Door Hanging | Paul Sellers

we're ready to take that next step and hang the door onto the style and this is an important step I've got all my hinges set exactly the same way I did the first one here my door is not twisted it fits into the recess just about right just want to show you one thing here what I did is I picked another hinge that actually goes it's the same height as two of the three hinges and one is slightly less but I'm going to use the same hinge to map out the hinges on here so it's worth having a fourth hinge I just want to show you one thing not all steel rules are created equal they may have the same increments on but they're not the same thickness this one is just over half a millimeter and then this one is eight point eight five of the mill and this one is a millimeter so you have to pick your battles this one is going to go on the bottom so I've made my opening about one and a half millimeters wide so this one goes on the bottom here and when I put my thin steel rule in here here that's the half mil and that's just about perfect here so that's a perfect amount and I want this style here to be the same and I think that I set the depth of my gauge just right but sometimes when you buy hinges like this the plate is quite thin and it will depend on the hinge so you can't necessarily automatically set it like I did to the thickness of the plate you may have to do something different like for instance let me show you when this hinge is closed or when the door is closed the gap that I have there is way way too much can you see there's my half mil and I still have a good millimeter of steel to put in there so there is that's the that's about that's almost one and a half mil not quite and that's way too much for the gap that I will end up on the style of the door so in this case I'm going to reset the depth of my gaze to compensate for the extra gap between the hinge plates when they come together like that very important when you're hanging your door I want an equi distance here on the top and down this style you can choose anywhere between half a millimeter and a millimeter is perfectly acceptable for this so 1/32 of an inch to a sixteenth of an inch would work just fine for most people the finer tolerances were usually acceptable in finer furniture this is a tool cupboard alright so I got my thicker plate on the bottom my steel rule on the bottom I offer this up here and I'm going to push the knuckle so that can you get right on top of there for me just to help show where I've aligned so this now comes here I've got my one half millimeter gap at the top and then I need a knife just to get the exact position of this inside corner right in here so I go right on the very top of that hinge here on the very top of the hinge here this is perfectly suitable to this type of hinge and then before I take it away I'm going to give myself a visual here because I want to mark this so I'm putting an X lightly in pencil and X lightly with the side of my pencil to give me a visual reference I don't want to put I don't want to put one hinge in the right position here and then one on the top here that would be pretty bad that would so here I've got the same sized hinges the top two hinges and the bottom ones slightly more so I go into that knife mark wherever it was there I slide my buthinge right up and into that corner how do I do this and keep you in vision there so that's there then I can mark this and I don't have to mark this heavily because I'm going to again I'll be going with the square in a minute like that and then I come obviously right down the length of the hinge here carefully with the light pass first to the end of the hinge right in there and that's my first hinge positioned I'm going to take the square and I do exactly the same with the other two hinges so here I'm going to set the depth here so it clears I want this so exact because this totally sets the distance so here now I'm going to pull going in the back edge first slide my square up to it and pull and keep going go with two or three passes a bit more awkward because I'm trying to work to you as the camera is there so I'm in position now you don't slip into your hand that's that I'm going to mark the bottom with pencil so I know the start and stop of my hinge position I've adjusted my gauge to compensate for the extra depth that I want in this case and I run the gauge line in here this looks quite deep so I hope I've got it right once I remove this wood I'm committed I'd rather have this set into here because this is really going to support the whole weight of the door anyway now I have to make sure you can see I'm going to set this to that gauge line and put a pencil line on to the depth of the nickel see how I can do that just like that great so into my knife wall again got my knife wall established of course nobody's really going to see inside here I can't get into this knife wall so I'm going to put a heavier knife wall about what three four mil above the other one like that and I'm going to chisel into it sideways like this there and now when I chop here I don't have a whole lot here I could put a clamp across here but I've got a good sharp chisel and it won't take much to get down so I'm going to creep up on my knife wall now and keep flicking out so I'm 2 mil off my knife wall now and this last one is going to go right into the knife wall wish I could see a little bit better so there now I can go bevel down here flick it out I'm going into the knife wall up here now so it's really just the same way that we did on the door and