Everything you need to know about point cutting

hey friends Andrew Carruthers here education director for Sambia jumping on live with you today to share some tips and tricks on the technique of point cutting we're seeing lots of texture and movement and hair right now so this is a technique that we feel you should have great ownership over as a hairdresser and so we're gonna go through some concepts of different ways to use point cutting but also how you control the technique because there's a lot of things that are happening that we see when we're out working on the road and helping out at your salons that we think we could help you out so if you're here with me say hi love does this see who's here with me and if you have any questions on the technique of point cutting please let me know I'm happy to address things with you guys hmm Eduardo on Sahara Dana tender hi boss oh hey boss used to be my nickname actually Heather's watching while the client processes perfect way to spend some time while your clients process and getting some information all right I'm gonna jump right in and like I said if you have any questions just leave them over here in the comments and you know good to him James Jamie I'm not Sam I'm Andrew actually I'm his education director but compliment taken so thank you alright so point cutting is anytime that we're cutting from the outside in so the shear is going into the hair from the outside in now one thing I think that's important to designate is why would we use a outside in technique light point cutting versus an inside-out technique like slicing and the reason we would choose point cutting over slicing is where it's going to affect the texture and the length first if we approach hair from the outside in we are primarily going to affect the first and that's where we're gonna see most of the effect of what we're doing if we turn this year this way and go from inside out then we're going to affect the interior the hair first and then move out to the ends so both are really effective it just is really a decision on where do you want to affect the hair most is it horn ends where is it more on the interior so we're gonna focus on point cutting today and then maybe actually if you guys are on our YouTube channel Jesse Linares we've had a bunch of posts with him recently that we've put up that have a ton of information on inside-out cutting we just barely posted something fresh for you guys so check that out - mm-hmm hi guys hi Norman Gannett Margaret alright so point cutting there's a couple things that really make the big difference first is going to be the angle that you approach the hair to move her a little closer to get it nice if you go a bit so the angle that we approach the hair whether it's very parallel to the grain of the hair or if we start to come in more a diagonal to the hair that's gonna make a big difference on the visual texture if we are very very parallel to the hair what do you guys think is that's gonna give me a really defined texture or is gonna be really soft we leave it in the comment that's what do you think let's see I just think so heard you're saying you're never taught to point cut at school a lot of schools don't actually teach point cutting which you know there's Goods and Bad's about it mainly is usually in school you're gonna learn the blunt cut really just because there's a lot more discipline in that def shape and you kinda can get away with less you know point cutting is nice because you can get away with a little bit more good so we have lots of mixed information good so soft is actually the answer because if you think about what's going to give me defined texture I'm very parallel with the hair I'm going to create very tiny little holes and those tiny little holes are going to give me a very soft effect now if we go at more of a diagonal to the hair and we approach like that then you can see how to find we start to make that texture so the more diagonal to the hair you are the more defined the texture you're going to have the more parallel to the hair the more soft it's going to be so first thing you have to decide is what's the visual texture you're looking for and that's going to help you to decide how what angle you're gonna approach the hair at the one thing that you need to be cautious of is if you go too far this way and you start to make cuts like this sometimes we see people point cutting but they're almost kind of just jabbing across the hair and you can see what that's dealing is almost just kind of leaving me blunt chunky ends and this is where we get into trouble where it's not really texture anymore it falls into chunky pieces that usually you end up having to texturize back out of there so you want to be a little careful with the angle as well so Bailey you're asking when do we use each technique we're going to talk about that a little bit further when you talk about one other piece of the puzzle and then we'll talk more specifically about when do you use different techniques as far as inside of your hair cuts so I'm cool and I did see your question about curly hair and we'll talk about curly hair as well hi Dan I will tell Sam all right so the other aspect is how far you actually go into the strand if we are very very shallow very shallow you can immediately imagine where the texture is going to be focused it's just gonna be round very much on the tips of the hair the deeper into the hair strand we go and depending on that angle that's going to affect the interior of the shape more and you do have to think about that because sometimes you might want the texture just on the ends maybe you don't actually want to district disrupt the density or the texture on the interior of the air you're just looking to see soften the ends so um let's see Bailey you were asking when do you use each technique so here's a good example I actually put her over here for a second let's bring another model on so if I want to just affect the ends that's when we're going to be more shallow and probably a little bit more parallel with the hair we want to