- [Shane] Today we're gonna venture into some unknown territory and explore some new joinery techniques, while building a chair
worthy of the title, "The Perfect Lounger," or
at least that's the plan. I'm Timber Biscuit. All right, so for this chair, I'm wanna do something
a little bit different. I'm gonna skip over milling
my lumber, because I think you guys have seen enough of
that throughout my videos, and jump right into the build. So for this one, I'm gonna be using some eight quarter walnut
that's been milled down to one and seven eights. And these pieces that you
see me laying out here are gonna make up the side
profile for my modern lounger. Now I'm taking a bit of a
different approach to the joinery on this piece, so I need to make sure that
I extend my templates out to make room for some
tenons, and we'll dive more into what I'm gonna do
with those in a little bit. But so we're all on the same page, let's take a moment to
dive into the design. Now, if you watched the last video, I built a table and cabinet fusion. So the overall design for
this chair is heavily inspired by that table, as you can see,
by the nice sweeping curves. Now, just like last time, this
is just a rough-ish sketch. I'm not a huge fan of fully
committing to something in a sketch. I'd rather flesh those
ideas out in the shop, and I promise throughout the video we'll cover more of the details, but at least now you have an
idea of what we're going for. So getting back to it, the next step in the process was to cut out all of my pieces. And to do that, I'm just gonna rough them
out over at the bandsaw. Here I'm just cutting as close
as I can to my templated line while making sure not to cut into it. Now, earlier when I was
laying out these pieces, I was really focused on the grain pattern. I laid out all my parts to
find the straightest grain for each section. Now while it's not 100% necessary, and maybe you don't want
to do it for every piece, I think for this one it
makes a lot of sense. There's a lot of straight
lines as well as some subtle curves that I try to use
the grain pattern to follow. And overall, I think it will result in a more cohesive piece. And if not, I'll just try cutting it
in half by looking at it. I did it once, saw it with my own eyes. All right, so the next step
was to slap my templates back onto my rough cut pieces
using some double-sided tape. From there, I can use a
template bit in my router table to trim out the templates. Now what I'm going for
here is just a small groove around all my pieces. I find that this is both the
easiest and the safest way to trim out templates. In the past I've used
a large flush trim bit to flush trim these out fully
from the get-go, but I find that that's less consistent
than doing it this way, especially with a piece like
this where the radius of the curves is kind of tight
and there's a lot of endgrain. The good thing about
using a small pattern bit is that there's less stress on it, and it results in a
smoother less chattery cut. Now you'll probably
notice here that again, I'm not tracing out the
complete ends of my template, and that's, again, because I
wanna make sure that I leave space for my mortise and tenon joinery. On the pieces that are gonna have tenons, I've eyeballed about an inch
and a half of extra space, so that I have plenty of real estate to mark those tenons out. So now that I've got that groove
carved into all my pieces, I'm just using a tall
flush trim combination bit to flush everything out. And I've talked about this a ton, but a compression bit does
a great job with end grain. So I think it works perfectly
for this application. And before I forget, if you guys want templates
and plans for this project, let me know down on the comments, and if there's enough interest,
I'll put 'em together. And don't worry, you don't
need to use mortise and tenon. You could use dowels or dominoes. All right, so the next step in the process was to lay out those tenons. And for some of the tenons, I'm gonna be going with three
quarter inch long tenons, while other tenons are gonna
have one inch long tenons. And that's just because of
the nature of the stress that they're gonna receive. On the backrest, for instance, I wanna have a longer tenon
than I do for the side rails, and that's just because the
backrest of a chair receives the most stress out of any of the joints. So now that I've marked
out the tenon length, I'm just gonna take the
pieces back over to my bandsaw and trim them down. I'm not looking for
these to be perfect here, 'cause I can always finesse
these fits later on, but I'm trying to get as close as I can. So the tenons marked out and trimmed down. The next step in the process
was to find the center for each of them, and that's gonna just include
a little bit of measuring and math. Now this part of the
process is super important, because all of our joints
are gonna be laid out based off of this mark. So here I really made sure to
take my time and really double and even triple check my
math, because while laying out domino and dowel joinery can be tricky, laying out mortise and tenon joinery is a little bit harder, because you don't have the
luxury of butting your two pieces against each other to
find the center point. And if you don't get it right, just like an unemployment
joke, they don't work. All right, so with that, it brings me to my new joinery
