RENAULT CLIO RS - Full Step By Step Detail On Hard White Paint (Vlog 10)

[Music] hey guys separate you from car craft order detailed in Melbourne today's video is a complete start to finish detail on this white 2015 Renault Clio RS now just like most of the recent videos I've been doing this detail isn't solely based on restoring this car back to its former glory but it's also largely focused on testing detailing products and techniques where I'm trying to share these experiences and findings with you guys in the hope that these videos will be a good source of information for the detailing community and also provide myself with some useful information that can continuously help me improve in my profession and passion which is automotive detailing and although these product and technique testing details do take a bit more time to complete the real-world information they've been providing me over the last few years has really proven to be an invaluable source of information that is well worth the extra time cost and effort needed now this three year old Clio RS has been recently purchased by its owner and as you'll see more clearly once the car is decontaminated and inspected on the lights the pain is quite bad to say the least and you may have guessed by the title of this video that this little French car has extremely hard paint which together with the quite severe defects is going to make for quite are let's say interesting detail but I'll get more into that once we get to polishing in the correction stage [Music] so as always the wheels are the first area to be addressed this is primarily done because I don't want any standing water sitting on the car while I clean the wheels so if I start with the rims then I don't need to worry about water spots being generated on the paint as the water dries while I'm cleaning the wheels all also add that these rims are severely scratched up and also badly touched up with paint but as the owner has already decided to replace the rims I'll just be giving them a nice deep clean and not worrying about correcting or protecting them so as per my usual technique purger wheel cleaner was applied to the rims given a couple of minutes to start breaking down the brake dust and road grime and then pressure rinse down next the ties and wheel wells were treated with the prototype will cleaner product I've been testing lately and you may have seen in a couple of my past videos I'll also add that this is another product that is hopefully getting closer to being released as it just seems to work so well but I'll let you guys know when that actually happens then as you can see in the footage and text a variety of tyre and rim cleaning brushes and myths we used to give the wheels a much needed deep and thorough clean I'll also add that I've covered this wheel cleaning process in much greater depth in a few of my past videos also discussing purge and the prototype will entire cleaners in greater lengths if you do wish to get some more information about these products and techniques [Music] [Music] now as you would have seen in the opening footage and inspection of the vehicle this car is quite dirty and in need of a thorough tape clean to remove the accumulation of dirt mud and road grime before we get to the next decontamination stage snow + intensive Car Wash detergent was used at a 1 to 10 dilution ratio in my foam lance to give the vehicle a pre soaked foam in order to soften the grime and begin breaking down the first layer of dirt after about five minutes of allowing snow + to dwell this was followed up by an extremely thorough top to bottom pressure rinse down of the entire vehicle ensuring that every square inch of the car was treated with the high pressure water beam to remove as much of the Lucid dirt and grime as possible before the next hand wash stage it's important to understand that the more dirt you remove in this touchless pre hand wash stage the far safer and less likely you are to scratch the paint in the next hand wash stage [Music] [Applause] [Music] so on to the hand wash stage snow plus was used in the wash bucket at a one to two hundred ratio or fifty meals to ten liters of water then following a basic to buckle wash method the entire car was given a top to bottom hand wash using the cloudburst microfiber mitt ensuring to rinse the met thoroughly after each panel in the second rinse bucket before moving on to the next panel I just want to add that regardless of how bad the dirt or grime is it's best to always use only light pressure with straight back and forth motions if the paint requires it just rinse your mid out and go over it a second or third time rather than using more aggressive pressure to try and get it off in one go which will greatly increase the likelihood of you further scratching the paint [Music] another pressure winds down and it was time for the chemical and mechanical decontamination stages many of you guys may know that I have adopted using purify to remove the more stubborn environmental fallout and bonded particles now in the past I would have started by using an iron and tie removal chemicals and then move on to using a clay bar or met with additional clay lubricants to both address the chemical and mechanical decontamination stages the benefit of purify is that it combines your iron and traffic film removers as well as your clay lubricant all into one product and procedure so it's far more cost