Full Build: 1981 Fox Body Cobra Mustang

well when it comes to 80s cars to me there's nothing better than a fox body mustang i mean i am kind of partial to ford's i grew up in a ford family and my mom always drove a mustang sure but i just think that the fox body is the quintessential 80s car [Music] we're calling this project sidewinder as a bit of a nod to its reptilian heritage when it's all buttoned up she'll be a mean little machine fox body mustangs have gained a lot of popularity over the years with being lightweight and that 5 liter efi engine that came out in 1986 that thing made over 200 horsepower right out of the factory this is not one of those engines this is a 255 cubic inch small block based on the windsor so it's basically a 302 with smaller bores but this stroked windsor is going to make us happy it's actually built by the guys down in engine power so we brought in mike galley here he's going to talk about what's in it yeah mark pat and i wanted to pay tribute to the original 427 but we know they're hard to find parts for and they're really expensive to make a lot of power out of it so this was a more cost effective platform to go off of it's a 351 base windsor this block is actually a dss race prep 20 block all cnc machine with over 31 operations performed to it it's filled with an eagle rotating assembly forged mala piston um capping that off as a set of trick flow high port 225s with a 70cc combustion chamber and that gave us an 11.3 to one compression ratio now we still ran it on pump gas our dyno carb was a 950 cfm black diamond and we were running inch and 7 8 headers and it made over 610 horsepower and 550 pound feet of torque so you're telling me that's going to make that fox body crazy it's going to be a handle yeah it's going to be fun to fun to drop that's what i'm looking forward to and because at the windsor it should bolt right in yeah you um you know with the high port net you're going to have to get a different set of headers because they sit you know they sit higher you don't want to bump the floor pan with the collectors and there's some other little small things but as far as motor mounts and everything in the k-member you're going to use drop right in nice thanks a lot we've got our mustang in the air now because we need to get some stuff disconnected under here in order to get the engine out now most of the time when we do this we unbolt everything real nice and stack it in the corner in case we need it later but with this car pretty much everything's getting replaced anyway so that broke out the saw [Music] ah we've got the engine bay stripped out so we can clean all of this out but before we do that we want to block off some of these holes in the firewall because they go into the inside of the car and we don't want cleaner and water to get in there so we'll just get inside there tape them off from the inside and start scrubbing we're using duct tape because it's super sticky and we're not worried about any residue that it may leave behind on the inside we're also going to use our shop vacuum to get the loose debris like leaves out of the way first then we'll scrape the heavy junk out before we start applying any cleaner well we've got our engine bay all cleaned up now and prepped and now would really be a good time to roll this thing into the booth mask the car off and then start spraying but we found a couple of issues one right here where the battery box was looks like maybe some battery acid leaked down and rusted the frame rail here so we need to clean that rust out a little bit that shouldn't take too long yeah we can add some prep to it and you know neutralize that stuff also while we were at it the radiator support down here on the bottom has been pushed back and we got to fix that with some pressure on that lower radiator support we can start massaging the distorted metal [Music] let's just see how straight that is now all right can't get much closer than that well since tommy's got our radiator support all straightened out i'm going to move on to getting this rust out of here i'm going to use this metal blaster right here get the rust out and i'm going to seal it [Music] well we've made all the repairs under the hood that we're going to be doing now it's time to spray on some shiny we've got it all cleaned up and we're ready to mask now we're not going to get very elaborate with taping this thing off we're just pretty much trying to keep anything from settling on the top of it and we're just about there [Music] that top coat is actually a durable single stage high gloss fleet paint that we got from single source man that looks nice too bad it's on a mustang well we got our engine bay all cleaned up on our fox body mustang here and we're gonna move on to this front suspension next we'll get our caster camber plates installed starting with the stud plate and spacers then the upper plate which we'll just start by hand then the coilover can come in from the bottom and the nut gets installed [Music] [Music] so well we've got our front suspension on our 81 cobra all wrapped up with the exception of that sway bar which we'll install later on we also upgraded to larger cobra brakes up there as well as the five lug but back here on the back well we've got a lot of upgrading to do this thing still has four lug axles and they're only 28 spline from the factory which is not going to handle that power we're going to throw at it that's the problem this is the solution this is moser's m88 muscle pack crate rear end this thing comes with all the moser stuff that they've been making for years to make an 8 8 stronger but with a brand new housing and complete and ready to bolt in [Music] some are harder to get to with the impact gun so we'll use a ratcheting wrench we'll also undo the brake hose from the hard line since it will stay with the old rear now it's time to set the rear down on a stand and knock out those bolts we unfasten coming up this pony needs a rear end that can plant all the power to the ground hey folks welcome back