process that we talked about in the opening of the video,
and that's gonna be cutting mortise and tenon and
joinery using a PantoRouter. Now you may have seen
a PantoRouter before, but this is my first time ever owning one, and I literally got it hours
before shooting this video. Now to be clear, this
isn't a sponsored video, I just really wanted a PantoRouter, and I felt like it'd be
perfect for this project. Plus I can see its versatility in a ton of other applications, so for me it was a good investment, and since I purchased it myself, you're gonna get an honest
opinion on it, anytime I use it. So with that out of the way, let me talk a little
bit about how it works for those of you who are unaware. In a nutshell, the machine
works off of a pivot system. The net pivot system is locked
down to a base and a frame that swings within an allowed space. And you can confine that
space using templates that are attached to the machine. And basically you use
a post with a bearing to follow that template, which guides the cutter for the router around the work piece. The result is a really
accurate machine that allows me to do repeatable cuts
based off the template. Now all this is super accurate
when you're able to use the fences to align your work piece, but because my pieces are offset angles that have rounded corners, I'm not able to utilize any
of those tools for these cuts. So instead what I did was use
the tip of a centering bit to locate my work piece. Because the table and
router are locked in place, they follow the same plane. So as long as my work piece is centered, and my bit follows my marking
line from front to back, I know that they're gonna match up, and the result will
give me a centered tenon based off exactly where
my measurement was. Now honestly, I'm not sure if
that's how they fully intend for this type of machine to work, but it worked great for my application. And as you can see here
from our initial mortises, everything's dialed in nice and tight. So we'll keep these
settings exactly the same for the remainder of these tenons. Now my first set of leg tenons are all gonna be single tenons, but we're gonna do some double
tenons and some larger tenons on some of my other parts. And if you're digging this
dive on a modern way to build a modern chair, be sure
to give this video a like so it can spread to more people. I appreciate your support. All right, so with the first set of mortise and tenon
joinery all wrapped up, I could test how all of my
fits and see if anything needed to be adjusted. Now right off the machine, these were about 95% of the way there, with two tenons needing to be shaved down. But with that being said, we're looking all right. All right, so the next step
was to work on my smaller set of double mortise and tenon joints. And these are gonna go in my two legs as well as the side rails. Here, because there's a lot
more space on the side rails, I felt like it was a good
opportunity to utilize the double mortise and tenon joint. Now the rails aren't gonna
receive a ton of stress, but I still think this is a good use case for a dual mortise and tenon, which I gotta say after a
little bit of testing and setup, was about as easy as doing a single. I think the most challenging
part of all of this was just keeping track
of the depths of each of my mortise and tenons,
because like I mentioned earlier, they're gonna vary depending
on their placement. It's just a lot to be mindful of. So again, here I color
code all of my joints to make sure that I'm
lining them up correctly and I double and triple
check my notes to make sure I'm cutting the right size
joint on the right part. And once I had all my joints
cut, I could test the fit. And what I found was that
one of my rails was about an eighth of an inch longer
than it was supposed to be. So what I did was mark out
where that end should be, and then recut it. Now because there was
already tenons in this side, I thought it was gonna be kind
of tricky to get everything realigned, but in actuality
it wasn't that bad. I just followed the
same process that I did for my initial setup and
everything lined up perfectly. I think that really
highlights the accuracy and repeatability portion of the machine. I will also say that if I was
cutting these at the table saw like I would do if I was
doing domino joinery, I wouldn't have run into this issue. So that's definitely something to look at if you're looking at this machine. Like the guy who stole my selfie stick, you need to take a long look at yourself. All right, so next on
my list was to clean up some of these mortise and tenon joints. A few of the shoulders
were a little offset 'cause the angles weren't
as perfect as they would be if they came directly off the table saw. And that's just because
I didn't have any jig to set these up. When you use something like a sled, you can get repeatability on
your cuts that are gonna be exactly the same every single time. But with that, you give
up the ease and speed that you can cut fun joinery like this. So again, that's one of those
things that you have to weigh as a pro and a con. For me, it only takes a
couple minutes and a plane to finesse those angles. And if I was forced to choose, I'd pick the traditional joinery. Now all this isn't to say
that I'm not gonna go back to using a Domino. In fact, in this build
I will use a Domino. But I think ultimately it just
