Ferrari F430- A 50hr Preservation Detail + (Paint Touchup & Correction) (Vlog 18)

[Music] hey guys it's Sandra here with quite a lengthy video today on this beautiful Ferrari f430 [Music] now I'm not going to talk over the entire video as much of the detailing process is self-explanatory but I will be jumping in with some audio throughout this video as it's appropriate to explain certain aspects of the detailing process and the outcome I'm trying to achieve I'll also be displaying some text on screen at various intervals and as usual I'll have quite a comprehensive list of the products used in this video in the description box but to start with I think it's important to put this job into context and now I constantly say every job is different but it's especially true with this f430 you'll notice that are called this video a preservation detail rather than a restoration detail so when my main goal is to usually get the paint as perfect as possible this detail is going to be a more respectful job when my main goal is to remove as little paint as possible and find that balance of defect removal versus preserving as much clear code as I can in the process you'll also see once the car is in the paint correction Bay that the majority of the work in this whole detail is going to be touching up and refining stone chips I'll talk a little more about that later on as well as why the car was specifically brought to me and a ridiculous issue that the owner was confronted with there honestly got me a little worked up but for now I'll keep my sweet voice silent and hopefully you guys will enjoy all the hard work that went into making this feature-length video which I lastly add that the actual detail on this car was about 50 hours work while producing this video was well over a hundred hours work just to put things into perspective [Music] [Music] [Music] [Laughter] [Music] during the pre-inspection walk-around my initial assessment was that the paint does need quite a bit of work but I'm sure you also notice that the car is fairly clean now I know it's far better to have a dirtier car when showing the wash and decontamination stages on video to get a clear visual indication why the surface preparation step is so vital but the truth is that it doesn't really matter whether the car is brought to me in a clean or filthy state as this process isn't so much about removing obvious looser dirt or grime but rather about stripping the paint and trims of all the heart to see accumulation of foreign matter such as iron fallout specs of Road tar caked on mineral deposits and any existing waxes or sealants so although I know it's a lot more visually satisfying to start with a really dirty car the truth is that the surface dirt is the least of my concerns and the easiest thing to remove but the harder to see contaminants is where the real work comes in [Music] [Applause] [Music] you [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so let's talk a little about wire punish myself with such a long and time-consuming decontamination process what is necessary and unnecessary in relation to your process and methods or depends on the ultimate goal and outcome as well as the car you presented with and quite honestly this is the hardest thing to explain in any detailing video as it's not something you can just list in point form but rather something you need to learn to adapt to each particular job so let's look at what potentially happens down the track in this detailing job if I don't achieve my goal of safely yet effectively decontaminating this car one obvious thing that will happen if I don't use a safe process is that I'm gonna further damage the paint pre-soak foams thorough pressure rinses brushing out trims and safe hand wash methods as well as using chemical I entire and mineral deposit removers before or during the claim process all massively decreases the damage you will inflict on the paint as well as increase the effectiveness of stripping the surfaces and why do I care about these factors because the more damage that is inflicted during those stages the more paint or clear coat I'm going to have to remove during the paint correction process but just as important all of the iron tar and mineral deposits I don't remove during this stage are going to either stay in place and compromise the finish and durability of the paint protection process in the last stage or get lodged into my polishing pads during the next paint correction stage and further inflict damage on the paint making my life and this job so much harder as well as requiring me to further compound and polish the paint removing more clear coat than is necessary and lastly on this point I'm not saying that every job has to be done this way as when I was mobile detailing I just didn't have the time or budget to do everything as I wanted to but I am saying that given the time and finances there is real merit and justification as to why this whole surface preparation stage is so vital to get right [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so with all the decontamination stages complete I want to now get into this particular job and car as every car has its own story and every car owner has a goal in mind when the car is brought to me sometimes it's a brand new car and all they want is to have a well protected to get a great resale value in two or three years or it might be a recently bought secondhand car that's been abused in the past and they want the pain restored so they can really enjoy it other times it's a car our owner has had for years and might be passing it on to their kids and so on now in the case