How to build a dining table that will last forever.

there's no getting around it this was a heavy able the table top itself for this white oak monster was built off-site because well my shop is too small and this thing was flipping huge I'm pretty sure it weighed more than that and I would have been able to move it myself anyway we even had to use a forklift to load it into my truck where there may or may not have been an incident it was a challenge at every turn to move this thing around it even required the old slipper Shuffle just to get it in the house to deliver it and the table base well that was no slouch either it had a ton of glue UPS weighed in at over 140 pounds and was quite awkward to maneuver as you can see oh and I even tried a new finish on this table so be sure to stay tuned for that now if I had to build this table all over finally build the table and shut up already pair point eight quarter rifs on White Oak that's what we're making this table out of I'm just laying out the parts for my top here trying to get the length and then using the off cuts to incorporate into the base so I'll just rip those off with this Cirque saw here with the help of Tim from True trade grabbing the off cut so they don't Dent the floor and then after some quick measurements I realized oh boy I didn't get enough material which is just annoying because I'll have to make another trip to the lumber yard so first step was to start Milling all these boards up getting one face nice and flat getting my first Splinter that's always a joy and once I had one face flat on the Joiner I could head to the planer and get the other face nice and flat and parallel as well now even though we're starting at eight quarter here there's going to be multiple glue ups and multiple flattening sessions so we'll probably get down to about an inch and three quarter so after the first session of Milling stack and sticker let this acclimate and dry and move and do whatever it's got to do luckily it didn't really move at all so a day or two later I was able to join one Edge on all of them take them to the table saw and get a nice parallel edge with that I took that back to the Joiner so then I had two nice jointed parallel edges ready for glue up but before I could glue anything up I needed to arrange all my boards so they were pleasing to the eye now this may seem trivial to some but to me it's always distracting when you look at a table top and there's no flow to the Grain and it just looks like all the boards were slapped together so take the time move things around and look at them from every angle and I mean every angle low high near far whatever you got to do and see what looks best in the end you'll be very glad you did okay maybe you don't have to get that close but then you can do snow angels now we could start slinging oh oh don't run out on me oh come on not now all right I'm gonna have to borrow Tim's glue here real quick don't tell them come on oh on that's what I get for stealing someone else's glue gate 2023. well there was sufficient enough glue on there anyway so with a little silicone roller spread it all around then I could get these things clamped up and to keep those iron pipes out of the glue lines and from staining the wood I just put some clear tape down another trick is to put biscuits under each end which elevates the pipe off the surface either way now with that glue up it was a little bit tricky trying to keep those boards all aligned I didn't use my normal Domino process but on this one I did it was much easier for the boards to come together and so I wasn't fighting a huge panel glue up I did this in three sections so once those were dry I could run one side through the thickness planer just to get a nice flat surface these will need to be flattened again on the CNC once the whole thing is glued up then over to the Joiner to get a nice Square Edge and prep for the next stage of glue up and a huge thanks again to Tim and Mike at true trade carpentry for letting me take over the center of their shop for a number of weeks on my recent projects so once I had some glue slathered all over this Edge I could then slide it into those dominoes and get some clamps on there so much fun and here I'm using that biscuit trick I mentioned earlier just to elevate that clamp up and keep it out of the glue line and I added a few more clamps just to be on the safe side and while that was drying I headed over to the client's house with a piece of cardboard to make a template for those angled Corners I wanted to make sure those match that profile exactly and there it is all trimmed up nice now to trim a little bit of weight off this second glue up I just grabbed the track saw and nipped off the ends now it's still oversized but I'm just trying to eliminate as much weight as possible in this process now with my highly technical hand-drawn sketch with all my Dimensions I'm just double checking that my template matches that and seeing how big my third section of glue up needs to be so that the table top is the correct width and while I carry that over Tim was kind enough to remind Ryan that we're filming well while you're standing there why don't you help me ah very nice so with that up on the horsies we could trim a little more weight off of here not not much but you know about an inch that every ounce counts and I ran out of time that day so the next morning while Tim enjoyed his fine espresso I could get this glued up and you could help me get it in place and then we could start slinging some big boy clamps and once that was sufficiently dried I could get it out of the clamps and take this one for a little gallop rear shoe may need replacing and with Tim's help we could slide this right over onto the bed of the CNC and flatten this thing and then with this big old bit from bits and bits this Laguna Leviathan could get to work now there was really only about a sixteenth of an inch that needed to come off this thing was pretty flat and that's also the beauty of gluing up in multiple sections