Ford 4.6L 5.4L 3v Engines: VCT Solenoid Replacement

all right today I have an instructional video on how to change the BCT solenoid on the 4.6 liter and the 5.4 liter 3-valve engines now they're pretty common to stick on these especially the higher mileage or if your EF is lack of maintenance on the engine they'll stick at low mileages let's say 40 50 60 thousand miles whereas now I'm sure you guys are experiencing this more because the vehicles you know from old for um they started using this well by no 2015 we're starting to see some higher mileage I these vehicles and no matter what we're going to start seeing failures like this phasors making knocking noises chains coming apart tension airs blowing out and these solenoids stick and they stick in their bore and they cause all kinds of drivability issues especially after you eat when you come down to a stop after you've been driving for a while and what happens is you're driving along yeah the signal gets sent out to the solenoid for it to advance of timing it opens up the solenoid let's boil flow the phaser the phaser advances gives you better fuel economy power a lot of garbage right well it gets stuck in that advanced phase on there continually flows oil to it even when the PCM pulls power from the solenoid you get to your stop your stop light and you're over advanced and the in chip feels the right I'll is really rough and it feels like it's kind of diet or it or it does die out so in this video I will walk you right through it there's a few different minor changes from the 4.6 at a 5.4 mainly in the amount of bolts in the valve cover depending on early inlay fields and of course the torque sequence all that information me down below in the description along with the new updated VCT solenoids from for not only get to Ford V CT solenoids and those will be down below in the description so you can just click on those and order them up on there now in order to get these v CT solenoids on the 4.6 liter and 5.4 liter you're gonna have to remove the valve cover and it's just a bunch of bolts going all the way around it there's some in the back there buried and there's some up here a bunch of harnesses and such like that attached to it some PCV lines and the courser coils have to come out after that he's going to be stuck on air this one's loose as far as the bolts we're going to break the sealant bond up here in the front to get the top off of there there we go and then the driver's side you're going to have the oil dipstick tube here that's going to be attached to the head you're going to pull the 8 millimeter screw out of there it kind of pull it back a little bit so you can get clearance to get it off of there and it's make sure you pull it up high enough to actually clear the VCT solenoid it's kind of a fight that's not too bad just kind of force the oil dipstick tube out of the way it's flexible and it's going to happen to it there you go and then you're always going to have your valve cover gasket stuck on here always get stuck to the head side the hot side get that out of there this one's really dry rotted nice and hard get that out of there we're going to change that either way let's clean this up real quick and you can see this engine was not taken care of too well and that's the reason why at less than hundred thousand this VCT solo nights already sticking it's quite a bit of varnish in here and it doesn't take much for that so and I start sticking it's pretty precise inside of there this isn't the worst engine I've seen but it ain't isn't you know isn't good now before you pull that bolt out just make sure you put rags all the way around here just keeps you lose that little bolt because that's going to fall down right into the front cover cavity and we're going to lose it and we're going to go fishing for it whereas this way we got something to catch it now of course you want to sit here and take it out and be ready and hold it very well a lot of times what I'll do is just this you got it down there the bolts in there still I'll pull a solenoid and the bolt out together and that way it's kind of captured now you may notice that the bolt on here is a capture design see I can't get it out of there so you're asking why do I put those rags down there still well I've seen these guide done a lot of these over the years with their screw it's such precise fit right here where it goes through that little Tang that it actually starts threading through there and it can come out when you're threading it out and you don't even know what till you lose it this isn't always a foolproof design it's best to be safe so this one you can see is not too bad the screen odds it doesn't no debris from the engine but this one the screen on this one is blown out on here right there and it's kind of part on there this whole screen is actually coming apart so as cracked and lost the screen material inside of here so it's a good idea to look down in the bore in here with a flashlight all the way on the bottom and there's two slots in the side here for the oil feed you'll see them inside of there and make sure there's no fine debris in there or pieces of the screen before you put your new solenoid in there now your new solenoid is all titled up already internally it's ready to go bolts in it already comes with it so let's make sure that bore is clean line it up there's no seals or nothing like that the bore is actually so precise in there that it seals itself and lets get the screw started by hand here it's fine threads small bolt we don't wanna cross threading tighten it up you can just do hand tight on here there's no need for torque in these make sure you get your rag out of there we may start cleaning the whole valve cover gasket area remember this whole area out here that's always corrosion and dirt that's like baked into here you don't need to go after all its you just need to go where the shiny part is right here where it actually seals some of the varnish off stuff like that and of course change your your valve cover gasket on the valve cover itself and then you're going to want to scrape this sealant off there's one here and one down here where the head meets the front cover and we're put engine sealant back on in there - black engine sealant and you can see on here all the varnish that's inside of the valve cover it's a good indication of