then work down like this and I can actually see my depth of cut here more than I could on the door go through the face I'm going to go directly into my groove with my gauge now take out the midsection first like that and then creep up on the outside section because you may not be deep enough with your perpendicular cut so I'm staying away from a knife wall a little bit here it's fall out out of the way and the same on the top one probably seeing the cabinet move that way is a little disconcerting for you but it's not really an issue so fear not now be careful having said that you do have to make sure what you're working on is solid enough for what you're doing so safety is an issue this cabinets not going to fall over now then having said that once you hang your doors on it and you have all the weight on the doors on the open swing when it's open you just have to be very careful that you are indeed conscious that the weight of the doors can pull it forward until it's fixed to the wall love it look at that nice okay so hopefully I've got the right sized recess here I may have to do a little bit of trimming a little bit tight oh it's right on I think a few fibers there let me see my little steel hammer let me see if I am close I'm a little bit a little bit tight I'm going to stay to that top line because that was directly off the hinge that I used it's just a hair still a little bit tight I'm just airing on the side of caution here a little bit because I just don't want it to be loose and I don't want it to be too big who's going to look inside here there we go so that's that's it that's my hinge so I do exactly as I did before I'm going to do two steps with the drip with the drill into one of these holes only I'm only going to drill one hole I'm going to drill the bottom hole because when I hang this I'm going to use one screw until I have settled on the door fitting properly so one hint one screw in each hinge also I want to be very careful that my hinge must my drill doesn't go through this narrow style here so you could if you were like me you could put some tape on here and when you put the tape on that will give you the exact depth and it's important very important not to go through this style so go in like this and then go with your step bit the next size up just to open up the top side of the hole and you could use a square all in here if you wanted to there then take your screw and this time I'm going to use the wax because and may need a little bit of help getting the screw in so I'm just using furniture polish in here which I actually did on the other screws when I was setting them before and just drive that one screw in and then back it out and sometimes I will often use a steel screw first because it's so much stronger than the brass so I might use a steel screw first so set this screw then back it out and then go on so there's my screw it's not protruding through leave it just like that go to the second one do the same recess do the same in a third recess drive that bottom screw because what happens then you may need to micro adjust the adjustment in the setting of the hinges in case there was a discrepancy you'll be able to micro adjust it and you'll still have two solid screw holes to screw into then you can move the wall over slightly in the hole that you've already created just by pinching the fibers with us with a and all and pulling the fibers into play to reset that that screw so we're going to do the other two screws recesses and then get back together so I've got I've just trimmed out the little the back edge of there because it wasn't quite into the knife wall now I'm going to put the hinge back in position I want to show you something and a little additional information really to help guide you there is my screw set there's still going to be a slight gap at the top because the door is falling forward but when I open this up I've put the flap on the outside here so that I can close can you see the gap here is not even to here but then they still this stop this top screw has to go into this one that will pull the door over on the top and give me a parallel line so I still have that yet to do so let me just slacken this screw off and just show you one thing that will help you when you get to yours this is just to loosen this up so I can put the flaps of these bottom hinges inside like this it's still resting no it's not now it's still resting in the hinge recess and the reason I want to do this is because this is the exact registration no matter what happens now that gives me an exact registration so I can open this up now and I can mark the top and bottom of my hinge here one two three and four and that gives me the perfect registration for these two hinges so when I take this out now I can cut the other two recesses without fear and trembling I can get right in there get the job done and we will get back together after I've cut those two recesses we want this to align perfectly and these are steps we have to take to get this work perfect just to show you a lot of times people will they've cut the recesses and they stick the hinge in the bottom one and they drive that screw and then they they can't move away from the door because the door will not hang on its own just in case you do need to move a wall away from the door it's always better to hang the top hinge whether this is a house door or a cabinet door just like we're doing it's always better to cinch down the top hinge first that's what we'll do make sure all your flaps are on the inside set the first hinge and drive the screw