This Hand Tool Till is Absolutely GENIUS

like many Woodworkers I've got a lot of hand tools and lately I've just been hanging them wherever I see a space on the wall so today I want to give them a home or centered in the wood shop so I'm not climbing over hoses to get to them so let's get to work on Timber biscuit so like any project this one starts with choosing my lumber and Milling it down and for this one I'm going to be using some four quarter Walnut and some four quarter charity so here I'm just having a good time Milling it down to its rough thickness which is a little over 5 8 of an inch for my Walnut and a little over three quarters of an inch for my cherry and this just gives me a little bit of breathing room when it comes to sanding and hand planting later on I want to be able to finesse the fit and if I go for the exact thickness now it's going to give me issues later so once I finished skip playing my boards I could go over to the jointer check it for square and then join a clean Edge on them and for the design of this till I'm making this is especially important because with any of the boards are a little too long a little wide or a little out of whack it's going to be compounded on every Edge so I'm trying to shoot for Perfection here or at least within a tolerance of a 64th of an inch so here I'm ripping my boards down again giving them that 64th of an inch extra space so that I can plane back to that nice clean Edge by hand later on I mean what's the point of having hand tools if you don't use them right so earlier I mentioned that I'm using cherry and walnut for this project and that's because I'm in the process of updating my whole shop using those two Lumbers I've got a really large project in the works right now as you'll be able to see by this huge stack of lumber behind me but that's for the next video so let's get back to work on this one oh and as always if you guys want the plans for this till just let me know down in the comments and I'll post it in the community as well as the description when it's available just know that your plans may need to be adjusted a bit based on the dimension of your own planes though I did Design This with that in mind and I think it should fit most planes all right so now that I have all my boards ripped to rough width I can go ahead and cross cut them down to their final length and I just used my miter gauge here with a stop so that I could really dial in that final length now my two side pieces are way too long for my miter gauge so I'll go ahead and Mark those out now and then I'll use my cross cut sled to cut them out one thing to keep in mind when you're marking things out with a tape measure is to try to use the same tape measure for your entire project and this is because measurements can vary from tape measure to tape measure so to be as consistent as you can just stick with one and before you ask yes I use Darth Vader's favorite measurement system in the shop you know Imperial but I know that everyone in the world has a preference so let me know what your favorite unit is down in the comments now that I've got all my measurements laid out I could go ahead and trim down my sides over at the cross cut slit and what I'm going to do here is just sneak up to that line so that I don't go over my cut and when I'm done I've got a neat stack of boards ready for the next step nice all right so that next step is to go ahead and cut out all my curves for my vertical pieces and to do that I'm just going to use some templates that I carved out over at the CNC so once I have my templates attached to my work pieces I could then use my bandsaw to rough trim them out and since we're going to be using the router table to flush trim these here we're just shooting for about an eighth of an inch to a quarter inch of material aiming for the Lesser now this is my first time using this jig for a new project but basically what it does it gives me a reference point to push my work piece against when I'm cutting the curves this way I don't have to think about going inside or outside my line I just have to push it through the blade and with my templates rough trimmed I could bring them over to the router table to flush trim them and to do that I'll just use this beefy flush trim bit to get everything nice and smooth now the Grain on these pieces does run in a few different directions so that's where this compression bit really comes in handy if you're interested in getting one for yourself I'll leave a link down in the description so once I have my initial templates all flushed out I could take the left side of the till attach it to the right side and repeat the process again I'm going to use my jig to cut a consistent clean Edge and then bring everything over to the router table and flush trim it out side note just be careful routing end grain like this even with a compression bit things can still get messy all right so the routing done I could finally get some hand tool work in so here I'm going to use my spoke shave to finesse those curves and give me nice smooth lines and then from there I'm going to use my number four to clean up those edges now it's really nice when a hand plane works and what that really comes down to is just having a really sharp blade and a really flat bottom I will say that the tool itself does make a marginal difference as well in my experience nicer tools give me a nicer finish but you can still get exceptional results with something less expensive but I know nobody wants to break the bank on one plane so let me know what you think down in the comments I feel like there's a common misconception in woodworking where people think oh if I had that tool I could make it too but when I first started woodworking I didn't own a lot of tools I was just ambitious in what I wanted to build and made it happen so I think if you want to be a good woodworker you just have to think outside the box so with all my vertical pieces done I can move on to the shelves and I'm gonna plane these a little less than my sides because I want to make sure that I have enough material to