of this Ferrari this isn't your typical locked away and rarely driven Ferrari but rather a supercar that's been extensively driven with the odometer reading to prove it secondly this full manual version of the f430 is not only extremely rare at least here in Australia but also one of the last stick shift cars Ferrari ever made and most likely will ever make again now without getting into too much detail this car is going to be sold to go towards a new Ferrari that the owner is purchasing to once again truly Drive and enjoy it as this one was and it is not into just storing exotic cars for investment or display the very intent on driving them he wishes to pass this car on to the next owner that will also hopefully care for it but just as importantly drive it and enjoy it as it is and as Ferrari originally intended I mentioned earlier that there was an issue the owner was faced with that honestly got me a little upset now as you'll see there is gonna be quite a bit of stone chip touch-up work on my part which is partly on the bottom of the car but mostly on the front bumper and really nowhere else now I can certainly understand a dealership wanting to repaint the front bumper from a resale perspective but the thing that was totally ridiculous in any sane person's mind was that the dealership he intended on trading this Ferrari too told him that the entire car would need to be repainted as all the paint was just beyond salvation now as you'll see the paint on this 430 is well within paint correction parameters as well as being all original and there is also a healthy amount of clear coat making it the ideal candidate for a very successful paint correction outcome but once I got the complete story of how that same dealership went on to devalue this car by more than $70,000 - apparently pay for the Ferrari certified paint job that clearly wasn't needed I then understood that they were just looking to rip off this nice decent guy and make a lot of money for themselves on the resale I know the dealerships do have a tough time in the public's eye but it's just disgusting things like this that give them that reputation of being self-serving dishonest scumbags [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] [Music] so after having a better look at the paint once it was all clean and bare and undermined defect spotting lights in the correction Bay it was fairly clear that it needed quite a bit of work to bring it back to its somewhat original state the main defects apart from the stone chips on the front end were a uniform layer of swirls and scratches oxidation and quite a lot of water spots but to say that the paint is beyond redemption is absolutely absurd as I've had many cars with far worse paint damage than this come up almost perfectly if not better than brand-new and after measuring the paint which gave me a nice uniform rating confirming that the paint was in fact all original and with an average rating of about a hundred and seventy-five microns which was quite a healthy amount of clear coat at that now I'm going to be starting with the front end of the Ferrari as that's where the bulk of my work is going to be touching up and refining the stone chips some of you guys may have seen my previous video on how to correctly touch-up stone chips in which I use this cars bonnet to go through that process in an instructional video in this video I'm going to show that process as well but focus more on why rather than how so you can get the whole picture on the appropriateness and goal of this process as well as a better feel for just how time-consuming it really is but before I can get to clearly identifying all the stone chips I need to address I have to firstly correct the majority of the defects on each of these front panels as right now or the swirls scratch oxidation and water spots are hiding those stone chips and you see that once I work out my combination of pad compounds and technique and correct the panel to just a reasonable level all those stone chips are going to clearly pop out is they no longer have anywhere to hide amongst all the defects [Music] so after trying a few different combinations of foam pads with light to medium compounds and polishes you'll see that the winning combination for this particular job and my particular goal will show concepts s20 black compounds on the lake country orange foam hto pad now to jump forward a little bit you'll see me using the yellow rivers wall pad in certain areas that did require a little more car and you'll also see me using the lake country black h2o foam pads which was due to crazy hot weather over a couple of days here it turns out that this paint was definitely on the softer side but when I did my initial testing the temperature was somewhere in the high 20s to low 30s Celsius however over a couple of days during this detail it got to 40 degrees and above and that same combination just wasn't finishing well at all and kept on hazing the finish no matter what I tried with my technique so to adapt to those horribly hot and humid days I had to do a second follow up stage with a less aggressive combination to get the same quality of finish it worked out well in the end but just took a little longer with a lighter approach to get there one other thing that doesn't in mentioning and that you'll see quite clearly after the paint is corrected is a lot of deep pinhole like defects that are sometimes attributed to solve and pop in the finish but also mixed in with some lighter tiny bug or stone dents that didn't quite chip the paint in my experience with just about every Ferrari I've done that's more than five