we're just about ready to get our new rear end up under our fox body mustang but if you noticed earlier when i removed the old one i left everything attached to it well that's because we got all new stuff from qa1 that we got with our suspension kit everything you see here on the table came with the stuff that we've already installed in the front as part of qa1's level 3 handling kit [Music] we'll install these onto the car using the original hardware leaving them loose for now the ideal plan is to tighten them when the weight of the car is on the suspension next up are the shocks we'll bolt them in from the top and tighten them down next is to install these poly bushings [Music] next up is the lower shock mount so i decided i'm gonna mate the engine and transmission together i think i've got everything here to do it and i'm gonna start with this release bearing we need to attach that release bearing to our clutch fork and once it's snapped in slide the fork onto the pivot shaft now before we can start installing those clutch parts we need to get the motor plate installed this one up front here is the one that came off of our mustang and one behind it the goldish color one is one we got from american powertrain now the bolt holes on the bell housing are the same but right here where the starter goes you can see the holes don't actually line up must be something different between automatics and manuals either way you gotta use this bottom this thing just slides up against the block and we'll put a bolt in it just to hold it for now next we'll knock in our pilot bearing and then grab our arp flywheel bolts which need some assembly lube on the bottom side of the head as well as some permatex thread locker on the threads the flywheel is ready to go on we'll slip it into place and install those arp bolts run them down tight and get them torqued to 85 foot-pounds a blast of crc brake parts cleaner will get all the grease and grime off the flywheel you don't want that stuff to get on your clutch disc which is the next thing we're going to install along with the alignment tool [Music] the pressure blade is next which will get attached with the bolts that came with our kit from american powertrain those get torqued to 24 foot-pounds now it's time for the wedding ceremony we'll get our engine in place and marry it to the transmission this engine makes over 600 horsepower you couple that with the fact that this thing is a unibody car well that means you're going to have a little bit of twisting going on because the unibody car isn't as structurally stiff as a car with the body bolted to a full frame and to add insult to injury we decided we were going to buy a t-top car do i regret it not one bit but t-top cars and convertible cars are the same in that they're less rigid than a full coupe would be but we've got a solution for that we've got our mustang out here on the four post lift because to install all of this chassis stiffening stuff we want the weight of the car on the suspension that way the chassis is nice and straight the way it's going to be once we get to driving it now one of the things i want to do before i start installing subframe connectors and the stiffening rails is right here on the pinch welds there's some bends here where somebody jacked the car up the wrong way over the years so i need to get those driven out at least straight that way we can get those stiffening rails in there [Music] we're just using a hammer and a ladyfinger pry bar to whack those pinch welds back into shape all right we put some longer bolts through the back of the seat mounts here and we need those longer studs sticking through there because those are going to go through these slots here on the subframe connector so i'm just going to slide it into place for now and install it with these nuts long enough for us to mark where we need to grind the paint off [Music] we'll bring our connector back in reinstall the nuts and peel off this protective plastic to reveal bare metal [Music] now if you notice here where we peeled that plastic off they'd actually installed that before they powder coated these at the factory that way once we peel them off it's just bare metal underneath so we can weld to that and then also to the part that we ground the paint off here on the car so the whole idea here is that we're connecting this front sub-frame rail to this rear sub-frame rail with this rail right here we just need to get them welded in we want to make sure we get plenty of heat penetration into both the connector and the frame rail these welds are ground zero for keeping the chassis from doing any flexing [Music] well next up are our stiffening rails i've got this one already ready to go now this is going to have to go all the way up against the floor and then all the way out against the pinch welds i've already ground where we're going to weld to the pinch welds so we'll have to worry about that just get it up in here and clamp it in do some welding time to burn some wire [Music] next are the web braces we'll tack this one in just like the rail and some of them require a little persuasion with the pole jack [Music] then we can burn them in well we've got all of our chassis stiffening stuff all welded in completely now we can get these pole jacks out of the way and hit those welds with a coat of black paint we'll be good to go the only thing we didn't install would be that lower chassis brace with the spider braces but we'll need to get the long tube headers in first before we can install those because there may be a clearance issue coming up we get under the hood to snazz it up and start on a cool exhaust system hey folks welcome back we're busy working on our 81 cobra project that we're calling sidewinder now earlier we were underneath working on the chassis but now i lowered it down and i'm working here in the engine bay before i start throwing things in here like the radiator and the belt drive and the headers there's something i want to take care of first cars from this era whether they're