How to Make a Sharpening Plate Holder | Paul Sellers

you may have seen me using my diamond plate holder it's got three diamond plates and it's what I used to sharpen my tools it's a wonderful piece of equipment I've never found anything that came better so it holds my three diamond plates in the surface just like this one this is one I made with on a table saw so you can still see the grooves in there it works fine but I want to show you how you make one completely by hand just using hand tools very quick easy to do and it's going to change your life if you use one of these like I do I've cut this square it's 11 and a half by nine and a half dead on my plates are three inches by eight inches dead on hopefully I'm going to set my square to three quarters of an inch from the end of the square to this point here and I'm going to just use this to put a visual on to the surface of the wood like this this will show me the overall surface area the parallel at the edge of the board like this that's the exact position hopefully I want this so I've got course oh yeah coarse medium and fine these are going to be set into the surface so I'm going to line these up on those lines that I put on like that I'm going to do the outside faces the outside ones first and this one I just equidistance right in the middle which actually should be 1 inch so if I put this one up to here check this here yeah it's exactly half an inch between the stones between the two outside stones so I can check myself here and here you want these dead-on if you can get it like that line them up now these may not be dead square they come from the manufacturer the surface is actually very good but sometimes they're slightly out of square so I recommend that you do each one individually and nudge them to get them as close to equidistance as you can so here now I'm going with my knife I just sharpened my knife as well oops went off the line a little bit there I'm going through that first level of veneer this one too I can see that this is not quite on the line on the top which means the blade is probably just slightly out of square because I'm dead on this line down here so cut that surface fiber that means this should drop right into the recess like this and they obviously go in the sequence coarse medium or coarse and fine in this case I think I've got coarse fine and then I've got super fine light paths with this one make sure it's on course after that you can go as heavy as you like and it probably won't jump out it's better if these are accurately fitted because that will stop them from slopping around in the recess okay next stage just take a wide chisel I've got a wider one here but you can just use a one inch chisel down into this face here quick and into this one this gets me through that first level and this one too because it's plywood you probably won't have any problems. I can feel a little resistance there and you do all of them and you may well I'm just gonna do one for time but you can do all three at the same time just like this I would suggest being very careful not to chisel into this knife wall because you could be chiseling under the depth that you've cut and and then it can because it's plywood is striated so you'd have these different levels so here now set this to a just barely skimming off some surface fibers see I'm not through this at the first level so I'm going to turn it until I am and you'll see a change in color when I do it I can see I'm changing color I'm gonna go a bit deeper there you can see the very definitive so I've gone through the level this is the glue layer here very carefully to just nudge it up to the outside perimeter knife wall like that we work down a level this will take me down pretty close to the depth of cut that I made with the knife here you have to be careful don't go under the rim of the wall I've made these on table saws as I pointed out earlier but nothing beats this this is so much nicer actually combined the table saw with the router just like this not a power router and I was less than happy with the way it felt when I was making it when you have 10 to make maybe that's a better way just like in laying not much different really that's level one now I'm going back with my knife I've left this wall here I wasn't sure if I had gone deep enough with this one so I'm in the knife war no it's parting away easily nice steady hand firm pressure so we shot there didn't I. it makes no difference these get very black in daily use so gonna be up to you whether it matters I want to seal this I'm gonna seal mine I usually do but they get very very dirty and the ceiling actually stops the water from going into the grain as well so two coats of Danish Oil something like that shellac will work fine next level half a turn maybe it's a little heavy still too heavy this is really not really too heavy it's more a change of direction of grain because I've gone through the early level that I just did which was with the grains and this is purely cross grain cutting so you can see it there it's actually cutting across the grain so it's not not too deep. Different level. Keep it clean, that was what was hit hanging me up there there was a knot in the next layer this was lifting me up so I get down to that just nudge into that knife wall there, rock your plane iron into the cut line so this is coming crisply here I'm thinking we're doing fine how deep am I I'm probably a sixteenth so I think I'm half way to depth now I'm gonna get this wall here this one gently you don't want to lose that outside rim to a split but you can always glue it if he if you do go too hard you can just glue it back in place not the goal but it works fine perfect now I want to check my depth see where I am my 1/16 so again back with your knife and you can take this out and chop it with the chisel if you prefer like there I've got a knot I'm not sure how well the knife is doing with