Engine Damage AGAIN! Subaru Legacy Outback 2.2 2.5 EJ25

hello everybody good day to you and welcome back glad you guys are here I know I'm super glad to be here we're all super glad to be here because the hurricane has passed uh we are resuming business operations we're finishing up a few things with a couple of the Mustangs from last week uh still waiting on parts I've got a couple people that have come in for their appointments today but I need to clear the shop out before I can get to them and send some sort of at a standstill with some battery chargers and some brake fluid and some parts holds we are going to go back to the rubisu engine real quick and put some of the timing components together and I'll probably pop that rear main seal in now I issue on this uh particular setup here and that is I actually do not remember where all the components are supposed to go I've got a pretty good rough idea for example we've got a hardened steel pin right here in the front of the uh the engine block here so I know that that thing rests on the grenade pin for the tensioner so I'm fairly certain that the tensioner is going to go right there now there's two kinds of tensioners here there's an integrated tensioner and then there's a tensioner that has its own uh well it's like a pulley lever and then the uh the secondary version has the grenade or the plunger separate from the tensioning body itself so this is version one but there are two versions to this particular setup and I know that because I managed to order the wrong one at some point and I had to send it back that guy is gonna go right there pensioner pickage there we go um that didn't feel very good to me I mean it's that's tight but oh no you gotta be kidding me and how about that we got more ruined threads on the Subaru engine come on car guys I we just had a major victory now there's a major failure way that did not yeah dude look at that another one there's a hole there's another one look at that destroyed hold the threads right out of the thing look unbelievable this uh this engine does not want to comply with existence like seriously I know that these threads are correct look at here there's our old tensioner there's our new tensioner and we have the correct threads see that come on all right so now I need to time cert that hole for the timing belt tensioner so I've got to do the same thing that I just did to this water pump bolt right here on this tensioner bolt this is it's not what I expected to do okay that's uh that's gonna be a change of plans here um well I've got to order a Time sort kit now so how's the rest of these threads are these gonna be okay that one's good that one looks good those ones they better look good those are in the front of the water pump case here so those should be fine all right well I guess I can throw on some of these other pulleys real quick but I've got a I've gotta order a Time syrup for that so what we're gonna do is I'm gonna put on as many parts as possible here and then uh we'll spin this engine around and knock the rear crankshaft seal out I guess kind of go from there sure would like to finish this car one day I did put a new thermostat in it though see that all right well we have one Polly on let's get the other two out of the kit installed got a smooth face pulley here there's another smooth face that's gonna go here two tighten these guys down leakage I always check them to make sure that they spin that's why you broke the threads you're impacting it with a quarter inch drivers yeah so far so good Everybody's Free and Clear and turning and all that good stuff hooray even the cams alrighty so since we have to perform more more since we have to perform more surgery on this engine block to fix those threads next I've got to order another one of those time start kits or a heavy coil kit and so that puts me dead in the water on this side of the engine so let's uh let's spin this unit around here and get to the back side we will pull off any rear covers we can pull off the uh the flex plate and then uh we'll pop that rear seal in and out so we'll set this guy up on the oil pan yeah look at that here there's all kinds of oil back there pretty sure that that seal is leaking so let's pull this apart next and then we'll change that seal out check the covers as well you know I may not show it but I'm remarkably disappointed that that bolt stripped out so not what I wanted to do today larger impacts required so I was uh reading in the comments on the last video on this car and folks were going why oh why is it taking you forever to fix this guy's Subaru and this is why this is exactly why you got to do one thing and it turned into a nightmare this is like part five on this particular car it came in for oil leaks believe that it was oil in a coolant leak the coolant was that water pump probably because that bowl was junk there's a plate there and right when I thought I was making some Headway the uh I strip out another bolt so here's what we've got going on here check this out all right so it looks like this little plate right here is leaking some oil see all that right there there's oil all over the place around that plate there is a little bit of oil on this rear crank seal this thing may not be leaking but we're going to change it anyway and I believe that this plate right here is also a known leaker so we're going to pull this plate off and just reseal that as well I imagine that all these seals are uh RTV sealant and looks like you probably need to do an oil pan while we're here okay all right so let's handle what I would expect to be the easiest part first and that's going to be this little plate right here so I usually like to do the hardest