gives me a lot more options, and I love having options. Like when my friend told
me to make myself at home at his new house, I threw 'em out. I can't stand and have visitors,
and that's just a joke. I love having you guys around. And speaking of which, if
you're enjoying this video and you wanna see more projects, be sure to stick around and subscribe. I make new videos about
woodworking projects, tips and tricks all the time. So subscribe so you
don't miss the next one. So with that last cut, the legs and rails were all
done and I could go ahead and glue 'em up. Now the majority of the strength
from a mortise and tenon joint comes from the grain
direction of your two parts. And what that means that
the crossing pattern between the two grains are what
really create the strength. With that being said, I still like to add glue to the end grain, which acts as a straw sucking
the glue in, as well as glued to the part that I'm gluing my tenon to. This way it increases the surface area, which is the goal for all
these types of joints, and gives me a stronger bond. Now with all my glue ups, I practice before I do the actual glue up itself. And that was especially
important with this one, 'cause I had to add a
couple of miter clamp pieces to hold my clamps in place
at the correct angle. And if you don't have
these miter clamp tools, you could also just use offcuts that have complimentary angles. So with the legs in clamps,
and while my glue dried, I went ahead and turned my
attention to the armrest. Now my armrest is gonna
have two separate sections. One is gonna be where the palm sits, and that's just gonna
be the same thickness as the rest of the chair sides. Towards the back, however, I
wanna build in a transition, one that will taper
outward and give more space for your elbows, you know,
somewhere to throw them 'bows. So what I need to do here
is just use my chisel to create a nice 90-degree crisp edge for where that transition will start. So all I do is use a hold
down and then mark out where that 90-degree is gonna be, and then just use my chisel and a mallet to square everything off. Here, I'm just careful to
do one side and then flip my work piece over to avoid
that blowout that would occur if I went all the way
through the work piece. And then after a couple of taps, I can shave everything
down and check the fit. Now you've probably noticed
that I don't have these armrests cut yet, but that's okay. I'll just use a square
piece of plywood to check to make sure that
everything's nice and flush and what it looks like it is. We're good. From there, I'll take my work piece over to my oscillating spindle sander. This will allow me to really
smooth out those curves and remove any of the
cut marks that were left by the router bit. I like to first start with
my larger diameter drum, and then work my way
down to the smaller ones. This way I can really
smooth out those lines and work my way down to the finer details. Now in hindsight, I
should have done this step before I glued the legs together, but we're gonna do those as one
large piece later on anyway, so I'll make sure that
everything gets nice and sanded. It would've just been easier to get into those tighter angles if they
weren't already assembled. So the next step was to glue the armrest onto our leg assemblies. And to do that, I'm just
gonna do the same thing, putting glue in the mortise
as well as on the tenon and the shoulder, and then
clamping everything up. This was a lot easier because
everything was already set to 90, so I just had to
apply a couple clamps, squeeze everything nice and
tight and take an hour lunch, like when I ate that clock yesterday. It was time consuming, especially when I went back for seconds. But seriously, all jokes aside, I'd say we're looking good,
and I guess I just did. So with my two sides 80% assembled, I went back over to the
spindle sander and smoothed out those curves we talked about earlier. Now these two transitions
at the top were offset by like a 16th of an inch. So I just used a spindle sander to re-smooth out those
curves and reshape 'em. From there, I could set
up another conspicuous clamping situation and
attach the backrest. Now again, these are the
extra large long tenons, so I wanna make sure I got
plenty of glue on them, but not so much that I'm
gonna blow out the joints. One other big difference between a domino and a mortise and tenon joint
is that a domino has grooves, plus a little extra space
within the mortise itself to help avoid blowing out the joint. You don't have as much of
a safety net when it comes to mortise and tenon joinery,
so you just wanna be careful. Then I can throw on two clamps and squeeze 'em nice and tight. From there, I could get to work on the backrest and seat slats. Now again, I've already milled these to the correct thickness, but what I'm gonna do is
just run them over my joiner real quick to get a
nice fresh edge on 'em. From there, I'll take my
pieces over to the table saw and rip them down into
three inch wide strips. Now if you do decide to build this chair, and you want to make this
center wider or smaller, you can change the width of these slats. I just went 'em with three
inch wide strips because I felt like that was gonna gimme
gimme the most strength. You could probably get away
with doing two and a half inch wide strips as well, if you
