Ford Focus ST - Full Detail On Soft Black Paint (Vlog 9)

hey guys sendou here from car craft Auto Detailing in Melbourne today's car in for a complete correction and coding detail is this black Ford Focus ST as per usual I'll be talking you through this entire process from start to finish and I'll also be focusing on the technics products that I'll be using to transform this car to its absolute best condition now with are these long as they tell them videos do cover quite a large portion of what's involved in more in-depth paint correction and protection detailing they quite simply can't cover everything that's involved on a job that can take well over a week to complete so as you may have seen in some of the past videos on this channel I've been focusing in and expanding on a few topics areas and products with each of these videos so that hopefully as a whole these videos will be a good source of information and also interesting and entertaining to watch at least for those of you out there that do love cars and enjoy the rewards of restoring and keeping them looking at their best and for those of you out there that do prefer to have an experienced professional detailer to the work I hope these videos do help display and bring awareness to what's really involved in quality detailing work where it's not just about getting the job done but rather taking it to the next level whilst showing a little care respect and passion for the work car and customer so where each and every car detail begins is with a pre inspection this is all about determining the overall current condition of the car's paint trims and components it is best to do a more in-depth paint inspection once the car is washed and decontaminated as really only after you remove the surface contaminants will you be able to truly assess the paint but before I even touch the car as a means of estimating the work and time involved and more particular products methods and tools are be needing a more basic inspection is a vital step to help structure my plan of attack for each and every individual vehicle as you can hopefully say having a look at this car in the shade is a very different experience to having a look at it with an inspection light or in the which I will be showing you a little later so what this basic inspection has revealed to me is that this car is in fairly good condition and appears as though it's been well-maintained however the defects I'm seeing at this stage are wash induced swells Holograms from previous paint correction there's also a light uniform layer of oxidation over the paint as well as a buildup of road grime and calcium deposits in certain areas and the rims have been repainted in a satin black which can't be polished in his displaying chips and flaking of the paint so what this tells me is that although the general condition of this car as a whole is actually pretty good and a fairly standard decontamination stage with perhaps the added step of using smaller brushes to help live some of the build-up grime in the panel trim and edges should be a great way to proceed so starting with the wheels I'm using a prototype degreaser tire cleaner that I have been testing for months now and you may have seen in a previous video or two this product is another that may actually be available soon as it's proven to be perhaps the most effective tire and wheel arch cleaner I've ever used yet it's shown itself to be extremely safe on paint and plastic trims the benefit of this tire cleaner is that it can really strip off any tie dressing as well as the road grime in these areas to thoroughly clean and prepare the tires and wheel arches for protection or addressing and what I've noticed since using it is that the tire dressings seem to bond more effectively without any sling lasts longer look better and in most cases there's no need to even physically brush or clean the surface as a simple application dwell and pressure rinse off seems to be extremely effective with this cleaner which makes it a great time efficient product as well so in the footage you can see that one toy was brushed clean while the other was simply rinse down and both looked completely clean and revived with the white sidewall lettering being restored to a brilliant vibrant white the rims are treated with Concours purge wheel cleaner which I've discussed this product in great length in a few of my past videos and the rims were also given a thorough clean with a variety of wheel brushes and mints to dislodge the accumulation of brake dust and road grime on rims that have a matte or satin finish in particular it's extremely important to be as safe as possible when cleaning them as you can't polish will correct them without creating shine or altering the finish so as a general rule start by treating them with your wheel cleaner and then pressure rinse them down which should remove the vast majority of brake dust and road grime which is predominantly what causes scratches on the rims as you brush and hand wash them [Music] [Music] next was the pre-soak foam for this I used snow + intensive Car Wash detergent and a 1 to $10 in ratio snow plus is a slightly off pH balance decontamination wash product that has a far greater ability to strip the cars paint and surfaces from environmental contaminants in any existing wax or sealants whilst being completely safe as I've literally used it to wash hundreds of cars without a single issue at all it's really important to understand the difference between a regular maintenance car wash in which you should use a gentle pH balanced wash product compared to a decontamination wash procedure where a slightly more aggressive yet safe car wash product is vital to prepare the paint for the next correction stage and again I've gone through this topic in many past videos which I explain in greater depth the reasons why as the snow foam is given time to dwell in order to soften the bonded dirt and grime I used a couple of new test brushes to help me dislodge the built-up gunk around the more intricate