be cautious with how diagonal we get if we're being very bold so this would be a great opportunities when you're cutting fringe and let's say you actually want your line to appear somewhat solid but you want a soft edge to it that's when this very kind of shallow point cut would be very beneficial you can see them sting somewhat parallel to the hair it's a little bit of a diagonal but if I go too far diagonal that's when especially these lower elevations is going to start to look choppy and chunky so especially when you're working at low elevation like cutting a fringe like this be cautious of that angle and if in doubt I would say be more parallel to the hair just so that you keep things soft okay so what you can see there within that section now I'm kind of standing off to the side so you guys can see which I'm not going to get a real straight line out of it but but what's cool is what you can see is you can actually create a pretty strong line there but it's gonna have that nice soft edge to it so especially if someone comes in and they want more of a blunt fringe but you don't want to give it too hard of an edge especially if they have a thicker texture of hair a shallow point cut like that might be best for it now on the other side if we're looking to cut layers into hair a lot of times what we see in as we see people using a very shallow technique or a very soft technique like that thinking that they're going to achieve texture this is kind of a waste of time so once we elevate hair even if we cut it blunt as it returns back down to its natural fall when it gets to here it has travelled so far from where you first blunt cut it that it's going to soften itself anyway so even blunt cutting is going to appear more soft once we get to higher elevations but what we see a lot of times is people will elevate the hair and then they'll do this and I say people do this I used to do this actually so I would do like a hundred little itty-bitty point cuts and you saw how long it took me to actually get through that section that's kind of a waste of time one or at high elevation it's not a waste of time at low elevation because you're gonna get that softness in the line but remember what I said even if you blunt cut this by the time it drops to here it's gonna have some softness to it anyway so a really subtle soft point cut like that it's just not going to be super beneficial at high elevations and one of the things we try and focus on with our education is efficiency in haircutting so that you're not wasting time behind the chair with how you're approaching that technique so you can get the best results as quick as possible let me just check these it's got a lot of comments popping up let me just check through here real quick okay we're good mmm Jing Castillo says shout out everyone and I apologize if I say your names wrong I you know it's it's hard to know exactly how things are pronounced so I realized I just didn't tell you the solution so instead of a very softly point cutting like this with tiny little chops just in the ends what we have to be willing to do when we're layering hair and we want to see more visual texture is we to be more aggressive with the process so we would recommend that you get more diagonal to the hair and reach deeper into the hair strand as you're cutting because those kinds of peaks and valleys yeah they might seem pretty strong right now but again remember as they fall down into gravity away from where you cut it those are going to soften up a lot and if you're looking for that really visually separated texture that we see a ton on like Instagram and in social media right now if you want that super separated texture you have to be willing to be that old and it's in it's hard almost sometimes to break the habit of wanting to really be micro and control the line but think about how much texturizing you do after the fact to try and get that separation so put it in as as soon as you get it so Joe who you're saying new to the channel cool well welcome you've got tons of Education for you so hopefully it'll help you out my friend silvermont you're asking what size should be a point cutting shear okay this is a great question because it really depends let me grab a few shears here and we'll compare okay so this is our 6 inch Signature Series swivel share so not a huge long boy but it would be enough for if you're just looking to do some shallow point cutting or if you're just trying to get further into the a little bit further into the hair you know the Signature Series the nice thing is we do have that swivel option if you'd like to do more of a swivel shear which the big benefit of that is ergonomics as far as keeping your wrists in a really nice position this shear is our six and three-quarter inch streamline series shear so you can see definitely have a little bit more length to that blade so this is definitely going to be preferable for if you're doing something like I just showed you where you're trying to get really deep into the hair strands and then if you want you can even jump up to the Big Big Daddies this is our seven-inch dry cutting shear look at this thing it's like a ninja sword right but it's only a tiny bit longer than this this year but it does have that wider blade which gives it some structure so when you're cutting on thicker heavier dry hair it doesn't fold hair and by the way we are in the middle of a sale this month it's a big sale on this signature and the streamline series shears there are a hundred and twenty-five dollars off on the website if you guys are looking for shears this is a great month to look at shears it's one of our best prices of the year and we do have payment plans available so with one hundred twenty-five dollars off and a payment plan you can actually get some killer shears for really really good and monthly pricing so I hope that helps Justin you're saying you love the dreaded cutting tree you use it every day I yeah it's one of my daily drivers tmn oh no silver you just dropped your shears oh it's the worst it's the worst sound - when