years old it's almost a trademark or Ferrari paint but certainly not just exclusively on Ferraris the other interesting thing is that it's almost always just on the front bonnet as is the case here and not on the roof or other panels so if it really was just solve and pop from layering paint too quickly before the solvents can escape then I'd expect to see it on the other panels as well but that's never the case now it is actually possible to largely reduce those pinhole defects if not almost entirely remove them but the trade-off is that you do really need to cut the paint back quite aggressively to do so thus meaning that a decent amount of clear coat has to be removed and sacrificed trust me when I tell you that I really did consider doing just that because it's hard to get a fantastic result with all the touch-up and correction work but see there's horrible pinholes in the finish however as I mentioned before this is a preservation detail we're maintaining as much clear coat as possible is the main goal and are they chopping this paint back would definitely improve the quality of outcome especially in the front end it would also massively reduce the option for further correcting this paint in the future as I mentioned earlier this 12 year old f430 has been thoroughly driven and enjoyed so chances are it's not going to sit in an investor's or collectors glass dome as collectors are genuinely interested in low mileage and barely used cars chances are that the person who buys this car will drive it and user and will need to be corrected again in the future and honestly I hope that that's the life this car has there were a few comments in the touch-up video I did on this Ferrari that basically said it was a waste spending all that time touching up and refining the stone chips as it will be cheaper and quicker just to repaint the panel's they'll actually write that it would be quicker to repaint the panels and unless you take it to an authorized Ferrari root painter it would also generally be cheaper however a car is only original once and as soon as fresh paint coats a panel it's no longer original as it was from the factory now if this car had paintwork done in the past I would have recommended to the owner to simply get the bonnet and front bumper repainted but as this car is all original and is an iconic and rare car that's just not what I do personally so I wouldn't advise anyone else to do so maybe it's just a part of getting older and more sentimental and I understand that many people don't care whether its original or not which is completely fine but I honestly love older original cars as they were from the factory and I don't even mind if they have a few minor scars or show their age just like we do the great thing about the world that we live in today is that we have more options and choices than ever before in history I know based on having this detailing channel for a couple of years now that many people have strong opinionated views about every aspect of detailing that I do which is fine but how boring and limited would it be if everyone did exactly as you'd like or if every situation had only one viewpoint or course of action [Music] Oh [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] now as far as the stone chip touch-up paint process is concerned you'll see me firstly sambac the chipped area which is done to level down the peaks around the chip as well as promote adhesion with the paint the next step is given the area or cleaned with some paint thinners to remove any loose particles as well as prepare the surface for the paint now the paint I'm applying is in two stages with a red base color paint first and then the clear coat on top the idea with the base color is that you want to ensure that the paint covers the raw metal but also sits inside the chip and doesn't protrude above the surface once it's all dry to the touch about 10 to 15 minutes later you then want to add the clear coat on top but this time you want the clear to sit above the surface of the overall panel like a dome on top now all paint contains a large amount of thinners which is the courrier solvent so once that thinners evaporates and escapes from the paint you'll find that the touch-up paint will sink back down so in most cases you will need to follow up with your clear coat a second time about 10 to 15 minutes later to insure the paint is sitting higher than the surface once I was happy with all the touch-up spots on the bonnet which I really need to ensure they are all properly prepared or it's a huge waste of time and I'll have to start again the touch-up paint needs 48 hours to cure before I can we sand and refine the paint while the touch-up will simply come off if I tried to refine it too soon [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] the biggest difference between detailing for myself in detailing in a professional environment is being extremely time efficient and planning each individual job based on a workflow plan now I'm obviously not going to relax and kick back for the next two days while the touch-up paint is curing and I'm also not gonna start compounding the rear of the car when I still have more rock chips to refine and touch up on the front end so whenever the most time efficient way forward is to try and get the rest of the front fenders and bumper compounded and touched up as I need that touch-up paint to be fully cured before I can start refining and finishing those areas I know this may seem like common sense to most of you which is a good thing but the point I want to make is that sometimes just stopping for five minutes and even jotting