Build a Quiet Mobile Small Shop Cyclone Dust Collector

well dust collector I built back in 2010 finally died on me it took eight years of abuse but it had one of those desk where you're using the thing you're on the tool you hear it wind up and then one slowly one down Koff had the death rattle than a puff of smoke you smell burnt wires the kind of death where you unplug it right there and take it to the dumpster and I'm pretty sure that shopback lasted me eight years though in the back of my mind I kind of remember maybe replacing it with the same exact model halfway through the way I use dust collectors in this shop is abusive for a shopback I mean I really will turn it on in the morning and it doesn't get turned off except for emptying or changing to a different machine and when I'm running my CNC machine a lot of those carbs are five six seven hours I literally turn it on in the morning run three or four cards before I turn it off I mean it's just running constantly I really do need a good quality dust collector in this shop now I've been woodworking very seriously for over twenty years now it's not a temporary hobby for me I recognize that I'm going to be making stuff like this for the rest of my life and when I came to that realization I made a decision that I was going to stop buying consumable kind of stuff or stuff that I know it's just a temporary step into in order to get me something I'm going to have more permanently from now on everything I make for the shop or buy for the shop I want to be of quality good equipment of quality that I'm gonna pass it on and in the back of my mind when this thing died it was kind of I need to build a decent dust collector for not only my shop now but how I will progress in the future and my thing our dust collection is I'm never going to have a giant cabinet shop I do not need you spend five six seven thousand dollars for a giant cyclone in the side of the shop or outside the shop with tubes going everywhere my goal is I'd like to have it nine eight inch jointer a nice cabinet saw I have a small drum sander my bandsaw those kinds of power tools don't need the huge volume or CFM that those giant cyclones do the reason why you get those things is so you can have one machine one spot to end collect all the sawdust and it has enough horsepower for all those piping well if I just have a few machines I could just have a dust collector really close to that machine a small inexpensive one but a high enough quality that I know it will outlast me so that was my goal is I don't want to just replace this shop back for my entire setup plus the fact I'm now acquiring machines where this just ain't good enough so that kind of set my goals here a I wanted a machine that would handle all the machines I have now and any I plan on getting in the future and I don't mind moving it the hose from one machine to the other at this point in time I don't need them all to be connected at the same time with glass dates and stuff like that because that just lowers CFM it requires but it it requires that bigger outdoor cyclone and speaking of cyclones it has to be a cyclone that little dust deputy well right here I have a video where at the end in the bonus I did a tool review of that thing after seven years of use it really is one of my favorite tools in my shop because it works so well granted cyclones reduce a suction a little bit but not enough to matter and not enough over the long term because it maintains a suction at half better than even that Dyson hat and the final thing I needed it to be quiet I am so sick of having to have ear protection on all day long so with those goals in minds I started doing a lot of research as far as the cyclone I knew I needed something that would handle a 4-inch pork because most of the machines that I'm kind of dreaming about for my shop are the size that we're four inches are going to be used and for that Oneida really earned their loyalty from me with that inexpensive dust deputy and how well it works and also how all the other people talk about that done comparisons that have owned multiple different setups they all say it's a great product so I went with it basically their smallest setup for a 4 inch pork they're super dust deputy and this setup came with a 17 gallon barrel which is three times what I had right there will be perfect for what I want to do and then for power I did a lot of research on this one and most of the time I came back to that one horsepower plus or minus range there's the simple dust collectors with those big bags you see on them you can get them at Harbor Freight pretty much everyone makes some version I ended up choosing the dust right system from Rockler for a couple main reasons everybody that's had the originals one of these that kind of golden yellowish one they all really complimented on it the build quality and it accomplished it what they need now this is a three-quarter horsepower one a lot of them out there seen being the one to one and a half horsepower but the key thing is you don't really care about the horsepower all we were I couldn't care about is a CFM that cubic feet per minute of air can suck through and I don't know if you see impeller design or what about it but this has a higher than normal in its class CFM and more importantly it's way more than I for any one given machined I'm looking at its about 650 675 I think is what they advertised I have no way of verifying you but if it's even close to that it's okay and assuming that with a cyclone you're going to be losing a little bit and with whatever curving of pipe going the longer the pipe