mustangs or otherwise they tend to have a lot of holes here in the engine bay and you could weld them up body work them and paint them but that's a lot of work besides we've already painted our engine bay so we've got just the fix these are aluminum block off panels from scot rod fabrications they make them in black anodized the way we have them or even natural aluminum or steel if you want to weld them in now they do need to be trimmed up a little bit on the edges here to get them to fit nice and tight but then they're pretty easy to install after we've trimmed the panel to fit and marked where the holes need to be we'll drill and to hold them in place for installation we're using some clecos if you don't have those you can use regular sheet metal screws for this process once we get it held in several places we can start installing the pop rivets and we'll repeat that until all the holes are riveted all right well we've got all of our block off plates installed and all those ugly holes covered up now it's time to move on to getting some other stuff installed on our engine bay here starting with the headers we picked these two inch primary stainless steel from trick flow that we got from summit racing they do have two inch primaries but they also have a three and a half inch collector and we don't need that large of a collector three inches is going to be just fine but we'll worry about that later on these are actually for drag racing and as they say if you're gonna make big power you need big headers it takes a little wiggling but success i finished getting the passenger side header installed and it was quite a bit of work but the driver's side actually went in pretty easily so it's time to move on to something else what i want to do next is measure for this drive shaft i went ahead and got the rear end compressed all the way up where ride height is going to be now i've got this yoke that american powertrain included with the kit because they're going to actually use this to make our drive shaft we just need to get it installed do some measuring to take this measurement properly you want to measure from the center of the bore on both the rear and front 46 inches even right in the middle of the bore now another measurement we need to take is going to be the length of the yoke that's going to be from the end of the yoke where it goes in the transmission to the center of the bore here from here to here i don't have to worry about taking that measurement because i'm actually going to send this yolk back to american powertrain to use this to make our drive shaft but there's one more thing we need to measure [Music] we need to measure for the size of u-joint needed at the pinion yoke by measuring the width of the joint as well as the width of the cap now according to those measurements we need a 1350 u-joint but i already knew that because that's the yoke i ordered when i ordered the rear end from mosher but if you're starting from scratch you need to make sure you measure that u-joint when you order your drive shaft up next we're thinking out of the box for a special effect patina look hey guys today we're slithering back onto our ford mustang cobra project sidewinder since the car is already prepped it's time to start masking it off in preparation for paint you may remember from the rendering that we're wanting a weathered and rusty look that will give us the patina finish that we're looking for once we finish masking in with the car in the booth tommy will mix up some primer and give the old girl a bath with a few coats to the body and hood so we will have a good foundation for the paint [Music] so with that said today's kind of a fun day we're going to be giving this car a patina finish now one nice thing about doing it this way is it saves you all that pain and effort that you got to do with all that blocking but it does require you to think outside the box just a bit and whenever i'm talking about outside the box you got to throw it plumb out the window that's right and to get it done we brought in a professional this is ted swann he's with summit racing if you can't tell by his gray hair he's got a little more experience than we do i've actually done a few of these jobs we're going to do some unorthodox techniques to deliver a patented paint job we're going to do distressing and we're going to do some rust swerving to give it that time worn look yeah but first we need to finish sanding this thing so we can get it in the boot and there's a lot to do now there's a tool in the booth that you guys don't normally see it's the denmark sx6 it's a portable lift that's going to raise the car up about a foot or so to make life a whole lot easier on us now before we get to spraying we're going to cover this thing with plastic to keep it looking nice [Music] with the car in position we will mask off the front of the engine and attach the front fascia we're ready to mix this up some material and you're probably thinking we're going to be spraying it on believe it or not we're going to be using a paint roller and some brushes because we're really needing some texture and i know you can get some texture out of a gun but we need a lot now you will want to make sure that you have a lot of paint on the roller so that you get a good thick layer on the car usually when painting you will want a nice uniform surface but in this case that's the opposite of what we want the sloppier the better so that we get the desired effect that we're after as you can see we were able to get that rough texture layer that we were looking for i'm going to fill up the old paint gun and spray on one more coat of red oxide so that we'll have a heavy base to work with and when we get started sending we won't sand through unless we want to now when we spray the jet black you will want to use more of the uniform and traditional form of painting nice even coats in one smooth pattern making sure to cover all the red oxide [Music] we're going to be sanding with 320 grit paper making sure that the surface and paper