part first but since this uh since this car is trying to be the the death of me I would uh I'll do the easy stuff first so here's what we're doing now I've got a screwdriver hanging out on that bolt and I've stuck a wrench on it just to give me some Leverage see if it's gonna crack or loose or not yepper there's one loose and numeral those unclick come on no it oh it started to strip the screw not okay no worries I'll hit it with an impact driver that guy on there and hit with a hammer as it hits it's going to collapse this cylinder body and it's going to cam and engage this bit right here and then make that bit turn or not come on oh that one is super tight so I hit it it didn't turn there we go that one turned good so now we did not damage our screws so let's pull these guys out and pop this little plate off of here and yep that's our seal look at that flattened out o-ring it's a horrible gasket no longer effective alrighty let's pull this little plate guy off right here and see what kind of seal that takes if it's our TV then we're good and if it's not our TV then I must order whatever the seal is supposed to be same thing with that O-ring over there right it's not a generic o-ring and the only one that seems to want to fit is going to be an AC o-ring and I don't think I should use a gray ACO ring from the back of a Subaru block so I won't um don't you strip out too come on stripping out I just saw it turned I'm not I'm not okay with this car like seriously it's not okay who does this I mean I know that these are like toy engines and everything but do we really have to put like hot metal fasteners in it look I'm about to strip come on man getting tired of this thing and yet we don't even have Torx Fasteners in here they've got these stupid hex Fasteners that round off that one's loose yeah that one up here that's I've already stripped that one on the mood this is why this car has taken months yeah that one's not even gonna come out that one's stripped that's great hooray [Music] give it back oh look that's full of sealant that's it there's our TV loaded in the back of that it's probably not even leaking while we were doing all this for no reason okay so we're gonna convert this into a Torx bit and maybe if I use the Torx it will not uh it'll grip into it and not slip so I'm just going to hammer this guy in playing nice nice no become loose now now it's no longer a hex bit it's a Torx it's been permanently altered I forgot one at the bottom give me back my bit please there you go our little panel what do you got going on back here we've got some RTV sealant yeah that's about it okay it's rear crankshaft seal out of here I'm gonna try to get after it with a pocket screwdriver first try to poke a hole in it just pry it out it's not enough screwdriver noob maybe if I can get behind it all right we dented it the idea here is to not damage the crank uh or the engine block of course at the rate this thing is going I'll probably strip this thing out somehow too and ruin this yeah we're well on our on our way here larger driver [Music] come out come out crankshaft seal here she comes I'm minding where the tip is so I don't gouge it into the bore of the block here there's our crank seal no damage to either surface this is good gonna give that a good wipe make sure there's nothing in there very good and we have a replacement seal it's right in front of me somewhere what do I do with it alrighty let's get this thing lined up and in position and we'll send it home with a couple love taps get in there please get in there [Music] oh lost it look at that spring came out epic failure do-over here let's try it again without uh not messing up what do you guys say like to do something on this car without screwing it up there yeah get on there stupid thing oh look I'm about to ruin it seal is uh trying to flip the wrong way see that let's push that right back in there where she goes that's better I didn't get an install tool with this so I do it the hard way all right that's looking pretty good everywhere let me finish sending it home a little bit farther even it out and make it flush with the engine block surface and then we're good here use the old seal to help bend it right on in very good they're pretty a little bit more over here I think we're in good shape a little too far all right so I did send this one in a little deeper than the one that I pulled out however that's kind of fine with me because when these seals are riding on the crankshaft they tend to wear a little bit on the crank and sometimes if you put them back in the exact same spot that Groove that's left in the crank can allow some oil to seat Hot Seat past so I did drive this in up probably about 3 16 of an inch maybe a quarter inch a little too far but it will still seal regardless because there's nothing in there except for a cavity for the filter or for the uh the gasket and then the crankshaft so that's still gonna be fine right where it's at I'm cool with that okay so before I screw something else up let's get the back of this block clean and uh we'll prep the panel and then get that panel resealed loud noises [Music] [Music] there we go that's good I'm gonna wash it off get rid of all the Dust [Music] contaminating the oil I know we're going to replace it later get all that nasty out of there get that piece of sealant out of there goodbye goodbye contamination very good alrighty so our little plate here that's going to start for the same fate a business wheel action loud what is this oh [Music] super shiny all right good to go alrighty so now we can add our own Ultra black room temperature Vulcanizing sealant to the back of this panel run that around that's not looking good hmm