to buy a transmission that can handle 650 horsepower is going to cost me over $7,000 or I can build it and save about 3 Grand well let's see if I can successfully rebuild a transmission this is part two of a two-part Series in the previous episode I drove out to Utah for collaboration with power driven diesel I personally purchased all the engine parts for the upgrade to the engine before the upgrades the truck was very close to just over 17 seconds to accelerate from 0 to 60 MPH which is awful I repeated the same test towing a 10,000lb trailer and it took over 45 seconds to reach 60 MPH with all the engine upgrades the transmission began slipping badly on the dino at just over 400 horsepower so now the engine is way too powerful for the transmission and it needs to be built to handle all the extra power upgrading the engine and not the transmission is a very common mistake that a lot of people make so let's remove the original transmission and rebuild it to handle 650 horsepower and over 1300 ftlb of torque I don't have a car lift and I'm used to rolling around on the ground on my back for a job like this and Reed and Levi are making this look way too easy the drive shaft and car bearing or loose the transmission pan is off and there's definitely some metal in the pan after the 400 horsepower run and the transmission jack is in place in order to remove the crossmember under the transmission a Jack is used to spread the frame and the transmission and transfer case are both out of the vehicle in about an hour and 15 minutes by the way Levi and Reed are both under the age of 25 and it's great to see young guys with so much talent the flex plate attaches to the back of the motor and transfers power directly to the transmission the original flex plate weighs 6.81 lb and is definitely not designed to handle more than 500 horsepower and the new flex plate is made of Billet steel which is substantially stronger and it weighs almost twice as much at 12.6 lb it's designed for around 2,000 horsepower which should be plenty for future engine upgrades the torque converter transfers power from the flex plate to the transmission the original torque converter weighs 55.7 lb and the high performance torque converter weighs 63.8 near the end of this video we'll cut open this torque converter and then we'll compare it against a triple dis high performance torque converter if you've taken the time to remove the transmission it's a really good idea to replace the rear oil seal especially on an older vehicle the power driven diesel team has a special tool for installing the seal but a piece of wood and a hammer can also work just fine the team at Power driven diesel has a very professional setup for rebuilding Transmissions but I've asked to not use it instead I want to do a rebuild as a DIY project just like it would at home let's go a and remove the transmission pan and take a look inside the magnet inside the transmission pan could be worse but there is quite a bit of metal on the magnet let's gohe remove the valve body on the transmission so we can get to the internals of the transmission so what exactly does a valve body the valve body controls the flow of transmission fluid to various components to facilitate gear shifting to remove the valve body on a 47 RE transmission it's pretty critical to assist the transmission harness and sliding out of the transmission or to likely break when removing the valve body I'll rotate the output shaft just a little in order to free up the linkage let's go ahead and remove the accumulator spring and the accumulator we're going to replace the plastic accumulator with one made of Billet the plastic has a total of two seals and the Billet has four seals let's go ahead and remove the second gear band we'll first have to loosen the 3/4 in band adjustment nut on the opposite side of the transmission I went ahead and removed the adjustment nut and the second gear band anchor is coming out and the Billet one is going back in I'll slide the strut out from under the groove and I'll also remove the anchor so why replace these with Billet steel the factory strut bends Under The High Line pressure from the new valve body and the anchor will sometimes split so let's replace these with Billet replacement parts let's first remove the six bolts that hold the transmission pump in place the pump has two threaded holes installing a couple of cage bolts into these threaded holes really helps for removing the pump from the housing I'll use a claw hammer to apply leverage to extract the pump I'll use a pry bar and apply Force to the sunshell to remove the input shaft for now I'll wait to rebuild each of the components one at a time I want to First remove all the internals from inside the transmission case now it's a good time to remove the second gear band since I bought the 1996 Ram 16 years ago I've adjusted the transmission band a couple of times to ensure proper tension and the transmission band is not damaged and still looks good the original second gear band is on the table and the replacement is on top the new band has a lot more surface Sur area and is designed for more durability let's go and remove the Mickey Mouse washer and the steel spacer as you can see there's quite a bit of wear on the washer and the copper is coming through now let's go ahead and remove the planetary assembly there's an easier way to do this but I'll do it the hard way to ensure that we get a good look at the action let's go ahead and remove the second gear lever I'll go ahead and remove the plug which locks the lever pin into position it really helps to use needlenose pliers to slide the pin towards the front of the transmission and the second gear lever is out it's a 3.8 ratio made of cast and is being replaced by 4. two ratio lever made of Billet so the new second gear lever has a mechanical