effective far quicker and just as capable I'll also add that a few of you guys have asked me about this claiming I've been using which has actually been released as the wax of clay men and as I've stated in past videos it's perhaps the safest yet extremely effective climate I've ever used now the truth is that when you look at this mint compared to others the surface looks almost identical just as when you compare most traditional clay bars that will seem to look and feel the same but as I'm sure most of you guys will know there's a lot of difference between the cheap and nasty clay bars found on ebay compared to the more expensive ones from reputable brands and in my experience the same goes for claimants towels or phonebloks so although they may look the same the results they achieve and the levels of scratches and marring they produce can actually vary quite a lot once all the paint and glass was treated with purify and the claimant or the panels and trims were pressure rinse down and the car was then blown dry with the use of warm compressed air in the form of a metro vac plaster now apart from removing the more obvious standing water it's important to ensure that all the remaining trapped water in the finest seams and crevices is entirely blown out and removed as even a few drops of remaining water will cause issues when you're trying to mask your rubber and plastic trims plus it's also a way of removing any trap or standing wash or decontamination product residue that can certainly get trapped in CERN finer areas a final IPA wipe down of the entire vehicle was then performed in preparation for the paint correction stage this is really another vital step to ensure that any remaining residue left on the paint the will cause issues in the correction stage is removed with an alcohol-based cleaner that leaves no residue of its own behind now I'm going to start by saying that the footage or what the camera was able to capture really didn't do justice to display just how bad this paint really was and the disturbing thing about it is that the car is only just over two years old with very low kilometers now at the fact that you'll see quite shortly this paint is truly rock-hard so it brings up the question as to what was done to inflict such damage on such a hard and scratch resistant paint in such a short period the consistent swirl like marks that are covering the entire paint really aren't your typical rounded spider web pattern swirls but are definitely much deeper with more straight-line scratches that are positioned in a circular pattern which in my experience is the kind of defect that's produced by car wash brushes both manual and handheld and the automatic drive throughs but still I have to say that some areas look like the paint and glass was scrubbed with a scotch brite scourer now being white paint these defects just don't visually jump out as they would in darker paints but I guarantee you that if this car was black it would look like a right mess and no dealership would be able to get away from selling a car with this shockingly bad paint on any color other than white looking at the gloss or finish of the paint which is actually much better than it should be as these types of defects with this white paint should look a lot more dull and muted than it is I can clearly see that this paint has been recently polished with quite an aggressive method as this rotary induced hologram all over the car and a lack of environmental fallout on the paint together with the level of gloss in the finish which all suggest that someone has made an attempt quite recently to correct this paint however although the Gloucester Sun the gray was restored to the finish the defects have not been addressed whatsoever and with the wax or sealant filling agent that was used to try and hide the severe defects now removed the paint is looking so much worse in its true and bare state masking tape was then used to cover the rubber and plastic trims to both protect those trends and the polishes from picking up unwanted residue [Music] a few dozen paint readings were then taken to measure the overall thickness of the paint which was actually quite good averaging about a hundred and fifty microns or six mils and also reasonably consistent throughout the entire car which suggests that the paint is all original however with a variance of about 50 microns or two Mills from the lowest rating to the highest reading it does also suggest that some areas of this car have been previously aggressively corrected in some form or another [Music] so on to the paint correction testing phase to start with my first combination was concours precision compound on the Lake Country blue HDI foam pad using the shine mate ax 605 dual action polisher now if this paint wasn't as bad as it is I would have started with a less aggressive compound and pad selection but as the paint is pretty shocking and what I did initially guess would be a harder paint then this combination based on my experience is a good start to help me decipher what it's going to take to restore it apart from assessing the actual results it's important to use your test sections as a means of determining what the pain is like even though a certain combination may not be the best it should still give you valuable information of what you're dealing with and how to proceed forward so firstly looking at the finish I can see that it's been improved in