roll it from the end here give us more con control of our stream so to speak there [Music] thicker than I wanted here no matter I'll work with it we go roll it the tube's almost empty but it's not rolled what's going on here it was emptied improperly [Music] [Music] there let's fix this over here so that's not missing and or missing still sealant words so it's not missing a sealant and it has voids in it there are voids the oil will leak past that's not okay [Music] in all my years I've never seen such a sloppy sealant job this is horrible guaranteed leaker yeah we'll be all right I bet it's going to leak less than it did so there a little bit over here a little bit more back over there let's make that look pretty thin it out some this is how you get sealant inside of your thread bolts by the way the bolts will pass through and they'll collect some they'll take it into the threads it's not a huge deal but it can be if you way overdo it all right that thing's good let's get that unit bolted back onto the block it'll have ample time to dry because I still have to order the time start kit for the other side hooray so let's see how did this guy go in this orientation here sure here we'll go ahead and stick it on in the top thread that in some good next [Music] number three [Music] uh two more what do I do with them losing my bolts [Music] uh last one nice all right that's the stripped one right there I'll have to use the torques on it was out of Torx 27 that I grabbed yeah [Music] click beautiful let's put some torque on these remaining Fasteners here and this plate is done that one's good that one's good they're all good everything's good even that broken Okie dokes oh man knock you guys right over okay uh next order of business is going to be this o-ring on the back of the plate here I have a replacement yes it's a fell Pro and I know folks do not like Velcro stuff on Ruby shoes however it's the only one that's available so that's the one I'm going to use besides it's just a rubber o-ring wow that's not even rubber anymore that's turned into plastic look how hardened that is it's just breaking away I wonder it was a leaker okay let's wipe that out a little bit there's some debris in there here at all that pop our o-ring in the hole like so and then we can get this guy back on the rear of the block there we go I think she went just like so it wants to oh gravity it wants to pop out of there so I'm making sure that once it touches the block and I lose sight of it that's that so what we need to do is be prepared [Music] that's in bottom screw coming in getting that guy down next one there we go and those were actually very tight we'll give them a hit with the uh the impact driver just to make sure they stay tight here we go awesome okay back to the engine block Gravity the back of the engine block has been resealed fantastic so now we're in a real good position to go ahead and get our flywheel back in place along with its little spacer I don't know if uh all of these bolt holes are evenly spaced or not so we're gonna thread all of these fasteners before tightening anything down get in there don't you strip out that's all we need is a stripped out crankshaft probably shouldn't have said that because uh this Subaru does things like that to me it's a curse from the car gods [Music] talk to you later buy oil close the rest of this unit off and I'm going to end up on another Park hold until I get the time start kit to fix the front of this thing again it's actually not a parts hole that's a cool old because I need a tool to fix the threads there we go okay all right well we got kind of somewhere on this engine at least the back of it's all sealed up um I'm not gonna do the oil pan just yet we uh well because it's sitting on the oil pan so what I'll need to do in order to do to replace the seal down there is get this thing on engine hoist unbolt it pry it off and then change it out I actually might just do that oil pan in chassis it should be space uh while it's in the car to speak up in and out or I can get Troy to do it I haven't decided yet either way at this point and today I'm at another standstill so that's probably going to be about it for this video like I mentioned earlier I've got to order another one of those thread repair kits to drill out that uh that big hole for the tensioner bolts and then once that's on I can get the timing set up get the front covers on then we'll drop this thing back down inside of our Ruby suit so uh having said all that I'm gonna go ahead and close this video out right now I will do such things as always by thanking each and every one of you guys for watching this video certainly hope you enjoyed this video if you did and you have not yet seen and would like to go back to see all of the previous iterations on this Subaru project please check this video's description down below and I will have an itemized list of all the links starting from part one down to uh I think we're on part five now so there's gonna be one through four in that list I'll even throw a couple really good shorts in there to go with it or you can wait until this video is in screen or check these links above right about here somewhere and those will take you back to the part one of this particular Subaru Series so again and as always thank you guys for watching and most importantly ever sells a fantastic day see you guys later in a video in the Subaru in a 2.5 liter dope end of oil leaker and end of engine block threads in a transmission

Channel: Rainman Ray's Repairs

Views: 133,048

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Id: 80bahTyKZaQ

Length: 28min 20sec (1700 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 01 2023