The Insane Detail - Finally Detailing My Own Car - Alfa Romeo Brera (Vlog 11)

hey guys I'm finally back with a full-length step-by-step video this time and for the first time detail in my own car which is a 2007 Alfa Romeo Brera now just like a lot of these full-length videos I've been doing this one will be largely based on product and technique testing particularly with some new compounds that are still in their prototype stage but if you think you've seen me doing a lot of testing on other people's cars I can tell you right now that you haven't seen anything yet compared to the amount of testing that took place on my own car it's actually been well over 6 years since I gave my Brera a full comprehensive detail like the one you're about to see though I have done a couple of minor paint enhancements usually every couple of years or so before applying a nano coating I'll also let you know that for the first time since I bought the car she did have some paintwork done a couple of months ago to address the bonnet that was suffering from crow's feet fractures due to primer coat shrinkage and I also decided to have the rear quarter panels repainted as they were completely covered with stone chips beyond one touch-up paint could address I also had a whopping 5 dents removed which I'll add that I had absolutely no idea how any of them occurred and to top it all off my car was washed a few times without my knowledge or consent and even after I specifically requested that I didn't want a free detail from the body shop they still rotary buffed all the panels of my car including the ones they didn't even repaint the truth is that I've calmed down a lot about getting upset about things like dents and scratches miraculously appearing on my paintwork or even someone washing my car when they've been asked not to maybe it's just a sign of getting older but what's done is done and fuming over it doesn't solve a thing in the end I love this car but it's my daily driver and I accept that I can't always control what other people do and I'm not going to be afraid to drive it or use it as that would defeat the whole purpose truly enjoying it as you can actually see the car is in need of quite a thorough wash in the contamination stage and as I've mentioned in the past it doesn't fortunately live outside in the harsh Australian elements now although I'm still gonna give the wheels and rims a proper decon wash I actually coated them about six months ago and also repainted and coated the brake calipers I'm not sure if you can clearly see in the footage but the coating is still going strong so I'm not going to remove it but rather top it up with another coating which I'll explain and demonstrate a little later after the cast paint has been corrected [Music] I've discussed the importance of this wash and decontamination stages as well as the products I'm using many many times in my past videos which are all extremely vital steps for so many reasons and should never be overlooked or skipped as it can cause countless issues and headaches down the track as you progress to the paint correction and protection stages but just briefly the car was given a pre-soak foam is in concours snow plus a very thorough pressure in stem and a hand wash also using snow plus with yet another pressure rinse down this was followed by laying the entire vehicle including the paint glass and trims with the claim it is in purified which is both a clay lubricant and an iron and tar remover all-in-one the car was then given a quick drive with a microfiber towel and the remaining water was blown out with compressed air to ensure the vehicle was completely dry before moving it into the paint correction bay [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] the final decontamination step as always is an alcohol-based wipe down which is an extremely vital step to ensure that any remaining residue from the wash products and chemicals is removed so it won't cause any issues and inconsistencies during the compounding and polishing paint correction stages in the end this whole process is based around getting the paint as clean and bare as possible but also without using overly strong solvents that can and do alter the surface tension of the paint's causing further issues and headaches that can be avoided make your life harder and limit the results you can achieve the next step was to measure the paint's thickness to gain a general estimate of how much clear coat there was to work with with an average rating of about 275 to 300 microns on the repainted bonnet it's really about twice as much as you'd expect on a new car which is great to see I also know that the bonnet was taken back to bare metal so it is a true reading however the quarter panels and pillar ages that were also repainted weren't actually taken back to bare metal so in other words at least in part the reading on those sections isn't a true thickness of the new paint as it's also reading to some extent the original paint underneath I bring this up for the fact that it's always important to investigate the paint as it can help you gain a better understanding of what you're really dealing with and avoid the costly mistakes the unpainted original panels are closer to about a hundred to 125 microns which is still fairly decent for an 11-year old car so let the testing begin as I mentioned earlier and also in the past these longer YouTube videos that I do at my typical detailing job where I'm just trying to find the right car nation welcome from the least aggressive method up I chose to focus on these testing details more so for these videos as they provide a lot more information and insights that I hope you guys appreciate and are interested in but having said that I will try to do some more standard detailing job videos in the future that will honestly be a lot quicker to shoot and edit and also a lot shorter in length for those of you that do find these videos a bit too long or daunting to sit through to start