the more you're going to be losing I'm going to be able to bring my dust collector to the machines so the pressure can be fairly short and most of my machines that I want to have they require you know 250 CFM up to maybe 500 CFM and not much more than that so even if there's a little bit of loss on this that's more than enough for all the machines I'm dreaming about but here was the kicker everyone I saw reviews on all the facts I saw in their spec sheets this thing's was quite a bit quieter than all the competition so even if the CFM was comparable to everybody else and it had the lower horsepower the fact that it was quieter meaning I might be able to rig up something so I could turn it on and not need hearing protection that was it for me now I did all my research I chose these items and I don't know if you want to call this a fully sponsored video but at that point in time I did reach out to both of these companies from past contacts with them and I told them what I want to do and both of them sent me these items with me Rapha even sent me some casters and a little hose kit to go along with it so I guess technically you could call this my very first sponsored video they did send these to me for free but I reached out to them after choosing them I was prepared to spend my own money on them so I think well that's kind of how you always do it anyways you do your research you choose what you want and then you acquire it so the rest of this video is gonna be a build video it's gonna be a lot mainly voiceover because I'm going to have the CMC in the background you don't wanna be listening to that one and at the end I will review the setup and I would tell you why I ended also buying another shop back but how effective was I in my build I'm getting it quiet let me show you that the finished build is now running you see how white that is is that not the coolest I can talk I can listen I don't need dust reflection I can have a hose right in front of my lane now collecting all the sawdust coming off with a bushels this is gonna be cool so come along let's build us a desk writing system everybody finds a method of pre-planning or coming up with your design that they feel comfortable with and I am definitely more on the design side than making planned side yes I will take certain critical measurements if I'm building a table it's got to be a certain length a certain height to be comfortable or a cabinet might need to fit in a certain space in this application I just need to fit the components into my contraption of whatever it is so those are the really the only measurements I actually do here everything else is based upon the size and more importantly the order I build my project in I spend a lot of my pre thinking time not only thinking about the joinery what I want to look like but the sequence of events in the build so that I can build these things based upon the size of the other component it's kind of relative to the next step and from there I like to go to my whiteboard because it's big and it's easy erase stuff I can make a lot of messes and I might throw up a couple of different plans I mean each one only takes a few minutes to think through from there I'll come up with a design I really do like and I'll put it in my design book and I really think it out draw the joinery all that kind of stuff to make sure at the end I'm gonna be happy with the way it looks now it's a common theme in my shop that I'm gonna use solid wood mainly southern yellow pine because it's this construction lumber and it's the cheapest solid material you can get and while it is construction lumber you can get nice straight quarter sawn or bachelors sewn grain just depending upon how you select the wood making sure you have straight grain from the from the store I don't really worry about cupping too much because I'm going to be processing it just as if I had bought six quarter material from a lumberyard the key thing is I like to buy stuff as close to the center of the tree as possible and then just cut out that Center cuz it might have some cracking in it that's where most of your cupping is going to come from it's the outside of that that's going to be so stable and a lot of people you know they make comments that why are you wasting time maybe using solid wood for you know a shop appliance I mean this is just gonna be beat up and destroyed and I keep coming back to this I do that I want to learn I enjoyed this craft and what better low risk project is there to learn on than shop equipment now in this build I want to revisit some old joinery that I did you could see a good example of it in my build a table in the day video but I also want to try some new techniques in tool setup to layout processing and stuff that can compare and contrast on what I know I can do it's gonna end up in the same way I mean there's three or four ways you can cut any kind of joint but this gives me the chance to practice and learn where else is that going to happen and that to me is I'm in talent II that if you're not a high production woodworker you've got to take yes the project might take you a little bit longer to complete but in the end you're gonna gain a lot more from it that you can apply to the more important stuff the stuff you want to sell the stuff you want to give to your family the stuff you're actually going to be proud of this it's just a learning opportunity and it's gonna make something that'll get the job done on project this size I tend to mill up the material for whatever section I'm working on and that journey starts at the jointer and progresses to add whatever mate that