the overall maintenance of the vehicle and that's the same stuff that's sticking that VCT solenoid now once the solenoids bolted in and the gasket surface area on here is cleaned up I wipe the journal's down and all the area in here in case any garbage got here an accident and then I go over each one of these lobes on the cam and I squirt them with oil on there so they have a fresh oil on there and they're pre lubed for startup now I already have the new gasket pressed into place in the valve cover and the last thing I do is put a dab of engine seal in here the black engine sealant where the head meets the front cover about that size and it'll squish out nicely without going too far into the head cavity and then besides that just put it back in there very carefully so you don't get your screws scratching the cam journals or anything weird like that and we set it down nice and straight on that silicone sealant and this VCT soul and I will kind of help you line up all the screws on here get your top screws in first and those will start lying at the bottom ones they like to hang over and get caught up we'll go around make sure that they're all in there especially on the top and the sides and they'll kind of guarantee the bottom ones are hanging over and messing the gasket up now watch you got all these bolts thread it in by hand at least a little bit so you know that they're going in there properly jump around from the center out in the swirl pattern and you're going bigger and bigger from the center out and we're just going to Snug them down to get at the excessive length out of the bolt so they're snugged up and then we can go ahead and do it actual torque sequence I love torque sequences down below in the description the 4.6 liter 3-valve it's been the same all these years ten bolts and a belt cover whereas the early 5.4 liter 3-valve engines they had a 15 bolt valve cover Oh some huge mess and is there's bolts in the back back here that were hard to get to and everything else and then 2008 they went down to a 10 volt valve cover also there was a lot more robust like this one and only needed 10 bolts we're going to clean our spark plug wells up one last time compressed air just in case and then we can start dropping coils back into there as these were getting all brand new coils as part of another repair on this particular vehicle make sure you put a little bit dielectric grease in the bottom of the coil just a little bit as all it requires and then these all just simply push right into place try to push them in as square as possible so that they actually contact the sparkplug down below the center electrode on there the top in there put our little seven millimeter screws in here we can just tighten these down there's no real torques back for these I'm sure it's in somewhere in the 50 60 inch pound range but I snug them up by hand and they'll never come loose little quarter inch ratchet kind of feel it or in my case a quarter inch impact like I still feel it so it's great about this tool has a good feel to it it's a lot quicker and drill by hand but you're not breaking stuff either okay starts that hammer effect you can really feel it and then this harness just comes back down all I did was pull it off of there and tuck it up out of the way I never touched the fuel lines or nothing like that didn't disconnect anything seemed to get it out of here there we go and then the first thing you want to do is these right here these push into the valve cover and then we'll locate the harness all the way down for you so you get everything in the right place and that has you know that memory to the harness and it just kind of pushes right in place it's kind of hard to mess up the connections on here they're just the right length and like I said it has that memory VCT solenoid that on these are all connected still and just go from the front to back make sure each coil and no fuel injectors connected all the way down what's the hardest thing on this particular vehicle the 4-6-3 valve compared to the 5.4 push tuned pushed in and then over here I have the connector for the evap purge solenoid I've pulled that off to have some extra access and that goes down right here just slides in and the same thing coming off you press his tang in and it slides off it's got a little bracket here you'll see it and then this connection goes into the intake here under the throttle body until it clicks like that and I'll do our left will connect your obviously we'll put this big line on that's coming from the fuel tank area put that back on the first solenoid was in the bottom port till it snaps connector everything kind of lays in position so it kind of helps you memorize where everything goes put our PCV ventilation line back on here it snaps into place and then plug the other side into the front of the intake right next to the throttle body you'll see it the one thing I forgot to mention that I did already was put that eight millimeter screw back into the head that you know that supports the oil dipstick tube here all right and that wasn't so bad was it few bolts get the harnesses all the way quills out of the way and that's all a knife slips right into there so it's pretty easy job as far as diagnosing this problem there'll be a future video out on how to diagnose this for over-advanced / codes even po3 40 codes are coming with these any kind of timing error codes because of these solenoid stick and can can occur and I'll show you a quick easy five-second test you can do to see these Solon's are actually sticking or not and then you know hey I need to order them up and start changing stuff out on here so be on the lookout for that video and a bunch more videos coming out it got a bunch of work coming in with the shop here and there's me a lot of different new videos coming out so just stick to and be patient

Channel: FordTechMakuloco

Views: 709,391

Keywords: Ford Motor Company (Automobile Company), Variable Cam Timing, Thomas, Engine, Solenoid, Engine (Literature Subject), Auto Show (Event), Tank, Engine (boogie-rock Band), Automobile (TV Genre), Start, Friends, Gas, Nickelback, Starting, Rockstar, Diesel, Sound, Carlucci Weyant (Film Actor), Pump, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, Cold

Id: QDv6hA9facc

Length: 16min 4sec (964 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 19 2015