Ford 4r75 4r75E transmission assembly rebuild

all right good morning guys uh this morning we got a 4r75e transmission also 475w similar to the 470 before it typically 2004 and up they have the middle speed sensor in the case here um for the composite shell 04 to 07 even up to 08 has a hard wire harness inside 09 and up e-model has a soft wire harness inside really similar to overhaul they're in a lot of Econoline Vans really small crappy train you're not really enough transmission for those big Vans e250s e350s also an F-150s so really common transmission we build a ton of them here this would be a little crash course just kind of quick assembly I've sub-assembled some stuff uh done some Sonics upgrades on the valve body one of the big upgrades on this transmission is to ream the overdrive Servo bore we use the sonics reamer I believe Northland has one too but right there in that case that Servo bore we ream it out and sleeve it whenever you take them apart they're really wobbly I think it's just bad quality aluminum they're using anymore these days but you can use an old Servo pin right here always put it in your case you can check the wobble shouldn't have any wobble to it they can have a little bit this one's already been reamed and sleeved but that can contribute to burn up overdrive bands a direct clutch problems there's release oil for third gear in there so always ream that case out Sonics makes a pin with an o-ring on it you can use if they're not really that worn or you don't have a reamer kit but you always need to address that bore but we'll get it going here and I just kind of give you a quick assembly on the 475e all right so we've got the case all in place there this unit is known to just eat up Torrington bearings cost clearance issues damage the the planetary gear the sun gears uh start first with the case touring 10. I got it popped apart these are pitted more often than not so typically you'll want to replace that bearing if it's pitted if it looks okay you can snap it back together there she is back together put that in the case you can also replace this bushing down in the case if those were out they can actually re-groove the back of the case so another issue there to deal with once you get the case washed too put the snapping back in this is the rest for the band actually first you want to put the ring gear in I'm sorry if you ever change the gear train because a lot of times these things are exploded make sure you match up your ring gear the later ones like this have no holes in it as in early ones have holes and it will affect the tone ring for the speed sensor and cos speedometer issues so this one is the later one 04 and up you want to put that in there I already got my new rings on here ceiling rings you want to watch this snap ring typically you can only break a chunk off of it and it'll Jam in the back of the case on this side I have the new ceiling rings for the direct clutch drum I have a tool here which is actually the remnants of a broken direct drum you can kind of take snap ring pliers expand the Rings and work them over by hand and then take your fingers and squeeze them back in then get this insole tool on there I try to get this stuff on there first so it can set up get the Rings back in place so that they don't tear when we put it together so basically it's got the ring setting up in there output shaft back on the ring gear put your snap ring in place it's a wave snap ring now I also take and shave a little bit off the end of this on a sander there's some bulletins about the shaft being a little too long and it can bind against the slip yoke when these Vans are overloaded and then it can cause extra stress on the Torrington bearings inside so I shave a little bit off of there probably should take a little more but just some insurance then you want to take and Lube up your ceiling rings again I use 90 weight kind of lube up the surface where the bushing rides turn it around get it in the case there down all the way just be careful putting it down you don't want to break one of those metal ceiling rings now you can put your rest snap ring in there for your band that just kind of rests down there in the bottom all it does is balance the uh Reverse band another common issue on these Vans reverse bands snap this lug off here you'll see when they start wearing and wear the material away no reverse when that breaks another common failure so got your new band laid in there and then when it's in place correctly you can put a pick through here activate it so next you're going to want to build your direct drum these are another common issue I want to take your little intermediate shaft here check the spline wear in it you can flip it over look for ceiling ring or sealed problems there where the ceiling Rings ride takes a lip seal in there this little one right here skirt goes down I always take a pick here and work it on and as you spin the drum get it down in place and then take a pick here and just kind of work upward and make sure the skirts kind of turned outward so that's all good take your piston always smack it make sure this little check ball is loose check the inside of this for any big wire you can Scotch break that if there's just a little bit of wear in there get your new lip seal on here with the skirt going downward a little grease in here remove this lip seal that one taking my trusty lip seal knife kind of rest it in there and you just lightly kind of spin it around and finesse it get that skirt kind of down into the chamfer boom just like that got her down in place you never want to force or muscle those lip seals take a while to get used to and get good at you don't want to tear it or cut it then you have a leak taking it back apart so we got your return spring snap ring gonna go put it in the foot press which you really need a foot press to do these you might be able to figure a way to do it without but it'd be a nightmare so there's your snap ring I've already popped this Torrington apart it looks good these are another one that's known to go bad so put a little grease on it put on the back of the drum put a little grease in here for the ceiling rings so then you want to put your spacer in here this indentation goes down to help keep the snap ring in place this touring stand also always open it these are known to pit basically all three of these torringtons the case one the two direct drum ones and then also