FeelFree Lure 11.5 V2 Fishing Kayak Motor Upgrade

hey folks mike from eminem kayaks in pinetop arizona we're going to do a motor install this is an upgrade from the pedal drive system so this kayak will have an electric motor in it the big changes that we're going to make is this is the battery that we're running in this kayak it's not a lead acid battery it doesn't weigh a huge amount obviously i'm holding it maybe 10 15 pounds but the battery connection still comes with lead acid battery terminal clamps so we're going to change that out for something like this this is called an anderson it already comes on the charger for this battery and you'll be able to hook this up and just leave it attached and plug it right into your charger when we're done all right so the first step if the if the kayak is already pedal drive ready you have this bracket here and we're going to remove this and make room uh basically using the exact same template exact same screw holes but we're going to put a different bracket in here so to remove it's got nuts and washers on the back [Music] okay now that i've got the plate removed we're going to be installing this bracket very similar to the old bracket in that these tabs are similar those are for the pedal drive unit to adjust into but we need a through hole through the kayak for the wiring harness to go through for the motor so using the exact same template that i've got here we're going to use a hole saw that's one and three quarters all right that is the pretty much the exact diameter of this thing and what i'd like to point out here is that not all of these templates are oval some of them have an extra cut out down here that we don't want to put in the kayak so we'll talk through that in just a second but what i've done is i've measured over 7 8 of an inch 7 8 of an inch and that tells you exactly where to put the bit for the outside edges of the hole so one and three quarters divided by two is still 7 8 of an inch our screw holes line up exactly like they did for the old bracket and all i'm going to do is use a marker put this in there just like you did for the original bracket and i'm going to make a mark where i need to punch through with the hole saw i'm also going to line that out right there because i will end up with an oblong shaped hole [Music] all right now that we've got these two holes drilled we're going to connect the dots there are several ways that you can do this simply turn your pattern if you do end up with one of these oblong shaped patterns where you've got too much hole in it just turn it over line the two top holes up line this bottom edge up with the bottom edge of the cut make your mark and that tells you exactly where to take the plastic out okay so i'm going to cut this out right now [Music] all right so now that i've cut the majority of the plastic out we can get rid of this don't need it anymore we're going to be doing our fit with the actual bracket and i can already see that i've got i've still got sharpie up there this is a wood rasp it cuts this plastic down super fast it's got a round side and a flat side for the flat sections i'll use a flat section all right so next step is going to be in laying this out i have already marked it essentially you're going to line the middle of this slot up between these two make your mark make your mark and then we're going to drill it out you can confirm that your marks are in the straight right spot by placing the actual bracket that we're installing above the holes and my holes do line up [Music] hello so now that we've got this bracket installed underneath here that bracket is what holds the speed controller for the motor this can get installed the bracket is made out of rubber so it is quite flexible and makes it pretty easy to install this that's that next thing we're going to do is i'm going to put some velcro on this battery this battery is going to sit right down there in the bottom of the kayak velcroed in and then we'll be able to run all the wires and cabling through without there being anything in the back of the boat or wires sticking out of the boat all right so what i've done here is we've taken velcro that i bought purchased at ace you can buy it in five foot rolls if you need to split the corner with the velcro and then mark some lines in there where the edge of the battery you want it to sit and then put that the velcro inside the kayak put it on top of the line so that way you don't have to be super precise when you mount this battery all it's got to do is sit down in there it's not going to move around and now we can start plugging in some cabling okay so now we're down to the battery cable and what we're going to do is we're going to take these big lug connectors off and we're going to replace it with an anderson connector that will plug right into the battery and your charger [Music] make sure when you plug these in that you've got the red wire going into the positive side of the turbo the black wire going into the negative side and this can literally just plug right into the wire now if you put them in correctly okay so we've got the speed control bracket installed the speed control unit is in there uh next is the motor install and the first thing we want to do is pull these out from behind the motor tabs if you leave them in you are not going to be able to lock the motor in place motor is engaged now we are going to take this whole wire harness here leave your hand control unit out we're going to run these all through the hole here [Music] like so okay so i pulled this out just to be able to show you quickly and easily all of these connections are pretty much self-explanatory only one size of these connections will fit to each cable so for ease of installation i'm just going to put them in up here there is a detent you have to spin this and find where it actually spins down in there and then you can do the lock ring okay so i've reinstalled the unit we've got all the connections done uh the battery connections to this variable speed control are can be left permanently connected you don't have to undo those when you are done fishing put your battery back [Music] in [Music] and we're done to do a test of this battery you're going to have to have your safety switch installed to install the safety switch the two prongs go towards the back of the battery just kind of push the button and plug it on this is going to be attached to the person that way if you ever fall out of your kayak under power this will disengage the motor and your kayak won't keep going leaving you stranded out in the middle of the no ocean [Music] [Applause] foreign [Music] [Music] okay folks the biggest change that we've made is instead of running the battery cable through the back of the boat and having a wire harness sticking up permanently back there we've just moved everything up here the reason that we're able to do that is because we're running a super light battery instead of a deep cycle marine battery that weighs 60 pounds and has to go behind the driver's seat you've got plenty of room up here and between these connections you'll be able to just basically plug your charger in set it right here and plug it into the battery without even having to remove this all of this still has to come out for transport you should store your motor back in the case all that stuff for to protect it and then this foam grommet this foam pad here goes in the hole after you pull your wiring harness out so that prevents water from being able to splash inside your kayak if you're not using the motor thanks for watching if you have any comments or questions please give me a holler i'll answer any questions just hopefully it's in regards to the kayak thanks

Channel: M&M Kayaks

Views: 11,112

Keywords: feelfree lure 11.5, feelfree, kayak, feelfree kayak, feelfree fishing kayak, kayak fishing, kayaking, motor kayak fishing, feelfree pedal drive, upgrade, best kayak upgrades, feelfree lure, motor kayak, pedal kayak

Id: nBhjIwsRgqw

Length: 10min 44sec (644 seconds)

Published: Wed Dec 09 2020