trim areas to assist the next pressure in stage in cleaning them out and off the paint the brushes themselves were actually quite good and although I really liked the quality of the black plastic brush which felt really nice and solid without shedding any bristles at all or much prefer the feathered bristles of the wooden handle brush there although it did shed a few it seemed to be more gentle and able to flex and conform to the trims far better I also want to quickly touch on why or why not brushing trims is appropriate or effective it really comes down to the specific car and dirt or grime you're trying to address now things like the greenish calcium deposits around car badges or metal trims really aren't gonna budge in my experience by using a brush in the wash stage even with more aggressive traffic film cleaners so my experience brushing is more so effective at removing or rather helping the pressure washer remove the less bonded dirt and grime in those areas I've actually done a few Ford Focuses in the past and they have much more black plastic trims than almost any other car where something like a new Mercedes has almost none at all and with the dirt and grime on these trends seems to be trapped more prominently on the Ford Focus which does benefit from a trim brush clean on many other cars with different trims and surfaces they really don't benefit at all from this process so all I'm trying to say is don't go through the motions of brushing or other cleaning preparation processes if there really is no benefit to be had other than making you feel like you're doing something positive when in reality your time is best spent elsewhere and not every car is the same so take the time to really inspect it and then we inspect it once you're done and that'll tell you if what you're doing is working and benefiting from new results or perhaps a waste of your time the car was also given a thorough pressure winds down and I do mean thorough rather than a quick 1 minute job to remove all the Lucid grime I honestly can't reinforce just how important these stages and reducing the likelihood of scratching and damaging the paint so take your time and don't just wave the water about but go through the car panel by panel making sure the high-pressure beam has made contact with every square inch of the vehicle the next stage was the hand wash for this I use snow plus in a spray bottle once again at a 1 to 10 dilution if you want to know more about this wash method have a look at my new one bucket or no bucket wash method video for a comprehensive explanation on this car washing technique but I just had one thing that I've adopted since using this method which is to give the wash men a good squeeze to start with once you've applied the detergent to cover and Prime all the microfiber strands which ensures the wash mint will be both safer and more effective with all the fibers coded in the carwash solution right from the start [Music] [Music] for the next chemical and mechanical decontamination stages I once again use purify which is both an iron and traffic film remover as well as a clay lubricant so in essence you're able to treat the paint with both of these decontamination processes in one step chemical decontamination is a process in which I entire and traffic film removers are applied to strip the paint of those particles usually in a non manual or physical application when mechanical decontamination is a follow up step where you're physically or mechanically removing the more stubborn and embedded particles in a manual process with the use of clay bars or mints a product such as purify is a great time-saver that allows you to perform both of these steps in one single stage what's been extremely effective and both time and cost efficient the chemical is simply sprayed onto the surface given a minute to begin working and then you proceed by claiming the treated section it's best to work one or two panels at a time and then rinse the area down before moving on to the next so once the focus was completely decontaminated it was given a quick pat down dry using a microfiber towel and then pulled into direct sunlight to have another look at the condition of the paint in its true clean and bare state now quite honestly I wasn't seeing anything in relation to defects that I didn't see during the pre-wash inspection the only real difference is that the defects were much easier to see with the paint being completely clean and free of any waxes or sealants which will fill in minor defects so overall the defects are the same but just a touch worse than my first inspection revealed which again is why the post wash and decontamination inspection is really so important and the one that truly reveals the paint's true condition so once the car was pulled inside compressed air was used to blow out the remaining water from all the panel seams and crevices this is really done for the masking tape stage as any remaining water just loves to make it to the trim you're masking basically preventing the tape from securely bonding and causing real headaches if you don't have a completely dry vehicle before you start taping up next was the IPA or alcohol-based wipe down now this is another topic I've covered in greater links in previous videos but just briefly I'm using clarity which is an alcohol-based cleaner that is a vital step to be performed before during and after paint correction you'll see me using this product frequently throughout this and all my videos basically it's used to remove any standing residue from the wash stage so that the residue doesn't interfere with the polishing or correction stage and it's used during the correction stage to ensure that I'm truly and correctly assisting the finish without the interference of compounds and polish residue altering my results and lastly it's used after the correction stage is completed to ensure the paint is correctly prepared for the protection stage of applying a wax sealant or coating to the finish without causing bonding or