advantage over the original one and it's made of much stronger material let's remove the second gear Servo next there's a snap ring that needs to be removed a nice little tap with the screwdriver and the servo cover is out so I replace the servo cover the bar at the very center of the servo begins to wear and leak over time and this prevents a clean second gear release in other words A Worn and leaky Servo causes a bind during the second to third gear shift I'll Place some shop towels on the table since we're about to make a mess I'll go ahead and remove the second gear server this specific part does cause a lot of performance problems but the replacement part is the solution let's go and remove the lower reverse drum there's a snap ring that's holding it in place that's about to take flight and the low reverse drum and the low reverse band are out of the transmission it's a good idea to check the drum for hot spots and gouges this one is still in good condition I didn't have any previous issues with reverse and the band and the drum still look great a plug transmission filter will prevent proper lubrication of the inner boore and cause damage the inner boore still looks good on this transmission so these parts can be reused removing the sprag assembly can be a little bit tricky if force is applied to one of the rollers the rollers can pop out of position easily the good news is that the rebuild kit does include a new sprag let's remove the output shaft speed sensor next it's a Halla sensor so the end of the sensor is magnetized and this one has collected a small amount of metal the overdrive unit on a 47 RE is mounted on the tail end of the transmission so let's go ahead and separate it from the main part of the transmission case the overdrive selector spacing fell out when I removed the tail housing but here's where where the spacer belongs the spacer is not a wear item and it will be reused the overdrive piston is coming out when you lose overdrive usually this seal tears and causes ging it commonly burns up the clutch below it as well let's also check for ging on the inner boore The Mating surfaces on the overdrive piston is also free of ging if there's minor ging it can be cleaned up with Scotch Sprite or sandpaper let's remove the six bolts that are holding the overdrive piston support in place the drum rides on the aluminum and this one is still in good condition there's another pin that needs to be removed let's go ahead and disassem mble the low reverse Servo once the snap ring is removed let's remove the cover and the spring and then the servo itself typically the servo holds up well so we'll go ahead and reuse it we'll reinstall new seals during the reassembly let's remove the neutral safety switch next all the parts have been stripped off the transmission case the transmission case will be cleaned up off camera so we can have a clean case for reassembly let's remove the snap ring from the front of the overdrive unit so we can remove the overdrive brake clutch if the overdrive is slipping this is probably where you'll find the problem the reaction plate usually does not experience damage and this one still looks good all of the clutches are still in good condition without any hot spots this is a part that came out of another transmission and it has very noticeable hotspots we still have two more snap rings to remove before we can extract the overdrive unit internals one of the two rings is wavy and it's designed to act as a spring to cushion the overdrive shift so it doesn't hit so violently unfortunately it is prone to braking so we'll go ahead and throw this one out and replace it with an extra clutch in its place let's remove the torington bearing and we'll check it for bluing or overheating this bearing is engaged the entire time that transmission is engaged in overdrive which puts a lot of stress on it the spring underneath this bearing takes about 850 lbs to compress so this is a very durable bearing if you're rebuilding the 47 RE transmission it really helps to dig the grit out of these two T25 screws or they'll end up stripping out there's a snap ring under the overdrive cover plate that needs to be removed in order for final disassembly of the overdrive unit and the snap ring is out and it actually looks pretty good sometimes this snap ring experiences a lot of wear and it loses quite a bit of material if there is a lot of material loss recommend replacing the snaping with a new one while the overdrive case is getting cleaned up off camera let's go and rebuild the subassemblies one at a time this will help prevent confusion and help us avoid making mistakes during the rebuild process there are three main shafts in this transmission as well as a pump the output shaft input shaft and the intermediate shaft let's split this assembly into two pieces and I'll set aside the third gear direct drum for about a minute while we rebuild the input shaft assembly let's replace the input shaft with one that's made of Billet that can handle almost twice as much torque what's very interesting is that this Billet shaft has a 40,000 of an inch hole it's a proprietary Lube modification that feeds oil into third gear clutch to eliminate hot spots and cool the clutch the bottom line is that this modification tremendously increases third gear clutch life let's free up the clutch pack and we'll take a look at their condition and all of the components are showing minor wear and tear but we're going to replace these parts anyway let's free up the input shaft and install a new Billet shaft and the entire drum slides off the input shaft let's remove the Piston from the input shaft there are two seals that we need to replace and it's time to dig into our Trans Tech rebuild kit both the old seal and the new Seal have a lip and the lip is oriented towards the pressure installing