is so on the if I did an edge I'd go to the table saw and that makes those two slides parallel if I did a face I'd then go to the thickness planer and that would make those two sides parallel technically you're supposed to start out on the face but this was flat enough to begin with there and the reason why I do it per section is because remember I designed to I build to a design not planned I'm not really concerned with getting perfect measurements unless it's critical for the overall project I just want each sections to be consistent so all my base being the same all my legs being the same thickness that way everything's just very easy to level out plus milling up on what you're going to be using in the section that you're able to finish building in a certain time frame kind of gives you a sense of completion you've done that step for example right here I'm starting on building the base frame for the entire project and because they are all consistent I can take my measurements directly from the piece totally ignoring the ruler and right here I'm just taking the width so that I can get the depth of a bridle joint and this entire project is going to be using lap joints bridle joints and finger joints as I mentioned earlier I'm revisiting all joints that I know how to cut but experimenting with new techniques here I'm cutting out the faces on what's gonna end up as a broader joint and all I did was I made sure that my bandsaw was at 90 degrees use my marking gauge to take the width of the board and Mark it out for the depth of the cut and then just eyeballed 1/3 as long as I flipped the board those two cuts would be centered I could then take that base line that I marked out with a marking gauge go to my table saw and eyeball where to cut the end from there I can take the piece I actually cut out and just move my fence over on the bandsaw a tad bit in order to compensate for its kerf how do I do that I literally use my finger as I move the fence back and forth until I got the kerf at the exact right spot and there's just a matter of sawing and flipping to remove the center section notice because I set the fence up so I could cut on the far side and still the near side that allowed me room that I could cut down the middle in order to remove the waste and simply curve it a little bit to cut out each side flip it you cut out the other side and in essence I'm using the bandsaw just as I would a coping saw and a hand to a wall to get rid of the majority of the waste so I could then chisel it down to the baseline and get a perfect interior face for this broader joint and I hope that's something you know throughout the rest of this video that the tonight techniques I'm experimenting with and practicing with is using power tools much in the way I use a hand tool and most of the time it's making these settings on the machines based off the dimensions of the other parts just as it would be using my fingers on a hand saw I'm making a cut when you work this way it's amazing how little cleanup there is because just like when you're using hand tools basically you're splitting the line taking a line leaving a line so most of the time that just leaves you a tad bit to flush two parts together at this point I added the caster supplied by rockler because their screws would be a further reinforcement of the joints in the corner bending was a matter of returning to the bandsaw the miter saw the jointer the table saw and the thickness planer to mill up all the material I would use to create the I joined or the cross being on this base frame except instead using a bridle joint I would use a finger joint this time all the same techniques all the same tools except this time it's all done on the face instead of the edge the one difference being on one of the short edges I cut off the distance of one of the fingers and then used a nail and a ruler to create a art that came down to the height of the bottom finger that way it would be flush in a future step I then smoothed out it out made the curve nice using some spokes I will say later on down the road I reversed this section because I didn't liked how it was turning out it wasn't working the way I wanted to but we'll get to that later now gluing and attaching this frame to the base is critical for the entire design because having the glued and screwed together will create a very strong frame that can handle a lot of weight it's basically a portion of an i-beam it'll also give a lot of face value for glue and screws to attach the upper carcass and to attach those screws I placed the frame on there drew the pencil line in the center so that I would know where it would go back once everything's aligned then I spent 30 seconds and created a quick screwing jig something that would tell me where the exact center of the board would be and I didn't have to do more layout lines then it was just a matter of laying down a bead of glue and screwing it down using the screws as both clamps and reinforcements to add strength and please notice that I screwed the opposite corners first this just reduced the chance that it might shift I was screwing all the way around which happens a lot of times if you go clockwise or counter clockwise in order now after that it was just a little cosmetic touch-ups because once I was done with this I was gonna be done with it that's the advantage of building in sections designing in sections so I just wanted to do a little bit and make pretty round over edges and stuff like that unfortunately I trusted a ruler at some point in time so when I went to test out the barrel I found out it was a quarter inch