Ford 5.4L 3v Triton Engines: Always Check This First Before Performing a Timing Job on this Engine!

foreign guys welcome back to the forge type make your loco Channel So today we're going to show you the very first thing that I checked when a vehicle comes into my shop for a timing job um this is then going to help me determine does it need an engine or does it need a timing job it's a very simple check and we're going to show you how today let's go over the vehicle and get started okay so the issue we're going to talk about today is most common on the 06 through 08 model years it can be any model but the 06 through 08 years those are the absolute worst with 07 of course being The Sweet Spot the one you want to avoid at all costs so this one right here is an 06 Expedition the customer brought it in says you know it's not running so well anymore it has check engine light on with timing error code set check it out see if it needs a timing job like every other 543 valve out there and if so go ahead and do it well I'm gonna go ahead and I'm gonna check it out before we just commit to a full-on timing job so one of the first things I do of course I'll check the oil level make sure it's full make sure it's not cooked because the whole VCT system is ran off of oil and oil pressure same thing over here I'll pull the oil fill cap get a good flashlight down in there and I'll get a general sense of the inside of the engine make sure the inside of the engine is not cooked and then I'll of course pull coats on them so you can see it's an o6 about 150 000 miles on it yeah it's due for a timing job but doesn't need an engine so let's pull some codes on it yep sure enough usual timing error codes for being over over Advanced we have lean codes efficiency codes and stuck lean codes in the o2s all codes that I ignore until the two for the timing error codes are fixed because everything else is affected by the engine running properly up here with the timing error codes so okay I checked all that on this one and it looks good to go the very next thing I'll do because it is you know one of those years that are most common for this concern is I will do a quick visual for crankshaft and play so what happens is a thrush washer on these they like to get eaten up for whatever reason on these years and then the crankshaft will start to walk back and forth and when it does that loses oil pressure and then it starts having VCT timing error codes because a thrust washer and the crankshaft is done for so if you look at this one you get a good flashlight down in here all you gotta do is look at it and here's the crankshaft pulley right here you see it the big pulley at the bottom well it should be just about smashed against that front cover the timing cover on there so we try to focus you in here let me try to hold the focus there we go so on this one I know it's hard to tell from up top here but I'll show you again down below it's sticking way out from that front cover probably let me look at it probably a quarter inch or so big time it's sticking way out of there now again like I said the the dampener should be so close to that front cover it looks like it's you know touching basically so go ahead and we'll show you with a long screwdriver get down in there just to illustrate it I mean look at that it fits right in there that's how much room was behind there and this thing should be just about touching the front cover and I can fit that way down then you'll see it from Down Below in a second here where it's it's it's sticking way out on there so just for example this one right here is an I believe an 06 or an 07 also uh this one did pass the thrust washer check I did a timing job on it about a year or so ago everything's great with it he's back for some Driveline stuff driveshaft stuff like that so this one right here like I said is just fine and it passed and it's a really good example to show you how it should look so again I'll try get you down in here and focus there you go so look at that dampener right here again is a dampener right there look how close it is to the front cover looks like it's almost touching right that's how it should look so a spec on here is like three thousands to 14 000 so I'm playing most of the ones that I get in that I do actual M play checks on with a dial indicator are around seven to eight thousands of movement Max uh so they're usually right against the front cover like that's how they should look so when you look at the other one over there you do a quick Visual and you see it sticking out a quarter inch on the Expedition over there it throws a red flag immediately so let's go ahead and go underneath the vehicle we're going to show you how to do an end play check to verify it really easily without any special tools okay so this is how I check for crankshaft and play to see if that thrust washer has actually failed so on this one we know it has failed already it probably has 30 thousands of M play in there well beyond the spec uh but what I'll show you is this one how I checked for it and how bad this one is but also probably show you in the end what a good one looks like on the other engine over there so what you want to do is you just want to slide underneath your vehicle here you shouldn't need to jack it up or anything slide yourself underneath here get a good flashlight pointing up at the crankshaft dampener on there you can see it right there so we can get a good view of it so we can see how much M play is actually going on here so if you look at this one you can see it's much easier to see from down below here how much of a gap there is between the dampner and the front cover on there uh you know for a dent where I should just about be touching the front cover you can see there's one heck of a gap and there's definitely something going on here so we're gonna do now is a real crude method of checking for crankshaft and play we basically need a decent sized pry bar and a small block of wood and that's it all right here we go we're going to show you exactly how to do this so what you want to do is get your block of wood you're going to place it right here against the cross member you're going to take your bar initially you're going to put it on the front side of the crankshaft damper there and we're going to push the crankshaft into the engine all the way foreign just like that so no matter how far out or in it is we're going to make sure it's all the way in just like that okay it's good to go and then what you're going to do is you're going to take your pry bar and put it in the back side of the dampener like that and we're gonna pry off the steering gear right here and we're gonna pull the crankshaft out of the engine you see how much movement there was on that one is very obvious let me do it again so if you're unsure you know in and out a couple times to make sure this one's very obvious that has failed I'm gonna try to go over here off to the side so I'm out of your way so you guys can see this here we go we're gonna pull it out and that noise you're hearing right there is actually the crankshaft touching the back side of the oil pump inside of there that's how much it's moving so hopefully you got a nice close-up going on there way in touch again all the way out look at that that amount of movement on there so with that when you have a situation like that uh the r indicator is this right here for me anyway now I know the five four three valve doesn't really have an issue with rear main seals leaking it's probably changed one or two my whole life these engines and I've been working on since they came out in o4 look at this one look at the amount of oil all over back here it's actually forming drips on the sway bar here and it's all over the bell housing all over the back side here and the pan if you look at it is dry all the way up so the common leak on the the oil pans that people misdiagnose all times it's oh it's oil pan leak oh it's a rear main seal leak when actually the pan is wet all the way from the front to the rear and it just pulls up back here but in this case you can see it's dry both sides are dry like this but back here just concentrated is tons of oil because the rear main is leaking because that crankshaft is going in and out in and out of the ingest walking so much that's tearing up the rear main seal on there okay now we're gonna do the same exact test on a good 543 valve Engine with zero thrust washer issues so again we're going to start off by pushing the crankshaft into the engine okay good to go and then we're gonna try prying it out same exact way now you see that little bit of movement there when he's really prying on it there that is the rubber dampener part of the pulley that's flexing it's not actual crankshaft uh movement so that's just a dampener so go back again push it back into the engine so this is the way it should look there's no discernible movement at all we're going back and forth back and forth and there's no discernible movement at all so watch we're going to try to pull out again good pry on there right and you see that little bit of movement right there see that I move like that that is just the rubber on the dampener moving and giving away that's not actual crankshaft play so this one probably has you know four or six thousandths of play on there well within the spec that's how they should look they should barely move it if anything at all it's very obvious which one has failed here all right so you guys saw that was it was pretty obvious which one was bad even without a dial indicator did you learn something today definitely was interesting uh learned something today for sure it's one of those pre-checks you want to do all I really do here is timing jobs you're gonna be taking over the company here eventually eventually yep timing jobs are never going to end especially in the 543 valve it seems uh so it's one of those things you want to check before you get in too deep and spend thousands of dollars and then you come out and you still have the same problem with wheel pressure and volume issues that's all for now I'll see you guys next time

Channel: FordTechMakuloco

Views: 138,238

Keywords: FordTechMakuloco, ford, fix, problem, repair

Id: MARIUcyEnSk

Length: 11min 55sec (715 seconds)

Published: Mon Dec 12 2022