it first hits the floor alright so um we've got off spring freak maybe I think that's maybe you're asking what does this do in comparison to a texture shear love that question - so let's look at that so here's our Signature Series reversible blending shear so you can see lots of teeth tons of teeth but very small teeth and not a ton of space in between so when you're looking at texture shears that's kind of what you're looking for is you're looking at how larger the teeth and what's the spacing in between so this is our Signature Series invisible and shear sorry and you can see that the two tooth spacing is much farther apart than this one so this one's going to give you a much softer feel less less teeth to cut so you're gonna leave more hair so that's how you kind of balance when you look at texture shears so the main thing that's going to happen when you're using a blending shears texture share is as you cut it's going to put lots of tiny little holes in there so texture share is almost always going to give you more soft results unless you are really specific about your technique there's ways to get more dramatic you can do we do it what we call weaving and then blend technique where you just take the solid blade of the shear and weave it through in big pieces and then you can kind of camp out the nice thing with how dense that tooth spacing is you can see I took quite a hair away pretty quick and then you can be more deliberate with a blending shear but typically if you're just working like this it's gonna be very very soft so it's going to give you more of a similar effect of if you're point cutting with a very parallel point cut and then you can use this very deep into the hair or very shallow we're glad you're here to you silver um let's see kirbygirl you're here brand new to of cool welcome to the channel my friend hi from Brazil and from India very cold got international group here um Corina you're asking if the texture shears are on sale as well yes they are so both the reversible blending shear and the invisablend are on sale I'd recommend the reversible blender if you're looking for something that's super versatile I use these for shear over comb on men's haircuts are really short women's haircuts all the time because you can see that spacing is so tight together you can actually remove quite a bit of hair at a time but you can also use them as a softening share the invisablend is really good for if you're looking for a shear that you can be quite kind of aggressive especially something like I've hearing a fringe where you're trying to remove weight I wouldn't do this with this year because it would take too much away but with the invisablend you can close and just take very very soft amounts of hair with each cut we call it the invisablend because this is actually not a sharp surface it's a polished surface only the teeth cut so it allows the hair to push forward as you're cutting so it keeps things super super soft but guess those are part of the cell to got hair all over my computer now Joe's saying yes painful probably about drafting this year's Kevin you're sent that you're saying you're in barber school and want to master these techniques I'll tell you man here's one thing that will set you apart as a barber especially is really understanding texture it's one of the things that we see doesn't get taught a lot in barber curriculums and especially you know we're seeing guys return tomorrow this kind of kind of stuff with haircutting you know there's still a huge trend in the Superbowl blades and are really structured lines and you know the greased back kind of looks but we're seeing a lot of movement and would be curious if you're seeing this too we're seeing a lot of movement towards texture and and I actually just got my haircut today and I actually specifically asked him this guy Dylan that cuts my hair it's yellow salon in Medford Oregon you know I specifically asked him to keep this a little bit longer through the sides because you know I used to get pretty tight through the sides but I'm I'm liking a softer texture now so yeah definitely master those texturizing techniques Kevin that'll really set you apart my friend and also you're asking about left-handed shears yes we have left-handed shears in every single shear we make except for the two artist series shears which are kind of our premium line shears but everything in the streamline everything in the signature line everything in the essential line comes in a left hand so yes sorry I just check in comments I'm not just like looking off into space here hey Maya or Hema I'm not sure how you pronounce good you two lefties - we've got him forget my friend if you guys are outside of the United States you can contact our customer service - we outside of the United States so just looking to see if we owe ya curly hair almost forgot about the curly hair James you're asking if I'm wearing studs or plugs plugs Beverly you're asking would use point cutting mainly to blend it kind of like what we've been talking about you can use it for anything you can use it to blend you can use it to soften you can use it to remove length it just all depends on how deep or how shallow you cut and then the angle of the shear so let's talk about the curly hair because this is a really important thing to understand especially if you're going to be cutting layers or something into curly hair a lot of times we think oh yeah I want some texture in that curly hair so we'll come in grab our section and then just kind of wail on it well look at how wispy and that leaves those ends I'm curly hair that equals frizz so one of the things that we teach as far as with curly hair which is actually really common with fine hair believe it or not is one of the things that we teach is the ends need friends so what does that mean it means if I want a textured finish on curly hair I need to be more creating this because now the ends have friends so that can actually create a curl without having just a super frizzy finish to it if it's two separated and there's lots of little