too small I'm not sure where the error was I shouldn't had use a ruler at all in the beginning I should just take a measurements directly off of placing boards but on the side but live and learn either way had to make a pick quick fix into twos oh I was just going to take advantage of the weakness of the wood something you do over and over and over simply by separating the fibers in multiple areas it would make it real easy to chop out the waste going with the grain you're basically splitting off what you don't need and then cleaning it up with a gouge chisel or sandpaper now to create the slats for the barrel to rest on I went back to that center section that cut out all those boards I was basically scrapped and dimension them down to about an inch just enough that they would sit flush with the bed and then I could screw them into that integrated rail that created by placing that Eyebeam portion in the middle with some overlap on both sides the outside basically created a bumper and the inside created the ledge that's going to transfer all the weight of this entire contraption down to the wheels in an orderly manner now even though these scrap pieces were all different sizes I wanted them to look orderly so I use a speed square to create spacing in between them and I use my dividers to create an equal distance between the screws after that it was back to the machines to dimension more lumber to start on the uprights and I took particular care to balance the grain on these upright so that they would look good they would look like they were out of a solid piece but they're actually going to be mitered all right I cut a 45 on the long side of all the boards so that when I glued them together they would form an L now gluing these together was a little bit difficult for me because I don't have any clamps I would work this way but I do have gravity and simply lifting them up pressing glue down on them and letting gravity spread the board's out onto a certain point I have been using my clamps to stop it at that point will allow me to get a good face-to-face surface glue bond was a perfectly gap-free now that's good enough of what we were doing here and on the one board that I saw a gap fright right from the get-go and the gluing I simply held them together with my hands for about two minutes and that was good enough set the rest of it aside for five minutes take it out of that clamp for an hour or so and then continue work now the key to these uprights really being secure and transferring all the weight that they're going to be carrying down to the frame is the half lap and you can't trust a ruler when you're marking these out go ahead and take it directly off of the piece that way all you have to do is line up your saw blade so it leaves the line it doesn't take it away and then bandsaw off those cheeks it should be able to rest perfectly on both the ledge and the upright and once you've got that set do all the legs the same way except for the two fronts on those I only did a lap joint on one side and you'll see why later on from there we're going to progress to an upper and center frame in the combination of a top middle and bottom frame for the uprights we'll create an incredibly strong tower that should be able to hold all the way to the machinery and the cyclone because that middle frame will be cantilevered to hold the weight up of the cyclone itself but because I don't want to mess with rulers I'm just gonna take the measurements directly off of the piece making sure that both the middle and the upright the short sections are all the same size and that the long sections only the mid middle ones are going to cantilever off oh and as you go along don't forget to pick out which side of every board is going to be your show side and once I've gotten to this middle and upper frames it's getting more critical that I get the exact corners right so I'll go ahead and label them why is this is because it determines which is going to have n grain and long grain showing and you'll understand that in a few seconds but by simply taking off the measurements directly from the pieces it sure does make the tool set up quite easily since I cut out that central finger by flipping the bandsaw from one to the other so it was equal distance I really only had to mark one of them in order to set the bandsaw up to take the corresponding fingers I really am finding in this project using hand tool techniques with the power tools really sped me up especially because I'm only building one project I'm not setting jigs up to repeat the same cuts over and over and over again it's that mark line sort of the line hand tool mentality as nowhere more important than when you see me do this central Morison tenon joint this is the hand tool method I lave it out to where I want it to be I marked a quick 90 degree reference and then using this piece of stock that's going to go through the board itself line everything up I got one side put my knife down on the other side and guess what I have I now have that perfect measurement before the mortise fitted to the tenon now it's just a matter of transferring it around to the other side which a nickel one corner allows me to do to find the width of it or the height of it hence my right off the piece can't get easier than that henkle techniques a lot of times comes down to simply Leng stuff out in a slightly different manner there is no need to use a ruler if you don't have to now to cut out the mortise I like to use my chisel to break the fibers all the way around especially in pine like this if I don't do that when I find a good tendency they