the way of gloss depth and clarity and the fact that I'm using a cutting compound and cutting pad gets still able to improve the finish without any haze or micro marring tells me that this is to some degree a harder and scratch resistant paint this is going to be fairly easy going in relation to finishing down flawlessly secondly looking at the defect removal I was able to achieve it's actually almost as if nothing has happened the defects are really unchanged with perhaps a 10% improvement at best but really nothing significant enough to suggest that this combination is going to be able to correct this paint now taking these two factors of how the finish is improved but the defects are almost unchanged with a relatively aggressive compound and pad selection it's quite safe to say that this paint is extremely hard and a more aggressive approach is required the second Test section was with show concepts s regaled using the same like country pad now this isn't what I'd normally use after seeing the results from the first section but as a few of you guys have been asking me to show this compound in my videos I decided to use it in the next section it's three gold is a compound I've actually used quite a lot and it is without a doubt in my opinion one of the best compounds on the market the truth is that before I tried precision esri gold was my precision all go-to compound with foam pads I don't even give it a slight edge in its user friendliness over precision but the truth is that although they are both fantastic compounds I just seem to personally achieve a touch more cut and slightly better finish with precision over s3 gold on most occasions having a look at the results on this paint they really are just so similar to the previous section in the cut and finish both of these compounds have been able to achieve the next section was with the last cut compounding glaze using the Lake Country fiber cutting pad now based on the previous sections this combination is a good progression which is more based on the microfiber cutting pad which should prove to be more capable at dealing with these defects on this harder paint now one thing I did want to add about the last cut compounding glaze is that there's no doubt that it cuts extremely well but it's really not so much about it being an overly aggressive compound as it is about it being a masterpiece of a compound with microfiber pads in reality there are more aggressive compounds out there but when you use most of them with microfiber they just don't work anywhere near as well you need to appreciate that a test section isn't always going to translate into the results that compounding a whole car will revealed and the reason that I just love this compound so much is that it works consistently from start to finish throughout the whole car whereas many other compounds might show great result in your test section but as he continued to correct the paint you'll find that the microfiber pads start to become overly hot begin to dust clogged up quickly and rapidly diminish their ability to both cut and finish as they were in your test section now looking at the results I can see a noticeable difference in both the cut and finish of this section however although it is hard to clearly see the results on camera the defect removal is still far from satisfactory with perhaps a twenty to twenty-five percent improvement which is much better than the previous sections but still far from gray now the lightest wells have actually been mostly removed but it also reveals more clearly the deeper consistent scratches beneath they look like they're gonna be seriously difficult to eliminate another compound that works extremely well with microfiber pads and is actually the first compound I had great success with on these pads was polish angels muster compound this is in my experience the most user-friendly compound out on the market that truly doesn't dust provides the easiest wipe off and the longest polishing cycle of any compounds I've ever used now it does come at a premium as it's also one of the most expensive compounds on the market and honestly before I tried the last cut this was my go-to microfiber compound looking at the results in the last two sections they are both extremely similar with almost identical levels of card and quality of finish but I do see a slightly increased level of defect removal with the last car whereas the finish not perfect is equally good with both compounds the last combination in this testing phase was with car pro clear cut starting with a light country blue HDI foam pad one thing with clear cut that should help you get the most out of this compound is to use a little more product than you normally apply as in my experience it does help increase this compounds cutting ability which overall is quite impressive and another of my absolute favorite compounds technique also plays a large part in achieving clearcuts fantastic results its abrasives tend to diminish quite quickly so you find that you actually get more cut with this compound if you start on a slower machine speed with just light pressure and then increase both your pressure and machine speed to achieve the best possible finish now assessing the results it was plain to see that this combination was a step down to the previous sections in relation to defect removal and it's really more about the pad selection rather than the compound that's creating