down a quick work flow plan can really help your dress the most efficient way forward especially or more time demanding jobs like this [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] as I mentioned earlier the front bumper is really the worst stone ship damaged area by far but apart from the stone chips there is also quite a uniform layer of bug splatter etchings I'm sure most of you guys are familiar with the damage that water spot mineral deposits and bird poo matter can do on car paint however bug splatter guts can really do just as much damage if left untreated now I'm sure the owner would have cleaned up those bugs within a reasonable time frame but even the remaining residue that isn't entirely cleaned off can continue to edge its way into the paint well after the bug itself is removed this is where bug or tar removers really come in handy to strip that baked off matter and even water spot removers can be a great way to neutralize and stop those edgings from progressing any further needless to say the owner did learn is lesson here and we'll be putting paint protection film on the front end of his next car now as I mentioned earlier I can understand and appreciate someone wanting to repaint the front bumper though in this particular case I'd still personally not go that way which again is just my personal preference based on this particular car but hopefully you'll at least agree that although I'm gonna be limited in how far I can restore this panel it's still going to look far better in the end and from a normal viewing distance the defects are not going to be very obvious at all [Music] you'll also see that I mixed up some touch up pain of my own for the gray plastic bumper inserts to touch up a few chips on those trends now being that those trends have a satin finish I can't stand back or polish those trends as it would create gloss and destroy the original satin finish but once again with the car down on the ground and under normal lighting unless you know that those chips are there they really don't stand out at all in the end I can't control with the next owner of the car does but doing this repair and correction work at least gives the new car owner the choice of keeping it all original whilst looking quite good or if they really want perfection they can choose to have the bumper repainted by a certified Ferrari with painter in any case all the work that went into this f430 is going to more than pay for itself as nobody in their right mind would look at this car after it's all completed and say that it needs an entire respray [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so while I was waiting for the touch-up paint to fully cure I did start correcting the paint on some of the lower panels of the car while it was still up on the hoist but once that 48-hour curing stage was complete I did get straight back into finishing up the touch-up paint [Music] the first step was testing out the refinement stage on just one of the chips to ensure the paint was ready to be sanded and compounded down so just like the first sanding stage I used my 2500 grit sanding paper on a small sanding block and bit by bit I'd continued sanding in small runs until the touch-up paint was completely level with the rest of the panel the second stage was using finer 4000 grit sanding paper the further reduced the coarser sanding marks so the compelling stage would be far quicker and easier you'll also see the ones always happy that the outcome was quite successful I then started using my rippers nano hybrid polisher for the second sanding stage machine sanding is not only far quicker but also much more consistent and far easier to remove the sanding marks the only reason I didn't use it for both sanding stages is that even a one inch sanding disc is going to create a far larger sanding area and sanding with a tiny strip of sanding paper by hand but because I actually want to increase my sanding area in the second stage to create a more seamless blend and finish it's actually perfect for the final stage of sanding and as you'll have to see the combination of creating nice consistent sanding marks and with the paint clean quite so I made the final compounding two steps extremely quick lazy [Music] [Applause] [Music] now just to illustrate a point that I know comes up in a lot of the comments of my videos which is how much paint or clear coat am I actually removing from the panel if you have a look at the readings I talked after all the sanding touch-up and correcting the paint twice and compare them to the original readings you'll see that there is no measurable difference at all in fact if anything the readings seem higher than the average rating of a hundred and seventy-five microns I had the star with so maybe I magically added some clear coat with my wizardry but seriously I even tried to take many of the readings in the spots that I sanded in and there was just no measurable difference whatsoever I wanted to show this because I think there's a real misconception of the material rate of clicker removal that many people believe at least based on past comments I want to be clear in explaining that it's got very little to do with how often or how much you compound and polish paint but rather about how aggressive you are in that process I can confidently tell you that if this paint was to be corrected in quite a mild manner such as this you could do this dozens and dozens and dozens of times and still have plenty of clear coat remaining however if I was to grab for example a rotary polisher with a nine-inch twisted wool pad and extra heavy cutting compound and crank