Ford ZF5 Transmission Pops out of Reverse

this greasy hunk of metal is a zf5 5-speed manual transmission it's out of an old Ford F super duty kind of from the mid 90s it's the same truck where we rebuilt the transmission mounted parking brake anyway the problem is it will not stay in Reverse it goes in reverse and the reverse gear works but it just pops right back out so I don't know what the problem is Bent Fork or a worn A Worn Synchro ring or I don't know possibly a stretched case or something let's crack it open and figure it out check out my setup here I had a viewer on a previous transmission rebuild he says why don't you put the transmission up on your forklift Forks and I was like yeah why don't I put the transmission up on my forklift Forks kind of looks to me like somebody's already been here so usually the factory isn't this sloppy with their RTV all right [Applause] I'm getting ahead of myself supposed to pull the shift tower shift housing whatever it's called now we're supposed to remove this gear selector interlock and spring okay now I think there's two or three detents we have to remove go ahead and leave your comments down below about how you would have washed it before you started working on it well there's a fancy kind of Slide Hammer looking tool for doing this of course we don't have that we're going to use the old sheet metal screw so and a pair of side colors you three for three huh there's a couple of bolts here that hold the reverse idler shaft I'm gonna pull those out [Applause] and we're also supposed to remove this backup lamp switch actually I think I gotta take I had to flip the whole transmission the other way I think because all the gears are going to come with this bad boy there it is there's our reverse idler I think I see the problem I'll give you guys a little hint see the chunks there on the magnet oh boy well that's not going very well why are those so tight let's try an old trick here so the manual wants us to use this crazy fixture that clamps around all the shafts and the shift rails and you can pull the whole thing out as a big a big unit we of course don't have that fancy fixture so we're gonna have to kind of just manhandle it out of there I think we're gonna have pieces of it everywhere here pretty quickly okay there's our main input shaft oh you dummy forgot a screw [Applause] got it [Music] [Applause] well we've got some problems as expected here in the fifth gear and reverse Synchro pack but also check that out there's some damage to that gear so that must be oh let's see first second third fourth is direct and then that's fifth so yeah second gear took a hit here on two of those teeth I don't know what caused that to happen that's not good but the problem that we came here to fix is with the reverse Synchro so let me see if I can shift this so the Synchro should have all these little little pointy teeth and that kind of helps the the dogs line up when you go to to put it into gear and on the fifth gear side that's probably a cast iron Synchro that has some friction material bonded to it on the inside but then for reverse it's just a simple bronze or brass Synchro ring but you can see all the little teeth are are busted off so that's not good it's like the teeth are kind of rounded over too as far as the engagement so yeah that's our major problem that collar is supposed to go all the way forward and lock that gear to the output shaft so that we get reverse and it's not shifting all the way so that's what makes it wanna as soon as you put torque to it it makes it want to pop this Synchro back towards the center it's not not going to work like that we finally have parts that was a debacle like everything these days I tried All-State gear they had some of the parts they didn't seem interested in ordering the parts they didn't have same story with a couple of other vendors I finally found Midwest transmission Supply or something like that I'll put a Link in the description no affiliation they just they had the parts I needed so we've got second gear and Synchro reverse gear and Synchro and a reverse gear slider also have a gasket set and then the little caps for the detent Springs I did not order any bearings the bearings are fine the problem is we may destroy them taking this thing apart so I guess if that happens we'll have to replace them anyway we got a pull I believe pull this bearing off here this snap ring and then slide this stuff off to replace the second gear I don't know about the reverse gear if we can get to that from this end or if we got to pull the bearing off the other end [Music] that actually worked pretty well pull off there it is there's a shoulder there which means second gear and reverse gear are gonna have to go towards the rear so that was a waste of time [Music] I think it'll survive oh foreign [Applause] okay so the Hub is good but that's Synchro obviously is bad and then that gear is also bad now what we're up against another shoulder well I guess that gear does go out towards the front so it wasn't a waste of time but we have to remove this sleeve I think it's just pressed onto the main shaft so I'm wondering if we can just put this whole thing in the press and push the shaft right out of both of those gears and the slider I'm just afraid that there's a snap ring between first gear and second gear so this is our setup probably going to destroy the Synchro but we're replacing that anyways I think it's gonna work so close there it is okay sure enough there's a snap ring so I'm glad we did that this seems like an odd failure on second gear