with I'm using the reverse male polish up for this first testing phase starting with one of my most used combinations of Concours precision compounds on the lake country blue HDI foam pad after completing a set of passes in this first section I can see an increase of haze and compounding marring though the panel shop did do a pretty good job of creating quite a lot of haze and marring in the finish to start with now my first thought is that for this favorite combination of mine to finish quite poorly it must be quite a soft and sensitive paint but at the same time I can still see many deeper scratches that haven't been removed though overall many of the lighter swirls seem to have been eliminated now as a direct comparison I'm using a new prototype compounds which are called prototype a that I've been testing lately and using it here with the Ripper's yellow wall pad this compound is really different to any I've come across in the past but as you'll see as I progress it's really worth investigating and testing further as it could potentially be quite an important product for meaning Detailers to have now the footage isn't as clear as I'd like it to be or as clear as I expected it to be seeing that the paint is a flat or nonmetallic black that usually shows up any imperfections quite easily but I'll do my best to explain the results I was seeing in person the finish with this second combination was actually amazingly good especially when considering the potential softness of the paint which I wouldn't expect any warp pad to finish so well but with the haze and micro marring gone I can see far more clearly what appears to be deeper sanding scattered about the finish I decided to do a second pass to see if I could remove or at least reduce those deeper sanding marks appearance with the same combination as the finish is coming up great and it would be ideal if this combo could work as a single stage now the second set of passes did ever so slightly reduce those deeper scratches but in reality not to an acceptable level so really a more aggressive approach was going to be needed still working with the same prototype a compound on this same section I stepped up to the rippers coarse blue wool pad now although the cut or defect removal was a step up the pad was leaving quite a bit of its own marring behind which really did make it a little more difficult to tell what were the defects created from the compounding marring and what the existing sanding scratches in the finish were so I followed up with the yellow warp pad once again to clean up the haze of marring so I could more clearly assess the results now unfortunately the more are compounded this section the more realized that those sanding marks are really quite deep and they are gonna be quite difficult to remove now the next test was based around seeing if I could get the same finish or even better using a foam pad in the form of the yellow rivers polishing pad now overall the yellow foam pad does tend to finish better on almost all paint types however in this case the finish was a definite step down with quite a lot of micro marring in haze that really wasn't the case with the yellow wool pad so why is this happening maybe the paint doesn't like foam pads or maybe this compound doesn't work well with foam or maybe both in even more reasons the truth is that as Detailers we don't always know why certain combinations don't work well and others do even when it goes against what we would consider to be the norm the fact is that sometimes especially when dealing with finicky paints such as this one you need to think outside of the box and really take a detour from your normal approach as only then will you give yourself the opportunity the stung across the right combination with the right technique for the next section I used Polish angel master compound on the same rubezh yellow foam pad now the cut or defect removal wasn't exactly great and the finish was by far the worst one yet again this isn't what I'd normally expect from master compound or the reverse yellow foam pad but if nothing else it was plain to see at this stage that this was going to be quite a problematic paint to work with that would require a lateral thinking approach the next test was with another prototype compound which I'll call prototype B it's a little different to prototype a in that it's a more heavy cutting compound whereas prototype a is more of a mid to like cutting compound used on the repairs yellow wool pad the cut was actually the best one so far and the finish although not exactly great was still quite reasonable and much better than the previous section so at this stage it is feeling like the paint really likes a yellow wool pad at least from a finishing perspective more so than the foam for a third test compound if you guys can take any more I tested a new all-in-one sio2 based polish which I'll call prototype C that probably has more cut than any all-in-one compound I've tried in the past the defect removal was actually quite decent as was its filling ability and finish but still those deeper sanding scratches was still quite evident as was the micro marring that I just couldn't eliminate in the finish though I'll add that on some paints I've tested it on the results have actually been quite good and it really could be a winning all-in-one polish that can also be used as a base primer for certain nano or glass coatings I did go on to further test all these compounds using more variations with pads as well as adapting my techniques using more and less product changing my machines bathes pressure and work times but in the end the only real success I had at least with finishing to a great level of clarity was still with the rippers yellow wool pad with the first prototype a compound at least in this first testing phase now product testing is actually something that has become a large part of what I now do and although I share some of these prototype products with you guys the truth is that