I've already recessed those the lower hinges now and what I did is I did as I might have said I would I'm not going to align the screws yet but what I'm going to do is drive each individual hinge I mean it screws into each of the individual in just one screw in each hinge just like this you leave this middle one just soon as it touches the hinge like that it's just touching the hinge so it's not cinched down but it's keeping it in the recess then I'm going to take my bottom one fold that one in now I did the top one on this because it didn't matter but I did the nearest one to the bottom one on this one because there may be it can you see a slight gap there on that inside edge there watch when I fold the door flat here I can push this in now can you see that gap closes there might be a slight bend in the in the door might be something that's slightly off but by doing that I can now press the door in and get that hinge set tight along the recess along the recess here now I can cinch this one tight and I can even align the screw now if I want to and I go to the top one and align this screw here and I do exactly as I did before I go into the screws can you see a slight gap on that top hinge on the back corner here there's a slight gap it's not very much half a mil I've put my drill bit right in the back edge just as I did before or I could use a square hole like this and I could go right in that back edge there with the point of the awl and see again I can press this and if I can't the screw will certainly pull it but just take the square hole and start your hole and sit get the depth of you screw there's the depth of my screw so I've got my finger there to give me the finished depth that I want to remount this hole to now my finger is just touching the surface of the plate of the hinge a little dab of furniture polish in here just like that no more than that drive that screw and that will pull over the gap on the top of the hinge I hope I think if it doesn't then I'm a failure not really there it goes pulled it over tight a little bit still got a hairline gap I'm not going to worry perfectly happy oh look at that so spot on you may need to do a little bit of fit in this one is this top of this style is just a hair narrower than this would I go in I might set all my screws first I could set this hinge just a hair deeper that would pull this caz the gap here is slightly bigger than here and here that doesn't mean that I didn't get the recesses right it means there may be some variance in the hinge and I might need to set that one deeper but for now I am ready pretty much to hang my second door I've got 15 and 3/16 fifteen and 3/16 which is this door is 15 and a quarter so I now have to fit this door to this recess I have planed this edge of my door here slightly out of square again because that gives me a leading edge when it meets the other door it means that this because the corner from here to here is going to be longer than the width of the door so I take a slight leading edge off the door that means when I push it into its opening I have crisp clean lines along the meeting edges very important for a finished cabinet so we're approaching the next door now so I'm going to do exactly the same on the next door I'm going to fit the style I'm going to fit the head fit the bottom just as I did on this one I'm going to set the hinges I'm going to hang it in its place and then I'm going to see how close or how close I am to fitting and I will probably fit this door style to this one but if it was say more than a sixteenth maybe an eighth or something like that I would take a sixteenth off the edge of this door and then take a sixteenth off the other and then make that one millimeter maximum gap between the two meeting edges of the door so we'll see when we get to there how we fit I've got the two doors hung now and I think it's important here to notice that this overhangs this one or may well do there quite away so if I mark this one here and here we're over hanging about an eighth of an inch and if you remember we made the doors dead to size I can't remember what the sizes were but I think they were fifteen and a quarter each we fitted this one we fitted that one we did bevel this edge but we're going to have to take half of this distance off just to keep the two doors if I took all of this off this side that would make this style two and three eighths and this one two and a half and that's enough to say there's a discrepancy there so what I'm going to do is take half of this distance off this door here which is that much so I'm going to remove the door and then plane the edge notice here I put two screws in this top hinge can you see right in there this was to make sure that there was no flex in the hinge when I closed the door so that meant that the style of the door was tight up against the frame and there was no sag in that extension from the hinge so that's important to get two screws in this one these you only really need one in because the weight of the door is dropping and pushing the hinge into its recess so there's no issue down there so I'm going to take one of these screws out it's important to do this in sequence you want to leave this screw in at the top take the lower ones out first simply because you can't really hold a top one when you're working on those two bottom hinges so now I can put my left hand here hold the door remove this bottom screw on this one and then go to my top one until that screw is finger loose and I can just take out the remaining hinge there we've got safe removal of the