hello everyone, today I would like to present you my version of the fire torch, the basis comes from Oliver Möll, who has already published several videos of the construction of the fire torch here on YouTube . Maybe you'll get a few suggestions and I wish you a lot of fun now. For the construction we need a few parts. Especially now the square tubes in 80 by 80. A round tube with a diameter of 114mm and a diameter of 60.3mm and a sheet of three millimeters for the sections. A round tube with 17.2mm and a square tube with 20 by 10mm. And a round bar with a diameter of 12 mm and a large plate with a thickness of 5 mm. First we draw a 30 degree angle on the 80 by 80 square tube. There it is also cut off. So we have the section for the lower air chamber ready and continue with the pellet tank. Sign to 730mm length and then detach. From the front, another 50 mm is then marked and also cut off. Because I use a round tube instead of a square tube for the flame tube. I made a corresponding template, which I then work out. Then deburr the whole thing cleanly after working it out. After working out the opening for the round tube, I take the lower air chamber and drill the appropriate air channels into it. And the openings for the later air supply are also made in the flame tube. So the individual components are now complete. Air chamber, flame tube and the pellet tank. Of course, we also need the corresponding wings for the flame tube, which are now here in this version because we have a round flame tube, which is correspondingly more complicated to manufacture, they have many radii, so I also made templates for all four wings. The front and right wing are identical and the rear and left wing are slightly shortened accordingly. Next we cut off the ring for the upper glass holder, this is 23mm wide and is made from the 114mm round tube. The later cover for the flame tube is also cut out of the 114 mm round tube. In total, this is 270 mm long. I also made a template in the flame tube cover so that I can cut out the exact width of 80 millimeters. This means that it also fits really cleanly over the flame tube or on the 80 x 80 square tube afterwards, so that there really is no gap and it lies neatly on top. The hole for fastening to the flame tube cover is 180 mm lower from the top edge. Rounding off the edges of the flame tube cover is not necessary with my version, but it looks nicer. I also made a template for the lid of the pellet tank in order to get the cutouts more or less correct, round off the edges and so on... In addition, a small template for a corresponding handle that is incorporated into the lid . Of course, in order to be able to place the handle in the lid later, you have to work out a groove, since it is 3 mm sheet metal, simply drill with a three millimeter drill and file it, so that the handle can then be attached to it. I bend it around a bit because it just makes it a little more supple to touch and then knock the handle in and later it will be welded. From the small bolt we make the spacer bolt, which by the way is 23 mm long for attaching the flame tube cover. Accordingly, then cut an M8 thread so that an M8 screw will later hold the flame tube cover. Now I'm going to work on the base plate where later the fire torch will stand on it. That's five millimeters of sheet metal measuring 500 x 500 mm, the radii are 100 millimeters. Now I'm going to cut square tubes that are 250 millimeters long. And then I cut off a 15 degree angle on one. This will later be the top of the pellet tank. The 12mm round material is cut to a length of 80mm and we need two pieces of 20mm and one of 40mm from the 17.2mm tube . We cut them to size and of course deburr them afterwards. And now it comes welding was never my great strength, but everything that was cut out has to be fixed somehow. I decided to completely weld on the whole wings because I really don't trust my individual stitching here . It is important here that the wings have a distance of 20 mm to the upper edge of the flame tube , which really has to be adhered to very precisely, so I also drew a corresponding clean line where I can really lift the individual wings. Welding or a replica, you can all do it better. Can you all anyway better than me. For me the main thing is holding up and how it looks is another story. If you have tacked or welded the wings to the flame tube, then check whether the flame tube fits neatly into this cover so that nothing hacks anywhere. The bonnet itself is stapled to the hole on the pellet tank and I decided to weld the bonnet entirely from them. Then slide the flame tube cover over it again and then place this bolt - that's how I proceeded, I screwed in a screw from the outside and stapled it, remove the screw again, pull off the flame tube cover accordingly and then the bolt can also be stapled or welded. Now we place the stainless steel perforated plate on the underside of the pellet tank and staple it, then fold over the edge with a hammer and the excess is then simply separated again with the flex. So that the perforated plate fits properly, I helped a little with the clamp and was then able to fix it accordingly. The air chamber is now placed, which is 35 millimeters away from the front edge and is also stapled accordingly. After the tacking, the pellet tank is then welded cleanly to the perforated plate and the air chamber - what you can call so clean :) yes, that's