the most difficult as a direct comparison I tried clear card once again but this time with the light country fiber cutting pad as you'll hopefully see the cut was greatly improved but also very similar to the previous two sections with the microfiber pads overall in this particular test on this paint and defects I'm still seeing a slightly greater difficulty focusing particularly on technique so just to give you guys an example on how important technique really is with certain compounds a great example is comparing master compound to clear cut which are actually extreme opposites in their chemistry and do need to be used with very different techniques if you want to get the most out of them where is master compound greatly benefits from using longer polishing cycles with increased pressure and machine speed to start with and slower speeds and less pressure to finish with clear cut is almost the complete opposite where there's no real benefit to polishing beyond three or four passes and light pressure and speed to begin with followed by more pressure and speed to end with renders the best results but then you have a compound like the last car that actually doesn't mind longer or shorter polishing cycles intends to conform and adapt to your personal technique rather than your having to conform to the compounds preferences now ultimately the great equalizer is why's the paint and that's where your ability to judge your results and determine the best products and techniques is a true deciding factor with all that said I'm gonna move forward with the last card on this particular testing panel to try and determine just how many passes and how much work it's gonna take to achieve at least 95 percent or greater difficulty in defects is still going to be a massive turnaround while still being realistic considering the time and cost restraints that are unfortunately a part of every job as I've discussed in past videos a great method to actually increase your cutting ability with any compound and pad is to simply work smaller sections and although that does mean that you need to do more sections you'll still find that it works out to be a quicker process in the long run when you are struggling to achieve the amount of cut you're getting another tip is to try and understand that all these compounds I'm using contain diminishing abrasives so about 80% of the cut actually happens in the first two or three row passes of your machine and after that all you're really doing is refining the finish so when you're doing multiple sets of passes in the same section it's far more efficient to stick to just two or three passes per set until the final set which will save you time minimize heat whilst being a far more effective method so after completing the compounding stage on this bonnet it's still looking like it's going to take at least four if not more sets of passes per section even when working smaller areas which is a true testament to just how ridiculously hard this paint with the severe defects in place really is saying this paint is hard is like saying it's difficult to reach the summit of Mount Everest which are both gross and the statements to say the least as you'll see feather on I dig it through this job by just in my techniques products tools and methods and lastly on this point I've actually corrected a lot of cars with extreme the hard paint including Volvo's BMWs Mercedes Audi 's and Volkswagens but this pain will be permanently etched into my brain as the hardest paints I've ever come across so part of this detail and the first testing phase is answering questions like what if these are the only compounds pads and machines I have to work with which honestly is already a pretty decent selection the answer in reality even when considering other options such as sanding rotary polishers and more aggressive compounds and pads is that there's just no getting around that it's gonna take a lot of work to restore this paint no matter which avenue you decide to take yes some options will be more time efficient than others but there's no quick fix method if you truly want to restore this paint to a high standard or really even just a decent standard on the subject of sanding car paint I've been seeing more and more posts in detailing groups where people who honestly don't seem to have much experience if any with that process are still recommending it to others suggesting that they should say in the entire car as it will be faster and safer to remove the defects I just want to quickly address this point from the point of view of someone who has sended cars before and try to explain that although sanding can be technically safer and it can also be technically quicker in most cases unless you are well-versed in this area I would strongly suggest you don't pursue that Avenue you need to understand that what is technically true and what is true in the real world can be two extremely different things I've no doubt that there are plenty of body shop professionals and certain Detailers that are well advanced in this area but for me personally sanding an entire car which includes all the panel's containing sharp curves panel creases and thin edges found on all modern cars is a lengthy process that takes weeks not days to complete unless you are a true master in that area or unless the quality of work you are producing is perhaps the subpar one final point on this topic is that hot pants