the ones on the planet are just notorious for pitting just getting ground into nothing you'll pull the pan and it'll be just full of metal okay so you got that in there I want to forget don't forget your direct clutch uh clutch Hub in here lay that in there and then you can start putting your direct clutches and Steels in you can also put that Hub in after you do the clutches but it's kind of hard sometimes to finagle it in there so I just put it over the Hub as you're building it okay got that in place you want to get your snap ring here I always pull them out a little bit smack it on the bench and then you can kind of feel your clearance of that clutch these clutches are a little sloppy you can tighten it up with the thicker snap ring but this one's probably about 60 thousands you don't want to go too tight because there's a spec and it can affect the way the shift is the ply or the release so now you can take your tool out put your drum in here so you got your direct drum in place and now you can give it an air check so down here in the bottom of the case it's the feed hole on the left just hit it with some air apply that clutch simulate oil air checks good so now you're going to grab your planetary it's right here we got a new bushing in here you got to be careful because these can get ground up and worn up worn down if there's planetary failures bearing problems try to feel that bearing in there just one big planet is all this unit has then you want to get your sprag in place just lay it in there get your drum down in there [Music] hear that she's down all the way now what I'll do next is put in the Reverse band servo kind of Grease the bore up there you always want to check these Servo Pistons this rubber is nice and soft they're notorious for getting hard and brittle almost hard like plastic so you want to replace these same with this cover even the new ones on these the rubber is pretty hard but always check or replace these now this one has three lines in it there's different lengths of these pins for applying the band and getting a better engagement a lot of the later ones have a three ring I've used the two ring in place of it when these are on back order so just be mindful of that they have a one ring also so get your return spring on there get a little bit of Lube on there so I can put it in there so you can apply the band and kind of get a test check on it that's where I get my snap ring ready on my hammer handle make sure you put this in right it even says outside on the cover so you can't really mess it up but you'd be surprised some of the units we tear down that people tried to build that don't know and cause more problems than they fix so basically put that in there carefully get your Hammer handle apply it push it in enough to get your snap ring in here that's in place always look around there make sure it's in the groove you can even take a little screwdriver tap it in the groove I don't want a Servo to blow out and have an issue so next we put in the center support look at these they're always notorious to get where as they kind of beat in the case get these lugs beat up some have a big ledge on all of them this one looks really good so be mindful of that you can get some hard clunky engagements when those are worn out there's an anti-rattle clip we'll put in place but when they're really worn out the rattle clip just doesn't work as effective so when you put this in you got to clock this hole over here to the overdrive band strut lug and then you have an opening here for your middle speed sensor so you lay it down in there and the easiest way I've found to put this all down you grab your Sun Gear and and both your sun gears and shell assembly here place it in here there you go spin it pops it down into place take your Center support pull it towards the left side of the case grab your anti-rattle clip typically just like that or it can be a little bit of a pain but basically if you start one end of it push it in there with your finger and just tap it down just enough you still want it to kind of tension so that when that support moves it kind of spring tension against it so it keeps it it's smooth on the engagements there one big mistake guys make on these because on the earlier models it doesn't matter when they just have the one speed sensor in the bottom but since there's two speed sensors here you want to keep the opening of the snap ring in the speed sensor hole so put this part right here get that in place see now you can still put your speed sensor hole and I've seen guys build these and then you go to put it in you can't get the speed sensor in you take the whole unit back apart so that's in place what you can do now you can reach down or turn it up spin your output shaft a little bit of in and out clearance that looks good they also make a heavy duty snap ring of these I believe Superior so that's all good to go there I've already checked my Sun Gear make sure none of these are pitted or chipped up it's good to put new bushings in The Sun Gear check this Torrington for any pitting you can see the sun shell is a little bit of wear on it from the prior bearing failure it'll be fine check these tangs in here the reverse drum can kind of beat into notches into them this one's fine this is a composite shell so basically all four and newer use this shell it's non-magnetic the earlier ones use a magnetic shell if you interchange this stuff you'll get incorrect speeder readings problems so make sure if it has a composite shell in it you have to put the correct one in foreign okay so that's in there right I always put the transmission in park it will make it easy to put in the uh reverse and forward drum you got another Torrance in here you want to pop it apart check it Forward clutch Hub it's got a Torrington that rests in here pop it apart check it intermediate shaft okay so now you're in park it's going to help put those drums down all right so the reverse drum here got a couple things you'll want to do and look at there's two seals down in there I have it sub-assembled this return spring is known to crack and break if it's so you want to replace it then you also have a Torrington bearing here that goes in the reverse drum now you have to be careful if you lay these bearings out in order the case bearing has a little bit bigger skirt on it that goes in the bottom of the case the reverse drum one has the no skirt it just goes inward a