the large outer seal can easily be done by hand without use of a pick or any other tool using a pick makes very easy work of extracting the old seal let's replace the inner seal next and once again the lip of the seal is oriented towards the pressure I'll add some automatic transmission into a tray that we can use to lubricate parts and seals during the assembly process let's install three seals on the new Billet input shaft it's pretty easy to slide the two smaller seals into position the larger seal has to be locked before installation but it is pretty easy to lock once it's in position let's Slide the drum over top of the input shaft part of the transmission case has been cleaned up and I'll use it to hold the input shaft as we reassemble everything into the forward drum it really helps to lubricate the seals with fresh automatic transmission fluid before reassembly I'll use a pick to get the seal started but you can also use a slotted screwdriver the rebuild kit includes two style of Springs so I'm going to replace the old entired looking spring with one that looks the same the plastic spacer is then placed on top of the spring I'll go ahead and install install the wavy snap ring on top of the spacer a screwdriver can help fully seat the spring into the groove as they say Sally the Camel has one hump and when it comes to installation of this part the camel hump faces downward clutches and Steels should be pre- soaked with automatic transmission fluid but sometimes it's easier to follow along what I'm doing by installing the parts dry the order is pretty straightforward with clutch steel clutch steel for a total of four clutches and the reaction plate goes on top a snap ring on top will keep all the clutches and steals happy we want between 25 and 35,000 of an inch between the snap ring and the reaction plate if there's too much clearance there are selective snap rings that you can use to take up more space or another steel might reduce the clearance at this point it really helps to line up the spline on all the clutches we'll need to replace the Mickey Mouse washer but this kit includes three different options the old Mickey Mouse washer is 69,000 53,000 is too thin and 81,000 is too thick and the third washer is a match at 69,000 let's use assembly Lube on both sides of the washer before we install it now we're going to install let's also pre lube the washer that goes on top of the Mickey Mouse washer and the washer is in place so let's smear an extra dab of Grease across the top washer to make sure that this thing stays in place we're finished rebuilding the input shaft so let's move on and rebuild the third gear direct drum and the snap-on screwdriver is just not getting the job done so I'll try the doy and the doy did the job and the snap ring is out the third gear clutch pack is showing some wear and tear so we're going to trade the well-worn four clutch pack for a six clutch pack so the question is how could we add an extra two clutches the refactory reaction plate clutch is on the left and is being replaced by a machined reaction plate on the right to allow for more clutch clearance the original clutch is made of paper and as you can see it's been burned fortunately we have a much better replacement clutch material that's made of high energy semimetallic lining GPZ it's designed to handle friction and heat much better we need to disassemble this drum and I'll be using a homemade compression tool to compress a spring there is a spring compression tool that you can purchase there are two seals that need to be replaced if the vehicle seems a little lazy going into third gear this might be the source of the problem let's go ahead and remove the seal and I'll go ahead and install a new seal after we remove the third gear direct drum bushing the snap-on screwdriver needs a brake and the door is once again ready for action and the dollar doy did it once again and the bushing is out we need to install a new sleeve the power driven diesel team has turned an old input shaft on a lathe to make a tool that simplifies the process of installing the new sleeve I'm not going to use this tool since most guys probably won't have access to one of these at home I'll clean up the board with brake parts cleaner and then I'll use Loctite green 638 seal retaining comp compound to help secure the bushing in place rapidy tap tap tap and the bushing is almost fully seated just like that why not have a little fun with this I'll use the old seal to help seat the new one there's a Groove inside the drum that can be used for visual reference we don't want the bushing to fully cover this groove and fortunately it's seated perfectly in this step of the process you'll have to choose between two seals for your transmission rebuild rebuild kit includes a tech sheet for additional guidance on installing one of these two seals in the drum a problem with this seal could prevent the transmission from going into reverse these two seals look almost identical but they are definitely different the distance from the inner lip is greater with the one on the left so I'll go ahead and use that seal it's proven to extend transmission life the lip goes towards the pressure a pick really helps with installing the seal onto the cylinder so the lip of the seal will face downward since the pressure is coming from that direction let's lay the seal around the drum so that we can see the lip of the seal this will allow us to slide the seal into the groove properly and not twisted or rolled let's install the lip facing upward on the Piston so that the lip faces the pressure now that the SE is installed the Piston faces downward into the drum a generous dose of transmission fluid and all the points of contact between the inner and outer ceiling areas will set up the transmission for success with the Piston facing downward