plane back to once the case is assembled if you saw my perfect cabinet video you already know what I mean but if not don't worry we'll get to it here in a second but hey if you're enjoying this video please give it a like it really helps me a ton and allows the video to reach new people thanks for your support all right so the next step was to glue up the panel that was going to make my chisel backboard and this is where the Cherry comes into play I'm using the Cherry as an accent for the build so that I can get some contrast to the Walnut and gives me something to pop off of I just got some new chisels in which is partially what's prompting this build so this panel will contrast with them so let's add a few parallel clamps on I threw on a couple calls to keep things flat and from there we can move on to the saw holder now I don't own a bunch of saws but I want to give myself plenty of room for expansion in the future so what I'm gonna do is give myself five slots for traditional American saws as well as five slots for Japanese pole saws so what I'm doing here is just cutting the kerf in for those saw blades and since the Japanese saws will sit vertically I'll leave a larger section for those and since the American push stalls will lean in I leave a smaller section for them some of the Japanese saws have a thin brace that runs along the spine so I need to leave a little bit of a larger curve for those saws so I just use my calipers to take a measurement off the spine of mine and here I'm cutting in that Gap now not all these saws share the same width some of the blades are thicker some of the blades are thinner so I'm going to leave a few of the curves alone this way I can trim them out later on when I get new Saws and since I'll be mounting the till using a French cleat I cut in a small section of the vertical partition to give me clearance to mount it then from there it was on to laying out the joinery and for the joinery on this one I'm going to be using dominoes now in other cabinets I've used dados stop dados mortis and Tenon and dovetail joints but for this one I'm using floating tenons because I have a ton of mortise and Tenon joints coming on the next project and I wanted to finish this one in a weekend plus as many of you know I love Simplicity when it comes to design so I think hiding the joint really accentuates that and all that's to say if you choose to build this project you can use whatever joinery you like so once I spend a few hours laying out on my dominoes I could finally start plowing in the mortises and to do that I'm just going to use a reference block I made to make sure that my Domino is lined up and then plunge away I love handy little jigs like this that lessen the amount of errors that you can make for instance if I know my block is lined up on the edges of my board here then I know I'm not going to miss my placement and hey if you're enjoying this video and you want to see more like it be sure to subscribe this way you won't miss the Mark or another video again and trust me you don't want to miss the next one yeah I'm looking at you all right back to work actually with that the largest portion of his cabinet joinery is done now because the majority of this cabinet is 5 8 in thickness I didn't just use a standard size Domino so I'm going to trim down my dominoes for the mortise depth that I had to use and I'll just do that over at the bandsaw by inserting a domino into a cut mortise and using the scrap to hold it while I trim it down from there I could start addressing my cherry boards and I'm going to start by ripping down the panel that we glued up earlier this will give me both the backer panel for my chisels as well as the board I'm using for my French cleat so once I have my panel ripped down to rough width I could use my miter gauge which was set to my previous setting to cut it to final length and then from there I'll tilt my blade to 45 degrees or thereabouts and rip it down the center so that I can create my two French cleat pieces and the reason these don't have to be 45 degrees is because the angles are automatically complements of each other and then with that I can cut in the remaining joinery for the backer panel and the French cleat and just as a side note if you do choose to use dominoes make sure that you pay attention to which side of the board your Domino is going in you're going to want to make sure that your joints line up at the end so align the faces accordingly next it was time for some glue and for this case I'm going to assemble the shelves and vertical partition with dominoes first this way I don't have to worry about them when I'm doing the final assembly later on I found that this really alleviates a lot of the stress and tension that comes up for a full glue up so while those get set up let's get to work on that chisel rack so here I'm just trimming down one more piece of cherry about four inches smaller than the interior with the case does she give me plenty of room for about 10 chisels as well as my Mallet now if you have more or less chisels in your set you may need to adjust the width of these holes but this also gives me some room for expansion so I think 10 is a good number now I mentioned earlier that I just got a set of new chisels and mine are the western style but I also know people love the Japanese style so let me know what your preference is down in the comments so once I had my holes all marked out I could use my drill press and a forstner bit to plunge all the holes and my holes are going to vary slightly because I have a set of bench chisels as well as a set of mortising chisels so next I could take the whole piece over to the bandsaw to take a small slit out of the front this will allow the chisels to clear the shelves so they can easily come in and out of the rack just make sure these gaps are wide enough to fit the neck otherwise like a shirt on Berry bonds they just won't fit so once I had all my gaps cut I could take the whole piece over to the router table and put a round over on the inside now you could do a round over or a chamfer here I decided