will chip out on the pretty stuff I want to keep from there it's just a matter of removing the material it's quite easy to do that one if I drill a small hole in the corners because there's always the corners that I have difficult with and I'll draw halfway down from each side and then it's a matter of using the chisel the bevel is the direction you want to go and if you notice the first strike doesn't go down too far but each subsequent strike goes down a little bit farther that's because the waste the wood now has an escape path on the first strike all you're really doing is compressing the fibers on the second strike it can ride that bevel down kind of like a ramp but the wood now has a place to go so you can go deeper and deeper and deeper each time and that last strike basically you're compressing the fibers making a space for the next pass to go deeper do that one throw both sides and then clean up the edges and you have your nice hand to a mortise really is pretty simple and quick especially because you don't have machine setups with that Center cantilever frame built now it's just a matter of transferring a mark on where I want it on the uprights and I wanted it in line with the top of the canister the top of the barrel except maybe an inch higher from there it's just the same process except instead using a lot of cuts of the dado I just ran it over the my table saw blade quite a bit a little bit low and then used my router plane to make it dead-on level perfect it didn't have to be perfectly flat in that section because that is gonna be inside the wood and nobody but Superman has x-ray vision last step on these uprights was to add a groove so I could put some panels in there to hide the motor and most importantly contain all its noise now to finish up the central stack I had to add panels into it and to do that one I just used up the last of the scrap that part of the board's that I couldn't used for anything structural because they might warp or twist or something like that I cut them in half and then planed them all down to whatever thickness would fit in the grooves I put on that board on the first one I glued the bottom and left there at 90 degrees all the other subsequent boards I cut it half of 45 I guess it's 22 and a half degrees and left a gap in between each one of the boards as I in there I put a little glue on one end dropped a bunch of rulers down there to create a consistent gap and then nailed the top to act as a clamp until that would drive this way the wood could expand and contract be anchored by the glue but the nail would kind of wiggle around the end result as I had these panels with a small gap but because of the angle I cut he couldn't see through them to the inside light wouldn't show through and he used up that Cathedral raid scrap wood I had once I finished the top half of the panels I attached the top frame glued and screwed it down then picked up the whole thing so that I could do the bottom half notice on the top I did leave one side open because that's where I'm going to install a door for easy access to the on/off button and to be able to empty the bag every year - now it's starting to look like something doesn't well in order to block a little bit more sound I didn't want to line the interior with something I had some thick cardboard on hand so let's say using the pink stuff from the big-box store I was gonna try this staples will hold it in and on top of that on one side I cut down an OS B sheet and that will be what holds up the motor on the interior I did have to remove the handle on the motor in order to make it fit and unfortunately the screws that they use to attach a handle go into the body so if you leave the screws out there's a hole that's gonna be a vacuum leak if you leave them in there's a chance that the screws could screw themselves and through with vibration and hit the impeller so my solution was to put the screws back in but put some hot glue on the outside so hopefully that will prevent them from screwing themselves in well I mentioned earlier in the video that I was gonna end up changing that low curved upright piece on the base and it was just that I didn't like the setup I had for raising and lowering the canister up to the dust cyclone so what I ended up doing is switching to a simple panel which means I had to remove that curved one front section it was a really simple job just solve the joint and because I didn't have that much glue and I thought that this might happen so I didn't screw this front section down it just popped right off along the glue line and I could use a card scraper to stand it out this also meant I needed to extend that cut out I did because that original miss measurement somewhere but this was really super easy simple saw cut to establish the line and chisel off what I didn't really need no big deal the last step for the main tower was cutting a hole for the desk hose and I'd simply drilled a hole right in the center of where it was and using this pair dividers marked out a hole that was a little bit more than four inches remember when you're using dividers always rotate them in a manner where the grain will push the legs out because in some directions it'll actually want to compress them thus making your circle a little bit off from there I just put it made a little four inch cut out and use my router with a flush trim bit to get a perfect little over four inch hole now the last two wooden parts I needed to make for this was the top and the door and both of those I just did a bridal joint with the same waste wood panel in the middle but I gotta admit I I