are wet when sanding you will want to put medium to heavy pressure on the car's surface sanding down until the red oxide starts peeking through when sanding you will want to make sure to sand in multiple directions to help with the distressing a little elbow grease and man we made this thing look like she has been sitting in the old junkyard for 20 years [Music] our distressed look came out pretty darn good if you didn't know any better you'd think this thing was sitting out in the elements for a couple of decades today on detroit muscle we're getting down and dirty to finish up project sidewinder then it's off to the track for a perfect pony payoff [Music] hey y'all welcome to detroit muscle today we've got our 81 cobra project sidewinder back in the shop for some upgrades what we're planning to do is stiffen this old car up a bit making riding in it a whole lot more comfortable and improve the appearance of it now what tommy's talking about specifically is the interior as you can see by this big pile of stuff behind me here the car already puked it all out already so half the work's over now we're not going to put all of this stuff back in actually most of it is going to go in the trash because we've got some restoration parts and some performance goodies first order of business is going to be installing this four point roll bar that we got from auto power it's made of inch and three quarter 120 wall dom tubing [Music] it's always easier on a job like this to have an extra set of hands to catch the roll bar as it goes into the car with it in place we'll mark where the mounting pads will need to attach to the floor because there's a seam running through there that's sticking up and it's full of seam sealer we'll scrape the seam sealer out and then we can hammer it down flat and then the roll bar can go back into place guess we need a drill we'll drill one hole and drop in a bolt in each of the four mounting plates that will keep it from moving so we can drill the rest of the holes and get all the bolts installed [Music] hey tommy you push that bottom bolt through and on the outside these plates get put on which will sandwich the car's sheet metal making this a strong and permanent installation earlier i mentioned restoration parts well this is all of it right here that we got from npdlink.com national parks depots website we got all the seals for the doors and the hatch as well as the t-top switch that stuff's kind of hard to find sill plates door handles and the rivets to install them interior screw kit and a bunch of miscellaneous stuff that you're not going to find at your local parts store we even got the dash pad now they've been in business for over four decades and they've got fox body mustang stuff but other ford vehicles as well mopar and gm and they got four locations throughout the u.s and they keep all this stuff in stock so when you order it you know you're going to get it in just a couple of days another thing is attention to detail like this headliner that's actually made for a t-top car like ours it's got the correct upholstery on it as well so if you're doing a restoration you know you're going to get the right thing as well as the visors now one more thing we got from them for the interior and that's this rug here we're gonna put that in next but tommy's got something to show you over at the car first before we get too slap happy and install that carpet we're gonna put in some boom mat from dei this is a thermal acoustic control mat and it's pretty easy to install pretty much all you have to do is make sure that the surface that you're applying it is dust free and then you just peel off the back and you stick it on we'll cut the boom mat to fit and roll it down with one of these wooden rollers that they offer we're going to apply one single layer on the floor front and back we're not covering every square inch and that's okay it's still going to do the job that looks nice shame we got to cover it up that's kind of the cost of doing business you're scaring me boss i'm going to cut myself not that time i didn't a few cuts to get it fit and look at that not bad this stuff is made to fit directly into our fox body but depending on whether or not you run carpet or you have other modifications like our roll bar or just because no two of these cars were built exactly the same some trimming is usually necessary once we get it fit we'll use a piece of masking tape to mark the top edge of our delete panel so we know where to install our support brackets to the quarter trim [Music] they get riveted into place and the tape can be removed [Music] now if you'll notice we're using the clecos here we don't really need to use these if you just use sheet metal screws that will help you get everything fit and then you can take them out put the rivets in we'll use just enough clecos to keep it from moving around so that we can drill the rest of our holes then we can remove the masking tape and start installing the rivets now we'll move on to the trunk floor panels which we'll install using the same method holes clecos and then the rivets to meet the needs in the cockpit of our mustang we went to corbeau for a set of its sportline rrs buckets these have a lot of the same benefits and features that you'd find in a race seat like side bolstering for better support also holes here for your racing harnesses to go through well the seats are universal but these brackets are not corbeau makes these for a lot of different makes and models so chances are they have the ones for your ride these are specifically for mustang now we just need to get them bolted in while mark's busy attaching the brackets to the seats i'm going to go ahead and install our belts now to attach the lap belts we're going to use the factory location here on the sides and for the ones that run up over your shoulders we're going to loop around this bar here on the roll cage we're going to bolt these lap belts in along with the factory seat belt so that we can use either one [Music] now the driver's seat