door and now we want to take the edge off of this can you see I did previously plane this out of square so it's sloping so I'm going to maintain that slight angle when I take the shaving off this end of this side I'm going to start down here and work towards the other end now I've got a pretty stiff vise here this vise will put bags of pressure on there so I've got enough to plane out all the way through if I want to but I'm going to start here I can't remember which way the grain was running on this so I'm taking a stroke here and it feels good it feels as though I'm planing with the grain so I'm going to set a little bit heavier I've got a little knot here and this one always tears if I use a bevel up plane on this it will definitely tear so choice of a bevel down is my preference so watch here now I'm going to take my left hand here this goes under the rim of the door and counter some of that pressure so I'm going with a single handed stroke taking out the bulk of the wood check on your fine still got some in there not much that's it good that's enough I think break the corner just two strokes just to ease the edges on this top corner here just take the corner off same on this one it saves those corners being broken at some point can you see here there's my pencil line where I wanted to work too and I've got a pencil line just showing on that bottom corner even though I just took the areas off so this goes back in and then I'll get back with you and I'll work on the adjacent door I'll show you how we fit that one now I've got the door fitted the other ones hung I've got my two screws in the top again to make sure it's over now you can see there I hope the difference now between what I had before I exactly have that distance can you see that so now I know that this is going to be dead center for me and what I'm going to do is close this one door here and take a square and flush it with the edge of this door here and make a mark here like that that means I can transfer that line to the other door and I'll do the same down here just go square up right on to the very edge of the door this will get me very close to this door size that I need for this adjacent door again I've got two screws in the top here I've checked everything I'm happy with the alignment you may find like this watch this when I've moved this cabinet here can you see how moving it affects the top of the door and that's because we're not fixed when you actually come to fix this to the wall as long as you did like I said align these two styles cited them in hung your doors you should be fine when you put this on the wall you may need to shim the back of the cabinet slightly because the wall may be twisted there may be other reasons but that's easy to do when we probably try and show you how to hang the cabinet and and look for these little bits and that you can realign yourself with so now I take my square to that line that I marked on the face of the case and Mark my line here and also way down here that gives me the exact cut line and I can vary that I can take a little bit more off when it comes to fitting so I'll take this door off again I'll take the screws out let's say for some reason I put two screws you know me oh I've put two screws all the way down I must have been confident with this one because I put three screws in this one I must have thought I'm not taking it up again so fitting this last door like this is equivalent to fitting it within a frame too because the frame is fixed also and this one now are worse fitting the other door we did have a little margin for error we really don't want to take too much off this door because when you do and you have a bigger gap then you wanted it can be unsightly so what I'm going to do is take a straight edge to the edge of this door here just to see whether it is in fact straight so there it's a nice straight edge right along here so I can confidently take a straight line between those two marks that I made like that and I can use that with confidence as much as you can be confident with wood there's my line so I have to repeat this time I had done nothing to this edge this edge was still square from the original planing so it's not got any leading edge this is what we call this bevel on the inside edge it's called a leading edge because it leads into the opening and when it's closed it's got the perfect margin between the two pieces hopefully so make sure you put the bevel on the right face so that's on this side in this case so first of all yeah I think I'm going to put the Shumpert on the edge here planes on half half face on the wood let me just show you one thing if you don't have a super strong vise like I have go somewhere near the center like this just put it in the vise and work that way the only issue with this now is if you push here let me see if it'll work if I push the plane here I can feel a vibration in here that I don't get when it slowed down like that because there's enough flex in this frame to be pushing this way so that doesn't work for me I want something that feels really solid and this works well other than that you can clamp it to the apron of your vise of your bench whatever you want to make it work so I've got a slight bevel there not enough yet so I'm going to put a deeper cut now you can hear it so I've got my bevel I'm happy that that's enough leading edge into there about two and a half three mil happy with that I've got my bevel I've got to watch this line now quite a bit to take off but I can take a full width cut now keep your eye on your line even though