I don't show you 90% of the products that I test simply because there's just nothing new or different about them there's just no point in creating more of the same products that already exist and just slapping a new label on them there needs to be a point of difference that addresses a need in the marketplace at least for me to get excited about a new detail and product the ones that I share with you guys are the ones that do excite me and that do have something new to offer the prototype a compound is really like nothing I've used in the past and as you'll see feather on it just has an amazing ability to allow more aggressive pads to finish down to a new level of clarity that I haven't experienced yet and it also works with wall pads about as good as any compound I've ever tested on a side note I also want to express my gratitude to repairs for creating the new refine more pads then I'm honestly just in love with and I really believe they could be the way forward for so many pain Corrections situations now just before I decided to call it a day there was one final combination that I wanted to try which was polish angel master final polish on the lake country black HD a foam pads and I also used the Rubies a free-spinning LH r15 mark 2 polisher in many cases this has been my go-to finishing combination on soft and sensitive paint types when all else fails in simple terms it's an extremely fine polish match to an extremely fine pad being quite a non-aggressive combination to say the least unfortunately yet again the finish was littered with my grammar antics in circular patterns all over the section and although wasn't the worst finish it was by no means the best but honestly I wasn't surprised as so far or the normal approaches just haven't worked on this pain so up to a full day of testing just on the bottom it was time to get the car ready for the correction process now in a perfect world where time and money aren't all that important the truth is that removing Carens such as lights badges skirts wipers and so on does allow for greater and more precise paint correction abilities and outcomes but the other truth is that it's a very time-consuming and costly process that can also cause a lot of additional headaches when certain trims are difficult to remove all we're still difficult to reinstall now being that this is my own car and I'm not in a rush or charging anyone for this detail I can take my time to do things as I like and being that I've previously removed most of the trims in the past I already know how they come apart and how they go back but at the same time if I was to calculate how much time it took me to both remove and replace all the trends it was a full day's work just on its own certain trims like the side mirrors and the front lights were a nightmare to remove in the past so I decided not to cause myself more grief than necessary and leave them on [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] next was taping up the trims though as many were already removed it became a much easier process but as you'll see once I actually get to correct in the paint I will be masking almost all of the opposing panels to the ones I'm working on so this really is more of a general or primary masking stage and as I progress from panel to panel there will be more section by section masking along the way [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so back to the bonnet for yet another testing phase this time using another favorite combination of mine which is shawl concepts s20 black on the shoal blue spider pad once again no big surprise that on this paint type it just didn't finish well at all and thus any marks were barely addressed or reduced as a direct comparison I wanted to try once again the winning combination so far of prototype a compound on the yellow wool pad the worst thing that can happen especially when you're having a tough time with a certain pain is that the combination that you thought was going to work all of a sudden stops working well so it was a relief to see that time and time again this combination is just finishing great and well beyond anything else I've tried so far now the deeper sanding scratches are going to need a more aggressive approach to address them but at least I have a great finishing combination that is also still capable of some moderate defect removal [Music] next was trying the same combination on the original pain as a really would be ideal to use the same combination and not have to find a new one now although there was still a few deeper scratches and I could see some very mild highs in the finish this combination was still working quite well on the Alfa's original factory pains for a second test with the same combination on the same front fender I just changed polishes to the rippers lhr 15 mark - to see if there would be any difference better or worse compared to the rippers Miller overall it was just too close to call with very similar levels of cut and finish with both machines [Music] the next test on the factory paint was with the light country black finishing microfiber pad with prototype a compound now honestly once again it was extremely close to the yellow wool pad especially in the cutting department but I could still see a slightly better finish in the previous section with the yellow wool pad for a final test section in the second testing phase I decided to do a side by side area on the door using prototype a compound with the yellow wool pad followed by the blue wool pad and then lastly with the Black Lake Country finishing microfiber pad this was done to get a better and clearer view and understanding of how each of these pads work with both the compound and the original factory paint in relation to cut and defect removal it really was a rivers course wall pad this seemed to edge just ahead in front of the black microfiber pad followed by the yellow wool pad but in relation to finish it was a yellow wool pad that finished best followed by