to go with a round over because that's the edge treatment that I'm going to carry through the remainder of this case doing this allows the chisels to Nestle into the holder rather than sitting proud the socket or bolster is usually tapered so this makes for a nice compliment since the bearing on my round over a bit is a little too wide to accommodate the small slits I just decided to cut that edge treatment by hand plus it gives me a good excuse to break in these new chisels and check that out like a glove all right so my next step was to cut in the joinery to attach the rack and to do that again I'm going to turn to the Domino and I'll just use three dominoes here which will give me plenty of strength since the chisels don't really wail that much another option here might be screws from the back side if you ever feel like you're going to need to alter the holder I don't feel like that's going to be an issue so I didn't worry about it here yeah that'll do all right so next it was time for The Edge treatment and again to do that I'm just going to use a round over bit and here I'm only rounding over the bottom side of all my shelves and the inside of all my side pieces I didn't put an edge treatment on the vertical partition because I think it works well as is and the round overs just don't make sense there and the idea behind putting a round over on only one Edge adds a little visual interest and drama to the piece at least that's the plan Edge treatments can really make or break a piece a subtle round over here or a chamfer I think looks really good but an OG bit may not be the best solution again that's personal preference but I think you guys get the idea so that wrapped up I could turn my attention to the saw portion of the till now I'm going for a real minimalist design on this piece so I don't really want big saw holders impacting that my solution for holding the western style saws in place is to use some magnets so what I needed to do was drill a couple of shallow holes and then take my stick over to the table saw to trim out a few blocks in total I'll need five for the five western style saw curves and then from there I can use some CA glue to glue in a couple of rare earth magnets now if for whatever reason these magnets don't work out in the future I can always go back and add a thin strip to the lower area of the handle on the sawtill but in my testing I think these are going to do just fine however if that changes I'll definitely let you guys know so once I had all my pieces sanded up to 220 I go ahead and start gluing things together and the first thing I'll glue on are my magnetic blocks again for this I'm just going to use some CA glue and activator then from there we could get on to assembling the rest of the case and for that I'm going to use type on extend so that it gives me a little bit more open time and the Catalyst for that won't alter my cherry giving me those ugly red glue lines we've talked about this before but just as a quick refresher sometimes type on 2 can leave a red glue line at your joint seam when working with cherry so this will help us avoid that so those types of tips are helpful the videos you see here are valuable and you want to support the channel I'd like to invite you to join my patreon there you'll get discount codes on plans and merch an invite to the Discord server plus a few free welcome gifts and I'm constantly trying to figure out new ways to get you guys involved with one-on-ones and meetups so if that's something you're interested in check out the link in the description and if you can't today no pressure but to those of you who've already joined your contribution allows me to continue to do this so thank you so much for your support it means the world alright so once I plane down the front of the case all I had to do was toss on my mark and start applying the 10 finish for this one I'm going to be using the same penetrating oil that I use on a tool cabinet from last video I think it really brings out the natural warmth in the Cherry and walnut plus it adds a little bit of protection though let's be honest this thing's designed to hold tools that are designed to cut wood so it might take a little abuse and as always I'll leave links to the tools and items I've used in this video in the description below just full disclosure I do get a few pennies if you do decide to buy but I would never recommend anything that I don't actually use myself alright so with the finished dry my French cleat attached to the wall I could go ahead and mount the till now I did paint the back of my wall black to add a little bit more contrast and I think it looks pretty sweet but what was even sweeter was finally getting all these tools in one place on the wall I can honestly say I don't think there's anything I would change about this tilt for right now it suits my needs perfectly it allows for all my tools to live in one place so I'm not tripping over things in the shop trying to get to them and honestly it just looks really clean I think that also says something about the tools it holds they serve a purpose just like this too yeah you could make multiple tills to hold all these tools but I don't think I need that at least not right now something this all in one solution is the way to go so if you enjoyed this video and you want to see other Solutions like this be sure to subscribe check out this video over here next and like always I'll see you next time foreign [Music]

Channel: Timber Biscuit Woodworks

Views: 69,142

Keywords: chisel rack, chisel storage, diy, fine woodworking, hand plane storage, hand plane till, hand tool cabinet, hand tool storage, hand tool till, hand tool woodworking, hand tools, hanging tool cabinet, how to build, how to build a tool cabinet, how to make, plane till, saw storage, saw till, shop furniture, tool cabinet, tool organization, tool storage, tool storage cabinet, tool storage woodworking, traditional woodworking, wood working, woodworking, woodworking project

Id: JNJYUna7g5g

Length: 13min 34sec (814 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 25 2022