are still hard when you sand them so you need to appreciate that the sanding process on a paint such as this it's still gonna require a lot of work starting with the more aggressive coarse grits and then refining them down which usually takes much longer than the first stage and you then have to start compounding and polishing which I'll try to explain once again on a paint this hard is not going to be a quick and easy process as even light sanding marks on this particular paint type are still a lot of work to refine in the end there are options to consider but if you think for one moment they're sending an entire car in this condition with this paint type is gonna somehow be a much easier process you're grossly mistaken it can actually be a way of creating an amazing show car finish but trust me when I say that it won't be quick or easy so with the bonnet completely compounded it was time to refine the finish the first combination I tried was conkers finesse on the Lake Country orange hto foam pad finesse is a great compound especially in this circumstance where the paint is so hard and a Polish with a little more bite is needed to make enough impact to refine the paint the second combination was with concours morphe on the same Lake Country pad I basically decided to use morphe mostly for the fact that it's another product I've been asked to show in my videos honestly morphe is a brilliant all-in-one polish that can be used as a primer base coat for certain ceramic or glass coatings I actually really like it for certain jobs such as one stage Corrections pre-cell details and for working on supersoft paints we're morph will harden after a couple of hours to reduce the chance of scratching the paint when the coating is applied in this case however I'm going to be using a new prototype spray coating as the paint protection product that actually needs to be applied to bare paint so I just wanted to use this opportunity to talk a little more about morph and showered in action the third Test section was with Polish angels master final polish on the Black Lake Country HCO fonepad overall I wouldn't expect this combination to be the best choice in this circumstance as master final polish is quite a fine and gentle polish as is the black HC o pad which on a paint such as this it'll most likely struggle to make any sort of impact but again a lot of what I'm trying to display in these videos is showing a variety of combinations and helping to explain where some are more successful than others in particular circumstances having a look at all three sections or would actually say that the section with morph is the best in relation to finishing loss but you need to appreciate that morphs filling ability and sealant like finish is what's really producing it but just as I suspected the combination with finesse is almost as good and far better than the last section with master final polish that although it is one of my favorite combinations for mythos of paints it's really just not aggressive enough to refine this much harder paint the bonnet was then finished using finesse with the orange hto foam pad but I'll also add that it did actually require a second set of passes to completely eliminate the compounding haze which then led me to believe that even a more slightly aggressive combination could be a faster solution which we'll look at in the next stage of testing [Music] so in the second phase of testing I decided to try a more aggressive approach using my rotary polisher with the HD wool cutting pads and also testing a few compounds starting with the angel wax resurrection now overall I found resurrection to be quite an aggressive compound but as I've explained and displayed in past videos I don't believe it to be a great combination with microfiber pads due to the inconsistent results it seems to produce however I've had great success with resurrection on more pads and found it to be a much better suited material for this compound another topic I wanted to address is Rudra polishing now a rotary can certainly be a more effective tool for heavy compounding but you need to appreciate that it's no magical solution to this extremely hard and damaged pain yes a can with proper technique and knowledge be a quicker way to level the defects on this paint but it's not gonna somehow turn this difficult job into an easy one so overall by using this new combination and changing my polisher pad and compound as well as my technique there has been an increased leveling ability with this different approach but I want to help explain that it's not a massive difference and technique is still the biggest factor in achieving this increased cutting ability the truth is that in my experience microfiber cuts better than wool but the issue is that microfiber doesn't work well with rotary polishers especially with larger pads as the machines become more difficult to control and even more so the results are inconsistent and the heat generation is dangerously high in effect a large throw dual action polisher with the microfiber pad and all things AKEL can actually cut more than a rotary polisher with wool the real difference is that if you change up a few things on your rotary polisher that you can't simply do with a dual action polisher that's when you can generate more cup with the rotary so what are those things that can create more cup with a rotary firstly is pad size I've switched from a five-inch