can go in and with it in place we'll get all of the hardware started by hand first and then tighten them all down as for the passenger seat well it's going to get the same treatment [Music] up next we're gauging performance all the way from the dash to the nascar exhaust hey folks welcome back we're busy working on the interior of our 81 cobra project and we just about got it licked except for the instrument cluster this is the original cluster that came out of our mustang including the bezel and it's probably good if your car is still stock but we wanted to upgrade ours to give it a more racy looking to be a little more accurate so we went with this gauge set that we got from summit racing [Music] with the bezel and lens out of the way we can disassemble our stock gauge cluster [Music] see how this fits i like that these two look really nice now i need to find a way to mount our other gauges and i think i'm not going to be able to mount them the same way because the way this bezel mounts right up tight up against the face of that cluster i'm just going to have to mount them directly to the bezel and then hollow out the face of the cluster back there but this isn't going to fit in here just a little too big so i need to open these holes up first [Music] oh yeah we'll get the other three holes opened up the same way and with those gauges installed we'll trim out the face of that factory housing ah that looks good we got these switch panels from summit racing and once we figured out where we want to install them [Music] we can make a couple of cuts in the bezel since we want the two switch panels to overlap we'll clamp them together drill a couple of holes and install two bolts with them in place on the bezel we can then drill out the four remaining holes and install the hardware and i gotta say man this interior turned out great well since this is a fox body mustang most of you probably already know that there's just about any exhaust system that you can think of available in the aftermarket for this car probably more than any other car that's on the road here they are folks these are boom tubes and in case you don't know what they are this is kind of like what they run in nascar it's a muffler and a tip kind of all in one we got these from summit racing what's nice about these is they have a three inch inlet here which is nice and big but also the tip you can just run it straight out of the side just like that or you can actually come out at an angle and then make a cut here well i've got my mufflers under the mustang here and as you can see i've got them in different locations but i do have them both at about a 45 degree angle because that's set that's the way i want them to come out that way i can make a nice long cut against the rocker panel there but if you notice i put them in different locations front to back this one's further forward it's actually really close to the transmission crossmember here and it's going to dump out just about where the driver is over here it's going to be pretty loud if you want extra cool factor and you want it super loud that'd be a good way to go over here i've got it exiting back just in front of the right rear tire it's going to dump out behind any occupants that are in the vehicle so it's going to be a little bit quieter not a whole lot but what this really does is give me room here to put a mid-pipe i can put an x or an h in here i really want to put an x besides if i come out of the x it might be able to just go straight into the inlet here that's what i'm going for so i want to go with this one right here i just need to make sure it's not hanging down too low so i'm going to use the level here against the collector and it's actually almost perfectly level so i know it's not hanging too low that'll work just right all right well we've got our exhaust system all fabbed up and mocked up in place i do have to go back and tack all these joints in here make a couple of mounts and i can pull the whole system out take it over to the table weld up the joints now we can weld up all those seams [Music] and then cut through those boom tubes with the big cutoff wheel [Music] moment of truth and with our hardware in and tight we can behold the beauty of the boom tubes they're gonna be loud but who cares right they really complement the looks of our mustang and before you know it this thing is gonna be screaming coming up we'll need some arrow to help our pony hug the track plus some surprise paint tricks hey guys welcome back we're definitely moving in the right direction and this mustang is starting to look pretty good yeah and we could leave it just like this it's pretty much done except remember earlier i said we've got some arrow for it well that's next the first thing we need to do is size it up that's how far you want that to stick out i don't know as far as it'll stick out we're going to use some vice grips to hold it and then we can take some measurements ah i like that what do you think i'll make that dog a hunt all right let's get it back up get it mounted now we need to mark and drill our holes that we're gonna use to mount the splitter to the front fascia we'll use quarter 20 bolts and put plenty of them in there [Music] well we've got the splitter all mounted nice and solid and that's good if we hadn't mounted it out so far we probably wouldn't need the support but because this is plastic at speed that thing's going to move around quite a bit so we want to make sure we keep it from doing that and i've got two different lengths here i've got the shorter one here and a longer one now the shorter ones i want to put here on the outside maybe angle out just a bit just like that and if i take the longer one and move it here on the inside i think i can mount it like that and i think that'll look good even though they are at different heights i think it's still going to work out just fine but i can't wish them into place i need to drill some holes we're using some masking tape here on the bumper so we don't mark directly onto the