durability issues down the track so all in all it's my most used product by far and the importance of it can't be overlooked so with the paint now truly clean dry and bare it was time to mask the plastic and rubber trends as I mentioned earlier I've done a few Ford Focuses in my time and one time consuming thing about them is a huge amount of trends that do need to be masked before the correction stage which does actually take longer than you think and a lot more masking tape than you'd expect but like I said before every car is different and there are some cars out there that literally need little to no masking at all now although I've gone through quite a lot of paint inspection stages in this video indoors with low lighting and my handheld and studio inspection lights is how I personally like to inspect and judge the paint and defects as I know from previous experience that under these lights and conditions is where the paint always looks its worst so if I can get the paint looking great under this sliding it'll look amazing and there any other lights now depending on the situation sometimes I do need a pre-wash inspection or an outdoor sunlight post wash inspection as that's the conditions I have to work with so I did want to show all of these scenarios in this video and the differences between each inspection stage and the influence of the available light and conditions which really does make a massive difference in your ability to truly assist the paint in the most accurate way possible [Music] the final stage before starting my test section is to take a few dozen paint thickness readings to help me determine a few things such as the general thickness of the paint whether it's been aggressively sanded or compounded in the past and if its original paint or if it's had panels repaired and repainted in the past which are all things that will alter or affect how I decide the process in the paint correction stage now the good news is is that it has a healthy paint thickness level of about 125 to 150 microns or five to six mils which is also very consistent throughout meaning well-maintained paint with no reefs praise or aggressive correction in the past from a paint correction perspective there really is no concerns or restrictions that I need to worry about and I'm able to proceed quite comfortably and just concentrate on finding the best combination of compounds pads and technique that is going to yield the best results so I'm going to jump straight into the correction testing phase starting with the last cut compounding glaze and trying it with a few different pads on this paint starting with the repairs yellow wool pads and the shine mate 6:03 mini dual action polisher now overall I was actually quite happy with the cut which seemed to correct a good 90 to 95 percent of the defects out in a single set of passes however the finish was slightly hazed though at the same time it's a great even light haze that is most likely due to the softness of the paint the next section was with the same compound but using the Ripper's blue wool pad this time as far as the user experience goes it was again really nice and more or less the same as with the previous yellow pad though again the wipe off was just a little harder than it should be looking at the results and comparing these first two sections I could see a slightly better defect removal with the blue pad really achieving 95% plus success in that area but when looking at the finish it was actually so very close with very little between them though if I had to say I'd give a slight edge to the I pad just having a touchless haze in its finish the third section with the last cut was using the Lake Country fiber cutting microfiber pad now overall I'd have to give a slight edge to the rippers wall pads for a smoother user experience with less friction and better rotation but really the microfiber pad still had a very nice user experience and the wipe off was actually easier and just as I'd expect with the last car now as far as defect removal goes which we'll have a look at once the next section is complete it really was a hundred percent defect free but the finish was actually a slight step down compared to the previous wall pads with a little more haze and micro marring the final test in this first phase was with the buff and shine euro fibre pads there was actually very little difference in the user experience with this microfiber pad compared to the light country pad with both working and feeling relatively the same in this particular instance and I have to say that it was pretty much the same scenario when it came to the results both sections showed fantastic defect removal but pretty much equal levels of haze and marring in the finish so apart from the specific results with these pads I had a pretty good idea based on how easy the defects were to remove and how much haze was in the finish that this was a fairly soft paint I was working with [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] the next testing phase was with the angel wax resurrection heavy cut compound using the same four pads starting with the Lake Country microfiber pad once again the user experience was quite good but I would give a slight edge to the last cut for its increased lubrication and overall user experience but honestly they both work great the results however were a very different case hopefully you can see the increased Hayes and Holograms in the finish that is a very clear indication that this compound and pad combination is far too aggressive for this paint but what really stood out to me was the inconsistency of the finish whether its distinctive marks and increased haze in certain areas while other areas aren't so bad this once again comes down to resurrection perhaps not being the best compound with microfiber pads like I've mentioned in the past microfiber pads are more demanding material to work with and quite honestly certain compounds that work fine with foam or wool just don't work well with microfiber at all the next