as long as each of those sections is nice and flat and it should just take minimal flattening and minimal flattening didn't necessarily translate to minimal sanding Drew on all my pencil lines and went up 80 100 and up to 120 grit on both sides now I could do my final trimming to the template that I had made now I'm going for a one inch overhang on all three sides so I set my little double square to one inch on that front edge and then brought my template up to it and then I took just a one inch piece of scrap wood and butted that up to my template and got my one inch overhang on those miter it ends as well as the left and the right side I continued those layout lines all the way down the full length of each Edge and then using the track saw I could make my cuts now I did one end first and then before trimming the other end I just made sure I was perfectly square and that my initial layout was accurate so with everything checked I could make that cut on the edge man that's a nice smooth cut and then I could cut my little 45s well they're not really 45s let's just call them angled Cuts here they're a little bit different on both of them due to the construction of the banquet and then just using the sand I'm rounding over those Corners just a little bit and then with an eighth inch nope a six nope eighth inch round over bit in my router I went all the way around the top Edge and the bottom Edge and then it was time to do the layout for the table base so I started by finding a center line and drawing diagonals and then a square line as well right through the middle now I made this little cardboard prototype to the exact size that I wanted it to be and then with this taped down in place it not only gave me a kind of idea of what the table is going to look like but then I could Mark out where my brackets needed to be based on where the ends of the base well ended now I went for a 12 inch overhang from the base on all four corners that should be sufficient enough for leg room and then using a bevel gauge and setting it out on those layout lines my angle plate tells me that that is 10 degrees or 80 degrees so 10 degrees off of 90 and the other was 100 which was 10 degrees off 90 in the other direction now I used some spacers here because I wanted to be in two and three quarters from the edge of that end table leg and then the bracket itself is going to be two and a half inches so I laid out all four corners this took a little while because everything has to be perfectly accurate and in the right place then it was time to break out the shaper origin so I laid down some Domino tape I created this file super quickly right in the actual interface of the machine and then using a quarter inch down cut bit I created the outline for the actual recess and then finished up with a bigger bit in a trim router this makes quite a mess so I did that on all four of those smaller recesses did a quick cleanup and then worked on the center recess now this one was much larger because it needs to connect all four branches of the table base so I actually had to use a few routers on this one because the Gap was so wide I needed a wider base plate that I could peel off the tape and do a final sanding just going around making sure where I bumped into it with my belt Etc that was all cleaned up then it was time to apply the Finish Rubio monocoat in Cotton white this looks really good on White Oak because people just love that white wash look so I'm starting on the bottom here just using a plastic spreader here to distribute the Finish evenly all around and with a white Scotch Brite pad attached to my orbital sander I worked that finish in all around now make sure you don't put the vacuum on when you do this then it was time to rub off all the excess and since this took so long because it's such a large area it started to tack up on me quicker than I had hoped so this was a bit of a process and a bit of a workout to get this all off and cleaned then we could flip it over and do the same process on the front or the top I guess in this case and I gotta tell you I was about halfway wiping off this top with my Fitbit buzzed and told me to keep going I was getting Zone minutes then it was time to take a break so I just headed next door to see Ryan at liquid Metalworks where he's going to laser cut the brackets for mounting the table base to the table top at a quarter inch steel you Zapped these out in about three minutes and they were finished cutting they come out this little conveyor belt piping hot by the way so do not touch them now back at my shop I could take my museum quality cardboard template for my base and start laying out my pieces and labeling everything and getting ready to cut them and I guess glue them up now since all of these leg parts needed to be double thick I had a lot of glue ups to do and I also realized that this point that I was two pieces short for those big top rails now since I have to laminate these boards into double thick material I'm using some dominoes here so that they don't slip and slide all over the place when I apply glue and then clamps a lot of people suggest using salt and toenail clippings to give you a grip when you clamp these together I've just never had any luck using any other method than these dominoes because once these are locked in place it cannot move and then the clampathon begins under the stern eye of well Sleepy Eye of Lola and Jerry in the background so many clamps so many clamps and I had to do this several times over a couple days to give me the requisite number oh that's gotta hurt here we go all of our laminated glued up pieces then it was down to True trade to give me one flat face as well as one square Edge on all of these boards my Joiner just gets a little funky on the long one so I really needed to be sure these are perfectly Square so back at my shop then I could run the parallel face and the parallel Edge through the machine so I have perfectly squared equally Dimension stock that's super important here is everything needs to be