backing plate to a six inch and the pad I'm actually using is a seven inch pad which i've also explained in past videos that the outer diameter of every pad is where the vast majority of cut is achieved regardless of the polisher so the larger the pad means the more cut now with dual action polishers you're limited to six inch backing plates put on writer is depending on the one you have you can step up to seven eight and nine inch plates and pads the other large factor is speed although di polishes are so light quite quickly they can't match the rotation speed of a single action rotary and although for the most part you really don't want to crank up your rotary to top speed as it will generate excess heat and increase marring with the proper understanding and technique using high speeds can actually work extremely well but at the same time you need to alter your technique to deal with this increase speed so things like shorter working cycles and speeding up your arm movement need to all coincide with that increase speed thirdly is pressure although you can apply pressure to a DI polisher you'll find that it also slows the machines rotation speed so in effect you're limiting the card due to the reduced rotation as you apply more pressure however unless you have a cheaper or under powered rotary the rotation speed won't be affected no matter how much pressure you apply in the end all these techniques and methods together with a few others is what's really going to influence the amount of cut you're able to achieve with a rotary polisher the for the most part don't really translate through to DI polishes which are less technique dependant machines so overall this combination in technique is still taking about three to four sets of passes to eliminate the defects as opposed to four or five passes with the previous combination on the bottom however the increased marring caused by the rotary polisher and wall pad is actually taking more time to refine the finish even when stepping up to a more aggressive combination in the final stage as a whole it's still a slightly quicker approach but taking into consideration that this is easily a week-long job it's actually still going to equate to saving a few hours of work during this whole paint correction process for the other side of the roof I decided to compare a few more compounds to see if I could increase my productivity any further starting with the repairs rotary course compound now I've tested this compound in a few of my past videos with good results but the main issues I had with it when using it with dual action polishers have actually been amplified since I've been testing it on my rotary I've actually found it extremely difficult to eliminate the compound splatter even after changing my technique and lowering my speeds the other issue is still the wipe off that although it's an easy and smooth wipe down there's still a thin greasy layer of residue that's just too much work to remove and requires multiple IPA wipe downs to completely get it off the paint as far as results goes it actually worked pretty well I'd even say the finish was a touch better than resurrection but the cut was a slight step down but regardless of those things this compound was just slowing me down due to the user experience of the splatter and product wipe off the second compound was detailing Kingdom's vision now from a user experience this compound couldn't have been more different it was an absolute pleasure to use with zero splatter and next to no dusting with a nice easy no fuss wipe off it was also actually able to finish down impressively but as far as difficult for goes it was a step down compared to both resurrection and the rivers course compound next was men's earners super heavy cut 300 now the only real issue I had with it from a user experience point of view was the increased dusting that seemed to progress an increase with each set of passes apart from that any splatter was quite minimal and the wipe off was also quite reasonable in relation to cart it was perhaps the next best section after resurrection but the finish is where it really fell short with increased haze Holograms and marring compared to the other compounds [Music] the last test was three days 501 I'd say from a user-friendly perspective it's set somewhere in the middle with slight dusting but nothing overly bad as was the wipe off and really not much product splatter at all however immolation to results this is where it really shined I was actually really impressed with the cart which proved to be the best so far and the finish was actually again quite good I decided to finish the whole side of the roof with 501 and in the end it actually seemed to be the quickest and most effective compound with the rotary and more pad for the edge work I did still use the shine made mini da polisher with the last cut and microfiber pad and the finish was then refined using finesse polish with the Lake Country HCI blue foam pads [Music] [Music] [Music] now the largest issue I was having at this stage was refining the finish which even after stepping up to a more aggressive combination in the second stage was still proving to be difficult and time-consuming so in this final testing phase where I used half of the door I wanted to explain why a three stage correction process is sometimes necessary and a better solution now although the combination of the rotary polisher together