat on the inside it will drop you right back into 1965 it still has that nostalgic original feel it's just freshened up with new paint custom seat upholstery door panels and some nice gauges and steering wheel and there's a whole lot of details that we're leaving out so here's a quick look back at where we got started we bought this truck side unseen and we're very pleased to find out how nice of a patina it had on its surface it came to us from marshall texas where the sun is always shining so the elements had plenty of time to work their magic on the paint without completely rotting away the metal and this truck would actually run and drive and let me tell you it was an experience the manual shift on the column was a throwback for sure which made this truck an absolute blast even though the suspension was completely shot the engine had a slight miss and the bench seat was like riding on a horse-drawn wagon feel the bump so we didn't waste any time on low and slow we got right to work on tearing her down we're not going to be touching much of anything on the exterior but we did want to address the frame so the first thing was to remove that bed and cab off the chassis once it was all stripped down we sent it off to get a new coat of semi-gloss black powder coat and then built out the frame with an all-new suspension which will sit nice and low to the ground and greatly improve the handling of this 55 year old pickup finally we paired a gm 292 straight six with a tremec 5 speed from american powertrain which will give this truck truly a unique driving experience having a 292 straight six by itself is pretty unique however we wanted to turn it up a notch even further than that so on the passenger side we fabricated a mount and installed an s366 turbo that's putting out 11 pounds of boost now the awesome thing about that is stock this engine would typically only put out about 165 horsepower we more than doubled that and got it somewhere right at 500 pounds of torque i'd say that's pretty awesome in itself now those numbers are impressive but for me the cool thing is the unique factor because if you go to a truck show and there's 100 c10s you're mostly going to find small block chevys and ls's and perhaps the occasional big block but this one this one truly stands out from the crowd well fun to talk about fun to look at more fun to drive so i say uh let's hit the road there all right well don't wreck it yeah no promises there is nothing like the feeling you experience when you drive an old classic truck and driving this 1965 c10 and being old lawrence built is no different just because it's a custom-built truck doesn't mean it doesn't still have those same old classic and nostalgic styling cues i think my favorite part about this old truck is the sound of it because it's so deceiving or confusing for people because think about it you see an old truck like this and you're going to think oh it's got to have a v8 under the hood and then you hear that distinctive inline six sound and that whistle of the turbo and the blow-off valve and you're like wait a second i'm looking for a supra or a skyline or some sort of import car but then it'll finally click and you realize wait a second that old c10 has got a turbocharged straight six under the hood and that right there is what makes this truck so unique this is just a fun truck to drive man god don't get better does not get better [Music] i love it an old rusty truck that drives and handles just like a brand new sport car does not get any better than that next james otto's love for the c10 is mutual it was my grandfather's truck spent its whole life on a farm up in north dakota and i wanted to be pro touring truck and that's the way we built it we're not the only ones cruising the back roads in a tricked out c10 we asked our buddy country music artist james otto to join us in his 66 resto mod featured at the sema show we put our trucks side by side just to contrast how each were built in completely different styles now i don't think we could have found a cooler comparison between two trucks which started out life virtually identical and they've wound up in two totally different places so james tell us a little bit about your truck well you know it's a 1966 c10 it was my grandfather's spent its whole life on a farm up in north dakota and i wanted to be pro touring truck and that's the way we built it i love the old patina look it's a great look but this thing needed to look high-tech it needed to look like 2020 and then uh hopefully we accomplished that it's uh got an ls under the hood about 500 horse six-speed stick underneath it it's got ridetech suspension and does everything i needed to do tell me about the chassis did you start from scratch with a whole aftermarket unit or did you build off of a stock frame you know we found a stock short wheel based chassis and then uh did a frame stiffener in it and then did the stage three ride tech setup underneath it so it handles like it's on rams it's been a blast to drive i'm having fun with it now other than the patina finish the other big difference between these two is what we stuck under the hood oh yeah this one so tell us your thoughts on this c10 i love that you kept it like that i i think that that's such a cool way to do it lss are you know their belly button everybody's got one you know what i mean i love my ls and it's perfect for auto crossing and that's what i wanted to do but with a patina truck and this vibe hard to beat this is probably the coolest comparison that we could have done i think so too the juxtaposition of same body style and ending up in a completely different spot man that's what hot rodding is all about got that right [Music] well it was great hanging out with james and his beautiful c10 and it's built in a totally different style from this truck here but they're both perfect examples of classic american iron now for our truck it's time to put it to the test and see how fast it's going to go in a straight line now any time we finish a build you'll always see in us driving them on the road see how it feels and handles but you'll definitely always see us at some sort of race track and i don't even care what kind it is and the great thing about a drag strip well it's sort of a universal measuring stick because i don't care where you live there's bound to be some sort of a drag strip near your home so it's great way to compare your truck or car to any other vehicle out on the road i have no clue how quick this truck's gonna be but we're gonna find out and we're gonna have fun doing it all right well get to it you're first hopefully i don't break it uh we about to run a little c10 down the track and see how fast it goes and i don't know how fast it's gonna go hey don't break it hope i don't break it why you always worried about me breaking everything i know you too well do you [Music] [Music] may have broke it doesn't sound great lt's gonna be mad at me that's all right we might have slightly broken what's rattling so what happened was it shifting funny or what so when i went to put it in a gear and didn't want to take it so i i just stopped all right chipped it in the second when i went to put it into third it didn't want to take it turn that truck but something is wrapped that's why we trailer these things no i went from third to second no not third this dude's messing me up with numbers you know i can't count past five what so i went the second one i went to third and late didn't want it so i just had to get out lt's gonna be mad at me for a while they'll get over it and if he doesn't well you win some you lose some and complications don't really know what they are at the moment but we're going to take it back to the shop and we're going to figure it out that's all part of it you build it you break it bring it back figure out what's wrong and rebuild it some things are just better left unsaid and i really don't have anything to add so uh yeah in the trailer and back to the shop he's just upset because he didn't get the drive with our c10 i was worried that we had damaged the 292 but it turns out the flywheel bolts had backed out so it was just rattling around no big deal wanna learn more about this build check it out powernationtv.com you

Channel: POWERNATION

Views: 1,538,181

Rating: 4.6991425 out of 5

Keywords: Car, PowerNation, howto, how-to, diy, automotive, cars, trucks, automobile, do it yourself, automobiles, auto, truck, truck tech, lo n slo c10, c10, chevy c10, chevy c10 build, full truck build, truck build, restoration, restomod

Id: EbSaKzj0Gys

Length: 139min 36sec (8376 seconds)

Published: Wed Dec 09 2020