the exact same dimension for your joinery to work especially on the giant half flaps we're going to do and the double stack Domino joinery we're going to do on the angles of the legs when deciding on the splay angle for this table base I just decided on 15 degrees I thought it looked best to the eye so I set my miter saw to 15. I'm gonna make the cut at only one end of both of the bottom rails I don't want to cut these to length just yet because I want to make sure I double check all my sizing with one cut made then I could Loosely put my sides in place and Mark those out I always like to draw with a pencil line in which direction that cut needs to be made this will eliminate any confusion or miscuts then back at the miter saw I make those cuts again we're only cutting one end of these side pieces in this case it's the bottom hello Jerry because now I'm going to use my square and my tape measure to get the exact height of this now this table is a little bit higher than normal because the bench sheets are going to have three inch cushions so our base height needs to be 31 inches typically a dining table is 30 inches to the top so we're going to be 31 inches to the top of the base and then I flip it up so it's standing vertically and just double check my measurement once that checks out I can set up a stop block at my miter station and then cut all four of these side legs now for all these joints to come together nice and square with no gaps you really need a reliable saw that's going to give you an accurate cut and they came out nice and clean what do you think Jerry Lola nothing now I can lay out from my top rails with a pencil Mark and a bevel gauge just to draw where I needed to make that cut you can head back to the miter saw set up a stop block again and make those cuts so with the side pieces and the long top rails done nothing left to do but the bottom rails so I Mark those cut those and then back to the bench where we could slap them down and do a quick dry fit see how this is going to fit together I think that looks pretty good so now we can lay out for our dominoes and then start dominoing now I'm doing a double stack here so two on top two on the bottom that should give maximum strength to these joints I'm using 12 by 100 Dominoes so 12 millimeter by a hundred millimeter long which means 50 millimeters into each piece and I'm doing all of these On The Tight setting none are on the loose if your layout is correct and accurate there really shouldn't be any need to do any on the loose setting and if you were doing a traditional mortise and Tenon you wouldn't make two of them tight and two of them loose I really want a nice tight fit with no slop on All Points of joinery here so with a few light Taps of the Mallet these joints come together and then grabbing one of my cut off wedges from when I cut the angles on every piece I could clamp that in place and you can see it's nice and tight so after an unprecedented spike in prices over the last year it appears that lumber prices have finally come down a little bit now this is convenient if you're just doing a woodworking project but if you're in the market to build a new home or do a renovation you are still facing high costs for all materials wiring Plumbing concrete drywall appliances and in the current economic landscape these costs are really hard to overcome now according to a bank rate survey over one-third of Americans have more credit card debt than emergency savings that's up 22 percent in just one year and it's not just bad Investments that are putting us in debt and causing Financial stress there were days last year when 99 of stocks lost value wait 99 Jerry fact check he actually has a master's degree in economics so now across the board whether it was stocks bonds real estate crypto most major markets are coming off their worst year since 2008 and this is why some of the wealthiest Americans and their money managers have slowly but surely changed their strategy they're moving from Investments that people like you and I can access in allocating Millions to exclusive alternative real assets like Fine Art now what makes art most unique as an investment is its low correlation to traditional ones it explains why this past November when most markets were on route to their worst year since the global financial crisis of 2008 that the Art Market had its biggest auction season ever and thanks to our friends at Masterworks art investing isn't just for millionaires anymore so far they've sold over 45 million dollars worth of artwork and distributed the net proceeds to investors they've removed the legwork the auction process and the research from the equation not to mention each of their exits thus far has delivered positive net returns to their investors so it's easy to see why over 700 000 people have signed up now expenses are still high across the board so demand is still picking up but my subscribers can skip the wait list by clicking the link in the description below so check it out and thanks to Masterworks for sponsoring this video okay so now I've disassembled one of these and we're going to lay out the joinery for our half laps so one thing we need to be very mindful of is which piece is going to overlap which piece in this case my cross sections here are going to come down and overlap this bottom piece and this top piece so we always want to Mark where we're going to be removing material so that we don't make the mistake and make two identical pieces actually Don is in SketchUp I've taken the dimensions of my top Rail and bottom rail and laid them out exactly and then dimensioned what they should be on each leg that way I know when I lay it out that it is correct okay so the first thing I'm going to do is Mark my Center carry that line all the way around now with my bevel gauge set at 40 degrees I'm going to go from the bottom of the center line there and then this side of the center line here [Music] okay so there's our dead center and where this line and this line intersect that's what we want