the blue wool pad and lastly the black microfiber pad which did display the greatest amount of haze and marring one thing I'll add is that the original paint is quite soft and overall I've never used wool or microfiber to correct it as it just wasn't necessary and it always created crazy amounts of haze and Marie but this compound has just got an amazing ability to allow more aggressive wall and microfiber pads to finish so much better in the next step I wanted to address about half a dozen stone chips onyx scattered about the car I used the wax pen to firstly mark them all and then began by giving each chip a light sanding with some 2,000 grit sandpaper each chip was then given a thorough wipe down with some wax and grease remover before adding the color match the touch-up paint with a fine tip paint brush the idea is to dab the paint on and let it fall and fill the chip rather than brushing it on and as paint contains a lot of thinners or carrier solvents you need to build it up a little higher with the paint as the thinners will evaporate causing the paint to sink back into the chipped area if the paint still goes down a little too much once it dries as you need it to be slightly higher than the surface just add some more touch-up and build it back up you really need to give it a good couple of days to properly set before we sanding and polishing it or it simply will come off when you try to refine it I do have infrared lights which are used to speed up that process but it still needed to set for at least 24 hours I'll be refining the touch-up paint areas as I work from panel to panel given the paint as much time as possible to set which you'll see a little later on I'll also add that this whole card detail was done as a start/stop process over the course of a few weeks as I was also busy doing some other jobs so some of the footage isn't in chronological order as I did try to edit in a more seamless start to finish flowing manner [Music] on to phase three of testing seeing that the bonnet in particular was really responding well to wool pads I wanted to test some more with the rippers cause wool pads to step up the aggression and defect removal over the yellow wool pads the first test was with concours precision now although I could definitely see a more obvious step in the right direction starting to address those deeper sanding scratches the finish was nothing like precision usually is but again it wasn't surprising on this paint type as a direct comparison I tried SH all concepts s xx to see if the pad could increase his cut but still finish to a better level now the finish was a step up on precision but in all honesty it wasn't cutting anywhere near as well and although the finish was better it wasn't exactly great for a third direct comparison I once again use prototype a compound with the same blue wool pad now the consistency of its finish was just fantastic whereas the other two compounds were leaving at least slightly inconsistent finishes which tends to be more of a problem on softer or less finicky paints the truth is that if the spray paint is hadn't left deep core sanding marks in the finish this compound with just the yellow wool pad would have been a great one-step process but with the reality at hand I'm going to really need something far more aggressive to release reduce those same marks to an acceptable level the fourth test was revisiting prototype B compound with a blue wool pad now it's plain to see that this compound does cut well but the finish is so marred on this paint type that I just can't see the sanding marks anymore as they really get lost in the finish so in reality I'd need to cut and then finish just to be able to see if the sanding marks have been removed which honestly isn't really ideal ultimately I need something that can cut as well as this compound but still finish at least relatively well so that I can assess my results more clearly now I've used this compound before and the finish was nowhere near as bad it's really just this particular paint that is just so picky and choosey in what it likes the next section was done with copper a clear cut on the same wool pad now apart from prototype a compound click cut was the best so far at reducing the defects and its finish was a slight step up on prototype babe allow me to better assess the finish now the truth is that I don't expect any aggressive compound to finish well on this pain nor the course wall pads but being able to find a combination with increased defect removal yet still have a reasonable finish is the goal as it will allow the second refining stage to be far quicker and easier the final tests in this section area was with the last cut compounding glaze which to be honest I was really hoping for that magical cut and finish balance as you'll hopefully be able to see shortly it really was the winner here now I'm not saying a work like magic because the finish was still hazed and the sanding marks was still present but out of all six sections it really did prove to have just about the best cutting ability and quite a reasonable finish considering the paint type I was working on [Music] [Music] [Music] to get this whole section back to a level clear finish I gave it a quick polish with my finishing combination of prototype a compound on the yellow wall pad it was then time to see what it's really gonna take to remove these sanding marks with the last cut on the blue wool pad then a direct comparison switching to the Lake Country fiber cutting pads to see if microfiber would be better or a more efficient approach in the end the microfiber cutting pad was the slightly quicker option but to truly remove the sanding marks entirely there will be no getting around that the bonnet would need to be resounded at least with 1500 grit sandpaper now when I say that the sanding marks are deep I'm not talking about three thousand two thousand or even 1500 grit sanding marks the paint has really been knocked back with something more like 