wispy pieces that can't form an actual curl the ends can't grab together to form a great curl so that's where we get that frizziness from that's why a lot of people say don't use blending shears on curly hair and you just got a we've got a huge thunderstorm coming in so hopefully I'll make it through the rest of this without their power gone out or something or our internet but that's why people say not to use blending shears on curly hair because typically what we see when people are using blending shears is they're doing this kind of stuff which that is definitely not good for curly hair but what can you for curly hair is that technique I showed you guys before which is to not with the blending share so you can see I've weaved out a couple pieces and then if you just kind of camp out pretty close in there you can actually form some pretty strong pieces that is really great for taking some bulk and density out of curly hair so it's not necessarily the blending shears can't be used on curly hair you just have to be cautious with how you use them bless me all right let's see tender or Tejinder I'm not sure I'll you say your name but yes the same principle applies for kind of thick thick hair that tends to be fluffy or frizzy now if you have thick hair that tends to a really nicely like Asian textures of hair you can put lots of tiny little holes into that it just depends on if it's frizzy or not so if the hair isn't frizzy you can be really pretty deliberate with whip creating little holes might have some Japanese clients and they actually taught me that a lot of times in Japan they pre texture the hair to remove weight first so the whole literally approach the hair right down at the scalp you guys see that turn out a little bit fun they literally come in right down at the scalp and just close with a blending shear to remove density first and they'll pre texture pre take out all that weight and density before they even start the haircut because they know they're gonna have to remove so much density to get that loose lift and feel and those ladies you know I would do my typical process which was to cut the shape first and then I'd start to take weight out of their hair and they just be like no more take more take more take more take mark so it would have been way more efficient for me to just go through and take a bunch of bulk out and actually cut the ends and would have been more efficient so hope that helps too I'm glad you're liking this my friend oh no problem Kayla you're asking can you show some good point cutting to soften a bit please yes absolutely so let's do this real quick let's give her a problem what's giver you know a lot of times what happens is we think we're layering but we're holding the hair that kind of lower elevation so we do something like that and then it goes to fall and what does it gives give us it gives us that gives us more of a heavy line because we're actually cutting more at low graduation into the hair and that's gonna create weight so we see something like that in our haircut and look at that line that's really heavy now first thing is we want to address the hair that needs the texture so what you can even do if you see something like that just take your comb and just touch it and see how that just picked that piece right up and just put it right back into my hand so that's a way that you can make sure that you're only addressing the hair that it's addressed because all this stuff didn't need anything so what we've been talking about is that approach wise we want to stay very parallel with the hair at this point because we're just looking to soften the edge we're not looking to necessarily create really deep interior texture or deep visual texture so you want to stay very parallel if we only just barely kind of skim through these ends it's not going to do a whole lot for me when it falls back down I'm still gonna have that weight and density so what we want to do is get a little deeper into the hair strand and we're using that six and three-quarter inch stream line series shear so we can get a little further in and then we're going to be able to work deep enough into the hair strand so that as we work that through we can actually soften that client you need to create those little peaks and valleys in there so then when that falls back down it's not going to have so much strength to it to form such a hard line I hope that helps you out Lisa that's really cool I mean it's not really cool that you're in bed with two broken legs but that makes me happier that you that you have something to watch today and that we're bringing you some joy my friend that's that's really awesome engine Indonesia Argentina UK oh my gosh this is so awesome I love doing these things because we get to meet so many of you guys yes yeah but more parallel if you were looking for more visual texture you can change the angle but and we'll posts we'll post this live video to our channel so that you guys can go back and review some of this stuff from earlier to route rocky you're saying you don't get the difference okay let me explain I'll give you one more little kind of understanding so if okay let me get you a nice blunt piece so we can describe this again if you stay very parallel to the hair what it's going to do is it's going to create very tiny little holes in between the hair so that's gonna create softness if we want to create actual visual texture or separation where we can see pieces of hair that's when we have to bring the shear in more diagonal and create our deliberate peaks and valleys because this is actually going to create that air spray space and separation that when the hair falls it's going to separate itself and give movement to it a lot of times what we see people doing is they're trying to get that our PC texture but they're doing a very soft light point cutting and creating lots of tiny little holes or they're using a blending shear how they would traditionally use a blending a share and they're just kind of doing this how many of you guys do that I know that I used to and