and a little side to side Force the Piston is pretty easy to fully seat into the home position let's reinstall the Springs we'll go and install Three Springs then skip two and another three springs for a total of nine I'll use the spring compression tool to put this assembly back together the spring cover goes on First and I'll lay the snap ring right on top and the snap ring is fully seated so we can remove the spring compression tool there's a steel that goes on the bottom then we'll alternate back and forth with a clutch and then a steel for a total of six clutches we'll finish off with a reaction plate that goes on top and a snap ring that goes on top of the reaction plate will keep everything in place to have a good two3 shift with no binding we're going to want 90,000 of an inch clearance between the reaction plate and the top clutch I'll avoid rotating the screwdriver to avoid damaging the top clutch the screwdriver will help make space for the filler gauge blades and the setup is very close to perfect with a small amount of tension on the gauge at 90,000 let's go ahead and align the spline on the clutches it really helps to also make sure that the clutches are centered within the drum for the assembly process and the new bushing is well protected with a generous dose of assembly Lube the drum has been rebuilt and so has the input shaft assembly so it's time to put them back together the way we found them let's remove the input shaft selective spacer clean it up and then apply some sticky green Lube to tack it in place we're about to install the drum onto the new Billet input shaft so let's go ahead and use some assembly Lube on all the new seals now for the tricky part I've already aligned and centered all the clutches but there's 90,000 of an inch Gap that allow everything to shift when I pick it up and rotate this drum 180 degrees so I'll use my hands to squeeze down and apply a downward force on the reaction plate so the clutches won't move around I'll try to line up the clutches with the input shaft teeth while keeping all the clutches aligned okay that didn't go too well I'll go and realign everything and try it again and the second attempt worked out fine at this point is pretty critical to make sure that all the clutches are fully seated there should be a very small Gap let's move on to the intermed shaft and we're going to be replacing the thrust washers we have to first remove the snap ring to remove the planetary assembly removing this snap ring with the assembly in a vertical position is a lot easier but I'll go ahead and remove it this way just to provide a better view of the process and the snap ring is off and I'll reorient the assembly to a vertical position to avoid total chaos from ensuing let's go ahead and inspect the faces of the contact points on the intermediate shaft all the contact points look good and there's no visible aluminum transfer or damage let's remove the ring gear from the top of the assembly there's no were washer it's actually built into the planetary however everything looks good with this assembly let's go ahead and lift the planetary up and off there's a pin holding each of the gears in place and a thrust washer on each side let's go and inspect each gear for excessive movement or slop we'll try rocking each gear from side to side to make sure the internal needle bearings are still in place and in good shape to avoid confusion let's go ahead and place the parts back on the intermediate shaft as we go I'll apply some grease on top of the large washer and in the path of the ring gear for lubrication and to hold everything in place I'll go ahead and set this assembly to to the side carefully and I'll make sure the planetary assembly stays on the splines let's go ahead and sort through the rebuild kit for the new thrust washer the old and gold colored washer is on the left and the new thrust washer is on the right with a generous dose of assembly Lube in place let's install the washer with the four tangs facing downward some extra assembly Lube on top will help keep the washer in place let's go ahe and lift the sunshell up and then I'll reorient it 180° so we can install it on the shaft a quick spin just to make sure it's moving freely let's set this assembly to the side for just a minute there's another another thrust washer that needs to be replaced and this one has six tangs this green goo is sticky as glue but as slick as lube and a little bit more Lube on top of the washer let's go ahead and take apart this planetary assembly to replace another thrust washer that we can find inside the rebuild kit the old thrust washer has a small amount of wear the new thrust washer has been greased so let's go ahead and align the five tangs with the slots in the planetary assembly and the spacer fits on top of the thrust washer I'll go ahead and place the ring gear on top of the planet let's secure the assembly with the snap ring and everything is moving freely as it should let's make sure the load of the assembly is resting on the shaft so we can measure the endplay and the endplay should be between 6,000 and 48,000 and we're within spec before we set this assembly aside let's Grease the faces of the contact points on the shaft two assemblies down and two more to go let's disassemble the pump assembly I'll remove five of the six bolts on the final bolt I'll support the assembly to prevent it from dropping and impacting the table I'll go ahead and I'll lift off the stator support let's first check the pump stator bushing and the bushing is still still in good shape if the bushing is damaged most people just go ahead and buy a new pump stator assembly let's go ahead and take the gear set out it's a good idea to keep the parts oriented just the way they came out just so they can go back in the same way it's also a good idea to look for