Feel free lure 11.5 and wireless trolling pro speed controller

okay guys I had a lot of questions last night about this trolling motor setup so I'm going to make a video quick run it through this is fully put together right here um here's your controller from Wireless trolling Pro my beauty of this thing is there's no actual five speeds it's anything in between from extremely slow to full speed and anything anything in the middle same with reverse so this actually saves your battery take action adding a product or adding a digital Maximizer to just a hinderer C 2 or whatever pound thrust you're gonna be using motor so I'll start the back just bracket this is the bracket it's permanently mounted is 8th inch 2 inch wide flat bar stock its handle it's on the inside with another plate so this plastic of the hole is actually sandwich king this plate another plate listen that lock washer washers 4 inch hats you have to cut in the back to access your receptacle run your wiring and reach the nuts on this guy this bracket runs the contour of the backside of kayak and actually sandwiches that might be kind of hard to see you've got actually sandwiches the handle in the back kind of see it there so that's pretty sturdy I mean hold the hell the motor of Union with lifting it turning it without these guys on here it's pretty it's pretty stiff on there without even the bolts the way I mounted it is to cut the clamp off the transom mount off the motor just to give it room to clear this thumb nut has a nut welded onto the underside of this bracket underneath there this one is the factory clamp that came on the transom mount and it goes all the way through the bracket all the way through this handle to here so that whole thing is connected in one spot the nice thing about this is if I want to go to my rudder to my motor or vice versa I just remove these two guys this whole thing comes off the rudder slides back in its factory spot the pin on the rudder is plenty long enough to reach through the additional thickness of this plate times two so you never have to remove this and you can switch back and forth as you to original length rudder cables I just remove the fittings added a wire crimp put some heat-shrink had a carabiner to the end so I can clip this back and forth between this or the rudder controls as far as the steering pin goes this is just a factory bracket that came on the MinnKota I can remember originally was four I just drank them all 3/8 inch I believe all thread some alternate connectors drilled some holes some split rings added a piece of cable to extend the length of these guys these are permanently on here on here so they just stay there the nice thing about keeping your steering really close to the shaft and had using cables instead of hard mounting to these guys is that even at full lock I still have the use of my factory pedals and I get full steering either way I wasn't interested in having the slide pedals so I made a point to make sure that we were still using factory pedals on there the shaft is cut down to roughly 20 inches long the head is flipped the other way handle I cut off so there's no more extension on it but it still works I keep it in off and I'm not using it but when I'm running it keep it on five and just let the speed controller up front take care of everything in between see I mounted I welded a I'll it to the original screw head that goes that mounts the motor and that's what I use for my motor lifts that's just ran around pretty simple right now just some paracord I ran underneath these guys in the rail added a cleat on this side and see a little stainless steel pull a ring so the way it works is you pull your regular factory rudder lift line up front on the left side a kayak and what that does is it unlatches the latch and then you would pull that string and it would pull your motor up it works actually pretty good for being how simple is and I'll go through this guy here in a second when I take this thing apart um a little more so on the original motors where it connects there's a pin that connects the to knock that pin out this is a 3/8 I believe stainless steel shaft that I just got a home depot just a cotter pin on this side pull that so it's the bracket we made this is the part that the motor um Taylor time and I mean it's just two pieces we bent them with the torch welded little washer on here so it wouldn't go too far do some holes paint it and that's it so to remove the motor the rudder cables over lift maybe pull your plug and the whole motor comes out like that that just stays on there that's how I travel with it I just pop this guy back in whenever I'm ready to head out on the water okay moving up front see MinnKota just plug and receptacle on the side rain wiring all the way up the front inside the hatch I have plain ol box here and on the side I have some quick terminals so I have wire netted terminals terminals on the side of this this is a Plano just a plastic Plano ammo box I got from bucket in sportsman's store so if I don't want this I just pull the whole thing out inside really I never take this battery even out of here so this is a 35 amp our AGM have a resettable breaker in between on hot wires and then that's your this this black box that's down there is your speed controller and that pretty much just gets wired between your motor and your battery and that's it and then it has five wires to hots to grounds and then it has your speed controller wire how'd you pull it out a little divot in the lid add a little bit electrical tape for extra safety on that line when the lid shut and it just runs up runs up here to the front if I have it uh I'm standing up I'm going to add a belt clip to it I'm standing up I just kind of keep it in my pocket like this the controller's sticking out for right now and then if I'm sitting down I just pop it inside the pocket like that and it just sits there perfectly fine I can just put along all this stuff the breaker the main code adding up almost everything on here you can buy off Amazon I did battery box of our sportsmen the speed controller was came from wireless trolling procom and yeah there's a you can run this another way to which my buddy that's on this page Tyler Alderson he ran he has pretty much exact same setup except he deleted the head completely off his motor and moved the little switch that's inside here for the handle he just moved it to a waterproof electrical box that he has bolted to the front side of this the only difference is you'll have to run either to MinnKota plugs or one for wire plug because instead of extending two wires with the head attached the hot in the ground you'll end up having to extend all four wires up to the front so there's no wrong way to do it but there's I guess two different ways you can get that little cleaner look with the head cut off completely but it's a little bit more work and be a little more expensive wires and the next to the plugs are more expensive so yeah go fix

Channel: Dominant31

Views: 168,649

Keywords: Feel free lure kayak minn Kota 11.5 motorized fishing motor

Id: H50SlgCyh58

Length: 11min 43sec (703 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 11 2016