you take a shaving like I am from one end to the other there is no guarantee that every shaving is parallel so keep checking that's a fairly heavy cut well this is bang on the line here a little bit off there and a little bit off there so I don't know what you would do would you probably slide it in the opening and give it a quick whirl see how it's doing work from either end I'm going to put my straightedge on this will give me some indication because I'm using a shorter plane you notice there so I've got a slight hollow in the middle so I'm going to just take my shorter plane here and get myself straight pretty good I need more at this end I think a little bit more here so I'm going to back the iron off now because now more a refining stays and hugging off looking good I think take a look on here and you can look with me yes just a little bit half of not even half a millimeter in the inside and I'm sure it's here because I can still see a line quite clearly there this is going to have the leading edge so I'm happy to offer this back into the the opening but I have a feeling that it's still not going to be enough of a gap yet to not have to take a little bit more off to give it the actual gap I'm looking for which is probably close to maybe a millimeter mil and a half something like that let's rehang this so this is quite tedious in and out hanging the door taking it off but all very very necessary when you're hanging doors there is no way of doing this without this so you're learning how to traditionally hang a recess door good exercise we should call this Paul's gym because there's lots of exercise in this flexes every muscle somewhere could go online with a gym couldn't we it's really amazing how many emails I get from people these days that say how much this has changed their lives and how much they feel better and so it's not just a physical exercise but emotional mental see how I bent the door that way while it was on edge this would not flex into the recess two screws in the top one and then as many as you like in the lower ones Oh we'll see how this fits it feels so chunky so very solid this does now so let's close this one bring this one in so we actually have I'm sure I put this here that is about as close as I can get to a perfect fit so now all I need is that one millimeter off this door to get this to fit perfectly the alignment is good so would I take the door off yeah I probably will because it's easier in the vise and it is on the piece and I want this so precise next on this is going to be door furniture or in America door the hardware I don't think they call it furniture there somebody will correct me soon so a little bit more off that one edge I just take one millimeter off it now if I want a millimeter gap between the meeting styles it looks good I think it looks good I go here to do this now I'm going to back my plane iron off to a very shallow setting and hear this now listen so it's missing and then it's hitting so this is just straightening out that edge you hear that so I'm relying on the planes flat sole this time to straighten out any undulation and notice I'm taking it off the full width of the bevel not just the edge because these components can swell or they can shrink so I'm not taking too much off this door is on the point of fitting now so I'm going to stop rehang the door and we'll get back together and show you how it fits I've got all the screws in the hinges so I know that the hinges now are fully seated and that's the only time I can really check this meeting line between the two styles and I've left this at just about a millimeter simply because if this shrinks I want the gap to be minimized if I took it down to say a millimeter or a millimeter and a half which might be a more acceptable size I would I would be disappointed because there might I would have a bigger gap in the door so each of these doors could shrink a millimeter each and I would end up with a two and a half millimeter gap that's too much for me so I'm leaving mine like this I'm going to leave it for a week and put it into my shop wherever it's going and leave it there to acclimate and see what happens with the doors if I need to I can go back in and I can ease the doors now I think now we've got the two doors together you can see what this leading edge is all about can you see here how when I open the door the longest point if this was a square as the longest point from this inside corner to this external corner would have been longer than the width of the door so it would have caught on the edge of this door the same with this one so we take a leading edge on both doors so that those edges don't catch when it closes like that so we still have a slight gap not much a millimeter that's the hinge there squeaking so that that's perfect that's exactly what I want so now I'm ready to install the hardware I'm going to put a simple brass barrel bolt going on the inside of one of these doors here one at the bottom so I can lock that too and then I'll probably fit a lock on here this is going to be entirely up to you the same with handles and so on I'm going to leave that entirely to you I'm not going to be going beyond this this is the combination of how to hang a door and I hope this helps you when you come to hang any kind of door that's recessed like this

Channel: Paul Sellers

Views: 73,272

Rating: 4.9745831 out of 5

Keywords: Woodworking, Hand Tools, Door Fitting, Paul Sellers, Cabinet Books, Door Making, Door Hanging

Id: HXU_UJnxAHI

Length: 45min 40sec (2740 seconds)

Published: Mon Oct 31 2016