abnormal wear in the gear set before putting things back together this bushing looks great and it's probably not necessary to change it out however let's do it anyway for demonstration purposes I'll replace the seal next it's probably had seal retaining compound applied to lock it into position so I'll use a screwdriver to tap the seal around the edges and then I'll drive the seal out from the top side of the assembly a few blows with the hammer and screwdriver combination and the old bushing is out let's clean up the board with brake parts cleaner before we install the new bushing I'll once again install the bushing using a block of wood and Hammer I'll seat the new bushing using the old bushing but I don't want to go too deep since there's an oil passage that we don't want to impede we need to stake this bushing into position to prevent it from moving a sloted screw driver and a hammer are the tools of choice I'll go ahead and check the bushing just to make sure that I didn't just cause a high spot on the the bushing let's use brake parts cleaner to prepare the metal for the new seal and once again the DIY Universal installation tools of choice do a fantastic job of seating the new seal a final few Taps of the hammer and the seal is ready for action everything is all cleaned up and lubed up so let's install the pump gear set next it helps to line up and center the gear set within the pump assembly so that the torque converter will slide into position I'll give the gear set a generous dose of the green goo to keep the gear set from moving out of Center let's set the entire assembly up on boards to install the six bolts if not oriented properly the bolts will not line up let's torque the bolts to 15 ft-lbs I'll go ahead and remove the old gasket I'll go ahead and remove the old seal now but I'm going to wait to install the new seal after we check for Inplay I'll go ahead and replace the two seals on the pump this is the overdrive planetary assembly and there's one set of clutches that can only slip in Reverse it's pretty rare for these clutches to need replaced and 95% of the time they are still in very good condition since there's an 800 lb spring inside this assembly it could be a challenge to work with it's a very good idea to check the snap ring if the snap ring is broken the kit includes a new snap ring and it's a good idea to open up this entire assembly for inspection mine's in very good working order so I'm not going to mess with it the transmission case has been cleaned up and it's ready for some new seals and it's out with the old seal and it's in with the new one and the new seal is fully seated and the snap ring is out of the second gear Servo so let's go ahead and replace the seal and to pick may very easy work of removing the old seal and a Servo is back together and a snap ring is in place I'll go ahead and replace the outer seal on the servo on the bottom that's a scarf cut Teflon seal that I need to size up and replace from the kit there are several sizes in the kit so I finally found a match and I'll install the new seal let's prebe the transmission case before install the second gear Servo the servo is in place if you purchased an aftermarket valve body it probably came with a stronger spring I'll go ahead and install the servo spring and then lubricate and install the new Billet cover to compress the spring it helps if you can put something similar to what I'm using to serve as a lever while you install the snap ring I'm I've attached the spring compression lever to the transmission using the transmission pan bolts having a second person to assist with this step is another great option let's lubricate the new Billet Servo with transmission fluid and install it before we replace the low reverse Servo let's replace the seal the lip of the seal faces up towards the pressure it helps to get this Servo started at an angle to avoid damaging the servo seal on the sharp edge of the transmission once the servo is in the servo spring and the cover are pretty easy to work with it helps to use a screwdriver for installing the snap ring the servo lever is held in place with a steel pin I'll go ahead and lubricate the pin with transmission fluid before installing it the pin is installed through the front of the transmission case let's install the plug that secures the pin in place I'll use thread sealant just to make sure that it stays in position let's install the overdrive piston support and Gasket there are six bolts that secure the overdrive piston support in place the spec calls for 13 ft-lbs of torque which is probably a little too much and could possibly damage the bolts so I'm going to go with 12T lbs to avoid causing damage let's install the low reverse brag next I'll go ahead and set the transmission band in position now add some transmission gel to make sure that it's properly lubricated let's set the drum into the transmission case the drum should only spin clockwise the sprag will prevent the drum from turning counterclockwise the thrust washer kit includes a new metal washer to replace the plastic spacer the side with the groove faces down and I'll add some transmission gel to make sure that it's properly lubricated there's a snap ring that secures everything in place let's install the low reverse lever but I need to First replace the two seals on the pin before we install this pin let's install a separate pin in the transmission case next to the overdrive piston support I'll have to temporarily hold up the transmission band and the transmission band will rest on the pin once the pen is installed applying transmission fluid to the new seals will help protect them during the installation process let's get this overdrive piston assembly back together the seals go on the outside let's install the overdrive piston seals next beginning with the large outer seal