kind of reverted in my always I didn't want spend time setting up a router table so I just really quickly grabbed my router plane to put the groove in all them but when you work this way you got to take into consideration that you made a groove through the whole board on all four pieces of either the panel or the door meaning there is a cutout now assuming a bridal joint has one board that's the ten ends and one boards that's a mortise the Tenon's are going to be the exact same just use them width of the board but the mortise you gotta use the width of the board - that grew that way you'll get nice smooth fit from there I just put some little cleats on the top and I used hide glue to attach it just in case I ever want to replace this motor or upgrade it I can heat it up to remove it and on the door I put a simple swivel latch no big deal just using up scraps and I didn't want to pay for a metal one there we go a cyclone for a small woodshop not much money I probably have forty to fifty dollars in wood plus those components the entire cyclone setup is actually anchored off of this cantilevered ledge and because I've got it laughs joining in there all the pressures going down right here yeah I were to come over here put my 300-pound butt on this edge it's not going down it might want to lift up this back corner but that's screwed and glued so it's a solid set up all the way around I have some blue tape right here I've got some of that ducking tape on order and the extendable hose works out really really well this is from Rockler and they got kits so that they all match up together and this will fit on any four inch hose some details you might have missed in the build in the planning stages this through Morrison tan joint became the most critical one because I faced all the finger joints off of that one so that from the very bottom to the top it would alternate long grain in grain long grain in grain long grain and grain long grain in grain all the way up they rotate every single piece also you'll notice that the parts that diminish over time this distance is a little bit longer than this distance but this distance right here is the same as that distance try to keep the ratios pretty close the door mechanism works it's flat because it's flush right here and I wanted the lever on the door because if I ever torque this off and break this it's easier to replay this door and having to replace the leg itself and that was just scrap wood I mean not much money except for the screws involved on the inside to turn it on and off it's a quick switch right there the power cable runs down below and remember the whole bottom is open so even when that bag fills up it's not touching any of the edges so if air can go out of that bag and it just goes straight down now I have started using this before I film this closing and I've run probably one and a half canisters of shavings off my jointer through this machine right now and even after all that there are no heavy shavings on the inside you can look through this glass right here and I even shot a video of me actually working it the heavy stuff doesn't make it through I fully anticipate some of the more finer articles to go through the whole system and end up in here which means that every now and then I might have to come out and sit and shake some cake so I'll fall down but I don't actually anticipate having to empty that thing very often but if I do you just unlatch it right here and just pull the whole thing out all right what's nice is I've got to sit up so that the clear section is right there so every time I turn it on in or off I can actually check it to make sure that there's nothing really in there it should be pretty efficient that way to empty the canister I've got a little edge right here and really this doesn't do that much cuz all the weights actually being supported by this cantilever but it makes getting the canister up a little bit easier then come over drop off the last that drops down pull it out to reattach it all I gotta do is come over lift it up right there it's not heavy heavy when it's empty drop this little edge right on top make sure it stays on top there you go it's already secured then reattach the ring easy-peasy one aspect of the design that could probably be improved if you're building one of these on is some way to get this curve a little bit more gently maybe I could just put a piece of wood right here to prop it up right there but right now that's probably reduced down to about three and a half inches right there but either way it's really working well now during this build I kind of cheated a little bit and I started using just the rocker dust right and the bag by itself on the machines and boy did that open my eyes up my jointer is always I've never had a dust collector that would work on so it's tough just fell down it was constantly clogging up you stick a stick underneath it to knock stuff down it's because I use straight blades that makes those really long shavings and when I first time I started this up right here it was collecting all of that stuff it wasn't clogging up you stayed clean over there and the cut seemed to be a lot better because a lot of shavings weren't popping up on the table propping up the wood but within a few minutes the dust collector clogged up because the inlet has this safety grill so nothing big will go in and hit the impeller and those long spiral shavings kind of lock together like spaghetti and just plug it up so when I was using just the rocker set up with the bag straight to the jointer it would work for a few minutes and clog up I got to unclog