with 3d 5:01 had proven to be a quicker defect leveling process the aggressiveness of this combination was leaving quite a bit of compounding marring behind that just a single follow-up finishing stage was proving to be a struggle to refine so in this particular case starting with the wool pad and the rotary as the first primary cutting stage and then using the microfiber pad on the larger throw da polisher as the second refining stage was actually a quicker overall process that then made the third and final finishing stage a quick and easy step with the smaller shine rate polisher and foam pad which also produced the best finish so even though I added an extra step to the paint correction process it allowed the previous two stages to be shorter and quicker steps and apart from having a few additional benefits such as being a little quick up and reducing the heat with less overall aggression the finish itself was actually the best one so far so to some of the testing phases which I do really hope were useful pieces of information the real lesson of the day is that some harder paints that have been abused adjust and nightmare to work with no matter how you look at it and decide to proceed however that doesn't mean that you don't have options and that you can improve the situation by using some alternative techniques products and tools the rest of the car was completed using the same basic three-stage process but with some slight variations to address the more particular trends and alternative surfaces that each and every specific car contains [Music] the only soft paint I came across on this car was the piano black plastic trims found on the car door pillars sideview mirrors and some parts of the bumpers which was actually a nice break from the rest of the cars hard paint although these black trims were badly scratched a couple of set passes with precision compounds on the blue HDI foam pads followed by a single finishing pass with finesse polish on the black HDI pad was enough to restore them back to an almost perfect condition which was basically due to the softness of the paint on these panels which didn't really require anything more aggressive [Music] [Music] once the correction stage was completed compressed air was used to blow off any remaining dust and a final IPA wipe down using clarity was performed to prepare the car for the next protection stage as I mentioned earlier I'm using a new prototype hybrid spray coating as the paint protection product on this Clio RS this product really falls into a category that sits in between a ceramic or glass coating and your more standard paint sealant this really is a category that has been building up a lot of momentum over the last year as in general a product such as this is estimated to have a durability of about 12 to 18 months yet still be quite easy to apply for those people who are a little apprehensive about using a true nano coating but still want longer-lasting and increase protection over a standard wax or sealant now as far as application goes it's really the same as almost any spray sealant on the market in that you need to be applying it to well prepared clean and bare paint and just on a side note I do know that some people have been struggling with applying spray sealants such as car pro reload and Nova jet in my experience about 90% of these issues occur because the paint isn't adequately decontaminated or the paint really does need to be polished or corrected you will struggle in applying any paint protection product if the paint isn't properly prepared and that's the very issue that almost all people have with spray sealants and coatings in my experience the other 10% of issues tend to be things like applying too much product working areas that are too large waiting too long to wipe it down or working in the Sun or hot panels the only real difference with a hybrid coating such as this compared to a spray sealant is that it's gonna feel a little more grippy as you level it down but compared to a true nano coating which for me personally takes about two hours to correctly apply a hybrid coatings such as this should really take no more than about 45 minutes to coat the entire car which also includes all the glass and trims and the other benefit is that there's really no guesswork in knowing when to wipe it down as it's a white bond and immediately wipe off procedure with no waiting for flashing or curing times in the end and on a more personal level this really was one heck of a detail I hopefully have an update video on this car soon having a look at it during the first wash after the correction and protection detail as always thanks so much for watching please do like comment and subscribe to this channel to show your support for these videos and I'll see you soon [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music]

Channel: Car Craft Auto Detailing

Views: 30,565

Keywords: renault clio rs, GRIT GUARDS, how to polish hard paint, how to detail a car, best car polish, best car wax, cest ceramic coating, BAR PRESSURE WASHER, PURGE WHEEL CLEANER, vikan brush, wheel woolie, tyre wheel bush, SNOW PLUS FOAM, CONCOURS PURIFY, PAINT THICKNESS GAUGE, SHINE MATE, RUPES LHR15 MKII, POLISHANGEL MASTER COMPOUND, CARPRO CLEARCUT, MICROFIBRE PADS, FLEX PE 14-2 150 ROTARY, MENZERNA, 3D AAT 501, RUPES MILLE, professional detailing

Id: iPOD3qSyWRA

Length: 51min 6sec (3066 seconds)

Published: Wed May 09 2018