I'll have to be careful not to damage the seals during assembly or this will be a source of a transmission link this seal has a lip the lip of the seal faces towards the pressure the small inner seal also has a lip I'll Orient this lip to also face the pressure in the same orientation as the outer seal let's install the overdrive piston into the overdrive piston support I'll go ahead and lubricate the overdrive piston seals in the Piston support with the automatic transmission fluid there are two pins in the Piston that need to align with the holes in the Piston support this prevents the Piston from spinning and damaging the seals it really helps to use a pick to get the seal started before seating the Piston after it's installed it's a good idea to rotate the Piston from side to side just make sure that the two dowels on the Piston are seated into the two holes let's shift our attention to the overdrive case and remove the seal from the bottom of the case after cleaning up the case with brake parts cleaner I'll apply some retaining compound to the seal and the block of wood and the hammer once again does an excellent job of installing the seal let's set the overdrive unit on top of a couple blocks of wood so that we can install it inside of the overdrive case I'll go ahead and install a snap ring inside the overdrive case it's so nice seeing this transmission going back together with all the new parts installed it took a couple of attempts but the case is finally fully seated and the snap ring is in place let's give it a spin and this thing is definitely ready for action let's reorient the case with the front of the case facing upward so we can install the clutches one of the two snap Rings need to be discarded and it's the one that's wavy the old clutch pack has five friction plates and the new one has six I'll go ahead and I'll install the flat snap ring into the case let's install the new clutch pack next before installing the transmission clutches definitely soak the transmission clutches in some transmission fluid everything is in place so I'll install the snaper let's go and install the brand new made in USA torington bearing from the kit next I'll pre-o the torington bearing in some transmission fluid let's install the selectable spacer into the main transmission case this spacer makes contact with the torington bearing that we need to install in the overdrive case I'm now going to transfer the torington bearing from the overdrive case to the main transmission case I'll rotate the torington bearing to face it down to properly Orient it there's a lip on the bottom center part of the bearing we want this lip to be facing downward with the lip facing downward it'll keep the bearing in POS position if the lip on the tored bearing is facing up there's a very good chance that it won't stay on the spacer I'll go ahead and line up the new gasket that goes between the overdrive case in the main transmission case let's set the overdrive unit on top of the transmission I'll apply some RTV adhesive to the bolts before installing them I'll get all the bolts started before tightening any of the bolts let's go ahead and torque the bolts to 25 ft-lb now's a good time to install the speed sensor let's go ahead and reinstall the T25 screws that hold on the gasket in the cover for the snap ring let's install the intermediate assembly next I've already coded the contact points with assembly Loop I'll reach into the case and we'll place a hand under the sunshell as I lower the assembly into position gently now that everything's in place I'll rotate the entire assembly just to make sure that everything is lined up and working properly it's a good thing that I did rotate the assembly or it wouldn't have seated properly this is a very common problem that people run into and this is how things should look once everything is in proper position we're getting a lot closer to being finished and it's time to install the input assembly it takes a lot of finesse to get everything lined up just right there is a pretty helpful way to know when everything is fully seated it'll make a sound like this that's the sound we want to hear if this isn't seated properly it'll mess up the Inplay and pretty much Destro the transmission in the first 20 miles the gasket is upside down so I'll flip it over into the proper position and the transmission pump is lined up with all the holes I'll lower the pump down into position with the vent facing the top of the transmission I'll look down into the holes just to make sure that they're lined up with the bolt holes I'll install the seals in just a minute but I want to First check the run out before final assembly I've applied lubrication to the pump assembly I'll go and tighten the bolts temporarily let's place a dial indicator down into the transmission case so we can measure the endplay the endplay should be between 34 and 84,000 of an inch I'm applying a lifting force on the input shaft and the dial indicator is showing 50,000 of an inch of endplay the Inplay is well within spec so let's pull the pump and install the outer o-ring seal let's go ahead and remove the pump gasket so we can install the second gear band there's pretty much just one location that works for in installing the band I'm going to place a rag in the bottom right corner of the transmission to prevent an object from falling into the overdrive assembly that would be a problem on the upper right side of the case I'll attach the new Billet anchor to the transmission band the new Billet strut on the left slides into position around the Tang that's on the band everything is in place so I'll go ahead and tighten the band adjuster a couple of turns so that nothing falls off let's reinstall the pump gasket before installing the pump let's go ahead and install the seal I'll go ahead and lubricate the seal