it up to 2500 rpm and push down with it with all my strength I'd most likely go through the paint within a minute now that's an extreme example but it's still completely true that it's not about how much you correct your paint but all about how aggressive you are during that process and I'll add that the same goes for sanding the light to medium compounds and polishes I'm using on light to superfine polishing and finishing pads as well as the mid to low machine speeds with very little pressure removes so little clear coat that you truly cannot measure it at all [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so first off I can tell you that I was so relieved once I was done with all the touch-up as although I honestly love what I do it really is labor intensive intricate work and to do just so many stone chip touch-ups in one job is kind of rough and really tests your sanity as I've mentioned in past videos I almost always polish the glass on every car a detail as it's the best way to give glass a really good deep clean and also dress defects such as water spots do they need any specific polish in general but if the glass does have quite a few water spots a wall or Margaret fiber pad will definitely be far more effective at removing them [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] much of the remaining paint correction work is quite self-explanatory so I won't talk to you too much further with my voice on most of this process but on the car such as this and really most super or hyper cars the real challenge you're faced with as a detailer correcting the paint these are the curves sharp lines and intricate panels and trends that do make it a more time-consuming job than your average car for the most part you'll see that my larger polisher isn't used anywhere near as much as my smaller three inch and two-inch polishes that without these mini or micro polishes it would just be impossible to achieve a high level of Correction without them on a car such as this and I know may sound a little contradictory but on a job where you're trying to find that perfect balance of preserving the paint it's still achieving a good level of Correction it can be kind of tough to stay focused in that zone where you need to restrict yourself and not chase every last defect but rather know when to say stop usually in jobs like that I'm dealing with super thin paint where if I don't control myself I will potentially burn through it but the whole purpose of this detail on this car is that it never gets to that stage and hopefully the next guy that corrects this paint will have that same respect for mentality [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so as we enter the final stages of this detail and somewhat epically long video or start to wrap it up with a few more bits of information firstly and unfortunately this detailing job did get cut short by day and a half as he only needed the car back early as he did in fact find a serious buyer I'm really not surprised as at the time of this detail this was the only Ferrari f430 manual coupe on the market and from what I've been told the demand for this car highly outweighs the supply so I think the dealership meant a really bad choice in trying to cheat this guy as it would have been a fairly quick and profitable sale but in relation to my timeframe unfortunately didn't get to complete everything I intended to I was going to give the engine a steam clean the interior was gonna get at least a basic clean and dressing but most importantly I did intend on ceramic coating the paint which as hard as I tried that they just simply wasn't enough time instead are still dead of course at some paint protection in the form of no Veloster which really is an awesome sealant that should last up to 12 months on a car like this but obviously a ceramic coating would have lasted a few years I literally finished sealing the paint about 10 minutes before the owner took delivery of the car so there just wasn't enough time to apply a proper glass coating I can honestly tell you that the owner was extremely happy with the result and very appreciative of all the hard work that went into it I could also tell that he was a bit emotional about parting with the car as he really did have a connection and an emotional attachment to it which was a really nice thing to see an experience I never really wanted this YouTube channel to be just about high in exotic cars as am honestly a lover of all cars whether they be Japanese Italian German American English or even just local ozzie cars but I hope you guys enjoyed having a look at the detailing process on this Italian Beauty Ferrari f430 and for those of you who watch this video in its entirety a special thanks from me guys I'll leave you with the final shots of the car all completed and as always our really hope you guys enjoyed and found this video useful please like comment and subscribe to this channel to show support for these videos and I'll see you guys soon [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] all right come on in oh yeah if I have a few one nice big difference [Music] [Music]

Channel: Car Craft Auto Detailing

Views: 169,678

Rating: 4.8485875 out of 5

Keywords: ferrari f430, f430, ferrari, super cars, hyper cars, ferrari f40 f50 enzo, rupes, meguiars, autoglym, chemical guys, auto finesse, professional detailing, how to polish car, best car polish, best car wax, best ceramic coating, best wheel cleaner, best car soap detergent, paint correction, swissvax, best interior dressing cleaner

Id: K8cljaN2rJI

Length: 88min 11sec (5291 seconds)

Published: Mon Mar 18 2019