to work off of so I'm going to take that same one inch and 11 16 block and then my bevel gauge here and slide these over to where that meets those two intersecting lines and then the same thing in the other direction before I draw that line I'm just going to take my piece here and just make sure that it was right on the edge of that line so there we go now based on these measurements we pulled in SketchUp I'm just going to double check so the Long Point should be 17 and 13 16. as you can see right on the nose 17 and 13 16. then in this direction should be 17 and 3 16 right there off by the width of a pencil line and since the thickness of our material here is four and a half we want to go halfway which is two and a quarter so I'll take my one two four block two inch Direction and then add a quarter inch I repeated the same layout process on the top rails and then double check my measurements to the drawing that I had pulled in SketchUp everything looked good now we can hog out the majority of this waste material here and then we'll make a template and really fine tune it for a nice tight fit so with my dado stack installed and my miter gauge set to 10 degrees I could start making my cuts now to get the full depth of this cut with this dado stack was really pushing the limits of the height of the saw so I just went as high as was comfortable and I knew I was going to remove the rest with a router so after several passes it eliminated a ton of that waste material so then we could head back to the bench and make a quick router template so just some scrap plywood here running a few along the edge vertically and then a couple across that joint horizontally setting them to 10 degrees pre-drilling some holes and then driving some screws then using one of my actual pieces I could set the width of my template so it's an exact fit and with that piece sandwiched in there then I could just drive some screws as you can see I have a couple sets of holes there the first set I wasn't exactly happy with how tight it was but that's much better alright so you can see pencil line there pencil line on the left side so now we're just gonna get that lined up now I could clamp this jig in place but since these screw holes will never be seen they'll be covered by the half lap joint I just feel much more secure and safe having this thing screwed in on both sides now we can break out the ultimate pattern bit from bits and bits and start cleaning up this half lap joint so I'm just riding that bearing along our plywood template first on both sides then I can lower the bit and go a little bit deeper until I get to the point where I need to remove that template now I did have a collet Extender on my router in order to get that full depth that I needed so I'll leave a link below to what I'm using it's a CMT call it extender so with the template removed that allows that router bit to go even deeper it took several passes to get to the exact depth I want there's no reason to try to hog all this out in one pass just go nice and smooth taking light passes to get a nice clean cut I'm going to double check the fifth here yeah yeah that will go I just don't want to jam it in there too many times if you dry fit this joint pull it out put it down put it up I mean you're going to end up making these sides loose and rounding over these top corners so let's get this one excavated and then we'll do a dry fit I repeated the same process of screwing my template in place going as far down as I could and then removing the template and then doing my final passes until that depth of two and a quarter inches was achieved and now to double check with a dry fit and it was definitely a little bit on the tight side so grab my mallet and rather than rattle Cherry's marbles with the smacking of this Mallet I moved him out of the way and sent it home alright so that's almost a little tighter than I like it but that's okay and sometimes it's just a matter of sanding one of the faces just a little bit just to take off a whisker material and it'll go together a lot easier the sun do these other ones well there's no real reason to go through the whole process again and show you did it exactly the same until that final cleanup pass and then a dry fit all right so now what sand everything yeah all right yep foreign Jerry you want to lend a paw with uh some sanding here all right so just a little sanding tip on these pieces that go up you sand each piece individually it's very possible that you won't even notice that the sander will slightly round this over this pad isn't perfectly hard it's a hard Pad but there's a little bit of flex to it and since it's a six inch pad and this is only three and three quarter wide three and a half wide it's definitely going to have the tendency to rock if you're not perfectly centered what I've done is I've clamped two pieces together and also drawn a very light line here of where my top and bottom rail start so I'm going to use the sander here but as I get closer to this Edge I'm just going to do this by hand I'm not even going to sand where this glue joint is going to be because if these get rounded over at all when you try to clamp this together you will see a gap there it'll be tight in the middle but there'll be a gap on either side so after all that work you went through of cutting and perfect joinery it all flies by the wayside in two seconds with this so I did all that sanding you don't really need to see it and now it was time for glue up so I start by putting glue in the mortises on one side of the joint I like to get one side taken care of just to eliminate any more stress during the glue up now I am going to be using epoxy to give me more open time but this PVA glue is perfect just to get this set and get these dominoes in place now since these joints are at that 10 degree angle I'm gluing on the off Cuts so I have some nice clamping blocks which will give me 90 degree pressure with my clamps Across The Joint so just using some green tape and some CA glue that will secure these in