section was with the buff and shine microfiber pad yet again the user experience was quite nice and it really wasn't much to distinguish these two microfiber pads from a user friendliness point of view with little dusting good lubrication and a nice easy wipe off having a look at the results I could see the same inconsistency in the finish with a compound and pad have produced varying levels of cut and finish throughout the Test section overall the finish with a buff and shine is slightly better but really not what I call great at all now having more or less cut with a compound pad as well as having a better or worse finish is one thing but having results with these sorts of variations is something you really can't or shouldn't proceed with as the material removal of the clear coat is just too inconsistent and will cause a patchy finish that will require more work and material removal to fix and rectify it microfiber is a material that loves to grip and hold on to everything and unless you have a compound that is able to lubricate and allow its abrasives to shift and move during the polishing cycle you will see these inconsistent results especially with more aggressive compounds on a softer paint type such as this the third section was with the reverse blue wall pad now the actual user experience was better with this pad in comparison to the previous microfiber pads but really the user friendliness has been quite good with all the pads so far the real difference here which was quite dramatic came with the results the cup was actually great with this pad and more importantly consistent throughout the entire section and although the finish was still quite hazed it was a massive improvement compared to the microfiber pads this is really a great example to show how much influence your pad material and compound choice can have on both the cut and finish now with the last cut compounding glaze it simply works great with just about any pad it comes across but other compounds do you need to be tuned to certain pads if you want to extract their peak performance the last section in this test phase was with the yellow rubies wool pad overall I have to say that from a user experience I do like these pads as they have great rotation around curves and a good balance of cut and finish in general but I just wish they had better durability as they just don't seem to last very long at all but that aside the yellow wool pad was by far the best combination with angel wax resurrection on this paint the cut in defect removal was again great and more than sufficient and although there was still quite a bit of haze as with all the combinations so far it was still the best finish with this compound by far [Music] [Music] the third testing phase was done with Jess car correction compound starting with the Lake Country microfiber pad and using the larger 12 millimeter Xiaomei polisher which incidentally is one of the best finishing polishes on the market with its smaller orbital throw so if I can't finish well with this polisher chances are that no other polisher will as well Jessica really does have a nice overall user experience and in general is another compound that does work well with a variety of pads in this particular case on this particular plane however the finish was a touch inconsistent with actually quite a lot of haze and slight Holograms but really not as bad as the finish with angel wax resurrection using the same pad the difficult middle was quite good at about 95% but still not quite as good as the last cut with the same pad next up was Jess carve with the buff and shine microfiber pad again the user experience was spot-on with next to no dust and a great easy wipe off now the cut may vein ever so slightly less compared to the last section but I'd still say it was a good 90% plus defect removal but the finish was actually much improved being one of the better ones with microfiber so far on this paint type the third test with the Jess car was on the blue repairs wool pad once again as soon as I moved from the microfiber pads to the wall I can immediately feel less friction with the machine and better lubrication that these repairs pads seem to provide as far as defect removal goes this section was a step down compared to the previous microfiber sections however the finish was clearly better again with better clarity and less haze the last section in this testing phase was with the rippers yellow wool pad now as far as defect removal goes this was actually the worst section by far but still I'd say was close to 90% as all these compounds and pads seem to be removing the defects quite well on this softer paint type the finish was actually the best one with Jess car so far and this yellow wool pad proven to be the best finishing pad out of all the wall and microfiber pads so far with all these compounds as a final test in this comparison I use concours precision with the light country blue HDI foam pads as a benchmark combination to use it as a measuring tool in judging the upper combinations many of you may know that this compound and pad choice is a favorite of mine for the fact that it works extremely well on most occasions from a user friendly experience it's really not the best or worst combination but the results is where this combo really shines as I remove the tape lines and give the panel another alcohol wipe down you'll hopefully be able to see that no other combination comes close to achieving these results especially on this softer pane the cut of precision with a blue HDI pad in this particular case was actually able to achieve almost complete defect removal but the finish is where you can really see the difference now considering the precision is a somewhat aggressive compound together with the blue hedge co pad it's truly amazing to see just how well it finished on this soft black paint but in reality the foam pad is just able to finish far better than any wall or microfiber pads on this particular paint but with that aside the next best section with great