need to make it narrower. For me, the width of the
seat is gonna be 21 inches. So three is divisible by seven, and I feel like it just makes sense, even if there's only gonna be six slots. Don't overthink it. All right, so with the
man glitter removed, I could go ahead and
swap in my ripping blade for a crosscut blade. Now to cut all my strips
down to their final length, I'm just gonna use my miter gauge. So what I'll first do is trim
off one end, to make sure that I'm starting off with a square end. Then I'll flip the pieces over, butt them up against my
stop and cut them down to their final length. Now it's important to remember
that I'm gonna be cutting tenon on the end of my slats, so I'm gonna make sure that
I overcut all of my pieces by two inches. This gives me enough
room for a one inch tenon on each end of my slats, which will be plenty strong
for the seat and back rest. Now because I changed the
setup on my miter gauge so frequently, I just
use a rule to make sure that my stop is set to the correct length. If you don't change all the
settings on yours as frequently as I do, you don't have
to worry about this step, but I figured I'd just
add that in as a tip. All right, so next it was
time to head back over to the PantoRouter to cut in the mortises and then trim out our tenons. Now for the mortise on my cap pieces, they're only gonna be
a quarter inch thick. So the first thing I
needed to do was swap in my half inch bit for a quarter inch one. And then from there I can use some stops in the auxiliary fence to
set the center of the cut. And again, the cool
thing about this machine is that once everything
is really dialed in, it's easy enough to just
slide the auxiliary fence up or down depending on where
I need to put my mortise. So this whole process is super
smooth, and as you can see, it's pretty fast. So with all the slat mortises cut, I can go ahead and cut
the adjoining tenons. And to do that, I'm gonna
use this handy little jig that acts as a stop to set
the depth of the work piece. This way I can repeat the
depth on all of my other pieces knowing that I only have
to set the machine up once for one inch, and that all my tenons are gonna be the exact same length. And because we can right now, let's take a look at that machine
in action and slow motion. All right, I think that's
enough slow motion. Let's speed things up. Actually, that's a little too fast. Let's go ahead and slow it back down. And yeah, that looks pretty good. Nice. Done. All right, so with all
the slow-mo tenons cut, I could go ahead and
assemble the slatted seats and see how everything was fitting. And right off the machine, I'd say they were, again, 95% there. I did go back and use my
shoulder plane to clean up a few that were a bit tight,
but nothing too major. Next it was time to cut out my armrest, as well as my lower chair rail. So just like before, I
looked at my grain pattern to find something that really
complimented the curves as well as fell into those straight lines. And luckily for the taper on the armrest, there was a small knot in the board that went right with the curve. So I felt like the
board was just beckoning to be the armrest. And for the chair rail,
I'm only gonna cut out one that just goes on the front of the chair. I played with the design in putting one on the front
and on the rear of the chair, but I don't think they
actually need to be there. However, I think that the front one really ties everything together
from a design standpoint. But let me know what you guys
think down in the comments. If you like the chair rail in the front, comment, "Yes, chair rail." If you don't, say, "No chair rail." And don't worry, you won't hurt my feelings
if you don't like it. And for all of you that
start out your comment with "Yes" and "No chair rail," I'll reply to your comments
first, because as always, I know you guys are paying attention. All right, so my two
armrests and chair rail trimmed out over at the router table. I can take my armrest
back over to the table saw and trim the end square. Again, we wanna make sure
these are nice and square, so they meet up well with
our chair side armrests. Next it was finally time
to trim down the legs to their final length. And to do that, I'm just
gonna use my track saw. And this is the reason why
I've kept my legs oversized till now, because it's a
lot easier to trim both legs as one whole piece than
it is to trim each leg one at a time. Another option would be to
build a sled and cut these flat over at the table saw, but a
track saw does just as well. So that's the route I went. So once I've trimmed one
side to its final length, I take that piece and lay
it on top of my other side, and then mark out the
location for the cut. This ensures that both my sides
will sit at the same height and everything will align
for the rest of the project. The one thing to be mindful
of here is that these cuts are gonna set the angle on your chair. So if you want these to have
a relaxed, laid back look, then you wanna allow them
to have a steeper angle, which is what I'm going for on this chair. So with both sides cut, I could sandwich 'em
together and tilt them up so I could get a better look. Oops, sorry. Lemme get you a better view. Thank you, Past Shane. All right, so next it's
time to lay out the joinery for the seat and backrest. Now the layout for this
part was quite tricky, because I had to locate all