place [Music] total boat baby oh yeah total boat thick so thickened epoxy love this stuff I think so it's thick it doesn't run all over the place gives me plenty of open time 30 to 45 minutes depending on your environmental conditions spread it all around making sure I stay away from my pencil lines that I showed you before I want to try to eliminate as much squeeze out as possible the strength of this joint comes from those mortises and The Dominoes not necessarily the end grain to the long grain connection and once that epoxy was spread all around then I could break out the clamps man since I double stack The Dominoes I figured I may as well double stack the clamps while that was in the clamps it was time to turn my attention to something I've never tried before the Blacktail Studios N3 Nano coating this is a two-part system you put a hard coat down and then a top coat you're supposed to put two coats of the hard coat followed by two to three coats of the top coat this is a ceramic coating supposedly impervious to Mo most liquids and staining things and abuse and abrasions I don't know now just to be clear cam did not send this to me I bought it because I wanted to try and see if it's something I want to add as an option for my furniture builds in the future to give them ultimate durability it is a multi-step process and I had to work in sections because the table top was so large I can say that it went on easier than I expected with no lap marks and brought the sheen of the Rubio up quite nicely which I really like now time will tell whether or not it will stand up to the Daily abuse of a family of five and the next day I could get this glue assembly out of the clamps and unfortunately the glue blocks that I put on there with the CA glue and tape proved to be a little difficult to get off I think there was so much pressure on there that even though that isn't pressure sensitive tape it really created a hard bond that did not want to come off by hand so I turned my clamp into a spreader and didn't really expect this to happen then I could sand all those joints flush get any squeeze out from the epoxy off and move on to the next glue up rinse and repeat the same thing I did the first time well not exactly the same if I did it exactly the same I would have two glued up trapezoids and then really no way to put them together I mean I'm not Houdini here so what I had to do was only glue one leg onto this trapezoid the other one is in place and dry fit with dominoes but there's no glue on there so I glue this one up we'll let this sit overnight and then tomorrow we'll do phase two of this glue up when we glue the whole base together with the half laps so the next day I could remove the leg that wasn't glued and then start assembling the half laps and get this giant base together as one now to balance this thing and to get it up off the bench so I can get clamps underneath I made these little blocks almost like you would with a door when you want to stand it up on its Edge to install hinges and then I could start spreading around my thick so on all the joints and slow Glide that u-shaped trapezoid or legless one legless trapezoid into place now as you remember these were a tight fit so I was hoping the epoxy would offer a little um lubrication which they did but it still took quite a few whacks to get these in which I'm okay with I'd much rather have a tight half lap than one with any gaps and once those half flaps were fully seated just took a couple of clamps top and bottom and then come back tomorrow and glue on the other side leg meanwhile these custom steel mounting brackets I'd hit with some primer and some black paint and a little clear coat now I could put them in place and Trace out for the threaded inserts you can see I left room on the ends for expansion and contraction the elongated holes will be used for attaching bolts to the underside of the table top and the round holes will be used to attach it to the base really no need to elongate those holes because you won't see much expansion in the width of the leg however the holes are enlarged by about an eighth of an inch so if there is any movement there there will be plenty of room to jiggle jiggle now these are 5 16-18 threaded inserts I put a little wax on there because going into white oak it was a little difficult and I'm not putting any epoxy in here because this white oak is so solid I am firmly confident that nothing is going to come loose here now these brackets will be attached to the table base first and then the table top will be dropped on top and those brackets will fall into those recesses now the head and washer of the bolt that attaches it to the base need to recess into the table as well so that's what I'm doing here with the router just making a recess so that it can still sit flush and then back at my shop Jerry and I could get those half lap joints unclamped and get that final side leg into position and I can tell you right now Jerry was eyeing up the top of that table base so I gave my hand he likes being up high looking down on me like a pharmacist do what you got to do dude them with some more thick so could spread that over the joints and the dominoes get that popped in place and get a couple clamps on there got to admit it was quite a relief to have all these glue UPS finally done the next day I took the clamps off sanded all those joints and the final prep process began to get this thing ready for finish I rounded over all those edges with a 16th round over bit and then finished up by hand getting in all those nooks and crannies and making sure there were no sharp edges anywhere now I wanted to start the finishing process on the bottom of the base and then flip it right side up after that but it proved a little bit difficult because of the sheer weight and size and awkwardness and shape of this thing so I'll just let you enjoy my struggle for a minute and alas it was time to put on the Rubio monocoat again Cotton white in case you forgot I'm just using a white Scotch Brite pad here