Subaru Timing Belt Kits | STEP-BY-STEP Guide

what's up everybody thanks for checking out the video I'm Luke the Subaru only channel it's a channel where all we do is Subaru build and race subaru vehicles in motorsport events it's a DIY themed channel where I walk you guys through how to work on your Subarus and hopefully get you guys on the racetrack to be a little racing of your own in today's video as you can probably tell we're putting a new timing belt we're putting a new hydraulic tensioner and all the associated pulleys on the 2.5 liter subaru forrester engine that i'm doing a build series on let's get these sweet parts install on that motor ok here's the kit that I'll be installing in this 2.5 liter Forester motor it's a gate timing belt kit that includes all the police the hydraulic tensioner and the timing belt and some Loctite yes two of the pulleys and the hydraulic tensioner made in China one of the pulleys is made in Japan and the belt is made in the USA the kit also comes with some documentation basically a limited warranty and a technical service bulletin that has to do that timing belt shield instructions for installing the timing belt and this bright yellow sheet that is all about bleeding that hydraulic tensioner before you install it and I'm gonna walk you guys through how I do that in just a second now I know which timing belt kit people use is very controversial it's probably as controversial as which oil you use but I have had good luck with these gates and although some of these components are made in China and I'm not a big fan of that I'm going to go ahead and use this kit and I'm gonna keep a very close eye on it because frankly I haven't seen a whole lot of evidence directly correlating these China manufactured parts with failures on engines and I'd like to see firsthand for myself how they last before I install any of these components I need to believe this hydraulic tensioner basically that yellow sheet of paper that came with a kit this one right here explains how you do this procedure it's pretty straightforward I'll walk you guys through it right now basically what those instructions say is that air gets trapped in the system and you need to bleed that air before you put it on the engine to believe that air you mount this vertically so the piston is facing up in the air is on top you then secure it in a vise and I'm going to show you how I do it my vise and then you slowly release the piston and compress the piston three times taking at least six seconds for each cycle okay I'm gonna walk you guys through bleeding the sucker right now okay so here's how I believe the air out of these hydraulic tensioners basically I just use an everyday bench vise but I tip it on its side and I said on my workbench as you can see here now with these tensioners remember you need to keep it vertical once it's secured in the vise you can pull the pin and then we'll slowly raise the vise to allow this rod to extend taking approximately 60 seconds and then we'll compress that raw taking a full 60 seconds with a slow even rate of compression okay once you've set it in your vise you want to make sure that that rod is lined up so that when it extends and compresses it's going parallel to its piston bore and then proceed and slowly extend that rod taking a full 60 seconds what I found is that I basically turn this handle similar to a second hand on a clock 1,001 1,002 like me once you felt the piston is fully extended begin your compression cycle applying slow even force taking at least 60 seconds to compress it periodically check to make sure that rod is be compressed perfectly parallel to the bore one kind of real world observation I'll share with you guys is that as you're compressing this tensioner you can actually feel the fluid is moving in this tensioner because as I'm rotating this handle I can slowly feel the tension changing in its handle as the fluid is moving and I can really feel how slowly I need to be moving to allow all that fluid to pass from one chamber to the next chamber and allow that Raw to slowly move down you really really can feel it in the handle okay I've done two extension and compression strokes of this rod before I do a third one I'm going to let you guys know a quick little tip that I found that really helps a lot of times when I've compressed this rod and it's totally flat meaning so the device is flush on an outer surface and that rod is all way down some reason that rod just isn't quite far enough for this pin to go through the first hole through the rod into that second hole and I'm always banging up trying to get to that second hole so my quick tip is fold up a teeny little piece of tape like a little piece of duct tape really thin and just put it on top of that rod because it's got that adhesive it'll stick and I mean a of millimeter six you don't want to over compress this wrong you just want to compress that rod a teeny bit more than the outer surface so that this pin will pass through the first hole rod in the second hole easily put that little tape on put it back in your vibes make sure it's lined up properly I'm going to go ahead and do the final compression stroke okay that rod is fully compressed and because I put that team little piece of tape I'm hoping this pin slides through the first hole the rod in the third hole easily another little quick tip is that when you put this pin in make sure you're thinking about the orientation of this hydraulic tensioner with respect to how you can install it because you can be leaving this pin in that sucker as you install the engine and you need to pull this pin out after it's bolted in so think about which side you're installing this pin all right in that pin and wind perfect remember you can be bolting this in the engine so don't push that pin in too far just push it in far enough so goes through the first hole the rod in the second hole and then slowly release and bam this hydraulic tensioner is fully bled and it's