these markings in space, which we've gone over in other videos when I've covered the domino. So I'll sum up that two and
a half hours of layout time in the shop into the 15
seconds that you just watched. And with my domino set up, I can go ahead and cut in the mortises for my floating tenons. Now you may be wondering why
I chose to go with the Domino rather than the PantoRouter
for this section of the build. And the easy answer for that
is that it's due to the size of these pieces and the
location of the mortises. The mortises that I'm
plunging here would be pretty difficult to get
to on the PantoRouter. Now, I could have done
these before I assembled the whole chair, but I feel
like that's pretty risky. There's a chance that
things don't line up, and I just don't think
that that's worth the risk. And I can tell you that
it's not worth the risk, because I ran into that exact issue, even though I'm using the Domino. So even though I went through that whole two and a half hours of layout, I left one side of my
backrest undetermined. And that was because my plan
was to cut all my dominoes and then assemble the piece,
and then mark out the location for the other side of the backrest once everything was assembled. Then I could take everything apart and plunge those dominoes,
which you just saw me do, but I missed, by about
a quarter of an inch. So instead, I had to go back
and plug all those holes with some pieces that I cut
to the size of dominoes. And honestly, there was a
little frustration there, but if I didn't put that
into a YouTube video, you'd probably never know they were there. And that's because the
majority of those plugs are gonna be hidden by
the actual backrest. So all that's to say that
it's much easier to cut these mortises with a Domino than
it is with a PantoRouter. But they're still a challenge. And that whole situation was
like reading a horror story in braille. It felt like something bad was coming, but I couldn't see it at all. All right, so next I
could focus my attention on that front rail. And since my rail is going
to meet up with my slats in the front, I need to cut a bevel on it that matches the front angle of my legs. Now, to be fully honest
with you, at this point, I have no idea what this angle is. I just used my bevel
gauge to grab the angle off the front of the leg and just set my table saw
blade to that exact angle. From there, I just used the feather board to help keep my piece against the fence while I cut it and give it a light trim. Then I could check the fit
and clamp my piece in place so that I could lay out the dominoes. Here I'll just reference
off a small tick mark that I'll put on the leg
as well as the front rail. And then from there I
could grab the domino and plunge in my last mortises. (drill whining)
And hey Shane, you got a little something
there on your shirt. And with that last plunge, the joinery portion of
this build is complete. So from there, we really need to finesse
and fine tune these pieces. So the first thing I'm gonna do is clean up all the edges of my slats. And to do that, I'm just gonna
use my number four smoother. What this does is it
removes all those saw marks and gives me a nice smooth
edge for the router table when we cut the roundovers in a second. And a lot of you may be thinking, "Why would you worry about planing them "if you're just gonna round them over?" And the answer to that is
that we wanna start out with the best surface we can
for all of our processes. So hand planing all these
saw marks is gonna leave us with a smoother edge for
that bearing to ride against, which will ultimately give
us a better roundover, and woodworking all those
little steps combined for a better product. Next, I could drop in my
quarter inch roundover bit over at the router table. And what I'm gonna do is give
all my slats a quarter inch roundover on all four sides,
while making sure to avoid any of the joints that
are gonna come in contact with the chair sides. We don't wanna round those over. We want them to be nice and flat, which is why you saw me hand
planing those earlier too. Oh, and before I forget, if you guys wanna follow all
the processes I do in the shop and stay up to date on what's going on, be sure to follow me over on Instagram, @timberbiscuitwoodwork That'll keep you in the loop. So with all my roundovers sanded down, I could go ahead and glue
all my slats in place. And to do that, I'm gonna do
the same thing we did earlier where we apply a little
glue into the mortise, a little glue on the tenon, and then pop everything in place. Now the one thing I'll
say is that gluing up six mortise and tenon joints at one
time was a little stressful, only because I didn't want
the glue to start setting up before I got everything done. And if I wasn't trying
to use a dark wood glue to help conceal some of that squeeze out, I would use something
like Titebond II Extend where it would give me a
little bit more working time. And again, we've covered
that in past videos, but for now we'll stick with
the dark stuff and get it done. Whew. From there I can just repeat
that same process on the larger seat portion, and that'll
be a wrap on the slats. Unfortunately, on this one,
I did snag myself a splinter, but don't worry, it's just like when I
ran into that lamp post, it was a light injury. So while the glue set up on those, I went ahead and sanded