and just working it in by hand sometimes I find this therapeutic and sometimes I just want to be flipping done with it already once I had sufficient coverage everywhere and I let it sit for five or ten minutes then I could remove all the excess using a microfiber cloth until it was dry to the touch and back at true trade carpentry shop Mike was kind enough to help me manhandle this base into place on the top so I could get everything laid out for the bracket installation and then using a ruler I just make sure I had equal spit well relatively equal spacing all the way around on the brackets and the legs now the best method I could come up with here was just using green tape I put green tape on the bracket put green tape on the table base and then drew some lines where the brackets were and I made sure I labeled everything so that everything would go back in the same place and once everything was laid out then we could put the table base back on the floor and get set up to drill all the holes for the threaded inserts in the base now just to give myself a few more reference lines I did carry those lines from the tape all the way around on the top and they did line up from side to side that was the other important check so then I could square up the brackets on those lines Mark for my holes and start drilling I believe that's a half inch bit I just put another piece of green tape on there as a flag stop so I wouldn't go any deeper than necessary a little countersink so that when these sink down below the heads go below the surface and don't mushroom up just like that nice and flush and then I could just secure with bolts and washers I repeated the process for all the smaller rectangular brackets as well as home plate right in the middle now to put my signature on this piece I'm using these new Medallion maker branding brass coins that comes with this nice template here so once that's secured I'm using this w3000 pattern bit by white side to get down to the correct depth and follow that pattern all the way around this is a 3 8 inch thick acrylic template so super strong nice and beefy and then I could just erase all my layout marks from the surface now these are designed to be a very tight fit so that there's no gaps around there now to adhere this I'm just going to use a little CA glue but I'm using some 80 grit sandpaper to rough up the back just to give it a little bit of tooth then I could just spread a little CA glue down on the surface and place my Medallion where it needs to be and with a scrap block of wood and a few Taps for the Mallet it was secured in place and if you're interested in some of these Medallion maker branding coins for yourself in your own Furniture there's a link in the description below if you want to check it out now the last thing to do was Route out some more recesses but this for the leveling feet so I made this little template here and using the w3000s bigger brother the w3001 pattern bit this guy much longer cutting depth I can cut all the recesses for the leveling feet now it took a few passes to get down to the depth that I needed but once that was done I could remove the pattern and move all around to the other legs as well as putting one in the center of the table I also pre-drilled some holes for the threaded inserts and got those installed as well and then it was everyone's favorite day delivery day so I had to make two trips for this the base and then the top would follow so Mike helped me get the base loaded in my truck and I hit the road and there to meet me at the client's house was my buddy Ryan Carlin you may remember him from the shuffleboard video where he helped me move a lot of stuff around as well so we got this thing off the truck and it barely fit through the door brought it through the foyer and into the kitchen and dropped it in its final resting place and then we hit the road and headed back to True trade where it was quite the team effort to get this table top loaded first we want to throw it on the scale and just double check the weight and if you remember from the intro 250 pounds and luckily they had a dolly there even though it was from Harbor Freight I didn't really know the weight capacity but that helped us wheel it across the shop and over to the bay door now there was a lot of game planning on how to get this loaded in my truck and when someone said hey what about the forklift that's with the discussion abruptly ended so it was a team effort to get it on the forks of the forklift and then with Ryan's expert driving skills we got it loaded in the truck and I had to crawl underneath to try to find a hook to hook this ratchet strap to and then wriggle myself out now we were extremely fortunate that the bed of my truck lined up perfectly with the front steps of the client's house and we were basically able to just walk it off and walk it into the house but rather than kill ourselves we did the little slipper Shuffle across the foyer onto more blankets in the kitchen and just kept on dragging it and once we had the top turned and into position we were able to lean it forward a little bit get down and grab an edge and lift it up into both of our surprise we didn't split any of our male parts then it was just all about getting that table lined up perfectly with the brackets installing all the screws and then giving it a test run all right so this will be getting four inch seat cushions on here which will prop up so it won't look like little toddlers here but well that's a wrap on that one folks here's a few Beauty shots for you to take a look at thanks so much for watching we'll see you on the next one foreign

Channel: Keith Johnson Custom Woodworking

Views: 160,698

Keywords: keith johnson woodworking, kjsawdust, dining table, how to build a dining table, custom dining table, Furniture making, dining table build, dining table design, how to build a table, kitchen table, modern dining table, white oak dining table, woodworking

Id: ZJMDSHyi4HQ

Length: 37min 50sec (2270 seconds)

Published: Tue May 30 2023