that it seems to have done fine so far love it love it love it this will last your lifetime - depends on how long your life is but my expectation is long okay so turn half a turn I'm gonna go down a little bit deeper I've not gone through this surface but I think this actually will take me to depth there again I can see the changing color that's the glue line just above the glue line doesn't have to be ultra smooth it's never that blade into the into the rim like this don't rum it in because that will split the level if you're not careful.I love it. this is when it gets hard when you've got a full width here and it's not yielding just find that weak spot that path of least resistance and this will cutter into it which is what I'm doing that worked fine so I changed direction there because I could feel resistance and that's my next level how deep am i not really sure one more level when you come to do the other three if you do them separately like this I would suggest you do them all at the same level as you go if you do then set the final level by dropping the plane in here setting it to depth and then you can do the final pass on the others and get them exactly the same depth because you want these at the same height when they're finished beautiful this feels super smooth on the bottom I don't always get that when I'm working with plywood nice very nice oh and I focus on the others now this is 3/4 inch plywood as well and a little bit in this corner and hopefully that will take my stone just like that spot-on so I'm gonna do the other two next one last step really in the joinery of the cutting elements of this is to put the stop on the underside so that you can lock it in the vise set the end of you gauge to the stock of the square half an inch and then pull a line across with the knife gently carefully following the rim that way it's going to be set parallel to the edge so I've gone through that first level and now I can feel I'm in the second level now I can go freehand and I'm just going to take my piece of wood that I'm actually using for the stop just work this across the grain like this you just pull it all through like that we have to go down on this side the same way we did but we're gonna do it a little bit differently what depth we go down I'm gonna go down quarter of an inch and my piece of wood is three quarters by half inch and it's the full width of my piece this is where it's going to go so I'm just getting myself a start here like we did before that gives the recess that kind of extra it just defines the the knife wall more clearly same this way switch to a chisel hammer if it's easier but be careful not to go into the wall just splitting off the surface fibers it's so easy to go underneath and then split this fragile rim off like that no I didn't now I'm gonna go with a small tenon saw dovetail saw here drop it into the groove and with the grain now but I have to have a depth to go to so I'm just going to go quarter of an inch like that and quarter of an inch there you can measure it if you want to so I don't go too deeply so you can hear the layers how it changes then I'm gonna pop it with a narrow chisel yeah bevel down go into the second layer or whatever layer you've cleared just peel that out bevel d own into the layer and just adjust the bevel until it's catching the right depth go with your router and set it to a depth where skimming off the surface fibers there and then twist it turn another quarter turn instead of going on the out-cut coming from the edge another turn so now I'm in a completely different strata there clean up the corners and now I'm gonna go knife first turn this quarter turn into the cut let's make sure you get the corner because they'll hold it off, quite thick these strata one more i think that's me through but I'm on a glue layer which is that brown layer and I want to go beyond that because the glue doesn't glue stick too well to an existing an existing glue lava so I'm gonna go a little bit deeper till I get to solid grain and then that piece that I glue in there will be secured now doesn't matter if the piece you cut is loose because you're going to glue it into the bottom the wiggle of glue from one end to the other like this just press it in it'll come up the side so the glue will come up see it coming up there the glue is going to come up the sides like that and then you just clamp it in the vise for half an hour like this just leave that to dry make sure there's no slippage so now all we need to do is come back silicon the plates into the recesses and that's the job completed I've applied a couple of coats of finish to this because I think it's much better to apply some finish it stops water from being or liquid from being absorbed into the plate holder also keeps them clean and I'm ready to put my plates in and I've just got silicon here you can use silicon you can use an adhesive if you want to but you don't need very much in here I'm putting this thin Wiggly curl and that's all I need no more than that and I like to be able to pop these out in three months time and reseat them but all this does is help to seat the place cushion them in a way I'm going to drop them in place and then I'm going to put them into the vise this way just to make sure that they are seated into the recess once they're seated they will pop out later because it doesn't really glue them in place so much now they're all nice and level I'm looking at the edge I can see they're nice and even that's it that is my finished place there you have it that's all I do this is perfect now lock them in the vise cinch it tight get you sharpening Wow a wonderful piece of equipment

Channel: Paul Sellers

Views: 176,960

Rating: 4.9349074 out of 5

Keywords: woodworking, hand tools, paul sellers, sharpening, diamond plates, diamond sharpening, dmt, ezelap

Id: dVsfkVR9VmI

Length: 30min 16sec (1816 seconds)

Published: Mon Sep 18 2017