paint and then use the support rods to help us figure out where we need to drill the holes all that's left is to drill them out and bolt them up [Music] the same steps apply to the other three and before you know it we're done [Music] well here's what we started with today on the nose of our fox body and here's what we have now man what a difference now we're dangerously close to having it 100 finished up but the next thing we're gonna do is over in the booth we got a paint project that we're wanting to do on our hood scoop if you remember back our mustang came with a big cobra decal and we're wanting to replicate that our car also has that patina paint job so we're going to follow that theme with our artwork let's lay down a couple of pieces of tape so we can mark the center of our hood scoop then we can add our graphic line it up tape it down this is a negative of the decal oh yeah don't worry it'll be cool try to keep it tight yep i got a special surprise for you mark apparently i like the the design i think you'll be rather pleased if you like the patina paint we did i think you'll really dig on this one [Music] there you go we can peel off the cover scratch up the surface with a scuff pad and give it another wipe down with our cleaner [Music] now we're ready for paint we've got three colors that we're going to be using we've got a medium orange a red oxide and a funky red first one we're going to be applying is this orange color i know that using an airbrush seems kind of slow and takes more time but it saves me the hassle of taping each color we're going to use now i know you're probably sitting there going man that doesn't look that good well by no means am i a pro with the airbrush but i actually did this for a reason since we're going for that distressed patina look you know paint deteriorates at different rates leaving some areas thinner than others with our orange dry we can move on to the red oxide we'll use the same method on this as we did before all right now it's time for us to apply our third color and i know in the mixing cups it looked completely different than those other two what we're going to do is spray it here on the eyes and the fangs and it's going to give us just a subtle [Music] difference we're going to apply our clear coat first it helps with the movement of the crackle paint we're going to use now it's time for the crackle this stuff sprays on and instantly starts adding that aged effect that i'm going after that effect turned out killer the last thing we're going to do is spray on a coat of dupli-color clear coat this has a matte finish to it and once it dries we can unmask it and see what it's all going to look like [Music] hey big man i did some painting on your hood scoop and i hope you dig it all right you ready yeah i'm excited wow dude that looks awesome that looks it looks like it's aged like it's a sticker that's aged can't touch it yeah you can touch it so i did all right yeah is that two different colors under there is that how do you do that we actually use three different colors um got the the red the orange you know they did something around the things but you can't really tell it much but that that means you did it right now it's complete right all we need is a couple of drivers and a router and we'll be ready to roll up next we're out of the shop and onto the track from sidewinder shakedown we picked up this 1981 mustang cobra a while back with the idea of building a track capable street car with all the goodies to give it the right attitude like a roll bar a sheet metal interior racing seats harnesses gauges and a switch panel and what started as this concept is now a reality and we're getting ready to put our hard work to the test after a quick drivers meeting and going through tech it was time to fuel her up get suited up because you know safety first and the only thing still not upgraded on this car is this christmas tree it's time for a fresh one [Music] we started this build it was a basically stock 1981 cobra basically it was a [Music] clean slate i mean we could have built a drag car we could have built street car only but instead we decided to build a max effort street car that could also come out on the track like this and hang with the big boys and not only that she looks good doing it [Music] project sidewinder has been one of those that's been near and dear to me personally not only because i'm a four guy but just because i got to pour my heart and soul into this build i got to decide every single little detail that was on it [Music] what started off as a concept on a computer screen turned into a a labor of love for me there's just something about being able to take a parts list and a concept and turning it into something that you can take out and truly enjoy i've got all the power i need all the braking i need all the handling [Music] [Applause] [Music] you've heard the phrase drive it like you stole it that's what i'm doing [Music] and she just keeps taking every bit of it while we're here in the winter circle not because we want to race but because we feel like we won big time at this event we had a lot of fun there were some great activities we met some amazing people and we got sidewinder out on the open track to strut her stuff and show that she can do exactly what she was built to do and that makes me proud now i get to load her back on the trailer she's going to drive right on on her own because well nothing broke and that's awesome because we get back to the shop i'm going to start a new ford project because this one right here she's done

Channel: POWERNATION

Views: 1,183,946

Rating: 4.8711314 out of 5

Keywords: Car, PowerNation, howto, how-to, diy, automotive, cars, trucks, automobile, do it yourself, automobiles, auto, foxbody, mustang, ford, ford mustang, sydewinder, restoration, detroit muscle, muscle car, suspension, patina, custom paint, graphics, Cobra, Foxbody Cobra, pony car, mustang cobra, fox body mustang

Id: x24OgbUSNMQ

Length: 43min 2sec (2582 seconds)

Published: Sun Aug 23 2020