600 to 800 grit that hasn't been well refined and although another course of action could be using a rotary it's still going to be quite a time-consuming process and the even bigger issue is that in all honesty I really don't want to remove that much clear the truth is that in a couple of years I'll be correcting the paint again and probably again another two years after that as I really have no intention of selling this car and nor do I want to repaint it again in the future I've talked about my personal philosophy about preserving my car's clear coat in the past so although I'm still going to reduce those sani marks not going to remove them completely as a really would mean removing quite a lot of clear coat in the process maybe I'll address them further in a couple of years or a couple of years after that and because I'm preserving the existing clear coat I'll always have that option in the future I also need to face the fact that it is a daily driver and not a garage Queen that will most likely have new dents chips and scratches to also address in the future on to number four and the final testing phase for those of you that are keen enough for tip is still watching so with the repainted bonnet sorted out using the last cut on the fiber cutting microfiber pads for the first stage and prototype a compound on the yellow wool pads for the second stage it was time to finalize the original factory paint now since there was no sani marks on those panels and the paint is on the softer side I wanted to see if the last card on the Ripper's blue wall pads will be the best way forward for the cutting stage now overall just a single pass seemed to remove almost all the defects which in those sections are really just light to moderate swirls I then used prototype a compounds on the yellow wall pads to refine the finish and see if this two-stage process and combination would work well together now overall I was happy with both the cut and the finish but compared to the bonnet there was still a touch of haze in the finish and reduce clarity so going back to a more standard approach and switching to a finer foam pad I decided to a side-by-side test with the yellow wool pad compared to the reverse yellow foam pads on the factory paint as you can hopefully see the foam pad did finish better here with reduced haze and increased gloss so just to make sure that nothing has changed and that the yellow wool pad really is finishing better on the repainted bonnet I did another quick section pass with a foam pad once again I wish the picture was a little clearer but using the same compound same polisher and technique with the only real difference being the pad the repainted bonnet really doesn't seem to like any foam pads I've tried at all as it continues to haze up and Mar while the original paint does prefer a softer foam pad of softer wall pad for finishing so keep it in line with the factory paint preferring foam to finish I decided to step down to an even finer foam pad in the form of the lake country black H do pad once again the clarity of finish was a step up and the paint really started to intensify and become a rich black atone a final test was with master final polish on the same pad that actually turned out to be the winning combination and as I've stated before this combination is one that I use frequently on softer paint types with great success now as far as the formal testing of these compounds and pads is concerned that was pretty much it though as you'll see during the actual paint correction process I did continue to mix it up a bit switching from the rivers Mille polisher to the LH r15 mark - as well as the mini show mate and trying a few other combinations on the fly to see if I could get them to cut and finish to the same level or even better in the end this whole paint correction process of my own car was based around learning more about my trade as a detailer testing products that have the potential to help and better both myself and others in this industry or at least those that have the passion willingness and drive to grow and progress the goths roof front wind screens as well as the side and door glass were all given a Polish with various microfiber pads using the last cut compound which was all really based around giving them a deep clean in preparation for coding now most of the rest of the paint correction footage is fairly self-explanatory as I switched from my large to my mini and macro polishes and I also tried to do quite a few 5050 shots to give you guys a better idea of what the paint was like to start with and what the finish was like in the end a question that seems to be coming up a lot for me is whether the merely cuts more than the al-hajj are fifteen or twenty one mark two polishes the truth is that it really depends on the flatter larger surface the larger throat DA's still tend to cut a touch faster in particular with microfiber pads but around the curves and edges there's just no denying that the mill a is a real beast on a more personal note the more I use the Millay the more it's reignited my love for forced rotation da's it's just so nice to use and I still can't get over just how smooth it really is the other thing that I know at least a few of you guys will be wanting to know is when these prototype compounds will be out the truth is that it takes a lot of time for any product to go from a test product to being available on a shelf at least for the good ones that do go through a ton of testing and tweaks before they are released they actually are a couple of past prototype products that I've shown in my videos that are actually almost due for release and I'll do my best to let you guys know when that actually happens you'll also see that I gave the new white rubezh microfiber pads ago but honestly I'm still not all that sure about them as a list on my car during this detail the cut wasn't quite as good as the lake country ones and the finish was also a step down but it really was my first