big mistake guys make is they put this bearing in the bottom of the case and they put the case bearing on the reverse drum so it'll all assemble and then when you go to bolt the pump in it'll make a pop cracking sound and it's that bearing cracking the ledge on it so you got to take it apart get the bearing in there correct so I suggest lay everything out in order if you've never done it before you're gonna limit more problems from happening because again all it takes is one wrong move so many parts in a transmission you know even if you assemble it right there can be a problem so you want to try to limit any issue you can have okay so reverse drum clutches in place there These Are A little sloppy like the direct clutch that is completely normal I've seen guys try to tighten them up but reverse engagements are dress fine look at the tangs on this drum they can get big notches beat into them against that sun shell this is your sprag turns to the left blocks to the right another problem for 70s 75s I have is this snap ring you'll take it apart it'll be bent popping off or off of there throw that away you want to put the sonics updated spiral snap ring in place part number I believe is 74. uh 74 948 RK I believe but it uses a kind of a washer here and then you have a spiral snap ring you basically take the spiral start it and work it around the drum always want to put one of these in so now she's on there take a screwdriver go around it like six times and just knock that over so it can't come off so that's in place there always make sure the surface is good for your overdrive band you can have a little bit of heat marks you can take a straight edge make sure it's flat you don't want it dished and seared really bad okay so got my forward run here earlier I put the new ceiling rings on you don't need a special tool but you take your new ceiling Rings take a snap ring pliers just expand them a bit and then I use a pick kind of work them down into their grooves take my fingers and kind of squeeze them back in and then I use the stator here as a tool to size them so I've been letting them set up just like I did the direct clutch while I've been doing other stuff so here this one all right so now we are to the forward clutch drum another issue these units have they will break this groove out of the forward clutch drum the snap ring Groove they make a Billet steel updated drum you can press your shaft into it that's the best upgrade to do right here we have our piston got the new lip seals on there so when that snap ring Groove breaks it'll over extend this piston cut the lip seals typically cause slipping and first skier no first you got to rev it up to get it to go usually a po731 first gear ratio code and you'll explain to customers what that is and they'll think it's a solenoid but it's actually a broken drill so put your rest your piston in there take your lip seal knife same thing lightly go around the inside with just a little bit of tension on your fingers then the outside part of it in there again just finesse boom she's in place got your return spring retainer snap ring we'll go put this in the foot press so we got her all in place there take a screwdriver make sure that snap rings in all the way and then now you're going to want to put your uh forward clutch together so here you got your wave plate what these waves do or Belleville Springs make a smooth engagement when you put it in drive so it kind of makes it slowly clamp the clutch on instead of a fast aggressive apply so we got steel and a clutch got some high energy clutches in here okay we'll get our snap ring in smack it on the bench feel your clearance another sloppier clutch pack these 470s are set up pretty sloppy but that just comes on when you put it in Drive so that clearance is fine right there again there's things you can do to Snug it up a bit but this is just a basic assembly for you then you'll put your reverse drum all the way over your four drum till it bottoms out take some pliers here grab the assembly make sure your is in park and then you'll work it on you know it's down all the way when you can pick up a bit sounds solid you can see reverse drum tanged into the sun shell everything looks down good get your new overdrive band here get it on one side on that anchor these overdrive Servo Pistons are best to replace if they get any wobble in the pin where it goes in the piston make sure this spring isn't broken make sure this rubber bonded piston here is soft and looks okay it's not scratched up you want to put your return spring on here one of the most important things replace your overdrive snap ring for the servo these are notorious to break little eyelets off and then they'll Jam the three four shift valve open so customers will say that they'll put it into uh when it goes to overdrive it just neutralizes so basically replace the snap ring make sure the valve body isn't stuck a big problem that they have so here I'm going to lube this up I'm going to get my snap ring over my hammer handle gotta move this over basically I take a pick here get get the band up over the pin of the servo this one takes a good amount of force and good snap ring pliers so you want to compress that snap ring pull push in there we got her in there take a sneaker driver make sure that's okay so now we got the band in place you can stack your clearance on it right there make sure it's in all right Next Step Okay so we've got your band in place there once again make sure it's got clearance there it looks good so then you'll have your intermediate clutch for second gear put your pressure plate down clutch deal clutch Steel clutch another steel clutch so yeah intermediate for the one two shift so typically when you have good clearance you have just a little step down there between this case and that steel put your return spring in there made some little dowels here for putting uh lining your pump get those in there don't forget your pump gasket all right and then we have our pump body I already put the new bushing and seal in here typically the groove of that bushing will go in the lube channel right here put your new o-ring on here then you'll have your intermediate Servo piston same thing look around this make sure it's pretty soft they're not the softest rubber even when they're new I'm sure your check check Ball's not stuck take and move this one up lock it right there push it down all the way and you want to