all the parts for my sides. Now here I had to hand
sculpt the top of the chair, just so that it had a nice natural flow. And then I traced out the
profile onto the other chair and followed that same line. And since all that took about an hour, I had plenty of time to pop
the clamps off the slats and give them a quick sanding. And then from there I could
flush up any of the edges that may have shifted a
bit during the glue up. Next it was time to add
the roundover profile to the edges of the remaining chair parts. Now this part was a little tricky, because there was some parts
that I needed to avoid. So I just used some blue tape
to give myself an indicator to avoid those areas. We don't wanna roundover
the parts where the armrest is going to meet up, because then we would
have a weird gap there. Also, because the diameter of the bearing is a bit wider than those corners, we're gonna have to
round those over by hand, which we'll go over here in just a second. But while I wrap up some
of those finishing touches, let me just take a moment
to say that if you guys are enjoying these videos and
you wanna support the channel, I'd like to invite you to join my Patreon. There you'll get discount
codes for plans and merch, some other free stuff, and an
invite to the Discord server, where we chat about what
you guys got going on, what I got going on,
and monthly live chats. Plus, I'm always trying
to figure out other ways to get you guys involved. So if that's something
that you're interested in, check out the link in the description. And again, to all those
who've already joined, thank you guys so much for
your continued support. Your contributions go directly
towards making these videos. All right, back to the details. So to get in those tight
corners we talked about earlier, I'm just gonna use a really small rasp to roundover those edges. This'll taper 'em down and
tuck 'em in pretty nicely. And then from there, I can turn my attention towards the feet. Now we've gone over this in pretty much every furniture piece
that I've ever built, but I think it's super
important to highlight again that we want to chamfer those feet. And I'm thinking about
making that a T-shirt, something funny about
furniture or foot fetish, but I don't know, lemme
know if that's something you guys would be interested in. So once I completed the
tear out prevention, I could go ahead and glue on
the armrest, and I'm just gonna use some blue tape here to
avoid any of that squeeze out that might get tucked
underneath that armrest, 'cause cleaning it up from that angle could be a bit of a challenge. So with a healthy amount of glue applied, I could stick on the armrest
and apply a couple clamps to hold everything in place. Now, gluing face to an edge this wide was a little bit slippery, so I just took my time and
went one clamp at a time. I don't use any seasoning in
my shop, that's for dinner. So with the clamps removed, I
could sand everything flush, and roundover any remaining edges. Then from there I could apply my mark, and it was time for the glue up. And I was gonna put a joke
about a boomerang in here, but I forgot it. Don't worry, it'll come back to me. From there, we could go ahead
and glue everything together. Now because I already glued
the tenons into the seat and backrest, this came
together pretty easily. Again, all I did was apply
a little glue to the mortise and tenon and squeeze everything
together with some clamps, which is great because
we're on the home stretch. And that was about as intense
as I thought it was gonna be. So for the finish on the chair, I'm gonna be using Rubio Monocoat Pure. And that's again because
that's the same finish we used on the table in the last build, and we want these finishes to match. Not to mention, from that
project we have some left over, so it makes sense to use it. So the application goes
exactly the same way, where we water pop everything, then sand up to 180 grit lightly, vacuum it all down, and then apply a little
bit of mineral spirits. This really smooths out that surface, and gives us a nice,
clean area to work with. And then from there air it
can mix three parts of part A to one part of part B, and combine. The application for Rubio
Monocoat is super easy. I just use a Scotch-Brite pad to apply it, and then wait about 10 minutes, and wipe everything off with a shop towel. Once it was dry, I could add
the cushions my wife made, and cue the beauty shots. (mellow music beginning) I, for one, absolutely love this chair. I think the grain pattern
flows really nicely between each section,
and it really emphasizes that linear lean, the curves
are subtle and intentional, and I feel like everything
makes sense with this piece. The extruded armrests give a
nice landing pad for the elbow, and I feel like that
front rail really helps to pull everything together. Not to mention, I really dig that subtle
overhang on the chair seat. The curved handrails work really well for getting up and down
from this little lounger, which is great because no one wants to put a bunch of effort in when
they're trying to relax. That's like using a double
negative, a big no-no. So if you enjoyed this build, and you wanna see others like
it, make sure you subscribe. Check out this video over here next. And like always, I knew this would work,
and I'll see you next time. (mellow music continuing) (mellow music ending)