difficuity and a reasonable finish is the last cut with both the rubies yellow and blue pads but the truth is that no compound or cutting pad is going to finish flawlessly on this paint an even precision with the blue hedge co pad will need a second stage with a finishing polishing pad to get perfect clarity on this paint time for another testing phase with a less aggressive compound I decided to use show concepts s20 which is more of a one-step or mating compound and further tests it with a few pads starting with the Ripper's blue and yellow wall pads to see how a finer compound would perform on these pads overall the finish is actually the best one with these pads so far so it does display the fact that these pads can still finish even better with the right compound but just as I guess before even though the finish is better it still is quite hazed even compared to the section with precision with the blue HDI foam pad as more of a control section I decided to use shoul s 20 with the foam blue spider pad which is again another combination I use frequently which does have the ability to finish extremely well in many cases now the finish in this section was clearly better but interestingly it's really similar to the section with precision and the like country blue HDI pads maybe a touch better but still extremely close which was a little surprising the final section are decided to perform with the Ripper's blue wool pad was with concours finesse finishing polish I've actually used finesse quite a lot with the Lake Country purple foam wool pads as a one-step combination which really works well on many occasions once again I was actually pleasantly surprised at just how good the finish was but overall having a look at all the sections together it was fairly clear that the best finishes was still achieved with both the Lake Country and shell concepts foam pads which really reinforced the fact that the pad to a greater extent rather than the compound or polish is what's really going to determine the greatest finish here in any case I hope these testing phases we're interesting to see and follow and did provide you guys with some useful information [Music] now as I mentioned before during the compounding testing phases this paint is quite soft and sensitive so a lighter approach is going to be needed to adjust the haze during the compounding stage and get that perfect finish I'm going to be testing for polishes and pad combinations here and once I'm done we'll have a look at the results and I'll be choosing the best finished combination to proceed with and then discussing which compound combination I'll be using for the first stage and why [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] now show concepts on the blue spider pad would actually be my combination if I was doing a one step correction on this paint as the defect removal would be as good as 80 to 95 percent with just a single set of passes and although not perfect the finish would still be acceptable the truth is that all the other three sections with Jessica finishing polish shell concepts s 30 plus and concours finesse they're all extremely good but in this particular case I can see a slight edge in the finish we show concepts s 30 plus and the shine mate red foam pad with that section displaying a touch more saturation in the paint so it will be my choice for the second and final stage of paint correction now my choice moving forward with the primary cutting stage is actually going to be concours precision on the Lake Country blue HCO foam pads as both the cut and finish is exceptional in a perfect combination for this paint type and the existing defects however I'm actually going to use the last cut with the Lake Country microfiber pads just on the bonnet here to try and display why a more aggressive combination on a softer paint like this isn't the best choice so we just wanted to display firsthand that although microfiber in general is a more efficient material to compound with it can be a less efficient material to use especially on softer paint types now for the actual compounding or defect removal stage it works absolutely fine in that it will easily remove the existing defects quite quickly and as you can hopefully see it really only took a quick a single set of passes to achieve that but as you will also hopefully see the finish is extremely poor with light Holograms excessive haze and marring now the issue with this comes as I move on to my second stage and then start to realize that it's really taking as long if not longer to refine the finish then it was to remove the defects now for me personally finishing is almost exclusively a quicker process than cutting and when the finishing stage takes longer than the cutting stage it's really due to perhaps too much aggression in the primary cutting stage so in the end the second stage of refining the finish did take me almost twice as long as the first cutting stage for the simple fact that this more aggressive combination was a lot of work to refine on the next section of the roof the whole process of both cutting and finishing was twice as quick using precision in all due to the fact that it was a less aggressive combination in the primary cutting stage so more cutting and aggression isn't always a better or quicker approach I've discussed why I look for quality of finish in a compound and pad selection just as I look for cut and defect removal performance but this paint was a perfect example to bring this point up and again see the results firsthand so once again I hope it proved to be insightful the rest of the cast paint was corrected using this combination and overall I'll be honest in saying it was actually one of the more easy and speedy details I've done this year as the paint was really a pleasure to work with and I can tell by the condition of the car that the owner did take care of it which is always great to see [Music] for the glass which was actually in surprisingly great condition I use Concours morph basically to give it