and the transmission housing before installing the pump on the transmission if the pump washers are damaged you can use new ones that come in the kit all of the pump bolts are fingertight I'll go ahead and torque the pump bolts using a star sequence to 15 ft-lb let's loosen the adjustment nut so we can adjust the band I'll go and tighten the band to 72 in lbs now let's go ahead and back it off three full turns and the band is now properly adjusted let's go ahead and tighten down the nut to lock the adjustment screw in place I'll torque the low reverse nut to 25 ftlb let's adjust the second gear band next you'll need to use an 113 seconds 12 point to adjust the band let's tighten the band to 72 INB the manual calls for backing off 1 and 7/8 turns however I am using a high performance valve body and the band is going to stretch so I'm just going to back the adjustment screw off 1.5 turns instead of 1 and 7/8 let's tighten the nut to 30 ftlb to make sure the transmission band stays in the proper adjustment all this hard work is about to pay off as we're going to air test the transmission as we near the finish line so what are these holes for from bottom to top the holes are third forward lock up and release we only need to test the bottom two holes when Mississippi count is perfect if it's a one Alabama we're going to have to start over and I'm just kidding let's move up one hole and run the pressure test again and that sounds good let's go ahead and test the second gear Servo next there you go that sounds good if you have like a rip seal or something it will just collapse immediately let's test the low reverse Servo there you go that sounds great let's test the over overdrive let's go Ahad and check the check valve by covering the hole then pressurizing it and finally uncovering the hole so the Piston is holding air and a check valve is not stuck fortunately all the air checks came out very good so this transmission should be hydraulically sound the accumulator spring on the right is a spring that came from the factory and we're going to replace it with the spring on the left let's install the parking Rod into the transmission this step causes a lot of DIY Builders uncertainty from time to time the parking Rod will feel like it's running into a spring at this point rotate the transmission output shaft slowly while continuing to work with the parking Rod to move it farther back towards the rear of the transmission if it's installed properly it should go in and out freely also it should go past the center line of this hole now that we know it's in the proper position let's rotate the output shaft a little bit more to secure the parking Rod so it cannot fall out the rod is secured and is pretty close to the center of this hole which serves as our reference point I'll place a screwdriver under the parking Rod to hold it up while I attach it to the valve body let's go ahead and lay the valve body body on top of the transmission and move the parking Rod into position and the clip is in place and the parking Rod is secured and the valve body is now fully seated onto the transmission there are four long three medium and three short bolts I'll go ahead and tighten the bolts to 108 inbs let's go ahead and install the Deep transmission pan assembly starting with the filter spacer there's an O-ring that goes between the valve body and the aluminum block I'll go ahead and torque the bolts to 35in pounds let's install the transmission filter which is held in place by two screws I highly recommend changing the filter in the fluid after 1,000 Mi the clutches will shed quite a bit of material during the break-in period and we definitely don't want the filter to become clogged the Deep transmission pan kit comes with a poor quality gasket I'm going to switch it out for a plastic reusable gasket that'll provide a lot more durability the pan bolts need to be torqued to 10 ftlb last but not least let's go and install the neutral safety switch along with the new seal so how exactly does a torque converter work will from Power driven diesel will explain it we cut it open this is called the pump the engine suspends this and it makes fluid move from centrifical force it goes out then it goes down around it's forced in through this stator the stator veins are controlling the flow of oil it's giving you torque multiplication cuz this is spragg one way and then that fluid is flowing into this this is the turbine this is what actually connects to the input shaft so that's how it's twisting but this is floating it's not splined anything it's just oil pushing on here Mission goes into lock up this assembly that's splined onto here when it commands lock up this applies and locks this cover to this back cover look at these hot spots on yours see this friction lining so this supplies hydraulically down when it locks the converter so when it was slipping on the dyno friction was spinning on here the blades were still transmitting most of the torque but not all the torque was getting there cuz this was slipping okay so that's a single disc this has welded nuts your new one is solid see the reason why that's bad and they have it solid because this can Flex away taking more of the load on these points and that's why it's all hot there and bowing and so then you have solid contact here in minimal that's not spread that's why they make a Billet cover that's solid metal so this is a triple disc torque converter the power goes through here normally this turbine section is is attached to this the input shaft spins and the turbine when it goes into lockup hydraulic pressure pushes this down and this Billet plate connects to this back Billet plate through the frictions so now the engine which is boled to this is coupled one to one of the input shaft there's no slip this is a much heavier plate this is a triple disc in