take your pump gears make sure that they're not all scored up you'll see a chamfer right here that goes into the Hub of the converter basically the flat side is goes stays upward here you want to put the chamfer down so big problems if you do that wrong so make sure you get that pump gear in right always lube it up make sure you got good Lube inside your pump gears you don't want a cold fire with no lube okay there's that there so now you'll go on to your stator make sure your bushings look good the surface of your pump's good got your two metal ceiling Rings we got on here and the 75 W and E uses these plastic Rings here the upper two always kind of Bend those in a little bit make sure they hug the part they're going on so you got your four rings on there pump washer so you can glue that on there pretty easy there's a little spot to index it and then you want to assemble your pump we'll move bolts in one way foreign it's just hard to find the bolts in the basket here where we've laid them all out okay so you got those in there foreign [Music] together I'm gonna put some lube around those ceiling rings and then your o-ring you want to lube that up really good too okay so now always line up that hole there only bolts in one way but makes it easier to put down so I'll take your Hammer handle until she's down and you want to get your pump bolts lay them all out here do a little bit of lock status pillow dab on them I believe the Torx spec on these is about 18 foot pounds what you'll probably want to do first take a speed handle slightly bolts it down make sure that your input shaft is going to spin there let's tighten a couple make sure it spins both ways feels good and now you can go around and tighten all of them you're going to go around and torque them okay and check it again good so now you can take it tilt it up good clearance take it out of park spins both ways that ratcheting sounds normal that's sprag freewheeling at this point you can kind of look over anything flatten any any Burrs there from taking your snap ring out so now you want to put your screen in the case here this is your pressure control solenoid it's good to take these out and test them put new O-rings on them or replace them you'd have to pull this little roll pin here and take this nut loose pull the shift shaft out then you can take out your EPC so next we'll get my direct direct accumulator piston here these are another one make sure they're nice and soft no scoring on them make sure the bore looks good you want to put some more Lube on this one and then you just want to take some snap ring pliers and very lightly finesse it in the case it's good there you don't want to roll it got your return spring there and then you have this little hat here basically this tit has to go upward guys think it goes down is wrong incorrect it goes just like this put that in place there then you can do your one two accumulator big screens spring goes down first foreign that piston might be in the wash and then for extension housing the earlier units use this one with the little red adhesive in it this one takes the green one the 475e typically takes this gasket you can't really mess them up and then you want to take your housing here and make sure there's no gasket on it or anything get it cleaned up check this bushing in here we'll replace it to put your new seal in right here kind of have a little tool here to put them in [Music] and get your housing all bolted in this one uses a stud on one side whoops foreign I'll go get my accumulator piston this double spring goes on top some models use just a single spring same with this rubber make sure it's nice and soft and looks good you have to get that snap ring back down in the case I'm usually use my hammer handle to push down on it valve body wise I'll show you guys right here most common things we do they have some valve body issues I'll show you the sonics parts we use so basically right here overdrive Servo regulator this little tiny valve here it wears this little bore there's a little sleeve in there 76 948 29k it's a drop in valve now this valve right behind it's the 3 4 shift valve that is typically where the little chunk of the overdrive Servo snap ring will go down stick this valve open so typically you have to use a little pocket screwdriver open this you'll see a chunk in there you got to take out with a magnet or a pick or an air blower so make sure that's not stuck that will cause a neutralization on the 3-4 shift the other valves we do now on Van sometimes these can make the shifts a little bumpy um but we like them especially when they're loaded down it's an elevated PR valve and spring so it's a drop in valve right here it comes with a stiffer spring and a valve with better grooves cut into it to dissipate the oil these bores where they get scratched up can cause delayed engagements also metal fine metal gets in them they stick so this PR valve the sonics number for the elevated PR valve 76 948 12K that basically comes with a valve and spring this is my old one the new one's black in color it has a stiffer spring and then the valve that goes on the outboard is the reverse boost valve they also wear that little valve in there replace that 76 948.02k and then the TCC one right here is also known to where you can take that one out check the bore in there Sonic's makes that one too and another important one here is the solenoid regulator valve right here the sonics makes a boring tool for it so if you put take the old valve out and run your bore through it clean the slant these lands up the part number is 76 948 14k and get your new valve in there a new spring and then after that basically you got your valve body gaskets you get the correct kit the 475 kit 75w and E you can't mess it up there's only one bottom gasket but you'll want to watch if you get the earlier kit which usually has both gaskets your lower gasket here has one feed hole that could be blocked if you have the earlier 03 and older gasket on it so you want to make sure you have the right one typically if it says one WP is the later one and then the X X series one is the older one so make sure you get those right and other than that once you get your valve body back on there wire harness and filter good to go

Channel: ANDREW KOUTLAS

Views: 14,189

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Id: vcVylvr55-8

Length: 37min 36sec (2256 seconds)

Published: Sun May 21 2023