you think oh I'm texturizing the hair no you're just thinning there your softening on the hair you're removing weight and density and you're softening the shape because you're putting lots of little holes in between so hopefully that makes sense you have to be more deliberate and that happens by taking a stronger angle thanks for answering that Joe you're welcome Cecilia alright I'm gonna give you guys a a another chance to throw one or two last questions in there if you want and if not I'm gonna start to wrap up and just kind of give you a quick recap so the two things we talked about that are really important is the angle of the share and relationship to the hair and the depth that you enter into the hair so if we're very parallel with the hair it's gonna be soft if we go more diagonal to the hair that's gonna give us more dramatic texture the deeper we go into the hair of course the more we're gonna affect weight and density further into the hair and the more shallow we are the more we're just gonna focus on the ends so that's really kind of the big thing and one last thing to practice point cutting because I know a lot of you might be a little afraid of this just grab your shears and go home the big thing that people cut themselves is because they're closing as they enter into the hair what you want to do is actually close as you exit from the hair so when you first enter into the hair you're just establishing how far into the hair you want to go and then you close on the way out so what Maya printer the guy that apprenticed me my journey astir Neiman taught me is come in tap and then release release so that way if you're only closing on the way out you're not going to cut yourself and it's all about muscle memory so grab your shears take them home with you sit on the couch watch a movie and you know oh my gosh I'm forgetting your name but you have two broken legs so this would be a really good opportunity to practice your share techniques so if you have some time just sit and practice that and that's gonna help you a lot with your point cutting so let me just check these last few comments Julie you're asking the difference between long and short layers it's exactly what it sounds like short layers I'm short long layers are going to exist probably more in the ends because of the length of layers it to be a little careful just because those kinds of terminology are not Universal within hairdressing so when a client sits in your chair or you know as a consumer if any of you are watching right now that are just going in to get your hair cut and you're going to try and describe the haircut the words that we use can sometimes create a lot of confusion because what short layers are to me might be kind of different than the next person so talk more about the results where do you want the layers to sit you want them short through the top and leave the ends really full and you know pictures are always really helpful with that - Andrew I don't know that I could really give you a recommendation on how to do these things yourself because I mainly teach professional hairdressers where we get to stand out here with two arms there's probably honestly better youtubers and stuff out there doing stuff on themselves that can help you at that my friend Margaret you're asking about the dry cutting versus be regular shears so really dry cutting the reason we name them that is because dry hair tends to be more difficult to cut because it's more structurally sound wet hair is easier to cut through so the design of the dry cutting shear it's probably hard to see on the video but there's this little Ridge here and a wider blade so what that does is even if you're cutting a lot of big thick heavy hair it just kind of plows through the hair now with the six and three-quarter inch this is the streamlined shear and you can see it as a much thinner blade to it if I try to do that same thing it's going to kind of push the hair mark before it cuts so the seven-inch dry cutting shear is really about capturing the hair really well and cutting through large amounts of hair really effortlessly so we'd recommend that shear for people that are doing a lot of condensed cutting cutting on really thick heavy hair or a lot of dry air of that house yeah yeah Gary Gary maybe day reblogs you're saying please tell them not to do it on themselves yeah I mean that's the thing of course our recommendation is always go to a professional hairdresser I know that there's lots of you guys out there that you know we get stories all the time like hey look nowhere I can't find the hairdresser things like that and so people are out there looking for ways to do a better haircut on themselves and yeah that's okay but we would definitely highly recommend that you leave this to the professionals cool all right I am gonna say goodbye my friends oh we got someone from Morocco your questions a big one my friend I don't know that I'd really be able to answer that because that's two completely different haircuts pulling it forward or pulling it backwards and give you completely different results so it's more about desired and result than it is about a preference with that kind of thing so that would be a big question all right guys so I'm gonna say goodbye like I said this will be up on our YouTube channel so if you want to go back and review anything that we talked about the beginning please do and if you do you need shears don't forget we are running a sale this month and September one hundred and twenty five dollars off the stream line and the Signature Series shears the ones that I've shown you here today and we do you have payment plans on the website now too so if you're looking for good quality affordable shears now's the time and you need anything from us please reach out we'd love to hear from you guys thanks again for watching I'm Andrew Carruthers education director for sandhya see you guys thanks training

Channel: Sam Villa Hair Tutorials

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Length: 35min 7sec (2107 seconds)

Published: Thu Sep 05 2019