ready to be installed motor there's no other prep work for any of the other pulleys so we're ready to install all the components of this timing kit on the motor okay here's the motor that I'll be installing the timing belt kit on it's a motive from a 2002 guru Forester it's a 2.5 liter single overhead cam motor and it had a bad head gasket I'm actually doing a build series on replacement head gaskets on this motor so if you'd like to see any of the steps involved in rebuilding this motor check outs on my older videos I walk you through all the critical steps now I've already bled this hydraulic tensioner so it's ready to be installed and so are all the other pulleys however before I put all these parts on I actually need to tighten the bolts in these cam shaft sprockets I'm going to walk you guys through a great little hack to tighten these bolts on these cam shaft sprockets without using those specialty factory tools okay so here's the hack to tighten or loosen any of these camshaft sprocket bolts all you need is an old timing belt and a couple pairs of vise grips preferably these flat needlenose style okay the first step is thinking about which way you need to rotate this bolt if you're tightening the bolt down and the OEM specs for torque on these bolts is 58 foot-pounds so you're going to need to tighten it quite a bit if you're tightening this bolt it's actually going to rotate clockwise right tighty lefty loosy so it will rotate this way and as you tighten this bolt you're actually pulling tension on the lower portion of this belt because you're rotating this camshaft clockwise step two is routing this old timing belt around the camshaft sprocket that you're going to loosen or tighten that bolt on wrap it around nice and snug with all the teeth engaged then grab yourself something like a little binder clip to temporarily hold this sucker next we're going to route the rest of the belt around any other fixed point on this pulley system preferably is called pulley that we're actually going to be replacing so it doesn't matter if we put a little bit of load on it then grab another binder clip and temporarily hold the belt with that binder clip okay as you can see I've wrapped that old tounging belt around the camshaft sprocket then I'm going to tighten that bolt on the idea is since I'm gonna be pulling tension on the bottom of that belt because I'm rotating that bolt clockwise tighten it I want to bind up the bottom of that belt so it can't move in the way that I achieve that is I wrap this belt around another fixed point on the engine and then clamp it so that that belt isn't allowed to rotate it may sound kind of confusing but if you walk through each of these steps it'll work out perfectly each time now the way I have it set up when I replace these binder clips with needlenose pliers it's going to prevent the timing belt from rotating at all when I try to turn this bolt on this camshaft sprocket and it's going to allow me to torque this bolt all the way down 58 foot-pounds let's go ahead and do it right now okay I've replaced those binder clips with by scripts and I'm ready to torque this bolt down to 58 foot-pounds of course to do that you got to use a torque wrench that's what I've got right here and this bolt is torqued to 58 foot-pounds awesome now if you need to go ahead and do the other side and if you need to take out in these bolts just do this whole configuration in the opposite way and that works perfect to loosen these bolts and take them out so you can remove the camshaft pulleys okay the next step is simple we just remove all these old pulleys and slap the new ones on and torque them the specs let's go ahead and do that right now okay the first thing we can install is that new hydraulic tensioner that we bled earlier now the bolt for this hydraulic tensioner it gets torqued down to 28 foot pounds and as a matter of fact all the bolts for the pulleys and the tiny belt kit get torqued down to 28 foot pounds also when you're finally ready to install these components use a little bit that blue loctite that they include in the kit and put just one or two drops on the end of that bolt thread now make sure these bolts never back out now that we're installing this hydraulic tensioner you'll see why we had to put this pin in a specific orientation to allow us to remove it once it was installed and then go ahead and torque that bolt down to 28 foot-pounds okay that tension is both of the spec but don't pull that pin yet you have to wait until we have a belt installed before you can pull that sucker okay after that hydraulic tensioner is installed we'll go ahead and stall that upper double bearing pulley and tighten that bolt to 2800 pounds all right that pull is good to go there next we want to install would be this cause pulley but don't install this pulley yet it's going to be too hard to get the belt on if this pulley is already installed so hold off installing this pulley until we have the belt routed around all these other pulleys and then we'll put this cog pulley in as we mesh it with a piece of that timing belt alright this point we're ready to grab that new Titan belt and start routing it around the pulleys on the engine a quick little tool hack I'll mention is grabbing some of these little binder clips from your local office supply store get these half inch size binder clips they work perfect for temporarily holding that belt while you're routing it around all the other pulleys okay before you put this timing belt on the first thing you should be thinking about is what the hell we're timing here we're not talking about ignition timing we're talking about camshaft and valve timing we're talking about making sure that those camshafts which control those valves opening are synced with the rotation of the crankshaft so that those valves open at the exact right time with respect to the piston in that combustion chamber that's what this timing belts all about and that's what the word timing is