why everything is sanded smooth again after welding, so you ca n't see my weld seam more. Next we make the hinge. To do this, weld the 5 mm bolt into the 20 mm tube at one end. Then weld everything on the other side, then grind everything together after welding and it's done. It is important that the middle part can still be rotated afterwards. So that the handle on the lid doesn't fall off, it is also welded and then sanded down. Next the small 150mm long pellet tank top piece is connected to the hinge where the 15 degree slant is. Then the lid is welded to the middle part of the hinge. Function test is important and then grind everything together, so I can then put the construct on the pellet tank and also weld it completely to the pellet tank and then grind the beautiful weld seams cleanly with the pellet tank again so that it also looks good. Now we come to the base plate where the other 150 mm piece is welded. Align it in the middle , put it in the angle and weld it, since my weld seams were beautiful here too , I had to sand everything down a bit. now the air chamber can be fixed on the base plate. by pinning. and then, of course, completely welded all around again. Those are the last weld seams that I still have to do here, so I was very happy after welding, of course, sanding everything together cleanly and polishing it up a bit and then I was ready for the first time. The 20 x 10mm square tube is cut at 15 degrees and is 260mm long. Is then welded to the pellet tank. On the other side we have a glass tube holder, which is aligned with the lower tube and also firmly welded. Of course I'll screw everything up again. Luckily those were really the last welds. Now the entire fire torch can be rubbed down with isopropanol. For the painting itself, I use a heat-resistant paint that is supposed to hold up to 800 degrees. I painted the underside first and then attached castors. They are from the old office chair. Work very well. The paint is very easy to work with, dries very quickly, is really touch-proof after ten minutes, but when the spray can is almost empty it tends to spatter, so there are really a few spatters on the surface. Therefore, shortly before it becomes empty, stop accordingly! After painting, we then apply a glass tape to the contact surfaces, where the glass tube could later come into contact with the metal. In order to be able to fix the glass fabric tape better , it is worth warming up the surfaces accordingly. I heated it there at 200 degrees and then glued the glass fabric tape on. This works very well, so it also holds up correspondingly well, don't forget the wings, which must also be covered with the glass trade tape so that the glass can be placed there afterwards. the glass tube itself is freed from the supplied O-ring which we do not need and pushed into the fire torch. Of course, I don't want to deprive you of firing the fire torch . Pellets the preferred food from the fire torch. These are then filled into the top of the funnel. You can see here with me based on the remains of ashes, this is not the first time that I have used the fire torch and to light it up I use a normal grill lighter which I light up with a piece of paper. Before the glass tube is pushed open, I let it burn for about two minutes. The moment when you push the glass tube over is interesting, which results in a real suction in the fire torch. I have now shown the minutes here as the flame develops over the next 20 to 22 minutes. So you can see here after ten minutes or twelve minutes we have not quite reached the upper ring and the suction is also correspondingly stronger and the flame really burns in the flame tube directly inside you, so you can see it very clearly and the first rotation also arises. You can't see any embers in the air chamber, the flame then continues to rise and in the combustion chamber after about 20 minutes the embers slowly come through. After 22 minutes we have complete penetration and then there is such a moment where the flame from the bottom of the flame tube jumps over the flame tube and it is exactly this moment where a little bit of gas develops and the flame then no longer burns in the flame tube itself but over the flame tube and that is the moment after 22 minutes when the loud noise practically disappears and everything becomes relatively quiet. You can see here that the flame is now burning cleanly over the flame tube and there is a very, very nice rotation of the flame. Of course it is much easier to see in the dark, now a few impressions of how the flame burns in the flame tube. There will surely come a moment when the flame sinks back down a bit, so say when it reaches the ring that I have to poke around at the sign below a bit just to bring the flame back to life. I'd say it could be because the pellets don't slide down cleanly or because there is so much ash. At some point the torch goes out again, you can see very nicely how the combustion chamber is glowing and so you can see the rest of the ashes the next day, what is left. The glass tube itself also has deposits after each use, which I clean with normal oven spray. Spray it in briefly, let it soak in for a bit, I have a little sponge on my stick and I use it to clean up, then rinse with water and then everything is clean again. Then I would like to thank you for watching and have a look at Oliver Möll's website, where you can find out more about the Feuertorch.