it sure looks like something got stuck between the tooth and the root and caused this deformation but the only thing that really broke off was the the teeth of this reverse gear Synchro and they're they're brass or bronze they're pretty soft and gear teeth are normally just hard as a coffin nail so I'm kind of surprised that it deformed like that normally when they these teeth fail they just chip or break they're really brittle kind of wonder if maybe this is some kind of a second rate aftermarket gear that was installed by the last guy and then the synchronizer we're supposed to have a minimum of 16 thousands between the face of the Synchro and the face of the gear and this one's basically worn down to nothing so the Synchro is essentially like a little clutch some people even call them cone clutches and this tapered surface here is the the friction part of the clutch if it wears too much you stop having friction and then the Synchro essentially stops working it's its purpose is to match the speed of the gear to the speed of the shaft so there's the reverse gear Synchro all the teeth are stripped off of it and then the teeth on the inside of the slider are pretty much gone they're supposed to protrude like that and then the teeth on the gear also pretty worn we might have been able to get away with reusing this gear but seems like a bad idea so yeah that that side locks up fine this side you know even when it's fully engaged it just foreign I've got everything clean-ish let's start putting it back together so we're going to start with second gear and the second gear Synchro so I don't know if you guys can see but the gap between the Synchro and the gear is significantly larger than it was on the old gear that thing was clapped out be able to install reverse gear and I'm just pretty sure somebody's been in here before got some hickeys on this whatever this is foreign there it is reverse neutral seems to work the thrust washer and this sleeve I think I'm going to heat those up didn't work quite like I wanted it to be beautiful foreign and this is so much simpler than that Mitsubishi transmission that we did that thing was a nightmare nope that one's not hot maybe it is thank you cool I'm gonna replace this output shaft seal even though I already replaced it when I rebuilt that parking brake comes in the kit so we might as well might as well it's time to stuff the bird we got to get this big pile of gears into this aluminum housing the book show is used in this Rube Goldberg cradle thing with a strap that we don't have I'm gonna try just hanging it off the end of the bench and we'll see what happens uh we got something wrong already this is wrong there better foreign [Applause] that's it oh crap the input shaft hmm let me still get it in there [Applause] beautiful almost like we know what we're doing and I got ahead of myself we're supposed to replace this oil baffle in the input shaft I mean I doubt there's anything wrong with this one but the kit comes with a new one so we might as well use it there we go [Applause] plus we can clean all the goo out of here now how do we install this thing without destroying it it's supposed to be six millimeters below the lip I think so we're bottomed out the manual says to use Ford something or another part number I crossed it over seems to be an anaerobic gasket maker so we're going to use some Loctite 515 it says specifically not to use a silicone based sealant not sure why I'm assuming that they're worried about space between the cases affecting the bearing preload I don't know why you couldn't use silicone I mean the last guy did and it worked for however long you know they put engine cases together with silicone sealant as long as you don't go crazy it would probably work fine hopefully this works the case is pretty pretty hickied up somebody's beat this thing with an inch of its life myself included it was glued together with silicone I couldn't get it apart [Music] thank you [Applause] these get tort2 17. uh foreign like I said 17 foot pounds I need to install the reverse B10 or whatever it is just gives you a little extra spring on the lever to get her in the reverse shift tower goes like so this is the reverse light switch it had an aluminum sealing washer it's seeing better days so I got a copper one it's a little bit thicker hopefully it works also got a copper washer on the reverse shaft bolt screw whatever you want to call it that's the original sealing washer it's got rubber molded on the inside but one of them was was MIA we are done that wasn't that bad man it's a lot of work just to replace one two three four five parts but I mean compared to other transmissions like that stupid Mitsubishi that FM 145 from the Ford Ranger this thing's a piece of cake it helps that we didn't replace any bearings that's where you really suck up a lot of time when you have to you know adjust shims and selective snap rings and check clearances if you're just tearing one apart to replace the gears it's not a big deal hopefully it works I don't know there's no way we can really check it without putting it back in the truck it does go into reverse and goes into all the gears the interlock Plate's a little sticky but not too worried about it this is a carryout job so I didn't pull it I'm not going to install it we'll have to wait to hear back from the customer that's it thanks for watching

Channel: Watch Wes Work

Views: 180,392

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Id: AdFKsOO9iLA

Length: 25min 0sec (1500 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 18 2023