it it would work for a few minutes but I saw the potential once I had the separator in here and once again I used it for about a canister and a half doing other stuff once I had this here hadn't clogged up any now if you're just using the rocker set by itself if you have those carbide tip ones they take a lot thinner shavings I don't think you'll have that problem the other thing that was a huge disappointment was when I was using the rocker set up by itself on things like my bandsaw my table saw in my chop saw it was almost as this I had no dust collection at all now this might be shocking for you but my bandsaw my chop saw and my jobsite saw all use a little 2 inch port they're designed for that one so does you know my palm Sanders all my hand power tools they all have much smaller port and when I took the adjuster that was recommended and you put that on there clamp it on so that you can use your 4 inch you know in my mind I'm thinking well 4 inches is going to go up a lot more volume so it will take care of this one so I could use that really nice dust collector on stuff like this no the problem is once you get down to the sides there's so much restriction there it's kind of like holding your finger over a hose you want the speed and you want the pressure and that's what makes this kind of set of work it's shocking but they designed it to work with a shopback kind of setup this might have 650 CFM my shop vac might only have a hundred and fifty maybe a hundred and seventy-five but when I put my hand over the end of my dust collector and feel the pressure after I clogged it all up it's nowhere near the amount of pressure my shop that can get when I put my hand here it's that pressure that no matter what the restriction is that gets us sawdust coming in same with my chop saw same with my jobsite saw so those machines are actually designed for a lesser quality dust collector but when I was using this one the way I found it to work best was to not even use this port I actually used some velcro and just put the giant section right here and it worked pretty good because of the volume of air they was sucking in was bringing in all that smaller sawdust but because it works so poorly on this thing that's why I ended up going at and go ahead and investing in another shop back more money now this is my latest - acquisition and when I got it I only had a shop back so I bought this adapter when he went right on the 4-h porch and it worked okay but I could still tell there was a lot of dust collecting on the inside I had a lot of dust on the outside lot of dust on the bed all that kind of stuff and I didn't really realize how much that little bit of dust was affecting the performance of this machine it was designed for a lot more than the 150 175 CFM now the first time I put that rocker set up with just a bag on this one right here it opened up my eyes the potential I was not getting dust on the bed but the sandpaper was saying a lot clearer I wasn't having to clean it as much he was just better all around the performance was just so much better because it was getting rid of so much more dust that combined with my results on the bandsaw and chops on stuff like that kind of opened up my eyes that hey they engineered it with a four inch port is probably going to need a dust collector to work properly they engineered it with a two inch port or smaller you can probably get away with a shop vac and the added pressure might even make it work a little bit better so with a set of tools I have right now I kind of needed both the shop vac and a dust collector in order to progress to where I want my shop to be in the future I am really happy now that I've built this especially I've had after I've put it through his paces a little bit I actually see that in this shop I'm probably going to park it over in the corner and just lock the casters because the the tube I had is long enough I can stretch up multiple machines fairly easily but as my shelf grows and expands I can actually see this may be sitting in between a thickness planer on one side and like jointer on the other and handling all those long shavings coming in through the canister this would be the perfect amount of CFM with a very short hose to handle both of those I might be able to do it a whole different setup over by the table saw or maybe because the table saw makes those thicker chips I could get away with just a bag underneath one of those ledges with a dust collector like this just having an inexpensive dust collector big enough to handle the CFM requirements for each machine really close to it seems like a lot more economical option though get the same amount performance plus I wouldn't have to have all those piping's and stuff like that which since I rent is a big deal well I hope you enjoyed this video if you did please like favorite subscribe do all those social medias visit my website worth effort com where I have lots of different ways you can help support us and I want you to remember one last thing on bills like this it is always worth the effort to learn as you create so you can share with others y'all be safe and have fun

Channel: wortheffort

Views: 391,894

Rating: 4.7432361 out of 5

Keywords: wortheffort, woodworking, oneida, rockler, dust deputy, super dust deputy, dust right, dustright, cyclone, seperator, basic, piping, dust collector, collector, collection, simple, shop, appliance, lap joint, bridle joint, joint, bridle, finger, finger joint, syp, pine, southern yellow pine, furniture, table, cabinet

Id: Q3RuV38kFXo

Length: 44min 57sec (2697 seconds)

Published: Fri Oct 12 2018