referring to in this context so to achieve that we need to line both these camshafts to this crankshaft and Subaru being a great engineering company has taken all the hard work out of this for us what they've done is they've marked these camp chef sprockets to make it super easy to make sure that these camshafts are phased to that crankshaft correctly basically they put a little hash mark and these camshaft sprockets and all you need to do is make sure that hash mark is straight up in the 12 o'clock vertical position for both camshafts before you put this timing belt on when it comes to the crankshaft on the back of that crankshaft cog there's also mark do you align straight up in the vertical 12 noon position that mark will line up with a two-block k tabs once you have all three of these aligned in the straight-up vertical position you're ready to start routing your timing belt okay now I have the belt partially installed on the engine and I want to show you guys two things I want to show you guys how the belt routes on these pulleys and I want to show you where we use these binder clips the first thing to tell this belt routes basically goes around this passenger side camshaft sprocket goes under this double pulley and then wraps over your crankshaft cogs and then back under this hydraulic tensioner pulley and then again over that camshaft sprocket on the driver's side having the timing belt routed this way around the crankshaft sprocket allows for the maximum surface area a number of keys engaging which is critical because all the torque from this engine is being applied to this timing belt through that crankshaft sprocket so that's why you want to get as much contact with that sprocket to help transfer all that rotational force to that belt okay the second thing I want to show you is why I use these binder clips these binder clips are perfect to temporarily clip that timing belt to that camshaft sprocket so you use this binder clip hold that timing belt on that first camshaft sprocket while you route the timing belt around all the other pulleys and the other camshaft sprocket I'll also mention that these timing belts have little white marks on them to help you align them on those camshaft sprocket I'll show you look close up to get a better idea of what I'm talking about here's a closer look at that white mark that's stamped into those timing belts these marks help me make sure that that timing belt is installed and is mentioning at the right location on these teeth here's that white mark on the timing belt for the crankshaft pulley and then here's that white mark on the timing belt on the Left camshaft sprocket okay I have the belt routed on the engine and making contact with all the teeth at the exact right position so the mark on those cam shaft sprockets is straight up and everything didn't sink now I'll go ahead and start that cog pulley and start putting some tension on this timing belt it's a little tricky but basically get those belt teeth engaging this con pulley and then lead with that bolt to start threading on that bolt and installing the pulley without timing belt already meshed with the gear and to make sure you torque that sucker down to 28 foot-pounds all right ready for our last pull eight that's a single bearing pulley that goes on the bottom now again this one's a little bit of tricky it's going to have a little bit of tension on it but basically lead with that bolt and then use it leverage of the bolt to kind of twist that pulley up to get it lined up so you thread the bolt in straight and you'll cross thread anything take your time and they'll work out just fine you'll know when that bolt grabs those threads inserting on straight and then of course don't forget to torque it to 28 foot-pounds at this point we're all good I'll remove these binder clips I'll double check that everything is aligned perfectly before I pull that pin in that hydraulic tensioner all right I'll double check that everything is aligned correctly and it is this timing belt kit is done I'm going to button up this engine and get ready to drop it in the Forester and wrap up this entire engine build the only thing left to do now is make sure you don't forget to pull that pin out of that hydraulic tensioner this is always a fun part and bam you pull the pin out nothing blew up or am i wrapped up there for today guys thank you so much for checking out the video in this video we installed a new gates timing belt kit that includes the new timing belt the pulleys and the hydraulic tensioner I walk you guys through the correct steps for installing that timing belt and how you align the camshaft to that crankshaft position and how critical it is for the installation I also walk you guys through how we bleed all the air out of that hydraulic tensioner before we install it on the motor with this new timing belt kit and a new head gaskets that this engine has this 2.5 liter subaru forrester motor is going to be good to go for many many years to come and now this motor is all ready to be dropped back in the car I'm Luke this is a Subaru only channel if you enjoyed this video if you thought it brought you value please consider subscribing that would be awesome if any thoughts or questions about this video please leave a comment and I'll be sure to get back to you thanks again for check out the video guys I'll see you next time later you

Channel: SubaruONLY

Views: 226,631

Keywords: subaruonly, subaru only, subaruonly diy videos, subaru diy, diy subaru, diy subaru channel, install forester timing belt, how to install a forester timing belt, install a subaru timing belt, forester timing belt kit, gates timing belt kit, gates subaru timing belt kit, subaru 2.5l sohc timing belt kit, bleed subaru hydraulic tensioner, bleed gates hydraulic tentioner, subaru timing belt replacement, subaru timing belt replacement dohc, subaru timing belt replacement procedure

Id: JIU23Zhqwb0

Length: 16min 25sec (985 seconds)

Published: Mon May 29 2017