a deep clean and lay down some protection at the same time but besides that the glass really didn't need any more aggression beyond a light polish [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] perhaps one of the worst scratched up areas with a plastic water deflectors on the door glass now like many plastic and piano black trends they tend to be quite soft and do scratch up easily so from my experience a light polishing approach is best to correct these streams as if you're too aggressive you will end up causing excessive haze and marring that will cause you real headaches to rectify so using finesse polish with the Lake Country orange HCI foam pads and really just a single set of passes the finish was restored to an almost perfect condition [Music] the piano black plastic trims were restored using the same combination as well but it did take a second set of passes to remove the defects and a follow-up stage using finesse polish again but with the finer shine made red foam pads to achieve that perfect finish as these trims were a little softer than the clear plastic on the window water deflectors [Music] as I mentioned earlier things like calcium deposits around car badges and water spots aren't gonna come off during the wash or decontamination stage and do need to be addressed with more specific calcium and water spot removers the product I'm using is another prototype water spot and calcium remover that I've been testing for months now and really has proven to be the best one I've ever tried and it will hopefully also be out soon for sale and purchase the thing about these more prominent calcium deposits is that if you go and try to polish them out these deposits can attach themselves to your pad and cause quite a bit of scratches along the way so it really is best to first try and remove as much of them as possible before polishing the area [Music] [Music] [Music] for another test and demonstration I decided to split the rear passenger door into three sections to show a progression from the original and corrected paint to a compounded section and finally a finished polished section so that hopefully you can see more clearly on video the impact that each of these correction stages has on the paint and the overall transformation from the paint's current condition to the finished product [Music] with all the correction work completed the entire car was given a blow down with compressed air to remove any standing dust before the final alcohol-based wipe down to prepare the vehicle for the next protection stage [Music] [Applause] [Music] the paint protection of choice for this Ford Focus was Nova Evo glass coating never Evo is a coating available to the general public but as I've mentioned in past videos it really does perform and actually outperform many professional-grade coatings out on the market I have discussed its general application in my Lda 6 video if you do want a more in-depth look at it so I actually wanted to moreso discuss a couple of issues both Detailers and the public have been asking me about in relation to coatings in general I absolutely understand the most people contacting me want specific information like how long does it take this coating to flash how long should I wait before I wipe it and how long does it take to fully cure and so on and after I explain the coatings are extremely climbing and temperature sensitive I still do get responses like but just in general how long the truth is that I can't give anyone a time or specific information unless I'm there beside you while you're applying it what I have tried to do and explain particularly in the audi a6 video is how you can determine these things for yourself which quite honestly is the only way you can get the answers you're after I realize the coning manufacturers do place some of this information on their packaging or websites but I need to assure you that it's nothing more than a very basic guide I do remember the first time I applied a coating and trust me I was uncertain and frustrated myself but believe it or not they've actually got an easier to apply and will continue to become more user friendly with the added bonus of there being so much more information available today compared to when I started applying them so the real answers to these application and timing questions are revealed while you're applying it so for example if you're struggling to wipe off the coating you're most likely waiting too long before you wipe and if you're applying it and immediately wiping it off and still struggling to remove it start by working smaller sections if the coating is just smearing as you wipe give it a little more time to cure and maybe start doing two sections before you wipe as a working method I'm always happy to try and answer all the questions that come my way as I'm sure most subscribers to this channel will confirm so if there is anything else I wasn't able to address completely please leave a comment and I will answer it as best I can [Music] [Applause] [Music] I'll leave you with the final footage of this beautiful Ford Focus finally corrected and protected to perfection which I have to say did look truly amazing once it was pulled outside please give the video a thumbs up and subscribe to show your support for this channel thanks for watching and I'll see you in the next video [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music]

Channel: Car Craft Auto Detailing

Views: 214,527

Rating: 4.8227291 out of 5

Keywords: ford focus st rs, NOVA EVO GLASS COATING, best ceramic coating, best car polish, best car wax, best car soap, RUPES BLUE WOOL PADS, CONCOURS PRECISION, SHINE MATE MINI POLISHER, FIBRE MICROFIBRE PADS, ANGELWAX RESURRESCTION, BUFF AND SHINE PADS, LAKE COUNTRY BLUE HDO PADS, FOAM LANCE, SNOW PLUS FOAM, WHEEL WOOLIE LARGE, KRANZLE PRESSURE WASHER, PURGE WHEEL CLEANER, professional detailing, best interior clean, THE LAST CUT, SCHOLL CONCEPTS, how to polish car paint

Id: f0BObCmi1l0

Length: 51min 51sec (3111 seconds)

Published: Tue Apr 24 2018