time trying them so I will need a little more time with them before passing judgment I'm sure most of you must be sick of the sound of my voice by now so I'll keep quiet for the rest of the correction stage and I'll pick it up again once we get the coding in the protection stage [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] with the correction stage completed and the entire car wiped down with clarity ready for coding I firstly decided to coat the rims while the car was still up on the hoist as I mentioned earlier the seek Ward's deluxe coating I previously applied was still going strong so rather than removing it I decided to top it up with concours pyro wheel coding the great benefit of pyro is that apart from how super easy it is to apply it also works extremely well over existing coatings now if you want to get the very best durability out of pyro it will last longer we need to apply to bare rims that have been correctly prepared but even when used over itself or another coating it was still lasts quite a while Perot really is a wipe on or spray-on nano coating with no flash time needed so you can really just immediately wipe it off but at the same time you can still give it a few minutes if you want to do a couple of rooms at a time and it's still just such a breeze to wipe off the added richness gave the rims looked absolutely fantastic just taken them to the next level to get a perfect application of the tide dressing I also applied it while the wheels were still elevated using Zaino Zed 16 tide dressing which is still an absolute favorite of mine it really just applies so well and evenly getting into all the rubbers intricate areas and it's also self leveling and drying with such a deep rich satin finish that I absolutely love [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] now I know that the lighting is a little dark in the coding room especially for my camera but the truth is that's exactly how it should be to be able to see the high spots while you're applying a nano or glass coating this room has been specifically set up for coatings with diffused and bouncing light off the white walls but I'll hopefully talk more about that in a future video as well as do an introduction to the facility once it's all completed and setup which should hopefully be in a month or so my coating of choice as most of you that follow this channel may have guessed was never pro why because it's an absolutely insane coating that has really set the bar in my opinion and it just continues to impress me every time I apply it now I've gone through nerve appraiser application in a couple of videos including my full detail videos on the Audi s3 and the master six already so I'll keep it a little more brief here in general Nova pro is a layer ball fairly quick flashing coating but seeing that it was winter here in Melbourne and quite a cold day the flash time was about five minutes before wiping it down but in general usually a couple of minutes is closer to its wipe off time and in even hotter weather conditions a minute or so will do now keeping in mind that this was a testing based detail on my own car I did play around with the wipe off times as well as working larger in smaller sections to see what more I could learn about this coating or really nanocoatings in general overall the truth is that even when I push this coating to its limits of flash times and work bigger sections are still able to adapt my technique enough to address these situations meaning that at least to a point there is a flexibility in its application now at the same time if you're not overly familiar or experienced with coatings I do suggest that you always stick to the manufacturers recommendations I have a look at my past videos where I go through quite a few different coatings and they're more specific applications [Music] I also decided to cut the front windscreen with Nova Pro which I don't normally do as a windscreen wipers do tend to diminish coatings in that area but again I'm interested to see how Nova pro in particular holds up in this area especially seeing that it is winter right now [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] actually only did apply one layup as I know it will still easily last well over two to three years which again is my personal preference as I prefer to detail my own cars every couple of years or so but two layers of probe should really comfortably see it lasts up to five years in most cases as amazing as a paint looked after the correction stage the coating really did take it to the next level giving it a real glass like mirror finish and adding even more saturation to the dark rich black finish this video was actually shot almost a month ago and the truth is that it's the reason why I haven't been uploading as many videos because it really was such a long and time-consuming process to complete I realized that these longer videos really aren't everyone's cup of tea but I really hope that all the hard work and time that went into making this video does make it worthwhile and appreciate it I'll hopefully have a first wash update video coming up soon and I also know that quite a few of you guys have been asking me to do another full interior video so I'll hopefully have one also on my alpha coming up soon ish I'll leave you with the final shots of my pride and joy and I thank you guys that were able to watch this video in its entirety as always thanks so much for watching please like comment and subscribe to this channel to show your support for these videos and I'll see you guys soon [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music]

Channel: Car Craft Auto Detailing

Views: 253,244

Keywords: Alfa Romeo, alfa brera, rupes, carpro, detailing, professional detailing, best ceramic coating, best car wax, best car polish, auto finesse, flex, best car soap, how to detail a car, best detailer, high end detailing

Id: tTicuScXWFo

Length: 63min 46sec (3826 seconds)

Published: Sun Aug 12 2018