torque converter world every side of a friction they count as one disc so this one disc applies against this floater plate floater plates spline to the outside this disc is splined to the middle or input shaft so that's one active disc then the bottom side of this applies against this now you've got two discs bottom side of this applies against this spillet back cover three big difference on the back cover they both look very similar here however one this has a much bigger feed so more oil can come out of these holes H here so that it can't starve to back cover so it's way more rigid this is thin with welded and this is solid Billet machine pieces I was extremely pressed for time with only 4 days to complete all the engine mods and film the transmission rebuild while I was filming the rebuild of the transmission over the course of a day and a half the power driven diesel team installed a transmission that was already rebuilt exactly like the one I put together they also installed a new rear main seal and new transmission lines while they were doing the work we've got transmission Flo in the transmission so let's take this thing for a spin Todd is one of the owners from Power driven Diesel and he wanted me to drive my truck before going for a ride in his truck oh man all right now we're coming it's alive oh yeah and we're at 60 so this is like everyday drive though oh my goodness wow that's awesome and the smile on my face says it all I then went for a ride in Todd's 1500 horsepower daily driver oh myo there's your 70 M hour roll Tire spit at 70 mph very impressive so engine upgrades have been done the transmission's in place gentlemen what's your guess on horsepower like 485 this is the 550 package but we didn't maximize the timing and we don't know know quite how high the wastegate set on the turbo just with the intolerance my guess is 495 500 I'm confident these guys what's the goal I don't even know what the goal was to start with it was at least 500 5 550 oh it's going to make 500 I promise you the goal we're going to make it 500 500 coming baby the left side of the screen shows speed in miles per hour top Center is horsepower top right is torque bottom center is exhaust gas temperature and bottom right is Boost and the truck just made 527 horsepower and over 1,200 ftlb of torque very impressive before the engine upgrades it took the truck 17 seconds to make it to 60 that's a lot slower than Grandpa's Buick after the upgrades the truck is just way too powerful to get an accurate 0 to 60 time on slick Backcountry roads even with the gentle takeoff there's quite a bit of Tire spin 7.5 seconds under very little effort is very impressive and 10 seconds faster than before the upgrades it was almost impossible to pass a vehicle on a two-lane road safely before the upgrades the truck needed almost 10 seconds to accelerate from 40 to 60 MPH after the upgrades Less Than 3 seconds to get from 40 to 60 MPH very impressive I drove just over 12200 M from Missouri to Utah I averaged almost 15.5 MP gallon driving the speed limit which was 75 mph the axle ratio on the Dodge is at 4.1 which is very poor for higher speeds I went ahead and threw out the Third Leg of the trip on fuel economy since I couldn't achieve an accurate test since I threw out the final leg of the trip through the mountains in Utah it only seems fair that I threw out the results on the return trip home driving over the same stretch ofad roads the truck did achieve close to 2 MP gallon better fuel efficiency advancing the timing better fuel injectors and a better turbo all seem to make a big difference re thank you so much for all the work you did on the truck what's your favorite brand of tools so my favorite brand of tools would probably have to be snap on as far as tools go but I mean as you can see I have some Harbor Freight boxes andol I have one very special ratchet let's check it out and I mean as you can see most of my ratchets are Snap-on like this and this costs about a little over 300 okay and this is my Pittsburgh ratchet that also cost about $32 300 for a Pittsburgh ratchet are you serious for this Pittsburgh what makes this fact what how did you pay 300 for it well no but the cool part with this ratchet is you can pop that off and then go ahead and count how much money is in there so that's why it's worth so much one 302 302 yes sir oh man that's awesome thank you so much for showing me your ratchets here if you want to go ahead and just Pedro what's your favorite brand of tool um I like Capri tools Capri tools tool all right you got any Capri tools up here surprisingly no they're pretty much snap on in Harbor Freight so what's your favorite Harbor Freight Tool so far I really really like these little dkes right here oh yeah so they stay nice and sharp they're very sharp surprisingly but they're really good so you help build the transmission in my truck yes sir all right man thank you very much I really appreciate it you did an awesome job if you had to give some advice on making a transmission lasts 300,000 miles what should they do should you change transmission fluid or should you just drive it from day one and never change the fluid make sure every fluid is changed every 30,000 M on them all right Pedro from Power driven diesel no sponsors no freebies and I pay for everything so the question is was it worth the $10,000 to upgrade the engine and the transmission absolutely I saved about $60,000 compared to buying a new truck and my opinion that's a huge Victory a big thank you to the team at Power driven diesel they're very professional and I greatly appreciate the collaboration finally all the videos in this channel including this one are viewers suggested so if you have a video idea I hope you take time to leave a comment thanks so much for watching please take care and look forward to next time
